Old School Model Works Quickie 500 User manual

CONSTRUCTION
MANUAL
www.oldschoolmodels.com
Using the Manual
Be sure to read each step thoroughly before you start
the step. Test-fit the parts together to make sure they
fit properly. If necessary trim to fit.
Beside each step you will notice a check box (or two).
These are so you can keep track of your progress
while building your kit. For steps that have two boxes,
as in the construction of the left and right wing halves,
these steps must be performed two times.
• Your Old School Model Works aircraft should not be
considered a toy, but rather a sophisticated, working
model that functions very much like a full-size airplane.
Because of its performance capabilities, this model, if not
assembled and operated correctly, could possibly cause
injury to yourself or spectators, and damage to property.
• You must assemble this model according to the
instructions. Do not alter or modify this model, as doing
so may result in an unsafe or un-flyable model. In a few
cases the instructions may differ slightly from the photos.
In those instances the written instructions should be
considered as correct.
• You must take time to build straight, true and strong.
• You must use a R/C radio system that is in first-
class condition, a correctly sized power system and
components (electronics, batteries, wheels, etc.)
throughout the building process.
• You must correctly install all R/C and other components
so that the model operates correctly on the ground
and in the air. (Installation shown in the manual is a
suggestion. You may have to adjust the mounting steps
to accommodate the size of your radio equipment.)
• You must check the operation of the model before every
flight to insure that all equipment is operating and that
the model has remained structurally sound. Be sure to
check clevises or other connectors often and replace
them if they show any signs of wear or fatigue.
• If you are not an experienced pilot or have not flown this
type of model before, we recommend that you get the
assistance of an experienced pilot in your R/C club for
your first flights. If you’re not a member of a club, your
local hobby shop has information about clubs in your
area whose membership includes experienced pilots.
• While this kit has been flight tested to exceed normal
use, if this model will be used for extremely high stress
flying, such as racing, or if a power system larger than
one in the recommended range is used, the modeler is
responsible for taking steps to reinforce the high stress
points and/or substituting hardware more suitable for the
increased stress.
Remember: Take your time and follow
the instructions to end up with a well-
built model that is straight and true.
Specifications:
Wingspan: 51 in.
Wing Area: 510 sq in.
Airframe Length: 37.25 in.
Weight: 3.5-4.25 lb.

Page 2 www.oldschoolmodels.com Construction Manual
WARNING
READ THROUGH THIS MANUAL
BEFORE STARTING CONSTRUCTION.
IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT WARNINGS
AND INSTRUCTIONS CONCERNING
THE CONSTRUCTION AND USE OF THIS
MODEL.
A Radio-Controlled aircraft is not a toy!
If misused, it can cause serious bodily harm
and damage to property. Fly only in open
areas, preferably at AMA (Academy of Model
Aeronautics) approved flying sites, following all
instructions included with your radio, powerplant,
electronics and batteries.
We urge you to join the AMA (Academy of Model Aeronautics) and
a local R/C club. The AMA is the governing body of model aviation
and membership is required to fly at AMA clubs.
Though joining the AMA provides many benefits, one of the
primary reasons to join is liability protection.
Additionally, training programs and instructors are available at
AMA club sites to help you get started the right way. There are
over 2,500 AMA chartered clubs across the country. Contact the
AMA at the address or toll-free phone number below:
Academy of Model Aeronautics
5161 East Memorial Drive • Muncie, IN 47302
Phone [phone] • www.modelaircraft.org
IMPORTANT!!! Two of the most important things you
can do to preserve the radio controlled aircraft hobby are to avoid
flying near full-scale aircraft and avoid flying near or over groups
of people.
INCLUDED ITEMS
Wood parts included in this kit:
• 1 - LP1 - laser cut 1/8” x 6 x 24 sheet
• 1 - LP2 - laser cut 1/8” x 6 x 24 sheet
• 1 - BP1 - laser cut 1/8” x 4 x 24 sheet
• 1 - BP2 - laser cut 1/8” x 4 x 24 sheet
• 1 - BP3 - laser cut 1/8” x 4 x 24 sheet
• 1 - BP4 - laser cut 1/8” x 4 x 24 sheet
• 1 - BP5 - laser cut 1/8” x 4 x 24 sheet
• 1 - BP6 - laser cut 1/8” x 4 x 24 sheet
• 2 - BP7 - laser cut 1/8” x 4 x 24 sheet
• 2 - BP8 - laser cut 1/8” x 4 x 24 sheet
• 1 - BP9 - laser cut 3/32” x 4 x 24 sheet
• 1 - BP10 - laser cut 3/32” x 4 x 24 sheet
• 1 - BP11 - laser cut 3/32” x 4 x 24 sheet
• 2 - BP12 - laser cut 1/16” x 4 x 24 sheet
• 1 - BP13 - laser cut 1/16” x 4 x 24 sheet
• 1 - BP14 - laser cut 1/4” x 4 x 4 sheet
• 1 - CAP - laser cut 1/16” x 2 x 24 sheet
• 4 - 1/16” x 4 x 24 sheet
• 2 - 5/16” x 5/16” x 36” balsa strips
• 1 - 1/4” x 1/2” x 36” balsa strips
• 2 - 1/4” x 1/4” x 36” balsa strips
• 4 - 1/4” x 1/8” x 36” balsa strips
• 2.5 - 5/16” x 1-1/4” x 36” tapered balsa strips
• 4 - 3/16” x 3/8” x 24” basswood strips
• 1 - 1/4”x 6” wooden dowel
Hardware parts included in this kit:
• 2 - Pre-bent main gear wires
• Tail skid wire
• C/A type hinges for control surfaces
• 4 - control horns
• 2 - wheel collars 1/8” I.D.
• 2 - plastic gear straps
• 2 - 1/4”-20 wing bolts
• 10 - 2-56 x 3/4” machine screws
• 15 - 2-56 x 3/4” self tapping screws
Other items included in this kit:
• 2 - Rolled plans (fuselage and wing)
• 1 - Construction Manual
ITEMS NEEDED
Hardware needed (not included in the kit)
For some of these items there is more than one option which will
require a bit of decision making ahead of time. There isn’t a right or
a wrong choice, so choose the items that work best for you.
We strongly recommended supporting your local hobby shop.
• Powerplant:
.40 sized 2-stroke glow engine (or similar electric system)
• Propeller
• Engine/Motor mount and mounting hardware
• 6 ounce Fuel Tank and fuel tubing
• Receiver - (4 channel minimum)
• 4 servos - we recommend mini servos all around, although
modifications can be made to use other sizes. In our prototypes
we used Tactic TSX25's).
• “Y” servo harness (for ailerons)
• Pushrods (two 5” for ailerons, two 24” for elevator & rudder,
one 10” for throttle)
• 10 Clevises for the pushrods.
• 1 pair of 2-1/4" or 2-1/2” diameter wheels
• Covering
Additional Required Building Tools and Adhesives
• Drill & assorted drill bits
• Hobby knife and #10 blades
• Sandpaper: coarse (80 or 100 grit) & medium (150-200 grit)
• Pencil or pen
• Ruler
• T-Pins
• Waxed paper
• Building board
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including lead, which
is known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other
reproductive harm. For more information go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.

