Old School Model Works Wedell-Williams Trophy Racer Instructions for use

CONSTRUCTION
MANUAL
www.oldschoolmodels.com
Using the Manual
Be sure to read each step thoroughly before you start
the step. Test-fit the parts together to make sure they
fit properly. If necessary trim to fit.
Beside each step you will notice a check box (or two).
These are so you can keep track of your progress
while building your kit. For steps that have two boxes,
as in the construction of the left and right wing halves,
these steps must be performed two times.
• Your Old School Model Works aircraft should not be
considered a toy, but rather a sophisticated, working
model that functions very much like a full-size airplane.
Because of its performance capabilities, this model, if not
assembled and operated correctly, could possibly cause
injury to yourself or spectators, and damage to property.
• You must assemble this model according to the
instructions. Do not alter or modify this model, as doing
so may result in an unsafe or un-flyable model. In a few
cases the instructions may differ slightly from the photos.
In those instances the written instructions should be
considered as correct.
• You must take time to build straight, true and strong.
• You must use a R/C radio system that is in first-
class condition, a correctly sized power system and
components (electronics, batteries, wheels, etc.)
throughout the building process.
• You must correctly install all R/C and other components
so that the model operates correctly on the ground
and in the air. (Installation shown in the manual is a
suggestion. You may have to adjust the mounting steps
to accommodate the size of your radio equipment.)
• You must check the operation of the model before every
flight to insure that all equipment is operating and that
the model has remained structurally sound. Be sure to
check clevises or other connectors often and replace
them if they show any signs of wear or fatigue.
• If you are not an experienced pilot or have not flown this
type of model before, we recommend that you get the
assistance of an experienced pilot in your R/C club for
your first flights. If you’re not a member of a club, your
local hobby shop has information about clubs in your
area whose membership includes experienced pilots.
• While this kit has been flight tested to exceed normal
use, if this model will be used for extremely high stress
flying, such as racing, or if a power system larger than
one in the recommended range is used, the modeler is
responsible for taking steps to reinforce the high stress
points and/or substituting hardware more suitable for the
increased stress.
Remember: Take your time and follow
the instructions to end up with a well-
built model that is straight and true.
Wedell-Williams Prototype
Specifications:
• Wingspan: 44 in. • Wing Area: 560 sq in.
• Airframe Length: 34.75 in.
• Weight: airframe only: 2.25 lbs.
ready-to-fly - 3.75-4.5 lbs.

Page 2 www.oldschoolmodels.com Construction Manual
WARNING
READ THROUGH THIS MANUAL
BEFORE STARTING CONSTRUCTION.
IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT WARNINGS
AND INSTRUCTIONS CONCERNING
THE CONSTRUCTION AND USE OF THIS
MODEL.
A Radio-Controlled aircraft is not a toy!
If misused, it can cause serious bodily harm
and damage to property. Fly only in open
areas, preferably at AMA (Academy of Model
Aeronautics) approved flying sites, following all
instructions included with your radio, powerplant,
electronics and batteries.
We urge you to join the AMA (Academy of Model Aeronautics) and
a local R/C club. The AMA is the governing body of model aviation
and membership is required to fly at AMA clubs.
Though joining the AMA provides many benefits, one of the
primary reasons to join is liability protection.
Additionally, training programs and instructors are available at
AMA club sites to help you get started the right way. There are
over 2,500 AMA chartered clubs across the country. Contact the
AMA at the address or toll-free phone number below:
Academy of Model Aeronautics
5161 East Memorial Drive • Muncie, IN 47302
Phone [phone] • www.modelaircraft.org
IMPORTANT!!! Two of the most important things you
can do to preserve the radio controlled aircraft hobby are to avoid
flying near full-scale aircraft and avoid flying near or over groups
of people.
