Old School Model Works Robin Hood 25 Instructions for use

CONSTRUCTION
MANUAL
Specifications: Wingspan: 51 in. • Wing Area: 400 sq in.
Airframe Length: 33 in. • Weight: 3-3.5 lb.
www.oldschoolmodels.com
Using the Manual
Be sure to read each step thoroughly before
you start the step. Test-fit the parts together
to make sure they fit properly. If necessary
trim to fit.
Beside each step you will notice a check
box (or two). These are so you can keep
track of your progress while building your
kit. For steps that have two boxes, as in the
construction of the left and right wing halves,
these steps must be performed two times.
• Your Old School Model Works aircraft should not be
considered a toy, but rather a sophisticated, working
model that functions very much like a full-size airplane.
Because of its performance capabilities, this model, if not
assembled and operated correctly, could possibly cause
injury to yourself or spectators, and damage to property.
• You must assemble this model according to the
instructions. Do not alter or modify this model, as doing
so may result in an unsafe or un-flyable model. In a few
cases the instructions may differ slightly from the photos.
In those instances the written instructions should be
considered as correct.
• You must take time to build straight, true and strong.
• You must use a R/C radio system that is in first-
class condition, a correctly sized power system and
components (electronics, batteries, wheels, etc.)
throughout the building process.
• You must correctly install all R/C and other components
so that the model operates correctly on the ground
and in the air. (Installation shown in the manual is a
suggestion. You may have to adjust the mounting steps
to accommodate the size of your radio equipment.)
• You must check the operation of the model before every
flight to insure that all equipment is operating and that
the model has remained structurally sound. Be sure to
check clevises or other connectors often and replace
them if they show any signs of wear or fatigue.
• If you are not an experienced pilot or have not flown this
type of model before, we recommend that you get the
assistance of an experienced pilot in your R/C club for
your first flights. If you’re not a member of a club, your
local hobby shop has information about clubs in your
area whose membership includes experienced pilots.
• While this kit has been flight tested to exceed normal
use, if this model will be used for extremely high stress
flying, such as racing, or if a power system larger than
one in the recommended range is used, the modeler is
responsible for taking steps to reinforce the high stress
points and/or substituting hardware more suitable for the
increased stress.
Remember: Take your time and follow
the instructions to end up with a well-
built model that is straight and true.
prototype built & flown
by dan gaston

Page 2 www.oldschoolmodels.com Construction Manual
WARNING
READ THROUGH THIS MANUAL
BEFORE STARTING CONSTRUCTION.
IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT WARNINGS
AND INSTRUCTIONS CONCERNING
THE CONSTRUCTION AND USE OF THIS
MODEL.
A Radio-Controlled aircraft is not a toy!
If misused, it can cause serious bodily harm
and damage to property. Fly only in open
areas, preferably at AMA (Academy of Model
Aeronautics) approved flying sites, following all
instructions included with your radio, powerplant,
electronics and batteries.
We urge you to join the AMA (Academy of Model Aeronautics) and
a local R/C club. The AMA is the governing body of model aviation
and membership is required to fly at AMA clubs.
Though joining the AMA provides many benefits, one of the
primary reasons to join is liability protection.
Additionally, training programs and instructors are available at
AMA club sites to help you get started the right way. There are
over 2,500 AMA chartered clubs across the country. Contact the
AMA at the address or toll-free phone number below:
Academy of Model Aeronautics
5161 East Memorial Drive • Muncie, IN 47302
Phone [phone] • www.modelaircraft.org
IMPORTANT!!! Two of the most important things you
can do to preserve the radio controlled aircraft hobby are to avoid
flying near full-scale aircraft and avoid flying near or over groups
of people.
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including lead, which
is known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other
reproductive harm. For more information go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
INCLUDED ITEMS
Wood parts included in this kit:
• 1 - LP1 - Laser Cut 1/8” x 6 x 24 sheet
• 1 - LP2 - Laser Cut 1/8” x 6 x 24 sheet
• 1 - LP3 - Laser Cut 1/8” x 6 x 24 sheet
• 1 - LP4 - Laser Cut 1/8” x 6 x 24 sheet
• 2 - BP1 - Laser Cut 1/8” x 3 x 24 sheet
• 2 - BP2 - Laser Cut 1/8” x 3 x 24 sheet
• 2 - BP3 - Laser Cut 1/8” x 3 x 24 sheet
• 4 - BP4 - Laser Cut 1/16” x 4 x 24 sheet
• 5/16” x 5/16” x 36” balsa strips (2 pieces)
• 1/4” x 1/4” x 36” balsa strips (10 pieces)
• 1/4” x 1/2” x 36” balsa strips (1 piece)
• 3/16” x 3/16” 36” balsa strips (6 pieces)
• 3/16” x 1” x 36” balsa strips (2 pieces)
• 3/16” x 3/8” x 36” basswood strips (6 pieces)
• 1 - 1/4”x 6” wooden dowel.
Hardware parts included in this kit:
• 1 - Pre-bent landing gear (front)
• 1 - Pre-bent landing gear (rear)
• C/A type hinges for control surfaces
• 4 - control horns
• 4 - wheel collars 1/8” I.D.
• 4 - 1/8” plastic landing gear straps
• 8 - flexible plastic straps
• 2 - 1/4-20 x 1-1/2” wing bolts
• 10 - 2-56 x 3/4” machine screws
• 35 - 2-56 x 3/4” self tapping screws
• 4 - 4-40 x 3/4” bolts and matching t-nuts
• 1 - Clear plastic sheet for windscreen and windows
• 4 - 1/4” x 1/16” Neodymium disc magnets
Other items included in this kit:
• 2 - Rolled plans (fuselage and wing)
• 1 - Construction Manual
ITEMS NEEDED
Hardware needed (not included in the kit)
For some of these items there is more than one option which will
require a bit of decision making ahead of time. There isn’t a right or
a wrong choice, so choose the items that work best for you.
Our engine size recommendation range is a .25 two-stroke or
an electric motor with similar power output, such as the E-Flite
25. Remember that the Robinhood 25 is a fun-scale model
that is intended to fly at scale-like speeds, so prudent throttle
management should be practiced.
Here is a list of additional parts needed to complete and fly this
kit, all of which must be purchased separately. Again, we would
recommended supporting your local hobby shop.
• Powerplant:
if Electric (.25-sized brushless motor, 60amp ESC, 3S LiPo)
if Glow (.20-.25 engine, 4-6 ounce tank, fuel tubing)
• Propeller
• Engine/Motor mount and mounting hardware
• Receiver - (4 channel minimum)
• Servos with 40-70 in./oz. of torque
1 each for elevator and rudder; 1 for each aileron if using
ailerons (4ch.); 1 for throttle (if using a glow engine)
• “Y” servo harness
• Pushrods (two 5” for ailerons, two 24” for elevator & rudder,
one 12” for throttle if glow powered)
• Clevises for the pushrods (8 if electric, 10 if glow).
• 2 - 3” diameter wheels
• 1 - tailwheel assembly
• Covering
Additional Required Building Tools and Adhesives
• Drill & assorted drill bits
• Hobby knife and new, sharp blades
• Sandpaper: coarse (80 or 100 grit) & medium (150-200 grit)

