Old School Model Works ONE-O NINE Instructions for use

CONSTRUCTION MANUAL
www.oldschoolmodels.com
Using the Manual
Be sure to read each step thoroughly before you start
the step. Test-fit the parts together to make sure they
fit properly. If necessary trim to fit.
Beside each step you will notice a check box (or two).
These are so you can keep track of your progress
while building your kit. For steps that have two boxes,
as in the construction of the vertical fins, these steps
must be performed two times.
• Your Old School Model Works aircraft should not be
considered a toy, but rather a sophisticated, working
model that functions very much like a full-size airplane.
Because of its performance capabilities, this model, if not
assembled and operated correctly, could possibly cause
injury to yourself or spectators, and damage to property.
• You must assemble this model according to the
instructions. Do not alter or modify this model, as doing
so may result in an unsafe or un-flyable model. In a few
cases the instructions may differ slightly from the photos.
In those instances the written instructions should be
considered as correct.
• You must take time to build straight, true and strong.
• You must use a R/C radio system that is in first-
class condition, a correctly sized power system and
components (electronics, batteries, wheels, etc.)
throughout the building process.
• You must correctly install all R/C and other components
so that the model operates correctly on the ground
and in the air. (Installation shown in the manual is a
suggestion. You may have to adjust the mounting steps
to accommodate the size of your radio equipment.)
• You must check the operation of the model before every
flight to insure that all equipment is operating and that
the model has remained structurally sound. Be sure to
check clevises or other connectors often and replace
them if they show any signs of wear or fatigue.
• If you are not an experienced pilot or have not flown this
type of model before, we recommend that you get the
assistance of an experienced pilot in your R/C club for
your first flights. If you’re not a member of a club, your
local hobby shop has information about clubs in your
area whose membership includes experienced pilots.
• While this kit has been flight tested to exceed normal
use, if this model will be used for extremely high stress
flying, such as racing, or if a power system larger than
one in the recommended range is used, the modeler is
responsible for taking steps to reinforce the high stress
points and/or substituting hardware more suitable for the
increased stress.
Remember: Take your time and follow
the instructions to end up with a well-
built model that is straight and true.
NINE
O
NE-O
NINE
NINE
E-O
Specifications:
Wingspan: 44.5 in.
Wing Area: 330 sq in.
Weight: 2.75-3.25 lbs.

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ONE-O- NINE
WARNING
READ THROUGH THIS MANUAL
BEFORE STARTING CONSTRUCTION.
IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT WARNINGS
AND INSTRUCTIONS CONCERNING
THE CONSTRUCTION AND USE OF THIS
MODEL.
A Radio-Controlled aircraft is not a toy!
If misused, it can cause serious bodily harm
and damage to property. Fly only in open
areas, preferably at AMA (Academy of Model
Aeronautics) approved flying sites, following all
instructions included with your radio, powerplant,
electronics and batteries.
• Inspect your model before every flight to ensure it is airworthy.
• Be aware of any other radio frequency user who may present an
interference problem.
• Always be courteous and respectful of other users in your
selected flight area.
• Choose an area clear of obstacles and large enough to safely
accommodate your flying activity.
• Make sure this area is clear of friends and spectators prior to
launching your aircraft.
• Be aware of other activities in the vicinity of your flight path that
could cause potential conflict.
• Carefully plan your flight path prior to launch.
• Abide by any and all established AMA National Model Aircraft
Safety Codes.
IMPORTANT!!! Two of the most important things you can
do to preserve the radio controlled aircraft hobby are to avoid flying
near full-scale aircraft and avoid flying near or over groups of people.
INCLUDED ITEMS
Wood parts included in this kit:
• 1 - LP1 - laser cut 1/8” x 5" x 24" sheet
• 1 - LP2 - laser cut 1/8” x 5" x 24" sheet
• 1 - LP3 - laser cut 1/8” x 1.5" x 24" sheet
• 1 - LP4 - laser cut 1/8” x 3" x 12" sheet
• 1 - BP1 - laser cut 1/8” x 4" x 12" sheet
• 1 - BP2 - laser cut 1/8” x 4" x 12" sheet
• 1 - BP3 - laser cut 1/8” x 4" x 24" sheet
• 2 - BP4 - laser cut 3/32” x 4" x 24" balsa
• 2 - BP5 - laser cut 3/32” x 4" x 24" balsa
• 2 - BP6 - laser cut 3/32” x 4" x 24" balsa
• 1 - BP7 - laser cut 3/32” x 4" x 24" balsa
• 1 - BP8 - laser cut 3/32” x 4" x 24" balsa
• 1 - BP9 - laser cut 1/16” x 4" x 12" balsa
• 1 - BP10 - laser cut 1/16” x 4" x 12" balsa
• 1 - BP11 - laser cut 1/16” x 4" x 24" balsa
• 1 - BP12 - laser cut 1/16” x 4" x 12" balsa
• 7 - 1/16” x 4" x 24" balsa sheets
• 2 - 5/16” sq. x 36” balsa strips
• 4 - 1/4” sq. x 36” balsa strips
• 2 - 5/16” x 1-1/4” x 36” tapered balsa strips
• 2 - 3/16” x 3/8” x 36” basswood strips
• 1 - 3/16” sq. x 12” basswood strip
Hardware parts included in this kit:
• 10 - 2-56 x 3/4” self tapping screws
• 10 - 2-56 x 1/2” machine screws
• 2 - 1/4”-20 wing bolts
• 4 - control horns
• C/A type hinges for control surfaces
• 1 - 1/4”x 6” wooden dowel
Other items included in this kit:
• 2 rolled plans (wing and fuse)
• 1 - Construction Manual
ITEMS NEEDED
Hardware needed (not included in the kit)
For some of these items there are more than one option which will
require you to make decisions ahead of time. There isn’t a right or
a wrong choice, so choose the items that work best for you.
We strongly recommended supporting your local hobby shop.
• Powerplant: 350+ watt, 60 amp ESC, 3-4s lipo electric power
system (or .25 sized 2-stroke, if glow)
• Propeller
• Engine/Motor mount and mounting hardware
• 4 ounce fuel tank and fuel tubing (if glow)
• 3" spinner
• Receiver - (4 channel minimum)
• 4 servos (electric) or 5 servos (if glow) - we recommend mini
servos all around.
• Pushrods (two 26” for rudder/elevator, two 6" for ailerons,
one 10" for throttle if glow.)
• Clevises for the pushrods.
• Covering (1.5 - 2 rolls)
Additional Required Building Tools and Adhesives
• Drill & assorted drill bits
• Hobby knife and #10 blades
• Sandpaper: coarse (80 or 100 grit) & medium (150-200 grit)
• Pencil or pen
• Ruler
• T-Pins
• Waxed paper
• Building board
• 2-part epoxy (15 or 30 minute)
• Epoxy brushes and mixing sticks