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including lead, which
is known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other
reproductive harm. For more information go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
INCLUDED ITEMS
Wood parts included in this kit:
• 1 - LP1 - Laser Cut 1/8” x 5” x 24” sheet
• 1 - LP2 - Laser Cut 1/8” x 5” x 24” sheet
• 2 - LP3 - Laser Cut 1/8” x 5” x 24” sheet
• 2 - LP4 - Laser Cut 1/8” x 5” x 24” sheet
• 2 - BP1 - Laser Cut 1/8” x 4” x 24” balsa
• 4 - BP2 - Laser Cut 1/8” x 4” x 24” balsa
• 3 - BP3 - Laser Cut 1/8” x 4” x 24” balsa
• 1 - BP4 - Laser Cut 1/8” x 4” x 24” balsa
• 2 - BP5 - Laser Cut 1/8” x 4” x 24” balsa
• 2 - BP6 - Laser Cut 1/8” x 4” x 15” balsa
• 2 - BP7 - Laser Cut 1/8” x 4” x 15” balsa
• 1 - BP8 - Laser Cut 1/4” x 4” x 11” balsa
• 1 - BP9 - Laser Cut 1/4” x 4” x 10” balsa
• 1 - BP10 - Laser Cut 1/4” x 4” x 11” balsa
• 1 - BP11 - Laser Cut 1/4” x 4” x 10” balsa
• 1 - BP12 - Laser Cut 1/4” x 4” x 10” balsa
• 1 - BP13 - Laser Cut 1/4” x 4” x 10” balsa
• 1 - BP14 - Laser Cut 1/4” x 4” x 10” balsa
• 1 - BP15 - Laser Cut 1/4” x 4” x 10” balsa
• 2 - BP16* - Laser Cut 1/4” x 4” x 11” balsa
• 4 - BP17* - Laser Cut 1/4” x 4” x 11” balsa
*some Trophy Racers do not include these wheelpant sheets.
• 2 - BP18 - Laser Cut 1/16” x 4” x 24” balsa
• 4 - BP19 - Laser Cut 1/16” x 4” x 24” sheet
• 4 - BP20 - Laser Cut 1/16” x 4” x 24” balsa
• 2 - BP21 - Laser Cut 1/16” x 4” x 24” balsa
• 4 - 1/16” x 4” x 24” balsa sheets
• 2 - 1/4” x 1” x 36” balsa strips
• 2 - 1/4” x 1/2” x 36” balsa strips
• 4 - 5/16” x 1/2” x 36” balsa strips
• 4 - 1/4” x 1/4” x 36” balsa strips
• 2 - 3/16” x 3/16” x 36” balsa strips
• 3 - 3/16” x 3/8” x 36” basswood
Hardware parts included in this kit:
• 1 - Pre-bent landing gear (port)
• 1 - Pre-bent landing gear (starboard)
• 2 - axle shafts w/ matching locknuts
• C/A type hinges for control surfaces
• 4 - control horns
• 4 - wheel collars 5/32” I.D.
• 14 - 2-56 x 3/4” self-tapping screws
• 3 - 4-40 x 1-1/2” bolts and matching lock nuts
• #4 washers
• 1 - 1/4”x 6” wooden dowel.
Other items included in this kit:
• 2 - Rolled plans (fuselage and wing)
• 1 - Construction Manual
• Sticker Sheet
ITEMS NEEDED
Hardware needed (not included in the kit)
For some of these items there is more than one option which will
require a bit of decision making ahead of time. There isn’t a right or
a wrong choice, so choose the items that work best for you.
Our power recommendation is a .40-.45 two-stroke or an electric
motor with similar power output, such as the E-Flite 15BL 1050kv
motor, 40 amp ESC (minimum), and 4s 2400mAh lipo.
Here is a list of additional parts needed to complete and fly this
kit, all of which must be purchased separately. Again, we would
recommended supporting your local hobby shop.
• Propeller
• Engine/Motor mount and mounting hardware
• Receiver - (4 channel minimum)
• 4 standard size servos
• 1 9-12” extension for the starboard aileron servo.
• Pushrods (two 5” for ailerons, two 24” for elevator & rudder,

Construction Manual www.oldschoolmodels.com Page 3
one 12” for throttle if glow powered)
• 8 clevises for the pushrods
• 2 - 3” diameter wheels
• 1 - tailwheel assembly
• Covering
• If a glow engine is used:
6-8 ounce tank and fuel tubing
1 mini servo for throttle control
Throttle pushrod with clevises.
Additional Required Building Tools and Adhesives
• Drill & assorted drill bits
• Hobby knife and new, sharp blades
• Sandpaper: coarse (80 or 100 grit) & medium (150-200 grit)
• Pencil or pen
• Long metal straightedge - 12” minimum.
• T-Pins
• Waxed paper
• Building board
• 30 minute epoxy (brushes and mixing sticks)
• Adhesives of your choice. We recommend thin and medium
CA (cyanoacrylate) viscosities
• Threadlocking compound
Before Starting Assembly
Closely inspect the supplied laser cut parts for damage. If you find
any damaged or missing parts, contact us immediately.
When removing the laser cut parts from their sheets, you’ll notice
the parts are held in place by several small “tabs”. These tabs
are uncut pieces of wood and can sometimes make it difficult to
remove a part. Rather than breaking and/or splintering the wood
by forcing out the part, we recommend removing any laser cut
parts from their sheets by using a hobby knife with a new, sharp
blade. A quick cut of the tab will allow the piece to be removed
with no damage. Sand any tab remainders flush with the part so
there will be no problem aligning them later.
