Old School Model Works GHOST Instructions for use

CONSTRUCTION MANUAL
www.oldschoolmodels.com
Using the Manual
Be sure to read each step thoroughly before you start
the step. Test-fit the parts together to make sure they
fit properly. If necessary trim to fit.
Beside each step you will notice a check box (or two).
These are so you can keep track of your progress
while building your kit. For steps that have two boxes,
as in the construction of the left and right wing halves,
these steps must be performed two times.
• Your Old School Model Works aircraft should not be
considered a toy, but rather a sophisticated, working
model that functions very much like a full-size airplane.
Because of its performance capabilities, this model, if not
assembled and operated correctly, could possibly cause
injury to yourself or spectators, and damage to property.
• You must assemble this model according to the
instructions. Do not alter or modify this model, as doing
so may result in an unsafe or un-flyable model. In a few
cases the instructions may differ slightly from the photos.
In those instances the written instructions should be
considered as correct.
• You must take time to build straight, true and strong.
• You must use a R/C radio system that is in first-
class condition, a correctly sized power system and
components (electronics, batteries, wheels, etc.)
throughout the building process.
• You must correctly install all R/C and other components
so that the model operates correctly on the ground
and in the air. (Installation shown in the manual is a
suggestion. You may have to adjust the mounting steps
to accommodate the size of your radio equipment.)
• You must check the operation of the model before every
flight to insure that all equipment is operating and that
the model has remained structurally sound. Be sure to
check clevises or other connectors often and replace
them if they show any signs of wear or fatigue.
• If you are not an experienced pilot or have not flown this
type of model before, we recommend that you get the
assistance of an experienced pilot in your R/C club for
your first flights. If you’re not a member of a club, your
local hobby shop has information about clubs in your
area whose membership includes experienced pilots.
• While this kit has been flight tested to exceed normal
use, if this model will be used for extremely high stress
flying, such as racing, or if a power system larger than
one in the recommended range is used, the modeler is
responsible for taking steps to reinforce the high stress
points and/or substituting hardware more suitable for the
increased stress.
Remember: Take your time and follow
the instructions to end up with a well-
built model that is straight and true.
Specifications:
Wingspan: 62 in.
Wing Area: 675 sq in.
Airframe Length: 49.5 in.
Weight: 4.5 - 6 lb.

Page 2 www.oldschoolmodels.com Construction Manual
Page 2 www.oldschoolmodels.com Construction Manual
WARNING
READ THROUGH THIS MANUAL
BEFORE STARTING CONSTRUCTION.
IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT WARNINGS
AND INSTRUCTIONS CONCERNING
THE CONSTRUCTION AND USE OF THIS
MODEL.
A Radio-Controlled aircraft is not a toy!
If misused, it can cause serious bodily harm
and damage to property. Fly only in open
areas, preferably at AMA (Academy of Model
Aeronautics) approved flying sites, following all
instructions included with your radio, powerplant,
electronics and batteries.
• Inspect your model before every flight to ensure it is airworthy.
• Be aware of any other radio frequency user who may present an
interference problem.
• Always be courteous and respectful of other users in your
selected flight area.
• Choose an area clear of obstacles and large enough to safely
accommodate your flying activity.
• Make sure this area is clear of friends and spectators prior to
launching your aircraft.
• Be aware of other activities in the vicinity of your flight path that
could cause potential conflict.
• Carefully plan your flight path prior to launch.
• Abide by any and all established AMA National Model Aircraft
Safety Codes.
IMPORTANT!!! Two of the most important things you can
do to preserve the radio controlled aircraft hobby are to avoid flying
near full-scale aircraft and avoid flying near or over groups of people.
INCLUDED ITEMS
Wood parts included in this kit:
• 1 LP1 - laser cut 1/8” x 5” x 24” lite ply
• 1 LP2 - laser cut 1/8” x 5” x 24” lite ply
• 1 LP3 - laser cut 1/8” x 2” x 24” lite ply
• 1 LP4 - laser cut 1/8” x 5” x 24” lite ply
• 1 LP5 - laser cut 1/8” x 5” x 24” lite ply
• 1 LP6 - laser cut 1/8” x 2” x 24” lite ply
• 1 LP7 - 1 laser cut/8” x 5” x 24” lite ply
• 1 LP8 - laser cut 1/8” x 2.5” x 12” lite ply
• 1 LP9 - laser cut 1/16” x 2.5” x 5” lite ply
• 3 DH1 - laser cut dihedral braces 1/8” ply
• 1 BP1 - laser cut 1/8” x 4” x 12” balsa
• 1 BP2 - laser cut 1/8” x 4” x 12” balsa
• 2 BP3 - laser cut 3/32” x 4” x 12” balsa
• 2 BP4 - laser cut 3/32” x 4” x 12” balsa
• 2 BP5 - laser cut 3/32” x 4” x 12” balsa
• 2 BP6 - laser cut 3/32” x 4” x 12” balsa
• 2 BP7 - laser cut 3/32” x 4” x 24” balsa
• 2 BP8 - laser cut 3/32” x 4” x 24” balsa
• 2 BP9 - laser cut 3/32” x 4” x 24” balsa
• 1 BP10 - laser cut 3/32” x 4” x 24” balsa
• 2 BP11 - laser cut 1/16” x 4” x 24” balsa
• 2 BP12 - laser cut 1/16” x 4” x 12” balsa
