Old School Model Works FIFTY SIX Instructions for use

CONSTRUCTION
MANUAL
www.oldschoolmodels.com
Using the Manual
Be sure to read each step thoroughly before you start
the step. Test-fit the parts together to make sure they
fit properly. If necessary trim to fit.
Beside each step you will notice a check box (or two).
These are so you can keep track of your progress
while building your kit. For steps that have two boxes,
as in the construction of the left and right wing halves,
these steps must be performed two times.
• Your Old School Model Works aircraft should not be
considered a toy, but rather a sophisticated, working
model that functions very much like a full-size airplane.
Because of its performance capabilities, this model, if not
assembled and operated correctly, could possibly cause
injury to yourself or spectators, and damage to property.
• You must assemble this model according to the
instructions. Do not alter or modify this model, as doing
so may result in an unsafe or un-flyable model. In a few
cases the instructions may differ slightly from the photos.
In those instances the written instructions should be
considered as correct.
• You must take time to build straight, true and strong.
• You must use a R/C radio system that is in first-
class condition, a correctly sized power system and
components (electronics, batteries, wheels, etc.)
throughout the building process.
• You must correctly install all R/C and other components
so that the model operates correctly on the ground
and in the air. (Installation shown in the manual is a
suggestion. You may have to adjust the mounting steps
to accommodate the size of your radio equipment.)
• You must check the operation of the model before every
flight to insure that all equipment is operating and that
the model has remained structurally sound. Be sure to
check clevises or other connectors often and replace
them if they show any signs of wear or fatigue.
• If you are not an experienced pilot or have not flown this
type of model before, we recommend that you get the
assistance of an experienced pilot in your R/C club for
your first flights. If you’re not a member of a club, your
local hobby shop has information about clubs in your
area whose membership includes experienced pilots.
• While this kit has been flight tested to exceed normal
use, if this model will be used for extremely high stress
flying, such as racing, or if a power system larger than
one in the recommended range is used, the modeler is
responsible for taking steps to reinforce the high stress
points and/or substituting hardware more suitable for the
increased stress.
Remember: Take your time and follow
the instructions to end up with a well-
built model that is straight and true.
Specifications:
Wingspan: 56 in.
Wing Area: 560 sq in.
Airframe Length: 41.5 in.
Weight: 3.5 - 4.5 lb.

Page 2 www.oldschoolmodels.com Construction Manual
WARNING
READ THROUGH THIS MANUAL
BEFORE STARTING CONSTRUCTION.
IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT WARNINGS
AND INSTRUCTIONS CONCERNING
THE CONSTRUCTION AND USE OF THIS
MODEL.
A Radio-Controlled aircraft is not a toy!
If misused, it can cause serious bodily harm
and damage to property. Fly only in open
areas, preferably at AMA (Academy of Model
Aeronautics) approved flying sites, following all
instructions included with your radio, powerplant,
electronics and batteries.
• Inspect your model before every flight to ensure it is airworthy.
• Be aware of any other radio frequency user who may present an
interference problem.
• Always be courteous and respectful of other users in your
selected flight area.
• Choose an area clear of obstacles and large enough to safely
accommodate your flying activity.
• Make sure this area is clear of friends and spectators prior to
launching your aircraft.
• Be aware of other activities in the vicinity of your flight path that
could cause potential conflict.
• Carefully plan your flight path prior to launch.
• Abide by any and all established AMA National Model Aircraft
Safety Codes.
IMPORTANT!!! Two of the most important things you can
do to preserve the radio controlled aircraft hobby are to avoid flying
near full-scale aircraft and avoid flying near or over groups of people.
INCLUDED ITEMS
Wood parts included in this kit:
• 1 - LP1 - laser cut 1/8” x 5 x 24 sheet
• 1 - LP2 - laser cut 1/8” x 5 x 24 sheet
• 1 - LP3 - laser cut 1/8” x 2 x 24 sheet
• 1 - LP4 - laser cut 1/8” x 5 x 24 sheet
• 1 - LP5 - laser cut 1/8” x 5 x 24 sheet
• 1 - LP6 - laser cut 1/16” x 3 x 3 sheet
• 2 - BP1 - laser cut 1/8” x 4 x 24 balsa
• 1 - BP2 - laser cut 1/8” x 1 x 24 balsa
• 2 - BP3 - laser cut 3/32” x 4 x 24 balsa
• 2 - BP4 - laser cut 3/32” x 4 x 24 balsa
• 1 - BP5 - laser cut 3/32” x 4 x 24 balsa
• 2 - BP6 - laser cut 3/32” x 4 x 24 balsa
• 2 - BP7 - laser cut 3/32” x 4 x 24 balsa
• 1 - BP8 - laser cut 3/32” x 4 x 24 balsa
• 2 - BP9 - laser cut 1/4” x 4 x 12 balsa
• 2 - BP10 - laser cut 1/4” x 4 x 12 balsa
• 1 - BP11 - laser cut 1/4” x 4 x 12 balsa
• 1 - BP12 - laser cut 1/4” x 4 x 12 balsa
• 1 - BP13 - laser cut 1/4” x 4 x 6 balsa
• 1 - BP13 - laser cut 1/16” x 4 x 24 balsa
• 2 - BP14 - laser cut 1/16” x 4 x 24 balsa
• 2 - BP15 - laser cut 1/16” x 4 x 24 balsa
• 1 - BP16 - laser cut 1/16” x 4 x 24 balsa
• 1 - 3/32” x 4 x 12 balsa sheet
• 1 - 1/16” x 4 x 12 balsa sheet
• 2 - 1/2” x 1/2” x 36” balsa strips
• 2 - 1/4” x 1/2” x 36” balsa strips
• 2 - 1/4” x 1/4” x 36” balsa strips
• 2 - 3/16” x 3/16” x 36” balsa strips
• 4 - 1/8” x 1/8” x 36” basswood strips
• 4 - 1/4” x 1/4” x 36” basswood strips
• 2 - 5/16” x 1-1/4” x 36” tapered balsa strips
• 3 - 1/4”x 36” wooden dowels
Hardware parts included in this kit:
• 8 - magnets
• 2 - pre-bent main gear wires
• 1 - nose gear assembly
• C/A type hinges for control surfaces
• 4 - control horns
• 2 - wheel collars 5/32” I.D.
• 4 - plastic gear straps
• 8 - 2-56 x 1/2” machine screws
• 12 - 2-56 x 3/4” self tapping screws
• 10 #64 rubber bands
Other items included in this kit:
• 2 - Rolled plans (fuselage and wing)
• 1 - Construction Manual
• 1 - Formed Canopy
ITEMS NEEDED
Hardware needed (not included in the kit)
For some of these items there is more than one option which will
require a bit of decision making ahead of time. There isn’t a right or
a wrong choice, so choose the items that work best for you.
We strongly recommended supporting your local hobby shop.
• Powerplant: .19-.35 sized 2-stroke glow engine (or similar
electric system)
• Propeller
• Engine/Motor mount and mounting hardware
• 4-6 ounce Fuel Tank and fuel tubing (if glow)
• Receiver - (4 channel minimum)
• 4 servos (electric) or 5 servos (if glow) - we recommend standard
servos all around, although you can use a smaller servo on the
throttle, if using glow power).
• “Y” servo harness (for ailerons)
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including lead, which
is known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other
reproductive harm. For more information go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.