Construction Manual www.oldschoolmodels.com Page 3
• Pencil or pen
• Ruler
• String (18” length)
• T-Pins
• Waxed paper
• Building board
• 6 and 30 minute epoxy
• Adhesives of your choice. We recommend thin and medium
CA (cyanoacrylate) viscosities
• Epoxy brushes and mixing sticks
• Threadlocking compound
• Torch or soldering iron, solder and flux
• Canopy glue
Before Starting Assembly
Closely inspect the supplied laser cut parts for damage. If you find
any damaged or missing parts, contact us immediately.
When removing the laser cut parts from their sheets, you’ll notice
the parts are held in place by several small “tabs”. These tabs
are uncut pieces of wood and can sometimes make it difficult to
remove a part. Rather than breaking and/or splintering the wood
by forcing out the part, we recommend removing any laser cut
parts from their sheets by using a hobby knife with a new, sharp
blade. A quick cut of the tab will allow the piece to be removed
with no damage. Sand any tab remainders flush with the part so
there will be no problem aligning them later.
It’s best to not remove parts from their sheets until they are needed.
Refer to Appendix A of this manual as a reference to what all the
laser cut parts look like and are called.
For each step, we highly recommend that you dry fit the parts in
each step first. Lightly sand as needed to ensure a good fit. Once
you’re satisfied with the fit, then and only then, glue the parts in
position.
IT IS VERY IMPORTANT THAT YOU ASSEMBLE THIS
ROBINHOOD 25 KIT IN THE ORDER DESCRIBED. SKIPPING
FORWARD IN THE STEPS COULD LEAVE YOU WITHOUT THE
PROPER LENGTHS OF WOOD TO FINISH THE KIT.
WE’VE INCLUDED ENOUGH WOOD TO EASILY COMPLETE
THIS KIT, BUT YOU MUST TAKE CARE TO PROPERLY
MEASURE AND NOT WASTE WOOD WHEN CUTTING.
Closely inspect the supplied laser cut parts for damage. If you find
any damaged or missing parts, contact us immediately.
Online Supplementary Photos
We realize that the smaller black-and-
white photos in this manual might not
show some of the steps as clearly as
you might want. So we’ve anticipated
this and made these photos available
on our website. You can either scan the
QR code or type this address into your
browser:
www.oldschoolmodels.com/mpics/rh25
Let’s begin construction by working on the left (port) wing of
your Robinhood 25.
Prepare your work area
You’ll need a flat building surface that is a minimum of 36” long.
Position the left wing plan over the surface and tape into position.
Tear off a length of waxed paper long enough to cover the left
wing plan and tape that into position, over the plan.
Step 1 - Alignment triangles
Pre-cut into LP3 are two triangles,
one inside the other. These can be
used to vertically align any of the
parts in the construction of your
Robinhood 25. LP3 also includes
two foot pieces that can be used
with the triangles to hold both
triangles vertical hands-free.
We recommend using the smaller triangle in the wing construction
as it’s small enough to fit between the ribs.
Step 2 - Wing Assembly (outer wing tip)
The wing panels are constructed
from the outside (tips), in towards
the center (root). Remove parts
T1, T2, T3, R6 and R7 from one
of the BP1 sheets. Slide T1, T2,
& T3 in place on R7 to make the
R7 assembly. Then, position R6 as
shown here and gently push the R7
assembly into place. Note that the positioning of R6 is important
as you will make a left and a right side. Once satisfied with the fit,
glue everything in place.
Step 3 - Wing Assembly (cut & drill lower spar)
The lower spar is a one of the 3/16 x 3/8”basswood strips. Position
over the plan, measure the length and cut, leaving an extra 1/2” or
so past the R1 position.
Step 4 - Wing Assembly (drill lower spar)
Measure, mark and drill the
1/8” hole into the lower spar,
as shown on the plans. Tap
in a 4-40 t-nut firmly into this
hole and then capture the nut
in place by gluing one TC from
BP4. The hole in TC should be centered over the hole in the t-nut,
and the edges of TC should align with the edges of the spar. Make
sure to keep the glue out of the threads of the t-nut.
Step 5 - Wing Assembly (position lower spar)
Making sure that the TC is
facing upwards, attach the
spar over the plans, using
a couple small drops of
medium CA instead of
t-pins. Be sure it is aligned properly and is straight over it’s entire
length. The alignment of this spar is critical as the rest of the wing
panel is based off this single piece.

Page 4 www.oldschoolmodels.com Construction Manual
Step 6 - Wing Assembly (attach R6)
Position the R6/R7 assembly in position. Make sure it is vertical and
pin the rear tab to the building board. Do not glue yet.
Step 7 - Wing Assembly (attach first WB3s)
Remove two WB3 sheer web
pieces from one of the BP4 sheets.
Fit as shown, one in the front of
the spar, one in the rear. Make sure
that the tabs in WB3 slide into the
slots in R6 as this will guarantee
that R6 is held in vertically. When
satisfied with the fit, glue R6 and
both WB3 pieces to the bottom spar.
Step 8 - Wing Assembly (attach two R3)
Now you’ll need two R3 ribs from
BP3 and four WB3 sheer webs from
BP4. Position one R3 up against the
ends of the WB3 pieces from the
last step. Once located properly,
pin the rib’s rear tab to the board,
then fit two WB3s in place. When
satisfied with the fit and location,
glue these pieces in place. Working your way inward, attach the
other R3 and WB3 pieces in place.
Step 9 - Wing Assembly (attach two R5)
Next you’ll need two R5 ribs from
BP3 and four WB3 sheer webs from
BP4. Position one R5 up against the
ends of the WB3 pieces from step
8. Once located properly, pin the
rear tab to the board, then fit two of
the WB3s in place. When satisfied
with the fit and location, glue these
pieces in place. Working your way inward, attach the other R5 and
WB3 pieces in place.
Step 10 - Wing Assembly (attach two R4s)
Now you’ll need two R4 ribs from
BP2 and four WB3 sheer webs from
BP4. Position one R4 up against the
ends of the WB3 pieces from step
9. Once located properly, pin the
rear tab to the board, then fit two of
the WB3s in place. When satisfied
with the fit and location, glue these
pieces in place. Working your way inward, attach the other R4 and
WB3 pieces in place.
Step 11 - Wing Assembly (attach two hatch rails)
Cut two 3” long pieces cut from the
leftover 3/16” x 3/8” basswood cut
for the bottom spar. These will be
hatch mounting rails and slide into the
holes in both R5 ribs, then are glued
into position. Even if building as a 3
channel, we advise installing these.
Step 12 - Wing Assembly
(attach R3)
Locate one R3 rib from BP3 and two
WB2 sheer webs from BP4. Position
R3 up against the ends of the WB3
pieces from step 10. Once located
properly, pin the rear tab to the
board. Lightly tack the R3 to the
WB3 pieces. Once the glue has set,
you will cut away the center of the R3 rib, leaving a box as shown in
the photo. Then fit two of the WB3s in place. When satisfied with
the fit and location, glue these pieces in place.
Step 13 - Wing Assembly (attach R2)
Locate one R2 rib from LP4 and
two WB1 sheer webs from BP4.
Take care when removing R2 from
the sheet as it has two slots pre-cut
between where the spars would
fit. These slots will allow the center
portion of R2 to be removed later
on, but make sure R2 remains as a
single rib for now.
Position R2 up against the ends of the WB2 pieces from step 12.
Once located properly, pin the rear tab to the board. Again, lightly
tack the R2 to the WB2 pieces.
Step 14 - Wing Assembly (attach R2)
Fit two of the WB1s (from BP4) in place. Note that the WB1s have
a slight angle on one end and there is a small circle engraved. This
angled side should face the inner (root) rib, with angle tapering
upwards (circle on top). When satisfied with the fit and location,
glue these pieces in place.
Step 15 - Wing Assembly
(attach R1)
Locate one R1 rib from LP4 and take
care when removing it as it also has
two slots pre-cut between where
the spars would fit. These slots will
allow the center portion of R1 to be
removed later on, but make sure R1
remains as a single rib for now.
Position it up against the ends of the WB1 pieces from step 14.
Once located properly, pin the rear tab to the board. Lightly tack
the R1 to the WB1 pieces.
Step 16 - Wing Assembly
(cut leading edge)
Measure and cut one of the 1/4”
square balsa strips to create the
leading edge Press it into position
and glue to all the ribs.
Step 17 - Wing Assembly (cut upper sub-spars)
Measure and cut a 3/16”square balsa strip to create the upper sub-
spar. Press it into position and glue to all the ribs.