• 2 BP13 - laser cut 1/16” x 4” x 12” balsa
• 2 BP14 - laser cut 1/16” x 4” x 24” balsa
• 2 BP15 - laser cut 1/16” x 4” x 24” balsa
• 2 BP16 - laser cut 1/16” x 4” x 12” balsa
• 2 BP17 - laser cut 1/16” x 4” x 24” balsa
• 1 BP18 - laser cut 1/4” x 3” x 12” balsa
• 1 BP19 - laser cut 3/16” x 3” x 12” balsa
• 2 1/16” x 4” x 36” balsa sheets
• 4 3/32” x 4” x 12” balsa sheets
• 2 1/2” x 1/2” x 36” balsa strips
• 2 5/16” x 5/16” x 36” balsa strips
• 3 1/4” x 1/4” x 36” balsa strips
• 4 3/16” x 3/16” x 36” balsa strips
• 4 3/16” x 3/8” x 36” basswood strips
• 2 5/16” x 1-1/4” x 36” shaped balsa strips
Hardware parts included in this kit:
• 4 1/4" x 1/8" magnets
• 10 2-56 x 1/2” machine screws
• 18 2-56 x 3/4” self tapping screws
• 4 3/16" wheel collars
• 4 wheel collars set screws
• 6 control horns
• 2 plastic landing gear straps
• 2 1/4-20 x 2” wing bolts
• 4 2-56 x 5/16" Phillips screws
• 4 #2 x 3/4" Phillips screws
• 2 4-40 x 1" socket head cap screws
• 1 1/4” x 4” dowel
Other items included in this kit:
• 3 - Rolled plans (fuselage and 2 wing)
• 1 - Construction Manual
ITEMS NEEDED
Hardware needed (not included in the kit)
For some of these items there is more than one option which will
require a bit of decision making ahead of time. There isn’t a right or
a wrong choice, so choose the items that work best for you.
We strongly recommended supporting your local hobby shop.
• Powerplant: 450+ watt electric, 3-4s lipo, 60+ amp ESC
(or .35-.46 2-stroke glow engine)
• Propeller
• Engine/Motor mount and mounting hardware
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including lead, which
is known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other
reproductive harm. For more information go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.

Construction Manual www.oldschoolmodels.com Page 3
Construction Manual www.oldschoolmodels.com Page 3
• 6-8 ounce fuel tank and fuel tubing (if glow)
• Receiver - (4 channel minimum)
• Servos
If 4 channel, 4 servos (electric), 5 servos (glow)
If 5 channel, 6 servos (electric), 7 servos (glow)
We used standard servos all around.
• 2 servo extensions for aileron servos (8-12")
• 2 “Y” servo harnesses (one for ailerons, and one for flaps)
• Pushrods - two 6” for ailerons, two 6" for flaps, two 28" for
elevator and rudder, one 10” for throttle (if glow)
• Clevises for the pushrods.
• Wheels: two 3” for mains
(Du-Bro Chromies look great - hint, hint).
• Tailwheel assembly
• Covering: If you're using simple color scheme, two rolls of iron-
on covering will be enough. You will need more if applying a
more complicated livery.
Additional Required Building Tools and Adhesives
• Drill & assorted drill bits
• Hobby knife and #10 blades
• Sandpaper: coarse (80 or 100 grit) & medium (150-200 grit)
• Pencil or pen
• Ruler
• T-Pins
• Waxed paper
• Building board
• 2-part epoxy (6 or 15 minute), brushes and mixing sticks
• Wood adhesives of your choice. We use medium viscosity CA
(cyanoacrylate) , but aliphatic resin and/or carpenter’s glues (used
correctly) will work just as well and give longer working time.
• Thin CA for attaching the included hinges
We advise the following:
Closely inspect the supplied laser cut parts for damage. If you
find any damaged or missing parts, contact us (not your dealer)
immediately.
When removing the laser cut parts from their sheets, you’ll notice
the parts are held in place by several small “tabs”. These tabs
are uncut pieces of wood and can sometimes make it difficult to
remove a part. Rather than breaking and/or splintering the wood
by forcing out the part, we recommend removing any laser cut
parts from their sheets by using a hobby knife with a #10 blade.
A quick cut of the tab will allow the piece to be removed with no
damage. Sand any tab remainders flush with the part so there will
be no problem aligning them later.
It’s best to not remove parts from their sheets until they are needed.
Refer to Appendix A of this manual as a reference to what all the
laser cut parts look like and are called.
You’ll notice a check box next to each step. Check these off as
you go along so you don’t miss a step. Note that some steps (in
building the wing) have two boxes - this means that the step will be
done twice - once for each wing half.
There could be a step or two which leaves you a bit puzzled. If this
happens, step back and study the photo(s) for that step - both in
this manual and online.
All photos shown in this manual are of different GHOST prototypes.
Several pieces may have changed slightly with improvements
we’ve made so parts may look a little different in some steps.
Online Supplementary Photos
We realize that the smaller black-and-
white photos in this manual might not
show some of the steps as clearly as you
might want. So we’ve anticipated this
and made these photos available on our
website. You can either scan the QR code
or type this address into your browser:
www.oldschoolmodels.com/mpics/GHOST/
IF YOU READ NOTHING ELSE
IN THIS MANUAL, PLEASE
READ THESE FOUR POINTS.
#1 - PLYWOOD HAS SLIGHT BOWS IN IT 95% OF THE TIME.
We don't like it, but that's the way plywood is. Because of
this, we engineered the GHOST to eliminate these warps
whenever possible - we'll make recommendations on how to
overcome them as we go along.
