OLT 8x12 Santa Rosa User manual

8x12 Santa Rosa
Assembly Manual
Some of the safety and usage measures you may wish to consider include:
-snow load ratings vary by geographical location. If heavy or wet snowfall occurs, it is advisable to sweep the
snow off the roof(s).
-if the product is elevated, any structural and building code requirements are solely the customer's
responsibility, and should be abided by.
-in high or gusty wind conditions it is advisable to keep the structure securely grounded.
-have a regular maintenance plan to ensure screws, doors, windows and parts are tight.
Customer agrees to hold Outdoor Living Today Partnership and any Authorized Dealers free
of any liability for improper installation, maintenance and repair.
Revision #20
June 5, 2020
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Page 1
In the event of a missing or broken piece, simply call the Outdoor Living Today Customer
Support Line @ 1-888-658-1658 within 30 days of the delivery of your purchase. It is our
commitment to you to courier replacement parts, free of charge, within 10 business days of this
notification. Replacement parts will not be provided free of charge after the 30 day grace period.
Thank you for purchasing
an 8x12 Santa Rosa Garden
Shed from Outdoor Living
Today. Please take the time
to identify all the parts prior
to assembly.
Safety Points and Other onsiderations:
Our products are built for use based
on proper installation and normal
residential use, on level ground. Please
follow the instruction manual when
building your Santa Rosa and retain
the manual for future maintenance
purposes.

