Old school model works Ghost Instructions for use

CONSTRUCTION MANUAL

www.oldschoolmodels.com

Using the Manual

Be sure to read each step thoroughly before you start

the step. Test-ﬁt the parts together to make sure they

ﬁt properly. If necessary trim to ﬁt.

Beside each step you will notice a check box (or two).

These are so you can keep track of your progress

while building your kit. For steps that have two boxes,

as in the construction of the left and right wing halves,

these steps must be performed two times.

• Your Old School Model Works aircraft should not be

considered a toy, but rather a sophisticated, working

model that functions very much like a full-size airplane.

Because of its performance capabilities, this model, if not

assembled and operated correctly, could possibly cause

injury to yourself or spectators, and damage to property.

• You must assemble this model according to the

instructions. Do not alter or modify this model, as doing

so may result in an unsafe or un-ﬂyable model. In a few

cases the instructions may differ slightly from the photos.

In those instances the written instructions should be

considered as correct.

• You must take time to build straight, true and strong.

• You must use a R/C radio system that is in ﬁrst-

class condition, a correctly sized power system and

components (electronics, batteries, wheels, etc.)

throughout the building process.

• You must correctly install all R/C and other components

so that the model operates correctly on the ground

and in the air. (Installation shown in the manual is a

suggestion. You may have to adjust the mounting steps

to accommodate the size of your radio equipment.)

• You must check the operation of the model before every

ﬂight to insure that all equipment is operating and that

the model has remained structurally sound. Be sure to

check clevises or other connectors often and replace

them if they show any signs of wear or fatigue.

• If you are not an experienced pilot or have not ﬂown this

type of model before, we recommend that you get the

assistance of an experienced pilot in your R/C club for

your ﬁrst ﬂights. If you’re not a member of a club, your

local hobby shop has information about clubs in your

area whose membership includes experienced pilots.

• While this kit has been ﬂight tested to exceed normal

use, if this model will be used for extremely high stress

ﬂying, such as racing, or if a power system larger than

one in the recommended range is used, the modeler is

responsible for taking steps to reinforce the high stress

points and/or substituting hardware more suitable for the

increased stress.

Remember: Take your time and follow

the instructions to end up with a well-

built model that is straight and true.

Speciﬁcations:

Wingspan: 62 in.

Wing Area: 675 sq in.

Airframe Length: 49.5 in.

Weight: 4.5 - 6 lb.

Page 2 www.oldschoolmodels.com Construction Manual

WARNING

READ THROUGH THIS MANUAL

BEFORE STARTING CONSTRUCTION.

IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT WARNINGS

AND INSTRUCTIONS CONCERNING

THE CONSTRUCTION AND USE OF THIS

MODEL.

A Radio-Controlled aircraft is not a toy!

If misused, it can cause serious bodily harm

and damage to property. Fly only in open

areas, preferably at AMA (Academy of Model

Aeronautics) approved ﬂying sites, following all

instructions included with your radio, powerplant,

electronics and batteries.

• Inspect your model before every ﬂight to ensure it is airworthy.

• Be aware of any other radio frequency user who may present an

interference problem.

• Always be courteous and respectful of other users in your

selected ﬂight area.

• Choose an area clear of obstacles and large enough to safely

accommodate your ﬂying activity.

• Make sure this area is clear of friends and spectators prior to

launching your aircraft.

• Be aware of other activities in the vicinity of your ﬂight path that

could cause potential conﬂict.

• Carefully plan your ﬂight path prior to launch.

• Abide by any and all established AMA National Model Aircraft

Safety Codes.

IMPORTANT!!!

Two of the most important things you can

do to preserve the radio controlled aircraft hobby are to avoid ﬂying

near full-scale aircraft and avoid ﬂying near or over groups of people.

INCLUDED ITEMS

Wood parts included in this kit:

• 1 LP1 - laser cut 1/8” x 5” x 24” lite ply

• 1 LP2 - laser cut 1/8” x 5” x 24” lite ply

• 1 LP3 - laser cut 1/8” x 2” x 24” lite ply

• 1 LP4 - laser cut 1/8” x 5” x 24” lite ply

• 1 LP5 - laser cut 1/8” x 5” x 24” lite ply

• 1 LP6 - laser cut 1/8” x 2” x 24” lite ply

• 1 LP7 - 1 laser cut/8” x 5” x 24” lite ply

• 1 LP8 - laser cut 1/8” x 2.5” x 12” lite ply

• 1 LP9 - laser cut 1/16” x 2.5” x 5” lite ply

• 3 DH1 - laser cut dihedral braces 1/8” ply

• 1 BP1 - laser cut 1/8” x 4” x 12” balsa

• 1 BP2 - laser cut 1/8” x 4” x 12” balsa

• 2 BP3 - laser cut 3/32” x 4” x 12” balsa

• 2 BP4 - laser cut 3/32” x 4” x 12” balsa

• 2 BP5 - laser cut 3/32” x 4” x 12” balsa

• 2 BP6 - laser cut 3/32” x 4” x 12” balsa

• 2 BP7 - laser cut 3/32” x 4” x 24” balsa

• 2 BP8 - laser cut 3/32” x 4” x 24” balsa

• 2 BP9 - laser cut 3/32” x 4” x 24” balsa

• 1 BP10 - laser cut 3/32” x 4” x 24” balsa

• 2 BP11 - laser cut 1/16” x 4” x 24” balsa

• 2 BP12 - laser cut 1/16” x 4” x 12” balsa

• 2 BP13 - laser cut 1/16” x 4” x 12” balsa

• 2 BP14 - laser cut 1/16” x 4” x 24” balsa

• 2 BP15 - laser cut 1/16” x 4” x 24” balsa

• 2 BP16 - laser cut 1/16” x 4” x 12” balsa

• 2 BP17 - laser cut 1/16” x 4” x 24” balsa

• 1 BP18 - laser cut 1/4” x 3” x 12” balsa

• 1 BP19 - laser cut 3/16” x 3” x 12” balsa

• 2 1/16” x 4” x 36” balsa sheets

• 4 3/32” x 4” x 12” balsa sheets

• 2 1/2” x 1/2” x 36” balsa strips

• 2 5/16” x 5/16” x 36” balsa strips

• 3 1/4” x 1/4” x 36” balsa strips

• 4 3/16” x 3/16” x 36” balsa strips

• 4 3/16” x 3/8” x 36” basswood strips

• 2 5/16” x 1-1/4” x 36” shaped balsa strips

Hardware parts included in this kit:

• 4 1/4" x 1/8" magnets

• 10 2-56 x 1/2” machine screws

• 18 2-56 x 3/4” self tapping screws

• 4 3/16" wheel collars

• 4 wheel collars set screws

• 6 control horns

• 2 plastic landing gear straps

• 2 1/4-20 x 2” wing bolts

• 4 2-56 x 5/16" Phillips screws

• 4 #2 x 3/4" Phillips screws

• 2 4-40 x 1" socket head cap screws

• 1 1/4” x 4” dowel

Other items included in this kit:

• 3 - Rolled plans (fuselage and 2 wing)

• 1 - Construction Manual

ITEMS NEEDED

Hardware needed (not included in the kit)

For some of these items there is more than one option which will

require a bit of decision making ahead of time. There isn’t a right or

a wrong choice, so choose the items that work best for you.

We strongly recommended supporting your local hobby shop.

• Powerplant: 450+ watt electric, 3-4s lipo, 60+ amp ESC

(or .35-.46 2-stroke glow engine)

• Propeller

• Engine/Motor mount and mounting hardware

WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including lead, which

is known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other

reproductive harm. For more information go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.

Construction Manual www.oldschoolmodels.com Page 3

• 6-8 ounce fuel tank and fuel tubing (if glow)

• Receiver - (4 channel minimum)

• Servos

If 4 channel, 4 servos (electric), 5 servos (glow)

If 5 channel, 6 servos (electric), 7 servos (glow)

We used standard servos all around.

• 2 servo extensions for aileron servos (8-12")

• 2 “Y” servo harnesses (one for ailerons, and one for ﬂaps)

• Pushrods - two 6” for ailerons, two 6" for ﬂaps, two 28" for

elevator and rudder, one 10” for throttle (if glow)

• Clevises for the pushrods.

• Wheels: two 3” for mains

(Du-Bro Chromies look great - hint, hint).

• Tailwheel assembly

• Covering: If you're using simple color scheme, two rolls of iron-

on covering will be enough. You will need more if applying a

more complicated livery.

Additional Required Building Tools and Adhesives

• Drill & assorted drill bits

• Hobby knife and #10 blades

• Sandpaper: coarse (80 or 100 grit) & medium (150-200 grit)

• Pencil or pen

• Ruler

• T-Pins

• Waxed paper

• Building board

• 2-part epoxy (6 or 15 minute), brushes and mixing sticks

•

Wood adhesives of your choice. We use medium viscosity CA

(cyanoacrylate) , but aliphatic resin and/or carpenter’s glues (used

correctly) will work just as well and give longer working time.

• Thin CA for attaching the included hinges

We advise the following:

Closely inspect the supplied laser cut parts for damage. If you

ﬁnd any damaged or missing parts, contact us (not your dealer)

immediately.

When removing the laser cut parts from their sheets, you’ll notice

the parts are held in place by several small “tabs”. These tabs

are uncut pieces of wood and can sometimes make it difﬁcult to

remove a part. Rather than breaking and/or splintering the wood

by forcing out the part, we recommend removing any laser cut

parts from their sheets by using a hobby knife with a #10 blade.

A quick cut of the tab will allow the piece to be removed with no

damage. Sand any tab remainders ﬂush with the part so there will

be no problem aligning them later.

It’s best to not remove parts from their sheets until they are needed.

Refer to Appendix A of this manual as a reference to what all the

laser cut parts look like and are called.

You’ll notice a check box next to each step. Check these off as

you go along so you don’t miss a step. Note that some steps (in

building the wing) have two boxes - this means that the step will be

done twice - once for each wing half.

There could be a step or two which leaves you a bit puzzled. If this

happens, step back and study the photo(s) for that step - both in

this manual and online.

All photos shown in this manual are of different GHOST prototypes.

Several pieces may have changed slightly with improvements

we’ve made so parts may look a little different in some steps.

Online Supplementary Photos

We realize that the smaller black-and-

white photos in this manual might not

show some of the steps as clearly as you

might want. So we’ve anticipated this

and made these photos available on our

website. You can either scan the QR code

or type this address into your browser:

www.oldschoolmodels.com/mpics/GHOST/

IF YOU READ NOTHING ELSE

IN THIS MANUAL, PLEASE

READ THESE FOUR POINTS.

#1 - PLYWOOD HAS SLIGHT BOWS IN IT 95% OF THE TIME.

We don't like it, but that's the way plywood is. Because of

this, we engineered the GHOST to eliminate these warps

whenever possible - we'll make recommendations on how to

overcome them as we go along.

2 - BALSA HAS SLIGHT BOWS IN IT 60% OF THE TIME.