Construction Manual www.oldschoolmodels.com Page 3
ONE-O- NINE
• Wood adhesives of your choice. We use medium CA
(cyanoacrylate) viscosities, but aliphatic resin and/or
carpenter’s glues will work just as well and give longer
working time. They are also recommended when sheeting the
wings.
Our One-O Nine kit is not for the novice builder. We are assuming
the builder is used to constructing balsa kits and has the techniques
and skills necessary to do so.
Closely inspect the supplied laser cut parts for damage. If you find
any damaged or missing parts, contact us immediately.
When removing the laser cut parts from their sheets, you’ll notice
the parts are held in place by several small “tabs”. These tabs
are uncut pieces of wood and can sometimes make it difficult to
remove a part. Rather than breaking and/or splintering the wood
by forcing out the part, we recommend removing any laser cut
parts from their sheets by using a hobby knife with a #10 blade.
A quick cut of the tab will allow the piece to be removed with no
damage. Sand any tab remainders flush with the part so there will
be no problem aligning them later.
It’s best to not remove parts from their sheets until they are needed.
Refer to Appendix A of this manual as a reference to what all the
laser cut parts look like and are called.
You’ll notice a check box next to each step. Check these off as
you go along so you don’t miss a step. Note that some steps (in
building the wing) have two boxes - this means that the step will be
done twice - once for each wing half.
There could be a step or two which leaves you a bit puzzled. If this
happens, step back and study the photo(s) for that step - both in
this manual and on-line.
All photos shown in this manual are of
different One-O Nine prototypes. Several
pieces may have changed slightly with
improvements we’ve made so parts may
look a little different in some steps.
Online Supplementary Photos
We realize that the smaller black-and-
white photos in this manual might not
show some of the steps as clearly as you might want. So we’ve
anticipated this and made these photos available on our website.
You can either scan the QR code or type this address into your
browser:
www.oldschoolmodels.com/mpics/one-o-nine/
IT IS VERY IMPORTANT THAT YOU ASSEMBLE THIS KIT
IN THE ORDER DESCRIBED. SKIPPING FORWARD IN
THE STEPS COULD LEAVE YOU WITHOUT THE PROPER
LENGTHS OF WOOD TO FINISH THE KIT.
WE’VE INCLUDED ENOUGH WOOD TO EASILY COMPLETE
THIS KIT, BUT YOU MUST TAKE CARE TO PROPERLY
MEASURE AND NOT WASTE WOOD WHEN CUTTING.
n Alignment triangles
Pre-cut into BP2 & BP3 are two triangles.
Punch out the two 90° triangles as these
can be used to vertically align any of the
parts in the construction of your One-O
Nine. BP1 & BP2 also includes foot pieces
that can be used with the triangles to hold
them hands-free vertically.
n Step 1 - Prepare your work area
You’ll need a flat building
surface that is a minimum of
36” long. Position the starboard
wing plan over the surface and
tape into position. Tear off a
length of waxed paper long
enough to cover the plan and
tape that into position, over the plan.
nnStep 2 - Wing - Lower Spar
Locate one length of 3/16" x
3/8" basswood to use as the
lower spar. Measure and cut it to
length - making sure it extends
beyond both R1 and R9 by
roughly 1/8" to 3/16".
Using a few drops of medium CA
glue, tack this spar in place as
shown, making sure it is straight
along it's entire length.
nnStep 3 - Wing - R9 rib
Starting with R9 from BP5, it’s
time to start gluing the ribs
in place. To make sure R9 is
perfectly aligned when gluing it
to the bottom spar here's a few tips.
I like to put a small drop of medium CA on the bottom of the
backside tabs of each rib to help lock it in place to the waxed
paper (or you can use pins if that’s your thing). Also make sure
to use the included triangles that you should have at hand from
the first step of this build. Using the triangles ensure that this rib,
and all subsequent ribs are perfectly aligned at 90° to the building
surface.
nnStep 4 - Wing - R3-R8 ribs
Locate ribs R3-R8 from
BP4, BP5 and BP6. Using
the same techniques that
you used on R9, glue
each of these ribs in place
as shown. Make sure
each one is in the proper
place and all are perfectly
aligned at 90° to the
building surface.
nnStep 5 - Wing - SW3
Now locate two SW3s from LP4. These are glued between R3 and
R2 (not yet installed). Note there is a small circle etched on SW3

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ONE-O- NINE
which designates the top edges.
These are glued in place as shown,
butted-up against R3 and make sure
that the tabs on both SW3's point
towards R2. The SW3s should also
be glued to the lower spar as shown
here.
nnStep 6 - Wing - R2
Locate one R2 from BP5. Glue it
in place as shown, making sure
the tabs from both SW2s are fully
inserted. Also make sure that R2
is perfectly aligned at 90° to the
building surface.
nnStep 7 - Wing - TE
Locate one TE from BP8. This is the
trailing edge of the wing and note
the angle of it's pre-cut slots. When
properly installed, these slots will
line up with each of the ribs installed
so far.
BE CAREFUL AND TAKE YOUR
TIME WHEN INSTALLING THIS
PIECE. Now is not the time to rush,
as this piece, as well as the backs of
each rib, are delicate.
A little at a time, work TE into the
back of each rib. Once installed properly, TE will be flush with the
back of each rib as shown here. Glue this in place to each rib.
nnStep 8 - Wing - SW1, SW2
Locate one SW1 from BP2, one SW2
from BP3 and one R1 from LP1. As
before, there are circles etched into
SW1 & SW2 to designate their top
edges. Dry fit this next step first so
you'll understand where I'm going here.
Slide the single tab on SW1 (fore) and SW2 (aft) into the holes on
R2. Now, to get both to the proper height, use R1 as a guide by
pushing it into place, with the twin tabs on the SWs sliding into
the holes in R1. You'll see that R1 will hold the SWs at the proper
height, and you can use this to your advantage when you glue the
SWs in place. Now remove the SWs apply glue and attach them
in place, making sure they are also glued to the lower spar but do
NOT GLUE R1 IN PLACE AT THIS TIME.
nnStep 9 - Wing - SW1B
Locate one SW1B from LP3. Note
the circle - which designates what?
That's right - the top edge.
It is glued in place as shown,
making sure it's tabs are fully
seated into the R2 and R1 tabs.
And while you're at it, it's time to
glue R1 in place. Cut into LP4 is a dihedral gauge that has it's own
"foot" inside it. Pop it out and use it to help align R1, as shown
here. When R1 is properly installed
(with the tabs in SW1 and SW1B
fully inserted and TE inserted on the
trailing edge), it should be perfectly
flat and the same 5° angle along it's
entire length.
nnStep 10 - Wing - WH2
Locate one WH2 from LP3. This is
glued in place between R1 and R2,
on the back edge. The notches in
each rib will allow the tabs in WH2
to fit into place. When in place, it
will sit proud of the rib's surface by
1/16" - and that's by design. Glue
this piece in place.
nnStep 11 - Wing - HS
Locate three HSs from BP8.
These are glued in three spots
on TE - between R2 & R3,
between R4 & R5, and between
R7 & R8.
Once they're glued in place,
you'll need to CAREFULLY sand
them so their profiles match the
profile of the ribs.
Refer to this drawing so you'll
see the portion to lightly sand
away. Do this for each HS.
nnStep 12 - Wing - R2
Carefully cut away the center of the
R2 rib, leaving a box as shown in
the photo. Carefully sand the inside
of the box so the edges are smooth
and flush. This forms three sides of
the dihedral box and needs to be
smooth and free from edges so the
dihedral brace will slide in smoothly
when joining the wing halves later.
nnStep 13 - Wing - Upper Spar
Measure and cut the upper spar
from the left-over 3/16” x 3/8”
basswood strip you used to make
the lower spar, making it an extra
1/8" or so longer.
Apply glue to the sides of the
spar, and to the top of the R1 and
R3 ribs where they will contact
the upper spar.
Starting at R3, carefully press the upper spar into position. This will
be a tight fit and might require “wiggling” the spar from side to
side to slip in-between the sheer webs. Be sure to press the spar
completely into the slot in both ribs, making it flush.
Once the spar is in place, wick thin C/A along the spar-to-sheer
web joints (front and back) along the length of the spar.
Sand away
this top
edge of HS
to match the
profile of
the ribs.
SW1
SW2