It’s best to not remove parts from their sheets until they are needed.
Refer to Appendix A of this manual as a reference to what all the
laser cut parts look like and are called.
For each step, we highly recommend that you dry fit the parts in
each step first. Lightly sand as needed to ensure a good fit. Once
you’re satisfied with the fit, then and only then, glue the parts in
position.
Closely inspect the supplied laser cut parts for damage. If you find
any damaged or missing parts, contact us immediately.
IT IS VERY IMPORTANT THAT YOU ASSEMBLE THIS KIT
IN THE ORDER DESCRIBED. SKIPPING FORWARD IN
THE STEPS COULD LEAVE YOU WITHOUT THE PROPER
LENGTHS OF WOOD TO FINISH THE KIT.
WE’VE INCLUDED ENOUGH WOOD TO EASILY COMPLETE
THIS KIT, BUT YOU MUST TAKE CARE TO PROPERLY
MEASURE AND NOT WASTE WOOD WHEN CUTTING.
Let’s begin construction by working on the right (starboard)
wing of your Trophy Racer
Prepare your work area
You’ll need a flat building
surface that is a minimum
of 36” long. Position the
starboard wing plan over
the surface and tape into
position. Tear off a length of
waxed paper long enough
to cover the wing plan and
tape that into position, over the plan.
Step 1 - Alignment triangles
Pre-cut into LP1 are two triangles,
one inside the other. These can be
used to vertically align any of the
parts in the construction of your
Trophy Racer. LP1 also includes two
foot pieces that can be used with
the triangles to hold both triangles vertical hands-free.
We recommend using the smaller triangle in the wing construction
as it’s small enough to fit between the ribs.
Step 2 - Wing Assembly (lower spar)
The lower spar is cut from one
of the 3/16 x 3/8” basswood
strips. Position over the plan,
measure the length and cut. The
remainder of this piece will be
used for the upper spar, so set it
aside so it’s not used for anything
else.
Attach the spar over the plans, using a couple small drops of
medium CA instead of t-pins. Be sure it is aligned properly and is
straight over it’s entire length. The alignment of this spar is critical
as the rest of the wing panel is based off this single piece.
Step 3 - Wing Assembly (R1)
Locate one R1 rib from BP5.
Position R1 so it is absolutely vertical
and perfectly aligned with the plans.
This rib is key to the alignment of
the wing and fuselage later on, so
make sure it’s spot on before gluing
in position.
Online Supplementary Photos
We realize that the smaller black-and-
white photos in this manual might not
show some of the steps as clearly as
you might want. So we’ve anticipated
this and made these photos available
on our website. You can either scan the
QR code or type this address into your
browser:
www.oldschoolmodels.com/mpics/tracer

Page 4 www.oldschoolmodels.com Construction Manual
Step 4 - Wing Assembly (WB2 & WB2A)
Locate one WB2 and one WB2A
sheer web from BP20.
Note that these have a small
circle engraved on one side.
This designates the side that
should be inserted into R1.
Place these in position so the
tabs in WB2 fit all the way into
R1 (WB2 in front, WB2A in back.
When satisfied with the fit and
location, glue these pieces in place. Make sure that the WB2’s are
glued to the spar as well as R1.
Step 5 - Wing Assembly (R2)
Locate R2 from BP5 and two
WB3 sheer webs. R2 fits into
place as shown here, notching
into WB2 tabs.
The WB3 pieces are installed
next and when satisfied with
the fit and location, glue these
pieces in place.
Step 6 - Wing Assembly (R3)
Locate three R3s from BP3 and
four WB3 sheer webs. These
fit in place as shown, using the
same techniques you used in
attaching the R2 ribs.
When satisfied with the fit and
location, glue these pieces in
place.
Step 7 - Wing Assembly (R4)
Locate two R4s from BP2 and
four WB3 sheer webs. These
fit in place as shown, using the
same techniques you used in
attaching the other ribs.
When satisfied with the fit and
location, glue these pieces in
place.
Step 8 - Wing Assembly (R4 servo rails)
On the bottom of each R4 you’ll
see a pair of rectangular cutouts.
These are used to locate the
aileron servo mounting rails.
Locate a full length of 3/16 x 3/8”
basswood strip. This will be your
“scrap” piece that all mounts and
smaller pieces will be cut from.
Measure and cut two lengths
of the basswood (roughly 2.5”
long). Slide these in position as shown, the glue in position when
satisfied with the alignment.
Step 9 - Wing Assembly (R5)
Locate R5 from BP4 and fit it
in place as shown, using the
same techniques you used in
attaching the other ribs.