We don't like it, but that's the way balsa is. We'll make

recommendations on how to overcome them as we go along.

It is very important that you assemble the GHOST in

the order described. Skipping forward in the steps could

leave you without the proper lengths of wood to ﬁnish

the kit. We’ve included enough wood to easily complete

this kit, but you must take care to properly measure and

not waste wood when cutting.

Save ALL of the scrap wood as you build - the ends of

sticks, the left over sheets, etc. You will use some of this

in assembly, and can use other parts if you need repairs.

If this is your ﬁ rst build, congratulations!

What you're about to do is build a ﬂyable airplane - yup, that's a

pretty cool thing. All of the techniques that you'll learn here can

easily be used for anything else you'll build down the road.

Please read through each step before you start, so you can

understand what's needed to be done for that step. We'll try to

explain everything along the way, but there might be times you

run into something you can't wrap your head around. Help can

be found at your local r/c club, or even on the interwebs - lots of

forums and videos on building are available to you.

And remember, building is not a race. You are the craftsman and if

you take your time, take the time to understand, and make the effort

to do good work, it will certainly show when the airframe is built.

Page 4 www.oldschoolmodels.com Construction Manual

OSMW BASIC AIRCRAFT TERMINOLOGY

Aileron

Main Gear

Hatch

Firewall

Propeller

Spinner

Horizontal

Stabilizer Elevator

Elevator

Vertical Fin

Rudder

Tailwheel

3D FLYING (HOVERING) - Something that

should deﬁnitely NOT be done (or attempted)

with OSMW aircraft. Our designs are meant to ﬂy

like airplanes, not hovering like a helicopter.

AIRFOIL - the cross-section shape of a wing.

Airfoils can be ﬂat-bottomed (like the GHOST), or

other shapes, depending on the style of airplane

and what it needs to do.

AILERONS - the moving section of the trailing

edge (TE) of the wing. Ailerons come in pairs, (left

and right) and always work in opposite directions

to each other (one up, one down). When used,

they cause the airplane to roll to the left or right.

C/A - cyanoacrylate glue that bonds quickly

compared to woodworking glues. If using C/A with

the GHOST, we recommend medium viscosity for

the majority of the build, then for the hinges.

CENTER OF GRAVITY (CG) - the airplane's

point of fore-aft balance, or the point at which all

gravitational forces act on the plane.

CLEVIS - a plastic or metal clip that is used on the

end of pushrods, so the pushrod can be attached

to control horns and servo horns.

CONTROL HORN - a plastic component that is

securely attached to a control surface, onto which

the servo linkage is connected to.

CONTROL SURFACE - any moving part of ﬂying

surface: rudder, elevator, ailerons and/or ﬂaps.

DIHEDRAL - the upward 'V' angle of the wings

when viewed from the front. An airplane with

dihedral (like the GHOST) is more stable in the air

than one without.

DOWN THRUST - designed into the GHOST, it

angles the ﬁrewall and powerplant downward to

help counteract the natural lift of the ﬂat-bottom

airfoil when at higher speeds..

ELEVATOR - the moving section at the rear of

the horizontal stabilizer, that controls the pitch

attitude of the airplane.

FIN (VERTICAL STABILIZER) - the vertical surface

at the rear of the airplane used to stabilize the

plane in ﬂight.

FLAPS - moving sections of the trailing edge of

the wing, usually found between the ailerons and

fuselage. Flaps create more lift at slower ﬂying

speeds and also to slow the plane on landing

approach.

FUSELAGE - the main body of an airplane,

excluding wings, tail and everything else.

HORIZONTAL STABILIZER (TAILPLANE) - the

horizontal surface at the back of the fuselage, to

which the elevators are attached.

LANDING GEAR (MAIN GEAR) - the wires and

wheels on the forward part of the fuselage.

LEADING EDGE - (L.E.) - the front edge of the

wing, tailplane or rudder.

PILOT ERROR - any mistake, particularly one that

ends in a crash, made by the pilot for whatever

reason. Pilot error is rarely never admitted to

by the pilot in question. Instead, the incident is

usually blamed on radio failure, interference,

unexplained gusts of wind, extra fast-growing

trees, or gravity having some fun and suddenly

increasing its strength.

Don't be this type of pilot - admit it when there's

pilot failure - it happens to all of us.

PORT - the left side of anything.

PUSHROD - a piece of metal/ plastic rod (or

thread/cable) that connects a servo arm to its

control surface or function. Clevises are commonly

used at the ends of the linkages, to clip to the

servo/control horns.

RECEIVER - a component of the radio control

gear that lives inside the aircraft and picks up the

radio signals being emitted by the transmitter,

then sends signals out to attached servos.

RIGHT THRUST - designed into the GHOST, it

angles the ﬁrewall and powerplant to the right to

help counteract the natural pull to the left when at

higher speeds..

RUDDER

- the moving section on the back part

of the ﬁn. Used to control the airplane's yaw.

SERVO - the component of the radio control gear

that converts the radio signal into movement.

SERVO ARM - a plastic or metal piece ﬁxed to the

servo's output shaft, onto which a pushrod (and/or

clevis) connects.

STARBOARD - the right side of anything.

TAILDRAGGER - an airplane that has 2 main

wheels and a small tail wheel - like the GHOST.

Taildraggers require you to use the rudder when

on the ground, a bit more than tricycle gear

designs.

TRAILING EDGE (T.E.) - the rear edge of the

wing, tailplane or rudder.

WHEEL COLLAR - a small, donut-shaped metal

piece that slips on over the landing gear wire and

holds the wheel in place - using a small set screw.

WING - come on, seriously??

WINGSPAN - the overall length of the wing, from

tip to tip.

BASIC AIRCRAFT PARTS

Construction Manual www.oldschoolmodels.com Page 5

Let’s begin construction by building the

vertical ﬁn of your GHOST.

■ Prepare your work area

Position the vertical ﬁn plan over

your ﬂat building surface and tape

it into position. Tear off a length of

waxed paper long enough to cover

that portion of the plan and tape it

over the plan.

■ Step 1 - Vertical Fin Assembly (VF1, VF2)

Locate VF1 and VF2 from BP2. Pin

VF1 in place on the plans. Then apply

a small amount of glue in the notch of

VF2, where it will attach to VF1. Pin VF2

in place as shown here, making sure it's

nicely aligned and ﬂat on the building

board.

■ Step 2 - Vertical Fin Assembly (VF3)

Locate VF3 from BP2. Apply a small

amount of glue on each end, where it ﬁts

into both VF1 and VF2. Pin VF3 in place as

shown here, making sure it's nicely aligned

and ﬂat on the building board.

■ Step 3 - Vertical Fin Assembly (VF4, VF5)

Locate VF4 and VF5 from BP2. Apply a

small amount of glue on each end of VF4,

where it ﬁts into both VF2 and VF3. Pin

VF3 in place as shown here, making sure

it's nicely aligned and ﬂat on the building

board. Then do the same for VF5.

■ Step 4 - Vertical Fin Assembly (mark the glue line)

Grab a pencil and lightly draw a line onto

VF1, VF4 and VF5 that corresponds with

the sheeting joint line you see on the plans.

This will make it easier to apply the right

amount of glue in the next step.

After you mark this, remove any pins you

have holding these parts in place, but don't

lift off the assembly. There should be enough glue in place to hold

it in position.

■ Step 5 - Vertical Fin Assembly (VF7)

Locate one VF7 from BP17. Lightly sand

the top face of this assembly to remove

any excess glue so you'll have a smooth

surface. Now apply glue to the pieces

which are to the left of the line you drew.

Then place VF7 on top of the ﬁn framing, making sure it is perfectly

aligned, and ﬂat along it's entire length. Use a weight to hold it in

position until the glue cures.

■ Step 6 - Vertical Fin Assembly (VF8)

Locate one VF8 from BP17. Apply glue to

the rest of the exposed ﬁn framing, and to

the edge of VF7 that will touch VF8. Place

VF8 on top of the ﬁn framing, making sure it is perfectly aligned,

and ﬂat along it's entire length. Use a weight to hold it in position

until the glue cures.

■ Step 7 - Vertical Fin Assembly (VF7, VF8)

Carefully remove the ﬁn assembly from the

waxed paper. Flip it over and lightly sand

the framing's surface.

Locate the other VF7 and VF8 from BP17.

One at a time, glue these in place, just as

you did in the previous steps.

That completes the vertical ﬁn assembly. Set it aside and remove

the ﬁn plans from your building board.

■ Step 8 - Horizontal Stab Assembly (HS2)

Tape the horizontal stab plan over

your building surface and cover it

with waxed paper.

Locate HS2 from BP1 and pin it in

position. You might want to grab

a straight edge (we use a metal

yardstick) and place it along the bottom edge of HS2 to make sure

it's perfectly straight when pinned down.

■ Step 9 - Horizontal Stab Assembly (HS1B)

Locate HS1B from BP1. Apply glue to the

portion that ﬁts into HS2's center notch, then

pin it position as shown here.

■ Step 10 - Horizontal Stab Assembly (HS1A)

Locate HS1A from BP1. This is glued across

the top edge of HS1B, making sure not to get

any glue in the center of the HS1B cutout. Pin

this in position while the glue cures.

■ Step 11 - Horizontal Stab Assembly (HS4)

Locate both HS4s from BP1. These are glued

to each end of HS2 to form the port and

starboard stab tips. Apply glue where each

HS4 contacts HS2, then pin them in position.

■ Step 12 - Horizontal Stab Assembly (HS3)

Locate both HS3s from BP1 and BP2.

These are glued in place to form the port

and starboard leading edges of the stab.

Apply glue where each HS3 contacts

HS1A and HS4, then pin them in position.

■ Step 13 - Horizontal Stab Assembly (HS5, HS6, HS7)

Locate both HS5s, both HS6s and both HS7s from BP1. These are

glued between the leading and trailing

edges. Start with the HS5s, applying

glue where they contact HS3 and HS2.

Push them ﬁrmly in place, making sure

they are ﬂat. Then do the same for the

HS6s and then the HS7s.

Page 6 www.oldschoolmodels.com Construction Manual

■ Step 14 - Horizontal Stab Assembly (HS8)

Locate the eight HS8s from BP1. These

are all the same and are glued in

between the internal bracing. Starting

on the port end, apply glue to where

the HS8 will contact HS4 and HS7, then

glue it in place, nice and ﬂat. Work your

way across the stab, doing the same thing for each HS8 until you

reach the starboard tip.

■ Step 15 - Horizontal Stab Assembly (sanding)

You should now hopefully have

a stab assembly that looks

remarkably close what's shown

here.

Now, remove any pins

you have holding the stab

assembly in place, but don't lift

off the assembly. There should

be enough glue in place to hold it in position. Lightly sand the top

face to remove any excess glue so you'll have a smooth surface.

■ Step 16 - Horizontal Stab Assembly (HS10)

Locate HS10 from BP14. This

is glued to the back half of the

assembly. Apply glue to the

back half only, then carefully

attach HS10 so it's perfectly

aligned and ﬂat along it's entire

length. Again, weights might be

a good thing to hold in place while the glue cures.

