Old School Model Works Robin Hood 80 Instructions for use

CONSTRUCTION
MANUAL
www.oldschoolmodels.com
Using the Manual
Be sure to read each step thoroughly before
you start the step. Test-fit the parts together
to make sure they fit properly. If necessary
trim to fit.
Beside each step you will notice a check
box (or two). These are so you can keep
track of your progress while building your
kit. For steps that have two boxes, as in the
construction of the left and right wing halves,
these steps must be performed two times.
• Your Old School Model Works aircraft should not be
considered a toy, but rather a sophisticated, working
model that functions very much like a full-size airplane.
Because of its performance capabilities, this model, if not
assembled and operated correctly, could possibly cause
injury to yourself or spectators, and damage to property.
• You must assemble this model according to the
instructions. Do not alter or modify this model, as doing
so may result in an unsafe or un-flyable model. In a few
cases the instructions may differ slightly from the photos.
In those instances the written instructions should be
considered as correct.
• You must take time to build straight, true and strong.
• You must use a R/C radio system that is in first-
class condition, a correctly sized power system and
components (electronics, batteries, wheels, etc.)
throughout the building process.
• You must correctly install all R/C and other components
so that the model operates correctly on the ground
and in the air. (Installation shown in the manual is a
suggestion. You may have to adjust the mounting steps
to accommodate the size of your radio equipment.)
• You must check the operation of the model before every
flight to insure that all equipment is operating and that
the model has remained structurally sound. Be sure to
check clevises or other connectors often and replace
them if they show any signs of wear or fatigue.
• If you are not an experienced pilot or have not flown this
type of model before, we recommend that you get the
assistance of an experienced pilot in your R/C club for
your first flights. If you’re not a member of a club, your
local hobby shop has information about clubs in your
area whose membership includes experienced pilots.
• While this kit has been flight tested to exceed normal
use, if this model will be used for extremely high stress
flying, such as racing, or if a power system larger than
one in the recommended range is used, the modeler is
responsible for taking steps to reinforce the high stress
points and/or substituting hardware more suitable for the
increased stress.
Remember: Take your time and follow
the instructions to end up with a well-
built model that is straight and true.
Specifications: Wingspan: 80 in. • Wing Area: 1120 sq in.
Airframe Length: 58 in. • Weight: 4.5 lbs. (framed), 8-10 lbs.(rtf)

Page 2 www.oldschoolmodels.com Construction Manual
WARNING
READ THROUGH THIS MANUAL
BEFORE STARTING CONSTRUCTION.
IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT WARNINGS
AND INSTRUCTIONS CONCERNING
THE CONSTRUCTION AND USE OF THIS
MODEL.
A Radio-Controlled aircraft is not a toy!
If misused, it can cause serious bodily harm
and damage to property. Fly only in open
areas, preferably at AMA (Academy of Model
Aeronautics) approved flying sites, following all
instructions included with your radio, powerplant,
electronics and batteries.
We urge you to join the AMA (Academy of Model Aeronautics) and
a local R/C club. The AMA is the governing body of model aviation
and membership is required to fly at AMA clubs.
Though joining the AMA provides many benefits, one of the
primary reasons to join is liability protection.
Additionally, training programs and instructors are available at
AMA club sites to help you get started the right way. There are
over 2,500 AMA chartered clubs across the country. Contact the
AMA at the address or toll-free phone number below:
Academy of Model Aeronautics
5161 East Memorial Drive • Muncie, IN 47302
Phone [phone] • www.modelaircraft.org
IMPORTANT!!! Two of the most important things you
can do to preserve the radio controlled aircraft hobby are to avoid
flying near full-scale aircraft and avoid flying near or over groups
of people.
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including lead, which
is known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other
reproductive harm. For more information go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
INCLUDED ITEMS
Wood parts included in this kit:
• 2 - LP1 - Laser Cut 1/8” x 6” x 24” sheet
• 2 - LP2 - Laser Cut 1/8” x 6” x 24” sheet
• 1 - LP3 - Laser Cut 1/8” x 6” x 24” sheet
• 1 - LP4 - Laser Cut 1/8” x 6” x 24 sheet
• 1 - LP5 - Laser Cut 1/8” x 6” x 24” sheet
• 1 - LP6 - Laser Cut 1/8” x 6” x 24” sheet
• 1 - LP7 - Laser Cut 1/8” x 6” x 24” sheet
• 1 - LP8 - Laser Cut 1/8” x 6” x 24” sheet
• 1 - LP9 - Laser Cut 1/8” x 6” x 24” sheet
• 1 - LP10 - Laser Cut 1/8” x 6” x 24” sheet
• 2 - BP1 - Laser Cut 1/8” x 4” x 24” sheet
• 2 - BP2 - Laser Cut 1/8” x 4” x 24” sheet
• 2 - BP3 - Laser Cut 1/8” x 4” x 24” sheet
• 2 - BP4 - Laser Cut 1/8” x 4” x 24” sheet
• 2 - BP5 - Laser Cut 1/8” x 4” x 24” sheet
• 2 - BP6 - Laser Cut 1/8” x 4” x 24” sheet
• 2 - BP7 - Laser Cut 1/8” x 4” x 24” sheet
• 2 - BP8 - Laser Cut 3/32” x 4 x 24 sheet
• 2 - BP9 - Laser Cut 3/32” x 4 x 24 sheet
• 2 - 1/16” x 4” x 24” balsa sheet (uncut)
• 3/16” x 3/16” x 36” (8 pieces)
• 1/4” x 1/4” x 36” balsa strips (17 pieces)
• 1/4” x 1/2” x 36” balsa strips (5 pieces)
• 1/4” x 1” x 36” balsa strips (4 pieces)
• 3/16” x 3/8” x 36” basswood strips (9 pieces)
• 3/8” x 3/8” x 36” basswood strips (11 pieces)
• 1 - 1/4”x 6” wooden dowel.
Hardware parts included in this kit:
• 1 - Pre-bent landing gear (front)
• 1 - Pre-bent landing gear (rear)
• C/A type hinges for control surfaces
• 4 - control horns
• 4 - wheel collars 3/16” I.D.
• 4 - plastic landing gear straps
• 5 - 2-56 x 3/4” machine screws
• 20 - 2-56 x 3/4” self tapping screws
• 12 - 4-40 x 1/2” socket head cap screws
• 8 - 4-40 lock nuts
• 4 - 4-40 t-nuts (blind nuts)
• 16 steel straps
Other items included in this kit:
• 4 - Rolled plans (2 fuselage and 2 wing)
• 1 - Construction Manual
• 2 - OSMW sticker sheet
ITEMS NEEDED
Hardware needed (not included in the kit)
For some of these items there is more than one option which will
require a bit of decision making ahead of time. There isn’t a right or
a wrong choice, so choose the items that work best for you.
Resist the urge to overpower the Robinhood and remember that it
is a fun-scale model intended to fly at scale-like speeds, so prudent
throttle management should be practiced.
Here is a list of additional parts needed to complete and fly this
kit, all of which must be purchased separately. Again, we would
recommended supporting your local hobby shop.
• Powerplant:
Glow (.90-.1.50 engine, fuel tank, fuel tubing)
Gas (20cc engine, fuel tank, fuel tubing)
Electric (equivalent brushless motor, ESC, & batteries)
• Propeller