When satisfied with the fit and
location, glue R5 in place.
Step 10 - Wing Assembly (W4)
Locate two WB4 sheer webs from BP18.
Note that the WB4s have a small circle
engraved on one side. This designates
the side that should face the wing tip,
glued to R6 in a later step.
Place these in position as shown and
when satisfied with the fit and location,
glue these pieces in place
Step 11 - Wing Assembly (WT1)
Locate one WT1, one R6 from
BP1, and one T3 from BP5.
These three pieces interlock as
shown, first sliding the T3 into
the rear slot in WT1, then that
assembly slots into the center
of R6. When satisfied with the
fit, glue these pieces together.
Step 12 - Wing Assembly (T2)
Locate two T2s from BP2. These are
positioned in the slots toward the front
of WT1. One goes on each side as shown
here. When satisfied with the fit, glue
these pieces together.
Step 13 - Wing Assembly (R7A, R7B, R7C)
Locate one R7A, R7B and R7C from BP1. These fit into the slot
in WT1 as shown. Note that
there are two sets of slots, and
when installed as shown here,
they will automatically align
with the correct slots. When
satisfied with the fit, glue
these pieces in place, making sure the R7 pieces are 90° to the
surface of WT1.
Step 14 - Wing Assembly (R7D, R7E, R7F)
Locate one R7D, R7E and
R7F from BP1. These fit on
the underside slots of WT1
as shown. When satisfied with
the fit, glue these pieces in
place, making sure the R7
pieces are 90° to the surface
of WT1.

Construction Manual www.oldschoolmodels.com Page 5
Step 15 - Wing Assembly (attach R6)
Fit the R6 assembly in
position. Make sure it is
vertical and the WB4 tabs are
properly inserted in the slots
of R6. When satisfied with
the fit and location, glue R6
in place.
Step 16 - Wing Assembly (trailing edge)
Remove one of the 1/4” x
1”x 36” balsa sticks. This will
form the trailing edge of the
wing. Measure and cut to
length.
This piece will slide into the
rear notches of all the ribs, as
shown here. When satisfied
with the fit and location, glue
to all of the ribs. Be careful to keep glue out larger gap cut into
ribs R4-R6.
Step 17 - Wing Assembly (aileron leading edge)
Using the remainder of the
1/4” x 1” x 36” balsa stick
from the previous step,
measure and cut to form the
leading edge of the aileron.
This piece will slide into the
remaining rear notches of the
R4, R5 and R6 ribs, as shown
here.
When satisfied with the fit and location, glue to all of the ribs - but
not to the trailing edge of the wing.
Step 18 - Wing Assembly (WT2)
Locate WT2 from BP1. The
tabs in this piece fit into the
slots on the rear of R6 as
shown here.
When satisfied with the fit
and location, glue it in place.
Step 19 - Wing Assembly (upper front sub-spar)
Locate one of the
3/16” square balsa
sticks. Measure and
cut to make the upper
front sub-spar. When
satisfied with the fit
and location, glue to
all of the ribs.
Step 20 - Wing Assembly (trailing edge sheeting)
Now locate one of the 1/16” x 4” x 24” balsa sheets. Measure and
cut a 3/4” strip the entire length of the piece to form the trailing
edge sheeting.
It fits in place as shown,
butting up against the
trailing edge balsa
strip.
When satisfied with the
fit and location, glue to
all of the ribs and the
trailing edge.
Step 21 - Wing Assembly (leading edge)
Now locate two of the 5/16” x 1/2”
x 36” balsa sticks. These are glued
together to form the leading edge of
the wing. As all stick balsa typically has
a slight warp (bend) to it, use a straight-
edge (a metal yardstick is shown here)
as an edge to press the pieces against
when gluing.
Note that the 5/16” edges should be
glued together to give you a 5/16” x
1” strip when finished.
Step 22 - Wing Assembly (leading edge)
The leading edge strip from the
previous step is now measured,
cut and glued into position as
shown here.
Step 23 - Wing Assembly (WB1)
Locate one WB1 from LP4. It is installed
a shown here, with the tab fitting into the
slot of the R2 rib. When satisfied with the
fit and location, glue in place.
Step 24 - Wing Assembly (TR1 / TR2)
Locate either one TR1 or one
TR2 from the LP1/2 sheets.
The one you choose will
depend on the powerplant
you will be using - specifically,
the weight of that powerplant.
For 99% of you, the longer
TR2 is the one to choose as it
will allow you to mount your
engine/motor further forward
- giving you better C.G. balance. If your motor is particularly heavy
say a larger 4-stroke, you might opt for the shorter TR1 piece.
