OLT 8x4 GardenSaver User manual

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Page 1
8x4 GardenSaver Garden Shed
Single Door - Metal Roof
Assembly Manual
Revision #1.6
Jan 28 2021
Thank you for purchasing
an 8x4 GardenSaver -
Single Door Shed. Please
take the time to identify all
the parts prior
to assembly.
Please be aware that it is the
customers’ sole responsibility
to acquire the necessary
building permits and or obtain
approval from their local
county, municipality or HOA
prior to purchasing. Generally,
shed structures under 100
square feet do not require
permits in most jurisdictions
in the United States and
Canada. Optional door
configuration
In the event of a missing or broken piece, call the Outdoor Living Today Customer Support Line @ 1-888-658-1658 with-
in 30 days of the delivery of your purchase. It is our commitment to you to courier replacement parts, free of charge,
within 10 business days of this notification. Replacement parts will not be provided free of charge after the 30 day
grace period.
All structures purchased from Outdoor Living Today are covered for a period of one year for defects in manufacturing
and workmanship. Costs incurred for customer installations are not included.
Failure to use supplied parts included in this kit could result in poor product performance and may void your warranty.
Please contact Outdoor Living Today’s Customer Toll Free Line if you plan to deviate from our written instructions.
- Snow load ratings vary by geographical location. If heavy or wet snowfall occurs, it
is advisable to sweep snow off roof frequently.
- If the product is elevated, any structural and building code requirements are solely
the customer's responsibility, and should be abided by.
- In areas with high or gusty wind conditions, it is advisable to install the structure
securely to the ground.
- Have a regular maintenance plan to ensure screws, doors, windows and parts are
tightly affixed.
Customer agrees to hold Outdoor Living Today and any Authorized
Dealers free of any liability for improper installation, maintenance and
repair.
Stock Code: GS84-S-Metal

Thank you for purchasing our 8x4 GardenSaver -Single Door Shed.
Please take the time to identify all the parts prior to assembly.
Parts List:
A. Floor Section
1 - 45 ½” x 75” - Large Floor Frame (2 Joists unattached)
1 - 45 ½” x 21” - Small Floor Frame (2 Joists ATTACHED)
2 - 1 ½” x 3 ½” x 72” - Floor Joists
(Steps 1 - 3)
5 - 1 ½” x 3 ½” x 45 ½” - Floor Runners
(Steps 4 - 6)
1 - 5/8” x 45 ½” x 75” - Plywood Flooring
1 - 5/8” x 45 ½” x 21” - Plywood Flooring
(Steps 7 - 8)
B. Wall Section
4 - 1 ½” x 2 ½” x 45 ½” - Wall Plates