Construction Manual www.oldschoolmodels.com Page 3
• 2-part epoxy (6 or 15 minute)
• Epoxy brushes and mixing sticks
• Wood adhesives of your choice. We use medium CA
(cyanoacrylate) viscosities, but aliphatic resin and/or carpenter’s
glues will work just as well and give longer working time.
• Thin CA for attaching the included hinges
Before Starting Assembly
Although an easy to build kit, our Quickie 500 kit is not for the
novice builder. We are assuming the builder is used to constructing
balsa kits and has the techniques and skills necessary to do so.
Closely inspect the supplied laser cut parts for damage. If you find
any damaged or missing parts, contact us immediately.
When removing the laser cut parts from their sheets, you’ll notice
the parts are held in place by several small “tabs”. These tabs
are uncut pieces of wood and can sometimes make it difficult to
remove a part. Rather than breaking and/or splintering the wood
by forcing out the part, we recommend removing any laser cut
parts from their sheets by using a hobby knife with a #10 blade.
A quick cut of the tab will allow the piece to be removed with no
damage. Sand any tab remainders flush with the part so there will
be no problem aligning them later.
It’s best to not remove parts from their sheets until they are needed.
Refer to Appendix A of this manual as a reference to what all the
laser cut parts look like and are called.
You’ll notice a check box next to each step. Check these off as
you go along so you don’t miss a step. Note that some steps (in
building the wing) have two boxes - this means that the step will be
done twice - once for each wing half.
There could be a step or two which leaves you a bit puzzled. If this
happens, step back and study the photo(s) for that step - both in
this manual and online.
All photos shown in this manual are of different prototype Quickie
500s. Several pieces may have changed slightly with improvements
we’ve made so parts may look a little different in some steps.
Online Supplementary Photos
We realize that the smaller black-and-white photos in this manual
might not show some of the steps as clearly as you might want.
So we’ve anticipated this and made these photos available on our
website. You can either scan the QR code or type this address into
your browser:
www.oldschoolmodels.com/mpics/q500
Let’s begin construction by working on the starboard (right)
wing of your Quickie 500.
Prepare your work area
You’ll need a flat building
surface that is a minimum of
30” long. Position the starboard
wing plan over the surface and
tape into position. Tear off a
length of waxed paper long
enough to cover the right wing plan and tape that into position,
over the plan.
Step 1 - Alignment triangles
Pre-cut into LP1 are two triangles,
one inside the other. These can be
used to vertically align any of the
parts in the construction of your
Q500. LP1 also includes two foot
pieces that can be used with the triangles to hold both triangles
vertical hands-free.
We recommend using the smaller triangle in the wing construction
as it’s small enough to fit between the ribs.
Step 2 - Wing Assembly (position lower spar)
Using a length of 3/16 x 3/8” basswood,
measure and cut it to form the lower spar.
Attach it over the plans, using a few small
drops of medium CA along it’s length (or
you could use t-pins).
Be sure it is aligned properly and is
straight over it’s entire length. The
alignment of this spar is critical as
the rest of the wing panel is based
off this single piece.
Use a yardstick or long straight-
edge to ensure this piece is straight.
Step 3 - Wing Assembly (R6)
Locate one of R6 ribs from BP9/
BP10 and one of the SB4 sheer
webs from BP12.
We find it easiest to glue SB4 to
BP10 first with a touch of thin
CA; making sure it's 90° as
shown in the first picture. Then
position R6 in place on over the
plans as shown, making sure it
is completely pushed onto the
bottom spar.
IT IS VERY IMPORTANT THAT YOU ASSEMBLE THE QUICKIE
500 KIT IN THE ORDER DESCRIBED. SKIPPING FORWARD
IN THE STEPS COULD LEAVE YOU WITHOUT THE PROPER
LENGTHS OF WOOD TO FINISH THE KIT.
WE’VE INCLUDED ENOUGH WOOD TO EASILY COMPLETE
THIS KIT, BUT YOU MUST TAKE CARE TO PROPERLY
MEASURE AND NOT WASTE WOOD WHEN CUTTING.

Page 4 www.oldschoolmodels.com Construction Manual
Step 4 - Wing Assembly (R5 ribs)
Locate three R5 ribs from BP9/
BP10 and three SB4 sheer webs
from BP12.
Using the same techniques as
you used to attach the R6 rib in
the last step, glue each of the
R5 ribs in place, one at a time as
shown here.
Step 5 - Wing Assembly (SB7)
Locate three SB7 rear webs from
BP12. These are installed into
each of the attached ribs, into
the pre-cut slots at the rear of
these three ribs.
Step 6 - Wing Assembly (R4 ribs)
Locate two R4 ribs from BP9/
BP10 and two SB4 sheer webs
from BP12.
Attach them in place as shown.
Step 7 - Wing Assembly (SB7)
Locate two SB7 rear webs from
BP12. These are installed into
each of the attached ribs, into
the pre-cut slots at the rear of
these two ribs.
Step 8 - Wing Assembly (R3, SB3)
Locate one R3 rib from BP11 and
two SB3 sheer webs from BP12.
Glue both SB3's to R3, making sure
you attach them to the left side of
the rib, as shown here. Also make
sure they are both 90° to the rib.
Now glue R3 in place as shown,
making sure it is completely
pushed onto the bottom spar.
Step 9 - Wing Assembly (R3, SB2)
Locate one R3 rib from BP11 and
two SB2 sheer webs from BP12.
Glue both SB2's to R3, making sure
you attach them to the left side of
the rib, as shown here. Also make
sure they are both 90° to the rib.
Now position R3 in place as shown,
making sure it is completely pushed
onto the bottom spar.
Step 10 - Wing Assembly (SB7)
Locate two SB7 rear webs from
BP12. These are installed into
each of the attached R3 ribs, into
the pre-cut slots at the rear of
these two ribs.
Step 11 - Wing Assembly (R2)
Locate one R2 rib from BP11 and
two SB1 sheer webs from BP12.
Note that both SB1's have a small
circle engraved in them. This
designates the top and the edge
that attaches to R1.
Glue both SB1's to R2, making sure
you attach them to the left side of
the rib, as shown here. Also make sure they are both 90° to the rib.
Now glue R2 in place as shown, making sure it is completely
pushed onto the bottom spar.
Step 12 - Wing Assembly (R1)
Locate one R1 rib and two WH4
wing-peg supports from LP1. You'll
also need one SB5 sheer web from
BP12.
Note that both WH4's and SB5
have a small circle engraved in
them. This designates the top and
the edge that attaches to R1.
We strongly suggest you dry fit
all these parts together first, as it's a bit
more involved than the previous steps.
Slide R1 in position, making sure the SB5
tabs are inserted into the pre-cut slots
in R1 & R2. You'll also need to insert the
WH4's and SB5 in place, making sure
they are all properly aligned and all tabs are fully seated.
When properly installed, the R1 rib will have a very slight angle
(1.5°) which is half of the total dihedral that's built into the wing.
Step 13 - Wing Assembly (WB1)
Locate one WB1 from LP1.
Note that WB1 has a small circle
engraved designating the side that
faces rib R1.
Glue this piece in place as shown, in
the pre-cut "step" on the back of the
R1 and R2 ribs.
Step 14 - Wing Assembly (leading edge)
Locate one of the 5/16" square
balsa strips. This is used as the
wing's leading edge. It will need
to be trimmed to length, but leave
it slightly oversized so it extends
roughly 1/8" past R1 and about
a 1/4" past the wing tip shown
on the plans. Glue this in place,
making sure it is securely glued to each rib.