■ Step 17 - Horizontal Stab Assembly (HS9)

Locate two HS9 from BP15

and BP16. These are glued to

the front half of stab, one on

each side.

Using the same techniques

you've just used, attach one

HS9 to the port half, and one

to the starboard half. Again, ﬂat and smooth is what we're looking

for here.

■ Step 18 - Horizontal Stab Assembly (HS9, HS10)

Carefully remove the stab assembly from the waxed paper. Flip it

over and lightly sand the stab's framing surfaces.

Locate the remaining HS10 from BP14, and the HS9s from BP15

and BP16. Glue these in place, just as you did for the other side.

■ Step 19 - Horizontal Stab Assembly (rear notch)

You'll notice that the stab's sheeting has

a notch cut into the trailing edge. Use a

hobby knife and/or a saw) to remove the

internal framing ﬁlling up this notch.

For a few reasons I won't go into here, this is

not something that can easily be engineered

here at OSMW World-Wide Headquarters.

It's just easier to remove this portion of wood after

the stab is assembled.

Once ﬁnished, set the completed stab aside.

■ Step 20 - Elevator Assembly (E1, E2)

Locate both E1s from BP2 and two E2s from BP17.

Position the E1s so they are mirror

images of each other. Then working

with one at a time, apply glue and

attach one E2 to each E1, making sure

they're perfectly aligned. This should

leave you with two mirror image

elevator halves, as shown here.

■ Step 21 - Elevator Assembly (joiner)

Locate the pre-bent elevator joiner from the

hardware bag. This is used to join the two

elevator halves together as shown here.

Use a ﬁle, or some sandpaper to rough/scuff

up it's surface, where it will ﬁt into the

elevator halves.

Because the pre-bent joiners are hand-cut

and hand-bent, you might need to adjust

the bends slightly to guarantee they are both at 90° and the joiner

is perfectly ﬂat. (Two pairs of pliers, one in each hand, should give

you the leverage needed to make any bends.)

■ Step 22 - Elevator Assembly (join elevator halves)

Grab that trusty straight edge

you used a few steps back.

Pin the port elevator half in

place, so that the pre-cut notch

in E1 is visible.

Now, place the other elevator

half in position, but don't pin it

down just yet. Instead, push the

joiner in the grooves of both halves.

Place your straight edge along the leading edge of the halves, as

shown here. Then pin the starboard half in place.

(The reason for this is because of the hand-cut nature of the joiner

can make it a little longer or shorter). No worries as sanding later

on will ﬁx all of this.

Now mix up a little epoxy that you'll use to glue the joiner in place.

Remove the joiner, apply the glue, then press the joiner back in

place. Clean up any excess epoxy with some denatured alcohol.

■ Step 23 - Elevator Assembly (E2)

While the epoxy is curing, locate

the remaining E2s from BP17 and

glue them on to the top of the E1s.

Again, make sure everything is

aligned and ﬂat along their lengths.

Once all the glue has cured, remove

the completed elevator assembly

from the board and set it aside.

This completes assembly of the tail surfaces.

See, this building stuff isn't as difﬁcult as you though, eh?

You've built all the tail surfaces and only needed a few pins,

a ﬁle, a straight edge and some sandpaper. Not bad.

Time to move on. The wing halves are built next, so clear your

board of all everything and let's make a great looking wing.

Construction Manual www.oldschoolmodels.com Page 7

■ Alignment triangle

Before we start on the wing construction,

there's a couple of tools that are pre-cut

into this kit.

One is a 90° triangle in LP1. It can be

used to vertically align any of the parts in

the construction of your GHOST. LP1 also

includes a foot piece that can be used with

the triangle to hold it vertically (hands-free).

■ Step 24 - Wing Assembly (prepare your work area)

Position the port wing plan over your

ﬂat building surface and tape it in

position. Tear off a length of waxed

paper long enough to cover that

portion of the plan and tape that over

the plan.

■ ■ Step 25 - Wing Assembly (bottom spar)

Locate one of the 3/16" x 3/8" x 36"

basswood sticks. This is used as the

lower wing spar. Position it on the plans

so it extends roughly a 1/4" past the tip,

as shown here. Now move to the other

end and mark the stick about 1/4" past

the innermost (root) rib - R1.

Cut this stick to length.

Then it needs to be attached in place over the plans. We use a few

drops of medium C/A to tack-glue this piece to the waxed paper

to hold it in place, instead of t-pins. Use your long straight-edge

to make sure it is aligned properly and is straight over it’s entire

length. The alignment of this spar is critical as the rest of the wing

panel is based off this single piece.

■ ■ Step 26 - Wing Assembly (LE1, LE2)

Locate one LE1 and one LE2

from BP11. These two pieces

will become the lower portion

of the leading edge.

Pin LE1 in place ﬁrst, then

apply glue where LE2 and LE1

contact each other - around that

modiﬁed "scarf" joint.

Pin LE2 in place, using your

straightedge to guarantee the straightest of straightnessship.

■ ■ Step 27 - Wing Assembly (TE1, TE2)

Locate one TE1 from BP11 and TE2

from BP15. These two pieces will

become the lower portion of the

trailing edge.

Pin TE1 in place ﬁrst, then apply glue

where TE2 and TE1 contact each

other - around that modiﬁed "scarf"

joint.

Pin TE2 in place, using your

straightedge to again guarantee the most straightest of straightness

that has ever been straight.

■ ■ Step 28 - Wing Assembly (T1, T2, T3, T4)

Locate T1 from BP10 as well as T2, T3

and T4 from LP4.

Place T1 ﬂat on your building surface,

in the same orientation as shown on the

plans, then you'll glue T2, T3 and T4 into

T1. Make sure each piece is perfectly

vertical - remember that 90° triangle?

■ ■ Step 29 - Wing Assembly (R7)

Locate one R7 from BP6. It is

glued to the tip assembly you just

made. Test ﬁt it ﬁrst, making sure

you know how all the tabs in each

of the T1-4 pieces ﬁt.

When you're ready, remove R7,

apply glue in the correct spots

and attach R7 in place.

■ ■ Step 30 - Wing Assembly (tip assembly)

The tip assembly is now glued in

place to the spar, as well as the

leading and trailing edges. You'll

note that there are notches in the

leading and trailing edges which

help position this rib, as well as the

rest of them (as you'll ﬁnd out).

This tip assembly will also rest on

the spar, holding it 90° without the use of tools - yup, another great

innovation from the OSMW Design Squadron Think-Tank.

Anyway, once you see how it's attached, apply glue to the spots

where the tip assembly contacts the other parts, then glue it in

place.

■ ■ Step 31 - Wing Assembly (webs)

Enter the webs, W3 shear-webs that is.

You'll have a bunch of these on BP11,

BP14 and BP15. You'll use one of these

along with a rib over the next few steps.

These webs add massive strength to a

wing, with very little weight.

These webs do ﬁve things at the same time.

1. They give you proper rib spacing with tabs that lock into the

rib's pre-cut slots (our exclusive WEB-LOCK construction).

2. They hold each rib perfectly vertical without needing tools.

3. The cutout GHOST face lets you easily know which way is

up - an upright face is the correct way.

4. The eye cutouts allow airﬂow between the different

chambers of the wing. This is very helpful in keeping

covering from bubbling up when you're covering later on,

and when the GHOST is at the ﬁeld in the boiling sun.

They just look really cool.

Yup, another bright idea from the warped minds of those who work

at the OSMW Development Center.

■ ■ Step 32 - Wing Assembly (W3, R5)

Locate one

R5 from BP4, BP5 or BP6. Also locate one W3 web and

test ﬁt it against R7. It should be placed so the face is upright, it's

tab is pushed fully into the slot in R7, and this web is ﬂush against

Page 8 www.oldschoolmodels.com Construction Manual

the bottom spar. Now that you

know how these work, remove this

web, apply glue along the edge

touching R7, and along the bottom

of the web where it contacts the

bottom spar. Glue this in position.

Then glue R5 to W3, the spar, the

leading and trailing edges.

■ ■ Step 33 - Wing Assembly (R5, W3)

Locate three more

R5s from BP4, BP5

or BP6 and three more W3s

. Working

your way inward, these webs and ribs

are glued in place, one at a time, using

the same techniques you just used on

the ﬁrst W3 and R5. Make sure all the

tabs, notches and slots are all correctly

positioned while the glue cures.

■ ■ Step 34 - Wing Assembly (R6, W3)

Locate two

R6s from BP4 and BP5

and two more W3s

. Still working

your way inward, these webs and

ribs are glued in place, one at a

time, using the same techniques

you just used on the previous ribs

and webs. Make sure all the tabs,

notches and slots are all correctly

positioned while the glue cures.

■ ■ Step 35 - Wing Assembly (SH2)

Locate four

SH2s from LP7 and LP8

Glue two of them together, one on

top of the other, to form a thicker SH2.

Make sure they are perfectly aligned

when doing this. You'll have two

matching, thicker SH2s when ﬁnished.

■ ■ Step 36 - Wing Assembly (SH2)

Now carefully push the two SH2s from the

previous step into the pairs of pre-cut holes

in the R6 ribs. Glue these in position to both

ribs as shown here.

■ ■ Step 37 - Wing Assembly (SH2 trim piece)

Locate one of the 1/4" x 1/4" strips of balsa

sticks - this will be your "small pieces" stick. Cut

four 2-3/8" lengths (the distance between the

ribs) off of this stick.

You'll glue one of these strips in place now,

on the back of the rear SH2 you just installed.

Make sure it is pushed ﬂat against the building board as well.

Set the other pieces aside as you'll use one when making the other

wing half, and the other two for the ﬂap area.

Note: these are not really structural pieces - it simply completes the

back end of the servo areas, and gives your covering something to

stick to - trust us, it will make perfect sense later on in the build.

■ ■ Step 38 - Wing Assembly (R5, W3)

Locate two

R5s from BP4 and BP5 and two more W3s

. Still working

your way inward, these webs and ribs

are glued in place, one at a time, using

the same techniques you just used on

the previous ribs and webs. Make sure

all the tabs, notches and slots are all

correctly positioned while the glue

cures.

■ ■ Step 39 - Wing Assembly (R4, W3)

Locate one

R4 from BP3 or BP4 and

another W3

. Still working your way

inward, this web and rib are glued in

place, using the same techniques you

just used on the previous ribs and webs.

Make sure all the tabs, notches and slots

are all correctly positioned while the

glue cures.

■ ■ Step 40 - Wing Assembly (R3, W3)

Locate one

R3 from BP3 and another

. Still working your way inward, this

web and rib are glued in place, using the

same techniques you just used on the

previous ribs and webs. Make sure all the

tabs, notches and slots are all correctly

positioned while the glue cures.

■ ■ Step 41 - Wing Assembly (SH2)

Locate four

SH2s from LP7 and LP8

. Glue

two of them together, one on top of the

other, to form a thicker SH2. Make sure they

are perfectly aligned when doing this. You'll

have two matching, thicker SH2s when

ﬁnished.