2 - BALSA HAS SLIGHT BOWS IN IT 60% OF THE TIME.
We don't like it, but that's the way balsa is. We'll make
recommendations on how to overcome them as we go along.
3 - It is very important that you assemble the GHOST in
the order described. Skipping forward in the steps could
leave you without the proper lengths of wood to finish
the kit. We’ve included enough wood to easily complete
this kit, but you must take care to properly measure and
not waste wood when cutting.
4
- Save ALL of the scrap wood as you build - the ends of
sticks, the left over sheets, etc. You will use some of this
in assembly, and can use other parts if you need repairs.
If this is your fi rst build, congratulations!
What you're about to do is build a flyable airplane - yup, that's a
pretty cool thing. All of the techniques that you'll learn here can
easily be used for anything else you'll build down the road.
Please read through each step before you start, so you can
understand what's needed to be done for that step. We'll try to
explain everything along the way, but there might be times you
run into something you can't wrap your head around. Help can
be found at your local r/c club, or even on the interwebs - lots of
forums and videos on building are available to you.
And remember, building is not a race. You are the craftsman and if
you take your time, take the time to understand, and make the effort
to do good work, it will certainly show when the airframe is built.

Page 4 www.oldschoolmodels.com Construction Manual
Page 4 www.oldschoolmodels.com Construction Manual
OSMW BASIC AIRCRAFT TERMINOLOGY
Aileron
Aileron
Main Gear
Hatch
Firewall
Propeller
Spinner
Horizontal
Stabilizer Elevator
Elevator
Vertical Fin
Rudder
Tailwheel
3D FLYING (HOVERING) - Something that
should definitely NOT be done (or attempted)
with OSMW aircraft. Our designs are meant to fly
like airplanes, not hovering like a helicopter.
AIRFOIL - the cross-section shape of a wing.
Airfoils can be flat-bottomed (like the GHOST), or
other shapes, depending on the style of airplane
and what it needs to do.
AILERONS - the moving section of the trailing
edge (TE) of the wing. Ailerons come in pairs, (left
and right) and always work in opposite directions
to each other (one up, one down). When used,
they cause the airplane to roll to the left or right.
C/A - cyanoacrylate glue that bonds quickly
compared to woodworking glues. If using C/A with
the GHOST, we recommend medium viscosity for
the majority of the build, then for the hinges.
CENTER OF GRAVITY (CG) - the airplane's
point of fore-aft balance, or the point at which all
gravitational forces act on the plane.
CLEVIS - a plastic or metal clip that is used on the
end of pushrods, so the pushrod can be attached
to control horns and servo horns.
CONTROL HORN - a plastic component that is
securely attached to a control surface, onto which
the servo linkage is connected to.
CONTROL SURFACE - any moving part of flying
surface: rudder, elevator, ailerons and/or flaps.
DIHEDRAL - the upward 'V' angle of the wings
when viewed from the front. An airplane with
dihedral (like the GHOST) is more stable in the air
than one without.
DOWN THRUST - designed into the GHOST, it
angles the firewall and powerplant downward to
help counteract the natural lift of the flat-bottom
airfoil when at higher speeds..
ELEVATOR - the moving section at the rear of
the horizontal stabilizer, that controls the pitch
attitude of the airplane.
FIN (VERTICAL STABILIZER) - the vertical surface
at the rear of the airplane used to stabilize the
plane in flight.
FLAPS - moving sections of the trailing edge of
the wing, usually found between the ailerons and
fuselage. Flaps create more lift at slower flying
speeds and also to slow the plane on landing
approach.
FUSELAGE - the main body of an airplane,
excluding wings, tail and everything else.
HORIZONTAL STABILIZER (TAILPLANE) - the
horizontal surface at the back of the fuselage, to
which the elevators are attached.
LANDING GEAR (MAIN GEAR) - the wires and
wheels on the forward part of the fuselage.
LEADING EDGE - (L.E.) - the front edge of the
wing, tailplane or rudder.
PILOT ERROR - any mistake, particularly one that
ends in a crash, made by the pilot for whatever
reason. Pilot error is rarely never admitted to
by the pilot in question. Instead, the incident is
usually blamed on radio failure, interference,
unexplained gusts of wind, extra fast-growing
trees, or gravity having some fun and suddenly
increasing its strength.
Don't be this type of pilot - admit it when there's
pilot failure - it happens to all of us.
PORT - the left side of anything.
PUSHROD - a piece of metal/ plastic rod (or
thread/cable) that connects a servo arm to its
control surface or function. Clevises are commonly
used at the ends of the linkages, to clip to the
servo/control horns.
RECEIVER - a component of the radio control
gear that lives inside the aircraft and picks up the
radio signals being emitted by the transmitter,
then sends signals out to attached servos.
RIGHT THRUST - designed into the GHOST, it
angles the firewall and powerplant to the right to
help counteract the natural pull to the left when at
higher speeds..
RUDDER
- the moving section on the back part
of the fin. Used to control the airplane's yaw.
SERVO - the component of the radio control gear
that converts the radio signal into movement.
SERVO ARM - a plastic or metal piece fixed to the
servo's output shaft, onto which a pushrod (and/or
clevis) connects.
STARBOARD - the right side of anything.
TAILDRAGGER - an airplane that has 2 main
wheels and a small tail wheel - like the GHOST.
Taildraggers require you to use the rudder when
on the ground, a bit more than tricycle gear
designs.