Construction Manual www.oldschoolmodels.com Page 3
• Engine/Motor mount and mounting hardware
• Receiver - (4 channel minimum)
• 5 standard sized servos (4 if electric)
• “Y” servo harness and aileron servo wire extensions.
• Pushrods (two 5” for ailerons, two 30” for elevator & rudder,
one 12” for throttle if glow/gas powered)
• Clevises for the pushrods (8 if electric, 10 if glow). Heavy duty
4-40 hardware is recommended.
• 2 - 5” diameter wheels
• 1 - tailwheel assembly
• Covering
Additional Required Building Tools and Adhesives
• Drill & assorted drill bits
• Hobby knife and new, sharp blades
• Sandpaper: coarse (80 or 100 grit) & medium (150-200 grit)
• Pencil or pen
• Ruler
• String (18” length)
• T-Pins
• Waxed paper
• Building board
• 6 and 30 minute epoxy
• Adhesives of your choice. We recommend thin and medium
CA (cyanoacrylate) viscosities
• Epoxy brushes and mixing sticks
• Threadlocking compound
• Torch or soldering iron, solder and flux
• Canopy glue
Before Starting Assembly
Closely inspect the supplied laser cut parts for damage. If you find
any damaged or missing parts, contact us immediately.
When removing the laser cut parts from their sheets, you’ll notice
the parts are held in place by several small “tabs”. These tabs
are uncut pieces of wood and can sometimes make it difficult to
remove a part. Rather than breaking and/or splintering the wood
by forcing out the part, we recommend removing any laser cut
parts from their sheets by using a hobby knife with a new, sharp
blade. A quick cut of the tab will allow the piece to be removed
with no damage. Sand any tab remainders flush with the part so
there will be no problem aligning them later.
It’s best to not remove parts from their sheets until they are needed.
Refer to Appendix A of this manual as a reference to what all the
laser cut parts look like and are called.
For each step, we highly recommend that you dry fit the parts in
each step first. Lightly sand as needed to ensure a good fit. Once
you’re satisfied with the fit, then and only then, glue the parts in
position.
IT IS VERY IMPORTANT THAT YOU ASSEMBLE THIS
ROBINHOOD 80 KIT IN THE ORDER DESCRIBED. SKIPPING
FORWARD IN THE STEPS COULD LEAVE YOU WITHOUT THE
PROPER LENGTHS OF WOOD TO FINISH THE KIT.
WE’VE INCLUDED ENOUGH WOOD TO EASILY COMPLETE
THIS KIT, BUT YOU MUST TAKE CARE TO PROPERLY
MEASURE AND NOT WASTE WOOD WHEN CUTTING.
Let’s begin construction by working on the right (starboard)
wing of your Robinhood 80.
Prepare your work area
You’ll need a flat building surface that is a minimum of 40” long.
Position the starboard wing plan over the surface and tape into
position. Tear off a length of waxed paper long enough to cover
the left wing plan and tape that into position, over the plan.
Step 1 - Struts
This might seem like a strange
first step in this build, but we ask
you to do this for a reason. It’s
to guarantee that you’ll have the
proper lengths of 3/16 x 3/8”
basswood.
So, gather four pieces of 3/16”
x 3/8” and eight 3/16” square
balsa sticks. Cut a 25-1/4” length
from each piece and set the short
pieces aside to use in other steps.
Take one 3/16” x 3/8” basswood piece and lay it on your board.
Glue one of the 3/16” balsa sticks to each side of the basswood as
shown here to make one strut assembly.
To aid in keeping these pieces straight, hold the pieces against a
long straight-edge, such as a metal yard stick, while the glue cures.
Make 4 struts, then set them aside for much later on in the build.
Step 2 - Alignment triangles
Pre-cut into LP7 are two
triangles, one inside the
other. These can be used
to vertically align any of the
parts in the construction of
your Robinhood 80. LP7 also
includes two foot pieces that
can be used with the triangles
to hold both triangles vertical
hands-free.
We recommend using the smaller triangle in the wing construction
as it’s small enough to fit between the ribs.
Closely inspect the supplied laser cut parts for damage. If you find
any damaged or missing parts, contact us immediately.
Online Supplementary Photos
We realize that the smaller black-and-
white photos in this manual might not
show some of the steps as clearly as
you might want. So we’ve anticipated
this and made these photos available
on our website. You can either scan the
QR code or type this address into your
browser:
www.oldschoolmodels.com/mpics/rh80/

Page 4 www.oldschoolmodels.com Construction Manual
Step 3 - Lower spar
Locate one of the 3/8” square
basswood strips. This will be
the lower spar. Position over
the plan, measure the length
and cut, leaving an extra 1/4”
or so past the R1 position.
Then tack-glue this piece to
the waxed paper to hold it in
place using a few small drops
of medium CA instead of t-pins. Be sure it is aligned properly and is
straight over it’s entire length. The alignment of this spar is critical
as the rest of the wing panel is based off this single piece.
Step 4 - Wing Assembly (outer wing tip)
The wing panels are
constructed from the
outside (tips), in towards
the center (root).
Remove parts R8A from
BP3 and R8B from BP2.
These pieces fit
together as shown here.
When satisfied with the fit, glue them together.
Step 5 - Wing Assembly (outer wing tip)
Locate R8 from BP2 and
T1, T2, T3, T4 and T5
from BP5. The T1-T5
braces will slide into the
notches on the R8A/B
assembly from the last
step. Pay attention so
these are in the correct
order.
Then gently slide this sub-assembly into the notches in the R8A/B
assembly from the last step. When satisfied with the fit, glue them
together.
Step 6 - Wing Assembly (attach R8 assembly)
Position the R8 assembly
in position. Make sure it
is vertical and pin the rear
tab to the building board.
Do not glue yet.
Remove one WF4 from
BP8 and one WB4 from
BP9. These sheer web
pieces have a small circle
etched into the upper,
outside corner showing the side that should be fitted into the R8
assembly.
Fit as shown and make sure that the tabs completely slide into the
slots in R8 as this will guarantee that R8 is held in vertically. When
satisfied with the fit, glue R8 and WF4 to the bottom spar.
Step 7 - Wing Assembly (attach R6)
Locate one R6 rib from BP2, one WF3 from BP8 and one WB3
from BP9. Position R6 up against the ends of the WB3 pieces from
the last step. Once located properly, pin the rib’s rear tab to the
board, then fit the WF3
and WB3 sheer webs in
place. When satisfied
with the fit and location,
glue these pieces in
place.
Step 8 - Wing Assembly (attach two R7s)
Next you’ll need two R7
ribs from BP1, two WF3
webs from BP8 and two
WB3 webs from BP9.
Position one R7 up
against the ends of the
WB3 webs from the
previous step. Once
located properly, pin
the rear tab to the
board, then fit WF3 and
WB3 in place. When satisfied with the fit and location, glue these
in place. Working your way inward, attach the other R7, WF3 and
WB3 pieces in place.
Step 9 - Wing Assembly (servo hatch rails)
Locate one of the 3/16”
x 3/8” pieces left over
from step 1. Measure
and cut two 4” lengths.
Carefully slide these
into the pre-cut holes in
R7 to create the servo
hatch rails. Glue these
in position.
Step 10 - Wing Assembly (attach R6)
Locate one R6 rib from
BP2, one WF3 from
BP8 and one WB3 from
BP9. Position R6 up
against the ends of the
WB3 pieces from the
last step. Once located
properly, pin the rib’s
rear tab to the board,
then fit the WF3 and
WB3 sheer webs in
place. When satisfied
with the fit and location, glue these pieces in place.
Step 11 - Wing Assembly (attach R5s)
Locate three R5 ribs from BP3 and BP4, two WF3 webs from BP8
one WF2 from BP8 and three WB3 webs from BP9.
Working inward, locate these one at a time using the same
techniques you have used for the previous ribs. Glue one set of R5,