Construction Manual www.oldschoolmodels.com Page 5
Step 15 - Wing Assembly (trailing edge)
Locate one of the 1/4" square balsa
strips. This is used as the wing's trailing
edge. It will need to be trimmed to
length, but leave it slightly oversized
so it extends roughly 1/8" past R1 and
about a 1/4" past the wing tip shown
on the plans. Glue this in place, making
sure it is securely glued to each rib.
Step 16 - Wing Assembly (R2 & R3 cutouts)
Now it's time to cut-away the center
of two ribs - R2 and R3 next to it. Here
are the before and after photos to help
show what needs to be done.
Make sure that the area is completely
clean and smooth, as later on this will
be a channel where the dihedral brace
will slide through. The cleaner it is
now, the easier it will be to slide in the
brace when it's time.
Take your time and use a gentle touch
in this step as you don't want to cut
more than you should, nor do you
want to damage the sheer webs in
these spots as it could weaken the
wing or cause a misalignment.
Step 17 - Wing Assembly (upper spar)
Locate another of the 3/16" x 3/8”
basswood strips. This is used as
the upper spar. It will need to be
trimmed to length, but leave it
slightly oversized so it extends
roughly 1/16" past R1 and ends
at the outer edge of R6. Glue this
in place, making sure it is securely
attached to each rib and completely pushed into the pre-cut slots
of each rib.
Step 18 - Wing Assembly (upper leading edge sheeting)
Locate one of the un-cut
1/16" x 4" x 24" balsa sheets.
You will need to split this in
to two pieces for the upper
leading and trailing edge
sheeting.
Measure and cut a 1-3/4" x
24" strip and put that aside.
The remaining 2-1/4" strip will be the leading edge sheeting.
It’s best to glue the forward edge of the sheeting to the leading
edge first.
To apply constant and firm pressure along the length of the
sheeting we advise using
a yardstick or long straight-
edge. Place the thin edge
of the straight-edge it on
top of the sheeting and
hold (or tape in place) it
until the glue cures.
Carefully position a couple of weights on the rear of the wing to
keep it in place while attaching the sheeting. We used a couple of
larger LiPo packs, but most anything with a little weight will work.
Once the glue holding the front edge of the sheeting has cured,
apply glue to the ribs where the sheeting will attach, as well as the
upper spar. Then gently wrap the sheeting around the curvature of
the wing ribs.
Note: using the same straight-edge, apply constant and firm
pressure to the sheeting by slowly working from the leading edge,
pushing the sheeting on to the ribs. Slowly work your way back to
the rear of this piece of sheeting, until it is attached to the upper
spar.
Step 19 - Wing Assembly (upper trailing edge sheeting)
Before attaching the trailing edge
sheeting, lightly sand the trailing edge.
As you can see in this diagram, not much
needs to be removed - just enough to
allow the continuation of the airfoil shape.
Once sanded, use the 1-3/4" strip of
1/16" sheeting you cut away in the
previous step as the trailing edge
sheeting.
You will need to cut out a notch around
WB1 as shown here, before you glue
this piece in position. Take your time
to get a good fit, then apply glue to each
of the ribs, the trailing edge and all of the
rear sheer webs. Then attach the sheeting
in position.
Step 20 - Wing Assembly (upper WS sheeting)
Locate two WS pieces
from BP13. These pieces
are glued together to
form a single piece
of center sheeting, as
shown in the photo.
We've purposely made
each piece slightly longer
than needed, to allow
you to adjust their length
to get a perfect fit between the leading and trailing edge sheeting.
To adjust the length, place each piece in position, then trim as
needed on the narrower area, where the two pieces overlap.
When edge gluing the sheeting pieces together, first make sure
the edges are flat (give a quick, swipe or two with a sanding block).
Then tape the two pieces together with a piece of tape. As you lift
the sheeting from the board you’ll see that the tape will act as a
hinge allowing you to put a small amount of adhesive in the joint.
When the adhesive is applied, place the sheeting back down on
the waxed paper, so that it’s flat. When cured, you’ll now have a
single, longer piece of sheeting after you remove the tape.
R2 & R3 before cutting
After cutting

Page 6 www.oldschoolmodels.com Construction Manual
When finished, glue this piece
in place, making sure it is
securely glued to each of the
ribs, the upper spar, and the
leading/trailing sheeting.
Step 21 - Wing Assembly (top cap strips)
Included in the kit is a piece of
1/16" x 2" x 24" sheeting that
is pre-cut into 1/4" strips. These
strips are to be used as cap-
strips for the wing.
Carefully measure and cut cap
strips to cover the exposed
R3, R4 and R5 ribs (but NOT
R6), These strips will cover the
ribs between the leading and trailing edge sheeting. These strips
should also be centered on each rib.
Step 22 - Wing Assembly (reinforce glue joints)
Remove the wing from the building board and make sure that all
of the wood to wood joints are securely glued together. Especially
check that all of the sheer webs are glued to the ribs and the spars.
If not, run a thin bead of glue where needed.
Step 23 - Wing Assembly (wing dowel marks)
With the wing flipped over, mark
where the leading edge will need be
cut to allow the wing dowel to be
inserted in a later step.
Step 24 - Wing Assembly (WB3)
Locate four of the WB3 pieces from
LP1. These are glued in place as
shown, with two up against the R1
and R2 ribs, the other two on the
outer edges of the circular cutout in
WB1.
Step 25 - Wing Assembly (WB2)
Locate WB2. It is glued in
place as shown, on top of
the WB3 pieces installed in
the previous step.
Note that WB2 has a small
circle engraved designating
the edge that faces to R1.
Make sure it is securely
glued to each WB3 as well as the RB1 and RB2 ribs.
Step 26 - Wing Assembly (tab removal)
Now it’s time to remove the tabs from the
bottom of the trailing edge. These should
be carefully cut away, then sanded so they
allow the continuation of the airfoil's shape
as shown here.
Because R1 is made from ply, we found it
easiest to first use a pair of side-cutters or a
saw to remove the majority of the tab, then
sand.
Step 27 - Wing Assembly (aileron servo rails)
Locate the leftover 3/16” x 3/8”
basswood strips you cut when
creating the spars.
Measure and cut two lengths to
span the width between the R4
ribs, leaving an extra 1/8” or so on
each side.
Slide these pieces into the pre-cut
slots in the ribs, forming the servo
rails. Glue these in position.
Step 28 - Wing Assembly (hinge supports)
Using scrap 1/4" square balsa, cut 4 pieces to form hinge supports.
These are glued to the inside of the trailing edge, as we show on
the plans, to give more surface area for the hinges to attach.
Step 29 - Wing Assembly (lower leading edge sheeting)
Using the same techniques
you did when cutting and
installing the upper sheeting,
locate another of the un-cut
1/16" x 4" x 24" sheets. Make
a cut to form a 1-3/4" x 24"
strip and put that aside.
Weigh down the wing as
before, then glue the 2-1/4"
strip to the underside of the leading edge. Then, apply glue to the
ribs and spar so you can attach the rest of the sheeting to the wing.
Step 30 - Wing Assembly (lower leading edge sheeting)
Lightly sand the trailing edge
to allow the continuation of
the airfoil shape. Now use the
1-3/4" strip of 1/16" sheeting
you cut away in the previous
step as the trailing edge
sheeting.
You will need to cut out a notch
around WB2 as shown here,
before you glue this piece in
position. Take your time to get a good fit, then apply glue to each
of the ribs, the trailing edge and all of the rear sheer webs.
Removed tab before
sanding
After sanding