Regardless of the one you choose, this piece is installed into the
open area between the R1 and R2 ribs as shown. Note that you will
need to also notch the leading edge strip installed in the previous
step to allow the TR1/2 piece to lie flat and true.

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Step 25 - Wing Assembly (cutting R1 & R2)
Carefully cut away the center of the R1
and R2 ribs, leaving a box as shown
in the photo. Carefully sand the inside
of the box so the edges are smooth
and flush. This forms three sides of the
dihedral box and needs to be smooth
and free from edges so the dihedral
braces will slide in smoothly when
joining the wing halves later.
Step 26 - Wing Assembly (cut upper spar)
Lightly sand the edges of the bottom
face of the spar as shown in the drawing
to the right. This will help the spar slide
in easier.
This next part takes a bit of time, so we
recommend against using an instant
setting glue. If you
are using CA, use a
thicker formulation
that gives you a bit
of working time.
Locate the extra
length of 3/16” x
3/8” basswood strip
you marked as the
upper spar.
Apply glue to the top of the ribs where they will contact this spar.
Working from the tip rib (R6), carefully press the upper spar into
position. This will be a tight fit and might require “wiggling” the
spar from side to side to slip in-between the sheer webs. Be sure to
press the spar completely into the slot in each rib, making it flush
with the sheer webs.
Now wick thin C/A along the spar to sheer web joints (front and
back) along the entire length of the spar
When fitting the upper spar to make the top of the dihedral box,
be careful not to drip excess glue into the box formed between
R2 and R1.
Step 27 - Wing Assembly (leading edge sheeting)
Locate the remainder of
the 1/16” x 4” x 24” sheet
you trimmed back on step
21. This will be used as the
upper leading edge sheeting.
Measure and cut to length.
Rather than attempting to
wrap and install this entire
piece at one time, glue the
leading edge sheeting in
place as shown here.
To aid in making sure the
entire length is properly
held in place, use the same
straight-edge from back in
step 20 to push down along
the entire edge of sheeting until the glue has cured.
Step 28 - Wing Assembly (leading edge sheeting)
Once the glue has cured from the
previous step, then you can carefully
start to wrap the leading edge sheeting
to the ribs. Make sure that the sheeting
is glued to the surface of each rib, the
front sub-spar and the top main spar.
Sometimes it helps to add a few
weights to the rear of the wing to hold
in place while bending the sheeting.
Step 29 - Wing Assembly (center sheeting)
The ends of BP18 and
BP19 have extra 1/16”
sheeting that are used for
this step. Measure and cut
a few pieces to form the
center sheeting between
the R1 and R2 ribs. The
sheeting should be flush
with the R1 rib, but overlap
R2 by a 1/16” or so. Note the grain direction also. You’ll have to
piece this together from a couple of pieces and take your time to
ensure a proper fit.
When satisfied with the fit, glue pieces in place as shown.
Step 30 - Wing Assembly (cap strips)
Many of the 1/16” laser
cut sheets have 1/4”
wide cap stripping pre-
cut into them. Use a few
lengths of this to make
the cap strips for the top
of the wing.
Cap strips are centered
over each of the R2-
R5 ribs. The cap strip is flush with the edge of the R6 rib, resting
against the T1 and T2 pieces already glued as part of the wing tip
assembly.
Each cap strip runs from the back of the leading edge sheeting to
the front edge of the trailing edge sheeting.
Step 31 - Wing Assembly (aileron top sheeting)
Locate one AS from
BP19. This is the top
aileron sheeting.
Note the position as the
shorter cutout is located
in between the R4 ribs
and towards the rear of
the wing.
When satisfied with the positioning, glue it in place, making sure it
is glued to each of the R4, R5 and R6 ribs and to the leading edge
of the aileron.
Step 32 - Wing Assembly (rear wing sheeting)
Locate one TS from BP19. This is the sheeting for the back edge of
the wing. Glue it in place on the back of each of the R1, R2 and R3
ribs, as well as the trailing edge of the wing.
Lightly
sand here.
Lightly
sand here.

Construction Manual www.oldschoolmodels.com Page 7
Step 33 - Wing Assembly (R3A)
Carefully remove the wing
half from the board and
flip it over. Locate one R3A
from sheet BP5 and a small
piece of left-over 1/8”
balsa sheeting.
This sheeting is used as a
spacer to position R3A in
place as shown here. Be
careful not to glue the 1/8” sheeting in place when you glue R3A
in position.
Step 34 - Wing Assembly (removing alignment feet)
Now take a bit of time
to cut away all of the
alignment feet that are on
each rib. Make sure when
cutting/sanding them, that
you remove just enough so
that each rib has a smooth,
airfoil shape.