Construction Manual www.oldschoolmodels.com Page 5
WF3 and WB3 in place
before moving on to
the second.
For the third R5, the
WB2 is used as the front
sheer web. It’s etched
circle should point
towards the root of the
wing.
Step 12 - Wing Assembly (attach R4)
Locate one R4 from BP4, and
one WB3 web from BP9.
Attach the R4 and WB3
pieces in place as shown.
Step 13 - Wing Assembly (attach DH2 & DH3)
Locate one DH2 from LP4 and one DH3 from LP9.
Notice that these pieces have a small
circle etched in the upper corner. This
notes the beveled side for the wing
panel’s dihedral and should be pointed
towards the root rib (R2).
Place DH3 in front of the spar and DH2
aft of the spar, with their tabs inserted
fully into the slots in R4.
When satisfied with the position, glue these in place.
Step 14 - Wing Assembly (attach R3B)
Locate one R3B rib from BP4. Position
it as shown, making sure the tab in the
front of the rib is fully inserted into the
slot in DH2.
When satisfied with the position, glue
in place.
Step 15 - Wing Assembly (attach R2)
Locate one R2 rib from BP5
and one WB1 from BP9.
WB1 has an etched circle as
well, showing the side that
should glue to R2.
Position in place as shown
and note that R2 will have a
slight angle when properly
aligned - this is normal. When satisfied with the position, glue
these pieces in place.
Step 16 - Wing Assembly (attach R3A)
Locate one R3A from BP1. This
glues to DH3 as shown here. Makes
sure is straight, then glue into
position.
Step 17 - Wing Assembly (upper spar)
This next part takes a bit of time,
so we recommend against using
an instant setting glue. If you are
using CA, use a thicker formulation
that gives you a bit of working
time.
Measure and cut one of the 3/8”
square basswood strips to use as
the upper spar. Apply glue to the
top of the ribs where they will contact the upper spar.
Working from the tip rib (R8), carefully press the upper spar into
position. This will be a tight fit and might require “wiggling” the
spar from side to side to slip in-between the sheer webs. Be sure to
press the spar completely into the slot in each rib, making it flush
with the sheer webs.
Now wick thin C/A along the spar to sheer web joints along the
entire length of the spar
When fitting the upper spar to make the top of the dihedral box,
be careful not to drip excess glue into the box formed between
R2 and R1.
Step 18 - Wing Assembly (rear upper sub-spar)
Locate one 1/4” square
balsa stick. This is used as
the rear sub-spar. Using the
same technique you did in
the previous step, measure,
cut and glue this piece in
position. Be sure it is glued
to each rib and rear sheer
web.
Step 19 - Wing Assembly (leading edge & sub-spars)
Locate two 1/4” square
balsa sticks. These are
used as the front sub-spars.
Using the same technique
you did the in the previous
steps, measure, cut and
glue these pieces in
position. Also locate one
3/8” square basswood
strip, this will be the
leading edge. Measure, cut and glue this in position. Be sure all
three of these strips are glued to each rib.
Step 20 - Wing Assembly (rear spar)
Locate one of the
1/4” x 1” balsa sticks.
Measure and cut this
to fit in the front
groove cut into the R6
and R7 ribs. It should
be flush with the R8
and R5 ribs as shown.
Make sure this is fully inserted, and when properly in position, glue
in place.

Page 6 www.oldschoolmodels.com Construction Manual
Step 21 - Wing Assembly (aileron leading edge)
Locate remaining 1/4”
x 1” balsa strip from
the previous step as
it now becomes the
leading edge of the
aileron. No need to trim
this as it should be the
proper length if you’ve
measured correctly in the previous step. Center this between the
R5 and R8 ribs, make sure this is fully inserted, and when properly
in position, glue in place.
Step 22 - Wing Assembly (trailing edge)
Locate one 1/4” x 1”
balsa strip. Measure
and cut this to form
the trailing edge of the
wing. This piece should
start at R2, and go in 5
ribs to the last R5. This
piece will glue into the
pre-cut notches at the
end of each of these ribs. If properly positioned it will also be
angled to match the curve of the wing’s top surface. When satisfied
with the position, glue it in place, making sure it is glued to each
of the ribs.
Step 23 - Wing Assembly (R5B)
Locate two R5Bs from BP5 and
the leftover 1/4” x 1” strip from
the previous step.
Most of the pieces of the
Robinhood 80 are notched for
perfect fits, but the R5Bs are not.
These will require you to place
them in the correct position.
As you can see in this diagram,
the R5Bs will glue to the end of
the aileron leading edge (one
on each end of the strip). They
should to be positioned so the
front, angled edge is flush with
the front edge of the 1/4” x 1” aileron leading edge. Also make
sure that both RB5s are parallel with the other ribs.
Step 24 - Wing Assembly (aileron trailing edge)
Locate the leftover 1/4”
x 1” balsa strip that you
cut to make the wing’s
trailing edge. This piece
will be used to create the
aileron’s trailing edge.
It should be cut so it
perfectly fits between the
two R5B pieces you installed in the last step. It should not be a
forced fit that would push the R5B’s out of alignment.
Once cut and positioned, glue it in place, making sure it is attached
to all of the ribs.
Step 25 - Wing Assembly (gussets)
Along the leading and trailing
edges, there are number of G1
gussets to be glued in place.
These gussets can be found
on BP1, BP2, BP3 and BP4.
We found it easiest to
hold these small parts by
“stabbing” them with a hobby
knife and using it to position the gussets while the glue cured.
Step 26 - Wing Assembly (top sheeting)
Using one of the 1/16”
balsa sheets, measure
and cut the sheeting
to cover the openings
between the R2 and R3
ribs.
The design of the R2
and R3 ribs will allow the
sheeting to be flush with
the spars, the leading
edge and trailing edge.
Working on one section at a time, and note that the center gap
(between the main spar and the rear sub-spar) will require a couple
1/16th pieces to be edge joined together to cover the gap.
Once satisfied with the fit, glue each of these sheeting pieces into
position.
Step 27 - Wing Assembly (cut aileron away from wing)
This step will involve
removing the wing panel
from the board, but
before you do, double
check that all the ribs,
webs and spars are
securely and properly
glued to each other.
Now it’s time to lift
the wing panel from
your building board -
removing any pins you have used first!
Flip the wing over and cut the aileron
away from the wing. The preferred place
to cut is in the middle of each back tab -
as shown here.
Step 28 - Wing Assembly (lower front sub-spar)
Locate one 1/4” square balsa
stick. This is used as the lower
front sub-spar. Using the same
technique you did the in past
steps, measure, cut and glue
this in position.
Be this strip is glued to each
rib.
Cut here

Construction Manual www.oldschoolmodels.com Page 7
Step 29 - Wing Assembly (lower rear sub-spar)
Locate one 1/4” square balsa
stick. This is used as the lower
rear sub-spar. Using the same
technique you did the in past
steps, measure, cut and glue
this in position.
Be this strip is glued to each
rib and all of the sheer webs.
Step 30 - Wing Assembly (WH2)
Locate one of the WH2s
from LP10.
This will fit as shown - into
the notch in DH2, as well
as the notches in R2 and
R3.
Glue this in place, making
sure that the pre-cut hole
is closer to R3.
Step 31 - Wing Assembly (WH1)
Locate one of the WH1s
from LP10.
This will fit as shown - into
the notches in R2 and R3.
Glue this in place, making
sure that the pre-cut hole
is closer to R3.
Step 32 - Wing Assembly (bottom sheeting.)
Just as you did with the
top sheeting, it’s time to
sheet the bottom of the
wing to fill in the gaps
between R2 and R3.
Working on one section
at a time and when
satisfied with the fit, glue
each of these sheeting
pieces into position.
Step 33 - Wing Assembly (remove tabs)
Remove the tabs on each of the ribs. Rather than snapping them
off, use a hobby knife (or razor blade) to carefully cut them away to
preserve the airfoil shape of each rib. It’s better to not cut enough
off than cut too much, as the excess will be sanded away in the
next step.
Step 34 - Wing Assembly (sanding)
It’s time to sand the wing to the proper shape. Start with a coarser
grit (80-100) to round the leading edge, shape the trailing edge,
and round the edges of the wing tips. Take care not to remove too
much, too quickly - you can always take more off, but you can’t put
it back on!
On the trailing edge, it will require a bit more shaping.
Switch to a finer grit (150-200) to smooth
out the entire wing.
Step 35 - Wing Assembly (R1)
Locate 1 R1 from LP8 or
LP10. R1 is laminated to
R2 and the surrounding
sheeting, which is now
hopefully sanded smooth
and flat. Although C/A
glue can be used, we
recommend epoxy for
this step.
You should also have a couple of scrap lengths of 3/8” square
basswood stock that could be used as guides to locate R1. If you
do use those as shown here, be very careful not to glue these
pieces into the wing.
Step 36 - Wing Assembly (rear strut mount)
Locate two SS1 pieces from LP7
and one of the steel straps.
On the plans you’ll see the
location for the rear strut mount,
attached to the inner R7 rib.
The straps have 3 holes pre-
stamped into them and the
middle hole is closer to one side
than the other. The strap should
be positioned so the end with
the 2 closer holes is inside the wing, and the other end protruding
from the bottom wing’s surface by a 1/4” to 3/8”. It also should rest
flat against the sheer web and be up against the R7 rib.
Use a drop or two of C/A glue to tack it in position.
Now glue the SS1s in position as shown in the photo. Make sure
that one of the SS1s is flush with the bottom of the wing’s surface.
Once these are in position, mix up a little epoxy and flood the area
between the two SS1s to lock the strap in position.
Step 37 - Wing Assembly (rear strut mount)
After the epoxy has cured from
the previous step, locate two SS1
pieces from LP7 and another of
the steel straps.
On the plans you’ll see the
location for the front strut mount,
attached to the inner R7 rib.
Using the same technique as
before, tack the strap in place,
then glue the SS1s in position as
shown in the photo. Make sure
that one of the SS1s is flush with the bottom of the wing’s surface.
Once these are in position, mix up a little epoxy and flood the area
between the two SS1s to lock the strap in position.
Step 38 - Wing Assembly (panel complete)
This completes the assembly of the starboard wing panel. Now
remove the starboard wing plan from your board and attach the
Sand excess
trailing edge stock.