Construction Manual www.oldschoolmodels.com Page 7
Step 31 - Wing Assembly (lower WS sheeting)
Locate two WS pieces from BP13. These pieces are glued together
to form a single piece of lower center sheeting.
Using the same techniques you used to cut and install the upper
WS sheets, trim, glue and install these WS piece to form the lower
center sheeting.
Step 32 - Wing Assembly (bottom cap strips)
Measure, cut and glue strips of 1/16" x 2" x 24" sheeting for the
bottom cap-strips.
Use the same techniques as you used when applying the top cap
strips earlier in the build.
Step 33 - Wing Assembly (trim strip)
You should have spare lengths
of 5/16” or 1/4" square balsa,
trimmed from the leading
edge.
Use these pieces to make a
strip that will be glued to the
basswood mounts for the
aileron hatches. They should
run the width between the cap
strips and be flush with the
outer surface of the cap strips - as shown here.
These is not a structural pieces. Instead they are trim pieces that
aid in covering later on, as you’ll have to cut out the covering in this
area to install the servo and hatch.
Step 34 - Wing Assembly (R7)
Locate one R7 rib from BP9/
BP10. This are glued to the face
of R6 as shown, to double up the
piece.
Take care not to get any excess
glue into the rectangular pre-cut
slots of R6 and R7, as they need
to be open for the next step.
Step 35 - Wing Assembly (T1-T5)
Locate one set of T1 - T5 tip supports from BP1. Pay attention to
the order they are installed (T1
nearest the leading edge, back
to T5 closest to the the trailing
edge.)
When properly installed, the
notch on each piece should go
through both the R7 and R6 ribs.
Glue these in place.
Step 36 - Wing Assembly (T6, T7, and T8)
Locate one T6 & T7 from BP12
and one T8 from BP13. These
are all used to form the upper
tip sheeting.
Using the same technique to
join sheeting as you did to
join the WS pieces together
in step 20, glue T6 to T7, then
T7 to T8.
Note that the grain of T6 and T7 will be with the length of the wing,
while T8 will be against it. This allows T6 and T7 to easily bend to
over the leading edge.
Test fit first, then when satisfied with the fit, glue this sheeting in
position, making sure it is firmly glued to each tip support, the top
of R7 as well as the leading and trailing edge pieces.
Step 37 - Wing Assembly (trim trailing edge)
Refer to this photo to aid in
trimming the trailing edge piece.
It needs to be angled as we've
shown here so it will allow the
sheeting (installed in the next
step) to be correctly installed.
Step 38 - Wing Assembly (lower tip sheeting)
Using scrap 1/16th
sheeting (NOT sheeting
from the other 1/16" x
4" x 24" sheets), cut a few
pieces to form a length that
will run from T1 back to the
trailing edge. We suggest
you cut the pieces slightly
oversized just in case they
are slightly mis-aligned.
(You can easily remove the extra when sanding.)
Note the grain will run with the length of the wing as shown here.
Test fit first, then when satisfied with the fit, glue this sheeting in
position, making sure it is firmly glued to each tip support, R7 as
well as the leading and trailing edge pieces as it twists from front
to rear.
Step 39 - Wing Assembly (T9)
Locate four T9 pieces from
BP14. These are stacked in the
empty space between T1 and
the leading edge.
Note that the pieces used in the
photo might look a bit sloppy
compared to your pieces. These
were hand-cut from scrap for the
prototype - your's are laser-cut.
Glue these in place as shown. You'll need to slightly notch the rear
edge of the leading edge strip to allow the the front T9 to slot into
place.
Wing Assembly (port wing)
Set the starboard wing half aside and begin work on the port (right)
wing half. Tape the port wing plan and fresh wax paper on your
board. Then go back and follow steps 2 through 39 to assemble
the port wing half. Once finished, then move on to step 40 to
complete the wing assembly.
Note that when building the port half, some of the parts will need
to be glued to the opposite side (sheer webs, etc.). Always refer
to the plans to make sure you’re gluing the parts together in the
correct way.

Page 8 www.oldschoolmodels.com Construction Manual
Step 40 - Wing Assembly (tip sanding)
You will need to sand the tip to shape
at some point - either now, or once
the wing is completed. We chose to
get most of the rough sanding done
before joining the wings halves so
we could more closely compare the
shape of the port and starboard tips.
You should end up with a couple of
matching tips that look pretty close to
these photos.
Step 41 - Wing Assembly (R1 cutout and sanding.)
On the root rib (R1) you will now
need to cut out a square hole. This
will be between the pre-cut slots
for the sheer webs, as we've shown
here. Do this for both wing halves.
We carefully used a rotary tool to
do most of the work, then cleaned
up everything with a hobby knife.
Do not cut into the sheer webs as
you can weaken them.
Now take a little time and block
sand the root (R1) ribs to remove any
protruding sheeting and/or sticks. You'll need both of these ribs to
be sanded perfectly flat so they will properly butt-up against each
other in a couple steps.
Step 42 - Wing Assembly (D1, D2)
Locate D1 from LP1 and both
D2s from BP7.
These pieces are laminated
together with a thin layer
of epoxy to form the wing's
dihedral brace.
D1 will be sandwiched
between both D2s. To insure it
stays perfectly aligned, clamp
or weigh down this assembly
until the glue fully cures.
Step 43 - Wing Assembly (join wing halves)
Now test fit the dihedral brace into the wing slots. You will
probably have to do a bit of sanding on the brace to allow it to
easily fit into each slot. Don't take off too much, too fast. Carefully
sand as necessary to make sure everything fits properly and the R1
ribs in each wing half are touching along their entire length when
assembled into a single wing. Take your time and get a good fit
that doesn't require a lot of force.
After test fitting, join the wing halves permanently with a bit more
30 minute epoxy. Remove the dihedral brace and apply the epoxy
into the pockets in each wing half and also coat the faces of each R1.
Slide all the dihedral brace into one of the wing halves, then slide
remaining wing half in place. Using a couple of clamps (or tape),
hold wing halves firmly together. Wipe off any excess epoxy and
remove the clamps only after the epoxy has fully cured.
Remember, any twist in the alignment of the panels cannot be
Before cutting
After cutting
fixed after the epoxy cures and will lead to a poor flying model.
If you choose to overpower and/or race this Q500, a thin
layer of fiberglass cloth (not included) should be added
around the perimeter of the center seam to add strength.
Step 44 - Wing Assembly (cut holes for servo wires)
On the plans you'll see a callout suggesting a spot where a hole
needs to be cut in each side of the top WS sheeting. This hole
allows the aileron servo wires to pass through the sheeting and exit
the wing. Make these roughly 1/2" to 3/4" in diameter.
Step 45 - Wing Assembly (optional strings)
This step is optional, but could make the aileron servo installation
a bit easier, once the wings are covered. Cut two 12” lengths of
string, one for the port wing, one for the starboard. Starting with
the port wing panel, push the thread through this hole just cut in
the previous step, then through the circular holes in R2, R3, and
R4. The string will now extend from the servo bay, out through the
bottom of the wing. Tape both ends of the string so they won’t
easily pull out. Do the same for the starboard panel.
Step 46 - Wing Assembly (wing dowels)
Remember those marks you
made on the leading edge of the
wing halves, showing where the
holes for wing dowels should be
cut? Well it's time to cut those
holes.
First, locate the 6” length of
1/4” dowel. Cut two 2-1/2” lengths and round one end of each
dowel, as shown in the photo.
Now cut the holes into the leading edge of the wing, making cure
they are centered on the leading edge strip. Cut the holes a bit
undersized, then gradually enlarge the holes into you get a nice,
snug fit. Test fit the dowels and note the feel as the dowel slips
through both internal WH4 pieces.
Place glue on the lower part of the dowel and insert the dowel
through both WH4s, leaving approximately 1/3” of the dowel
exposed.
This completes assembly of the Quickie 500 wing.
Now it’s time to start construction of the tail surfaces.
Prepare your work area
Now tape a fresh piece of waxed paper on your building board.
Step 47 - Horizontal Stab (ST1A, ST1B, ST2A, ST2B)
Locate ST1A from BP4, ST1B from BP5, ST2A from BP6 and ST2B
from BP3.
Each pair of these pieces
are glued together (A
to B) to form a stabilizer
sheet as you see here.
Make sure the pieces are
held perfectly flat while
the glue is curing.