Construction Manual www.oldschoolmodels.com Page 3
• Pushrods (two 5” for ailerons, two 26” for elevator & rudder,
one 14” for nose gear steering, one 10” for throttle if glow.)
• Clevises for the pushrods.
• Wheels: one 2-1/4" for nose, two 2-1/2” for mains.
• Covering (2 rolls typically)
Additional Required Building Tools and Adhesives
• Drill & assorted drill bits
• Hobby knife and #10 blades
• Sandpaper: coarse (80 or 100 grit) & medium (150-200 grit)
• Pencil or pen
• Ruler
• T-Pins
• Waxed paper
• Building board
• 2-part epoxy (6 or 15 minute)
• Epoxy brushes and mixing sticks
• Wood adhesives of your choice. We use medium viscosity CA
(cyanoacrylate) , but aliphatic resin and/or carpenter’s glues (used
correctly) will work just as well and give longer working time.
• Thin CA for attaching the included hinges
Although an easy to build kit, our Fifty Six kit is not for the novice
builder. We are assuming the builder is used to constructing balsa
kits and has the techniques and skills necessary to do so.
Closely inspect the supplied laser cut parts for damage. If you find
any damaged or missing parts, contact us immediately.
When removing the laser cut parts from their sheets, you’ll notice
the parts are held in place by several small “tabs”. These tabs
are uncut pieces of wood and can sometimes make it difficult to
remove a part. Rather than breaking and/or splintering the wood
by forcing out the part, we recommend removing any laser cut
parts from their sheets by using a hobby knife with a #10 blade.
A quick cut of the tab will allow the piece to be removed with no
damage. Sand any tab remainders flush with the part so there will
be no problem aligning them later.
It’s best to not remove parts from their sheets until they are needed.
Refer to Appendix A of this manual as a reference to what all the
laser cut parts look like and are called.
You’ll notice a check box next to each step. Check these off as
you go along so you don’t miss a step. Note that some steps (in
building the wing) have two boxes - this means that the step will be
done twice - once for each wing half.
There could be a step or two which leaves you a bit puzzled. If this
happens, step back and study the photo(s) for that step - both in
this manual and online.
All photos shown in this manual are of different Fifty Six prototypes.
Several pieces may have changed slightly
with improvements we’ve made so parts
may look a little different in some steps.
Online Supplementary Photos
We realize that the smaller black-and-
white photos in this manual might not
show some of the steps as clearly as you
might want. So we’ve anticipated this and made these photos
available on our website. You can either scan the QR code or type
this address into your browser:
www.oldschoolmodels.com/mpics/fiftysix/
IT IS VERY IMPORTANT THAT YOU ASSEMBLE THE FIFTY
SIX KIT IN THE ORDER DESCRIBED. SKIPPING FORWARD
IN THE STEPS COULD LEAVE YOU WITHOUT THE PROPER
LENGTHS OF WOOD TO FINISH THE KIT.
WE’VE INCLUDED ENOUGH WOOD TO EASILY COMPLETE
THIS KIT, BUT YOU MUST TAKE CARE TO PROPERLY
MEASURE AND NOT WASTE WOOD WHEN CUTTING.
Let’s begin construction by working on the port (left) wing
of your Fifty Six. Note that in these wing assembly photos,
there is an extra rib shown - that was eliminated in the final
prototype and production kits.
n Prepare your work area
You’ll need a flat building
surface that is a minimum of
36” long. Position the port
wing plan over the surface and
tape into position. Tear off a
length of waxed paper long
enough to cover the port wing plan and tape that into position,
over the plan.
n Alignment triangles
Pre-cut into LP2 is a 90° triangle. This can
be used to vertically align any of the parts
in the construction of your Fifty Six. LP2 also
includes a foot piece that can be used with
the triangle to hold it vertically (hands-free).
n n Step 1 - Wing Assembly (front spar)
These next few step will create the front spar. It is recommended
that you use a long, straight edge during these steps to ensure that
the finished spar is straight and true.
Locate one of the 1/4” square
x 36” lengths of basswood,
and one SP2 from BP1. Glue
the longer edge of SP2 to the
basswood as shown here, with
them lined up at one end.
Make sure that SP2 is pressed
up against the basswood along
it’s entire length, and is also held flat against your building board
as shown in this photo.
n n Step 2 - Wing Assembly (front spar)
Locate one SP1 from BP1. This
is glued in place to SP2 and
the basswood by lining up the
modified scarf joint pre-cut into
the pieces. Again, make sure
this is aligned straight with the
straight edge, and flat along
the entire length where it contacts the basswood strip.

Page 4 www.oldschoolmodels.com Construction Manual
n n Step 3 - Wing Assembly (front spar)
Locate another SP2 from BP1
and this is now glued on top of
the SP1 you just installed. This
will allow the lower and upper
scarf joints to overlap, rather
than be aligned. Again, make
sure that this SP2 is glued to
the SP1 (and the overlapping portion of SP2) below it, as well as
where it contacts the basswood strip. Make sure this joint is straight
as shown here.
n n Step 4 - Wing Assembly (front spar)
Now locate another SP1 and glue
in place, aligning the laser-cut scarf
joints and making sure it is properly
positioned as the glue cures.
n n Step 5 - Wing Assembly (front spar)
To complete this spar, locate another
of the 1/4” square basswood strips.
Glue this to the edge of the spar
assembly, to the edges of the SP1
and SP2 pieces as shown here. Make
sure it’s flat and straight along it’s
entire length.
n n Step 6 - Wing Assembly (front spar)
Once the glue has cured in the spar assembly, remove it from the
building board and lightly sand it’s surfaces to make sure they are
flat and smooth, removing any glue bumps that may have formed
during the assembly and curing. Don’t go overboard - just make
sure that you have a piece that is flat on all sides so it will slide
smoothly into the ribs during the upcoming steps.
n n Step 7 - Wing Assembly (rear spar)
Now locate two of the 1/8”
square basswood strips, one
SP3 and one SP4 from BP1.
Using these pieces you’ll
make the rear spar, using the
same techniques as you did
for the front spar. Start by
gluing the long edge of SP3
to the basswood strip, making sure it’s straight along it’s length.
Then glue SP4 in place, lining up the scarf joint. Follow it all up with
the other length of basswood glued to the exposed edges of SP3
and SP4. Lightly sand it flat in preparation for the upcoming steps.
n n Step 8 - Wing Assembly (wing ribs)
Now locate one complete set of
wing ribs. Stack them up in order
by referring to the plans. Starting
at the root: R1, R2, R2, R3, R4,
R4, R5, R5, R4, R4, R4, R4, and
R6. Make sure you align them
correctly with the under-side tabs
all in the same direction. Double,
triple, and quadruple check that you have them in the correct
order, then when satisfied, push the front spar into the larger
rectangular hole in each rib. The rear spar is pushed through the
smaller rectangular hole towards the rear of the ribs.
n n Step 9 - Wing Assembly (wing ribs)
Now place this “assembly”
onto the wing plan on your
building board and start to
carefully space the ribs apart so
they align with the plans. Take
your time and use a light touch
so you don’t break off any of
the underside tabs, or crack any of the ribs. They don’t need to
be perfectly aligned yet, but get them close. Double check that
all the ribs are in the right order one more time as in the next step
everything is locked in place, making this the last time you’ll be able
to easily fix any mix-ups. It’s worth one more look now - trust me.
n n Step 10 - Wing Assembly (wing ribs)
Starting at the tip rib (R6), it’s
time to start gluing things in
place. I like to put a small drop
of medium CA on the bottom of
the underside tabs of this rib to
help lock it in place to the waxed
paper (or you can use pins if
that’s your thing). Also make sure
to use the enclosed triangle that you should have at hand from the
first steps of this build. This ensures that this rib is perfectly aligned
at 90° to the building surface.
Also make sure that the front and rear spar protrude a little from
R6 - maybe an 1/8” or so.
When satisfied, glue the two spars to R6.
n n Step 11 - Wing Assembly (wing ribs)
Now, slowly and methodically work your way towards the root rib,
one rib at a time. Make sure each rib is precisely aligned - the
spars are aligned, and that you firmly glue each rib to both spars.
As you go along, you also might want to place a drop of glue on
the underside tabs on every third or fourth rib to keep everything
aligned with the plans. Continue with this until you have glued the
innermost R4 in place. Stop there and move on to the next step.
n n Step 12 - Wing Assembly (SPACER)
Locate SPACERs from LP1 and LP4. These are just as the name
implies - simply spacers and should NOT be glued into the airframe
at any point.
Notice that the pre-cut rectangular spars holes in R3, both R2’s
and R1 are wider than the spars that are in them. This is to allow
for the dihedral braces that will be attached later on. But you need
to make sure the spacing is correct when gluing the spars in place,
hence the use of the SPACERs.
Use one SPACER piece as a substitute for the front dihedral brace
first, by sliding it into the holes on the R1, R2 and R3 ribs. This
should push the spar towards the rear of the pre-cut slots. Then
do the same with the other SPACER for the rear spar holes - again
pushing the spar towards the rear of the cutouts in each rib.