Page 8 www.oldschoolmodels.com Construction Manual
left (port) wing plan. Now go back to step 3 and repeat the steps
to build the port wing.
Be very careful to make sure you make a mirror image of the wing
tip - not another right tip.
This completes assembly of the Robinhood 80 wing panels.
Now it’s time to start construction of the fuselage.
Prepare your work area
Now tape the fuselage side
plan and a fresh piece of
waxed paper on your building
board. If your building surface
isn’t as long as the plans (our’s
wasn’t either), allow the nose
section to hang off the board.
This won’t cause any problems.
Step 39 - Fuselage Assembly (port front section)
Locate one FS1 and one
FS3 from LP1, one FS2
from LP2, one FS4 from
LP3 and one FS5 from LP6.
These five pieces will
“jigsaw” together to form
a larger piece of plywood
that makes up the forward part of the fuselage’s left side.
One note here. There’s a better than average chance that one or
more of these pieces will have a bow in them. That’s fairly typical of
the wood that we are supplied with and will not cause a problem
if you take your time when assembling these pieces. Also, if you
use C/A, the edges of light ply soak up the glue like a sponge - so
much so that you’ll need to use a bit more than normal to ensure
these pieces are properly attached to each other.
Take your time, fitting two pieces together first, then another, etc.
We found it best to start with the two largest pieces - FS2 and FS3.
Again, take your time and make sure to hold each piece flat while
joining them together.
After this assembly is cured, pin it in position to your building
board.
Step 40 - Fuselage Assembly (longeron)
Locate two 3/8” square
basswood strips. These
will form the upper
and lower longerons.
Measure, cut, pin and
glue into position.
Note that the top
longeron does not completely seat into
the gap on top of the fuselage side. There
needs to be a 3/8” gap for a cross support
that is attached later.
Step 41 - Fuselage Assembly (stab supports)
Locate two P6s and two P8s
from BP6 and BP7.
The two P6s are glued together
to make a thicker piece.
The same is true with the P8s.
In each case, make sure halves are perfectly aligned when gluing
together.
Step 42 - Fuselage Assembly (stab supports)
Glue the P6 assembly in
place, then the P8 assembly.
Step 43 - Fuselage Assembly (rear bracing)
Using 1/4” square balsa
stock, it’s time to make
the inner bracing. Cut
the longest pieces first,
and take care when
measuring and cutting
so you don’t waste
material.
Also don’t forget to cut the piece that butts-up against the rear of
the plywood assembly.
Step 44 - Fuselage Assembly (fuse gussets)
Locate one each of G2-G8 from BP6.
These are used in strategic positions
to strengthen the joints along the
rear of the fuselage.
Using the plan as a guide, glue each
gusset in position.
Step 45 - Fuselage Assembly (fuselage starboard side)
This concludes the assembly of the port fuselage side. Remove
the port side from the board and prepare the board with the right
(starboard) side plan.
Go back to step 39 and complete the same steps to build the
starboard fuselage side. When finished, leave it pinned to the
board, then move on to step 46.
Step 46 - Fuselage Assembly (F7)
Locate F7 from LP7. Glue this in
position as shown on the plans,
making sure it is a right angle to the
fuselage side.
Step 47 - Fuselage Assembly (TRAY, F5 and F6)
Locate TRAY from LP5,
F5 from LP7 and F6 from
LP8.
Slide TRAY into the large
opening in F5 and gently
position F5 so it fits into
the forward slots in TRAY.
Glue these two pieces
together, making sure F5
is at a right angle to TRAY.

Construction Manual www.oldschoolmodels.com Page 9
Once the glue has cured, do the same with F6 positioning it in the
rear slots of TRAY.
Step 48 - Fuselage Assembly (TRAY assembly)
Take the TRAY assembly and
test fit it into the fuselage
side. Start by notching
in the back of the TRAY
into the center notch of
F7. Then slowly work your
way forward to make sure
everything fits as it should,
and all the tabs fit into all the slots.
After satisfied with how this fits, remove it, apply glue and re-insert
it to secure it in position.
It is very important that all of the tabs fit completely into each slot.
Any gaps can weaken the structure.
Step 49 - Fuselage Assembly (F4)
Locate F4 from BP10. It forms
the support for the front
windshield/hatch.
Glue this in position, again
making sure all the tabs are fully
inserted into the side panel’s
notches.
Step 50 - Fuselage Assembly (F3)
Locate F3 from LP6. Locate it in position
on the front of the TRAY assembly and
side notches.
Glue this in position, again making sure
all the tabs are fully inserted into the side
panel’s notches.
Step 51 - Fuselage Assembly (pushrod exit)
Now it’s time to attach the
port side of the fuselage.
We advise doing a test fit to
make sure everything seats
in as it should.
When satisfied with the fit,
remove the side, apply glue
and re-attach the side.
It could be a good idea to
use a few weights to hold
the port side securely and
firmly in place why the glue cures.
Step 52 - Fuselage Assembly
(top cross brace)
Cut the top cross brace from some of the
leftover 3/8” square basswood stock. Glue it
in position as shown.
Step 53 - Fuselage Assembly (bottom cross brace)
Cut the bottom cross brace from some of the
leftover 3/8” square basswood stock. Glue it in
position as shown, underneath F6.
Step 54 - Fuselage Assembly (radio hatch mounts)
Locate two scrap lengths of
3/16” x 3/8” basswood. Measure
and cut them to form the two
radio hatch mounts. These span
from one side of the fuselage to
the other.
Glue them in place as shown.
Step 55 - Fuselage Assembly (LG)
Locate six LGs from LP1, LP2
and LP6. Three of these are
glued together to make a
3/8” high plywood stack, the
other three will make a similar
stack.
Use epoxy to glue these
together and use clamps to
hold them securely and perfectly aligned.
Step 56 - Fuselage Assembly (LG)
Measure and cut 4 lengths of
3/16” x 3/8” basswood the same
length as the LG assemblies.
These are glued in place as shown
to make a 3/16” groove where the
landing gear wire will be inserted.
It may help when gluing these
pieces in place to hold one of
the landing gear wires in place to
guarantee the alignment. But don’t glue the landing gear wire into
place.
Step 57 - Fuselage Assembly (LG)
Glue the LG assemblies
into the bottom of the
fuselage as shown. Make
sure that the landing gear
groove is visible when
viewing the fuselage from
the underside.