Construction Manual www.oldschoolmodels.com Page 9
Prepare your work area
Position the fuselage side plan over the surface and tape into
position. Tear off a length of waxed paper long enough to cover
the plan and tape that into position, over the plan.
Step 54 - Fuselage Assembly (fuselage sides)
Locate both FS2As from BP8
and FS2Bs from BP7.
Glue one FS2A to one FS2B to
form a fuselage side sheet. Then
do the same to create the other
side sheet.
Make sure the joints are
perfectly flat while the glue cures.
Step 55 - Fuselage Assembly (FS1, TR)
Locate TR from LP1 and one FS1
from LP2.
Note the orientation of TR - the
large servo cutouts will face forward,
while the lightning circles will face
aft.
Glue TR to FS1 as shown, making
sure it is 90° (use the included triangle to help get this right).
Step 56 - Fuselage Assembly (F4)
Locate F4 from LP2. Glue this in place
as shown, making sure F4's tabs are
fully inserted through FS1.
Step 57 - Fuselage Assembly (WH1, WH2)
Locate WH1 and WH2 from LP2.
These two pieces are laminated together as
shown here, making sure that the edges of
both pieces are perfectly aligned.
Step 58 - Fuselage Assembly (WH1, WH2)
Glue the WH1/WH2 assembly in
place as shown here, making sure the
large tab on WH2 faces the rear of
the assembly (refer to photo).
The WH1 should be facing you when
held in this orientation.
Step 59 - Fuselage Assembly (FS1, F5)
Locate the other FS1 and F5 from
LP1. FS1 is glued in place to form
the other side of the fuselage box as
shown. Make sure that all the tabs are
fully inserted and that all pieces are
securely glued together.
The attach F5 in place to form the rear
end of the fuselage box. Note that
Step 48 - Horizontal Stab (stab trailing edge)
Locate the 1/4" x 1/2" balsa strip.
Measure and cut the trailing edge of
the stabilizer, then glue it to one of
the two stab sheets you created in the
previous step (it doesn't matter which
one.)
When gluing it, make sure the stab
sheet is held against the building
surface so it will be flat.
Step 49 - Horizontal Stab (stab completion)
Now glue the other stab
sheet in place, making sure
both sheets are perfectly
aligned. Again, clamp or
weigh down the pieces until
the glue cures.
Also make sure that the pre-
cut slot remains free of glue.
Step 50 - Vertical Fin (VF1A, VF1B, VF2A, VF2B)
Locate VF1A, VF1B, VF2A, and
VF2B from BP2. Just as you did
with the stab sheets, make a set
of vertical fin sheets, as shown
here.
Step 51 - Vertical Fin (VF1A, VF1B, VF2A, VF2B)
Using the 1/4" x 1/2" balsa strip, measure
and cut the trailing edge of the vertical fin,
then glue it to one of the two fin sheets
you created in the previous step (it doesn't
matter which one.)
When gluing it, make sure the fin sheet is
held against the building surface so it will
be flat.
Step 52 - Horizontal Stab (vertical fin completion)
Now glue the other fin sheet in
place, making sure both sheets
are perfectly aligned. Again,
clamp or weigh down the pieces
until the glue cures.
Step 53 - Rudder (RD)
Locate both RD from BP7. Using
the 1/4" x 1/2" balsa strip, measure
and cut the leading edge of the
rudder, then glue it to one of the
RD pieces.
Then glue the other RD in place,
making sure both RD pieces are
aligned.
This completes assembly of the Quickie 500's tail surfaces.
Now it’s time to start construction of the fuselage.

Page 10 www.oldschoolmodels.com Construction Manual
Step 66 - Fuselage Assembly (BS)
Now the BS assembly is attached to the fuselage to form and align
the rear half.
First attach BS by pushing the large tab on the bottom of F5 into
the pre-cut slot on the front end of BS.
Then working one former at a time, carefully push the tabs in F6, F7
and F8 into the pre-cut notches in each fuselage side.
Step 67 - Fuselage Assembly (TW1, TW2)
Locate TW1 and TW2 from LP1. These are
glued together, centering TW1 on top of
TW2, with their short, flat edges lined-up.
Then this assembly is glued to the back
of the fuselage as shown here.
Step 68 - Fuselage Assembly (F1, F2)
Locate F1 and F2 from LP2. F2 is glued
in place on the front of the fuselage
as shown here. We recommend
using some epoxy for strength here.
Don't overdo it as we'll add more to
strengthen this area later on.
Use a bit more epoxy to glue F1 to
the front of F2. Clamp in place while
the glue cures.
Step 69 - Fuselage Assembly (1/8" x 1/4" strips)
Locate two more of the 1/8"
x 1/4" balsa strips. These are
cut and glued to go along
the top edges of the fuselage
sides. They run from the front
of the stab mount at F8 all the
way up to the firewall (F2).
Step 70 - Fuselage Assembly (WH3)
Locate eight WH3 from LP1 and
LP2. Two assemblies are made
by gluing stacks of four pieces
together as shown. Take care to
align the parts as you stack them.
Step 71 - Fuselage Assembly (WH3)
Now the two WH3 assemblies from
the previous step are now glued
inside the fuselage, on top of the
each side of the WH1/WH2 piece
that was installed earlier.
the large WH2 tab will fit into F5 to aid in alignment and strength.
Step 60 - Fuselage Assembly (F3)
Locate F3 from LP1. Glue this in place
as shown, making sure that the end
with the two holes is on the bottom of
the fuse (where the wing-saddle cut-
outs are).
Step 61 - Fuselage Assembly (F3B)
Locate F3B from LP1. This is used
to double-up the wing holes in F3.
Glue this in place on the front of F3
(in the tank area), making sure that
the holes are perfectly lined up.
Step 62 - Sanding (attach fuse sides)
Now the balsa sub-
assemblies are glued to each
side of the plywood fuselage
box. The sides are aligned by
the tabs that extend out of
the fuselage box.
We recommended gluing
one side at a time. Make sure
that each fuse side is held
flat on your work surface and properly glued to the sides of the
fuselage box (FS1).
Step 63 - Fuselage Assembly (F6, F7, F8)
Locate F6, F7 from BP1 and
F8 from BP2.
Each of these need to be
strengthened by adding a
strip of balsa to the top and
bottom as we show here.
Cut these pieces from the scrap 3/32" wood not used in BP9, BP10
and BP11. When gluing these scrap strips in place, make sure that
their grain runs cross-ways to the grain in the formers.
Step 64 - Fuselage Assembly (1/8" x 1/4" strips)
Locate BS from BP1 and two
of the 1/8" x 1/4" balsa strips.
Measure, cut and glue these
strips so they are on top of
BS, along the outer edges and
matching the curvature of BS
as shown on the shaded areas
in this photo.
Step 65 - Fuselage Assembly (BS)
Each of the F6, F7 and F8
formers are glued into place
as shown here, making sure
they are all 90° to the surface
of BS.
Glue them to BS as well as
the strips you just installed in
the previous step.
Balsa strips