4 - 45 ½” x 75” - Solid Wall Panels
1 - 45 ½” x 75” - Window Wall Panel
1 - 12” x 73” - Narrow Wall Panels
(Steps 9 - 18)
1 - 2” x 3 ½” x 45 ½” - Door Header - (Dado top edge)
2 - ¾” x 3 ½” x 73” - Door Jambs - Vertical
(Steps 19 - 21)
2 - Top Triangular Siding Pc for Angle Wall Extendors (L/R)
2 - 45 ¼” - Angle Wall Extendors (L/R)
2 - 9” x 45 ½” - Wall Extendors
(Steps 22 - 28)
1 - ¾” x 3 ½” x 70” - Horizontal Wall Cleat
1 - ¾” x 3 ½” x 21” - Horizontal Wall Cleat
(Step 29)
C. Rafter & Roof Section
6 - 1 ½” x 2 ½” x 54” - Rafters
1 - 3” x 2 ½” x 54” - Rafter
2 - ½” x 3 ½” x 48” - Front Soffits
2 - ½” x 3 ½” x 48” - Rear Soffits
(Steps 31 - 36)
4 - ¾” x 3 ½” x 50” - Roof Battens
1 - ¾” x 3 ½” x 74” - Roof Batten
1 - ¾” x 3 ½” x 26” - Roof Batten
1 - ¾” x 1 ½” x 21 1/2” - Batten Spacers
(Steps 37 - 40)
2 - ¾” x ¾” x 51” - Rafter/Facia Nailing Cleats
(Step 41)
3 - 39” wide x 58 ½” long - Metal Roof Panels
(Steps 42 - 48)
Several Pcs - Foam Enclosures for Metal Roof
(Steps 47 & 69)
D. Miscellaneous Section
(Skirting, Trim, Door, Facia & Misc. Parts)
6 - ¾” x 4 ½” x 45 ¼” - Bottom Skirting (Bevel Siding)
(Steps 49 - 52)
8 - 7/8” x 2 ½” x 36” - Corner Filler Trims
2 - 7/8” x 2 ½” x 10” - Front Center Corner Filler Trims
(Steps 53 - 55)
2 - ½” x 5 ½” x 79” - Rear Corner Trims
2 - ½” x 5 ½” x 88 ¾” - Front Corner Trims
2 - ½” x 2 ½” x 80” - Side Rear Corner Trims
2 - ½” x 2 ½” x 88 ¾” - Side Front Corner Trims
1 - ½” x 2 ½” x 79” - Rear Middle Trim
(Steps 56 - 59)
2 - ½” x 3 ½” x 77 ½” - Vertical Door Trims
1 - ½” x 2 ½” x 46 ¾” - Horizontal Door Trim
1 - ½” x 3 ½” x 8 ¾” - Front Middle Trim
(Steps 60 - 62)
1 - 31 ½” x 72” - Full Door
(Steps 63 - 65)
2 - ½” x 4” x 54 1/8” - Side Facia (Angle Cut Ends) - reverse
4 - ½” x 4” x 50 ½” - Front and Rear Facia
(Steps 66 - 68)
2 - 60” long (angled) - Metal Drip Caps
(Step 70)
1 - Detail Facia Plate (4” high)
(Step 71)
1 - ½” x ½” x 32” - Upper Horizontal Door Stop
4 - ½” x ½” x 36 ¼” - Vertical Door Stops
(Steps 72 - 73)
1 Aluminum Window Insert
(Steps 74 - 75)
Window Trim Pkg
1 - 24 1/16” angle cut / 3 - 23” Straight Cut - Window Trim Kit
(Step 76)
1 Flower Box Kit
(Step 77)
1 - 45 ¼” - Extra Piece of Bevel Wall Siding - Use if wall
panel siding is damaged or to shim floor or door.
Optional Pieces - When Door configured on end.
1- 1 ½” x 3 ½” x 73” - Optional Door Jamb
1 - ½” x 2 ½” x 42 ½” - Optional Horizontal Door Trim
1 - ½” x 2 ½” x 88 ¾” - Optional Front Middle Trim
(Optional - Steps 80 - 83)
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Note: All Trim, Facia and Bottom Skirting pieces will be positioned rough face out when installed.