Construction Manual www.oldschoolmodels.com Page 5
n n Step 13 - Wing Assembly (R3 ribs)
With the SPACERs in place, carefully align both R3 ribs and the
outermost R2 rib, then tack them in place to the spars (best to tack
glue on the back side of the spars). Make sure that the SPACERS
are not glued to spars or any of the ribs as they will be VERY hard
to remove.
n n Step 14 - Wing Assembly (WH3)
Locate one of the WH3s from LP1.
It’s outer tabs fit into the pre-cut
slots on the back of the R2 ribs as
shown here. Glue it to the outer
R2 rib first, then properly align the
inner R2 rib. Once aligned, glue
that R2 rib in place by tacking it in
place to the back of the spars, and
then glue the WH3 to it as well.
n n Step 15 - Wing Assembly (WH1, WH2, WH4)
Locate WH1, WH2, and WH4 from LP1.
Note that WH1, WH2 and WH4 have a
small circle engraved on one side. This
designates the side that should face
R1 because it has a small angle pre-
cut into it. Glue each WH1, WH2 and
WH4 to R2 making sure their tabs are
completely inserted into the holes on
the innermost R2 rib.
n n Step 16 - Wing Assembly (R1)
Locate DH-JIG from LP1. This is used to help align R1 in this step.
WH1, WH2, and WH3 already have this angle cut into them, but
you can also use this DH-JIG to further aid the R1 alignment. Slide
each of the tabs from those WH pieces into the pre-cut holes of R1,
making sure they are completely inserted. When properly aligned
you should be able to double-check it with the DH-JIG.
After everything is aligned, tack glue R1 to the back of the spars,
then also glue R1 to WH1, WH2 and WH3.
n n Step 17 - Wing Assembly (SPACER)
With the ribs all in place, carefully remove the SPACER pieces and
then glue ribs R3, R2 and R1 to the spars. Make sure you do NOT
have any extra glue fouling the holes where the dihedral braces
will slide into.
n n Step 18 - Wing Assembly (R1A)
Locate two of the R1A pieces from
LP1. These are glued into the center
rectangular cutout in WH4 and WH3 as
shown here, pointing towards the trailing
edge of the wing. Make sure they are
firmly seated as the glue cures.
n n Step 19 - Wing Assembly (trailing edge)
Locate one 1/4” square length of balsa
strip. This will be the trailing edge of
the wing. Measure and trim it to length,
leaving about an extra 1/4” or so. Then
carefully slide it on to the back of each
of the ribs and it should be held in
place between the two “fingers/fangs/points” on the back of each
rib. Working from one side to the other, glue the trailing edge to
each of the ribs, making sure that the alignment of each rib is still
spot on.
n n Step 20 - Wing Assembly (leading edge)
Locate one length of 1/2” square
balsa strip. This is the leading edge
of the wing. Measure and trim it to
length, again, leaving about a 1/4”
extra. Working from one end to
the other, glue the leading edge in
place to each of the ribs, making
sure it is firmly seated into the pre-cut, angled slot of each rib.
n n Step 21 - Wing Assembly (trailing edge sanding)
You'll now need to very lightly sand the
trailing edge. Refer to this diagram to
show what I'm on about. The trailing
edge needs just a little sanded off the
rear edge it so it will continue the airfoil
shape. Do this for the top and bottom
surface of the trailing edge.
n n Step 22 - Wing Assembly (CS2, CS5)
Locate one CS2 from BP15 and
one CS5 from LP6. CS5 fits into
the pre-cut notch of CS2 as shown
here. Before gluing it place, lightly
sand the edges of CS5 where it
will contact CS2, so you’ll have a
good fit. When happy with the fit,
carefully apply glue to the two contacting edges of CS5 and attach
it to CS2. Apply a bit of downward pressure along the seams to
make sure the joint is flat along the edges as the glue cures.
n n Step 23 - Wing Assembly (CS1, CS2, CS3)
Locate one CS1 and one CS3 from
BP15. After trimming, these will
all be glued together to form the
top sheeting of the wing’s center
section. Place the CS2 assembly
in place on the rear section of the
wing, then place the CS1 on the
front edge, simulating how it will
wrap around the leading edge rib
curve (temporarily tape in place if that helps). CS3 has purposely
been cut a little long, so you'll need to trim it to get a perfect fit
filling the gap between CS1 and CS2.
When satisfied with how it all looks, remove the pieces and it’s time
to glue them together into a single sheet.
When edge gluing the sheeting pieces together, first make sure
the edges are flat (give a quick, swipe or two with a sanding block).
Then tape the two pieces together with a piece of masking tape.
As you lift the sheeting from the board you’ll see that the tape will
act as a hinge allowing you to put a small amount of adhesive into
the joint. When the adhesive is applied, place the sheeting back
down on the waxed paper, so that it’s flat and apply pressure to
the joint while it cures to make sure it’s flat along it’s entire length.
Sand this lip to
match airfoil

Page 6 www.oldschoolmodels.com Construction Manual
When cured, you’ll now have a single, longer piece of sheeting.
It’s easier to join the shorter lengths
of sheeting together on a flat
surface. Then when the glue has
cured, glue the sheeting in place
on the wing. Start at the leading
edge and gluing a little at a time.
Press the sheeting firmly against
the ribs and wait for the glue to cure before gluing the next section
of sheeting - slowly working your way back to the trailing edge,
being careful not to put a bend (warp) in the wing.
n n Step 24 - Wing Assembly (TE)
Locate one TE from BP14. This is
the trailing edge sheeting. Glue
this in place into the “groove”
pre-cut into rear of each of rib as
shown here. Be sure it is glued to
each of the ribs, to the top of the
trailing edge and to the center
sheeting you just applied.
n n Step 25 - Wing Assembly (LE)
Locate one LE from BP14. This is
the leading edge sheeting. Glue
this in place into the “groove”
pre-cut into the front of each
rib as shown here. Be sure it is
glued to each of the ribs and to
the leading edge, and the center
sheeting.
As the sheeting we get can vary in density, you might have to apply
a bit of Windex® glass cleaner to loosen up the grain and allow
it to bend without cracking. Soak the outer side of the wood to
expand the fibers. Now hold it to curvature needed, then use a
hair dryer or covering heat-gun to help “set” the balsa’s bend as it
dries. Once dry, then you can glue it in position.
n n Step 26 - Wing Assembly (remove under-side tabs)
Once the glue has cured it’s time to carefully remove the wing
assembly from the board. Once removed, flip it over and it’s time
to remove all the underside tabs that helped hold the ribs in place.
There’s one in the front and one in the back of each rib. On ribs
R2-R6, these are balsa and easily cut away with a hobby knife. R1
ribs are lite ply and might need a bit more persuasion to remove.
When trimming these tabs, make sure you cut them away just
enough so that the airfoil shape of each rib is not interrupted. On
the trailing edge, this will mean that each tab will be cut away so
the trailing edge sits 1/16” proud of each rib.
n n Step 27 - Wing Assembly (CS1, CS4)
Locate two CS1s from BP15 and
one CS4 from BP16. These are used
to create the center sheeting for the
underside of the wing.
Use the same techniques that you
used when forming the upper
sheeting a few steps back. You’ll
need to trim CS4 to fit between the
gap of the CS1’s.
Also note that CS4 has a pre-cut hole in it. This is to allow the aileron
servo wire to exit. This hole should be positioned so it’s closer to the root
rib (R1). When this assembly is completed, glue it in place using the same
techniques as applying the top sheeting.
n n Step 28 - Wing Assembly (LE & TE)
Locate one LE and one TE from BP14. These are the lower leading
edge and trailing edge sheeting and should be applied in the
same was as you applied the top side sheets.
n n Step 29- Wing Assembly (root, tip sanding)
Take a few minutes to carefully sand away any extra wood that
extends past the root (R1) and tip (R6) ribs. Cut and/or sand as
necessary until any extra spar or sheeting material is perfectly flush
with those ribs.
n n Step 30 - Wing Assembly (TP1)
Locate one TP1 from LP1. This
is glued in place to R6 as shown
here. It should be at 90° to R6
(perpendicular) and all the TP1
tabs should fit completely into
the pre-cut slots in R6.
n n Step 31 -Wing Assembly (T2, T3, T4)
Locate T2 and T4 from BP9P as
well as T3 from BP10P.
Make sure you're using BP9P for
the port wingtip - NOT BP9S.
Note the etched lines on T2 and
T3. These are alignment guides for
the piece that fits on top of them.
With the wing sitting up-right, glue T2 on top of TP1 and up against
R6. Then glue T3 on top of T2, aligning T3 witht the edges guides
and up-against R6.. T4 is then glued on top of T4, again aligning it
with the guides and making sure it's up against R6.
n n Step 32 - Wing Assembly (T5, T6)
Locate T5 and T6 from BP9P. These
are glued to the underside of TP1,
T5 first, then T6 using T5's etched
lines as a guide.
n n Step 33 - Wing Assembly (aileron box)
First we’ll create the
mounting rails for the
aileron hatch by using
leftover 1/4” square
basswood you trimmed
when creating the forward
spars. Measure and cut
two lengths that will span
the distance between the
forward and rearward spars. With the wing half laid on it’s top, glue
these two strips to the R5 ribs as shown on the plans. These strips
should be flush with the lower-most pre-cut edges of the R5 ribs.
n n Step 34 - Wing Assembly (aileron box - SH1)
Next locate two SH1s from BP15. These are glued to R5’s small