Construction Manual www.oldschoolmodels.com Page 5
Step 18 - Wing Assembly (cut trailing edge)
Measure and cut one of the
5/16” balsa strips to create the
trailing edge. Glue to all the ribs.
Step 19 - Wing Assembly (create dihedral box)
Carefully cut away the center
of the R1, R2 & R3 ribs, leaving
a box as shown in the photo.
Carefully sand the inside of the
box so the edges are smooth
and flush. This forms three sides
of the dihedral box and needs to
be smooth and free from edges
so the dihedral braces will slide
in smoothly when joining the
wing halves later.
Step 20 - Wing Assembly (cut upper spar)
Lightly sand the edges of the bottom
face of the spar as shown in the drawing
to the right. This will help the spar slide
in easier.
This next part takes a bit of time, so we
recommend against using an instant
setting glue. If you are using CA, use a thicker formulation that
gives you a bit of working time.
Measure and cut one of the 3/16” x 3/8” basswood strips to use
as the upper spar. Apply glue to the top of the ribs where they will
contact the upper spar.
Working from the tip rib (R6), carefully press the upper spar into
position. This will be a tight fit and might require “wiggling” the
spar from side to side to slip in-between the sheer webs. Be sure to
press the spar completely into the slot in each rib, making it flush
with the sheer webs.
Now wick thin C/A along the spar to sheer web joints (front and
back) along the entire length of the spar
When fitting the upper spar to make the top of the dihedral box,
be careful not to drip excess glue into the box formed between
R3, R2 and R1.
Step 21 - Wing Assembly (lower sub-spar)
Carefully remove the wing half
from the board and flip it over.
Measure and cut two of the
3/16”square balsa strips to create
the lower sub-spars. Press them
into position and glue to all the
ribs.
Step 22 - Wing Assembly (SMR install)
Locate one SMR from LP4 and
one TC from BP4. Using the
same technique as in Step 4 -
install a 4-40 t-nut and TC on
to SMR. Once ready, the SMR is
glued into place spanning the
gap between the R5 ribs, with the TC towards the inside of the
wing. Also add glue it to where SMR touches the lower sub-spar
for a bit of extra support.
Step 23 - Wing Assembly (sand R1 flush)
Take a bit of time to sand the
inside edge of the R1 fib flush -
removing excess length of the
spars, sub-spars, leading and
trailing edges.
Step 24 - Wing Assembly (right wing construction)
Set the left (port) wing half aside and begin work on the right
(starboard) wing half. Tape the right wing plan and fresh wax
paper on your board. Then follow steps 1 through 23 to complete
the right wing half. Once finished, then move on to step 25 to
complete the wing assembly.
Step 25 - Wing Assembly (install WH5)
Locate WH5 from sheet LP4
and the left wing panel. The tab
on the end of WH5 will push
into the slot in R2, and WH5
will then fit into the cutout on
R1. Glue into position, but be
careful not to get any excess
glue on the outside of R1.
Step 26 - Wing Assembly (install WH6)
Locate WH6 from sheet LP4.
Again, using the left wing half,
this piece will slide into the slot
in R1, just to the front of the
trailing edge. Push it through
until the tab is located in the
slot of R2. Glue to R2 and to
the inside of R1, again making sure no glue is on the outside of R1.
Step 27 - Wing Assembly (DH1/DH2 install)
Be sure to have some paper towels and rubbing alcohol handy to
clean up any drips and/or fingerprints that might occur during this
step.
Start with left wing
panel and the center
section. Locate two
balsa DH2’s from BP1
and DH1 from LP4.
Note that these pieces
only fit properly one
way. Similar to the
WB1’s from earlier, the
DH2’s have a small circle engraved in them, and this circle should
be positioned to the top and center of the wing.
These three pieces form a “sandwich” of sorts with DH1 fitting
between the DH2’s, then sliding into the dihedral box in one of the
wing halves. Test fit the parts into the slot as shown here. The brace
should snugly slide into each wing exactly half way. Also, the WH5
and WH6 pieces should slide through R1 and into R2.
After test fitting, it’s time to install it permanently with the help
Lightly
sand here.
Lightly
sand here.

Page 6 www.oldschoolmodels.com Construction Manual
of some 30 minute epoxy. Remove the DH2 and DH1 parts, then
mix up enough 30 minute epoxy to Carefully spread a thin layer of
epoxy on the inside of the dihedral box of one wing half, and both
sides of one half of DH1.
Put a DH2 on the front and back of DH1 where you applied the
epoxy. Be careful to note the circle’s position on each DH2. Then
slide the DH1/DH2 sandwich into the wing’s box, making sure that
DH1 is angled upwards, toward the top of the wing. Push it in so
exactly half of DH1 is inside the wing half (both DH2’s should be
flush with R1 when seated properly).
Wipe off any excess epoxy with the paper towels and rubbing
alcohol mentioned earlier in this step.
Step 28 - Wing Assembly (join 2 wing halves)
Once the epoxy has cured
from the previous step, it’s
time to join the two wing
halves. Locate the other
DH2’s from BP1 and test
fit them into the right wing
half, as you did before.
Note that when you test fit
the pieces, together, the
wing halves should touch in
the middle, with both R1 pieces lining up with no twists.
After test fitting, it’s time to join the wing halves permanently with
a bit more 30 minute epoxy. Remove the DH2 and DH1 parts and
apply the epoxy as you did in the previous step, but also coat the
joining face of R1.
Now repeat the process you used in the previous step to attach the
DH1/DH2 sandwich in the right wing’s box.
Any twist in the alignment of the panels cannot be fixed after the
epoxy cures and will lead to a poor flying model. As the two wing
halves are close to mating, be sure that the tabs on WH5 and WH6
slide into the tabs on R2.
Using a couple of clamps,
hold R1 ribs firmly together
between the two wing halves.
Wipe off any excess epoxy
and remove the clamps only
after the epoxy has fully cured.
Also be sure to add glue to
WH5 and WH6 where they key
into the R2’s.
Step 29 - Wing Assembly (install WH6 and WH7)
Once the epoxy has cured from
the previous step, position the
wing with the top up and the
trailing edge closest to you.
Locate the 4 WH7’s from the
BP2 sheets. Glue one WH7 on
top of WH6 on the left side of
center, making sure that the holes line up, then one on the right.
Now glue a second WH6 on top of the first one on the left side,
then one on the right.
Step 30 - Wing Assembly (center sheeting)
Now the center sheeting
is applied to the
underside of the wing’s
center section.
Flip the wing so the
bottom is facing up and
apply the sheeting from
the center (R1) out to
R2, one half at a time. If
you look closely you’ll
find that R1 and R2 are
recessed slightly to allow this sheeting to fit flush with all the spars
and trailing edge.
Using the surplus 1/16” sheeting from the BH4 sheets, measure
and cut the sheeting to cover the opening between the R1 and R2
ribs. You will need 3 pieces per side:
• Two front sheets - these cover the gap between the lower-front
sub-spar and the front sheer webs
• Two mid sheets - these cover the gap between the rear sheer
webs and the lower-rear sub spar.
• Two rear sheets - these cover the gap between the lower-rear
sub spar and the trailing edge.
The rear sheets will have to be notched to clear the two tabs at the
back of R1 and R2.
Once satisfied with the fit, glue each of these sheeting pieces into
position.
If building as a 4ch model (with ailerons) the mid sheets will need
a hole cut into each of them to allow the aileron extension wires to
exit the wing (see plans). You can cut these now, or after the sheets
are installed.
Step 31 - Wing Assembly (remove tabs)
Remove the rear tabs on each of the ribs. The balsa tabs will
typically snap off, depending on the amount of glue used to attach
the trailing edge. The tabs on the plywood ribs (R1 & R2) will need
to be sawed/sanded to be removed.
Step 32 - Wing Assembly (sanding)
It’s time sand the wing to the proper shape. Start with a coarser
grit (80-100) to round the leading edge, shape the trailing edge,
and round the edges of the wing tips. Take care not to remove too
much, too quickly - you can always take more off, but you can’t put
it back on!
Switch to a finer grit (150-200) to smooth out the entire wing.
Step 33 - Wing Assembly (attaching WH1-WH4)
The front of the wing
is held in place with a
unique assembly that
we’re going to build now.
Position the wing with the
bottom surface up, and
the leading edge facing
you. Also locate both
WH1’s, the WH2, WH3