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ONE-O- NINE
nnStep 14 - Wing - Leading edge
Locate one of the 5/16" sq. x 36" balsa
strips that will be used as the leading
edge. This fits into the diamond-shaped
cutouts in the front of each rib.
Before cutting it to length, sand a bevel
into one end of the strip as shown here.
The bevel should be roughly 1" long and
take the "point" off the strip. This section
will be positioned on the tip of the wing
(R9) and this bevel helps it fit correctly and give clearance to your
building surface. You may
have to work on this with a
little trial and error to get the
proper fit.
When it's sanded, mark the
length of the leading edge
and cut it, leaving yourself
about a 1/4" extra.
Glue this piece into each of
the ribs as shown here.
nnStep 15 - Wing - Top sheeting (part 1)
Locate two of the uncut 1/16" x 4 x 24" balsa sheets. These will be
used to create the wing's top sheeting.
Now this needs to be measured carefully so you have enough
sheeting to cover the top and bottom of the wings successfully
- and here's how we did it.
First, the leading edge piece of sheeting will need to bend
along it's entire length to match the curvature of the ribs. As the
sheeting we get can vary in density, you might need to apply a bit
of Windex® glass cleaner to loosen up the grain and allow it to
bend without cracking. Soak the outer side of the wood to expand
the fibers. Now hold it to curvature needed, use a hair dryer
or covering heat-gun to help “set” the balsa’s bend as it dries.
Once dry, and with the proper bend, it's much easier to make the
following measurements.
nnStep 16 - Wing - Top sheeting (part 2)
Place this sheet you just formed up-against the leading edge of
the wing, with the upper-left-hand corner just overlapping R1 by
an 1/8" or so. Temporarily tape this in position.
Now, the second sheet will make up the back half of the sheeting,
but needs to be cut on an angle to roughly match the trailing edge
of the wing.
Position this sheet up against the first piece of sheeting, again
with it's upper-left corner just overlapping R1 by an 1/8" or so.
Temporarily tape this sheet to the first piece of sheeting. Now
you'll need to mark where to cut this second sheet, along the
trailing edge of the wing, leaving yourself a 1/4" or so longer to
play with. When done correctly, this diagonal mark should divide
the sheet into two, roughly equal pieces when cut. (The cutoff
piece of sheeting will be used when sheeting the underside of the
wing later on.)
When satisfied with your measurements, it's time to cut the piece
and in preparation for the next step.
nnStep 17 - Wing - Top sheeting (part 3)
When edge gluing the sheeting pieces together, first make sure
the edges are flat (give a quick, swipe or two with a sanding block).
Then tape the two pieces together as
shown here with some masking/painter's
tape. As you lift the sheeting from the
board you’ll see that the tape will act
as a hinge allowing you to put a small
amount of adhesive in the joint. When the
adhesive is applied, place the sheeting
back down on the waxed paper, so that it’s
flat (as shown in the photo). Use pressure
and weights if necessary to hold it flat
along the entire length of the joint. When
cured, remove the tape and you’ll now have a single, wider piece
of sheeting.
nnStep 18 - Wing - Top sheeting (part 4)
Glue the leading sheeting up
against the leading edge first
(medium CA works well for this).
Once cured, bend the sheeting
back over the wing and temporarily
tape it in place (or weigh it down).
You'll now need to make a cutout
in the sheeting for WH2. Take
your time and don't try to make
the exact cut the first time. Work
at it, little by little until you have
a great looking cutout.
nnStep 19 - Wing - Top sheeting (part 5)
Now apply a slower drying
glue (aliphatic resin and/
or carpenter’s glue) to the
upper framework of the
wing (tops of the ribs, upper
spar, trailing edge, etc.).
Note that a paint or epoxy
brush works great for this.
Then work your way
rearwards, gluing a little at a time. Press the sheeting firmly against
the ribs and weigh it down before gluing the next section of
sheeting - slowly working your way back to the trailing edge, being
careful not to put a bend (warp) in the wing.
nnStep 20 - Wing - WH1
Once the glue has dried from
the previous step, carefully
remove the wing panel from the
building board and flip it over.
Locate WH1 from LP3 and glue it
in place as shown here - making
sure the tabs are inserted into
the cutouts in both R1 and R2 ribs. Note that WH1 will stand proud
of the ribs by 1/16", as designed.
nnStep 21 - Wing - WH3
Locate two WH3 from LP1. These are
glued between WH1 and WH2, as
shown here - on either side of the pre-
cut hole in WH1.

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ONE-O- NINE
nnStep 22 - Wing - Remove tabs.
Now it’s time to remove all the underside tabs that helped hold the
ribs in place. There’s one on the back of each rib. When trimming
these tabs, make sure you cut them away just enough so that the
airfoil shape of each rib is not interrupted.
nnStep 23 - Wing - HS
Locate three HSs from BP8.
Just like you did on the top of
the wing, now you'll glue these
pieces in three spots on TE -
between R2 & R3, between R4
& R5, and between R7 & R8.
Once they're glued in place,
you'll need to CAREFULLY sand
them so their profiles match the profile of the ribs.
nnStep 24 - Wing - Wing dowel
Locate the 1/4" dowel and cut it into three 2" sections. Set two of
those aside.
Round one end either by hand, or do
it like I do - chuck it up in a drill spin
it like a little lathe. Use sandpaper to
quickly round off one end.
With the wing flipped over, mark where
the leading edge will need to be cut to
allow the wing dowel to be installed.
Now cut the hole into the leading
edge, making cure it is centered on
the leading edge strip and perfectly
inline with the pre-cut hole in SW1B.
Cut the hole a bit undersized, then
gradually enlarge it until you get
a nice, snug fit. Test fit the dowel,
slipping the flat end first through the
leading edge and into SW1B - flush
with the back side of SW1B. Once in
place, glue it to the backside of the leading edge and to SW1B.
nnStep 25 - Wing - Hatch rails
Locate the left-over 3/16" x 3/8" basswood strip used in the spars.
Cut two 2-5/16" lengths.
Also cut one similarly sized piece of 1/16" from the scrap area of
BP9, BP10, or BP11.
One basswood rail is glued to the
outside of R3, and the inside of
R4, using the following method.
Place a few drops of glue to the
3/16" (thinner) side of one of the
basswood rails. Place the 1/16"
piece you cut on top of the rail,
then press the rail in position - up
against the lower spar, and making
sure that the 1/16" piece is flush with
the edge of rib. Be sure NOT to glue
the 1/16" piece in place as it's just
a spacer.
When finished, you'll have two rails
in place, set just below the surface
of the ribs - 1/16" below.
nnStep 26 - Wing - Hatch frame
Locate left-over 5/16" sq. balsa
strip, cut when creating the leading
edge. Measure and cut a length to
go between R3 and R4 as shown
here. Make sure it is a snug fit and
glue it in place, up against the
hatch rails, you just installed, but
flush with the bottom surface of the ribs.
nnStep 27 - Wing - Underside sheeting (part 1)
Using the same techniques use when creating and installing the
upper sheeting, it's now time to install the underside sheeting.
Locate one of the uncut sheets of 1/16" balsa, and the leftover
1/16" piece you cut when making the top sheeting.
Glue these together in the same way as before, then glue them to
the leading edge.
nnStep 28 - Wing - Underside sheeting (part 2)
Once cured, bend the sheeting
back over the wing and
temporarily tape it in place (or
weigh it down). You'll now need
to make a cutout in the sheeting
for WH1. Take your time and
don't try to make the exact cut
the first time. Work at it, little
by little until you have a great
looking cutout.
nnStep 29 - Wing - Underside sheeting (part 3)
Again, using the same
techniques you used on the
top side, apply some slower
curing glue to the frame - the
ribs surfaces, lower spar and
the balsa hatch-frame (not
the rails). Then slowly attach
the sheeting. Weigh it down
and allow it to cure fully.
nnStep 30 - Wing - Sanding
Take a few moments to sand the wing panel smooth. Make sure
to also sand the trailing edge, as well as the root (R1) and tip (R9)
edges flat.
nnStep 31 - Wing - T1
Locate T1 from LP2.
Glue this in place by
fully inserting the tabs
in R9, and making sure
it is perpendicular to
the rib.