Construction Manual www.oldschoolmodels.com Page 7
ledges just behind the front spar and ahead of the rear spar. Glue
these, centered across the two R5 ribs as shown on the plans.
n n Step 35 - Wing Assembly (aileron box - SH)
Locate one SH from LP5. This should now fit in the area between the
SH1’s you just installed. If not, lightly sand as necessary to obtain a
good fit. Note that there are 4 holes precut into the corners. With
a 1/16" bit, use SH as a guide to drill the 4 holes that will be used
to attach SH to the wing using 4 of the supplied 2-56 self-tapping
screws. Temporarily attach the hatch in place using these screws.
n n Step 36 - Wing Assembly (aileron box)
Now locate some of the scrap 1/4” square balsa stock trimmed
away from the trailing edge pieces. Cut two lengths that will run
between the front and rear spars. Glue these in position as shown
on the plans - flush with the top surface of SH1, and against the
1/4” square basswood mounts. Do NOT glue them to the SH hatch
as that needs to be removable.
Set the port wing half aside and begin work on the starboard
wing half. Tape the starboard wing plan and fresh wax paper
on your board. Then follow steps 1 through 36 to complete the
starboard wing half. Once finished, then move on to step 37.
Note that when building the port half that many of the parts
will need to be glued to the opposite side (the WH1, WH2, and
the wing stip pieces for instance). Always refer to the plans to
make sure you’re gluing the parts together in the correct way.
n Step 37 - Wing Assembly (D1, D2)
Locate D1 from LP1 and D2
from LP2. These are the dihedral
braces. Test fit these by sliding
them into both of the wing halves,
as shown. They should smoothly
push into the gap in the R1, R2
and R3 ribs until each brace is half
way inserted. Also make sure that
you insert them both in the same orientation - so they both point
“up” when the wing is held up-right.
Carefully sand as necessary so they both slide in as they should,
and allow the root (R1) ribs on both halves to fit flat against each
other, along their entire length.
Once satisfied with the fit, take the wing halves apart and remove
D1 and D2.
Now it’s time to mix up some epoxy and use it to coat the areas
where the D1 and D2 pieces will contact the spars and ribs. Also
coat the entire face of one of the R1 ribs.
When coated, slide all these pieces back together to form the
completed wing assembly. Hold these together with some tape
and/or clamps until the epoxy has cured completely.
While waiting for the glue to cure, wipe away any excess with a
paper-towel soaked in a bit of denatured alcohol.
n Step 38 - Wing Assembly (ailerons)
Locate the two lengths of 5/16” x 1-1/4” tapered balsa sticks.
These are used as the ailerons. Refer to the plan for the correct
length, then cut one aileron from each piece. Also note the slight
angle on the aileron tips and cut/sand that in as well.
Note - if you prefer to make your Fifty Six a 3-channel system
(without ailerons), you can glue these strips to the trailing edge
of each wing to continue on the airfoil shape of the wing. We’ve
not done this with any of the prototypes as we prefer ailerons, but
there could be a couple of you out there that are aileron-phobic,
so here’s your chance to go really “old-school”.
This completes the assembly of the wing. Now it’s time for
the tail surfaces, starting with the vertical fin.
nStep 39 - Vertical Fin Assembly (VF1, VF2, VF4)
Locate VF1 and VF4 from BP12,
and VF2 from BP11.
Glue VF1 to VF2, making sure it
is properly aligned and that all
the tabs in VF1 are completely
seated in VF2’s tabs. Then,
glue VF4 to the top of the VF1/
VF2 assembly, making sure it is
properly oriented.
nStep 40 - Stab Assembly (S1 ribs)
Locate both S1 ribs from BP16. These are glued to the bottom of
the vertical fin assembly from the previous step, one on each side.
Using the pre-cut holes as a guide, glue one S1 to the vertical fin
piece, then flip it over and glue the other S1 to the other side.
Make sure these are properly aligned, and straight with each other.
Refer to the drawing of this section shown on the side view of the
fuselage plans.
Remove the wing plans from your building surface, then cutout
and attach the plans for the horizontal stab and elevator. Cover it
with wax paper and tape everything into place.
nStep 41 - Stab Assembly (SP5, S2-S7 ribs)
Locate SP5 from BP2,
and both sets of S2-
S7 ribs from BP16.
Slide the vertical fin
assembly on to SP5, all
the way to the middle.
Then, slide one S2
on each side of SP5,
noting the orientation
(all underside tabs pointing the same way, and the leading edges
also oriented correctly. Continue on with both S3s, S4s, S5s, S6s,
and finally S7s. Place this “assembly down on to the plans and
begin to carefully slide the stab ribs into their proper position.
nStep 42 - Stab Assembly (stab ribs)
Using the 90° alignment
triangle, it’s time to start gluing
the stab ribs to SP5. Start with
the vertical fin, with it perfectly
centered, 90° to the buliding
surface and straight. Then work
your way through one side of