TRAILING EDGE (T.E.) - the rear edge of the
wing, tailplane or rudder.
WHEEL COLLAR - a small, donut-shaped metal
piece that slips on over the landing gear wire and
holds the wheel in place - using a small set screw.
WING - come on, seriously??
WINGSPAN - the overall length of the wing, from
tip to tip.
BASIC AIRCRAFT PARTS

Construction Manual www.oldschoolmodels.com Page 5
Construction Manual www.oldschoolmodels.com Page 5
Let’s begin construction by building the
vertical fin of your GHOST.
■ Prepare your work area
Position the vertical fin plan over
your flat building surface and tape
it into position. Tear off a length of
waxed paper long enough to cover
that portion of the plan and tape it
over the plan.
■ Step 1 - Vertical Fin Assembly (VF1, VF2)
Locate VF1 and VF2 from BP2. Pin
VF1 in place on the plans. Then apply
a small amount of glue in the notch of
VF2, where it will attach to VF1. Pin VF2
in place as shown here, making sure it's
nicely aligned and flat on the building
board.
■ Step 2 - Vertical Fin Assembly (VF3)
Locate VF3 from BP2. Apply a small
amount of glue on each end, where it fits
into both VF1 and VF2. Pin VF3 in place as
shown here, making sure it's nicely aligned
and flat on the building board.
■ Step 3 - Vertical Fin Assembly (VF4, VF5)
Locate VF4 and VF5 from BP2. Apply a
small amount of glue on each end of VF4,
where it fits into both VF2 and VF3. Pin
VF3 in place as shown here, making sure
it's nicely aligned and flat on the building
board. Then do the same for VF5.
■ Step 4 - Vertical Fin Assembly (mark the glue line)
Grab a pencil and lightly draw a line onto
VF1, VF4 and VF5 that corresponds with
the sheeting joint line you see on the plans.
This will make it easier to apply the right
amount of glue in the next step.
After you mark this, remove any pins you
have holding these parts in place, but don't
lift off the assembly. There should be enough glue in place to hold
it in position.
■ Step 5 - Vertical Fin Assembly (VF7)
Locate one VF7 from BP17. Lightly sand
the top face of this assembly to remove
any excess glue so you'll have a smooth
surface. Now apply glue to the pieces
which are to the left of the line you drew.
Then place VF7 on top of the fin framing, making sure it is perfectly
aligned, and flat along it's entire length. Use a weight to hold it in
position until the glue cures.
■ Step 6 - Vertical Fin Assembly (VF8)
Locate one VF8 from BP17. Apply glue to
the rest of the exposed fin framing, and to
the edge of VF7 that will touch VF8. Place
VF8 on top of the fin framing, making sure it is perfectly aligned,
and flat along it's entire length. Use a weight to hold it in position
until the glue cures.
■ Step 7 - Vertical Fin Assembly (VF7, VF8)
Carefully remove the fin assembly from the
waxed paper. Flip it over and lightly sand
the framing's surface.
Locate the other VF7 and VF8 from BP17.
One at a time, glue these in place, just as
you did in the previous steps.
That completes the vertical fin assembly. Set it aside and remove
the fin plans from your building board.
■ Step 8 - Horizontal Stab Assembly (HS2)
Tape the horizontal stab plan over
your building surface and cover it
with waxed paper.
Locate HS2 from BP1 and pin it in
position. You might want to grab
a straight edge (we use a metal
yardstick) and place it along the bottom edge of HS2 to make sure
it's perfectly straight when pinned down.
■ Step 9 - Horizontal Stab Assembly (HS1B)
Locate HS1B from BP1. Apply glue to the
portion that fits into HS2's center notch, then
pin it position as shown here.
■ Step 10 - Horizontal Stab Assembly (HS1A)
Locate HS1A from BP1. This is glued across
the top edge of HS1B, making sure not to get
any glue in the center of the HS1B cutout. Pin
this in position while the glue cures.
■ Step 11 - Horizontal Stab Assembly (HS4)
Locate both HS4s from BP1. These are glued
to each end of HS2 to form the port and
starboard stab tips. Apply glue where each
HS4 contacts HS2, then pin them in position.
■ Step 12 - Horizontal Stab Assembly (HS3)
Locate both HS3s from BP1 and BP2.
These are glued in place to form the port
and starboard leading edges of the stab.
Apply glue where each HS3 contacts
HS1A and HS4, then pin them in position.
■ Step 13 - Horizontal Stab Assembly (HS5, HS6, HS7)
Locate both HS5s, both HS6s and both HS7s from BP1. These are
glued between the leading and trailing
edges. Start with the HS5s, applying
glue where they contact HS3 and HS2.
Push them firmly in place, making sure
they are flat. Then do the same for the
HS6s and then the HS7s.

Page 6 www.oldschoolmodels.com Construction Manual
Page 6 www.oldschoolmodels.com Construction Manual
■ Step 14 - Horizontal Stab Assembly (HS8)
Locate the eight HS8s from BP1. These
are all the same and are glued in
between the internal bracing. Starting
on the port end, apply glue to where
the HS8 will contact HS4 and HS7, then
glue it in place, nice and flat. Work your
way across the stab, doing the same thing for each HS8 until you
reach the starboard tip.
■ Step 15 - Horizontal Stab Assembly (sanding)
You should now hopefully have
a stab assembly that looks
remarkably close what's shown
here.