Construction Manual www.oldschoolmodels.com Page 7
and WH4 from the LP4 sheet. Also, cut a 1-1/4” length from the
included 1/4” dowel and round off one of the dowel’s ends.
These pieces all interlock together so we suggest dry fitting these
components the first time.
In the rounded part of the WH1’s and WH2 is a 1/4” dia. hole. Slide
the non-rounded end of the 1/4” dowel through one of the WH1’s
and push it through so it extends a 1/4” out of the opposite side.
Next push the WH2 on, and finally the other WH1. By lining up the
WH1’s and the WH2, you’ll see that their tabs will now slide into the
slots in WH3. Once WH3 is in position, the remaining tabs on WH2
can now be slid into WH4, and then into WH5, already installed on
the wing.
After you see how all these pieces go together, disassemble them
and re-assemble using glue. Make sure that the WH1’s and WH2
pieces are perfectly in line before the glue sets. Then make sure
that WH3 fits flat against WH4, and in turn, WH4 fits flat against
WH5 as you’re gluing them together.
Step 34 - Wing Assembly (sanding)
You’ll need to take a bit of the edges off the corners of WH3, as
it protrudes a bit from the curvature of the wing rib R2 on each
side. Also, do not sand down any of the WH1/WH2 assembly as
the wood that protrudes from the bottom of the wing’s surface is
needed for strength.
Step 35 - Wing Assembly (Optional strings)
This step is optional, but
could make the aileron
servo installation a bit
easier, once the wings
are covered. Cut two 12”
lengths of string, one for
the left wing, and one
for the right. Remember
that hole cut in the lower
sheeting, middle section
in step 30? Starting with the left wing panel, push the thread
through this hole, then through the circular holes in R2, R3, and
R4. The string will now extend from the servo bay, out through the
bottom of the wing. Tape both ends of the string so they won’t pull
out. Do the same for the right panel.
This completes assembly of the Robinhood 25 wing.
Now it’s time to start construction of the fuselage.
Prepare your work area
Now tape the fuselage side plan and a fresh piece of waxed paper
on your building board.
Step 36 - Fuselage Assembly
The fuselage sides are made by first constructing the right side,
then building the left side on top of the right side. Because of
this, you’ll need to pay attention to where pins are used during the
construction of the right side, so they won’t interfere with aligning
the left side parts.
Step 37 - Fuselage Assembly (FRS)
Construction starts with the right side of the fuselage. Locate FRS
from sheet LP1. Pin FRS in position over the plans, but do not pin
through the wood. Instead,
use a few pins around the
outside of FRS as shown in
the photo. Mark the side
facing up as “right” in small
letters, as a reference for
later.
Step 38 - Fuselage Assembly (top longeron)
Measure and cut the top longeron from 1/4” square strip. Pin in
position and glue to FRS.
Step 39 - Fuselage Assembly (bottom longeron)
Take one of the
complete 1/4” square
strips and begin to
pin in place to form
the bottom longeron,
working from the tail of
the fuselage, forward.
this piece is curved and
will require several pins along it’s length to hold in place. This piece
ends at F3. Once in position, glue to FRS.
Step 40 - Fuselage Assembly (vertical supports)
Measure and cut the
vertical support pieces
from 1/4” square strip,
using shorter lengths
first. Take care to match
the angles for a good
fit. Pin these in position
and glue into place.
Step 41 - Fuselage Assembly (diagonal supports)
Measure and cut the diagonal support pieces from 1/4” square
strip, using shorter lengths first. Take care to match the angles for a
good fit. Pin these in position and glue into place.
Step 42 - Fuselage Assembly (stab support)
Measure and cut the
horizontal support for
the stab and it’s two
vertical supports from
1/4” square strip. Pin in
position and glue into
place.
Remove two G gussets from BP3. Glue together to form a 1/4”
thick piece. Glue in place.
Step 43 - Fuselage Assembly (pushrod exit)
Locate two of the EXIT
pieces from sheet BP2.
Glue one on top of
the other, then pin in
position and glue into
place.

Page 8 www.oldschoolmodels.com Construction Manual
Step 44 - Fuselage Assembly (prepare for left side build)
As mentioned before,
the left side is built on
top of the right side
you’ve just assembled.
To do this, make sure
that all that make up
the left side pieces
will be able to lay flat
against the assembled
right side. This might mean removing pins that held some of the
right side pieces to the building board. Typically this can be done
quite easily and the pieces will still be held in place by the already
cured glue.
You should have several leftover pieces of the 1/4”square strip and
1/4” x 1/2” strip laying around. Place several of these on top of
FRS as shown in the photo. These will be the spacers necessary to
locate FLS properly, 1/4” above FRS.
Also, cut a sheet of waxed paper to cover the right side and place it
in position. This will protect the right side as you build the left side.
Step 45 - Fuselage Assembly (FLS)
Building the left side
starts by locating FLS
from sheet LP3. Pin
FLS in position over
the plans, but do not
pin through the wood.
Instead, use a few pins
around the outside of
FLS as shown in the
photo. Note that FLS is
slightly longer than FRS around the firewall, to build in a bit of right
thrust. Because of this, to properly line up FLS, use the window
cutouts and the rear portion as reference.
Step 46 - Fuselage Assembly (top longeron)
Measure and cut the top longeron from 1/4” square strip. Pin in
position and glue to FLS.
Step 47 - Fuselage Assembly (bottom longeron)
Take a complete 1/4” square strip and begin to pin in place to form
the bottom longeron. Again, this piece is curved and will require
several pins along it’s length to hold in place. This piece ends at F3.
Once in position, glue to FLS.
Step 48 - Fuselage Assembly (vertical supports)
Measure and cut the
vertical support pieces
from 1/4” square strip,
again using shorter
lengths first. Take care
to match the angles for
a good fit. Pin these in
position and glue into
place.
Step 49 - Fuselage Assembly (stab support)
Measure and cut the horizontal support for the stab from 1/4”
square strip. Pin in position and glue into place.
Step 50 - Fuselage Assembly (diagonal supports)
Measure and cut the diagonal support pieces from 1/4” square
strip. Take care to match the angles for a good fit. Pin these in
position and glue into place.
Step 51 - Fuselage Assembly (pushrod exit)
Once the glue has cured,
remove the left side
and flip it over. Locate
the remaining two EXIT
pieces from sheet BP2.
Glue together, then pin
in position and glue into
place so it is flush against
the left side. Remove two G gussets from BP3. Glue together to
form a 1/4” thick piece. Glue in place. (Not shown for clarity.)
Step 52 - Fuselage Assembly (right side)
Place the right side of the fuselage back on your work surface, in
the same position as it was when you assembled it.
Step 53 - Fuselage
Assembly (F3 and LG1)
Locate F3 from sheet LP2 and
LG1 from sheet LP1. You’ll
see that the notched side of
LG1 fits into the slots on the
bottom of F3. This in turn will
fit into the fuselage as shown
on the plans. Also note that
LG1 is slightly tapered, so when F3 and LG1 are glued in place, F3
will not be perfectly vertical. When satisfied with the location and
fit of these pieces, glue into place on FRS.
Step 54 - Fuselage Assembly (F4 and LG4)
Locate F4 and LG4 from sheet
LP2. As in the previous step,
LG4 fits into the notches on
the bottom of F4, then into the
fuselage as shown on the plans.
When satisfied with the location
and fit of these pieces, glue into
place on FRS.
Step 55 - Fuselage Assembly (TF)
Locate TF from sheet LP2.
You’ll notice a small circle
engraved in the corner
on the shorter end of the
piece. This designates the
front and right side of TF.
Slip the tab in the rear of
TF into the slot of F3, then
the tabs in the right side of
TF into the corresponding