Parts List:
A. Floor Section
3 - 45 7/16” x 75” - Floor Joist Frames - Large
3 - 45 7/16” x 21” - Floor Joist Frames - Small
2 - 45 3/8” x 74 7/8” - Plywood Floor - Large
2 - 45 3/8” x 20 7/8” - Plywood Floor - Small
7 - 1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 71 3/4” - Floor Joists
1 - 1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 18” - Short Floor Joist
15 - 1” x 5 1/2” x 44 3/4” - Deck Boards for Porch
2 - 1” x 5 1/2” x 44 1/2” - Outter Deck Boards for Porch
10 - 1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 68 3/16” - Floor Runners
B. Wall Section
4 - 45 1/2” x 75” - Wall Panels - Bottom Wall Plates Unattached
4 - 1 5/8” x 2 1/2” x 45 1/2” - Bottom Plates
3 - 45 1/2” x 75” - Window Wall Panels
1 - 12” x 73” - Narrow Porch Wall Panel
3 - Functional Window Inserts
3 - Window Trim Pkgs - (1pc - 24 1/16” angle cut / 3pcs - 23” straight cut)
Door, Door Jambs & Header
1 - 1 1/2” x 3” x 73” - Door Jamb
1 - 2” x 3” x 45 1/2” - Door Header
1 - 31 1/2” x 42” - Bottom Door
1 - 31 1/2” x 30” - Top Door
2 - 1/2” x 2 1/2” x 72” - Interior Vertical Door Stops
1 - 1/2” x 2 1/2” x 35 1/4” - Interior Top Horizontal Door Stop
Gable Walls
2 - Rear Gable Walls - Triangular Shaped with Designer Shingles
2 - Middle Gable Walls - Triangular Shaped with Siding flush to frame
1 - Front Triangular Gusset Gable - Shingles
Top Wall Plates
3 - 3/4” x 2 1/2” x 32” - Rear Top Plates -
(2 pieces Angle cut on end, 1 piece straight cut both ends)
2 - 3/4” x 2 1/2” x 72” & 19” - Front Top Plates - Straight cut on ends
4 - 3/4” x 2 1/2” x 66 3/4” - Side Top Plates - Angle cut on edge length
C & D. Rafter and Roof Section
18 - 1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 56 1/2” - Rafters (angle cut)
2 - 3/4” x 4 1/2” x 52 1/2” - Ridge Boards
2 - 3/4” x 4 1/2” x 84” - Ridge Boards
2 - 1/16” x 3” x 7” - Metal Ridge Board Connectors
4 - 1/2” x 4 1/2” x 68 1/4” - Soffits (Both Sides)
2 - 3/4” x 3 1/2” x 72” - Roof Gussets - (angle cut on ends)
Roof Panels
2 - Outside Right Roof Panels (Shingles overhang roof plywood on 1 side)
2 - Outside Left Roof Panels (Shingles overhang roof plywood on 1 side)
2 - Middle Roof Panel (Shingles flush with roof plywood on sides)
Porch Section
2 - 3 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 73 7/8” - Long Porch Posts
1 - 3 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 42” - Short Deck Post plus Ball Top
3 - Hand Rail Sections
2 - 3/4” x 3 1/2” x 45” - Front Porch Extensions
2 - 1” x 4 1/2” x 74 7/8” - Front Wall Trim/Supports (rabbeted edge)
4 - Corner Brackets
12 - Post Base Trims - 1/2” x 1 1/2” x 4”
3 - Handrail Support Blocks - 1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 3 1/2”
2 - 1/2” x 44 1/2” x 48 1/2” - Porch Ceiling Panels
2 - 3/4” x 1” x 45” - Porch Ceiling Support Strips (edge cut)
1 - 3/4” x 1” x 32” - Doorway Floor Transition Strip (edge cut)
E. Miscellaneous Section
Ridge Caps
22 - Cedar Roof Ridge Caps (1 Ridge Cap shorter)
Bottom Skirting
2 - 1/2” x 4 1/2” x 48” - Front Bottom Skirting
8 - 1/2” x 4 1/2” x 45” - Side and Rear Bottom Skirting
Corner & Sidewall Trim
6 - 1/2” x 2 1/2” x 79” - Narrow Trim
1 - 1/2” x 2 1/2” x 75” - Ream Seam Trim
2 - 1/2” x 2 1/2” x 75” - Rear Filler Trim
2 - 1/2” x 4 1/2” x 82” - Rear Wide Corner Trim
2 - 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 44” - Horizontal Above Door Trim
1 - 1/2” x 2 1/2” x 72” - Porch Trim
1 - 1/2” x 2 1/2” x 72” - Door Trim
2 - 1/2” x 2 1/2” x 45 7/8” - Porch Roof Seam Trim - Angle cut ends
Facia Trim
4 - 3/4” x 3 1/2” x 58” - Front & Rear Facia - Angle cut on ends
4 - 3/4” x 3 1/2” x 71 3/4” - Side Facia
4 - 3/4” x 2 1/2” x 48” - Roof Nailing Strips
Filler Shingles (5 1/2” wide)
16 pcs - Long Filler Shingles (16” long)
4 pcs - Short Filler Shingles (7 1/4” long)
2 pcs - Rear Gable Filler Shingles (1-16” long / 1 - 7 1/2” long)
Misc. Pieces
3 - Flower Boxes
3 - Facia / Trim Detail Plates
2 - Pentagon Detail Plates
1 - Small Porch Detail Plate
2 - 1/2” x 5 1/2” x 23 1/4” - Front Post Detail Covers
1 pc - Spare Wall Siding
2 pcs - Spare Shingles- use to shim door, etc
Thank you for purchasing our 8x12 Santa Rosa Garden Shed.
Please take the time to identify all the parts prior to assembly.
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Page 2
Advice: Wood has a tendancy to split when
screwing near the ends of a board. To prevent
splitting, it is always recommended to pre-drill
pilot holes before screwing into these areas.

8x12 SANTA ROSA HARDWARE SHEET
2 1/2”
2”
1 1/4”
3/4”
2”
3/4”
1 1/2”
1 1/2”
Tee Hinge x4 Pull Handle
Ridge Board Connector x 2
Silver
Shingle
Square Drive Bit
Hardware Kit (Provided)
Safety Glasses Work Gloves
Safety Equipment Required (Not Provided)
Ladder
Screw Gun/Drill Tape Measure
Hammer Wood Clamp
Level Pliers
Tools Required (Not Provided)
1/8” Drill Bits
90° Metal
Bracket x 4
Black Barrel Bolt
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Page 3
Interior Barrel Bolt
Finishing
x 320
x 280
x 28
x 260
x 24
x 26
x 70
x 480
x 2
Black Headed
Black Headed
Single Rafter
Bracket x 4
Double Rafter
Bracket x 2