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8x4 GARDENSAVER - SINGLE DOOR WITH METAL ROOF - HARDWARE PACKAGE
Tee Hinge x 3 Door Handle x 1
Square Drive Bit
Hardware Kit (Provided)
Safety Glasses Work Gloves
Safety Equipment Required (Not Provided)
Ladder
Screw Gun/Drill Tape Measure
Hammer Wood Clamp
Level Pliers
Tools Required (Not Provided)
1/8” Drill Bit
Barrel Bolt
Utility Knife
2 1/2”
1 1/4”
3/4”
2”
1 1/2” Finishing Nail
Caulking
x 150
x 228
x 22
x 12
x 240
x 1
Black Headed
Black Headed
4” x 6
x 14
1/4” x 2”
Metal Roof Hanger x 3
x 1
1/4” Nut Driver
Metal Roof Screw
Y2 - 90° Metal
Bracket (Roof) x 4
Silicon Caulking (1)

Before starting your project become familiar with this assembly manual and determine if you can
complete the project yourself or will require a professional contractor. Please note that certain
counties and municipalities require building permits prior to installation. We recommend to all
consumers that they check with their local county/municipality for these specifics prior to purchasing
any of our products since this is your sole responsibility.
Prior to the product arriving, clear the construction area. Remove all debris; roots, grass, rocks, etc.
Make sure the ground slopes away from the site at least 10 feet in all directions. If necessary, build
up the soil in the center of the site and slope away for the high point to provide drainage. Fill in any
low spots within the perimeter of the site. A slope of 1/8 inch per foot is enough to prevent water
accumulation. We recommend excavating the site 4-6 inches deep and laying gravel or crushed
rock where drainage may be a concern.
What type of foundation should I use?
Patio Stone Foundation : If the ground is stable and has sufficient drainage, you can set patio
stones directly on firm compacted soil. If not, consider laying down sand and then gravel or crushed
rock. Excavate the site making it about 12” wider and longer than the floor footprint. Excavate down
approximately 4-6 inches deep. Lay 1-2 inches of sand first and then fill with 3-4 inches of gravel or
rock for good drainage and support. Most of our sheds and playhouses include floors with support
runners. Support each runner with 4-5 patio stones (less for smaller sheds). Patio stones can be
anything from a mid size brick to a round our square 12” long by 1 1/2” thick stone. Place stones
directly under the floor runners, check for level and adjust height as necessary. Having a solid and
level foundation is the most critical piece of work you can do to make the project go smoothly. Most
of this work can be done prior to your shed arriving!
4x4 Pressure Treated Beam Foundation : You can build directly on pressure-treated beams or
railroad ties laid on a properly prepared construction site as mentioned above. Run beams
perpendicular to floor runners. Use a 2x4 straight piece of lumber on edge and a carpenter's level
to position correctly. To prevent the beams from shifting, secure them with ½ inch rebar inserted
through holes drilled in the beams and driven 3 to 4 feet into the ground. Leave each side or end of
the foundation open to promote drainage and air circulation beneath the floor. Consider using a wire
mesh or equivalent to prevent pesky critters from gaining access on ends.
Concrete - Slab Foundation : Typically a slab 3-4 inches thick laid over a sub-base of 4 inches of
gravel or crushed rock is sufficient but may vary depending on your geographic location. Using
either mix your own concrete or having it delivered by truck, ready to pour, depends on how much
time and effort you have to dedicate to the project. In any event, make sure you excavate the slab
area to a depth 6 inches. This would put the finished slab surface approximately 2 inches above
ground (remember you will be using 4 inches of gravel as your subbase). For example, a slab for
our 8’x12’ SpaceMaker Shed will require approximately 1 cubic yard of premixed concrete.
For more detailed information on how to pour your concrete-slab foundation or any other questions
regarding specifications, foundations and permits, please visit our website at
www.outdoorlivingtoday.com or call our Customer Support Line at 1-888-658-1658 to speak with
a Product Representative.
* Please note that all measurements in our Detailed Assembly Manuals may be subject to change without notice. Please
confirm exact foundation size with Outdoor Living Today if you have any concerns or questions.
What Can I Do Before My Shed Arrives?
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Page 4

Plywood Floor
Large Floor
Joist Frame
Floor Joists (2)
Floor Runners (5)
Small Floor
Joist Frame
Exploded Floor Section
A. Floor Section Exploded view of all parts necessary to
complete Floor Section. Identify all parts
prior to starting. Note: Floor Footprint is
96” wide x 45 1/2” deep.
Foundation Material
not included.
1. Lay out Large Floor Joist Frame and 2 Floor Joists (1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 71 7/8”) as illustrated
above. Position Joists equally in Floor Joist Frame. Use Small Floor Joist Frame as a template to
determine joist position. Position Joist so flush with framing.
2. When correctly positioned, attach each Joist with 4 - 2 1/2” Screws (2 per end). You can find
the Square Drive Bit for the screws in with the Hardware Kit Bag.
Flush
with
framing.
Front of GardenSaver
Door Location. Small Floor
Joist Frame.
You can find the
Square Drive Bit, for
the screws, in the
Hardware Kit Bag.
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Page 5

3. With Floor Joist Frames positioned
together flush, attach with 6 - 2 1/2” Screws.
4. Position and attach Floor Runners
(1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 45 1/2”) to completed floor
frames with 6 - 2 1/2” Screws per Runner.
Make sure Runners are flush with outside
of floor framing but not overhanging. Make
sure 4th Runner is placed equally over seam
where floor frames meet.
4th Runner
4th Runner
96”
45 1/2”
5. With Floor Runners attached, carefully flip the floor over and place on your foundation.
Caution - you may need 2 people to assist you. Be careful when laying floor down not to bend or twist
floor. Note: The floor will be flipped over and floor runners will sit on your foundation. It is important
to note that having a level foundation is critical. Choosing a foundation will vary between regions.
Typical foundations can be concrete pads or patio stones positioned underneath the floor runners.
6. When in place, level floor completely
before proceeding. 7. Position Plywood Floor pieces (2) on top of
completed floor joists.
Flush with Floor Framing.
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Front