The rear tip of each rib
should be brought to a point, as shown here.
Also, both ailerons should be able to be separated from the wing
at this point. Once the feet are removed they should fall away.
Step 35 - Wing Assembly (aileron bottom sheeting)
Locate one AS from BP19.
This is for the bottom
aileron sheeting.
Note the position as the
shorter cutout is located
in between the R4 ribs and
towards the rear of the
wing.
When satisfied with the
positioning, glue it in place, making sure it is glued to each of the
R4, R5 and R6 ribs, to the leading edge of the aileron, and to the
top sheeting along the trailing edge.
Step 36 - Wing Assembly (rear wing sheeting)
Locate one TS from BP19.
This is the sheeting for the
back edge of the wing. When
satisfied with the positioning,
glue it in place on the back of
each of the R1, R2 and R3 ribs,
as well as the trailing edge of
the wing.
Step 37 - Wing Assembly (lower front sub-spar)
Locate the leftover 3/16” square
balsa stick you cut back on step
19. Measure and cut to make
the lower front sub-spar. When
satisfied with the fit and location,
glue to all of the ribs.
Step 38 - Wing Assembly (servo rails)
Way back in step 8, you
put a piece of 3/16” x 3/8”
basswood aside as “scrap”.
Locate that piece and cut
two servo mounting rails.
These will span the distance
between R1 and R2. Glue
these in position as shown.
One note here: When doing
this for second time (making the port wing), extend these two
pieces to butt up against R3. The extended length will also act as
the rails to mount the radio hatch cover.
Step 39 - Wing Assembly (trailing edge sheeting)
Now locate another of
the 1/16” x 4” x 24”
balsa sheets. Measure
and cut a 3/4” strip the
entire length of the piece
to form the trailing edge
sheeting.
It fits in place as shown,
butting up against the
trailing edge balsa strip.
When satisfied with the fit and location, glue to all of the ribs and
trailing edge.
Step 40 - Wing Assembly (leading edge sheeting)
Using the rest of the
1/16” x 4” sheeting you
just cut, it’s time to sheet
the bottom leading edge.
Just as you did in steps
27 & 28, glue the front
edge in place first, then
work your way backwards.
Again, make sure the
sheeting is glued to each rib and the spars.
Step 41 - Wing Assembly (servo mount)
Locate one SH1 and one SH1D from
sheet LP4. These two pieces are
glued together as shown to make
the servo mount.
Note that we positioned the etching
so it won’t be visible from the
outside when it’s glued in place on
the next step.
Step 42 - Wing Assembly (servo mount)
Using the SH1 assembly from the
last step, glue it in position as shown
here on the two rails between R1
and R2.

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Step 43 - Wing Assembly (center sheeting)
Just as you did in
step 29, it’s time
to use some of the
scrap 1/16” sheeting
from the BP pieces
to make the center
sheeting. You’ll also
have to cut a couple
of smaller strips to fill
the gap between the
edge of the servo mount and the edge of the R1 rib.
Step 44 - Wing Assembly (lower cap strips)
Now it’s time to install the
lower cap strips, using the
same technique as you did
when cutting and installing
the upper cap strips.
Again, these strips are pre-
cut in many of the 1/16”
laser cut sheets Use a few
lengths of this to make the
cap strips for the underside of the wing.
Cap strips are centered over each of the R2-R5 ribs. The cap strip
is flush with the edge of the R6 rib, resting against the T1 and T2
pieces already glued as part of the wing tip assembly.
Each cap strip runs from the back of the leading edge sheeting to
the front edge of the trailing edge sheeting.
Step 45 - Wing Assembly (aileron servo mount)
Locate one SH2 and one SH2D
from sheet LP3. These two
pieces are glued together as
shown to make the servo mount.
Note that we positioned the
etching so it won’t be visible
from the outside when it’s glued
in place on the next step.
Step 46 - Wing Assembly (aileron servo mount)
Locate the SH2 assembly from the
last step and glue it in position
as shown here, on the two rails
between the R4 ribs.
Step 47 - Wing Assembly (hinge reinforcement)
Locate the piece of leftover leading edge (two 5/16” x 1/2” pieces
glued together).
We recommend cutting smaller blocks to place inside the wing and
aileron as shown here. You’ll need
them glued in place where the
hinges are marked on the plans.
Doing this will give the hinges
and glue more surface for a better
bond later on.
Step 49 - Wing Assembly (tidying up radio hatch.)
Using a bit of 1/8” scrap from the
BP sheets, make two pieces to
“frame” the top and bottom of
the radio hatch opening. You’ll
need to notch them slightly so
they will be flush with the cap
strips.