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ONE-O- NINE
nnStep 32 - Wing - T2
Locate five T2s from BP3. Glue
three of these to the top of T1,
and two of them to the bottom
of T1, as shown here.
nnStep 33 - Wing - Shaped trailing edge
Locate one of the 5/16” x 1-1/4” x 36” tapered balsa strips.
This is cut to make the final trailing edge, as well as the aileron.
These cuts are noted on the plans and need to be angled, so
double-check everything before cutting.
Also, make sure that you are orienting the tapered balsa the correct
way. Check the diagram below.
When you have the cuts
made, glue the two shorter
pieces in place as shown in
the photo. Set the aileron
aside.
nnStep 34 - Wing - R1
Now it's time to cut a square
hole out of the root rib (R1).
This will be between the pre-
cut slots for the sheer webs
and between the upper and
lower spars, as shown here.
Carefully using a rotary tool to do most of the work is best, then
clean up everything with a hobby knife. Do not cut into the sheer
webs as you will weaken them.
nnStep 35 - Wing - Sanding
Grab your sanding block and sand R1 and the trailing edge piece
you installed so it's all flat and smooth.
Set the starboard wing half aside and begin work on the port
wing half. Tape the port wing plan and fresh wax paper on your
board. Then follow steps 2 through 35 to complete the port wing
half. Once finished, then move on to step 36.
Note that when building the port half that many of the parts
will need to be glued to the opposite side (the sheer webs, for
instance). Always refer to the plans to make sure you’re gluing
the parts together in the correct way.
nStep 36 - Wing - Dihedral brace
Locate three DHs from LP2.
These are glued together to
make a single, thicker dihedral
brace. There is a possibility
that you'll have to sand the
surfaces to "thin" it slightly
as each piece of lite-ply is not
necessarily uniform thickness (unfortunately).
So take some time test fitting and sanding as necessary to get a
good fit in both wing halves. Don’t take off too much, too fast.
Carefully sand as necessary to make sure everything fits properly
and the root ribs in each wing half are touching along their entire
length when assembled into a single wing. Take your time and get
a good fit that doesn’t require a lot of force.
Remember you may have to file inside the boxes built into each
wing half. Make sure they're smooth and the brace doesn't catch
on any extra glue or remnants of R2.
n Step 37 - Wing - Join wing halves
Test fit the wing halves together one last time and sand as necessary
for a good fit.
After test fitting, join the wing halves as follows (with 30 minute
epoxy). Remove the dihedral brace and apply a good coating of
epoxy into the pockets in each wing half and also coat the faces of
each root rib.
Slide all the dihedral brace into one of the wing halves, then slide
remaining wing half in place. Squeeze the two halves together,
wipe off any excess epoxy with some denatured alcohol and use
long strips of masking tape to hold wing halves firmly together.
After the epoxy has fully cured (give it several hours), remove the
tape.
Remember, any twist in the alignment of the panels cannot be
fixed after the epoxy cures and will lead to a poor flying model.
n Step 38 - Wing - Aileron hatch cutout
In the back of this manual is Appendix
B which is a full-size template that
you should use to locate and cut out
the aileron pockets.
Remove that page, cutout the
template and place it as shown here,
on the bottom of the starboard wing
panel.
The rectangular cutout is pretty close to
the size, but I advise lightly cutting inside it
by 1/8" or so - using just enough pressure
to cut through the outer sheeting. You
should now have a hole that reveals the
hatch rails, similar to what's shown here
(except hopefully a bit neater than my
example).
An easy way to find the sides of the box
is to take a piece of scrap 3/16" x 3/8"
and place it directly over one of the servo
rails, mark, then cut this outer edge. Do
the same to find the outer edge of the
other rail.
Then carefully cut away the fore and aft edges of the box so the
sheeting is flush with the lower spar and the rear frame of the aileron
box.
Test fit one of the servo hatches (SH, from LP4). Lightly sand the
opening to allow the hatch to comfortably fit in the hatch.
When finished, flip the template over and do the same thing to
cutout the aileron pocket on the port side of the wing.
This completes assembly of the One-O Nine's wing.
Now it’s time to start construction of the tail surfaces.
flat edge on bottom, tapered side on the top.

Page 8 www.oldschoolmodels.com Construction Manual
ONE-O- NINE
n Step 39 - Stab/Elevator
Tape the horizontal stab / elevator
plan and a fresh piece of waxed
paper on your building board.
n Step 40 - Stab/Elevator - E1
Locate E1 from BP3. Pin it in place,
making sure it is straight along it's
entire length.
n Step 41 - Stab/Elevator - E2
Locate E2 from BP1. Glue it in
place, making sure it's tabs are
fully inserted into E1 and it is flat
against the building board.
n Step 42 - Stab/Elevator - E3
Locate both E3s from BP1. These are
glued in place to each side of E3 to form
the tips. Make sure their tabs are fully
inserted into E1 and they are both flat
against the building board.
n Step 43 - Stab/Elevator - E4, E5 & E6
Locate both E4s, both E5s and
both E6s from BP1 and BP3. These
are glued in place, again making
sure the tabs are inserted fully and
everything is flat and flush.
n Step 44 - Stab/Elevator - E7
Locate both E7s from BP1 and BP3.
These are the leading edges of the
elevator and should be pinned in
place.
n Step 45 - Stab/Elevator - E8
Locate both E8s from BP1 and BP3.
Glue these in position, one on each E7,
again flat and flush.
n Step 46 - Stab/Elevator - E9
Locate both E9s from BP1 and BP3. These
are glued in place between E7 and E8 on
each half of the elevator - again flat and
flush.
n Step 47 - Stab/Elevator - ES1, ES3
Locate ES1 from BP10 and
two ES3s from BP10 and
BP11. Remove any pins from
the framework, lightly sand
and then glue ES1 on top of
the stab assembly, and one
ES3 on top of each elevator half.
When the glue has cured, remove these assemblies and flip them
over and lightly sand the framework to prep for the lower sheeting.
n Step 48 - Stab/Elevator - ES2, ES3
Locate ES2 from BP11
and two ES3s from
BP10 and BP11.
Before gluing ES2 to
the stab assembly,
note that it has two X's
engraved. These will be
important later on, so
make sure you glue this piece so the X's are showing.
Also glue one ES3 on top of each elevator half.
n Step 49 - Stab/Elevator - Elevator joiner
Locate the remaining 2" length
of 1/4" dowel. This is used as the
joiner between the two elevator
halves.
Place both elevator halves back
over the plans. Glue the joiner
between these two halves to
form the elevator assembly. You may have to cut and sand the
cutouts slightly to allow the dowel to fit properly. The dowel should
also be flush with the leading edge of the elevator when properly
fitted.
n Step 50 - Fin/Rudder
Tape the vertical fin / rudder plan and
a fresh piece of waxed paper on your
building board.
n Step 51 - Fin/Rudder - VF6
Locate VF6 from BP3. Pin it in place,
making sure it is straight along it's entire
length.
n Step 52 - Fin/Rudder - VF7
Locate VF7 from BP3. Glue it in place
making sure it's tab is fully inserted into VF6
and it is flat against the building board.
n Step 53 - Fin/Rudder - VF8
Locate VF8 from BP2. Glue it in place to
VF6 and VF7, again flat and flush.
n Step 54 - Fin/Rudder - VF9, VF10
Locate VF9, VF10 from BP3. Glue them
in place between VF6 and VF8, again flat
and flush.
X's should show.

Construction Manual www.oldschoolmodels.com Page 9
ONE-O- NINE
n Step 55 - Fin/Rudder - VF3
Locate VF3 from BP3. Pin it in place.
n Step 56 - Fin/Rudder - VF1
Locate VF1 from BP3. Glue it to VF3, with
it's tab fully inserted. Also flat and flush
with the board.
n Step 57 - Fin/Rudder - VF2
Locate VF2 from BP3. Glue it to VF1, with
it's tab fully inserted. Also flat and flush
with the board.
n Step 58 - Fin/Rudder - VF4
Locate VF4 from BP1. Glue it to VF1 and VF3, with
it's tab fully inserted. Also flat and flush with the
board.
n Step 59 - Fin/Rudder - VF5
Locate VF5 from BP3. Glue it between
VF3 and VF4, with it flat and flush with the
board.
n Step 60 - Fin/Rudder - VFS1, VFS2 (part 1)
Locate both VFS1 from BP12 and
both VFS2 from BP10 and BP11.
One VFS1 is glued to a VFS2
forming the vertical fin's outer
skin. Make sure that both pieces
are flush and flat along the entire
length of the joint. Make two
separate skins as shown here.
n Step 61 - Fin/Rudder - VFS1, VFS2 (part 2)
Locate both vertical fin skins from
the previous step, as well as both
VFS3s from BP9. Lightly sand the
framework, then glue one skin
and one VFS3 in place as shown.
Once cured, remove these two
assemblies, flip them over, lightly
sand again and then glue the
remaining skin and VFS3 to the
opposite sides.
This completes assembly of the One-O Nine's tail surfaces.
Now it’s time to start construction of the fuselage.
You don't necessarily need to tape down the fuselage plan
to your board, but you will need to refer to it throughout the
fuselage build. However, cut off a fuselage length of waxed paper
and tape that down to your board to build the fuselage on.
n Step 62 - Fuselage - FS1, FS2, FS3 & FS4
Locate both FS1 from BP5,
both FS2 from BP4, and
both FS3 and FS4 from
BP6. These are used to
form the fuselage sides.
Refer to the diagram on
the fuselage plan sheet on
how these notch together.
You'll use the same techniques that you used when edge gluing
sheeting together for the wing and tail surfaces. The only difference
being that these sheets are thicker 3/32"balsa sheets.
Start by gluing FS1 and FS2 together, making sure that the joint
is flat and flush along it's entire length. Then glue FS3 and FS4
together using the same technique. Finally, glue both of these sub-
assemblies together to form the completed sheet.
Make 2 completed sheets, lightly sanding both sides to make sure
they're smooth and flat.
n Step 63 - Fuselage - WH4
Locate four WH4s from LP1. These are
glued, one on top each other, to make
a very thick WH4. Make sure they are
perfectly aligned as the glue cures.
n Step 64 - Fuselage - F2A, F2B
Locate F2A and F2B from LP2. These are
glued together as shown, making sure
that they are perfectly aligned.
n Step 65 - Fuselage - FG
Locate both FGs from LP1. These are
glued together as shown, making sure
that they are perfectly aligned.
n Step 66 - Fuselage - FE (electric power only)
If you're using an electric powerplant for
your One-O Nine, locate both FEs from
LP2. These are glued together as shown,
making sure that they are perfectly
aligned.
n Step 67 - Fuselage - FE (electric power only)
Also, if you're using electric
to power your One-O Nine,
take the time to workout
how your install your motor
to the FE firewall using it's
hardware.
Note that there is an arrow
etched into FE, designating
the top and starboard side.
So make sure that any t-nuts
are installed from the other side, as shown here. Do this now
because it will be VERY difficult to do after FE is installed.