Now, remove any pins
you have holding the stab
assembly in place, but don't lift
off the assembly. There should
be enough glue in place to hold it in position. Lightly sand the top
face to remove any excess glue so you'll have a smooth surface.
■ Step 16 - Horizontal Stab Assembly (HS10)
Locate HS10 from BP14. This
is glued to the back half of the
assembly. Apply glue to the
back half only, then carefully
attach HS10 so it's perfectly
aligned and flat along it's entire
length. Again, weights might be
a good thing to hold in place while the glue cures.
■ Step 17 - Horizontal Stab Assembly (HS9)
Locate two HS9 from BP15
and BP16. These are glued to
the front half of stab, one on
each side.
Using the same techniques
you've just used, attach one
HS9 to the port half, and one
to the starboard half. Again, flat and smooth is what we're looking
for here.
■ Step 18 - Horizontal Stab Assembly (HS9, HS10)
Carefully remove the stab assembly from the waxed paper. Flip it
over and lightly sand the stab's framing surfaces.
Locate the remaining HS10 from BP14, and the HS9s from BP15
and BP16. Glue these in place, just as you did for the other side.
■ Step 19 - Horizontal Stab Assembly (rear notch)
You'll notice that the stab's sheeting has
a notch cut into the trailing edge. Use a
hobby knife and/or a saw) to remove the
internal framing filling up this notch.
For a few reasons I won't go into here, this is
not something that can easily be engineered
here at OSMW World-Wide Headquarters.
It's just easier to remove this portion of wood after
the stab is assembled.
Once finished, set the completed stab aside.
■ Step 20 - Elevator Assembly (E1, E2)
Locate both E1s from BP2 and two E2s from BP17.
Position the E1s so they are mirror
images of each other. Then working
with one at a time, apply glue and
attach one E2 to each E1, making sure
they're perfectly aligned. This should
leave you with two mirror image
elevator halves, as shown here.
■ Step 21 - Elevator Assembly (joiner)
Locate the pre-bent elevator joiner from the
hardware bag. This is used to join the two
elevator halves together as shown here.
Use a file, or some sandpaper to rough/scuff
up it's surface, where it will fit into the
elevator halves.
Because the pre-bent joiners are hand-cut
and hand-bent, you might need to adjust
the bends slightly to guarantee they are both at 90° and the joiner
is perfectly flat. (Two pairs of pliers, one in each hand, should give
you the leverage needed to make any bends.)
■ Step 22 - Elevator Assembly (join elevator halves)
Grab that trusty straight edge
you used a few steps back.
Pin the port elevator half in
place, so that the pre-cut notch
in E1 is visible.
Now, place the other elevator
half in position, but don't pin it
down just yet. Instead, push the
joiner in the grooves of both halves.
Place your straight edge along the leading edge of the halves, as
shown here. Then pin the starboard half in place.
(The reason for this is because of the hand-cut nature of the joiner
can make it a little longer or shorter). No worries as sanding later
on will fix all of this.
Now mix up a little epoxy that you'll use to glue the joiner in place.
Remove the joiner, apply the glue, then press the joiner back in
place. Clean up any excess epoxy with some denatured alcohol.
■ Step 23 - Elevator Assembly (E2)
While the epoxy is curing, locate
the remaining E2s from BP17 and
glue them on to the top of the E1s.
Again, make sure everything is
aligned and flat along their lengths.
Once all the glue has cured, remove
the completed elevator assembly
from the board and set it aside.
This completes assembly of the tail surfaces.
See, this building stuff isn't as difficult as you though, eh?
You've built all the tail surfaces and only needed a few pins,
a file, a straight edge and some sandpaper. Not bad.
Time to move on. The wing halves are built next, so clear your
board of all everything and let's make a great looking wing.

Construction Manual www.oldschoolmodels.com Page 7
Construction Manual www.oldschoolmodels.com Page 7
■ Alignment triangle
Before we start on the wing construction,
there's a couple of tools that are pre-cut
into this kit.
One is a 90° triangle in LP1. It can be
used to vertically align any of the parts in
the construction of your GHOST. LP1 also
includes a foot piece that can be used with
the triangle to hold it vertically (hands-free).
■ Step 24 - Wing Assembly (prepare your work area)
Position the port wing plan over your
flat building surface and tape it in
position. Tear off a length of waxed
paper long enough to cover that
portion of the plan and tape that over
the plan.
■ ■ Step 25 - Wing Assembly (bottom spar)
Locate one of the 3/16" x 3/8" x 36"
basswood sticks. This is used as the
lower wing spar. Position it on the plans
so it extends roughly a 1/4" past the tip,
as shown here. Now move to the other
end and mark the stick about 1/4" past
the innermost (root) rib - R1.
Cut this stick to length.
Then it needs to be attached in place over the plans. We use a few
drops of medium C/A to tack-glue this piece to the waxed paper
to hold it in place, instead of t-pins. Use your long straight-edge
to make sure it is aligned properly and is straight over it’s entire
length. The alignment of this spar is critical as the rest of the wing
panel is based off this single piece.
■ ■ Step 26 - Wing Assembly (LE1, LE2)
Locate one LE1 and one LE2
from BP11. These two pieces
will become the lower portion
of the leading edge.
Pin LE1 in place first, then
apply glue where LE2 and LE1
contact each other - around that
modified "scarf" joint.
Pin LE2 in place, using your
straightedge to guarantee the straightest of straightnessship.
■ ■ Step 27 - Wing Assembly (TE1, TE2)
Locate one TE1 from BP11 and TE2
from BP15. These two pieces will
become the lower portion of the
trailing edge.