The purpose of these 2 pieces is
to aid in covering later on - no real structural gain - just to make
things look better down the road.
Step 50 - Wing Assembly (port wing construction)
Set the starboard wing half aside and begin work on the left (port)
wing half. Tape the left wing plan and fresh wax paper on your
board. Then follow steps 1 through 49 to complete the left wing
half. Once finished, then move on to step 51.
Step 51 - Elevator Assembly
Tape the stabilizer/
elevator plan and
fresh wax paper on
your board.
Locate the two S4
pieces from BP9
and the two S3
pieces from BP15. These form the elevator halves as shown here.
Using your straight edge as shown will help align the two halves
perfectly to each other. Pin the S3 pieces in place first, then glue
the S4 pieces in place.
Step 52 - Elevator Assembly (elevator joiner)
Locate the 1/4” dowel
from the hardware bag.
Measure and cut the dowel
to form the joiner as shown
here. Glue this place with
thicker CA, or better yet,
a bit of epoxy. This joint
must be strong, so don’t try to get away with a little thin CA
to tack in in position.
Step 53 - Elevator Assembly (ribs)
Locate a 1/4” square balsa strip and
use it to cut the “ribs” that form the
interior of both elevator halves.
Glue these in position when
satisfied with the fit.
Step 54 - Elevator Assembly (sheeting)
Locate the four ELV SHEET pieces
from BP20. These are glued to the top
and bottom of the elevator halves.
Note the slight difference between
the inside and outside curves. Lightly
sand the elevator assembly then glue
on the sheeting.
When the glue has cured, remove the elevator and attach ELV
SHEET pieces to the other side after a light sanding.

Construction Manual www.oldschoolmodels.com Page 9
Step 55 - Stab Assembly
Locate the two S1
pieces from BP8 &
BP11, the two S2
pieces from BP15
and S5 from BP14.
These form the stab
halves as shown
here. Using your
straight edge as shown will help align the two halves perfectly to
each other. Pin the S2 pieces in place first, then glue S5 in place.
Finally, glue the S1 pieces in place.
Step 56 - Stab Assembly (ribs)
Using the same 1/4” square
balsa strip from step 53, cut the
“ribs” that form the interior of
both stab halves.
Glue these in position when
satisfied with the fit.
Step 57 - Stab Assembly (sheeting)
Locate the four STAB SHEET
pieces from BP18. These are
glued to the top and bottom
of the stab halves after a
light sanding of the stab
assembly. When the glue has
cured, remove the elevator
and attach remaining STAB
SHEET pieces to the other side after a light sanding.
Step 58 - Fuselage Assembly (F1-F5)
Tape the fuselage plan and fresh wax paper on your board.
Locate the F1 from BP12, F2 from BP10, F3 from BP14, F4 from
BP13, and F5 from BP15.
These pieces “jigsaw”
together to form the front of
the fuselage. Pin one piece
down first, then glue and
pin each additional piece in
place. Alignment is critical,
so be careful when doing this.
These next steps require 1/4” square balsa strip and this is
where you have to start thinking about cutting in the correct
order. Make the long cuts first, then work your way down to
the smaller sizes.
Step 59 - Fuselage Assembly (aft framing)
You should have some 1/4” square left from the piece used to
make the elevator/stab ribs. Using that piece first, its time to start
making some of the fuselage
framing.
First, measure, cut and and
glue in the vertical piece,
that runs from the bottom of
F5, along the back of F4 and
down to the bottom of the
fuselage. Then measure, cut and install the longerons that are in
the middle of the fuselage.
Finally, locate F6 from BP14 and install it place between the
longerons as shown on the plan.
Step 60 - Fuselage Assembly (vertical fin)
Locate F7 from BP8 and F8
from BP11. These form the
vertical fin. Fit and glue them
in position as shown.
Then cut the upper and
lower longerons from 1/4”
square balsa, installing them in position. You’ll need to bend these
pieces and hold those bends with several t-pins, similar to what’s
shown in the photo.
Step 61 - Fuselage Assembly (framing)
Now take the time to cut
the remaining framing
from leftover 1/4” square
balsa.
Once all the framing is in
place, double check that
you’ve securely glued each joint.
Step 62 - Fuselage Assembly (plywood sheeting.)
Remove any pins you may have
used in the front section of the
fuselage framing, but don’t remove
the frame from the building board.
Using 150 grit sand paper, lightly
sand the surface of the fuselage
framing to ensure it is smooth.