Now carefully push the two SH2s into the

pairs of pre-cut holes in the R3 and R4 ribs. Glue these in position to

both ribs as shown here.

■ ■ Step 42 - Wing Assembly (SH2 trim piece)

Locate one of the 2-3/8" lengths of 1/4" x 1/4" strips of balsa you

cut a few steps back.

Glue this strip in place on the back of the rear SH2 you just installed.

Make sure it is pushed ﬂat against the building board as well.

■ ■ Step 43 - Wing Assembly (R2, W2)

Locate R2 from BP3 and two W2s from

LP5 and LP7. Although thicker, the W2

webs are is glued in place just the same

as the other webs. The only change is

that one is glued on each side of the

lower spar. There are additional slots

in R2 and R3 to accommodate the

extra W2. Then R2 is glued in place, just like the other ribs.

■ ■ Step 44 - Wing Assembly (R1P, W1P)

Locate one R1P from LP7 and both W1Ps from LP5. You might also

want to pop out the 3° dihedral gauges (LP4 & LP5) and it's foot

that's part of LP4 as it can be used to help hold R1P at the correct

angle.

Note the face etched into both W1Ps - there's a winking eye. This

Construction Manual www.oldschoolmodels.com Page 9

clean and smooth, as this will form 3 sides of a box where the

dihedral brace will slide in to. The cleaner/smoother it is now, the

easier it will be to slide in the dihedral brace when it’s time.

Take your time and use a gentle touch in this step as you don’t want

to cut/sand/ﬁle more than you should, nor do you want to damage

the webs as it could weaken the wing or cause a misalignment.

Note that if you have a Japanese saw, is the perfect tool for this

job. These saws don't have the traditional offset in the teeth, so

they can cut smoothly, up-against edges like the webs.

■ ■ Step 49 - Wing Assembly (top spar)

Locate one DH1 (ply) another length of 3/16" x 3/8" x 36”

basswood strip to use as the upper spar. Measure and trim the spar

to length, again, leaving about a 1/4” extra past the root rib (R1).

It is HIGHLY advised that you take a test run on installing this

upper spar before any glue gets out of the bottle.

First lightly sand the edges of the spar's

bottom face as shown in the drawing to the

right. This will help the spar slide in easier.

Now start pressing it in place, starting at

the tip rib, and working your way towards

the root a little at a time. This will be a tight ﬁt and might require

“wiggling” the spar from side to side to slip in-between the webs.

Be sure to press the spar completely into the slot in each rib,

making it ﬂush with the webs.

Once you get to the open area between the R1 and R3 ribs, you'll

use the single DH1 as a spacer. Note that it is NOT glued in at this

point - just used as a spacer to keep the correct height for the spar.

Gluing this spar in correctly will take a bit of time, so we recommend

against using an instant setting glue. If you are using CA, use a

thicker formulation that gives you a bit of working time.

Once the spar is in place remove the

DH1, then wick thin C/A along the spar

to web joints (front and back) along the

entire length of the spar.

When ﬁtting the upper spar in the area of

the dihedral box, be careful not to drip

excess glue into the box formed between

R1 and R2 ribs.

■ ■ Step 50 - Wing Assembly (leading edge sheeting)

Locate one of the uncut 1/16" x 4" x 36" balsa sheets. Trim this

to length, similar to the way you cut the spar to length. It should

be ﬂush with the outer edge of the tip rib (R7) and extend about a

1/4" past the root (R1) rib.

Now using your trusty straight edge, you need to cut two pieces.

One will be 3" x 36" and the other will be 3/4" x 36".

■ ■ Step 51 - Wing Assembly (leading edge sheeting)

Set the 3/4" width piece aside for

now and let's install the 3" piece

as the leading edge sheeting.

This will glue to the back side of

the leading edge, to the ribs and

then gently curve so it can be

glued to the top of the ribs, webs

and up against the top spar.

To do this, ﬁrst apply glue along

denotes the side that should be

up-against R1 (it's also the side

with the 3° angle cut into it).

Glue both W1Ps in place, then

glue the R1P in place. You can

use the dihedral gauge to make

sure you are setting in the proper

angle while the glue cures.

Note that there really isn't anything for the front of W1P to glue to

right now. That's ok. We'll address that next.

■ ■ Step 45 - Wing Assembly (leading edge)

Locate one of the 1/2" x 1/2" x 36"

balsa strips as it will be used as part

of the wing's leading edge.

Measure and cut this to length,

making sure it extends about 1/4"

past the tip and root (R1) rib.

If this piece has a bit of a bow to it,

don't worry. You'll position it

so that when it's pushed into the tip and root ribs, the bow

protrudes out from the center (a convex curve). That way, this

bow can be steadily removed bit-by-bit as you push this piece

into the ribs along the length of the wing.

This strip will now be glued in place, gluing it to the LE1/LE2 piece,

as well as completely into every pre-cut notch of each rib you've

just installed. It will just touch the tip of R1 as well - just barely, but

enough to get some glue to hold it securely. ALSO MAKE SURE R1

FLAT AND STRAIGHT ALONG IT'S ENTIRE LENGTH - NO BOW!

■ ■ Step 46 - Wing Assembly (leading edge)

Locate one of the uncut 1/4" x 1/4" x

36" balsa strips to be used as the top

of the leading edge.

This will be glued to the top of the 1/2"

strip you just installed, up against the

front edge of each rib.

■ ■ Step 47 - Wing Assembly (trailing edge)

Locate one of the uncut 5/16" x 5/16"

x 36" balsa strips to be used as the

trailing edge.

This will be glued

to the TE1/TE2 piece

and to the rear edge of each rib.

■ ■ Step 48 - Wing Assembly (create dihedral box)

Now it’s time to cut-away the center of the R1 and R2 ribs. We've

shown before and after photos to help show what needs to be

done.

Before cutting this area

away, make sure that the

W1P and W2's are securely

glued to the ribs on the

outside of this area - not

the inside. This way things

won't move as you cut.

After cutting, make sure

that the area is completely

Lightly

sand here.

Lightly

sand here.

Before

cutting After

cutting

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■ ■ Step 55 - Wing Assembly (ﬂap anchor)

Remember that 1/4" x 1/4" balsa strip that we're using to cut small

pieces from? Measure and cut two 7-3/8" lengths. You'll install one

now, so set the other aside for use on the starboard wing.

Whether or not you're installing ﬂaps right now, go ahead and install

this piece. You could change your mind down the road and this will

be VERY hard to install into a ﬁnished wing.

First, you'll need to trim the length so that it will ﬁt perfectly between

R2 and R5 - when pushed into the

cutouts on the bottom of the R3

and R4 ribs.

Technically, this distance is 7.3053" according to the master

drawings, but just use your eye to sand/cut/trim the piece.

Then glue this in place, making sure it's glued to each of the ribs it

touches, and the strip is completely pushed into the slots.

■ ■ Step 56 - Wing Assembly (CS1)

Locate one CS1 from BP12. This will be cover the R1, R2 and R3 ribs

between the leading edge and the webs. Note that there are small

pegs as part of these

ribs. These not only help

set the height of those

ribs, but are now used

to properly place CS1

in the right orientation.

Make sure CS1 is glued

to each of those ribs, to

the leading edge and to

the webs.

■ ■ Step 57 - Wing Assembly (CS2, CS3)

Locate one CS2 from BP12, and one CS3 from BP11. These

will cover the same ribs, but from the webs back to the trailing

edge. Again, note the pegs so you can properly attach CS1. Then

attach CS2, referring to the above picture to make sure you have

everything in the proper orientation.

■ ■ Step 58 - Wing Assembly (sanding the root rib)

Time to do some sanding. Take the time to true up the root rib,

removing all the excess sticks and sheeting that extend past the

R1 rib itself.

A large, ﬂat sanding block is best for this as you'll need the surface

to be completely ﬂat and free of any extra sheeting, balsa or

basswood sticks.

Set the port wing half aside and begin work on the starboard half.

Tape the starboard wing plan and fresh wax paper on your board.

Then follow steps 24 through 58 to complete the starboard wing

half. Once ﬁnished, then move on to step 59.

Note that when building the starboard half that many of the

parts will need to be glued to the opposite side (the shear

webs, for instance). Always refer to the plans to make sure

you’re gluing the parts together in the correct way.

■ Step 59 - Wing Assembly (DH1)

Locate all three of the DH1s.

They will be glued together to form the wing's dihedral brace.

Note that if there is a bow to these pieces, that's OK.

Mix up some 15 or 30 minute epoxy and apply it to the concave

the edge that will be glued to the

back of the leading edge. Press

this in place, and use your long

straight-edge like we've shown

on the previous page. Doing this

allows you to evenly press over a

long area - pretty cool eh?

Once that glue has cured, then

apply more glue to the upper

edges of each of the ribs, the top of the webs and to the front

edge of the spar.

Slowly drag the straight edge rearwards to press the sheeting in place,

evenly working your way from the leading edge, back to the spar.

■ ■ Step 52 - Wing Assembly (trailing edge sheeting)

Grab the 3/4" width and it will be

glued into the rear notch of each

rib and up against the trailing

edge.

Again, using your long straight-

edge will help hold everything down

evenly along those long spans.

■ ■ Step 53 - Wing Assembly (C4)

Locate two CS4s from BP13.

These are used as the top

sheeting, over the R1, R2 and R3

ribs.

These pieces are identical and

made just a little wider than

needed, so they can be perfectly

trimmed to ﬁt between the

upper spar and the trailing edge

sheeting you just installed.

Take your time trimming these, remembering that it's easier to

remove wood than put it back on!

Once satisﬁed with the ﬁt of these pieces, glue both of them in

place, making sure they are ﬁrmly attached to spar, the trailing

edge, and the total length of where they make contact with the ribs.

■ ■ Step 54 - Wing Assembly (aileron stock)

Locate one of the 5/16" x 1-1/4" x 36

strips. These are used as the ailerons

and also the rear of the wing's center

section.

So, to make the rear of the wing's

center section, you'll need to measure

and cut this piece. The measurement

doesn't need to be exact, but does

need to be the same on both wings - we cut a 10" length.

Note that this piece's proﬁle is tapered,

but not symmetrical. Using the diagram

to the right, glue this to the rear of the

trailing edge, so the 90° angle is against

the building board and the trailing edge.

This completes the top of the wing.

Carefully remove it from the board, and ﬂip it over.

Nope.

Much

better.

Construction Manual www.oldschoolmodels.com Page 11

surfaces of each DH1. Carefully

align them, weight them down

and allow the glue to cure to form

a solid, one-piece dihedral brace.

Make sure these parts are perfectly

aligned and hopefully one of the

two sides will show the etched

center line, as shown here, but it's

not a problem it is doesn't show - you can draw your own centerline

with some measuring, some creative penciling and a straight edge.