Construction Manual www.oldschoolmodels.com Page 9
slots on FRS. TF must fit flush with the fuselage side, and former
F3. When satisfied with the location and fit of TF, glue TF to FRS,
but not to F3 at this time.
Step 56 - Fuselage
Assembly (attach left side)
Now the left side of the
fuselage is glued in place.
The tabs from F3, LG1, and TF
should all slide into the slots
in the left side. (Don’t worry
about fitting F4 and LG4 just
yet.)
When properly fitted, the two
sides will taper in towards the
nose.
When satisfied with the fit of
all these tabs, glue the left side
into place, and glue TF to F3.
Step 57 - Fuselage Assembly (attach left side)
Locate F3A from sheet LP2. This glues in place at the top of F3,
on the backside to strengthen the part. Make sure it is properly
aligned, then glue in place.
Step 58 - Fuselage Assembly (attach F4 and LG4)
Once the glue has dried from the previous step, it’s time to mate
up the tabs in F4 and LG4 to fit into the left side of the fuselage.
This require bending both sides in towards each other with a little
pressure. When satisfied with the fit of the tabs, glue these parts
in place.
Step 59 - Fuselage Assembly (attach F2)
Locate F2 from sheet LP2.
This fits on to the front of
the fuselage, making up
the back half of the firewall.
The slots in F2 fit into the
tabs on the left and right
fuselage sides. The slot in
the center of F2 is where
the tab on the end of TF
slides into. F2 should fit
flush all the way around.
When satisfied with the fit, glue in place.
Step 60 - Fuselage Assembly (F2 support)
From a bit of left over 3/16”
x 3/8”x 36” basswood
strip, cut two 1-1/4” pieces
and two 1” pieces. These
will be used to support the
joint between F2 and the
fuse sides.
The longer pieces are
used above TF, up against
the corner where F2 and
the fuse sides meet. The shorter pieces are used below F2. We
recommend using epoxy to glue these pieces in.
Step 61 - Fuselage Assembly (attach H2 or H2A)
Now is the time to make a choice. Will you hold on the front hatch
with a couple of screws or
with magnets? There’s not
a right or wrong answer
and we’ve included parts
for either scenario.
If you’re using screws,
locate both H2As from
sheet LP1. If you’re using
magnets, locate both H2s from sheet LP1.
Whether you choose H2 or H2A, they are installed the same way.
These are placed just behind F2, on each side of the top of the
fuselage. When satisfied with the fit of the tabs, glue these parts
in place. We recommend installing the magnets in these pieces
before gluing them in position.
If you choose to use wood screws, you can increase the thickness
of the H2As by gluing a couple of H2Bs on the underside of H2A.
Make sure to glue the same amount on both sides.
We chose to use 2-56 machine screws with matching 2-56 t-nuts.
The H2Bs are not needed in this case. Drill out the holes in both
H2As and press the t-nuts in from the backside.
Step 62 - Fuselage
Assembly (attach H4 and
H5)
Locate H4 and H5 from
sheet LP1. H5 goes across
the fuselage, making
the bottom frame of the
windscreen. Refer to the
photo as it should be
installed the correct way.
Once H5 is in place, H4 is glued to the back of H5, making for a
stronger cross-brace.
Step 63 - Fuselage Assembly (BF)
Locate both BF pieces from sheet BP2. Flip the fuselage over as
these are glued to the underside of the fuselage sides, in the space
between the bottom longerons and the back of F2. They should
also be fitted so they are flush with the fuselage sides. When
satisfied with the location and fit of these pieces on each side of
the fuselage, glue them in place.
Step 64 - Fuselage Assembly (LG2, LG3)
While the fuselage is upside down let’s do a bit more work
underneath.
Locate LG2 and LG3 from sheet LP1. LG2 is glued to LG1, between
the bottom longerons on each side of the fuse. LG3 will glue on
top of LG2, but requires
you to notch out a bit of
each bottom longeron to
clear the LG3's tabs. Be
careful to only cut out as
much as needed. Test fit
LG3 first, then when the fit
is good, glue it into place.

Page 10 www.oldschoolmodels.com Construction Manual
Step 65 - Fuselage Assembly (LG5, LG6)
Locate LG5 and LG6
from sheet LP2. LG5 is
glued to LG4, between
the bottom longerons
on each side of the fuse.
LG6 will glue on top of
LG5, but requires you to
notch out a bit of each
bottom longeron to
clear the LG6’s tabs, similar to what you did in the previous step.
Test fit LG6 first, then when the fit is good, glue it into place.
Step 66 - Fuselage Assembly (H1 or H1A)
Remember what choice
you made to hold on the
hatch - screws or magnets?
Well this choice also comes
into play with the next
step. Locate either H1 or
H1A from LP1. If you chose
screws, you'll need H1 for
this step. If magnets, you'll
need H1A.
Note - Don’t punch out the
slots and circles cut into the piece you choose. They should remain
in place for this step.
Each piece has a circle engraved on it noting the front, right corner.
Line up the part on the bottom of the fuselage, flush with sides of
the fuselage, and with F2. Check the fit and once satisfied with the
alignment, glue it into place.
Step 67 - Fuselage Assembly (1/8” sheeting)
Using a bit of the leftover
1/8” sheet from BP3,
measure and cut a piece of
1/8” sheet to cover the gap
between the back of H1
and the front of LG3. This
should be cut so the grain is
crossway (running from the
left to right sides). Check the
fit and once satisfied with the
fit, glue it into place.
Step 68 - Fuselage Assembly (F1)
Locate F1 from sheet LP2. This is the
front half of the firewall and is glued
into place by laminating it to F2 (using
epoxy). The bottom should be flush
with the H1 (or H1A piece you installed
the last step, and it should also be flush
with the sides of the fuselage. Coat the
front of F2 with a thin layer of epoxy
and clamp F1 in place until the glue
fully cures.
Step 69 - Fuselage Assembly (creating rear taper)
Work now moves to the rear of the fuselage to join the fuselage
sides so they taper together. To do this, you’ll need to sand away
equal amounts of balsa on the insides of
both sides.
Using a ruler and straight-edge, measure
and draw the guides as shown in the
photo (1/2 way on the verticals, tapering
in about 1” down the fuselage. These
marks will show exactly how much wood
should be sanded away on the insides
of each fuselage side, so they will taper
correctly. Although you can cut this with
a saw or hobby knife, sandpaper makes
quick work of this, but use caution not to
remove too much.
Step 70 - Fuselage Assembly (joining rear)
Once the rear of each side has been properly tapered, they can now
be glued together. Make sure both sides are in perfect alignment
before the glue sets up.
Step 71 - Fuselage Assembly (TW)
Locate both TWs from sheet
LP1. Glue both TW pieces
together, stacking them on top
of each other. Once the glue
cures, glue this TW assembly
in place, as shown in the plans,
between the bottom longerons,
flush with the bottom of the
fuselage.
Step 72 - Fuselage Assembly (top cross braces)
Refer to the plans
where it shows the top
view of the fuselage
for the next two steps.
Measure and cut the
fuselage’s top cross
support pieces from
1/4” square strip.
Take care to match the
angles for a good fit. Pin these in position and glue into place.
Step 73 - Fuselage Assembly (bottom cross braces)
Now flip the fuselage
over to measure and
cut the fuselage’s
bottom cross support
pieces from 1/4”
square strip. Again,
take care to match the
angles for a good fit.
Pin these in position
and glue into place.
Step 74 - Fuselage Assembly (rear wing mounts - left)
Locate both WH8s, both WH9s and both WH10s from sheet LP3.
These are used to create the rear wing mounts. Starting with the
left side first. WH10’s tabs fit into the back of F4 and inside the
rear window of each fuselage side. WH8 lays on top of WH10, with
it’s tab also fitting up against the top of the rear windows’ frame.
1 inch