Page 10 www.oldschoolmodels.com Construction Manual
Step 58 - Fuselage Assembly (fuselage corners)
Locate the 1/2” square
balsa stick. Then measure
and cut the upper and
lower corners of the front
part of the fuselage.
Glue these in position.
Step 59 - Fuselage Assembly (attach P3, P4)
Locate P3 and P4 from LP4.
These are glued into the slots
of the bottom of the fuselage to
form the fuselage’s floor.
Test fit them first, then remove
and glue in position.
Step 60 - Fuselage Assembly (P5)
Locate P5 from LP4. This is glued
in to form the aft of the fuselage
hatch surround. Test fit it first,
then remove and glue in position.
Step 61 - Fuselage Assembly (attach H2 or H2A)
Using 3/16” x 3/8”
basswood, measure and
cut several pieces to
make the internal window
bracing for the port side
of the fuselage. It’s hard
to see in this small photo,
but also refer to the plans
and to our online photos (see the top of page 3 for info on how to
access those).
Glue all of these braces in position and hold them firmly in place
while the glue cures. When cured, do the same for the starboard
side of the fuse.
Step 62 - Fuselage Assembly (F4 cross brace)
Using 3/16” x 3/8” basswood,
measure and cut the cross
brace to strengthen the top of
F4. Glue in position as shown.
Step 63 - Fuselage Assembly (F7 cross brace)
Using 3/16” x 3/8”
basswood, measure and
cut the cross brace to
strengthen the top of F7.
Glue in position as shown.
Step 64 - (creating rear taper)
Work now moves to the rear of the
fuselage to join the fuselage sides so
they taper together. To do this, you’ll
need to sand away equal amounts on the
insides of both side frames.
Using a ruler and straight-edge, measure
and draw the guides as shown in the
photo (1/2 way on the verticals, tapering
in about 1-1/4” down the fuselage.
These marks will show exactly how much
wood should be sanded away on the
insides of each fuselage side, so they
will taper correctly. Although you can cut this with a saw or hobby
knife, sandpaper makes quick work of this, but use caution not to
remove too much.
Step 65 - Fuselage Assembly (joining rear)
Once the rear
of each side has
been properly
tapered, they
can now be
glued together.
Make sure both sides are in perfect alignment before the glue sets
up.
Step 66 - Fuselage Assembly (TW1)
Locate two TW1s from LP3
and one LP3 from LP6. These
are glue together to make a
3-layer assembly as shown
here. Use epoxy for this step.
Step 67 - Fuselage Assembly (TW1)
The TW1 assembly from
the last step is glued
on the underside of the
fuselage, at the rear,
to form the tailwheel
mounting plate.
Glue this in place as
shown and make sure it
is flush with the bottom
side of the fuselage.
1-1/4”

Construction Manual www.oldschoolmodels.com Page 11
Step 68 - Fuselage Assembly (P7)
Locate both P7s from BP7. Glue
them together to create a thicker
P7 as shown here.
Step 69 - Fuselage Assembly (P7)
Glue the P7 assembly into
the rear of the fuse, on the
top side as shown here.
Be careful not to push in too
far as it will distort the slot.
Step 70 - Fuselage Assembly (top & bottom cross braces)
Using 1/4” square balsa, now
measure, cut and glue in the
upper and lower cross braces for
the back of the fuselage.
There are two lower braces and
three upper braces (one that
butts-up against P7).
Step 71 - Fuselage Assembly (R0 ribs)
Locate both R0 ribs from
BP7. These are glued in
position inside the top of
the fuselage, resting on
the notches cut into F5
and F6.
Make sure these are
vertically aligned and
correctly seated into the notches.
Step 72 - Fuselage Assembly (dihedral brace)
Locate the three DH1s from
LP9. These are stacked on
top of each other to form
the dihedral brace.
Use epoxy and clamps for
this step, making sure that
all three pieces are perfectly
aligned.
Step 73 - Fuselage Assembly (dihedral brace)
Using more of the 3/16”
x 3/8” basswood, make a
top and bottom cap for the
dihedral brace. You’ll need to
make 3 separate sections for
the top and 3 for the bottom
because of the dihedral angle. Epoxy these pieces to the brace.
Step 74 - Fuselage Assembly (dihedral brace & cross braces)
Now it’s time to glue the
dihedral brace into the large
slots of the R0 ribs and fuse
sides. Make sure that the
dihedral brace is exactly
centered on the fuselage and
completely seated in the slot
when gluing in place. Use
epoxy for this.
Now measure and cut the
cross bracing that goes across the center section. There are three
1/4” square balsa pieces and two 3/8” square basswood pieces.
Glue these in place as shown.
Step 75 - Fuselage Assembly (wing attachment points)
Using 3/8” square basswood,
cut four 5-1/2” lengths. Two of
these are used on each side of
the fuselage to create the wing
attachment points. Carefully
slide them into the square
cutouts in the fuselage side and
R0. They should be parallel to the dihedral brace and have a slight
rise (2° angle) that matches the dihedral brace. Also, the right and
left pieces should touch in the middle. When satisfied with the
position and fit, epoxy them in position as shown here.
Step 76 - Fuselage Assembly (center section sheeting)
As you did when sheeting the
wing halves, now it’s time to
sheet the top of the fuselage.
Using 1/16” sheeting, measure
and cut the pieces to fit between
the cross bracing as shown here.
Glue these pieces in place,
making sure they are attached to each of the ribs and the cross
braces.
Step 77 - Fuselage Assembly (center section sheeting)
One small strip of 1/16th is used
to fill in the thin gap underneath
the center section’s leading
edge, as shown here.
Step 78 - Fuselage Assembly (sanding)
Now it’s time for a bit of sanding. Make sure you sand the center
sheeting section smooth and sand off any excess that extends past
the side of the fuselage.
Step 79 - Fuselage Assembly (R1)
Locate two R1s from LP8
and LP10. These are slid
in position on each side
of the center section as
shown. Glue these in
position, making sure
they are completely flat.

Page 12 www.oldschoolmodels.com Construction Manual
Step 80 - Fuselage Assembly (front hatch)
Locate C3 from LP10. Sand
a bevel on the three front
edges as shown here. Place
C3 on your work surface
with the bevels visible as
shown.
Step 81 - Fuselage Assembly (front hatch)
Locate two C2s from LP1 and
C4 from LP10. These are used
to form the windscreen frame.
Glue one C2 to each side of
C3, making sure they are both
vertical and resting on their
back “feet”.
Then glue C4 into the top slots
on the C2 pieces, making sure it
is centered and firmly seated into the slots.
Step 82 - Fuselage Assembly (front hatch)
Cut the two frame pieces from
1/4” square balsa. Trim and
bevel the ends for a good, flush
fit, then glue into position.
When the glue has cured, remove
the completed assembly and trim
the rear “foot” sections from the
C2 pieces.
Step 83 - Fuselage Assembly (front hatch)
Locate C1 from LP3. It is
glued to the hatch assembly
as shown here.
To get the proper alignment
and positioning, the
windscreen assembly should
be centered and the back
edge of C3 should be up
against back edge of C1.
Step 84 - Fuselage Assembly (F2)
Locate F2 from LP3. Glue it to
the front of F3 to thicken up the
firewall. Use epoxy for this step
and be sure to firmly clamp this
piece in position while the glue
cures.
Although not shown in this
pre-production photo, there is
a circle cut into F2 that should
be positioned towards the top
of the fuselage when mounted
(matching the circle cut into F3).
Step 85 - Fuselage Assembly (F1)
Locate F1. It is the 1/4” piece of aircraft
ply, separate from the rest of the wood
pieces. Try as we might, there’s just no way
our laser could properly cut through this
thickness so, this piece is hand-cut and
more often than not, it will fit as designed.
However there are times where it might
require a little sanding to fit properly. After
sanding to fit, glue it to the front of F2 to complete the thickened
firewall. Use epoxy for this step and be sure to firmly clamp this
piece in position while the glue cures.
Step 86 - Fuselage Assembly (radial or in-line)
Now you have a choice to make. Do you
want your Robinhood 80 to have the look
of an in-line engine or a flattened off
firewall for a radial engine style?
If you want a radial engine look, then it is
time to remove the two plywood cheeks
from the fuselage sides and the 1/2”
square balsa that extends forward past
the firewall. This should be cut away and
sanded flat with the firewall.
If you’d rather have the in-line look, then
locate P1 from LP7.
It is glued so it is flush with the top edges
of the fuselage as shown here.
We recommend cutting a couple lengths
of leftover 3/16“ square balsa strips to
strengthen the joints between P1 and the
1/2” square strips.
Step 87 - Fuselage Assembly (P2/P3 support)
This is another step where it’s impossible
to laser cut alignment tabs and notches, so
you’ll need to measure and eyeball this.
You’ll need to cut and glue in a thin length
of 1/8” ply to make a lip used to locate a
part in the next step.
From LP4, cut away a length of plywood
that ‘s about 3/8” wide by 4 to 4-1/4” long.
This will be glued to the front
edge of the forward landing
gear block, 1/8” in from the
bottom surface.
Take a bit of time to make sure
this piece is glued in straight
as it could cause alignment
problems in the next step.
Step 88 - Fuselage Assembly (P2A/P2B)
Locate P2B from LP8 and P3A from
LP7.
These are glued together as shown to
form a single sheet.
TW1
TW1
FS4
FS4
F2 C1
DH2
DH2
P5
P3P4
LP4
LP3
Use this
strip