■ Step 60 - Wing Assembly (DH1 test ﬁt)

Locate the DH1 assembly, WH1 from LP1, and the two wing halves.

There is a possibility that you'll have to sand DH1 to allow it to

ﬁt properly into the box you've made in each wing. Test ﬁt DH1

into each wing half, but don't JAM it in. Make notes on where

the DH1 might get stuck. Take some time test ﬁtting and sanding

DH1 as necessary to get a good ﬁt in both wing halves. Don’t

take off too much, too fast. Carefully sand as necessary to make

sure everything ﬁts properly and the root ribs in each wing half are

touching along their entire length when assembled into a single

wing. Take your time and get a good ﬁt that doesn’t require a

lot of force.

Remember you may also have to ﬁle inside the boxes built into

each wing half to get that perfect ﬁt. Make sure each box is smooth

and DH1 doesn't catch on any extra glue.

■ Step 61 - Wing Assembly (join wing halves)

Test ﬁt the wing halves together one last time and sand as necessary

for a good ﬁt. After test ﬁtting, n

ow it's time for the big one - joining

the wing halves together into a single wing.

To do this, you'll need both wing halves, the DH1 and locate WH1

from LP1.

You'll j

oin the wing halves permanently with 30 minute epoxy.

Remove the dihedral brace and apply the epoxy into the pockets in

each wing half and also coat the faces of each root rib.

Slide all the dihedral brace into one of the wing halves and you'll

also slide WH1 into place, making sure it's tabs ﬁt into the pre-cut

slot in R2.

Now slide remaining wing half in place. Using a couple of clamps

(or tape), hold wing halves ﬁrmly together. Wipe off any excess

epoxy and remove the clamps only after the epoxy has fully cured.

Remember, any twist in the alignment of the panels cannot be

ﬁxed after the epoxy cures and will lead to a poor ﬂying model.

■ Step 62 - Wing Assembly (WH4, WH5)

Locate WH4 from LP4, and both WH5s from

LP1 and LP2. The WH5s are glued to

either side of the WH4, making a sandwich

of sorts. But unlike most sandwiches

you've made (or eaten) in your life, this

one needs to be perfectly aligned - with

no condiments running into the pre-cut holes. And by condiments,

I mean glue.

■ Step 63 - Wing Assembly (WH2, WH3)

Locate WH3 from LP1. It is glued to the

bottom of the WH4/5 assembly, making sure

it pushed up against the ﬂat surface - (the tabs

are pushed all the way into WH3). Then do

the same for attaching WH2 (not shown here).

■ Step 64 - Wing Assembly (dowels)

Locate the 1/4" dowel from the hardware

bag. Measure and cut two 1-3/4" lengths

that you'll use as the wing-hold pegs.

Before gluing them in,

ound the ends of

each one, either by hand, or do it like we

do - lightly chuck them up in a drill and

spin it like a little lathe. Use sandpaper to

quickly round off one end, then the other.

Once rounded off, insert the dowels into

the WH3/4/5 assembly as pictured here.

On one side, the dowels should stick out

about a 1/8" or so, then the other side is

where the bulk of the dowels will be.

It is crucial that you glue these dowels

so they are perpendicular to the WH3/4/5 assembly - and in

line with each other. This will make mounting the wing quite a bit

easier later on.

■ Step 65 - Wing Assembly (WH assembly)

Now you can glue the

completed WH assembly

into the bottom of the wing -

into WH1 you installed when

joining the wings. Test ﬁt it

ﬁrst, making sure that it clears

the sheeting.

Then when you're satisﬁed,

glue it in place, making sure it is completely inserted into WH1 and

that both dowels stick out past the leading edge of the wing.

■ Step 66 - Wing Assembly (WH assembly)

Use some of the scrap balsa you

have to ﬁll in the areas on each

side of the WH assembly as we've

done here. It might not come out

to the perfect level of the wing

sheeting, but it's better to be a

little thicker and sand it off later,

than be a bit short and have dips

in the sheeting that show after you cover the wing.

■ Step 67 - Wing Assembly (WH6)

Locate both WH6s from LP9. These

are glued on wing's top surface, along

the trailing edge, on each side of the

centerline.

PLEASE PAY ATTENTION TO THE

ORIENTATION OF THESE PIECES - the

longer edge should be against the centerline, and the shorter

edge along the trailing edge.

Glue these in place, keeping glue out pre-cut hole area.

■ Step 68 - Wing Assembly (ailerons)

Locate both leftover lengths of 5/16" x 1-1/4" tapered balsa sticks.

These should now be trimmed to form the ailerons. To easily get

the proper length, grab a piece of scrap 3/32" balsa (from BP3-6).

Use it as a spacer between the tapered stock already attached to

the wing, and to the edge of the aileron strips. Move to the outer

edge and mark the balsa strip where it should be cut. Hopefully

Step 62 - Wing Assembly (WH4, WH5)

Locate WH4 from LP4, and both WH5s from

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both ailerons will be the same length, but just in case they need

to be slightly different, mark the port aileron by sticking a piece of

tape on it so you'll know which is which for later on.

This completes assembly of the GHOST wing.

Now it’s time to start construction of the fuselage.

■ Prepare your work area

Now it’s time to assemble the fuselage. You won’t necessarily

need to tape down the fuselage plan to the board. Instead you can

simply use it as a reference. However, you may need to put down

some fresh waxed paper as you’ll need it for a few of the steps.

■ Step 69 - Fuse Assembly (P1, P2, S1, S2)

Locate P1 from LP1, P2 from LP3, S1 from LP2, and S2 from LP6.

Start with P1 and P2 to make the port

side of the cabin area. Make sure you

remove any leftover ply from when you

cut them free from their sheets, as this

can get in the way of proper alignment.

Test ﬁt P1 and P2 together and make sure

the notches all properly ﬁt into the tabs.

Don't worry about any bowing along the length of these parts, as

that can actually aid in the fuselage assembly down the road. Yup,

I said that the bowing could aid down the road, as these pieces

have been designed and cut so that can actually happen - another

ﬁne example of forward-thinking from the Ohio Division of OSMW.

Because of the length of these glue joints, we found it best to

glue a little at a time, keeping it weighed/pinned down as we went

along. Your mileage

may vary, but make sure

both parts are ﬁrmly

glued together and the

joints are ﬂat.

Do the same to join S1

and S2, forming the

starboard side of the

cabin.

■ Step 70 - Fuse Assembly (FS2, FS3)

Locate both FS2s from BP8

and both FS3s from BP9.

These are glued together

to make two identical front

halves of the fuselage sides.

Similarly to what you did

when gluing the cabin sides

together in the last step

you'll need to make sure you remove any leftover balsa from when

you cut them free from their sheets, as this can get in the way of

proper alignment. Test ﬁt one FS2 and FS3 together and make sure

the notches all properly ﬁt into the tabs.

When you're satisﬁed, then glue these together along their entire

length. You may have to do this a little at time, but that's your call.

Make sure all the joints are nice and ﬂat along their entire length

while the glue cures. Again, a weight, tape and/or pins could be

of beneﬁt here.

Do the same to make the other matching side sheeting.

■ Step 71 - Fuse Assembly (FS1, FS4)

Locate both FS1s from BP7

and both FS4s from BP9.

Just like you did in the

previous step you'll join FS1

and FS4 together to make

two identical pieces that

form the back half of the side

sheeting.

Make sure you remove any leftover balsa from when you cut

them free from their sheets, as this can get in the way of proper

alignment. Test ﬁt one FS1 and FS4 together and make sure the

notches all properly ﬁt into the tabs.

When you're satisﬁed, then glue these together along their entire

length. You may have to do this a little at time, but that's your call.

Make sure all the joints are nice and ﬂat along their entire length

while the glue cures. Again, a weight, tape and/or pins could be

of beneﬁt here.

Do the same to make the other matching side sheeting.

■ Step 72 - Fuse Assembly (side sheeting)

Now you'll glue one FS2/3 and one FS1/4 assembly together to

form the completed fuselage side sheeting as shown here.

Do this to make both side sheets and take the time to make sure

they both match when stacked on top of each other. This is crucial

for a good ﬂying GHOST.

■ Step 73 - Fuse Assembly (port side sheeting)

Take one of the side sheets

that you just made. Lightly

sand over the joints on both

sides to remove any glue.

Then place is on your

building surface like we've

pictured here - nose to the

right, tail to the left.

Now you'll glue the P1/P2 assembly to the sheeting. Alignment is

very crucial here, as being off even a little will really make things

difﬁcult in a few steps.

So, you'll make sure these are aligned,

paying close attention around the

curvature of the nose, and in the area

of the wing saddle. Thats were these

pieces are identical. If those are in

alignment, the rest will be in the right spot.

You might want to play with this before squirting out some glue to

make sure you understand just where this goes.

When you're ready, apply glue to the back side of P1/P2 and then

stick it in place. We strongly suggest using weights over the entire

area to keep things in contact.

■ Step 74 - Fuse Assembly (starboard side sheeting)

Now do the same thing to

create the starboard side,

except as a mirror image.

This time, place the nose to

the left and the tail to the right,

then work with the alignment

of S1/S2.

When you're ready, apply glue

Construction Manual www.oldschoolmodels.com Page 13

to the back side of S1/S2 and then stick it in place. We strongly

suggest using weights over the entire area to keep things in

contact.

■ Step 75 - Fuse Assembly (bottom fuselage framing)

Locate two of the 3/16" x 3/16 x

36" balsa sticks.

You'll need to measure and cut

them so they'll run from F3, all

the way back to the start of TW1

(there's a notch in the sheeting at

the point).

Now you'll glue one to the inside

of each fuselage side, starting at

F3 - up against the bottom of the plywood sheeting, then running

along the bottom side of the fuselage sheeting. It needs to be

ﬂush with that edge and make sure it also matches the curvature

of the fuselage.

You probably should do this a little at a time, rather than trying to

do it all in one big step.

■ Step 76 - Fuse Assembly (top fuselage framing)

Locate the other two 3/16" x 3/16" x

36" balsa sticks.

You'll need to measure and cut a

piece from each stick, starting at the

point marked "sheeting break point"

on the plans, extending back to the

start of the stabilizer.

Glue this in place making sure it is

ﬂush with the top edge of the fuselage sheeting.

Make sure you do this for both sides.

■ Step 77 - Fuse Assembly (top fuselage framing)

Using the scrap 3/16" x 3/16" x 36" balsa

stick, measure and cut a piece that spans

the distance from the sheeting break

point" up to F4.

Glue this in place making sure it is

ﬂush with the top edge of the fuselage

sheeting. Make sure you do this for both sides.

■ Step 78 - Fuse Assembly (top fuselage framing)

Using the scrap 3/16" x 3/16 x 36" balsa stick, measure and cut

two pieces that are 5-1/2" long. These

will run along the horizontal stab cutout,

from the leading edge to 3/4" from the

rear of the sheeting.

Glue this in place making sure it is

ﬂush with the top edge of the fuselage

sheeting.

Make sure you do this for both sides.