Construction Manual www.oldschoolmodels.com Page 11
WH9 then lays on top of
WH8. Each of these pieces
should be epoxied in position
for maximum strength. Use
a small clamp to hold the
WH8-10 lamination in place
while the glue cures.
Step 75 - Fuselage Assembly (rear wing mounts - right)
Using the remaining WH8, WH9 and WH10 repeat this assembly
on the right side, making a mirror image of the left.
Step 76 - Fuselage Assembly (servo rails)
Using some of the leftover 3/16”
x 3/8”basswood strip, measure
and cut the front and rear servo
rails. These are pushed through
the rectangular cutouts on both
sides of the fuselage. Glue these
into place.
Step 77 - Fuselage Assembly (block sanding)
Before attaching the tail pieces, now would be a good time to
block sand the fuselage. Make sure each of the sides are smooth
and remove any extra wood from your cuts. A little extra work now
will pay off nicely after your Robinhood 25 is covered.
Now it’s time to start construction of the tail surfaces.
Prepare your work area
Position the horizontal stab /elevator plan side over the surface
and tape into position and cover with waxed paper.
Step 78 - Stab/Elevator (S1 & S2)
Locate the two S1’s from
BP1 and the four S2’s from
sheet BP2. Carefully stack
the two S1’s and glue them
together to form a single
1/4” thick S1. Take two of
the S2’s, stack and glue
them to form a single 1/4”
thick S2. Do the same with the remaining S2 pieces.
Step 79 - Stab/Elevator (stab trailing edge)
Measure and cut the
stab’s trailing edge from
a piece of 1/4” x 1/2”
strip. Pin this in position.
Step 80 - Stab/Elevator (S1 install)
Take the S1 assembly,
position and glue it in
place.
Step 81 - Stab/Elevator (S2 installs)
Take one of the S2 assemblies, position and glue it in place on the
left tip of the stab. Then do the same with the other S2 on the right
tip of the stab.
Step 82 - Stab/Elevator (leading edge)
Measure and cut the
stab’s leading edge
pieces from a piece of
1/4” square strip. Pin
these in position and
glue into place.
Step 83 - Stab/Elevator (stab ribs)
Measure and cut the stab’s internal ribs from a 1/4” square strip.
Take care to match the angles for a good fit. Pin these in position
and glue into place.
Step 84 - Stab/Elevator (elevator leading edges)
Once the glue has set,
remove the stab from the
plans, then measure and
cut both elevator leading
edge pieces from 1/4” x
1/2” strip. Be sure to cut
the notches on the inner
sections where the joiner
will attach. Pin these in position.
Step 85 - Stab/Elevator (joiner)
Measure and cut the
elevator joiner to length
from the included 1/4”
dowel. Glue this in
position.
Step 86 - Stab/Elevator (trailing edges)
Measure and cut the elevator’s trailing edge pieces from 1/4”
square strip. Pin these in position.
Step 87 - Stab/Elevator (inner edges)
Measure and cut the inner edge pieces for both elevators from 1/4”
x 1/2” strip and the trailing edge pieces from 1/4” squarestrip. Pin
these in position and glue into place.
Step 88 - Stab/Elevator (elevator tips and ribs)
Measure and cut the elevator’s tips and internal ribs from a 1/4”
square strip. Take care
to match the angles for
a good fit. Pin these in
position and glue into
place.

Page 12 www.oldschoolmodels.com Construction Manual
Step 89 - Stab/Elevator (finished)
Once the glue has set, remove the finished elevator from the plans.
Prepare your work area
Position the fuselage side plan over the surface and tape into
position. Cover it with waxed paper and tape that over the plan.
Step 90 - Fin Assembly (RD1 )
Locate both RD1 pieces from
sheets BP1. Carefully stack
them and glue them together
to form a 1/4” thick RD1 piece.
Step 91 - Fin Assembly (fin trailing edge)
Measure and cut the two
pieces of 1/4” x 1/4” square
that make up the trailing edge
of the vertical fin.
Pin the longer (rear most)
piece in position, then glue
the shorter piece in place as
shown on the plans.
Step 92 - Fin Assembly (RD1 install)
Take the RD1 assembly, position and glue it into position.
Step 93 - Fin Assembly (bottom edge)
Locate two RD2’s from sheet BP2. Carefully stack them and glue
them together to form a 1/4” thick RD2 piece. Pin in position as
shown on the plans glue in place.
Step 94 - Fin Assembly (leading edge)
Measure and cut the fin’s leading edge from 1/4” square strip. Pin
in position and glue into place.
Step 95 - Fin Assembly (fin ribs)
Measure and cut the fin’s internal
ribs from a 1/4” square strip. Take
care to match the angles for a
good fit. Pin these in position and
glue into place.
Remove two G gussets from BP3.
Glue together to form a 1/4” thick
piece. Glue in place.
Step 96 - Rudder (leading edges)
Once the glue has set, remove the vertical fin from the plans, then
measure and cut the rudder’s leading edge, made from two pieces
of 1/4” x 1/4” strip glued together. Pin in position.
Step 97 - Rudder (RD3 & RD4)
Locate both RD3 and RD4 pieces
from sheets BP1. Carefully stack
both RD3’s and glue them together
to form a 1/4” thick RD3 piece.
Stack both RD4’s and glue them
together to form a 1/4” thick RD4
piece.
Step 98 - Rudder (RD3 & RD4 install)
Take the RD3 and RD4 assemblies, position and glue them into
position.
Step 99 - Rudder (trailing edges)
Measure and cut the rudder’s trailing edge pieces from 1/4” x 1/4”
strip. Pin and glue in position.
Step 100 - Rudder (rudder ribs)
Measure and cut the rudder’s
internal ribs from a 1/4”
square strip. Take care to
match the angles for a good
fit. Pin these in position and
glue into place.
Step 101 - Rudder
Once the glue has set, remove the finished rudder from the plans.
Step 101 - Fuselage Assembly (sanding tail pieces)
Also take the time to sand the horizontal stabilizer, elevator, vertical
fin and rudder pieces. The leading edge of each piece should be
rounded. Slowly work this rounded edge around the tips of the
stab and elevator, as well as the vertical fin and rudder.
Step 102 - Fuselage Assembly (front wing hold fit)
Now it’s time to attach the wing to the fuselage. Dry fit it in place
and make sure that the dowel fits nicely into the pre-cut hole in F3.
If the fit is a bit tight, lightly sand (or use a reamer) to enlarge the
hole slightly. Do this a little at a time as you don’t want a sloppy fit.
The fit should be so that the dowel can easily be inserted/removed
without force.
Step 104 - Fuselage Assembly (fuse/wing alignment)
To align the wing properly
on the fuselage, push the
dowel into the F3 and allow
the wing to sit in the wing
saddle of the fuselage. The
wing is perfectly aligned with
the distance from left wing tip
to the rear of the fuselage is the
same the distance when measured
from the right wing tip.
With the wing aligned, drill two 3/16” holes for the wing bolts.
Using the precut holes in the WH6/WH7 assemblies as a guide
(already installed in the wing), drill down through the WH8/WH9/
WH10 assemblies on each side of the fuselage.
Use caution to make sure the wing does not move until both holes
are drilled.
Step 105 - Fuselage Assembly (tap WH8/WH9/WH10)
Remove the wing from the fuselage. Using a 1/4-20 tap, use it to
tap both holes drilled into the WH8/WH9/WH10 assemblies. Use
thin CA to wick into the threads to harden the wood. Once the glue
has cured, run the tap through one more time to clear out any glue
that might be in the cuts.
Drill the through-holes in the wing with a 17/64 drill so the wing
bolts can slip through easily.
A A