Construction Manual www.oldschoolmodels.com Page 13
Step 89 - Fuselage Assembly (P2)
Glue the P2 assembly in
place on the underside of the
fuselage as shown.
Now it’s time to start construction of the tail surfaces.
Prepare your work area
Position the horizontal stab /elevator plan side over the surface
and tape into position and cover with waxed paper.
Step 90 - Stab (S1 and S2)
Locate the four S1s from BP6
and the four S2s from sheet
BP7. Carefully stack two S1s
and glue them together to form
a single 1/4” thick S1, then do
the same for the remaining S1s.
Take two of the S2s, stack and
glue them to form a single 1/4”
thick S2. Do the same with the remaining S2 pieces.
Step 91 - Stab (outer framing)
The two S1 assemblies
should be pinned in
place and glued to each
other. The S2 assemblies
should be pinned in
place next. Measure two
lengths of 1/4 x 1/2” balsa to make the leading and trailing edges
of the stab. Glue all of these pieces together.
It can make things easier to line up by using a long straight-edge
as we’ve done in this photo.
Step 92 - Stab (inner framing)
Using 1/4” square balsa, cut
and glue in the inner framing
of the stab. First one side,
then the other.
When the glue has cured,
remove the stab from the
board.
Step 93 - Elevator (S3 and S4)
Locate the four S3’s and the four
S4s from sheet BP7. Carefully
stack two S3’s and glue them
together to form a single 1/4”
thick S3, then do the same for
the remaining S3s. Take two of
the S4s, stack and glue them to
form a single 1/4” thick S4. Do
the same with the remaining S4
pieces.
Step 94 - Elevator (leading edge)
The two S3 and two S4
assemblies should be pinned
in place. Measure two lengths
of 1/4 x 1/2” balsa to make
the leading edges of the stab.
Glue all of these pieces in
place.
Again, it can make things easier to line up by using a long straight-
edge as we’ve done in this photo.
Step 95 - Elevator (trailing edge and inner framing)
Using 1/4” square balsa, cut
and glue in the inner framing
of the elevator halves, first
one side, then the other.
Locate left over G1s from BP1-
4 and glue them into the rear
outer corner as shown here.
Step 96 - Elevator (joiner)
Measure and cut the elevator
joiner to length from the included
1/4” dowel. You will also need to
cut notches into the leading edges
of the elevator halves. When satisfied with the fit, glue the joiner
in position.
Prepare your work area
Position the horizontal stab /elevator plan side over the surface
and tape into position and cover with waxed paper.
Step 97 - Vertical Fin/Rudder (RD1, RD2, RD3 and RD4)
Locate the two RD1s, two RD2s,
two RD3s and two RD4s from
BP6. Carefully stack two RD1s
and glue them together to form
a single 1/4” thick RD1, then
do the same for the remaining
RD2s, RD3s and RD4s.
Step 98 - Vertical Fin/Rudder (outer framing)
Pin RD1 and RD2 in position.
Measure and cut 1/4” x 1/2” strips
to create the other framing of the
vertical fin. Glue these in place.
Then pin RD3 and RD4 in position.
Measure two more lengths to form
the rudder frame. Do not glue the
elevator to the rudder.
Step 99 - Vertical Fin/Rudder (internal framing)
Measure and cut the fin’s internal
ribs from a 1/4” square strip. Take
care to match the angles for a
good fit. Pin these in position and
glue into place.

Page 14 www.oldschoolmodels.com Construction Manual
Step 100 - Tail surfaces (sanding)
Once the glue has set, remove the finished vertical fin and rudder
from the plans. Now take the time to sand the horizontal stabilizer,
elevator, vertical fin and rudder pieces. The leading edge of each
piece should be rounded. Slowly work this rounded edge around
the tips of the stab and elevator, as well as the vertical fin and
rudder.
Step 101 - Wing (test fitting)
This next step is going to require a
bit of space as you’ll be test fitting
the wings to the fuselage for the
first time.
Chances are the wings will not
slide into position without a bit of
sanding. First make sure that the dihedral slot in the wing is clear
of debris, glue, etc. Now, little by little, sand the dihedral brace to
slowly give you a slop-free fit that will allow the wing half to slide
on and off with not too much effort.
You’ll probably need to sand more off the top/bottom edges than
the sides. Regardless, make sure you take a little off both sides,
not just one.
When the wing halves are able to be slid in position, slide them on
to the fuselage and then move on to the next step.
Step 102 - Stab (installation)
Now it’s time to install the stab.
First, make sure it will slide into it’s
rear slot. If it’s a bit snug, lightly
sand the slot until you have a good,
slop-free fit.
Once the stab is in position, it’s time
to make sure it’s properly aligned.
Step 103 - Fuselage Assembly (level stab)
Look at the
fuselage straight
on, from the nose
(or tail) and make sure that the stab is level with the wings. If not,
remove the stab and gently sand the stab supports a little at time.
Check the stab and re-sand the supports if needed.
Step 104 - Fuselage Assembly (attach stab)
Once leveled, ensure that the
stab is aligned in the center of
the fuselage. This can be done
by aligning the center cutout
in the stab with the opening in
the top of the fuselage. Once
these two openings line up,
the stab should be perfectly
aligned.
To be absolutely sure, insert
the vertical fin down through
the top fuselage slot, into the stab opening (this might require a
bit of sanding on the fin for easy sliding). Once the fin is properly
seated, measure the angle between the fin and stab. If at 90°, then
it’s correct. If not, reposition as needed.
Draw a line on the stab where it meets the fuselage, then remove
the stab, fin and wings from the fuselage.
Step 105 - Fuselage Assembly (attach stab)
Mix up a little bit of epoxy and glue the stab to the fuselage,
making sure to align it up to the marks you made earlier.
Step 106 - Fuselage Assembly (elevator hinging)
The elevator will be a captive piece once the vertical fin is installed
in the next step, now is the time to make the necessary slots/holes
needed to hinge the elevator to the stab. We recommend 4 hinges,
2 per side. DO NOT GLUE THE HINGES IN AT THIS POINT. Once
hinged, you might also want to cover the elevator and stab with
the covering material of your choice. It’s certainly not mandatory,
but it is easier to cover before it is held captive to the fuselage.
Step 107 - Fuselage Assembly (attach vertical fin)
Align and glue the vertical
fin in place, making sure to
also glue on the trailing edge
where it meets the back of
the fuselage. Be careful not to
get any glue on the elevator
joiner. Insure the fin is a
perfect 90° to the stab.
Step 108 - Fuselage Assembly (rudder hinging)
Now make the necessary slots needed to hinge the rudder to the
vertical fin. We recommend 3 hinges. DO NOT GLUE THE HINGES
IN AT THIS POINT.
Step 109 - Wing Assembly (drill wing mounts)
Slip one of the wing halves
back on and flip the airframe
on it’s top. Make sure that
the wing is firmly seated
against the fuselage and
drill two 5/32” holes. One
through the pre-cut hole in
WH1 and WH2. You only
want to drill through the
3/8” wing mount, no further.
Do this for the other wing half as well.
Step 110 - Wing Assembly (t-nuts)
Remove the wings then flip the fuselage
the right way up. Tap one 4-40 blind nut
(from the hardware bag) into each of
the 4 holes you drilled. Make sure they
are completely seated into the mounts
as shown here. A drop or two of CA
around the nut’s edge will help hold it
securely in place.
Step 111 - Fuselage Assembly (forward strut mounts)
Locate two SS2 pieces from LP7 and
two of the steel straps.
On the plans you’ll see the location for
the fuselage’s forward strut mounts and
there is a pre-cut slot for it on each side
of the fuselage..
The straps have 3 holes pre-stamped
into them and the middle hole is closer
A A
A A
B B