Page 8 www.oldschoolmodels.com Construction Manual
nStep 48 - Stab Assembly (ST)
Sand the both ends of the stab assembly so
there’s no extra trailing edge, leading edge
or stab material protruding past the S7 ribs.
Now locate 6 STs from BP10P and BP10S.
Make 2 tip assemblies by gluing 3 of them
on top of each other, aligned with each other.
Then lightly sand the long edge so it’s flat, then glue one assembly
to each tip of the stab, making sure you’ve properly aligned and
centered it on the S7 ribs.
nStep 49 - Elevator Assembly
Locate the two extra pieces of 5/16” x 1-1/4” tapered edge stock,
as well as one of the 6” lengths of 1/4” dowel. Cut the dowel to
length, as shown on the plans. Now measure and cut one elevator
half from each tapered edge balsa piece. Mark and cut the notches
into the leading edge of these elevator halves as shown on the
plans. Then glue each elevator half to the dowel, making sure the
entire piece is perfectly straight and flat.
This completes the assembly of the tail surfaces. Now it’s
time to assemble the fuselage. You won’t need to tape down
the fuselage plan to the board - simply use it as a reference.
However, you may need to put down some fresh waxed
paper as you’ll need it for a few of the steps.
nStep 50 - Fuse Assembly (F3, F3A)
Locate F3 and F3A from LP2. Glue F3A to
F3 as shown here, making sure it is properly
aligned.
nStep 51 - Fuse Assembly (F4 and TR2)
Locate TR2 from LP2 and F4 from LP4.
Glue F4 into TR2 as shown here. Make sure
F4 is completely inserted into TR2 and is
held 90° to the surface of TR2.
nStep 52 - Fuse Assembly (F5)
Locate F5 from LP2. This is glued to the
back of TR2 as shown here, and pay close
attention to it’s orientation so you don’t
attach it up-side-down.
nStep 53 - Fuse Assembly (F3/F3A assembly)
Now attach the F3/F3A assembly
you created a few steps back, to
the front of TR2. Note that the F3
side should be attached to TR2, not
the F3A side. Again, make sure it’s
oriented correctly and is 90° to TR2.
the stab, then the other. Take the time to make sure everything
is aligned properly BEFORE you glue it in place, as it’s just about
impossible to fix if things are out of order and glued in place. When
finished, you should have something that looks just about like this
photo.
nStep 43 - Stab Assembly (trailing edge)
Locate one length of the 1/4” x 1/2”
balsa strip. Measure and cut this to
length to form the trailing edge of the
stab. Leave an extra 1/4” or so, then
glue this in place, using the pre-cut
“step” on the rear of each rib to help
hold it correctly in place. Make sure you
glue this piece to each of the stab’s ribs.
nStep 44 - Stab Assembly (leading edges)
Locate the other length of 1/4” x
1/2” balsa strip to use as the leading
edge of the stab. This will need to
be cut to length, and the root edges
beveled slightly to join correctly at
the stab’s center. Again, using the
“step” cut into the front of each rib, place these pieces in position
and glue them to each of the ribs, and to each other.
nStep 45 - Stab Assembly (center sheeting, top)
Using the un-cut sheet of 1/16th balsa,
it’s time to measure, cut and form
the center sheeting strips that will be
attached to each side of the vertical
fin. These sheets run from the top of
the S1 ribs (up against the vertical fin),
to cover the tops of the S2 ribs.
Using the same techniques that you
used when forming the wing’s center sheeting, measure and cut 3
total pieces to make each sheet. Take your time when measuring
and cutting - especially against the tapered edge of the leading
edge. What you want is a piece that fit snugly against the leading
and trailing edges as shown here.
Once you have made a pair of these, glue these in place on each
side over the S1 and S2 ribs, up against the vertical fin as we’ve
shown here.
nStep 46 - Stab Assembly (VF3)
Remove the stab assembly from your
building board and flip it over. Remove all the
underside tabs by trimming them away, just
as you did on the wing. Make sure to continue
each of the rib’s aerodynamic shape.
Once that is finished, locate VF3 from BP11. This is glued in place
into the notch on the underside of the vertical fin. As shown here.
nStep 47 - Stab Assembly (center sheeting, bottom)
Using the same techniques as you
used on the top sheeting, measure,
cut and form the two strips of 1/16th
sheeting used on the bottom side.
When you are satisfied with their fit,
glue them in position as shown.

Construction Manual www.oldschoolmodels.com Page 9
nStep 59 - Fuse Assembly (SS)
Locate both SS from LP3. These
are the inner supports for the
wing saddle. One is glued in
place on the inside of FSP and
FSS as shown here. Make sure
their edges area aligned with
the fuselage sides and they are
properly oriented.
nStep 60 - Fuse Assembly (nose gear block)
This might seem like a strange time to do this,
but it’s actually the perfect time. Inside the
hardware bag is a smaller bag which has all the
components needed to make the nose gear
assembly. In this group of parts is the nylon
nose block, the 4 mounting screws, and the 4
t-nuts.
Using the etched lines on F1, you can easily
locate this nose-block so it’s straight, as the
lines should appear inside each of the 4 block’s four mounting holes. Using
a 3/32” bit, drill these four mounting positions into F1.
Then use the 4 screws and t-nuts to fasten this in position. You might want
to use a bit a thread lock and cut away the extra length from interfering
with the tank and/or battery installation later on.
nStep 61 - Fuse Assembly (SS1, SS2, SS3)
Locate both SS2s and SS3s
from BP6, as well as both
SS1s from BP7. Glue one
SS1 to one SS2, making
sure that all the tabs on
SS2 are completely seated
into the notches cut into
SS1. Also make sure that
the pieces are flat along
this entire joint. Then glue
SS3 to the end of this assembly using the same technique.
Make 2 assemblies.
nStep 62 - Fuse Assembly (fuse side prep)
Take the plywood fuselage box
and test fit one of the balsa
fuselage sides to the port side.
Align it so the dowel holes and
edges match. Now, using a
pencil, trace an outline of the end
of the fuselage box on the inside
face of the balsa side.
Remove that side, then do the same for the starboard side, again
tracing the end on the inside face of the balsa sheeting.
nStep 63 - Fuse Assembly (fuse side prep)
Locate two 3/16” square balsa strips. These are used to create
interior ledges on the
top and bottom of the
fuselage sides. The
strips will be positioned
along the bottom of the
cutouts on the fuselage
sides (refer to the
photo). Measure and
nStep 54 - Fuse Assembly (F1/F2)
Locate F1 from LP2 and F2 from LP4. These are
glued together as shown to form the firewall.
Make sure F1 is aligned with F2 and that the
etched nose-gear alignment lines are visible.
We recommend epoxy for this step.
nStep 55 - Fuse Assembly (TR1)
Locate TR1 from LP2. Note that TR1
has a small circle engraved on the
top surface - this designates the
starboard side of the fuselage. Both
tabs on the front of TR1 should be
inserted into the pre-cut holes in F2
as shown here. Also note that this
piece is NOT glued perpendicular
to TR1. Instead, use the DH-JIG
guide you used during the wing
construction to give the needed downthrust angle that will become
apparent in the next few steps.
nStep 56 - Fuse Assembly (FSS)
Locate FSS from LP5. This
is the starboard side of the
fuselage and should be
attached to the plywood
TR2 assembly you’ve just
created over the last few
steps. Take the time to dry-
fit this first, to get an idea
of how all the tabs fit into FSS’s precut holes. When you’re ready,
glue FSS in place. Make sure that all of the tabs are fully seated
into each of the holes, and that FSS follows the gentle curvature
cut into TR2.
nStep 57 - Fuse Assembly (FSP)
Locate FSP from LP4.
This is the port side
of the fuselage and
should be attached
to the port side of
the plywood box.
Again, take the time
to dry-fit this first, to
get an idea of how all
the tabs fit into FSP’s
precut holes. When you’re ready, glue FSP in place. Make sure that
all of the tabs are fully seated into each of the holes, and that FSP
follows the gentle curvature cut into TR2.
nStep 58 - Fuse Assembly (TR1)
Now the TR1 assembly is glued in place, between the fuselage
sides and into F3A. To do this carefully bend the fuselage sides
apart a bit, allowing the assembly to slide into place. When
properly aligned, all of the tabs should pop into the pre-cut holes
on both FSP and FSS.
When satisfied with this dry-fit, remove the tray, apply glue, and
put in back in position. Make sure it’s held in place and that the
fuselage sides continue their gentle curvature.