Page 10 www.oldschoolmodels.com Construction Manual
ONE-O- NINE
n Step 68 - Fuselage - FSP, F2A/F2B
Locate FSP from LP1. This is
the port side of the inner lite-
ply structure. Place this on your
board so the thin end (with the
wing saddle cutout) is on the left,
and the bigger end on the right.
Glue the F2A/F2B assembly in
place as shown here, noting it's
orientation. Make sure it is 90° to FSP and it's tab is completely
inserted into FSP's pre-cut slot.
n Step 69 - Fuselage - BB
Locate BB from LP2. Test fit it in
position as shown, making sure
you know how all the tabs/slots
fit together. Note that the tabs
will extend through FSP and
slightly protrude from the other
side of the sheet - by design.
When satisfied on how this goes
together, remove the piece, apply glue and attach it to FSP and
FS2A/B.
n Step 70 - Fuselage - F3
Locate F3 from LP2. Test fit it in
position as shown, making sure
you know how all the tabs/slots
fit together. Note that F3 has an
etched circle which designates
the top and starboard side.
Also note that F3's tabs will also extend through FSP and slightly
protrude from the other side of the part.
When satisfied on how this goes together, remove F3, apply glue
and attach it to FSP and BB.
n Step 71 - Fuselage - BT
Locate BT from LP2. Test fit it in
position as shown, making sure
you know how all the tabs/slots
fit together. Note that BT's tabs
will also extend through FSP and
slightly protrude from the other
side of the part.
When satisfied on how this goes together, remove the piece, apply
glue and attach it to FSP and F3.
n Step 72 - Fuselage - BT
Now it's time to attach the
lite-ply structure to the port
side sheeting. Grab one of the
fuselage side sheets you made
earlier and place it so the tail is
on the left, nose is on the right.
Now carefully test fit the lite-ply structure to the sheet as shown,
making sure you know how all the tabs/slots fit together. This is
where the extra long tabs on the lite-ply parts will aid in getting the
proper alignment to the sheeting.
When satisfied that you know how this goes together, remove the
lite-ply structure, apply glue, and then attach it to the sheeting.
Pay close attention that the structure is completely flat against the
sheeting along it's entire length, and that it is aligned properly, even
in the area around the wing saddle. Apply weights as necessary to
hold this in place as the glue cures.
n Step 73 - Fuselage - FG
Locate the FG assembly you made
a few steps back. Test fit into
position as shown here, noting the
engraved arrow pointing towards
the top of the fuselage. Lightly
sand as necessary for a good, snug
fit.
When satisfied with the fit, remove FG, mix up some 30 minute
epoxy and glue this in position. Make sure it is completely inserted
into the lite-ply structure as the glue cures.
If you're powering your One-O Nine via a glow engine, this piece
will be the firewall that your mount will attach to.
n Step 74 - Fuselage - FSS
Locate the FSS from LP1.
Test fit it in position as
shown, making sure you
know how all the tabs/slots
fit together.
When satisfied on how this
goes together, remove the
piece, apply glue and attach
it to BB, F3, F2A/B, and FG.
n Step 75 - Fuselage - WH4
Locate the WH4 assembly from a few
steps back. This is now glued in place
between FSP and FSS as shown here.
Use epoxy for this step as well. Make
sure to weigh down FSS while glue
cures.
n Step 76 - Fuselage - F1
Locate the F1 from BP7. It is glued
in place on top of BT, with F1's tabs
fitting into the slots on the fuse side
and on BT. This is not a highly stressed
piece, so it's made of balsa to save
weight - but I will tell you I broke
this piece, several times after I installed it, and on each of the
prototypes. Hopefully you'll keep a lookout for it and not have the
same luck.
n Step 77 - Fuselage - FS7
Locate two FS7s from BP2. These are
glued together, stacked on top of each
other, then glued in place as shown here,
just forward of F2A/B.
n Step 78 - Fuselage - FS6
Locate two FS6s from BP2. These
are glued together, stacked on top
of each other, then glued in place
as shown here, underneath BB.

Construction Manual www.oldschoolmodels.com Page 11
ONE-O- NINE
n Step 86 - Fuselage - F4 - F9
Locate F4, F5, F6, F7, F8 and F9 from BP7 and BP8.
These are all glued together to form the inner "spine" of the
fuselage.
Note that F4-F8 have circles etched in them to designate the top
of the formers (top of the fuselage).
It's recommend to install these one at a time, starting with F4.
Holding F9 at an
angle, insert it into
the upper cutout
in F4. Now move
F9 so that F4 is
at the first set of
cutouts in F9. By
slowly rotating F9
so it's horizontal
in F4's cutout, you
can push it down to the cross-brace of F4. F4 should be glued in
place, making sure it's perfectly perpendicular F9 as shown.
Now, work your way rearwards, installing F5, F6, and F7 in the same
way. Again, make sure you have them oriented the correct way.
Once you get to F8, it's simply pressed on to the tab on the back
of F9, again making sure it's the right-way-up and perpendicular
to F9.
n Step 87 - Fuselage - Installing the spine (fore)
To install the spine, test
fit the forward part of the
spine (F4 and F5) into the
fuselage side as shown
here. There's a tab on
the front of F9 that needs
to fit into F3's cutout.
Also the 1/4" fuselage's
framework needs to fit
into the notches cut into
F4 and F5.
When you're satisfied on how this goes together, remove the spine,
apply glue to the outer edges of F4 and F5, as well as the portion
of F9 that runs from F5 to F3. Glue this in position making sure it's
firmly inserted in all the above-mentioned places.
n Step 88 - Fuselage - Installing the spine (aft)
Once the glue has cured
from the previous step, it's
now time to glue the aft
portion of the fuselage to
the rest of the spine.
Do this little by little, working
your way rearwards to give
you the best chance of not
introducing a twist into the
fuselage.
n Step 89 - Fuselage - Starboard sheeting
Locate the other fuselage side sheet you made way back when. It's
now time to install it on the starboard side.
Focus on the front portion of the install first - the flattest portion of
the fuselage, from F5 forward. Test fit the sheeting in place, making
sure that all the tabs will fit into the pre-cut holes in the sheeting.
n Step 79 - Fuselage
Using one of the 1/4" sq. x 36"
balsa sticks, measure and cut this
small piece to go between FS6 and
FS7. Note the mitered angles for a
proper fit. Glue this in place.
n Step 80 - Fuselage - FS5
Locate two FS5s from BP2. These
are glued together, stacked on top
of each other, then glued in place
as shown here, on top of BT.
n Step 81 - Fuselage - Lower frame
Using the same 1/4" sq. balsa stick
you just trimmed a piece from,
measure, cut and glue in the strip
which goes along the bottom of
the fuselage sheeting from the rear
edge of FSP to the aft end of the
fuselage. Cut this piece a 1/4" or
so long.
As this piece has a gradual bend in it, glue it a little at a time as
work your way from one end to the other.
n Step 82 - Fuselage - Upper, forward frame
Using the same left-over 1/4"
sq. balsa stick, measure, cut
and glue in the strip that runs
from FG back to the angle that
forms the start of the sheeting's
"canopy" outline.
n Step 83 - Fuselage - Upper, windscreen frame
Using the same left-over 1/4" sq.
balsa stick, measure, cut and glue in
the strip that forms the front angle
of the "canopy's" windscreen. Note
that this will require a couple miter
cuts to fit correctly.
n Step 84 - Fuselage - Upper frame
Grab another one of the 1/4" sq.
x 36" balsa sticks, measure, cut
and glue the strip which goes
along the top of the fuselage
sheeting, from the rear edge of
the windscreen frame you just
installed, to the aft end of the
fuselage. Cut this piece a 1/4"
or so long.
As this piece also has a gradual bend in it, glue it a little at a time
as work your way from one end to the other.
n Step 85 - Fuselage - Rear frame
Using the same left-over 1/4" sq. balsa
stick, measure, cut and glue this strip
which spans the distance between the
upper and lower framing at the aft of the
fuse.