Construction Manual www.oldschoolmodels.com Page 13
Step 106 - Fuselage Assembly (level stab)
To attach the stab,
first bolt the wing
in place. Then lay
the stab on the
stab support. Look at the fuselage straight on, from the nose (or
tail) and make sure that the stab is level with the wings. If not,
remove the stab and gently sand the stab supports a little at time.
Check the stab and re-sand the supports if needed.
Step 107 - Fuselage Assembly (attach stab)
Once leveled, ensure that the
stab is aligned with the wing
by measuring the distance
from the left wing tip to the
left tip of the stab. Compare
this to the distance between
the right wing and stab tip.
Slide the stab a bit until these
two measurements are equal.
Make a couple of marks where
the stab touches the fuselage so you can place it back in the same
position.
Remove the stab, apply glue on the stab supports and the rear
face of the last fuselage cross brace, then attach the stab in place.
Step 108 - Fuselage Assembly (elevator hinging)
The elevator will be a captive piece once the vertical fin is installed
in the next step, now is the time to make the necessary slots/holes
needed to hinge the elevator to the stab. We recommend 4 hinges,
2 per side. DO NOT GLUE THE HINGES IN AT THIS POINT. Once
hinged, you might also want to cover the elevator and stab with
the covering material of your choice. It’s certainly not mandatory,
but it is easier to cover before it is held captive to the fuselage.
Step 109 - Fuselage Assembly (attach vertical fin)
Align and glue the vertical fin in place,
making sure to also glue on the trailing
edge where it meets the back of the
fuselage. Be careful not to get any glue
on the elevator joiner. Use the large
triangle from sheet LP4 to insure the fin is
a perfect 90° to the stab.
Step 110 - Fuselage Assembly (front hatch)
To complete the fuselage, you’ll need to assemble the hatch using
the H1 or H1A piece you chose, as well as the two H3 pieces from
sheet LP1.
First, test fit the hatch (H1 or
H1A) in place on the fuselage
noting the engraved circle
should be on the right side
of the fuselage. You’ll notice
that the back end of the hatch
needs to be sanded slightly
to match the angle of H5.
Carefully sand this to match, test fitting along the way.
When satisfied with the fit, place the hatch over a small piece of
wax paper, making sure that is upside down. Glue one H3 in each
of the two slots on the rear of the hatch, making sure that the H3
pieces point towards the rear of the hatch as shown.
Test fit the hatch in place and gently sand the H3 pieces if necessary
to give a solid, slop-free hold.
If you chose to use magnets, glue those in place now. If you chose
screws, fit the hatch in place, then using the two pre-cut holes in
the front of the hatch as a guide, drill through the H2A pieces with
a 1/16” bit, and harden the wood with a bit of thin CA. Use two
supplied 2-56 x 3/4” self tapping screws.
Step 111 - Optional wing struts
The full-scale Curtiss
Robin featured wing
struts as necessary
structural pieces. In
the Robinhood 25,
they are optional.
If you would like to
incorporate them, they are made from the remaining two lengths
of 3/16” x 3/8”x 25” basswood. On the prototype model, the front
struts were cut to 14” long and the rear struts to 13.5”. Measure,
cut and trim as necessary to fit your model.
The included flexible plastic straps should be attached to both
ends of each strut so that half of each strap extends past the end
of the strut. Note that the strap that attaches to the wing is fixed to
the top face of the strut, while the fuselage strap is attached to the
bottom face. Mark the position of each mounting hole, drill with a
1/16” bit, and harden the wood with a bit of thin CA.
Attach the straps using the supplied 2-56 x 3/4” self tapping
screws. Grind off the excess of the screw so it’s flush with the strut
for a clean look - as shown here:
There are already 4-40 t-nuts in position on the underside of the
wing from back in Step 4. Using the included 4-40 x 3/4” bolts,
attach the top of the struts to these mounting points. (The holes in
the top straps will need to be drilled using a 1/8” bit so the 4-40
bolts can pass through.)
The bottom of the struts attach to the tabs on LG3 and LG6. You’ll
need to drill 1/16” holes, then harden the wood with a bit of thin
CA and attach them with the supplied 2-56 x 3/4” self tapping
screws.
Also, take a bit of time to round the edges of the struts to not only
make them look better, but make them more aerodynamic.
A A
B B
4-40 bolt
wing strut
GRIND screw
flush with strut
GRIND screw
flush with strut
wing strut
FUSELAGE
BOTTOM OF WING 2-56 x 3/4”
self tapping screw
2-56 x 3/4”
self tapping screwS
PLASTIC STRAP
PLASTIC
STRAP
A A
4-40 bolt
wing strut
GRIND screw
flush with strut
GRIND screw
flush with strut
wing strut
FUSELAGE
BOTTOM OF WING 2-56 x 3/4”
self tapping screw
2-56 x 3/4”
self tapping screwS PLASTIC STRAP
PLASTIC
STRAP

Page 14 www.oldschoolmodels.com Construction Manual
Step 112 - Hinge the rudder
Make the necessary slots/holes needed to hinge the rudder to the
stab. We recommend 3 hinges as shown on the plans.
Step 113 - Cut and hinge the ailerons
Measure and cut the correct length and shape for each 1/4” x 1”
strips to make the ailerons. Although not necessary, you can sand
them to a tapered shape if you prefer.
If building a 3ch. model, glue these to the trailing edge to simulate
the shape of the wing. If you are using ailerons (4ch.) round the
leading edge of both ailerons, just as you did the elevator and
rudder. When finished shaping, make the necessary slots/holes
needed to hinge the ailerons to each side of the wing. We
recommend 3 hinges per aileron.
Step 114 - Optional cabin floor.
Using a bit of the leftover 1/16”
sheet, measure and cut to make a
floor between the fuselage sides.
The pieces would rest on the
bottom longerons and span the
distance between LG1 and LG4.
This should be cut so the grain
is crossway (running from the left
to right sides). Check the fit and
when satisfied, glue it into place.
This completes the airframe assembly of the Robinhood 25.
Step 115 - Main gear assembly (prep)
It’s time to assemble the main
landing gear. You’ll find the front
and rear pieces included in the kit.
Place the included nylon landing
gear straps in position - 2 for the
front, 2 for the rear. These straps
are mounted to LG3 and LG6.
Position the gear strut wires so
they are centered on each piece,
then mark and drill 1/16” holes where the straps should mount,
then attach them using the supplied 2-56x3/4” self tapping screws.
Step 116 - Main Gear Assembly (soldering)
With the gear pieces mounted,
rotate the front wire so it is
perpendicular to the fuselage.
Then rotate the back wire so it
meets the front wire as shown
here. Both pieces of wire need
to be lightly sanded and cleaned
where the wires touch, both on
the left and right side.
After cleaning, carefully
and tightly wrap this
joint with wire as shown
here using. We used 26
gauge wire, but other
thicknesses can be used.
Starting on one side,
lightly brush on a bit of
flux over the entire wire-wrap, then use a small torch (or a soldering
iron) to securely older the wire wrap in position, securing the front
and rear landing gear wires into a solid, one piece unit.
When finished, do the same to the other side of the gear and you
should have something like this when finished.
Step 117 - Tailwheel mounting
Mount your choice of tailwheel to the bottom of the fuselage. It
should mount to the bottom of the plywood TW assembly, already
installed.
Step 118 - Aileron servo hatches
From leftover 3/16” x 3/8”
x 36” basswood strip, cut
eight 3/4” pieces. Make a
mounting post by laminating
two pieces, gluing the 3/8”
sides together to make a 3/8
x 3/8” square post. Make 3
similar posts from the remaining
pieces, sanding the ends flat.
Position the aileron servo on
the bottom of the aileron servo
cover so the servo arm output
shaft is centered in the opening.
On the bottom of each aileron
hatch, glue one post on each
side of the servo as shown in
the photo.
Note that the left hatch is a
mirror image of the right hatch.
Now fit the servo hatches into position on the bottom of the wing.
Using the pre-cut holes as a guide, drill four 1/16” mounting holes
into the 3/16” x 3/8”basswood mounting strips installed earlier.
Harden the wood with a bit of thin CA and you can use the attach
the supplied 2-56 x 3/4” self tapping screws to secure them in
place.
Step 119 - Radio and Pushrod Installation
Although you can install the radio
after covering your model, we
find it easier to get everything
in place before covering. This
way you have unblocked access
inside the fuselage and wings to
get the servos, extensions, and
pushrods in place.
Shown here are several photos
with sample installations in the
wing and fuselage.
Make sure that when installing
the control horns, they
are placed in-line with the
pushrods, and that the line of
holes where the clevises attach
are positioned over the hinge
line.
For the average pilot, we
recommend that clevises are