Page 10 www.oldschoolmodels.com Construction Manual
cut the bottom strip first. It will start just at the outline you made,
rearwards and stop right at the start of TW1 (refer to the plans
for these locations). The top strip starts at the drawn outline, and
stops at where STS starts. Cut these for both sides, the glue them
in place - again making sure they are aligned with the bottom of
the cutouts - not the fuselage edges themselves. Also make sure
you have a left and right side - NOT two lefts or two rights. Again,
refer to the photo.
nStep 64 - Fuse Assembly (STS)
Locate both STS from BP10.
These stab supports are glued
in place on the inside of the
fuselage sides to “beef-up”
those areas. Pay attention to
the orientation and make sure
that the curved edges of the
STS pieces are matched up to
the cutouts in the fuselage sides.
nStep 65 - Fuse Assembly (BS, F6, F7, F8)
Locate BS from BP8, F6 from
BP7, and F7, F8 from BP5. Glue
the three formers into the BS
sheet, making sure they are
completely inserted into BS and
are each 90° in relation to BS.
Note that the tabs will extend
slightly from the bottom side of
BS and that is intentional. Once
you have these three formers in place, sand away the bit of the
tabs to give you a smooth bottom surface that should not need
any filler later on.
nStep 66 - Fuse Assembly (starboard fuse sheeting)
Locate the starboard side
sheeting you prepped
a few steps back. This
is now glued to the BS
and formers as shown
here. Make sure that the
notches in the formers are
fully inserted into the side
sheeting, and all of tabs in BS are fully inserted into the notches
along the bottom edge of the side sheeting. There’s a bit of a
gentle curve in this sheeting, so make sure that the side sheeting
follows that curve as you work. Also the tabs will extend past the
sheeting a little, so they can be smoothly sanded flush later on.
nStep 67 - Fuse Assembly (port side sheeting)
Locate the port side
sheeting and attach it
using the same techniques
you used in the previous
step.
nStep 68 - Fuse Assembly (attach plywood box)
Now it’s time to test fit the plywood box to the back of the fuselage.
On the bottom of F5 is a notch. This notch is the key to lining up
these two pieces, as it should
be inserted into the cutout at
the front of BS. Dry fit this first,
and once the tab is in place, you
can then “rotate” the plywood
box as needed so it lines up
with the front of the fuselage
sides. Once you’re satisfied how these pieces go together, then
remove the plywood box and it’s time to glue it in place. If you’re
using CA for this step, use slower curing viscosities as you might
need a bit more working time to properly align the pieces. This is
one step where you might
want to use a different
glue - aliphatic resin and/or
carpenter’s could give you
a LOT more working time.
Epoxy could be used, but it
will add a bit of weight with
the amount of surface area
to cover on the side of the
fuselage box.
nStep 69 - Fuse Assembly (pushrods)
Before installing the top sheeting, now
might be a good time to think about
installing the elevator and rudder pushrods.
We typically use Dubro's Laser flexible
pushrods and you’ll see the outer red
tubing installed in this photo. We’ve pre-cut
pushrod guides into each of the formers, as
well as pre-cut pushrods exits on the rear of
the fuselage sides. If you use Dubro's, or a
similar type of pushrod system, don’t forget
to glue these tubes in place so they won’t move.
nStep 70 - Fuse Assembly (TS)
Locate TS from BP5. This is the top
sheeting and should be dry-fitted
first. There’s a notch cut into the
front edge that fits around the top
tab in F6. Then the TS’s side tabs
should be inserted into each of the
notches along the fuselage sides. When satisfied how it all goes
together, remove it, apply glue, and attach it in place.
nStep 71 - Fuse Assembly (sand the tail surfaces)
It’s time to attach the tail surfaces, but before you do, take the time
to sand the leading edges of the stab and vertical fin as they’ll be
much easier to do now, than after installation. Make sure that the
leading edges are nicely rounded, and you might want to test fit
them to the rear of the stab a few times as you sand, to get an idea
of where you might need a bit more shaping. However, do NOT
sand off the front notch that extends from the front of the vertical
fin. This is used to align this assembly to the fuselage.
nStep 72 - Fuse Assembly (attach the tail surfaces)
Once sanded, it’s time to trial fit the tail surfaces to the fuselage. With
the fuselage sitting upright and flat on your building board, you can then
slip the tail surface assembly in place, making sure that the front notch
is inserted into the cutout in F8, and the VF3 portion of the vertical fin is
nestled in between the fuselage sides. Now, if you take a measurement

Construction Manual www.oldschoolmodels.com Page 11
from the flat of the building board
to tips of the trailing edges, they
should be the same distance
(giving you a nice, horizontal stab).
If adjustment is needed, lightly
sand the taller fuselage side to
lower the higher side.
Once satisfied with the positioning,
glue this in place. Again, use the
proper amount of glue, but NOT
too much as a little extra weigh there makes a huge difference when
balancing the model later on. Slower curing CA, aliphatic resin and/or
carpenter’s is a better choice here.
nStep 73 - Fuse Assembly (TW1)
Locate TW1 from LP1. This is a tailskid
which is glued in place on the bottom
of the fuselage, into the cutouts on the
bottom of the fuselage sides. You may
need to slightly pinch the sides together to have things align
correctly.
nStep 74 - Fuse Assembly (LG2, LG3)
Locate LG2 from LP1 and three LG3s
from LP1, LP2, LP4. Make a LP3 stack by
gluing the three LP3s on top of each other.
Make sure they are perfectly aligned and
are properly aligned to each other so the pre-cut holes line up
perfectly. Then glue LG2 in place on top of this assembly. Note that
LG2 has an arrow engraved in it to designate the edge that should
face the nose of the fuselage.
nStep 75 - Fuse Assembly (LG2, LG3)
The LG2, LG3 assembly is now
attached inside the bottom of the
fuselage. First, dry fit it and you’ll
probably need to lightly sand the
sides. Refer to this photo for the
proper orientation. LG2 should
be flush with the fuselage sides,
up-against the rear of F4 and the
extra length of LG2 will extend under the BS sheeting supporting
it. Once you’ve figured this out, glue this in position, using a bit of
epoxy for strength.
nStep 76 - Fuse Assembly (LG1)
Locate LG1 from LP3. This is glued
to the surface of LG2. Note the
engraved arrow in LG1, that should
face the nose, as shown in this photo.
Glue it place, making sure it is aligned
side to side, and the holes all line up.
nStep 77 - Fuse Assembly (lower, front sheeting)
Locate the uncut sheet of 3/32"
balsa. This is used to form the lower
fuselage sheeting. This is done a
piece at a time, starting at the front
of the LG1 and extending to the
bottom of F1.
Hold the sheeting against the
fuselage, making sure the grain is cross-ways. Mark, cut and glue a
portion of the sheeting in position. Repeating this technique, work
your way forward until you almost reach F1. The final piece will
need trimmed for length and width.
nStep 78 - Fuse Assembly (hatch sanding)
Locate H1 from BP13, This is the hatch and you’ll notice that it
tapers to follow the curvature of the fuselage sides. Also, the
leading edge has the right-thrust angle cut into it. We’ve purposely
made it slightly oversized so it can be sanded smooth with the
fuselage sides and top, however, the only sanding to worry about
right now is the front edge. It will need to be sanded a bit for
length, and a bit to add an angle matching the downthrust of the
firewall. Do this a little at a time so that the hatch will easily fit into
the area between the firewall and F3. It shouldn’t be loose, but
also not a tight fit as you’ll need to account for covering you’ll be
adding later.
nStep 79 - Fuse Assembly (hatch notch cutouts)
Use a hobby knife to cut a notch on each
side of the fuselage just in front of F3.
These notches are already pre-cut into
the inner plywood box, but need to be
cut into the fuselage sides. We don’t to
this in our laser-cutting to give a bit more
support to that small piece of balsa that
makes up the front of the wing saddle area.
nStep 80 - Fuse Assembly (H2, H3)
Locate H2 and H3 from LP5.
Lay H3 across the notch you just
cutout in the fuselage, making
sure it’s centered and correctly
oriented to the slightly shorter
side faces the firewall. Put a
couple drops of glue on the
top surface of it, then carefully
position the H1 in place on the fuselage to glue the two pieces
together. Make sure H1 is centered side-to-side on the fuselage.
When glued in place, remove H1, then it’s time to attach H2. Note
that H2 has a small circle engraved to designate the starboard side,
and the front edge of this piece. It should now be glued to the
underside of H1, as shown in this photo. Centered side to side.
nStep 81 - Fuse Assembly (magnets)
Inside the tank/battery area, you'll see 4 pre-cut holes in the
plywood side-frames - two on the port side, two on the starboard.
Place a drop of glue inside one of the holes, then push in a magnet
- making sure it is completely flush the plywood side frame, but
take care that you don't damage the outer balsa skin. Do the same
for the other 3 pre-cut holes in this area.
Don't worry about positive/negative poles and attraction - that's
in the next step.
nStep 82 - Fuse Assembly (H4)
Locate the 4 H4s from LP4. Push one magnet into each H4's pre-
cut hole. Make sure the magnets completely pushed in - flush on
both sides.