Pin TE1 in place first, then apply glue
where TE2 and TE1 contact each
other - around that modified "scarf"
joint.
Pin TE2 in place, using your
straightedge to again guarantee the most straightest of straightness
that has ever been straight.
■ ■ Step 28 - Wing Assembly (T1, T2, T3, T4)
Locate T1 from BP10 as well as T2, T3
and T4 from LP4.
Place T1 flat on your building surface,
in the same orientation as shown on the
plans, then you'll glue T2, T3 and T4 into
T1. Make sure each piece is perfectly
vertical - remember that 90° triangle?
■ ■ Step 29 - Wing Assembly (R7)
Locate one R7 from BP6. It is
glued to the tip assembly you just
made. Test fit it first, making sure
you know how all the tabs in each
of the T1-4 pieces fit.
When you're ready, remove R7,
apply glue in the correct spots
and attach R7 in place.
■ ■ Step 30 - Wing Assembly (tip assembly)
The tip assembly is now glued in
place to the spar, as well as the
leading and trailing edges. You'll
note that there are notches in the
leading and trailing edges which
help position this rib, as well as the
rest of them (as you'll find out).
This tip assembly will also rest on
the spar, holding it 90° without the use of tools - yup, another great
innovation from the OSMW Design Squadron Think-Tank.
Anyway, once you see how it's attached, apply glue to the spots
where the tip assembly contacts the other parts, then glue it in
place.
■ ■ Step 31 - Wing Assembly (webs)
Enter the webs, W3 shear-webs that is.
You'll have a bunch of these on BP11,
BP14 and BP15. You'll use one of these
along with a rib over the next few steps.
These webs add massive strength to a
wing, with very little weight.
These webs do five things at the same time.
1. They give you proper rib spacing with tabs that lock into the
rib's pre-cut slots (our exclusive WEB-LOCK construction).
2. They hold each rib perfectly vertical without needing tools.
3. The cutout GHOST face lets you easily know which way is
up - an upright face is the correct way.
4. The eye cutouts allow airflow between the different
chambers of the wing. This is very helpful in keeping
covering from bubbling up when you're covering later on,
and when the GHOST is at the field in the boiling sun.
5. They just look really cool.
Yup, another bright idea from the warped minds of those who work
at the OSMW Development Center.
■ ■ Step 32 - Wing Assembly (W3, R5)
Locate one R5 from BP4, BP5 or BP6. Also locate one W3 web and
test fit it against R7. It should be placed so the face is upright, it's
tab is pushed fully into the slot in R7, and this web is flush against

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Page 8 www.oldschoolmodels.com Construction Manual
the bottom spar. Now that you
know how these work, remove this
web, apply glue along the edge
touching R7, and along the bottom
of the web where it contacts the
bottom spar. Glue this in position.
Then glue R5 to W3, the spar, the
leading and trailing edges.
■ ■ Step 33 - Wing Assembly (R5, W3)
Locate three more R5s from BP4, BP5
or BP6 and three more W3s
. Working
your way inward, these webs and ribs
are glued in place, one at a time, using
the same techniques you just used on
the first W3 and R5. Make sure all the
tabs, notches and slots are all correctly
positioned while the glue cures.
■ ■ Step 34 - Wing Assembly (R6, W3)
Locate two R6s from BP4 and BP5
and two more W3s
. Still working
your way inward, these webs and
ribs are glued in place, one at a
time, using the same techniques
you just used on the previous ribs
and webs. Make sure all the tabs,
notches and slots are all correctly
positioned while the glue cures.
■ ■ Step 35 - Wing Assembly (SH2)
Locate four SH2s from LP7 and LP8 .
Glue two of them together, one on
top of the other, to form a thicker SH2.
Make sure they are perfectly aligned
when doing this. You'll have two
matching, thicker SH2s when finished.
■ ■ Step 36 - Wing Assembly (SH2)
Now carefully push the two SH2s from the
previous step into the pairs of pre-cut holes
in the R6 ribs. Glue these in position to both
ribs as shown here.
■ ■ Step 37 - Wing Assembly (SH2 trim piece)
Locate one of the 1/4" x 1/4" strips of balsa
sticks - this will be your "small pieces" stick. Cut
four 2-3/8" lengths (the distance between the
ribs) off of this stick.
You'll glue one of these strips in place now,
on the back of the rear SH2 you just installed.
Make sure it is pushed flat against the building board as well.
Set the other pieces aside as you'll use one when making the other
wing half, and the other two for the flap area.
Note: these are not really structural pieces - it simply completes the
back end of the servo areas, and gives your covering something to
stick to - trust us, it will make perfect sense later on in the build.
■ ■ Step 38 - Wing Assembly (R5, W3)
Locate two R5s from BP4 and BP5 and two more W3s . Still working
your way inward, these webs and ribs
are glued in place, one at a time, using
the same techniques you just used on
the previous ribs and webs. Make sure
all the tabs, notches and slots are all
correctly positioned while the glue
cures.
■ ■ Step 39 - Wing Assembly (R4, W3)
Locate one R4 from BP3 or BP4 and
another W3 . Still working your way
inward, this web and rib are glued in
place, using the same techniques you
just used on the previous ribs and webs.
Make sure all the tabs, notches and slots
are all correctly positioned while the
glue cures.