Page 12 www.oldschoolmodels.com Construction Manual
ONE-O- NINE
When you're satisfied
with the fit, remove the
sheeting and apply glue
to the outer edges of the
formers and plywood
structure.
Take your time and again
make sure everything is
flat so no twists are being
introduced into the fuselage.
n Step 90 - Fuselage - Starboard sheeting
Once the glue has cured, start to work your way
rearwards, gluing each of the formers to the side.
Again, take your time, working one former at a time
and make sure you're not introducing a twist.
n Step 91 - Fuselage - Forward lower framing
Locate two FS6s and two
FS7s from BP2. Just as you
did for the port side, stack
the like pieces together
and glue them in position
to the inside of the
starboard sheeting. When
these are in position, cut a 1/4" sq. balsa strip to go between FS5
and FS7. (You may have scrap left over for this, but if not, cut it from
the end of another uncut 1/4"s x 36 balsa stick.)
n Step 92 - Fuselage - FS5
Locate two FS5s from BP2.
Just as you did for the port
side, glue them together
and install them, mirroring
on the starboard side what
you did on the port side of
the fuselage.
n Step 93 - Fuselage - Upper, forward frame
Using the leftover 1/4"
sq. balsa strip, cut and
install the framework that
runs from FG back to
the windscreen, then the
smaller mitered piece for
the windscreen. Glue these in position.
n Step 94 - Fuselage - Rear frames
Using 1/4" sq. balsa strips, cut and install the top and
bottom framework for the starboard side. The top
runs from the windscreen to the aft of the fuselage.
The bottom piece runs from the back of the lite-ply
structure to the aft of the fuse.
Also cut and install the small piece that runs between
the top and bottom frames, at the rear of the
sheeting.
n Step 95 - Fuselage - Sanding
Lightly sand the rear of the fuselage to remove any extra length of
the framework, truing it up.
n Step 96 - Fuselage - Fin cutout
While we're at the rear of the fuse, the inner
1/4" framework should touch each other.
However, a gap needs to be made to allow the
vertical fin to be slotted in place, a few steps
down the road. Mark and cut a gap that's 1/8"
wide, removing equal amounts from either side as shown here.
n Step 97 - Fuselage - Battery cutout
On the starboard side of the fuselage,
you'll need to cut away the sheeting to
expose the battery pocket. Cut out the
area between BB and BT (top to bottom)
and FG and F3 (fore to aft).
Dont' try to do this all at once. Make
a smaller hole as shown here, then
carefully work your way to edges of the
inner lite-ply structure. Remember, it's a
heck of a lot harder to put material back
on than take it off.
n Step 97 - Fuselage - Top cross-frame
Using left-over 1/4" sq. balsa strip,
cut and install a cross-frame that runs
between the FS5 pieces on the top side
of BT. When installed, lightly sand this
cross-frame so it matches the fuselage
curvature.
n Step 98 - Fuselage - Lower cross-frame
Using left-over 1/4" sq. balsa strip,
cut and install a cross-frame that runs
between the FS6 pieces on the bottom
side of BB. There are two pieces which
are stacked. When installed, lightly
sand this cross-frame so it matches the
curvature of the nose.
n Step 99 - Fuselage - FS8, FS9
Locate both FS8s and FS9s from
BP9. One FS8 and FS9 are glued
together to form a longer piece,
as shown here. The tab is offset
so there's only one way it only fits
together correctly. Make 2 pieces.
n Step 100 - Fuselage - FS8, FS9 install
The FS8/9 pieces you just
made are installed next.
These are used to reinforce
the canopy area between F4
and F5. Although a little hard
to see here, refer to plans on
how these are installed on

Construction Manual www.oldschoolmodels.com Page 13
ONE-O- NINE
So, do this for
the elevator and
rudder servos,
glue one of the
SR rails to each
side of F4, so
they rest up
against the flat
on the FSP and
FSS sides (see
the plans for a
detailed look at
what I'm on about here. From there you can use your servos to
determine where the other two SRs should be mounted (making
sure you leave a little "wiggle-room" so the servos can be removed.
Once the SRs are glue in place, go ahead and drill the mounting
holes and temporarily screw them in place.
If you're going glow, the throttle servo can be mounted forward
of these servos by making up another pair of SRs. It might be best
to temporarily mount your engine to get an idea on how best to
snake the throttle pushrod to the engine. And you'll have to drill a
hole or two to make that work properly for your setup.
n Step 107 - Fuselage - Pushrod installation.
Since the servos
are in, it's also
time to mount the
pushrods, as again,
once the sheeting
is installed, you
can't get to this area.
We choose to use DuBro's 2-56 Laser-Rod system in our prototypes
as the pushrods flexibility works out well in the One-O Nine.
Here are a couple of suggested exits for the pushrods. On the left
is shown the rudder exit, and the elevator on the right picture.
Note that the elevator is raised up because of the elevated stab
and elevator control horn. (You're mileage may vary, but this should
help get you close.)
Also when installing the outer sheath of these sorts of pushrods, you'll
need to tack them to the fuselage structure in several places so they won't
move or bend while in action.
n Step 108 - Fuselage - Sanding
Lightly sand the top and bottom of the fuselage to remove any
excess glue and make sure the surfaces are level, as you'll be
installing cross-sheeting in the next few steps.
n Step 109 - Fuselage - Top cross-sheeting
Locate one of the uncut 1/16" x 4" x 24" balsa sheets. You'll use
the side sheeting, up against the 1/4" sq. balsa framework. Do this
for both side of the fuse.
n Step 101 - Fuselage - FS10
Locate both F10's from BP9 and
glue them on each side of the
fuselage, just behind F5, up against
the 1/4" sq. framework. Again,
refer to plans for exact placement.
n Step 102 - Fuselage - FS11
Locate both F11's from BP9 as they
are used to strengthen the area
right behind the wing saddle. Glue
them on each side of the fuselage,
just behind F5, up against the
lower 1/4" sq. framework. Again,
refer to plans for exact placement.
n Step 103 - Fuselage - Vertical fin spacers
Locate some scrap 1/16" sheeting, perhaps the long scrap strips
from BP10 and BP11. Cut two pieces roughly 3" long to use a
spacers in the next step.
n Step 104 - Fuselage - Vertical fin
Locate the vertical fin that you
assembled earlier. Test fit it in place
first by sliding it into the rear of the
fuselage, through the cutout that
made in the rear of the fuselage.
The front of the fin should fit into the
cutout in the top of F8 and the rear
of the fin should be aligned with the
rear of the fuselage sheeting.
Use the two spacers that you cut in the last step to slide
under each side of the vertical fin's outer sheeting to get
the proper height. Pin (or tape) those spacers in position.
With everything in position, double check that the vertical
fin is perfectly straight by "eyeing" down the fuselage
from the nose. If it's off a little, sand the slot you cut into
the fuselage as necessary to make fine adjustments.
When satisfied, remove the fin, apply glue, then attach it
to the fuselage (but not the spacers). Remove the spacers once the
glue has cured and you should have gaps like these.
n Step 105 - Fuselage - SR
Locate eight of the SRs from LP1 and LP2. These
are glued together in pairs to form elevator and
rudder servo mounting rails. You should end up
with 4 perfectly aligned rails.
n Step 106 - Fuselage - Servo installation.
This might seem like a strange time to think about where your
elevator, rudder, and throttle (if glow) servos will be mounted, but
actually it's the perfect time. After the top and bottom sheeting is
applied, access to the inside of the fuselage is quite a bit trickier.
You'll see on the plans that I've called out a few locations that are
suggested servo mounting spots. The reason I chose this is that
the servos are easily accessible through the wing-saddle, no extra
hatches are needed, and they're easy to mount on to the lite-ply
structure already in the fuselage.
1/16" spacer