Before starting your project become familiar with this assembly manual and determine if you can
complete the project yourself or will require a professional contractor. Please note that certain
counties and municipalities require building permits prior to installation. We recommend to all
consumers that they check with their local county/municipality for these specifics prior to purchasing
any of our products since this is your sole responsibility.
Prior to the product arriving, clear the construction area. Remove all debris; roots, grass, rocks, etc.
Make sure the ground slopes away from the site at least 10 feet in all directions. If necessary, build
up the soil in the center of the site and slope away for the high point to provide drainage. Fill in any
low spots within the perimeter of the site. A slope of 1/8 inch per foot is enough to prevent water
accumulation. We recommend excavating the site 4-6 inches deep and laying gravel or crushed
rock where drainage may be a concern.
What type of foundation should I use?
Patio Stone Foundation : If the ground is stable and has sufficient drainage, you can set patio
stones directly on firm compacted soil. If not, consider laying down sand and then gravel or crushed
rock. Excavate the site making it about 12” wider and longer than the floor footprint. Excavate down
approximately 4-6 inches deep. Lay 1-2 inches of sand first and then fill with 3-4 inches of gravel or
rock for good drainage and support. Most of our sheds and playhouses include floors with support
runners. Support each runner with 4-5 patio stones (less for smaller sheds). Patio stones can be
anything from a mid size brick to a round our square 12” long by 1 1/2” thick stone. Place stones
directly under the floor runners, check for level and adjust height as necessary. Having a solid and
level foundation is the most critical piece of work you can do to make the project go smoothly. Most
of this work can be done prior to your shed arriving!
4x4 Pressure Treated Beam Foundation : You can build directly on pressure-treated beams or
railroad ties laid on a properly prepared construction site as mentioned above. Run beams
perpendicular to floor runners. Use a 2x4 straight piece of lumber on edge and a carpenter's level
to position correctly. To prevent the beams from shifting, secure them with ½ inch rebar inserted
through holes drilled in the beams and driven 3 to 4 feet into the ground. Leave each side or end of
the foundation open to promote drainage and air circulation beneath the floor. Consider using a wire
mesh or equivalent to prevent pesky critters from gaining access on ends.
Concrete - Slab Foundation : Typically a slab 3-4 inches thick laid over a sub-base of 4 inches of
gravel or crushed rock is sufficient but may vary depending on your geographic location. Using
either mix your own concrete or having it delivered by truck, ready to pour, depends on how much
time and effort you have to dedicate to the project. In any event, make sure you excavate the slab
area to a depth 6 inches. This would put the finished slab surface approximately 2 inches above
ground (remember you will be using 4 inches of gravel as your subbase). For example, a slab for
our 8’x12’ SpaceMaker Shed will require approximately 1 cubic yard of premixed concrete.
For more detailed information on how to pour your concrete-slab foundation or any other questions
regarding specifications, foundations and permits, please visit our website at
www.outdoorlivingtoday.com or call our Customer Support Line at 1-888-658-1658 to speak with
a Product Representative.
* Please note that all measurements in our Detailed Assembly Manuals may be subject to change without notice. Please
confirm exact foundation size with Outdoor Living Today if you have any concerns or questions.
What Can I Do Before My Shed Arrives?
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Page 4

Flush
with
framing
Plywood Floor
Large (2)
Floor Joist
Frames
Large (3)
Floor Runners
(10)
Plywood Floor
Small (2)
Exploded view of all parts necessary to complete
Floor Section. Identify all parts prior to starting.
Note: Floor Footprint is 136 1/2” deep x 96” wide.
Concrete Pad
(optional foundation method)
Floor Joist
Frames
Small (3)
1. Lay out Large Floor Joist Frame and 2 Floor Joists (1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 71 3/4”) as illustrated above.
Position Joists equally in Floor Joist Frame. Use Small Floor Joist Frame as a template to determine
joist position. Position Joist so flush with framing.
2. When correctly positioned, attach each Joist with 4 - 2 1/2” screws (2 per end). You can find the
Square Drive Screw Bit in the Hardware Kit Bag.
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Page 5
A. Floor Section
You can find the
Square Drive Bit for
the screws in with the
Hardware Kit Bag.
Floor
Joists (7)
Short Floor
Joist (1)