Page 12 www.oldschoolmodels.com Construction Manual
nStep 83 - Hatch Assembly (H3)
This step requires attention and visualization to make sure you glue
the H4's in place so the matching magnets attract - not repel each
other.
Snap each of the H4's in place to the magnets you just installed in
the fuselage frame sides, Make sure that the flat side of each H4 is
facing upward. Now, take your H1 assembly and hold it over this
area so the wider end faces the rear of the fuse.
Make sure you're also
holding the hatch so the
balsa side is up, the plywood
frame is down.
Now, one at a time, you
can remove each H4, and
press it in place into the
corresponding pre-cut notch
on the sides of H2 and H3.
They need to stick straight
up (or down, depending on how you’re holding the hatch), 90° to
the hatch surface.
Each should be a nice, press fit that will
hold them in place fairly well so you can
dry fit the hatch before permanently
gluing the H4s in place.
Once each of the H4s are pressed in
place, dry fit and make sure each of
the corners are attracting, not repelling
each other.
When you're good with everything,
remove the hatch, then carefully glue each H4 in place, by noting
it's orientation, removing it, applying glue, then pushing it back in
to place - firmly seated and at the correct angle.
nStep 84 - Sanding
Now is the time to get quite familiar with the sanding tools of your
choice. Take the time to perform a good sanding, rounding the
wing’s leading edge and blending it into the wingtips. Go over the
entire wing, making sure the sheeting is smooth, continuing the
curvature of the wing. Pound out the extra time on those wing tips
to make sure they are smooth, perfect works of art and match each
other exactly.
Push the hatch in place then smooth out the edges of the fuselage.
Because of the 3/32” sheeting and the 3/16" balsa supports
installed inside the fuselage’s rear perimeter, you can put in a little
effort to round the edges of the fuselage if you’d like.
Round the trailing edges of the ailerons, elevator, and rudder
(BP12). Sand bevels into the leading edge of both elevator halves,
the rudder, and the ailerons. And speaking of the ailerons, round
off the back outer corners with a nice radius.
The idea is to spend some time caressing this airframe you've
created, smoothing the rough edges until it's something so smooth
that it will flow through the air with ease.
nStep 85 - Fuse Assembly (attach main gear)
Locate both pre-bent main gear wires, two landing gear straps and
four 2-56 self-tapping screws. Using
a 5/32 bit, run those down through
the holes in LG1, LG2 and LG3 to
clear out any excess glue, then push
the main gear wires into place.
To hold them in place, install the
landing gear straps as shown in the
photo. Use a 1/16” drill to make the mounting holes for the screws,
and then attach the straps in position.
nStep 86 - Fuse Assembly (nose main gear)
Everything you need to assemble
the nose gear is in one package.
The nose gear wire is partially
pushed up through the white
mounting block. Slip the steering
arm in place, then push the nose
gear wire all the way through the
arm and the block. Stop when
the wire is flush with the top of
the mounting block.
With the nose gear positioned so
the coil is towards the rear of the
plane, position the steering arm at a 25-30° angle, then tighten the
set-screw in the steering arm just tight enough so it should make
a mark on the nose gear wire. Loosen the screw and remove the
wire. Grind a small flat on the nose gear where the screw made a
mark, then re-attach. Use a touch of thread-locking compound on
the screw to make sure it doesn't vibrate loose later on down the
road (or more to the point - down the runway).
nStep 87 - Electric firewall (E1)
If (and only if) you are powering
your Fifty Six with an electric power
system, you’ll need to also install
the electric firewall pieces which
position the motor a bit further out
than a glow engine needs to be.
Locate both E1s from LP2 and LP5.
Note that the E1 pieces are a bit
more trapezoidal than rectangle.
Position these on each side of the
front fuselage cheeks as shown in the photo. The angled edge should be
up against the firewall, and the top edge flush with the top of the fuselage
sheeting. Glue these in place.
nStep 88 - Electric firewall (E2)
If (and only if) you are powering
your Fifty Six with an electric
power system, you’ll now need
to locate both E2s from LP2 and
LP4. These are glued together
to form a thicker firewall, then it
is glued into position as shown
in the photo. You may want to
slightly bevel the left and right
edges to have a better fit to the
curvature of the fuselage sides.
We recommend epoxy for this step.

Construction Manual www.oldschoolmodels.com Page 13
nStep 89 - Electric cooling scoop
If (and only if) you are powering
your Fifty Six with an electric power
system, we advise adding an air-
flow scoop to the bottom of the
fuselage, just behind the firewall.
Refer the photo for how we did it.
Simply mark and cut the bottom
sheeting on the three sides. Gently
lift the front edge and then fit two
small triangles to support the sides. You can cut the triangles from
scrap 3/32” balsa sheet.
nStep 90 - Electric air exits
If (and only if) you are powering your Fifty
Six with an electric power system, you’ll
also need to cut a few holes in the bottom
of the fuselage for the cooling air to exit.
We recommend this be down on the
underside of the fuse, in the area between F6 and F8. Refer the
photo as how we setup our prototypes.
nStep 91 - Electric firewall (optional top sheeting)
If (and only if) you are powering your Fifty Six with an electric power
system, you may want to add additional sheeting to cover the area
between F1 and the electric firewall you just installed. Although
we haven’t done this on our prototype to allow additional air for
cooling, it can be done. Just make sure to ONLY do this on the
top side, so the bottom is still open for airflow. You should have
enough scrap 3/32’ and 1/16” balsa from this sheeting, and layer it
to the height to match the top of the firewall.
nStep 92 - Tank / Battery compartment fuel proofing
If you're using a glow engine to power your Fifty Six, it is strongly
recommended that you fuel proof the inside of the battery
compartment. As you know, fuel has a nasty way of penetrating
wood, causing it to disintegrate over time. Spray (or brush) this on,
also remembering to protect the underside of the hatch and the
engine compartment (firewall and inside of the fuselage cheeks.
This completes assembly of the Fifty Six airframe. These next
few steps can be done in most any order - up until it's time to
cover.
nWing hold-down dowels.
Locate the two remaining lengths of 1/4” dowels. These are used
to create the attachment points for the wing’s rubber bands. Cut
these to length so that roughly 1”
will protrude from each side of
the fuselage’s outer sheeting.
Round both ends of each dowel
either by hand, or do it like I do
- chuck it up in a drill spin it like
a little lathe. Use sandpaper to
quickly round off one end, then
the other.
Then push these in place into the pre-cut holes in the fuselage
sides. Don’t glue these in place just yet as they’ll get in the way
when covering. But test fit them now, so you can see how they fit,
and how the wing looks like when it’s rubber banded in place.
Power system
Installing your power system of choice is up next. Here's a couple
photos showing sample electric and glow installations. Note that
these are suggestions only as your power system might vary from
what’s shown here.
Glow power
Mounting the engine is
a fairly simple thing. It
should mount upright
and use the thrust lines
on the fuselage plans as
a general guide. With the
nose gear block in place,
things are a little tight, so
plan this out before drilling
any holes. What you see in
our prototype is an O.S .30 mounted on a Dave Brown Products
engine mount (now available from Ohio Superstar as of the time
this manual was written). Other mounts will work just as well - use
what's best for you.
A 4 ounce tank works well and gives a nice flight time, although
you might be able to squeeze some 6 ounce tanks in. Again, plan
this out before committing to anything permanent.
Electric power
There's a lot of choices out there for
electric power, but we've reached
out to Innov8tive Designs for their
recommendations on power. You'll
see those on our website for both
their Cobra and BadAss brands.
What's pictured here is their Cobra
setup one of our prototypes.
Also, we're big believers in having an arming switch/plug when
using electric powerplants of this size. There's plenty of options out
there and it's something to think about. Remember, in case of an
accident, your fingers probably don't grow back!
nControl horns, servo & pushrod installation
Although you can install the servos and control hardware after covering
your Fifty Six, we find it easier to temporarily mount everything in
place before covering. This way you have unblocked access inside
the fuselage and wings to get
the servos, extensions, and
pushrods in place.
Shown in the following
photo if an example of servo
installation in one of the Fifty
Six prototypes. Glue TR3 strips
(from LP3 and LP5) where the
servos are mounted to thicken