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ONE-O- NINE
epoxied in place as it's the firewall for your electric motor. You
should have already installed the t-nuts that came with your mount,
and if you remember, this piece has an engraved arrow designating
the top of the firewall.
So mix up a little 30 minute epoxy and glue FE in place as shown
here. Also shown is a
mounted motor, with the
wires running into the
battery pocket, through
the hole in FG. No need
to mount the motor now,
but use this an example
when mounting your
motor later on.
n Step 114 - Fuselage - Sanding
Before attaching the horizontal tail, take the time to sand the
fuselage. The sides should obviously be smooth, but the edges
of the fuse can also be rounded off nicely, due to the 1/4" inner
frame-work. Don't go nuts, as there's a limited amount of rounding
you can do, but you can sand in a nice looking radius on all four
edges of the fuse.
n Step 115 - Fuselage - Attach the stab
Now it's time to attach the
horizontal stab. Remember
way back when you made
the stab, there are Xs on the
sheeting that designates the
bottom side, so make sure
you slide it in the right way.
Lightly sand the opening
of the stab and/or rudder
to get a snug, slop-free
fit. Also, make sure that
the stab is perpendicular
to the vertical fin - maybe
use one of those triangle things talked about back the first step of
this manual. When you're satisfied with the fit, remove the stab,
apply glue and push it back in to place.
n Step 116 - Fuselage - Attach the wing
To attach the wing you'll obviously need the wing that you built
earlier. If you haven't already, you'll need to do a quick sanding of
the wing's leading edge, from the center of the wing out about 2
inches on either side. You'll need to round off the leading edge
to the airfoil shape so it will fit correctly into the wing saddle. Also
flatten the area between the two dowels, where the wing butts-up
against F2A/B.
When finished, insert the wing into the fuselage, making sure the
front dowels slide smoothly into the holes in F2A/B. If they don't
fit as nicely as you'd like, don't mess with the dowels. Instead, file
a bit on the holes until you get
the dowels to slide in as they
should.
To align the wing properly on
the fuselage, place the wing in
position, then allow the wing to
rest in the wing saddle. The wing is
perfectly aligned when the distance
from the port wing tip to the port stab
this same sheet to create all
of the cross-grained sheeting
for the fuselage.
This is done a piece at a time,
starting at the base of the
"canopy's" windscreen. Hold
the 1/16” sheeting against
the fuselage, making sure
the grain is cross-ways. Mark,
cut and glue a portion of the sheeting in position. Repeating this
technique, work your way forward to the nose.
Also cut the piece needed to form the angled "windscreen". It will
need a slightly mitered edge to match the sheeting you already
installed. Sand that edge to achieve the correct angle.
n Step 110 - Fuselage - Bottom cross-grained sheeting
Flip the fuselage over and
create the pieces needed
to cover the area from the
front of the wing saddle
forward to the nose -
again from 1/16" balsa
sheeting.
It will take several pieces
to properly form the
"hump" and make sure
you properly bevel them
for the correct fit.
n Step 111 - Fuselage - Rear cross-grained sheeting
Finish sheeting the fuselage with more of the 1/16" sheeting. The
top can be sheeted from the windscreen, all the way aft to the
vertical fin. Then, when you reach the vertical fin, the pieces that
surround it can be length-grain, rather than cross grain - and those
two pieces should slide in, under the fin's outer sheeting, just like
the temporary spacers did earlier.
Flip the fuselage over the complete the fuselage sheeting by
starting at the rear of the wing saddle and working your way back
to the rear of the fuselage.
n Step 112 - Fuselage - FES (electric power only)
If you're powering your One-O Nine with an electric powerplant,
locate both FESs from LP2. Note
that they're not perfect rectangles
- they're slightly quadrilateral
so they'll only properly fit one
way, allowing them to match the
downthrust of the FG (already
installed). You'll glue one of
these to the inside surface of side
sheeting up-against FG - on both
the port and starboard sides.
Also locate the 3/16" x 12" sq. basswood strip. Cut two 2-1/4"
lengths, then glue them to the edge of the FES pieces you just
installed. These two pieces will give more surface area for the
electric firewall to grab on to, in the next step.
n Step 113 - Fuselage - FE (electric power only)
If you're powering your One-O Nine with an electric powerplant,
locate the FE made earlier in the build. This is now going to be
A A

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ONE-O- NINE
tip is the same the distance when measured from the starboard
wing tip to the starboard stab tip.
nStep 117 - Fuselage - Drill wing bolt holes
With the wing aligned, drill two 3/16” holes for the wing bolts,
using the pre-cut holes in WH1 as a guide. Use caution to make
sure the wing does not move until both holes are drilled.
When drilling, take your time and make sure the drill is held so the
bit is in the center of the wing holes. This will guarantee that the
holes drilled in WH4 will be perpendicular with the wing’s sheeting.
This will make it so the wing bolt goes in at an angle, but the screw’s
head will be flat on the wing surface. Remove the drill, remove the
wing and clean up around the new holes you drilled.
Run a 1/4x20 tap through the WH4 pieces so that the wing
bolts will thread into this block. A few drops of thin CA will help
strengthen and secure the threads you’ve cut. We've found this
to be a very secure way of holding the wing in place for all of our
prototypes, but... if you don't want to go this way, you can also
use 1/4x20 t-nuts (not included). If you go that route, you may also
need slightly longer bolts, but that's something you'll have to find
out for yourself.
nStep 118 - Stab - Supports
Using the leftover 3/16" sq. basswood strips, measure and cut two
pieces that will be used at the supports. The full-scale 109 had
these, and it's a good idea to use them here as well, to support
that raised stab.
Now, after all this time, here's why there are Xs etched in the stab's
bottom sheeting. These mark the two solid mounting points where
the stab supports should be attached.
Both of these supports will be roughly 2-7/8" long, with bevels cut
on each end so they'll fit properly against the bottom of the stab
and the side of the fuselage. You'll need to adjust these to suit.
Don't glue these on now - wait until after the fuselage is covered.
n Step 119 - Servo wire exits
If the wing is not mounted to the fuselage, quickly slip it in place
and grab a couple strips of tape. What you need to do is use the
tape to mark the width of the fuselage by sticking the tape onto
the wing, up against the fuse sides.
Remove the wing and set the fuselage aside. You'll now need to
make to cutouts in the upper surface of the wing for the servos
wires to exit. But, because the fuselage is narrow, you can't make
the usual, large holes. These holes will be cut on either side of
the R1 ribs and they're roughly 4" back from the leading edge
of the wing. Make slots that are just wide enough to comfortably
pass your servo's connector through, and because of the tape, you
know the absolute limits of how wide these holes could be, minus
the width of the fuse sides.
n Step 120 - Servo hatch
Locate both SHs from
LP4. These are the servo
hatches, and the servos
are mounted to the
underside of them.
Using your leftover 3/16"
x 3/8" basswood, cut 4
pieces that are roughly
the same width as your servos. Lightly sand the ends of the rails
to true them up.
Now take one SH and place your servo on it as shown. Make sure
that the servo arm is centered in the slot in both directions. Now
carefully glue one of the standoffs you just created to SH, on each
side of the servo - as shown in the photo. Take care not to glue the
servo to these pieces, or to SH.
So the same for the other hatch, but make sure it's a mirror image
of the first one.
You can then mount your servos to these rails using whatever
hardware was supplied the servos - and drilling the appropriate
sized mounting holes into the rails.
Now fit the servo hatches into position on the bottom of the
wing. Using the holes pre-cut into SH as a guide, drill four 3/32”
mounting holes into the basswood rails you installed. Harden the
wood with a bit of thin CA and you can use the supplied 2-56 x
3/4” self tapping screws to secure the hatches in place.
n Step 121 - Sanding
It's final sanding time and the time to get quite familiar with the
sanding tools of your choice. Take the time to perform a good
sanding, rounding the wing’s leading edge and blending it into
the wingtips. Go over the entire wing, making sure the sheeting is
smooth and the trailing edges are blended into the tips. Pound out
the extra time on those wing tips to make sure they are smooth,
perfect works of art and match each other exactly.
Go over the fuselage one more time making sure everything is
smooth
Round the leading edge of the stab as well as the trailing edges of
the elevator and rudder. Sand bevels into the leading edge of the
elevator halves, the rudder, and the ailerons.
The idea is to spend some time caressing this awesome airframe
you've created, smoothing the rough edges until it's something so
slippery that it will cut through the air like a knife through melted
butter.
What you should end up will be thing of beauty - something that
looks pretty darn close to this.
This completes assembly of the One-O Nine airframe.
nTank / Battery compartment fuel proofing
If you're using a glow engine, it is strongly recommended that you
fuel proof the inside of the tank compartment. As you know, fuel
has a nasty way of penetrating wood, causing it to disintegrate
over time. Spray (or brush) this on, also remembering to protect
the firewall.