■ ■ Step 40 - Wing Assembly (R3, W3)
Locate one R3 from BP3 and another
W3 . Still working your way inward, this
web and rib are glued in place, using the
same techniques you just used on the
previous ribs and webs. Make sure all the
tabs, notches and slots are all correctly
positioned while the glue cures.
■ ■ Step 41 - Wing Assembly (SH2)
Locate four SH2s from LP7 and LP8 . Glue
two of them together, one on top of the
other, to form a thicker SH2. Make sure they
are perfectly aligned when doing this. You'll
have two matching, thicker SH2s when
finished.
Now carefully push the two SH2s into the
pairs of pre-cut holes in the R3 and R4 ribs. Glue these in position to
both ribs as shown here.
■ ■ Step 42 - Wing Assembly (SH2 trim piece)
Locate one of the 2-3/8" lengths of 1/4" x 1/4" strips of balsa you
cut a few steps back.
Glue this strip in place on the back of the rear SH2 you just installed.
Make sure it is pushed flat against the building board as well.
■ ■ Step 43 - Wing Assembly (R2, W2)
Locate R2 from BP3 and two W2s from
LP5 and LP7. Although thicker, the W2
webs are is glued in place just the same
as the other webs. The only change is
that one is glued on each side of the
lower spar. There are additional slots
in R2 and R3 to accommodate the
extra W2. Then R2 is glued in place, just like the other ribs.
■ ■ Step 44 - Wing Assembly (R1P, W1P)
Locate one R1P from LP7 and both W1Ps from LP5. You might also
want to pop out the 3° dihedral gauges (LP4 & LP5) and it's foot
that's part of LP4 as it can be used to help hold R1P at the correct
angle.
Note the face etched into both W1Ps - there's a winking eye. This

Construction Manual www.oldschoolmodels.com Page 9
Construction Manual www.oldschoolmodels.com Page 9
clean and smooth, as this will form 3 sides of a box where the
dihedral brace will slide in to. The cleaner/smoother it is now, the
easier it will be to slide in the dihedral brace when it’s time.
Take your time and use a gentle touch in this step as you don’t want
to cut/sand/file more than you should, nor do you want to damage
the webs as it could weaken the wing or cause a misalignment.
Note that if you have a Japanese saw, is the perfect tool for this
job. These saws don't have the traditional offset in the teeth, so
they can cut smoothly, up-against edges like the webs.
■ ■ Step 49 - Wing Assembly (top spar)
Locate one DH1 (ply) another length of 3/16" x 3/8" x 36”
basswood strip to use as the upper spar. Measure and trim the spar
to length, again, leaving about a 1/4” extra past the root rib (R1).
It is HIGHLY advised that you take a test run on installing this
upper spar before any glue gets out of the bottle.
First lightly sand the edges of the spar's
bottom face as shown in the drawing to the
right. This will help the spar slide in easier.
Now start pressing it in place, starting at
the tip rib, and working your way towards
the root a little at a time. This will be a tight fit and might require
“wiggling” the spar from side to side to slip in-between the webs.
Be sure to press the spar completely into the slot in each rib,
making it flush with the webs.
Once you get to the open area between the R1 and R3 ribs, you'll
use the single DH1 as a spacer. Note that it is NOT glued in at this
point - just used as a spacer to keep the correct height for the spar.
Gluing this spar in correctly will take a bit of time, so we recommend
against using an instant setting glue. If you are using CA, use a
thicker formulation that gives you a bit of working time.
Once the spar is in place remove the
DH1, then wick thin C/A along the spar
to web joints (front and back) along the
entire length of the spar.
When fitting the upper spar in the area of
the dihedral box, be careful not to drip
excess glue into the box formed between
R1 and R2 ribs.
■ ■ Step 50 - Wing Assembly (leading edge sheeting)
Locate one of the uncut 1/16" x 4" x 36" balsa sheets. Trim this
to length, similar to the way you cut the spar to length. It should
be flush with the outer edge of the tip rib (R7) and extend about a
1/4" past the root (R1) rib.
Now using your trusty straight edge, you need to cut two pieces.
One will be 3" x 36" and the other will be 3/4" x 36".
■ ■ Step 51 - Wing Assembly (leading edge sheeting)
Set the 3/4" width piece aside for
now and let's install the 3" piece
as the leading edge sheeting.
This will glue to the back side of
the leading edge, to the ribs and
then gently curve so it can be
glued to the top of the ribs, webs
and up against the top spar.
To do this, first apply glue along
denotes the side that should be
up-against R1 (it's also the side
with the 3° angle cut into it).
Glue both W1Ps in place, then
glue the R1P in place. You can
use the dihedral gauge to make
sure you are setting in the proper
angle while the glue cures.
Note that there really isn't anything for the front of W1P to glue to
right now. That's ok. We'll address that next.
■ ■ Step 45 - Wing Assembly (leading edge)
Locate one of the 1/2" x 1/2" x 36"
balsa strips as it will be used as part
of the wing's leading edge.
Measure and cut this to length,
making sure it extends about 1/4"
past the tip and root (R1) rib.
If this piece has a bit of a bow to it,
don't worry. You'll position it
so that when it's pushed into the tip and root ribs, the bow
protrudes out from the center (a convex curve). That way, this
bow can be steadily removed bit-by-bit as you push this piece
into the ribs along the length of the wing.
This strip will now be glued in place, gluing it to the LE1/LE2 piece,
as well as completely into every pre-cut notch of each rib you've
just installed. It will just touch the tip of R1 as well - just barely, but
enough to get some glue to hold it securely. ALSO MAKE SURE R1
FLAT AND STRAIGHT ALONG IT'S ENTIRE LENGTH - NO BOW!