Construction Manual www.oldschoolmodels.com Page 11
Step 72 - Fuselage Assembly (H2, H3)
Locate both H2s and both H3s from LP2.
These form the hatch hold-down plates.
Glue one H2 to H3, then glue the other
H2 to H3 to form a left and a right piece.
Then glue these in place, into the top
notches of F3, and parallel with the fuse
sides as shown here.
Step 73 - Fuselage Assembly (H4)
Locate H4 from LP2. It is glued
in place on the top of the firewall,
between the balsa strips as shown
here. Make sure it is flush with the
top edges of both fuselage sides.
Step 74 - Fuselage Assembly (wing alignment)
To align the wing properly on the fuselage, place the wing in
position, by pushing the wing dowels into the pre-cut holes in F3.
Lightly sand if necessary for a smooth fit.
Then allow the wing to rest
in the wing saddle. The wing
is perfectly aligned when the
distance from the left wing tip
to the rear of the fuselage is the
same the distance when measured
from the right wing tip.
Step 75 - Fuselage Assembly (drill wing bolt holes)
With the wing aligned, drill two 3/16” holes for the wing bolts,
using the pre-cut holes in WB1 as a guide. Carefully push the bit
down through both WB1 and WB2 before drilling. Once the bit is
resting on the surface of the un-drilled WH1/WH2/WH3 assembly
in the fuselage, then carefully drill through the WH1/WH2/WH3
assembly. Use caution to make sure the wing does not move until
both holes are drilled.
When drilling, take your time and make sure the drill is held so the
bit is perpendicular with the wing’s sheeting. This will make it so
the wing bolt goes in at an angle, but the screw’s head will be flat
on the wing surface.
Remove the drill, remove the wing and clean up around the new
holes you drilled. Then run a 1/4x20 tap through the WH1/WH2/
WH3 assembly so that the wing bolts will thread into this block. If
you don't have access to a 1/4x20 tap, you can also use a 1/4x20
steel screw.
A few drops of thin CA will help strengthen and secure the threads
you’ve cut after they've been tapped.
If you prefer, you can also use 1/4x20 t-nuts instead of threading
into the wood (not included). To use these you will first have to
enlarge the holes you just drilled to 1/4".
Step 76 - Fuselage Assembly (stab support)
Using some scrap 5/16" square balsa,
cut two pieces to use as internal stab
supports as shown here. They should
both be flush with the top edges of the
fuselage.
Step 77 - Fuselage Assembly (round stab/fin leading edges)
Before installing the vertical fin and stab into the fuselage, take the
time to sand them and round off the leading edges of both pieces.
It’s much easier to do this now than to try it after they’re installed.
Step 78 - Fuselage Assembly (stab alignment)
Although we’ve done everything possible to engineer the Quickie
500 so it will build straight and true, take a few minutes to guarantee
things indeed are straight before gluing on the tail surfaces.
To align the stab, first
install the wing. Now
place the horizontal stab
in place on the fuselage. Look at the fuselage straight on, from the
nose (or tail) and make sure that the stab is level with the wings.
If not, remove the stab and gently sand the stab support on the
high side, a little at time. Check the stab and re-sand the support if
needed until you see the stab as level.
Once leveled, ensure that the
stab is aligned with the wing
by measuring the distance from
the left wing tip to the left tip
of the stab. Compare this to the
distance between the right wing and
stab tip. Slide the stab a bit until these
two measurements are equal.
Make a couple of marks where
the stab touches the fuselage so
you can place it back in the same
position.
Remove the stab, apply glue on
the stab supports, then attach
the stab in place.
Step 79 - Fuselage Assembly (vertical fin)
The vertical fin is installed next, with the fin’s tab sliding through
the slot pre-cut in the stab. Lightly sand the tab if necessary to get
a firm, slop-free fit.
Use the included large triangle to insure the fin is a perfect 90° to
the stab.
Once properly in position, it’s time to glue the fin in position. Take
a bit of time to make sure these glue joints are sufficient, but don’t
use too much glue as it will make the Quickie 500 unnecessarily
tail-heavy.
Also, don't put a large bead of glue between the fin and stab as
we'll be adding a support block to each side of the fuse in a later
step.
Step 80 - Fuselage Assembly (LG4/LG5)
Locate LG4 and LG5 from BP1. These
are layered on top of each other as
shown here.
Note that there are small circles
engraved on both pieces. Make sure the
corners with these circles are aligned
(so the circles stack up). Whe properly
aligned, you should be able to see how
the offsets in LG4's slot will lineup with the pre-cut holes in LG5.
Keep the slot and holes clear of glue when assembling.
C C
BB
A A

Page 12 www.oldschoolmodels.com Construction Manual
Step 81 - Fuselage Assembly (LG4/LG5)
Now glue the LG4/LG5 assembly in place on the bottom of the
fuselage, with the back edge of this assembly aligned with the
back edge of F3 - refer to the plans. LG4 (the piece with the large
slot) should be facing outwards and be visible when the piece is
installed.
Step 82 - Fuselage Assembly (LG1, LG2)
Locate both LG1 pieces from LP1.
These are glued together to form
a thicker LG1. Now this piece
is glued in position inside the
fuselage. It should rest on top of
the LG4/LG5 just installed, and be
pushed back up against F3. Also
note the angle of the slot so it
matches what we've shown in this
photo. This slot should line up with the pre-cut hole in LG5.
Keep the slot in LG1 free of glue during this step.
Now do the same with both LP2 pieces, gluing them inside the
opposite side of the fuselage.
Step 83 - Fuselage Assembly (TS)
Locate TS from BP4. This is glued to the top
of the fuselage, around the vertical fin as
shown.
Step 84 - Fuselage Assembly (PG)
Before the top of the fuselage is
sheeted, now it a good time to
plan the route of the rudder and
elevator pushrods through the rear
of the fuselage.
We chose to use DuBro's flexible
pushrod system in our prototypes,
but use what works for you. If using
a flexible pushrod system, you'll
need to secure the outer tubing in a few spots to keep it from
flexing. We've included several pushrod guides (PG) in BP1. These
can be used as needed to support the guides from the servo tray
to the exits pre-cut into the fuselage sides. For the rudder, we cut
a hole into TS for the rudder pushrod to exit on the top of the fuse.
Step 85 - Fuselage Assembly (top sheeting)
Using the scrap 1/8" sheet from
the BP2-BP8 sheets, you'll now
create the sheeting for the top of
the fuselage.
The sheeting is cut so it is cross-
grained (running from side to side
for strength).
Starting at the front edge of TS,
measure, cut, and glue strips to
form the top of the fuselage. Make sure that the sheeting is not
only glued to the fuselage sides, but also to any formers they touch
as well the other top sheets as you work your way forward 4” at a
time. Stop when you cover F3, as shown on the plans.
Step 86 - Fuselage Assembly (vertical fin supports)
Using additional 1/8" scrap wood,
form two vertical fin supports for
each side of the fin. These supports
should smoothly blend into the
fuselage stop sheeting and taper
back to the trailing edge of the
fuselage as we've shown here.
Do your best to make both sides the same length and height - just
make sure they are mirror images of each other. Glue them in place
when satisfied.
Step 87 - Fuselage Assembly (top sheeting & H6)
Measure and cut two
shorter strips of 1/4" x 1/8"
balsa strip to finish the top
sheeting. This should run
between the firewall and the
front of F3.
Also locate H6 from LP2. This
is glued on the underside of H4. There are etched lines on H6
to show the halfway mark, so glue this in place so it is centered
between the fuselage sides and so that half of the piece shows, as
seen in the photo.
Step 88 - Fuselage Assembly (H1, H5)
Locate H1 from LP2 and both H5s from LP1.
Both H5's are glued into the pre-cut slots in
H1 to form the forward hatch stops. Make
sure they are 90° to the hatch surface and
both stops overhang the front end of the
hatch as shown here.
When finished, place the hatch in position on the fuselage and
use a 1/16" drill bit to drill the rear screw holes into both H2/H3's,
using the pre-cut holes in H1 as a guide.
Step 89 - Ailerons and elevator
Using the two 36" lengths of 5/16" x 1" shaped strip, measure and
cut both ailerons. Make sure they are the same length.
Now using the shorter length of 5/16" x 1" shaped strip, measure
and cut the elevator to length.
Step 90 - Fuselage Assembly (bottom sheeting)
Measure and cut two
shorter strips of 1/8" x
1/4" balsa strip to glue on
the bottom edges of the
fuselage sides between the
firewall and the front of F3.
Using some scrap 1/8"
x 4" sheeting, measure,
cut and glue together the
sheets that will make up the
bottom sheeting between
LG4/LG5 and F1.