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ONE-O- NINE
the center of the hinge as shown here.
This will keep the hinge centered as it's
pushed into the surfaces. When you've
got all the hinges for a surface in place,
then remove the pins and glue the
hinges.
Make sure that you attach the elevator
first, then the rudder.
Optional 3" Spinner
All full-scale 109's had a spinner. It
wasn't the typical spinner as it had
a "flattened", blunt profile. I've
duplicated that on our prototypes
using a standard DuBro 3" plastic
spinner. I've also made a short tutorial
video on how we did it. You can view it
at this link:
https://youtu.be/MJMmRsVrCxgClick
This completes the assembly of the One-O Nine. Now you’ll
need to adjust the control throws and check for balance.
Recommended C.G. setting:
An important part of preparing the aircraft for flight is properly
balancing the model. This is especially important because of the
various motor/battery combinations that can be used.
CAUTION! DO NOT SKIP THIS STEP!
The recommended Center of Gravity (CG) location for the One-O
Nine is 2-15/16" from the leading edge of the wing, as measured
at where the wing contacts the fuselage, and you’ll see this marked
on the fuselage plan with this symbol.
If necessary, move the battery, receiver,
and/or add weight to either the nose
or the tail until the correct balance is
achieved. Stick-on weights are available
at your local hobby store and work well
for this purpose.
Recommended Control Throws:
The amount of control throw should be adjusted as closely as
possible using mechanical means, rather than making large
changes electronically at the radio.
By moving the position of the clevis at the control horn toward
the outermost hole, you will decrease the amount of control throw
of the control surface. Moving it toward the control surface will
increase the amount of throw. Moving the pushrod wire at the
servo arm will have the opposite effect: Moving it closer to center
will decrease throw, and away from center will increase throw. Work
with a combination of the two to achieve something relatively
close to these throws that are good for everyday sport flying. If
competing in pattern, you'll probably want to dial these down a bit
to give a smoother appearance to your maneuvers.
Aileron 3/8” up/down (35% expo)
Elevator 1/2” up/down (25% expo)
Rudder 1-1/4” left/right (20% expo)
nControl horns, servo & pushrod installation
Although you can install the servos and control hardware after covering
your One-O Nine, we find it easier to temporarily mount everything
in place before covering. This way you have unblocked access inside
the fuselage and wings to get the servos, extensions, and pushrods in
place.
Shown in the following photos are an examples of the radio gear’s
installation in one of the One-O Nine prototypes.
Take a bit of time to plan things out.
Covering
Now it is time to cover the One-O Nine. Remove the powerplant,
pushrods, and any other components that would get in the way of
applying the covering.
Double check that all surfaces are smooth and ready to cover. Sand
as necessary, then cover the entire airframe with the covering/finish
of your choice.
When the covering is complete, re-attach all the components you
removed earlier in this step.
Logos, numbers, etc.
This is where you really get to be creative. There are seemingly
hundreds of different color schemes that were used on the full
scale 109's - well maybe not hundreds, but you get the idea. And
since this isn't a model that will be part of any scale competition,
feel free to mix and match details from any of them to get the look
that's right for you.
If you want to use some great pre-made, vinyl-cut graphics, Old
School Model Works has teamed up with Callie Graphics as a
supplier for pre-cut vinyl. Callie has been our go-to-girl for all our
vinyl graphics. She's a very well known provider of custom graphics
for R/C models and can work with you to
design just what you need, as I've have
supplied her with full-size outlines of the
OSMW One-O Nine to work from.
You can order straight from her, choosing
the colors that work for you.
Contact Callie
Graphics at this link: https://callie-graphics.
com or scan the QR code.
Note that Callie Graphics is not affiliated with Old School Model
Works, nor does Old School Model Works generate any income
from this partnership.
Attach the Control Surfaces
Now is the time to attach all the control surfaces to the airframe, by
gluing the hinges in position with thin C/A. We've noted suggested
hinge locations for each of the control surfaces on the plans.
When using the CA hinges, first push a pin through on side, at

Construction Manual www.oldschoolmodels.com Page 17
ONE-O- NINE
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Warranty Information
Old School Model Works guarantees this kit to be free from
defects in both material and workmanship at the date of purchase.
This warranty does not cover any parts damage by use or
modification. In no case shall Old School Model Works’ liability
exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. Further, Old School
Model Works reserves the right to change or modify this warranty
without notice.
In that Old School Model Works has no control over the final
assembly or material used for the final assembly, no liability shall be
assumed nor accepted for any damage of the final user-assembled
product. By the act of using the product, the user accepts all
resulting liability.
Limit of Liability
In the use of this product, our only obligation shall be to replace
such quantity of the product proven to be defective. The user shall
determine the suitability of the product for his or her intended use
and shall assume all risk and liability in connection therewith.
If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with
the use of this product, the buyer is advised to return this kit
immediately in new and un-opened condition.
As of this printing, you are required to register with the FAA if you
own this product.
For up-to-date information on how to register with the FAA, visit
https://registermyuas.faa.gov .
For additional assistance on regulations and guidance of UAS
usage, visit knowbeforeyoufly.org .
(Expert tip: Once the control throws have been set, cut a few pieces of
medium silicone fuel tubing (or heat shrink tubing) to go around each
of the clevises. This will keep them from opening during flight.)
Preflight:
Charge both the transmitter and receiver pack for your airplane.
Use the recommended charger supplied with your particular radio
system, following the instructions provided with the radio. In most
cases, the radio should be charged the night before going out
flying.
Check the radio installation and make sure all the control
surfaces are moving correctly (i.e. the correct direction and with
the recommended throws). Test run the engine and make sure it
transitions smoothly from idle to full throttle and back. Also ensure
the engine is tuned according to the manufacturer’s instructions,
and it will run consistently and constantly at full throttle when
adjusted.
Check all the control horns, servo horns and clevises to make
sure they are secure and in good condition. Replace any items
that would be considered questionable. Failure of any of these
components in flight would mean the loss of your aircraft.
Range check your radio before flying
Before each flying session, range check your radio. This is
accomplished by turning on your transmitter with the antenna
collapsed. Turn on the radio in your airplane, but do not attach the
arming switch.
With your airplane on the ground, you should be able to walk 30
paces away from your airplane and still have complete control of
all functions.
If not, don’t attempt to fly! Have your radio equipment checked
out by the manufacturer.

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