■ Step 79- Fuse Assembly (bottom fuselage framing)

Using the scrap 3/16" x 3/16" x 36"

balsa stick, measure and cut two pieces

that go from the front of the landing

gear blocks, forward to the notch in the

plywood sides, as shown here.

Glue this in place making sure it is ﬂush

with the bottom edge of the fuselage sheeting.

Make sure you do this for both sides.

Over the next several steps we're going to make several sub-

assemblies that will be used when joining the fuse sides together,

so set the fuselage sides, to the side, for now.

■ Step 80 - Fuse Assembly (F5A, F5B, F5C)

Locate F5A and both F5Bs from BP10.

F5Bs are glued the upright sides of F5B

to strengthen them. One goes on the left

side, one on the right, making sure they

are aligned with the upright edges of F5A

- not covering up any of F5A's tabs.

■ Step 81 - Fuse Assembly (F3A, F3B)

Locate F3A and F3B from LP4. F3B

is glued across the top of F3A to

strengthen it, where the wing dowels

will slide through. Make sure it is

aligned, with the bottom edge of F3B

lined up with the top of the center

cutout of F3A. Also make sure that the

pre-cut holes are aligned. Glue this in

place, as shown here.

■ Step 82 - Fuse Assembly (LG2)

Locate the four LG2s from LP1. These are

glued one on top of each other to make

the landing gear block.

Epoxy is a good choice here, but be careful

not to introduce any glue into the pre-cut

holes in the LG2s.

Hey, here's a simple tip on how to align

these. Grab both pre-bent main gears

from the hardware bag. Then slip each of

the LG2s in place over the gear and then

use a clamp to keep everything from

moving while the glue cures.

■ Step 83 - Fuse Assembly (WH6, WH7)

Locate WH6 from LP4 and the four

WH7s from LP5. These are glued one

on top of each other to make the wing

hold down block.

Think of this as another sandwich, this

time with Texas toast for bread. You'll

use WH6 as the meat and two WH7s on

each side for the extra thick bread.

Again, epoxy is a ﬁne choice here. Clamp everything together and

make sure it's all nice and aligned.

■ Step 84 - Fuse Assembly (CG8, CG9)

Locate both CG8s and four CG9s from

LP4 and LP5.

These are sandwiches again, but back

to normal thickness - but now you're

making two matching sandwiches.

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www.oldschoolmodels.com Construction Manual

Glue one CG9 to each side of CG8, making sure they're nice and

perfectly aligned. Then do the same to create the other CG8/CG9

sandwich

- mmmmmm, yummy!

■ Step 85 - Fuse Assembly (F1, F2)

Locate F1 and F2 from LP5. These are

glued together, but a little care needs to

be taken here.

Note all the fancy etching on the front

of F1. This needs to show once the

parts are glued together. So F2 will be

attached to the back of F1. Also, the hole in the center of these

pieces match up, but are not symmetrical. Test "ﬁt" them together

to make sure how they align. The cutout circles will match, the left

and right sides will align, as will the top edge.

The bottom edge however, will not.

So, when you're ready mix up some epoxy and make these two

pieces become one. Clamp things up to make sure they stay in the

right place while the glue cures.

IF, AND ONLY IF - you are going to use electric power for

your GHOST, you'll need to make this assembly -

the electric ﬁrewall.

If going glow, sounds good - skip to step 88.

■ Step 86 - Fuse Assembly (electric ﬁrewall - E1, E2)

Locate EF1 from LP7 and EF2 from

LP5. These are glued together, but

a little care needs to be taken here.

Note more of that fancy etching on

the front of EF1. This needs to show

once the parts are glued together.

So EF2 will be attached to the back

of EF1. Also, the hole in the center

of these pieces match up, but are

not symmetrical. Test "ﬁt" them together to make sure how they

align. The cutout circles should align when all the sides line up.

So, when you're ready mix up some epoxy and make these two

pieces become one. Clamp things up to make sure they stay in the

right place while the glue cures.

■ Step 87 - Fuse Assembly (glow ﬁrewall)

Also, if you're using electric you'll need to

cutout a few holes in the glow ﬁrewall (F1/F2).

We've etched the areas that should be cutout.

The holes are simple 1/4" holes that can be

handled by drilling them out. The elongated

hole on the bottom can be drilled out with the

same 1/4" on each end, then the area between

the holes can be ﬁled/cut away. Most of these holes allow for air to

ﬂow over the battery and ESC. The elongated hole on the bottom

allows the motor's three wires to enter the fuselage.

■ Step 88 - Fuse Assembly (F4A, F4B, F4C)

Locate F4A, F4B and both F4Cs from

LP5. F4B is glued across the center of

F4A, making the sets of holes are aligned

between the two parts.

The F4Cs go across the top and bottom

of F4A. Note their positions in the photo.

The top F4C is just below the upper tabs. The lower is aligned with

top of the lowest cutout.

■ Step 89 - Fuse Assembly (F3, TR1)

Locate TR1 from LP4 and the F3

assembly. TR1 is pushed through the

center of F3 at an angle, then rotated

so the left and right uprights of F3 ﬁt

into TR1's slots.

TR1 should rest on the two small

triangle supports when it's glued

in place, with it's etched circle in the corner, positioned on the

starboard side. Also note the orientation of F3B, it will face the

larger portion of TR1.

Make sure these two pieces are exactly 90° to each other when

gluing them together. (Remember that triangle from earlier?)

■ ■ Step 90 - Fuse Assembly (servo rails)

Now here's another cool thing that's designed into each and

every GHOST. Those smart folks in the OSMW Department of

Awesomeness have integrated our exclusive Multi-Size Servo

mounts into the GHOST - they're everywhere, including the sides

of the fuselage.

So, let's do this thing. You're gonna need a few things for this. The

ﬁrst is to grab one of the fuselage sides - doesn't matter which one.

Next you'll need your elevator or rudder servo - again doesn't

matter which one. You'll need to pop out six of the small "h"

shaped servo rails and two of the small servo rectangles. They're all

over the LP sheets - BUT DON'T USE THE ONES ON BP8 - Those

are "L" shaped and used for the wing's servos.

Lastly, you'll need one of the SHGs from LP1 or LP2. Yup, that's a

lot of stuff, but it'll all make sense in just a little bit.

Put three of the “h” shaped rails into the

SHG as shown here. This little guide/jig/

thing-a-ma-jig makes it easy to align these

three small pieces - just make sure you

don't glue the rails to the SHG.

Make two rails.

■ ■ Step 91 - Fuse Assembly (servo rails)

Those two servo rails can now be

pushed into the pre-cut slots in the

fuselage ply framing. Push in the rail

that'll be more "forward" ﬁrst, then

use your servo to gauge where the

other rail should be placed. Mark this

on the fuselage, remove the rails,

apply glue to them and then ﬁx them

in place permanently.

Also glue a small rectangle on top of each rail, as we've shown

here.

■ ■ Step 92 - Fuse Assembly (mount the servo)

Now you can drill and attach the servo

to the inside of the fuselage, using the

servo's mounting screws.

This might seem like a strange time to

do this, but it works quite well, as you

have more room to make this happen

than you will later on.

WH6

F3B

WH4

WH7

CG9

WH2

F4A

F4C

F4B

F2 EF2

W1PW1P W2

F3A H8

CG8 CG8 CG9 CG9

TR1

Construction Manual www.oldschoolmodels.com Page 15

First, glue in all of the pieces from F3,

rearwards. They're all ﬂat which makes

holding the port side in place as easy

as clamping the two sides together

around the cabin area.

Also, place the fuselage upright on the

table, as pictured. Push down on both

sides to make sure they're ﬂat against

the board. We're trying to eliminate any

twists while the glue is curing. You can

check this by pulling the balsa sides

together at the rear - they should

match up, aligning with each other.

Second, work from F3 forward, using

epoxy and clamps to make this work.

Note, that if you are going to use

electric power, you'll also need to

glue in the EF1/EF2 assembly during

this same time. Note it's etched

circle that should be on the

starboard side.

As just stated, use epoxy for

this, and clamps. Epoxy for the

strength, and clamps to make

sure it all stays as you left it.

■ Step 100 - Fuse Assembly (rear fuselage pins)

This next step doesn't require any glue - you're simply holding

things in place to help in the next few steps.

Grab the vertical ﬁn and a few pins. You'll now put the vertical in

between the fuselage sides, then squeeze the two sides together

so they are aligned and are touching the ﬁn.

Now push in a few pins at various

angles to hold this all together.

What we're looking for are two

matching tapers on the fuselage

sides, if you were to sight down the

fuselage from the front and back.

Also the sides should be level with

each other.

■ Step 101 - Fuse Assembly (F5)

Locate the F5 assembly from several

steps back.

You'll now glue this in between

the fuselage sides, making sure

it's tabs are fully inserted to the

corresponding slots pre-cut into

both sides of the fuselage.

■ Step 102 - Fuse Assembly (F6)

Locate F6 from BP10. You'll now

glue this in between the fuselage

sides, making sure it's tabs are

fully inserted to the corresponding

slots pre-cut into both sides of the

fuselage.

■ Step 93 - Fuse Assembly (servo rails)

Now go back to step 89 and repeat everything you just did, so now

you can mount the servo into the other fuselage side.

■ Step 94 - Fuse Assembly (F4)

Locate the F4 assembly and the starboard

fuselage side. Place the fuse side with the

plywood upwards, nose pointed to the left

and tail to the right - just as in this photo.

Glue F4 in place, into the slots pre-cut into

the plywood sides. Note it's orientation and

make sure that the F4's support pieces face

towards the rear of the fuselage, as pictured here.

■ Step 95 - Fuse Assembly (F3)

Locate the F3/TR1 assembly. Glue F3 in place,

into the slots pre-cut into the plywood sides

and the bulk of the TR1 facing towards the

nose.

Note that TR1's tabs will not necessarily ﬁt

into the fuselage side yet, as it tapers toward

the front. Don't worry about this right now, as

that will be taken care of in a few steps.

■ Step 96 - Fuse Assembly (CS8/CS9)

Time to glue in the CS8/CS9 sandwiches.

Make sure they are completely inserted into

the plywood sheet. Also make sure they are

perfectly perpendicular to the ply in both

directions.

■ Step 97 - Fuse Assembly (WH6/WH7)

Now it's time to glue in the Texas toast

assembly of WH6/WH7. Make sure the tabs in

Wh6 are completely inserted into the plywood

sheet's slots. Also make sure it is perfectly

perpendicular to the ply in both directions.

■ Step 98 - Fuse Assembly (F1/F2)

Remember that we told you not to worry about

the taper in the TR1 piece? Well, now we're going to tackle part

of that.

Grab the F1/F2 ﬁrewall

assembly and test ﬁt this to

the front of TR1. At the same

time you can bend the front

of the fuselage sheeting see

that the tabs in the tray and

the ﬁrewall will ﬁt into the

slots pre-cut into the side

sheeting.

When you see how this will work, mix up a little epoxy to glue these

pieces together. Make sure you do NOT introduce any twist into

the fuselage side when doing this.