7. Attach Floor Runners (1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 68 3/16”)
to completed floor frame. There are 2 floor runners
per 136 1/2” side and 5 completed runners in total.
Use 6 - 2 1/2” screws per completed Runner.
96”
5. Complete all large and small frame attachments.
Screw each completed section together with
8 - 2 1/2” screws.
6. When completed, your floor footprint
should be 136 1/2” Deep x 96” Wide.
136 1/2”
8. Make sure Runners are flush with
outside and front and rear floor framing but
not overhanging.
3. Lay out Floor Joist Frames as illustrated.
There are 3 larger and 3 smaller Frame Sections.
The Footprint for the floor when attached together
will be 136 1/2” Deep x 96” Wide.
4. Attach each large and small floor joist
frames together with 6 - 2 1/2” screws per
section.
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Page 6
Material used for Floor
Runners are not graded
for appearance. Some
defect is allowed.

10. Position Plywood Floor pieces (4) on top of completed
floor joists. Plywood will sit slightly back from outside edge of
Floor Joist Framing.
Hint: Use a chalk line
to mark location of floor
joists to determine
screw placement.
Front
11. When in correct position, attach with 1 1/4” screws. Use
screws every 16”. The Plywood is cut slightly smaller than floor
framing. Keep plywood seams tight.
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Page 7
plywood
pushed together
at seam.
9. With Floor Runners
attached, carefully flip
the floor over and place
on your foundation.
Caution: you will need 2
people to assist you. Be
careful when laying floor
down not to bend or twist
it. When in place, level
floor completely.
Concrete Slab
Foundation
centered on
floor frame.
Note: The floor will be flipped over and
floor runners will sit on your foundation.
It is important to note that having a
level foundation is critical. Choosing a
foundation will vary between regions.
Typical foundations can be concrete
pads or patio stones positioned
underneath the floor runners.
12. Place remaining 71 3/4” Floor Joist and 18” Short Floor Joist in
floor cavity. Attach to floor frame with 4 - 2 1/2” screws for the long joist
and 2 - 2 1/2” screws for the short joist. These extra joists will make a
larger attachment surface for the patio deck boards in Step 24.
Important: Make sure floor
is level before moving on
to wall section. Use a level
to confirm and shim floor
joists as required.

Exploded view of all parts necessary to complete the
Wall Section. Identify all parts prior to starting.
13. Lay out all the wall panels
and become familiar with their
location. On Standard Kits,
there are 3 Window Wall
Panels, 4 Solid Wall Panels,
and 1 Narrow Porch Wall
Panel. Make sure to position
panels right side up so water is
directed away from and not into
shed. Look at window wall
panels to determine proper wall
orientation.
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Page 8
B. Wall Section
Bottom
Wall
Plate
Door
Jamb
Door
Header
Window Wall
Panel (3)
Solid Wall
Panels (4)
Door
Header (1)
Middle Gable
Walls (2)
Side Top
Plates (4)
Angle cut on edge
Rear Top
Plates (3)
Rear Gable
Walls (2)
Front Wall Trim/Supports (2)
Left & Right Side Config.
Handrail Section (2)
Long Porch
Posts (2)
Top Plate Front
Extension (2)
Corner
Brackets (4)
Narrow Wall
Panel (12” wide)
Door Jamb (1)
Front Top
Plates (2)
Porch Deck
Boards (15)
Bottom Wall
Plates (4)
Outter Deck
Boards (2)