Page 14 www.oldschoolmodels.com Construction Manual
Logos, numbers, etc.
If you want to use graphics similar to the
ones we used, Old School Model Works
has teamed up with Callie Graphics as a
supplier for pre-cut vinyl. They are a very
well known provider of custom graphics
for R/C models.
We have supplied them with the artwork
needed to cut the correct size logos. You can order straight from
them, choosing the colors that work for you.
Contact Callie Graphics at this link: https://callie-graphics.com or scan
the QR code.
Note that Callie Graphics is not affiliated with Old School Model
Works, nor does Old School Model Works generate any income
from this partnership.
Attach the Control Surfaces
Now is the time to attach all the control
surfaces to the airframe, by gluing the
hinges in position with thin C/A. We've
noted suggested hinge locations for each
of the control surfaces on the plans.
When using the CA hinges, first push a
pin through on side, at the center of the hinge as shown here. This
will keep the hinge centered as it's pushed into the surfaces. When
you've got all the hinges for a surface in place, then remove the
pins and glue the hinges.
Make sure that you attach the elevator first, then the rudder.
Attach wheels
Use the included 5/32” i.d. wheel collars to hold each wheel (not
included) on the axles. For a maintenance free installation, file
a small flat on the axle where the set screw of the wheel collar
touches. Also use a touch of thread-locking compound to keep the
screw from loosening over time.
Optional canopy
Included is a canopy and though it's certainly up to you if you
choose to use it, the canopy is just a defining part of the Fifty Six's'
outline, so why not use it?
The following steps will describe how to properly prepare and
attach it.
• Trim along it’s flat edge. You’ll want to trim away the excess
plastic and leave a smooth lip, roughly 3/16” wide around the
it’s perimeter.
• Place it on the wing and see if will over the wing's curvature,
starting at the leading edge. Not all canopies are exactly
identical, so a bit of trial and error is needed to get a good fit.
• If you’re going to add a pilot figure (not included), now is the
time to test-fit, then glue it in place.
• Give the canopy a quick wash in warm, soapy water.
• If you're going to tint or paint the canopy, do this on the inside
now and allow it to try.
• Use a bit of canopy glue to attach the canopy. So it doesn't
move while the glue cures, hold it in place with a bit of low-tack
masking tape.
the mounting surface for the servo's screws. If using standard size servos
for the elevator and rudder, you may need to stack the TR3's two-high
so the servos will clear the LG assembly underneath the tray.
Take a bit of time to plan things out, including how you'll run the
throttle and nose gear steering pushrods.
When mounting the
servos to each of the
SH's you'll need to cut
eight 3/4" lengths of the
1/4" square basswood
scrap. Make four thicker
mounting posts by
laminating two pieces
together then sand the ends flat.
Position your aileron servo on the inside of the aileron hatch so the
servo arm output shaft is centered in the opening.
On the inside of each aileron hatch, glue one post on each side of
the servo as shown in the photo.
Note that the left hatch is a mirror image of the right hatch.
Now fit the servo hatches into position on the bottom of the wing.
Using the pre-cut holes as a guide, drill four 1/16” mounting holes
into the basswood mounting posts you just installed. Harden the
wood with a bit of thin CA and you can use the supplied 2-56 x
3/4” self tapping screws to secure the hatches in place.
Finish the layout of your radio gear by adding the receiver, flight
pack battery and the switch. We mounted the receiver to the
tray by using a bit of self-adhesive hook-and-loop (not included).
The radio's switch should be mounted to the opposite side
of the muffler (to help keep the goop out of it). Or, for an even
cleaner installation, it could be installed inside the tank/battery
compartment - hidden under the hatch - VERY NICE!
Covering
Now it is time to cover the Fifty Six. Remove the powerplant, main
gear, nosewheel assembly, pushrods, and any other components
that would get in the way of applying the covering.
Double check that all surfaces are smooth and ready to cover. Sand
as necessary, then cover the entire airframe with the covering/finish
of your choice.
Note that if you’re powering with an electric motor, you’ll need
to make a hole for the cooling air to escape the bottom of the
fuselage, near the rear.
When the covering is complete, re-attach all the components you
removed earlier in this step.

Construction Manual www.oldschoolmodels.com Page 15
This completes the assembly of the Fifty Six. Now you’ll need
to adjust the control throws and check for balance.
Recommended C.G. setting:
An important part of preparing the aircraft for flight is properly
balancing the model. This is especially important because of the
various motor/battery combinations that can be used.
CAUTION! DO NOT SKIP THIS STEP!
The recommended Center of Gravity (CG) range for the Fifty Six is
3-3/4"- 3-7/8" from the leading edge of the wing, and you’ll see
this marked on the fuselage plan with this symbol.
If necessary, move the battery, receiver,
and/or add weight to either the nose
or the tail until the correct balance is
achieved. Stick-on weights are available
at your local hobby store and work well
for this purpose.
We recommend balancing it at the
forward point for the first flights, then moving it backward if you'd
like it to be a little more maneuverable.
Recommended Control Throws:
The amount of control throw should be adjusted as closely as
possible using mechanical means, rather than making large
changes electronically at the radio.
By moving the position of the clevis at the control horn toward
the outermost hole, you will decrease the amount of control throw
of the control surface. Moving it toward the control surface will
increase the amount of throw. Moving the pushrod wire at the
servo arm will have the opposite effect: Moving it closer to center
will decrease throw, and away from center will increase throw. Work
with a combination of the two to achieve something relatively
close to these throws that are good for everyday sport flying. If
competing in pattern, you'll probably want to dial these down a bit
to give a smoother appearance to your maneuvers.
Aileron 1/2” up/down (25% expo)
Elevator 3/8” up/down (20% expo)
Rudder 1” left/right (15% expo)
(Expert tip: Once the control throws have been set, cut a few
pieces of medium silicone fuel tubing (or heat shrink tubing) to
go around each of the clevises. This will keep them from opening
during ight.)
Preflight:
Charge both the transmitter and receiver pack for your airplane.
Use the recommended charger supplied with your particular radio
system, following the instructions provided with the radio. In most
cases, the radio should be charged the night before going out
flying.
Check the radio installation and make sure all the control
surfaces are moving correctly (i.e. the correct direction and with
the recommended throws). Test run the engine and make sure it
transitions smoothly from idle to full throttle and back. Also ensure
the engine is tuned according to the manufacturer’s instructions,
and it will run consistently and constantly at full throttle when
adjusted.
Check all the control horns, servo horns and clevises to make
sure they are secure and in good condition. Replace any items
that would be considered questionable. Failure of any of these
components in flight would mean the loss of your aircraft.
Range check your radio before flying
Before each flying session, range check your radio. This is
accomplished by turning on your transmitter with the antenna
collapsed. Turn on the radio in your airplane, but do not attach the
arming switch.
With your airplane on the ground, you should be able to walk 30
paces away from your airplane and still have complete control of
all functions.
If not, don’t attempt to fly! Have your radio equipment checked
out by the manufacturer.
Flying:
I normally don't write about flying our kits, but I want to make a
note here, as the Fifty Six is an old-fashioned trainer.
By that, I mean that this design is designed to climb under higher
throttle settings, and descend with lower throttle settings. The
semi-symmetrical airfoil, and the incidences built into the fuselage
give it the ability to climb quite easily.
If you're wanting to do high-speed passes along the runway, this
might not be the right model for you. It can be done by holding in
a bunch of down elevator, or by adding more down thrust behind
the motor mount.
However, that's really not the point of this design. It's meant to
be easy to fly as a trainer, and a little bit of a barnstormer for the
sport pilot. It's a lot of fun to cruise around the sky, or even shoot
touch-n-goes.

Page 16 www.oldschoolmodels.com Construction Manual
APPENDIX A

Construction Manual www.oldschoolmodels.com Page 17
APPENDIX A
APPENDIX A

Page 18 www.oldschoolmodels.com Construction Manual
APPENDIX A
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Warranty Information
Old School Model Works guarantees this kit to be free from
defects in both material and workmanship at the date of purchase.
This warranty does not cover any parts damage by use or
modification. In no case shall Old School Model Works’ liability
exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. Further, Old School
Model Works reserves the right to change or modify this warranty
without notice.
In that Old School Model Works has no control over the final
assembly or material used for the final assembly, no liability shall be
assumed nor accepted for any damage of the final user-assembled
product. By the act of using the product, the user accepts all
resulting liability.
Limit of Liability
In the use of this product, our only obligation shall be to replace
such quantity of the product proven to be defective. The user shall
determine the suitability of the product for his or her intended use
and shall assume all risk and liability in connection therewith.
If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with
the use of this product, the buyer is advised to return this kit
immediately in new and un-opened condition.
As of this printing, you are required to register with the FAA if you own this product.
For up-to-date information on how to register with the FAA, visit
https://registermyuas.faa.gov .
For additional assistance on regulations and guidance of UAS usage, visit
http://www.knowbeforeyoufly.org .