■ Step 99 - Fuse Assembly (port fuselage side)

Now it's time to attach the port fuselage side to the starboard

assembly. This is gonna take a bit of time, and we recommend

doing this in two steps.

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■ Step 103 - Fuse Assembly (bottom fuse sheeting)

Locate a couple of the uncut

3/32" x 4" x 12" sheets. You'll use

this to start the sheeting on the

bottom of the fuselage.

Measure and make a mark on

both side of the fuselage - 3-7/8"

forward of F4 (or 7.4" behind F3

if you prefer). This is the start of the sheeting - a piece at a time.

Hold the sheeting against the fuselage, making sure the grain is

cross-ways. Mark, cut and

glue the ﬁrst 4” section of

sheeting in position. Using

this same technique, work

your way backward 4” at a

time, until you get close to

the TW1 cutout. Then you'll

have to trim the piece to ﬁt

the remaining distance.

Be careful to waste as little of the sheeting as possible.

■ Step 104 - Fuse Assembly (TW1)

Now before you start this step,

there's a few things shown

installed in this photo - things

that we haven't asked you to do

- don't worry, you haven't missed

anything - just part of making

prototypes, then ﬁguring the steps

on how best to put it together.

Locate both TW1s from LP2. These

are glued in place at the rear of the fuselage, into the pre-cut notch

in the fuselage sides. One goes on top (or bottom) of each other,

nicely aligned as always.

At this point you can remove the pins and vertical ﬁn.

■ Step 105 - Fuse Assembly (elevator/rudder pushrods)

Before the top sheeting is installed,

we recommend installing the elevator

and rudder pushrod guides inside the

fuselage. Pushrods are not included and

we recommend a set of ﬂexible pushrods,

similar to those by Du-Bro, Sullivan,

etc. These have an outer tube which is

permanently installed in the fuselage.

You'll push these tubes in through the

pre-cut holes in F4, F5, F6 and then out

of the fuselage side's elongated cutouts,

similar to what’s shown in this pic.

■ Step 106 - Fuse Assembly (top fuselage sheeting)

Locate more of the uncut 3/32" x 4" x 12" sheets. You'll use this to

start the sheeting on the top of the fuselage.

Start at the F4 and work your way back to the horizontal stab cutout

- a piece at a time. Hold the sheeting against the fuselage, making

sure the grain is cross-ways. Mark, cut and glue the ﬁrst 4” section

of sheeting in position. Using this same technique, work your way

backward 4” at a time, until you get close to the stab cutout. Then

you'll have to trim the piece to ﬁt the remaining distance.

Be careful to waste as little of the sheeting as possible.

Time for a couple of big steps. These require a bit of time

to make sure you get them right, as they can DRASTICALLY

change how well, or how bad your GHOST will ﬂy.

■ Step 107 - Fuse Assembly (ﬁt the wing)

It's been awhile, but remember the wing - that really long thing

you made with the slight bend in the middle? Well it's time to

mate it up to the fuselage. Before you can do that properly, you'll

need to sand the leading edge of the wing

- you don't have to do all of it right now, but

you do have to do a few inches either side

of the center, so it will sit properly in the

fuselage's wing cradle.

Luckily, the brilliant minds over at the OSMW

Department of Sanding and Finishes have

developed this little LE Jig (from LP5) that

will show you when you've got the correct leading edge shape.

Also you'll need to test ﬁt the wing pegs into the pre-cut holes in

F3. They should slide in with little effort, but you might need to use

a ﬁle to slightly sand the holes to get a good ﬁt - again not sloppy!

DO NOT SAND THE DOWELS - as it will weaken them.

■ Step 108 - Fuse Assembly (wing alignment)

With the wing now properly

ﬁtting into the fuselage, it's time

to align it.

To align the wing properly on

the fuselage, place the wing in

position, then allow the wing

to rest in the wing saddle. The

wing is perfectly aligned when the

distance from the port wing tip to the rear

of the fuselage is the same the distance when measured from the

starboard wing tip to the rear of the fuselage. You shouldn't need

to twist the wing much at all for this to match up.

■ Step 109 - Fuse Assembly (wing bolt holes)

With the wing aligned, drill two 3/16” holes for the wing bolts,

using the pre-cut holes in WH6 as a guide. Use caution to make

sure the wing does not move until both holes are drilled.

When drilling, take your time and make sure the drill is held so the

bit is in the center of the wing holes and perpendicular with the

wing’s sheeting.

This will make it so the wing bolt goes in at an angle, but the screw’s

head will be ﬂat on the wing surface. Remove the drill, remove the

wing and clean up around the new holes you drilled.

Run a 1/4x20 tap through the WH5/6 pieces so that the wing

bolts will thread into this block. A few drops of thin CA will help

strengthen and secure the threads you’ve cut.

We've found this to be a very secure way of holding the wing in

place for all of our prototypes, but... if you don't want to go this

way, you can also use 1/4x20 t-nuts (not included). If you go that

route, you may also need slightly longer bolts, but that's something

you'll have to ﬁnd out for yourself.

Once you have the holes drilled and tapped, mount the wing to

the fuselage and bolt it in place.

A A

Construction Manual www.oldschoolmodels.com Page 17

■ Step 110 - Fuse Assembly (ﬁn, stab)

Locate the vertical ﬁn and stab from

way back at the start of the build.

It's time to join them together into

a single unit.

Test ﬁt the two together ﬁrst, as you

might need to do a little sanding of

the cutouts in the stab to make the

ﬁn slide in as it should. You want it

to be easy to slide in, but not a sloppy ﬁt. Once you have it ﬁtting

properly, it's time to glue them together, and you might want to

grab that 90° triangle to make sure the two pieces are perfectly

perpendicular to each other.

■ Step 111 - Fuse Assembly (ﬁn, stab)

Now it's time to ﬁt the complete

tail assembly on to the rear of the

fuselage.

Again, this will require a bit of test

ﬁtting, as you might need to sand

a few things to make sure it ﬁts as

it should.

What we're looking for is for the

stab and ﬁn to ﬁt completely into the fuselage. Also, the stab

should be level with the wing, as well as aligned side to side.

To do all of this, push the stab in place, then sight down the

fuselage. It should hopefully be level, and level with the wing. If it

needs a little adjustment, note which side it high, then remove the

stab and lightly sand the cutout in the fuselage on the appropriate

side.

Reﬁt the tail assembly, and keep doing this until you have it as

perfect as you can. You shouldn't need to do much of anything

here, but remember - you can easily take wood off, but it's much

harder to put back on!

Now with the tail assembly level, you want to make sure that it's

straight. Sight down the fuselage and make sure that the vertical ﬁn

isn't pointing to the left or to the right - you want it bang-on-straight.

Once you have the tail assembly all lined up, make a few marks on

the stab with a pencil so you can easily re-align this to the fuselage.

■ Step 112 - Fuse Assembly (VF6)

Locate VF6 from BP18. It is

glued in place to make up

the front of the vertical ﬁn as

it blends into the top of the

fuselage.

When gluing this in place, make

sure that it is straight along the

top of the fuselage.

■ Step 113 - Hatch Assembly (H1, H2, H3)

Locate H1 and H2 from LP4 and both H3s from LP1 and LP2.

These pieces make up the framing for the hatch.

Before test ﬁtting them, you'll need

to sand a bevel on the edge of H1,

where it will touch H2. This angle is

not something we can cut on the

laser-gizmos we have.

Sanding this angle will allow H1 and H2 to touch each

other when ﬁtted to the H3 side rails.

Glue these pieces together like

we've shown here.

■ Step 114 - Hatch Assembly (H4)

Locate both H4s from LP2. These are

glued to the inside edges of the H3s.

Make sure they are nicely aligned

and ﬂat against the surfaces of H1

and H2 as shown here.

■ Step 115 - Hatch Assembly (H5)

Locate H5 from BP19 and test ﬁt to the top of H2,

noting that the side tapers of both pieces should

match. Now you'll need to sand another bevel,

this time on the edge of H5 that will touch H6.

Again, something that we can't do with the laser-

gizmos we have here at OSMW International.

Now glue H5 to the top of H2, making

sure it's perfectly aligned and the

beveled edge is facing upward, like

we've shown here.

■ Step 116 - Hatch Assembly (H6, H7)

Locate H6 and H7 from BP19.

Note that they have small arrows

etched in to them, and these are the

two edges that should be touching

when installed on top of the hatch (on

top of H1).

Test ﬁt them, noting the taper of the

sides again.

When you're sure how everything lines up, glue these pieces in

place.

■ Step 117 - Hatch Assembly (magnets)

Locate the four magnets from the hardware

bag as these are used to hold the hatch in

position.

One is pressed and glued into the pre-cut hole

inside the port and starboard fuselage sides.

The other two are installed into the pre-cut

holes inside the hatch (both H3s). Makes sure

the magnets are oriented properly to attract,

not repel each other.

■ Step 118 - Hatch Assembly (H8)

Locate H8 from LP4. This is glued across the top of the fuselage,

creating a lip for the hatch to "catch" on.

Note that this piece is tapered slightly. This is to account for the

slant that the ﬁrewall has because of the built-in right-thrust.

Slightly

bevel this

edge only

Slightly

bevel similar

to this.

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We'd advise putting the hatch in place,

then test ﬁt H8. It's etched circle should be

on the starboard side, but it will also be on

the underside, so it's doesn't show. It aligns

nicely with the hatch and covers up the

leading edge of the ﬁrewall. The apply glue

and glue it to the fuselage. Make sure it's

properly glued, as it's the only thing holding the front of the hatch.

■ Step 119 - Fuselage Assembly (LG2)

Flip the fuselage on to its top it's top so

you can now install the LG2 assembly

into the bottom of the fuselage.

Test ﬁt this ﬁrst and sand things as

necessary to get a good ﬁt. Then mix

up some epoxy and glue LG2 in place,

making sure it is fully pushed into the

fuselage sides.

■ Step 120 - Fuselage Assembly (LG1)

Locate LG1 from LP1. This is glued

to the exposed surface of LG2. Make

sure it's properly aligned and that

none of the glue drips into the holes

in LG2.

■ Step 121 - Fuselage Assembly (bottom fuselage sheeting.)

Grab some of the unused 3/32"

sheeting, like you used when sheeting

the fuselage.

You'll need to cut a piece that is the

width of the fuselage, but only 1-3/8"

deep. It will be glued to the bottom of

the fuselage, as a part of the sheeting

- up against the back of LG1.

IF, AND ONLY IF - you are going to use glow power for your

GHOST, you'll need to make this assembly -

the throttle servo mount.

If going electric, sounds good - skip to step 125.

■ Step 122 - Fuselage Assembly (throttle servo mount)

Locate six of the many "h" shaped

pieces scattered around LP1, LP2 and

LP4. Also two of the small rectangles

and grab the SHG that you used

when making the elevator and rudder

servo mounts. (There's another one in either LP1 or LP2.)