Construction Manual www.oldschoolmodels.com Page 15
gear wires into a solid, one piece unit.
When finished, do the same to the other side of the gear and you
should have something like this when finished.
Step 115 - Airframe Assembly (struts)
Remember the four wing struts
blanks you made back in step 1?
Well, now it’s time to finish those.
To start, locate one of the blanks,
and one of the metal straps.
Mark and cut a slot into one end
of the strut blank as shown here.
The slot should be roughly 1-1/4” long and the width of the metal
strap’s thickness. Now do the same thing for the other three blanks
- but only on one end. Leave the other ends untouched for now.
Mix up a little epoxy and glue each strap in place, making sure
they are all on a flat surface with waxed paper. You’ll need to use
enough to make fillets between the strap and the wood. Don’t
glob in on, but make sure there’s a good, strong bond to hold the
strap in place.
Once the glue has cured, measure and cut a similar slot into the
other end of each strut, BUT TO NOT GLUE IN THE STRAPS yet.
Step 116 - Airframe Assembly (struts)
With the fuselage upright, slide one of the wing halves onto the
fuselage and secure it in place with the two 4-40 bolts.
Take one of the struts from the previous step and temporarily
attach it to one of the wing strut mounts with a 4-40 bolt. Locate
one of the unused straps and attach it to the corresponding strut
mount on the fuselage. Raise the strut into position so that the
strap goes into the slot you cut. Making sure it is held in perfect
alignment, tack this strap to the strut with a just a touch of medium
CA. Once the glue has cured, move on to the next strut position
and do the same thing for the other 3 struts.
After all four are in place you can remove the struts from the
airframe, (one at a time) and epoxy these straps in place like you
did in the previous step.
Mark them as to their position (left-front, left-rear, right-front or
right-rear). The reason you should mark each strut is that regardless
of how carefully you measured everything to this point, there will
be slight differences in the lengths of each strut. Marking them
now will save a lot of time and guesswork later.
Step 117 - Airframe Assembly (struts - optional)
We have found that epoxy is more than enough to hold the straps
in place on each strut, providing you’ve use the proper amount to
securely hold them in place.
However, if you’d like a bit of extra strength, you can wrap the ends
of each with a thin strip (1”) of fiberglass cloth then use epoxy to
secure it in place. This fiberglass cloth is not included, but should
be readily available at your local hobby store.
Step 118 - Aileron servo hatches
From leftover 3/16” x 3/8”
x 36” basswood strip, cut
eight 3/4” pieces. Make a
mounting post by laminating
two pieces, gluing the 3/8”
sides together to make a 3/8
x 3/8” square post. Make 3
to one side than the other. The strap should be positioned so the
end with the 2 closer holes is inside the fuselage, and the other
end protruding from the fuse side by a 1/4” to 3/8”. It also should
rest flat against the 3/8” spruce cross brace.
Use a drop or two of C/A glue to tack both of them in position.
Now glue the SS2s in position as shown in the photo, one for each
steel strap.
Once these are in position, mix up a little epoxy and flood the area
between the SS2s and the fuse side to lock the strap in position.
Step 112 - Fuselage Assembly (rear strut mounts)
Locate two SS3 pieces from LP7 and
two of the steel straps.
On the plans you’ll see the location
for the fuselage’s rear strut mounts
and there is a pre-cut slot for them on
each side of the fuselage.
Insert the straps on each side of the
fuselage with other end protruding
from the fuse side by a 1/4” to 3/8”.
It also should rest flat against the
3/8” spruce cross brace.
Use a drop or two of C/A glue to tack both of them in position.
Now glue the SS3s in position as shown in the photo, one for each
steel strap.
Once these are in position, mix up a little epoxy and flood the area
between the SS3s and the fuse side to lock the strap in position.
Step 113 - Fuse Assembly (landing gear)
It’s time to assemble the main
landing gear. You’ll find the
front and rear pieces included
in the kit.
Place the included nylon
landing gear straps in position
- 2 for the front, 2 for the rear.
These straps are mounted to
the grooved LG assemblies
on the underside of the fuselage. Position the gear strut wires so
they are centered on each LG, then mark and drill 1/16” holes
where the straps should mount. Attach them using the supplied
2-56x3/4” self tapping screws.
Step 114 - Main Gear Assembly (soldering)
With the gear pieces
mounted, rotate the front
wire so it is perpendicular
to the fuselage. Then rotate
the back wire so it meets the
front wire as shown here. Both
pieces of wire need to be
lightly sanded and cleaned
where the wires touch, both
on the left and right side.
After cleaning, carefully and tightly wrap this joint with wire as
shown here using. We used 26 gauge wire, but other thicknesses
can be used.
Starting on one side, lightly brush on a bit of flux over the entire
wire-wrap, then use a small torch (or a soldering iron) to securely
solder the wire wrap in position, securing the front and rear landing

Page 16 www.oldschoolmodels.com Construction Manual
similar posts from the remaining pieces, sanding the ends flat.
Position the aileron servo on the bottom of the aileron servo covers
so the servo arm output shaft is centered in the opening.
On the bottom of each aileron
hatch, glue one post on each
side of the servo as shown in the
photo.
Note that the left hatch is a
mirror image of the right hatch
and we’ve etched an arrow that
should point towards the front
of the airframe.
Now fit the servo hatches into position on the bottom of the wing.
Using the pre-cut holes as a guide, drill four 1/16” mounting
holes into the 3/16” x 3/8” basswood mounting strips installed
earlier. Harden the wood with a bit of thin CA and you can use the
supplied 2-56 x 3/4” self tapping screws to secure them in place.
Step 119 - Servo rails
Using leftover 3/16” x 3/8”
basswood, measure and cut two
strips that will span across the
TRAY, directly above the lower
hatch. These should be spaced
so your rudder and elevator
servos can be mounted to them.
When satisfied with the fit and
position, glue them in place.
If using a glow or gas engine,
measure and cut 2 more strips.
These will be used for the
throttle servo mount. Mount
one strip on TRAY, just behind
F5, then the other to span between the fuselage sides. It will need
to be spaced for the width of your throttle servo. When satisfied
with the fit and position, glue them in place.
Step 120 - Ailerons (control horn mount)
Each aileron needs a strip of
3/16” x 3/8” basswood glued in
place as shown here. Note the
location of it on the plans, then
measure, cut and glue this in
position for each aileron.
Step 121 - Ailerons (hinge supports)
Use leftover 1/4” x 1/2” balsa
scraps to cut twelve 1” pieces
that will be glued in place for
the aileron hinge supports.
Note the hinge locations on
the plans, then glue the blocks
in place inside the trailing edge
of the wing and inside the leading edge of the ailerons. Do this for
both wing halves.
Step 122 - Airframe Assembly (sanding)
Now take the time to go over the entire airframe and give it a
good, final sanding. Make sure everything is flush and smooth, that
the wings are airfoil shaped along their entire width and everything
is ready for covering.
Step 123 - Ailerons (hinging)
Now it’s time to hinge the ailerons.
Note that the hinges will NOT be
glued in place at this time. This is
simply to cut the slots and hold
the aileron in place temporarily for the next step. Note each of
the hinge positions on the plan, then cut the slots for the aileron
hinges. These hinges installed along the top edge of the aileron as
shown in this diagram.
Step 124 - Control horns
With the ailerons still temporarily in place, also temporarily fit the
rudder in place as it’s time to mount the control horns.
Make sure that when installing the control horns, they are placed
in-line with the pushrods cutouts, and that the line of holes where
the clevises attach are positioned over the hinge line.
Use a 1/16” bit, to drill the proper holes for the aileron horns
as they will be held in with 2-56 x 3/4” self tapping screws, not
requiring the plastic backer.
The rudder and elevator horns are held in with 2-56 x 3/4” machine
screws and will use the plastic backer plates. Drill these slightly
larger with a 3/32” bit.
Step 125 - Tailwheel mounting
Mount your choice of tailwheel to the bottom of the fuselage.
It should mount to the bottom of the plywood TW1 assembly,
already installed.
Step 126 - Radio and Pushrod Installation
Although you can install the
radio after covering your
model, we find it easier to
get everything in place before
covering. This way you have
unblocked access inside the
fuselage and wings to get
the servos, extensions, and
pushrods in place.
Shown here are several photos
with sample installations in the
wing and fuselage.
Finish the installation of your radio
gear by adding the receiver, flight
pack battery and the switch. We
mounted the receiver to the fuselage
side using a bit of self-adhesive
hook-and-loop (not included).
Hinged at top