Construction Manual www.oldschoolmodels.com Page 13
Step 91 - Sanding (airframe)
Now is the time to get quite familiar with the sanding tools of your
choice. Take the time to preform a good sanding, rounding the
wing’s leading edge and blending it into the wingtips. Go over the
entire wing, making sure the sheeting is smooth and the trailing
edges are blended into the cap strips, continuing the curvature of
the wing.
Smooth out the edges of the fuselage. Because of the framing
installed around the fuselage’s perimeter, you can round the
corners a bit, but not too much.
For the control surfaces (ailerons, elevator
and rudder), sand bevels into the leading
edges and round their trailing edges.
Now it’s time to think about radio and engine installation.
These next steps of covering, hinging, radio and power installation
are not in any particular order. Some modelers like to cover
everything first, then outfit the rest. Others like to hinge and
pre-install the components, working out the installation before
covering. Use the method that works best for you.
We prefer to pre-install many of the components to make sure
there are no surprises in the way things fit or might have to be
modified for after market items. We find it much easier to fix these
problems now, before covering, as there’s nothing worse than
ruining a good covering job by having to hack a hole or provide
clearance for something.
Step 90 - Fuselage Assembly (firewall supports)
Using some scrap wood 1/4" or 5/16"
square balsa, cut short sections that
can be used to brace the internal
joints between the firewall (F2) and the
fuselage sides. Epoxy these in place.
We chose to cut the lengths into triangle
strips to give a bit more space internally.
Step 91 - Aileron servo hatches (from LP2)
From leftover 3/16” x 3/8” x 36” basswood strip, cut eight 3/4”
pieces. Make a mounting post by laminating two pieces, gluing
the 3/8” sides together to make a 3/8 x 3/8” square post. Make 3
additional posts from the remaining pieces, sanding the ends flat.
Position your aileron servo on the inside of the aileron hatch so the
servo arm output shaft is centered in the opening.
On the inside of each aileron
hatch, glue one post on each
side of the servo as shown in the
photo.
Note that the left hatch is a mirror
image of the right hatch.
Now fit the servo hatches into
position on the bottom of the
wing. Using the pre-cut holes
as a guide, drill four 1/16”
mounting holes into the 3/16” x
3/8” basswood mounting strips
installed earlier. Harden the wood
with a bit of thin CA and you can
use the supplied 2-56 x 3/4” self tapping screws to secure the
hatches in place.
Step 92 - Aileron wire holes for servo wires
On the plans you’ll see callouts
where the two holes should be
cut in the top sheeting (WS).
These holes allow the aileron
servo wires to pass through the
wing and into the fuselage.
This next part is optional, but
could make the aileron servo
installation a bit easier, once the wings are covered. Cut two 18”
lengths of string, one for the port side, and one for starboard.
Starting with the port wing panel, push the thread through this
hole, then through the circular holes in R2, R3, and R4. The string
will now extend from the servo bay, out through the top of the
wing at the center hole cutout you just made. Tape both ends
of the string so they won’t easily pull out. Do the same for the
starboard side.
Step 93 - Hinge the control surfaces
Included with in your Quickie 500 kit are strips of hinges. These are
CA hinges, requiring a little bit of thin CA to secure them in place.
These hinges come in strips, so separate them into individual
hinges. Referring to the plans you’ll see a number of spots called
out where we recommend these CA hinges to be installed.
Starting with the horizontal stab, mark the locations of each of the
hinges. Now using a sharp hobby knife, carefully cut a hinge-sized
slot in each of the four locations, making sure the slots are cut
perfectly in the center of the stab’s trailing edge.
Now slide the elevator in place (through the slot you cut earlier)
and mark the leading edge of the elevator for hinge location.
Remove the elevator, then make the matching slots in the elevator.
Take 4 of the hinges and stick a t-pin into them
as shown here, right in the center. These pins
will help in installing the pins half-way into the
stab and elevator.
Slide each of the 4 hinges into the elevator
slots, then slide the elevator into position
on the back of the horizontal stab. Continue
working the hinges in to the horizontal stab until they are fully
seated up against the t-pins.
When happy with the fit, remove the elevator and the hinges, then
set them aside.
Now using this same technique, cut the hinge slots for the both
ailerons and the rudder. Test-fit all of them to make sure the slots
are the proper depth and the hinges can be properly inserted.
Step 94 - Main Gear (main gear, straps)
First, using a 1/8" drill bit, use it to clear out the holes for the
left and right gear. Hold
the drill at the same angle
as the slots pre-cut into
the internal LG1 and LG2
pieces.
Second, you'll need to cut
an angled relief into the
rear edge of the slot in
R2
3/32”
Balsa Rib
SB3 - 1/16” Balsa
Sheer Web
SB1
1/16” Balsa
Sheer Web
SB2
1/16” Balsa
Sheer Web
SB5
1/16” Balsa
Sheer Web
SB6
1/16” Balsa
Sheer Web
WS
1/16” Balsa
WS
1/16” Balsa
Cut a hole
in top sheeting
to allow aileron
wire to pass
through.
R1
1/8” Lite Ply Rib

Page 14 www.oldschoolmodels.com Construction Manual
LG4. This relief will give the necessary clearance for the main gear
wire to fit into the slot. (Because this cut needs to be on an angle,
it's not something we can laser-cut for you ahead of time.)
When these steps are
complete, slide both
main gear wires in place,
one forward of the other.
Now position a landing
gear strap on each side
as shown in this photo.
Using a 1/16” drill bit,
drill through the holes
in each strap, then use four of the included 2-56 x 3/4” machine
screws to attach the straps to the fuselage.
Use the included 1/8” i.d. wheel collars to hold each wheel (not
included) on the axles. For a maintenance free installation, file
a small flat on the axle where the set screw of the wheel collar
touches. Also use a touch of thread-locking compound to keep the
screw from loosening over time.
Step 95 - Tail skid
Using the included wire, refer to the fuselage
plans as we give an example of how to bend
this wire into a simple tail skid.
The original Quickie 500 models used a skid instead of a tailwheel
to save weight and lessen wind
resistance.
When bent to the shape that
works for you, mark TW in the
two spots to be drilled, then drill
both holes to allow the skid to be
mounted as shown here.
Step 96 - Covering
Now it’s time to cover your Quickie 500 airframe. Remove the main
gear, the tail skid and any of the control surfaces and hinges that
are still attached.
Double check that all surfaces are smooth and ready to cover. Sand
as necessary, then cover the rest of the airframe with the covering/
finish of your choice.
Logos, numbers, etc.
If you want to use graphics similar to the
ones we used, Old School Model Works
has teamed up with Callie Graphics as a
supplier for pre-cut vinyl. They are a very
well known provider of custom graphics
for R/C models.
We have supplied them with the artwork
needed to cut the any of our logos to the
sizes you need. You can order straight
from them, choosing the colors that work
for you.
Contact Callie Graphics at this link: https://callie-graphics.com or scan
this QR code.
Note that Callie Graphics is not affiliated with Old School Model
Works, nor does Old School Model Works generate any income
from this partnership.
The next steps shown are not in a particular order
but will all need to be done.
Attach the Control Surfaces
Now is the time to attach the control surfaces to the airframe, by
gluing the hinges in position with a several smaller drops thin C/A
on each hinge.
Landing Gear (main gear, straps, tail skid)
Re-attach the main gear wires and hold them in place with the
mounting straps and four 2-56 x 3/4” self-tapping screws. Also
hold the tail skid in place with a touch of glue, or mount your own
tailwheel assembly.
A note on the main gear. We've included 1/8" pre-bent gear that
works well. It is light-weight and will hold up for average flying. If
you fly off a rough field, or repeatedly perform hard landings, this
gear can bend. If this happens, it should be able to be bent back
by hand with a bit of pressure. Take care when landing to perform
nice, smooth landings where this won't be an issue. A hard landing
which dramatically bends the gear can reduce prop clearance
significantly.
Attach wheels. Use the included 1/8” i.d. wheel collars to hold
each wheel (not included) on the axles (one for each wheel). For a
maintenance free installation, file a small flat on the axle where the
set screw of the wheel collar touches. Also use a touch of thread-
locking compound to keep the screw from loosening over time.
The following steps will show various pieces and parts which
are not included in your Quickie 500 kit. These are some of
the parts we referenced as “needed to purchase” towards
the front of this manual.
The parts shown in the photos were those we had on hand.
Please pay no attention to the brand names of these parts as
we aren’t recommending any particular brand.
Radio and pushrod installation
Shown here a few photos
of the pushrods and radio
gear installation in one of our
Quickie 500 prototypes. These
are shown only as a guide
because each installation is
unique and the radio system
you have might require
adjustments from what you
see here.
Make sure that when installing the control horns, they are placed
in-line with the pushrods, and that the line of holes where the
clevises attach are positioned over the hinge line.
For the average pilot, we recommend that clevises are attached to
the second outermost hole on each control horn.
We used mini-sized servos on our Quickie 500 prototypes and the
servo mounting holes cut into the servo tray are sized for them.
Other sizes of servos can be used but you might need to modify