15. Starting at Rear Corner, position a Wall Panel on top of plywood floor. Depending on your
preference, you may use a solid or window wall panel in this position. If using a solid wall, make
sure panel is facing up. Side Wall panels will sit flush to the end of the plywood floor with the Rear
Wall panels sandwiched between them. Position the side wall panel so the wall framing is flush with
the floor framing. Floor plywood will be flush or slightly recessed from the wall/floor framing.
Note: Wall Siding will not be flush with floor frame, it will overhang by approximately 1/2”.
Important: Make sure
all walls are aligned in
their upright position. If
not, water may leak into
your playhouse. Unsure
if panel is facing up or
down? check siding on
window wall panel to
match alignment.
Outside 2x3 Plate of wall panel is
flush with outside of floor frame when
properly aligned. Floor plywood may
be slightly recessed.
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Page 9
Bottom Wall Plate
14. Starting with All Solid Wall Panels, carefully lay panel face down. Position and attach
Bottom Wall Plates (1 5/8” x 2 1/2” x 45 1/2”) to bottom of wall studs of each wall panel with
3 - 2 1/2” screws. Position so Wall Plates are flush with framing.
Side Wall Panel

16. Position rear corner wall into place and attach together with
3 - 2 1/2” screws. Screw at the top, middle and bottom of 2x3 stud.
Start positioning adjacent wall panels and fastening together.
17. Be sure to correctly position wall panels so siding overhangs your floor and wall framing is flush
with floor framing. Continue to attach walls together as per Step 16.
18. When attaching front corner wall panel, make sure panel is nested inside the side panel. Line up
wall framing and secure at top, middle and bottom of wall studs.
Rear Wall Panel
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Page 10
Rear Wall Panel
Do Not Attach Walls To
Floor Until Step 26.
Optional: Caulking seams
will help prevent moisture
from entering. Caulking not
included in kit.
Caulking

19. To complete walls, attach the Narrow Porch Wall to front wall panel. Note: the narrow wall is
only 73” high. Attach wall stud to adjoining wall with 3 - 2 1/2” screws.
20. Attach Door Jamb (1 1/2” x 3” x 73”) to right side wall stud. When positioned correctly, the Jamb
will overhang the right side wall panel framing by 1/2”. When in correct position, secure to wall stud
with 4 - 2 1/2” screws. Align Door Header (2” x 3” x 45 1/2”) on top of Narrow wall framing and on top
of Door Jamb. See picture below. Secure with 4 - 2 1/2” screws.
Narrow Wall
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Page 11
1/2” overhang
Door Header
positioned with
Dado to front
and top.
Door Jamb
Side Wall
PreDrill!
PreDrill!

Front Porch Extension
A.
B.
C.
Hand rail
equally
spaced on
Wall Trim
Support and
Porch Post.
Attach with
3 - 2” screws.
Hand
Rail
D.
Front Wall
Trim/Supports
with rabbeted
edge.
Hand Rail
Section
Long
Porch
Post
Exploded
View of
Porch Rail
Section
Corner
Bracket
Bracket centered
on post
4x4
Porch
Post
3 1/2” 3 - 2” screws
Wall Trim Support
- rabbeted edge
toward inside.
Front
Important:
Drill Pilot
Holes to
prevent wood
from splitting!
Porch
Post
Rear View
2 - 2”
screws
21. Complete the 2 Porch Rail Sections,
following steps Athrough D.
A. Attach Front Porch Extensions (3/4” x 3 1/2” x 45”)
to Long Porch Post (3 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 73 7/8”) with
2 - 2” screws. Make sure support is flush with post.
B. Attach Front Wall Trim/Supports (1” x 4 1/2” x 74 7/8”)
to Front Extension using 2 - 2” screws. Make sure Front
Extension is Flush to back of wall trim supports and
centered 1/2” on each side.
C. Attach both Corner Brackets with
3 - 2” screws. Attach from Front Extensions into
Brackets. Attach Brackets to Porch posts. Drill
Pilot hole in bracket first.
D. Attach Hand Rail to complete your Porch Rail
Section. Hand rail should start 3 1/2” from bottom of
Post and be centered on Post. Use 3 - 2” screws to
attach. Hand rail will be fastened to Wall Trim/Support
when it is attached to the wall in Step 30.
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Page 12
PreDrill!
2 - 2”
screws
PreDrill! PreDrill!
2 - 2”
screws
Plate Centered on
4 1/2” trim/supports.