Construction Manual www.oldschoolmodels.com Page 17
Step 127 - Power system
Installing your power system of
choice is up next. The photo
shown here is for a 20cc gas
installation. Note that this
is only a suggestion as
your power system will
likely vary from what’s
shown here.
Gas/Glow power
The engine mounts so the
crankshaft is positioned
on the thrust line, as
shown on the plans. Holes
will also need be drilled
for the throttle pushrod,
fuel lines (and ignition
pickup wire if gas) to pass through into the fuselage.
Electric power
If choosing electric power, the motor should mount with it’s shaft
on the thrust line as shown on the plans.
A few cooling holes will need to be cut into the firewall as they are
needed for internal battery cooling. Exit holes further back of the
fuselage also need to be cut.
Power batteries are mounted to the TRAY and the ESC can be
mounted below the tray.
Both the ESC and battery should be held in place with more self-
adhesive hook-and-loop.
We mentioned this earlier, but it bears repeating. Our engine size
recommendation range is a 20cc gas, .90-1.50 glow or an electric
motor with similar power output. Remember that the Robinhood
80 is a fun-scale model that is intended to fly at scale-like speeds,
so prudent throttle management should be practiced. While this
kit has been flight tested to exceed normal use, if this model will
be used for extremely high stress flying, such as racing, or if a
power system larger than one in the recommended range is used,
the modeler is responsible for taking steps to reinforce the high
stress points and/or substituting hardware more suitable for the
increased stress.
Step 128 - Covering
Now it is time to cover the Robinhood 80. Remove the powerplant,
main gear, the tailwheel, pushrods, and any other components that
would get in the way of applying the covering.
Double check that all surfaces are smooth and ready to cover. Sand
as necessary, then cover the entire airframe with the covering/finish
of your choice.
Note that if you’re
powering with an electric
motor, you’ll need to
make a hole for the
cooling air to escape the rear of the fuselage. We choose to add a
length of 1/4” square balsa scrap about an 1” in front of the TW1
(underside of fuse). This creates a smaller area where the covering
can be cut away for a vent.
When the covering is complete, re-attach all the components you
removed earlier in this step.
Logos, numbers, etc.
If you want to use graphics similar to the
ones we used, Old School Model Works
has teamed up with Callie Graphics as a
supplier for pre-cut vinyl. They are a very
well known provider of custom graphics
for R/C models.
We have supplied them with the artwork needed to cut the correct
size logos. You can order straight from them, choosing the colors
that work for you.
Contact Callie Graphics at this link: https://callie-graphics.com or scan
the QR code on the previous page.
Note that Callie Graphics is not affiliated with Old School Model
Works, nor does Old School Model Works generate any income
from this partnership.
Step 129 - Attach the Control Surfaces
Now is the time to attach all the control surfaces to the airframe, by
gluing the hinges in position.
Step 130 - Attach wheels. Use the included wheel collars
to hold each wheel (not included) on the axles (one on each side
of the wheel). For a maintenance free installation, file a small flat
on the axle where the set screw of the wheel collar touches. Also
use a touch of thread-locking compound to keep the screw from
loosening over time.
Step 131 - Attach hatches. Place the top hatch in position and
using the pre-cut holes as a guide, drill the two screw holes into the
firewall using a sing a 1/16” bit.
Using the same bit, attach the bottom hatch to using the same
technique.
Both hatches are held in place with 2-56 x 3/4” self tapping screws.
Step 132 - Windows. Finishing the assembly of the RH80 are
the windows. On the fuselage plans we have included a template for
the side windows and the front windscreen. Cut the windows from
the included plastic sheet, making sure to cut it slightly oversize
then trim as necessary. Attach each window to the fuselage with
canopy glue, or you can use number of small screws (not included)
evenly spaced around the window perimeters, if you’d like to make
the windows removable.
This completes the assembly of the Robinhood 80. Now you’ll
need to adjust the control throws and check for balance.
Step 132 Recommended C.G. setting:
An important part of preparing the aircraft for flight is properly
balancing the model. This is especially important because of the
various motor/battery combinations that can be used.
CAUTION! DO NOT SKIP THIS STEP!
The recommended Center of Gravity (CG) location for the RH80
is measured back 4-1/4” from the leading edge of the wing, and
you’ll see this marked on the fuselage plan with this symbol.
If necessary, move the battery, receiver, and/or add weight to
Create this vent area on
the underside.

Page 18 www.oldschoolmodels.com Construction Manual
For more information on all of our other products, as well as the
latest news from Old School Model Works:
Please check out out website: www.oldschoolmodels.com
You can reach us on Facebook:
www.facebook.com/oldschoolmodelworks
Instagram: www.instagram.com/oldschoolmodelworks/
Twitter: www.twitter.com/oldschoolmodels
See photos of our kits and customer builds on Flickr:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/oldschoolmodelworks/
either the nose or the tail until the correct
balance is achieved. Stick-on weights are
available at your local hobby store and
work well for this purpose.
Recommended Control Throws:
The amount of control throw should be
adjusted as closely as possible using mechanical means, rather
than making large changes electronically at the radio.
By moving the position of the clevis at the control horn toward
the outermost hole, you will decrease the amount of control throw
of the control surface. Moving it toward the control surface will
increase the amount of throw. Moving the pushrod wire at the
servo arm will have the opposite effect: Moving it closer to center
will decrease throw, and away from center will increase throw.
Work with a combination of the two to achieve the closest or exact
control throws listed.
Aileron 5/8” up/down
Elevator 1/2” up/down
Rudder 1” left/right
(Expert tip: Once the control throws have been set, cut a few pieces of
medium silicone fuel tubing (or heat shrink tubing) to go around each
of the clevises. This will keep them from opening during flight.)
Preflight:
Charge both the transmitter and receiver pack for your airplane.
Use the recommended charger supplied with your particular radio
system, following the instructions provided with the radio. In most
cases, the radio should be charged the night before going out
flying.
Check the radio installation and make sure all the control
surfaces are moving correctly (i.e. the correct direction and with
the recommended throws). Test run the engine and make sure it
transitions smoothly from idle to full throttle and back. Also ensure
the engine is tuned according to the manufacturer’s instructions,
and it will run consistently and constantly at full throttle when
adjusted.
Check all the control horns, servo horns and clevises to make
sure they are secure and in good condition. Replace any items
that would be considered questionable. Failure of any of these
components in flight would mean the loss of your aircraft.
Range check your radio before flying
Before each flying session, range check your radio. This is
accomplished by turning on your transmitter with the antenna
collapsed. Turn on the radio in your airplane, but do not attach the
arming switch.
With your airplane on the ground, you should be able to walk 30
paces away from your airplane and still have complete control of
all functions.
If not, don’t attempt to fly! Have your radio equipment checked
out by the manufacturer.
Warranty Information
Old School Model Works guarantees this kit to be free from
defects in both material and workmanship at the date of purchase.
This warranty does not cover any parts damage by use or
modification. In no case shall Old School Model Works’ liability
exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. Further, Old School
Model Works reserves the right to change or modify this warranty
without notice.
In that Old School Model Works has no control over the final
assembly or material used for the final assembly, no liability shall be
assumed nor accepted for any damage of the final user-assembled
product. By the act of using the product, the user accepts all
resulting liability.
Limit of Liability
In the use of this product, our only obligation shall be to replace
such quantity of the product proven to be defective. The user shall
determine the suitability of the product for his or her intended use
and shall assume all risk and liability in connection therewith.
If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with
the use of this product, the buyer is advised to return this kit
immediately in new and un-opened condition.

Construction Manual www.oldschoolmodels.com Page 19
APPENDIX A

Page 20 www.oldschoolmodels.com Construction Manual
APPENDIX A