Construction Manual www.oldschoolmodels.com Page 15
Glow power
The engine mounts so the crankshaft is
positioned at the center of the firewall.
Holes will need be drilled for the throttle
pushrod and fuel lines to pass through
into the fuselage.
Step 121 - Covering
Now it is time to cover the Robinhood 25. Remove the powerplant,
main gear, the tailwheel, pushrods, and any other components that
would get in the way of applying the covering.
Double check that all surfaces are smooth and ready to cover. Sand
as necessary, then cover the entire airframe with the covering/finish
of your choice.
Note that if you’re powering with an electric motor, you’ll need to
make an hole for the cooling air to escape the rear of the fuselage.
We choose to cut the covering away in this area, on the underside
of the fuselage.
When the covering is complete, re-attach all the components you
removed earlier in this step.
Logos, numbers, etc.
If you want to use graphics similar to the
ones we used, Old School Model Works
has teamed up with Callie Graphics as a
supplier for pre-cut vinyl. They are a very
well known provider of custom graphics
for R/C models.
We have supplied them with the artwork
needed to cut the correct size logos. You can order straight from
them, choosing the colors that work for you.
Contact Callie Graphics at this link: https://callie-graphics.com or scan
the QR code on the previous page.
Note that Callie Graphics is not affiliated with Old School Model
Works, nor does Old School Model Works generate any income
from this partnership.
Step 122 - Attach the Control Surfaces
Now is the time to attach all the control surfaces to the airframe, by
gluing the hinges in position.
attached to the outermost hole
on each control horn.
Finish the installation of your
radio gear by adding the receiver,
flight pack battery and the switch.
We mounted the receiver to the
fuselage side using a bit of self-
adhesive hook-and-loop (not
included).
The flight pack battery is installed under the TF and the switch can
be installed on the side of the fuselage where desired.
Step 120 - Power system
Installing your power system of choice is up next. We’ll show photos
for electric and glow installations. Note that these are suggestions
only as your power system might vary from what’s shown here.
We mentioned this earlier, but it bears repeating. Our engine
size recommendation range is a .25 two -stroke or an electric
motor with similar power output ( paired with a 60amp ESC and
3s LiPo). Remember that the Robinhood 25 is a fun-scale model
that is intended to fly at scale-like speeds, so prudent throttle
management should be practiced. While this kit has been flight
tested to exceed normal use, if this model will be used for
extremely high stress flying, such as racing, or if a power system
larger than one in the recommended range is used, the modeler is
responsible for taking steps to reinforce the high stress points and/
or substituting hardware more suitable for the increased stress.
Electric power
The motor mounts to the
center of the firewall and
a hole will need be drilled
to allow the wires to pass
through into the fuselage.
Also a few cooling holes
are needed for internal
battery cooling.
The ESC mounts
underneath the TF battery
tray and the motor’s power battery mounts to the tray. Both the
ESC and battery are held in place with more self-adhesive hook-
and-loop.

Page 16 www.oldschoolmodels.com Construction Manual
Step 123 - Attach wheels. Use the included 1/8” i.d. wheel
collars to hold each wheel (not included) on the axles (one on each
side of the wheel). For a maintenance free installation, file a small
flat on the axle where the set screw of the wheel collar touches.
Also use a touch of thread-locking compound to keep the screw
from loosening over time.
Step 124 - Windows. Finishing the assembly of the RH25 are
the windows. On the fuselage plans we have included a template for
the side windows and the front windscreen. Cut the windows from
the included plastic sheet, making sure to cut it slightly oversize
then trim as necessary. Attach each window to the fuselage with
canopy glue.
This completes the assembly of the Robinhood 25 fuselage.
Now you’ll need to adjust the control throws and check for
balance.
Step 125 Recommended C.G. setting:
An important part of preparing the aircraft for flight is properly
balancing the model. This is especially important because of the
various motor/battery combinations that can be used.
CAUTION! DO NOT SKIP THIS STEP!
The recommended Center of Gravity (CG) location for the RH25 is
measured back 2.7” from the leading edge of the wing, and you’ll
see this marked on the fuselage plan with this symbol.
If necessary, move the battery, receiver,
and/or add weight to either the nose
or the tail until the correct balance is
achieved. Stick-on weights are available at
your local hobby store and work well for
this purpose.
Recommended Control Throws:
The amount of control throw should be adjusted as closely as
possible using mechanical means, rather than making large
changes electronically at the radio.
By moving the position of the clevis at the control horn toward
the outermost hole, you will decrease the amount of control throw
of the control surface. Moving it toward the control surface will
increase the amount of throw. Moving the pushrod wire at the
servo arm will have the opposite effect: Moving it closer to center
will decrease throw, and away from center will increase throw.
Work with a combination of the two to achieve the closest or exact
control throws listed.
Aileron 1/2” up/down
Elevator 1/2” up/down
Rudder 3/4” left/right
(Expert tip: Once the control throws have been set, cut a few pieces of
medium silicone fuel tubing (or heat shrink tubing) to go around each
of the clevises. This will keep them from opening during flight.)
Preflight:
Charge both the transmitter and receiver pack for your airplane.
Use the recommended charger supplied with your particular radio
system, following the instructions provided with the radio. In most
cases, the radio should be charged the night before going out
flying.
Check the radio installation and make sure all the control
surfaces are moving correctly (i.e. the correct direction and with
the recommended throws). Test run the engine and make sure it
transitions smoothly from idle to full throttle and back. Also ensure
the engine is tuned according to the manufacturer’s instructions,
and it will run consistently and constantly at full throttle when
adjusted.
Check all the control horns, servo horns and clevises to make
sure they are secure and in good condition. Replace any items
that would be considered questionable. Failure of any of these
components in flight would mean the loss of your aircraft.
Range check your radio before flying
Before each flying session, range check your radio. This is
accomplished by turning on your transmitter with the antenna
collapsed. Turn on the radio in your airplane, but do not attach the
arming switch.
With your airplane on the ground, you should be able to walk 30
paces away from your airplane and still have complete control of
all functions.
If not, don’t attempt to fly! Have your radio equipment checked
out by the manufacturer.
Warranty Information
Old School Model Works guarantees this kit to be free from
defects in both material and workmanship at the date of purchase.
This warranty does not cover any parts damage by use or
modification. In no case shall Old School Model Works’ liability
exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. Further, Old School
Model Works reserves the right to change or modify this warranty
without notice.
In that Old School Model Works has no control over the final
assembly or material used for the final assembly, no liability shall be
assumed nor accepted for any damage of the final user-assembled
product. By the act of using the product, the user accepts all
resulting liability.
Limit of Liability
In the use of this product, our only obligation shall be to replace
such quantity of the product proven to be defective. The user shall
determine the suitability of the product for his or her intended use
and shall assume all risk and liability in connection therewith.
If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with
the use of this product, the buyer is advised to return this kit
immediately in new and un-opened condition.
For more information on all of our other products, as well as the
latest news from Old School Model Works:
Please check out out website: www.oldschoolmodels.com

Construction Manual www.oldschoolmodels.com Page 17
APPENDIX A

Page 18 www.oldschoolmodels.com Construction Manual