Locate FS1 from LP3 and FS2 from LP4. These will be the outer
sheet for the front of the fuselage. They are glued in position as
shown and you’ll need to use a fair amount of glue to cover this
area. If using C/A, a thicker viscosity is recommended to give you
working time.
Make sure not to allow glue into any of the cutout areas.
Note - you might want to weight this sheeting down while it is
curing to ensure a good bond to the inner framing.
Step 63 - Fuselage Assembly (weight hatches.)
Locate the two hatch pieces you punched out
from the FS1 and FS2 sheets that were just
glued in place. These will be used later so tape
them in position for now.
Step 64 - Fuselage Assembly (balsa sheeting.)
Locate FS3 from BP6 and
FS4 from BP7. These will
be the outer sheet for the
rear of the fuselage. They
are glued in position as
shown and you’ll need to
use a fair amount of glue
to cover this area. If using C/A, a thicker viscosity is recommended
to give you working time.

Page 10 www.oldschoolmodels.com Construction Manual
Step 65 - Fuselage Assembly (LG)
Remove the fuselage from your board and
flip it over. Lightly sand the starboard side.
Locate the two LG pieces from LP2.
These are glued in place to form the
internal landing gear support. Pay
attention to the orientation of the pre-cut
holes so they all line up.
Step 66 - Fuselage Assembly (firewall)
Locate F1 from LP1 and both
F2s from LP2. These pieces are
laminated together to form the
firewall. The two FP2 pieces are
glued together first, then FP1 is
glued on top as shown here.
Make sure these pieces are properly
aligned and we recommend using
epoxy for this step.
Step 67 - Fuselage Assembly (firewall installation)
Back when you were building
the wing, you made a choice as
to which TR piece you used (the
longer TR2 piece or the shorter
TR1 piece).
Depending on your choice, will
depend on which slot the firewall
is mounted in.
For most of you, the longer TR2
was used, meaning the firewall
should be installed in the front
slots. If TR1 was your choice, then
the firewall would go in the rear
slots.
Glue the firewall assembly in place
with the F2’s facing the front (F1
with the cutouts facing the tail).
Cut a couple of plugs from scrap
balsa to fill the slot you won’t be
using.
Step 68 - Fuselage Assembly (firewall installation)
Locate F2A from LP4. This
is glued to the back of the
firewall, and to the top of
the fuel/battery opening.
(Shown upside-down in this
photo.)
Epoxy is recommended
here for strength.
Step 69 - Fuselage Assembly (starboard sheeting)
Now it is time to install the starboard fuselage sheeting, just as
you did before. Locate FS1 from LP3 and FS2 from LP4. DO NOT
PUNCH OUT THE FORWARD HATCH CUTOUTS ON THESE
SHEETS. LEAVE THOSE IN.
Glue these plywood sheets in place, then locate FS3 from BP6 and
FS4 from BP7. Glue those in place.
Step 70 - Fuselage Assembly (vertical fin sheeting)
Locate the VF SHEET from
BP21. They are used to cover
the vertical fin. (Some kits
require 2 pieces to make
each VF SHEET.
Glue them in position on
each side of the vertical fin.
Step 71 - Fuselage Assembly (rudder)
Locate F9 from BP10 and F10 from BP11.
These are used to form the frame of the rudder.
Pin BP10 in place and glue BP11 to it.
Now using scrap 1/4” balsa strips, make the two
“rib” pieces and glue those in place.
Step 72 - Fuselage Assembly (rudder sheeting)
Lightly sand the rudder to make
sure the surface is level and
smooth. Now both RUD SHEET
pieces from BP21 Glue one in
place over the rudder as shown.
Once the glue has cured,
remove the rudder, lightly sand
the opposite side and glue on
the remaining RUD SHEET.
Depending on the Trophy Racer you have, it may/may-not have
wheelpants. These next steps describe how to assemble them
if it does. If you fly off smooth surfaces, we would definitely
recommend using them as they do add quite a bit to the look and
feel of your Trophy Racer.
If, however, you fly off of grass or rougher surfaces, they might
not hold up to extended wear and abuse. The call is yours.
Step 73 - Wheel Pants (P3)
Locate one of the P3s from
BP16. Also locate both axle
shafts from the hardware
bag. These axle shafts
perform double duty as
alignment pins to stack the
wheel pant pieces.
Carefully push them through
the alignment holes in P3 as
shown.
Step 74 - Wheel Pants (P2)
Locate four of the P2s from BP17.
These will be stacked up as shown
here. Glue each piece to the one
before it, but be very careful not
to get any glue on the axle shafts.
Step 75 - Wheel Pants (P3)
Locate one of the P3s from BP16. This is last piece of the stack.
Glue this in place, again being careful not to get any glue on the
axle shafts.