22. Next, attach one Outter Deck Board (1” x 5 1/2” x 44 1/2”) to
the bottom of each Porch Rail Section. Position the Deck Board
flush with the Long Porch Post on one side and overhanging by
1/2” on the end. Ensure side that is flush with Post is on the same
side as the thick edge of Wall Trim Support.
Fasten Deck Board to the Long Porch Post with 2 - 2 1/2” Screws
per porch rail section. Fasten Wall Trim Support to Deck Board
with 2 - 2 1/2” Screws per porch rail section.
Deck Board
2 1/2” Screws
4x4 Porch Post
23. With the Porch Rail Sections complete, attach them to
the deck area of the shed. Deck Boards will be positioned
flush with the floor frame in the front corners. Fasten to Floor
Joists with 4 - 2” Screws per Deck Board. Pre-drill for screws
at the ends of the deck boards.
Flush Flush
Deck Board
PreDrill!
PreDrill!
PreDrill!
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Page 13
Flush 1/2” overhang
Thick edge
of Wall Trim
Support
PreDrill!
Thick edge of Wall
Trim Support
Thick edge of Wall
Trim Support

Lay all Deck Boards down evenly
spaced prior to attaching.
24. Attach remaining 15 Deck Boards (1” x 5 1/2” x 44 3/4”) using 4 - 2” Screws per piece.
Equally space all deck boards before attaching. Ensure screws enter the floor joists beneath deck
boards. Pre-drill for screws at the ends of the deck boards.
PreDrill!
PreDrill!
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Page 14
25. Prior to fastening walls and installing rafters, take time to confirm your
walls are level, square and plumb. Measure diagonal at top and bottom of
walls corner-to-corner. If measurements are not within 1/4”, your walls are
not square. Adjusting now will make it easier to install roof section.
125 1/4”
125 1/4”
Check for
plumb

27. Position Rear Top Plates (3/4” x 2 1/2” x 32”)
on top of wall studs so they are flush on the inside
with 2x3 wall stud. The Top Plate is comprised of
3 pieces (2 outside pieces with an angle cut on one
end and a center piece that is straight cut). Attach
by screwing down into top wall plate with
4 - 2” screws each.
Angle cut
on ends.
Top Plates should be flush
with inside of wall framing.
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Page 15
26. When all walls are attached together, check
alignment with the floor. Bottom wall plates should sit
flush with outside of floor frame. When positioned
correctly, fasten bottom wall plates to floor using
4 - 2 1/2” screws per wall panel.
Wall Plate
32” wide
Confirm 32” Wide Door
Opening at Top and Bottom.
Optional: Caulking seams will help
prevent moisture from entering at
seam. Caulking not included in kit.
Caulking
Angle
screws into perimeter
Floor Joists.

29. Position the Front Top Plates (3/4” x 2 1/2”
x 72” & 19”) on top of Door Header and front wall
panel. There are 2 plates (72” and 19” long).
Front top plates are straight cut on the ends.
Once again, the plate will be flush with inside of
top wall framing. Attach with 6 - 2” screws (4
screws in long and 2 in short plate).
Flush
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Page 16
28. Attach the 4 Side Top Plates (3/4” x 2 1/2”
x 66 3/4”) There are 2 Side Top Plates per side.
The side top plates are angle cut down the
length. Once again, position top plate on wall
plate so it is flush with inside of wall plate. Side
plate should also be flush with rear wall plate.
Secure with:
4 - 2” screws per rear piece.
1 - 2” screw & 3 - 1 1/4” screws per front piece.
PreDrill!
PreDrill!
3 - 1 1/4” screws
1 - 2”
screw
4 - 2”
screws

33. From the outside, slide in a Rear Gable Wall
Filler Shingle to cover gable seam. Nail down
above the exposure line with 2 - 1 1/2” shingle nails.
34. Complete by attaching the short 7 1/2”
top Filler Shingle with 2 - 1 1/2” shingle nails.
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Page 17
See Step 64 for
explanation of
exposure line.
32. Locate both Rear Gable Wall pieces. Rear Gables have shingles that overhang the top and
bottom of the gable frame. Screw together with 3 - 2 1/2” screws.
30. Attach Wall Trim/Supports to wall with
3 - 2 1/2” screws per side. Try to conceal
screws if possible.
31. At the doorway of your shed there will be a small gap
between the deck boards and floor plywood. Fill this gap
with the Doorway Floor Transition Strip (3/4” x 1” x 32” -
angle edge cut) and attach with 4 - 1 1/2” finishing nails.