Construction Manual www.oldschoolmodels.com Page 15
powered, and if you're going to consider racing them in the AMA
Quickie 500 classes, you'll need it to be glow powered.
You'll need to mount a throttle servo and drill a hole in the firewall
to allow the throttle pushrod through.
A 6 ounce fuel tank easily fits in compartment behind the firewall,
even with a receiver battery and pushrod in the same space.
Electric power
If you’re powering your Quickie with an electric power system,
thats ok too - as glow can't be flown everywhere these days. With
an electric power system, the installation is very much the same,
substituting an ESC for the throttle servo and the battery for the
fuel tank. You'll bolt the motor in place, similar to how you'd mount
a glow engine and the batteries and ESC will be in the fuel tank
compartment.
The biggest difference will be you'll need to cut cooling holes in
the firewall (or fuse sides) as well as in the rear of the fuse to allow
sufficient airflow to cool the batteries and ESC.
And, we HIGHLY recommend using some sort of arming plug
when using electrics. This can be something as simple physical
plug that has to be inserted before operation, or some of the more
sophisticated electronic systems on the market today. We don't
recommend anything in particular, so use the system that works
best for you and your pocketbook.
This completes the assembly of the Quickie 500. Now you’ll need
to adjust the control throws and check for balance.
Recommended C.G. setting:
An important part of preparing the aircraft for flight is properly
balancing the model. This is especially important because of the
various motor/battery combinations that can be used
CAUTION! DO NOT SKIP THIS STEP!
The recommended starting Center of
Gravity (CG) location for the Quickie 500
is measured 2.5" back from the leading
edge of the wing, and you’ll see this
marked on the fuselage plan with this
symbol.
If necessary, move the battery, receiver, and/or add weight to
either the nose or the tail until the correct balance is achieved.
Stick-on weights are available as a last resort from your local hobby
store and can work for this purpose when shifting of the internal
components just isn’t enough.
Balance can vary up to 1/4" behind main spar. It is best to start with
our recommended position. If the model tends to drop its nose in
the turns, move the CG back a little - or forward a little if it tends to
balloon in the turns. When properly trimmed, the Quickie 500 will
fly through the turns flat without the need of any rudder control. As
an added feature, in the event of aileron servo failure, the Quickie
will perform almost as well with the rudder.
these holes to accept your choice of servos.
Also cut into LP2 is a separate, slightly smaller servo mount. This
is designed to be used if you're using an even smaller servo for
throttle control.
Using some scrap lite ply
from LP1 and LP2, cut
strips that can be glued in
place to double-up where
the servo mounting screws
will be used. Shown here is
an example of one of our
layouts. Your's might be
different, but the idea is the
same.
Finish the installation of your radio gear by adding the receiver,
flight pack battery and the switch. We mounted the receiver to the
fuselage using a bit of self-adhesive hook-and-loop (not included).
Power system
Installing your power system
of choice is up next. We
mentioned this earlier, but it
bears repeating. Our engine
size recommendation range
is a .25-.46 two-stroke glow
engine or an electric motor
with similar power output.
On the fuselage plans, you’ll notice a line referred to as the “thrust
line”. This is the suggested line where the crankshaft of the motor
(or engine) should be located. On the original Quickie 500 design
it was dead center on the firewall, and the same is true with our
kit. The original had zero down thrust and zero right thrust. We
fell that the majority of our kits will be used for sport flying so the
only thing we changed was adding a touch of down-thrust to aid in
every-day flying. We suggest flying the Quickie 500 in the way we
have set-up before changing the thrust angle. If you choose to add
right thrust, it's an easy thing to add a washer or two between the
firewall and the motor mount.
Glow power
If you're planning on using a glow engine, that's a good thing.
The original version was glow powered, our prototypes are glow

Page 16 www.oldschoolmodels.com Construction Manual
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Recommended Control Throws:
The amount of control throw should be adjusted as closely as
possible using mechanical means, rather than making large
changes electronically at the radio.
By moving the position of the clevis at the control horn toward
the outermost hole, you will decrease the amount of control throw
of the control surface. Moving it toward the control surface will
increase the amount of throw. Moving the pushrod wire at the
servo arm will have the opposite effect: Moving it closer to center
will decrease throw, and away from center will increase throw.
Work with a combination of the two to achieve the closest or exact
control throws listed.
Aileron 1/2” up/down
Elevator 1/2” up/down
Rudder 3/4” left/right
These control throws are only suggested but we find they work well.
We also like to program a bit of exponential into each of channels
to help smooth out the center. Roughly 20% on ailerons, 25% on
elevator, and 10% on rudder works for everyday sport flying.
We suggest that you start with these settings, then adjust them as
needed as you become familiar with the flying characteristics of
your Quickie 500.
Preflight:
Charge both the transmitter and receiver pack for your airplane.
Use the recommended charger supplied with your particular radio
system, following the instructions provided with the radio. In most
cases, the radio should be charged the night before going out
flying.
Check the radio installation and make sure all the control
surfaces are moving correctly (i.e. the correct direction and with
the recommended throws). Test run the engine and make sure it
transitions smoothly from idle to full throttle and back. Also ensure
the engine is tuned according to the manufacturer’s instructions,
and it will run consistently and constantly at full throttle when
adjusted.
Check all the control horns, servo horns and clevises to make
sure they are secure and in good condition. Replace any items
that would be considered questionable. Failure of any of these
components in flight would mean the loss of your aircraft.
Range check your radio before flying
Before each flying session, range check your radio. This is
accomplished by turning on your transmitter with the antenna
collapsed. Turn on the radio in your airplane, but do not attach the
arming switch.
With your airplane on the ground, you should be able to walk 30
paces away from your airplane and still have complete control of
all functions.
If not, don’t attempt to fly! Have your radio equipment checked
out by the manufacturer.
Warranty Information
Old School Model Works guarantees this kit to be free from defects in
both material and workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty
does not cover any parts damage by use or modification. In no case
shall Old School Model Works’ liability exceed the original cost of the
purchased kit. Further, Old School Model Works reserves the right to
change or modify this warranty without notice.
In that Old School Model Works has no control over the final assembly
or material used for the final assembly, no liability shall be assumed nor
accepted for any damage of the final user-assembled product. By the act
of using the product, the user accepts all resulting liability.
Limit of Liability
In the use of this product, our only obligation shall be to replace such
quantity of the product proven to be defective. The user shall determine
the suitability of the product for his or her intended use and shall assume
all risk and liability in connection therewith.
If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use
of this product, the buyer is advised to return this kit immediately in new
and un-opened condition.

Construction Manual www.oldschoolmodels.com Page 17
APPENDIX A

Page 18 www.oldschoolmodels.com Construction Manual
APPENDIX A