Put three of the “h” shaped rails into the SHG, like you did for the

other servo mounts. Just make sure you don't glue the rails to the

SHG. Make two rails.

■ Step 123 - Fuselage Assembly (throttle servo mount)

Locate F3C from LP2 and your throttle servo. Push in one of the

rails ﬁrst, then use your servo to gauge where the other rail should

be placed. Mark this F3C, then remove the rails, apply glue to

them and then ﬁx them in place permanently.

Also glue a small rectangle on top of each rail, as we've shown

here.

■ Step 124 - Fuselage Assembly (throttle servo mount)

Now you can drill and attach the servo to

the mount, using the servo's mounting

screws.

Do a little planning here - depending

on the engine you're using, the carb

arm might be on the port or starboard side. Typically it's on the

starboard side, but double check.

So, make sure to mount the servo so the

servo arm will be on the same side of the

fuselage as the engines' carb arm.

■ Step 125 - Fuse Assembly (bottom fuselage sheeting)

Now you might notice that you have a

large hole on the bottom of the fuselage.

This is on purpose, as our Fun Fly Bay

Accessory Kits (available separately) will

bolt up into this area - into the CG8/9

rails that are already in place.

If you have one of those kits, great. Leave

this area open.

If you don't have one of those kits and

never plan on buying/installing one, no

problem. Cover over this area by cutting

the remaining 3/32" x 4" x 12" sheeting

to cover this area, and glue the sheets

into place.

If you don't have one of those kits yet but

want to possibly add one later, than do this. You'll still use the remaining

3/32" x 4" x 12" sheeting to cover this area, but don't glue it in place. Just

tape it in position for now.

■ Step 126 - Fuse Assembly (powerplant mounting)

Mounting your powerplant is a fairly straight-forward thing - drill 4

holes and bolt it in place. However, you need to take a little time to

get the powerplant in the right spot.

For electrics with a typical "X" mount, the lines

on EF1 should be all you need. Center up the

mount so the etched lines show through four

mounting holes in the "X" plate and that

should center everything on the center

hole. Then mark the holes to be drilled

on to the ﬁrewall with a pencil.

For glow engines, the lines on F1 may or

may not line up with whatever mount you

have purchased, as different manufacturers do things differently.

These lines are centered on 45° angles around the center hole.

The engine should mount upright so plan this out before drilling

any holes.

When positioning the mount, you should end up with the engine

and mount centered over the hole, with the

engine's crankshaft center directly over the hole.

When you have it in the right spot, use a pencil

to trace the holes to be drilled on to the ﬁrewall.

R1S

R1P

W2 W2

W1SW1S

EF1

SH1

SH2 SH2 SH2 SH2

SH2

SH2 SH2 SH2 SH2

SH2SH2

SH2 SH2

SH2

SH1SH1 SH1

WH6

F3B

WH4

WH7

CG9

WH2

F4A

F4C

F4B

F2 EF2

W1PW1P W2

F3A H8

CG8 CG8 CG9 CG9

TR1

Construction Manual www.oldschoolmodels.com Page 19

What you see in our prototype is an

ASP .46 mounted to a Dave Brown

Products engine mount (now available

from Ohio Superstar as of the time this

manual was written). Other mounts will

work just as well - use what's best for

you.

Regardless of electric or glow, now

you can drill out the mounting holes,

typically for 6/32 sized bolts (not included). Usually that's a 5/32

size drill. Also typically you'd attach matching size t-nuts (not

included) to the rear of the ﬁrewall.

IF, AND ONLY IF - you are going to use glow power for your

GHOST, you'll probably need to do this next step.

If going electric, sounds good - skip to step 128.

■ Step 127 - Fuselage Assembly (carb / mufﬂer relief)

If you're using a 2-stroke glow engine, there's a pretty good chance

that you'll need to make a couple

of relief cuts so the mufﬂer and

parts of the carburetor will clear

the side of the fuselage.

There's no real magic trick here -

just good ol' trial and error. Just

remember not to remove too

much too soon.

■ Step 128 - Fuse Assembly (bottom fuselage sheeting)

Now bring your attention to the one last open area on the bottom of the

fuselage - the area underneath the tray.

You could modify this area to be a removable hatch, but we didn't see that

as needed. Typically, anything that you'd put in the area will probably not

need to be touched by hands once properly installed.

If going glow, you could put the ﬂight pack battery in this area to help with

the balance. (But we put our battery above the tray, in with the tank.) This

is your call.

If going electric, the ESC

would be here.

Regardless of what may

go in this area, it needs

to be fastened securely.

We use hook and loop

tape to do this.

(You know - that plastic

stuff that has hooks on

one part of it, and loops on the other part - we really can't use the name

here without paying some big bucks....)

We also use longer pieces of this to hold the battery in place. As a general

practice, we thread this through the holes on either side of the tray ﬂoor,

then glue it to the bottom of the ﬂoor so it' won't pull out.

So once you mounted whatever you'd like to mount in this space, cover

this area with more of the 3/32" x 4" balsa sheeting. And make sure it's still

cross grained. It should run from the front of the LG block, to just covering

up the bottom of the ﬁrewall.

IF, AND ONLY IF - you are going to use electric power for

your GHOST, you'll need to do this next step.

If going glow, sounds good - skip to step 130.

■ Step 129 - Electric air exits

Mark and cut two or three 1/2"

holes on the bottom of the

fuselage, between F5 and F6.

Mark them down the centerline

of the fuselage, spaced apart,

something like the example we

have here.

The size and spacing isn't

critical, but what is critical is to

have holes like these so the hot

air from the batteries and ESC can exit the fuselage.

■ Step 130 - Sanding

Remove the powerplant from the frame because now is the time

to get quite familiar with the sanding tools of your choice. Take the

time to perform a good sanding, rounding the wing’s leading edge

and blending it into the wingtips. Go over the entire wing, making

sure the sheeting is smooth and the trailing edges are blended

into the ribs, continuing the curvature of the wing. Pound out the

extra time on those leading edges, using the L.E. JIG template we

provided - to make sure they are smooth and perfect works of art

along their entire lengths.

Smooth out the edges of the fuselage. Because of the 3/32”

sheeting and the 3/16" balsa support installed around the fuselage’s

perimeter, you can be a little more aggressive in rounding the

corners if you'd like.

Round the leading edge of the stab as well as the trailing edges of

the elevator and rudder (from BP18). When rounding the leading

edge of the vertical ﬁn, blend it into the top of the fuselage.

Sand bevels into the leading edge of both elevator halves, the

rudder, and the ailerons. And speaking of the ailerons, round off

the back outer corners with a nice radius.

The idea is to spend some time caressing this awesome airframe

you've created so what you end up with will be a thing of beauty

- something that looks pretty darn close to this (but without the

landing gear which I haven't told you how to install yet.)

■ Step 131 - Aileron Hatches (mounting beams)

Locate twelve of the "L" shaped pieces from LP8, as well as

four small rectangles. Also locate one of the SHG jigs you used

previously.

Just as before you'll use the SHG to make four mounting beams

for the aileron servos.

Page 20 www.oldschoolmodels.com Construction Manual

www.oldschoolmodels.com Construction Manual

■ Step 132 - Aileron Hatches (mounting beams)

Now locate two of the SH1s from LP7, and your aileron servos.

Position your aileron servo on the inside of the aileron hatch so the

servo arm output shaft is centered in the opening.

On the inside of each aileron hatch, glue two of the servo mounting

beams you just created on each side of the servo as shown in the

photo.

Note that the left hatch is

a mirror image of the right

hatch.

Once the glue has cured,

drill the beams and then

mount the servos using the

servo's hardware.

■ Step 133 - Aileron Hatches (drill mounting holes)

Now ﬁt the servo hatches into position on the bottom of the wing,

into the openings for the ailerons. Using SH1's pre-cut holes as a

guide, drill four 1/16” mounting holes into the plywood beams

you installed when building the wing. Harden the wood around the

holes with a bit of thin CA. No need to mount them at this point.

■ Step 134 - Flaps (FL1, FL3)

Locate both FL1s and both FL3s

from BP10. You'll glue FL1 to FL3 as

shown here. Note the orientation of

the cutout in FL1, as this is important.

Make two of these.

Also, the FL3 you glued in this step will now be referred to as the

ﬂap's leading edge over the next few steps.

■ Step 135 - Flaps (FL2)

Locate both FL2s in BP10. You'll glue

FL2 to FL1 and FL3 as shown here.

Make two of these.

■ Step 136 - Flaps (FL3)

Locate the other two FL3s from

BP10. You'll glue this trailing edge

to FL1 and FL2 as shown here. Make

two of these.

■ Step 137 - Flaps (FL4)

Locate the two FL4s from LP9. Note

the etching on one side that goes

over the hole pre-cut into FL1. When

aligned properly, you should be able

to see the etched rectangle inside the hole, and

the arrow pointing to towards the leading edge.

Glue these in place, the same orientation for each

ﬂap.

■ Step 138 - Flaps (hinges)

Locate the CA hinges. Trim a couple of these so they're still 1"

long, but roughly a 1/4" wide. You'll need 6 lengths total.

■ Step 139 - Flaps (hinges)

Now ﬂip each of the ﬂaps over so the FL4 is facing down, and the

leading edge is facing you - similar to this photo.

You'll make three marks along the leading edge where the hinges

are glued - one in the center, the

outer two roughly a 1/2" in from

each edge.

Using medium CA (not thin),

glue the ﬁrst third of each hinge

to the leading edge of each ﬂap,

centered on the marks you just

made.

Make sure the hinges are straight and also make double-sure that

you are creating two identical ﬂaps - NOT mirror images this time.

■ Step 140 - Fuselage (fuel prooﬁng)

If you're using a glow engine to power

your GHOST, it is strongly recommended

that you fuel proof the inside of the

battery compartment. Fuel has a nasty

way of penetrating wood, causing it to

disintegrate over time. We use clear

polyurethane, but you could also use

dope, or other similar paints.

BTW, the fuel-prooﬁng doesn't have to

be clear, but that's just our preference - maybe something in a hot-

pink or ﬂuorescent purple?

Spray (or brush) on this coating, remembering to also coat the

underside of the hatch and the powerplant compartment (ﬁrewalls

and inside of the fuselage cheeks.

This completes assembly of the GHOST airframe.

These next few steps can be done in most any order, but it's

probably advisable that you do the covering ﬁrst.

Whether you're hinging,

mounting, gluing, sanding,

soldering or installing,

chances are we've got a

video tip to make the task

easier.

OSMW has created a series

of videos to help you not

only build your aircraft, but build

it better. These Bright Idea videos

can come in handy for some of the

following steps.

Check them out today - they're

FREE and we're adding to them all

the time!

Visit oldschoolmodels.com/tips.htm

or scan this QR code.

■ Covering

Now it is time to cover the GHOST. Remove the power-plant and

any other components that would get in the way when applying

the covering.

Double check that all surfaces are smooth and ready to cover. Sand

as necessary, then cover the entire airframe with the covering/ﬁnish

of your choice.

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