38. Position the Middle Gable Wall on top of front top plate. Middle gable has cedar siding on the
front that is cut flush with gable framing. Once again, the framing of the gable should be flush with
outside of plate and be centered sideways on the plate. When in correct position, attach with
2 - 2” temporary screws as per Step 36.
Later in Step 50, complete attachment with 8 more 2” Screws.
37. Locate both Middle Gable Walls and attach together as per Step 32.
Siding is
flush with
framing
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Page 18
Gable Notch
36. Position the Rear Gable Wall on top of the Rear Top
Plate. The rear gable framing should sit flush with the
inside of the top plate. It should also be centered sideways
on the top plate. Hint: use a straight edge to check the
angle of the gable framing and top plate. Both angles
should line up. Adjust gable accordingly. Temporarily
attach to walls and Top Plate with 2 - 2” screws. Gables
may need slight adjustment in Step 50. Complete
attachment in Step 50 with additional 8 - 2” screws. Screw
from the bottom of gable framing down into Top Plate and
Wall.
Filler
Shingles
35. Lift up the rear completed gable section
and place on top of rear walls.

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Page 19
Outside Roof
Panels (2)
Middle Roof Panels (2)
Exploded view of all parts necessary to complete the Roof Section.
Identify all parts prior to starting. (Roof Filler Shingles Missing)
Outside Roof
Panels (2)
Roof
Rafters (18)
(9 per side)
Ridge Boards (4)
2 - 84” long
2 - 52 1/2” long
Soffits (4)
1/2” x 4 1/2” x 68 1/4”
Ridge Board
Ridge Board
Metal Ridge Board Connector
39. Locate Ridge Boards (3/4” x 4 1/2” x 84” & 52 1/2” - 1 each) and attach together with Metal Ridge
Board Connector using 8 - 3/4” silver screws. Total Length when connected is 136 1/2”. Complete two
Sets. Position Metal Ridge Board Connector evenly on Ridge Boards.
Metal Ridge
Board
Connectors (2)
8 - 3/4” Screws
Roof
Gussets (2)
C. & D. Rafter and Roof Section
Rafter
Brackets (6)
4 - Single
2 - Double

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Page 20
42. Attach end of a 68 1/4” long Soffit Board
flush to ends of outside rafters with
2 - 1 1/4” screws per rafter end. Drill pilot hole in
Soffit ends to prevent splitting. Complete both
outside rafter / Soffit connections first. Measure
and position interior Rafters as illustrated above.
When positioned correctly, attach Soffits to
remaining rafters with 2 - 1 1/4” screws per rafter.
Flip completed rafter section over. Complete 2nd
Rafter section now as per Steps 40 - 42 with the
following exception: When attaching Ridge
Board to Rafter ends, make sure Metal Ridge
Board Connector is positioned so
offset to first Rafter Section. See Step 49 for
illustration.
41. Attach completed Ridge Board to ends of both outside
rafters with 2 - 2” screws per end. Measure and position interior
Rafters as illustrated below. When positioned correctly, attach
Ridge Board to remaining rafters with 2 - 2” screws per rafter end.
40. Locate 9 Rafters (1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 56 1/2”),
2 Soffits (1/2” x 4 1/2” x 68 1/4”) and completed Ridge
Board. Lay out on level ground as shown to the right.
Double up Rafters as illustrated. Screw doubled up
Rafters together with 3 - 2 1/2” screws per piece.
Note: Completed rafter section will be flipped over in
Step 42.
Ridge Board
Soffits
Rafter
Soffit
68 1/4”
45 1/2”
20 1/2”
20 1/2”
20 1/2”
45 1/2”
45 1/2”
136 1/2”
Connector
Plate to
inside
2 1/2” Screws
into Doubled
up Rafters
Carefully flip
Rafter Sections
over when
complete
Important:
Pilot Hole Ridge
Board to prevent
splitting!
Important:
Pilot Hole Soffit to
prevent splitting!
PreDrill!
PreDrill!