■ ■ Step 46 - Wing Assembly (leading edge)
Locate one of the uncut 1/4" x 1/4" x
36" balsa strips to be used as the top
of the leading edge.
This will be glued to the top of the 1/2"
strip you just installed, up against the
front edge of each rib.
■ ■ Step 47 - Wing Assembly (trailing edge)
Locate one of the uncut 5/16" x 5/16"
x 36" balsa strips to be used as the
trailing edge.
This will be glued to the TE1/TE2 piece ,
and to the rear edge of each rib.
■ ■ Step 48 - Wing Assembly (create dihedral box)
Now it’s time to cut-away the center of the R1 and R2 ribs. We've
shown before and after photos to help show what needs to be
done.
Before cutting this area
away, make sure that the
W1P and W2's are securely
glued to the ribs on the
outside of this area - not
the inside. This way things
won't move as you cut.
After cutting, make sure
that the area is completely
Lightly
sand here.
Lightly
sand here.
Before
cutting After cutting

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www.oldschoolmodels.com Construction Manual
■ ■ Step 55 - Wing Assembly (flap anchor)
Remember that 1/4" x 1/4" balsa strip that we're using to cut small
pieces from? Measure and cut two 7-3/8" lengths. You'll install one
now, so set the other aside for use on the starboard wing.
Whether or not you're installing flaps right now, go ahead and install
this piece. You could change your mind down the road and this will
be VERY hard to install into a finished wing.
First, you'll need to trim the length so that it will fit perfectly between
R2 and R5 - when pushed into the
cutouts on the bottom of the R3
and R4 ribs.
Technically, this distance is 7.3053" according to the master
drawings, but just use your eye to sand/cut/trim the piece.
Then glue this in place, making sure it's glued to each of the ribs it
touches, and the strip is completely pushed into the slots.
■ ■ Step 56 - Wing Assembly (CS1)
Locate one CS1 from BP12. This will be cover the R1, R2 and R3 ribs
between the leading edge and the webs. Note that there are small
pegs as part of these
ribs. These not only help
set the height of those
ribs, but are now used
to properly place CS1
in the right orientation.
Make sure CS1 is glued
to each of those ribs, to
the leading edge and to
the webs.
■ ■ Step 57 - Wing Assembly (CS2, CS3)
Locate one CS2 from BP12, and one CS3 from BP11. These
will cover the same ribs, but from the webs back to the trailing
edge. Again, note the pegs so you can properly attach CS1. Then
attach CS2, referring to the above picture to make sure you have
everything in the proper orientation.
■ ■ Step 58 - Wing Assembly (sanding the root rib)
Time to do some sanding. Take the time to true up the root rib,
removing all the excess sticks and sheeting that extend past the
R1 rib itself.
A large, flat sanding block is best for this as you'll need the surface
to be completely flat and free of any extra sheeting, balsa or
basswood sticks.
Set the port wing half aside and begin work on the starboard half.
Tape the starboard wing plan and fresh wax paper on your board.
Then follow steps 24 through 58 to complete the starboard wing
half. Once finished, then move on to step 59.
Note that when building the starboard half that many of the
parts will need to be glued to the opposite side (the shear
webs, for instance). Always refer to the plans to make sure
you’re gluing the parts together in the correct way.
■ Step 59 - Wing Assembly (DH1)
Locate all three of the DH1s.
They will be glued together to form the wing's dihedral brace.
Note that if there is a bow to these pieces, that's OK.
Mix up some 15 or 30 minute epoxy and apply it to the concave
the edge that will be glued to the
back of the leading edge. Press
this in place, and use your long
straight-edge like we've shown
on the previous page. Doing this
allows you to evenly press over a
long area - pretty cool eh?
Once that glue has cured, then
apply more glue to the upper
edges of each of the ribs, the top of the webs and to the front
edge of the spar.
Slowly drag the straight edge rearwards to press the sheeting in place,
evenly working your way from the leading edge, back to the spar.
■ ■ Step 52 - Wing Assembly (trailing edge sheeting)
Grab the 3/4" width and it will be
glued into the rear notch of each
rib and up against the trailing
edge.
Again, using your long straight-
edge will help hold everything down
evenly along those long spans.
■ ■ Step 53 - Wing Assembly (C4)
Locate two CS4s from BP13.
These are used as the top
sheeting, over the R1, R2 and R3
ribs.
These pieces are identical and
made just a little wider than
needed, so they can be perfectly
trimmed to fit between the
upper spar and the trailing edge
sheeting you just installed.
Take your time trimming these, remembering that it's easier to
remove wood than put it back on!
Once satisfied with the fit of these pieces, glue both of them in
place, making sure they are firmly attached to spar, the trailing
edge, and the total length of where they make contact with the ribs.
■ ■ Step 54 - Wing Assembly (aileron stock)
Locate one of the 5/16" x 1-1/4" x 36
strips. These are used as the ailerons
and also the rear of the wing's center
section.
So, to make the rear of the wing's
center section, you'll need to measure
and cut this piece. The measurement
doesn't need to be exact, but does
need to be the same on both wings - we cut a 10" length.
Note that this piece's profile is tapered,
but not symmetrical. Using the diagram
to the right, glue this to the rear of the
trailing edge, so the 90° angle is against
the building board and the trailing edge.
This completes the top of the wing.
Carefully remove it from the board, and flip it over.
Nope.
Much
better.