8. Position Plywood so it sits almost flush with outside of floor joist framing (see Note). When correctly
positioned, attach to all floor joists with approximately 24 - 1 1/4” Screws. Use screws every 16”.
B. Wall Section Exploded view of all parts necessary to
complete the Wall Section. Identify all parts
prior to starting.
Wall Plate
9. Locate 4 Solid Wall Panels and 4 Wall Plates (1 1/2” x 2 1/2” x 45 1/2”). Attach Plates to
bottom of studs of each wall panel with 3 - 2 1/2” Screws. Position so plates are flush with framing.
Note: Plywood is cut slightly smaller than
floor framing. Keep plywood seams tight.
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Important:
Pilot hole ALL 2x3 Wall
Studs with 1/8” drill bit prior to
screwing. This will make it much
easier to attached together.
Angled Wall
Extendors (2)
Door
Header
Solid Wall
Panels (4)
Wall Plates (4) Window Wall Panel
Door Jambs (2)
Narrow Wall Panel
Horizontal Wall Cleats Wall
Extendors (2)
Top Triangular
Siding Pcs (2) (L/R)
See Page 35 for
Optional End Door
Configuration.
Pilot Hole
first.

10. Starting on side, position a Solid Wall Panel on top of plywood floor.
The Wall Panel bottom framing will sit flush with floor framing. Wall siding will
overhang the floor. Important: Make sure all walls are aligned in their
upright position. If not, water may leak into your shed. Unsure if panel is
facing up or down? Recently attached Bottom Plate is on bottom of panel.
11. Outside 2x3 framing of wall panel should be flush with outside of floor framing when properly
aligned. Note: Do not align wall siding to floor. Align wall plate to outside of plywood floor. When
positioned correctly, locate 2nd Solid Wall Panel and place in corner.
Wall Plate Flush
with floor framing.
Do not align
wall siding to
floor. Align
wall plate to
outside of
plywood floor.
12. Butt both vertical wall studs of side and rear walls together and attach with 3 - 2 1/2” Screws.
Screw at the bottom, middle and top of stud to secure properly. Have helper push wall framing
together while securing to ensure tight fit. Note: Drill pilot holes in studs to prevent splitting.
Rear Solid Wall
Side Solid Wall
Do Not Attach Walls To
Floor until Step 30.
Optional - Caulking
seams will help prevent
moisture from entering
your shed. Caulking not
included in kit.
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Pilot Hole
first.
Wall Plate

13. With the corner wall attachment complete, position the second rear wall panel in place so
bottom 2x3 wall framing is sitting flush with outside floor framing. Wall siding should overhang floor by
approximately 3/4”. When positioned correctly, attach both wall panel studs together as per
Step 12 with 3 - 2 1/2” Screws.
14. With Rear Wall Panel in place, position other side wall panel on floor as per Step 10 & 11.
Rear Wall Panel
15. Secure side wall panel to rear wall panel as per Step 12. Next, locate the Narrow Wall Panel
and position in front.
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Do Not Attach
Walls To Floor
until Step 30.
Pilot Hole
first.
Pilot Hole
first.

16. Once again position the 2x3 wall plate so it
sits flush with floor framing and siding overhangs.
Note: Narrow Wall Panel is only 73” high.
17. When correctly positioned, secure
Narrow Wall Stud to Side Wall Stud with
3 - 2 1/2” Screws.
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Pilot Hole
first.
18. Align front corner Window Wall Panel as per Steps 11 & 12. using 3 - 2 1/2” Screws to
secure wall studs together.
19. Locate Door Jambs (2 @ 3/4” x 3 1/2” x 73”)
and place on wall stud to the right of door opening.
Door Jambs.
2x3 wall plate flush
with floor frame.

22. Locate an Angled Wall Extendor and Top Siding Piece for Angled Wall Extendor (L/R).
Position top siding on wall extendor and align as shown above. Attach with 3 - 1 1/2” Finishing Nails to
top wall framing. There are left/right top siding pieces. Use rough surface side out.
Place finished wall extendor on side wall panel frame. Complete both sides now.
Note: Bottom siding of wall extendor will overhang and cover siding of side wall.
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5 1/2”
5 1/2”
20. Position Door Jambs flush against narrow and window wall studs and tight to floor. The Jamb is
3 1/2” wide and will sit flush to outside of wall siding. When positioned correctly, secure Jambs using
4 - 2 1/2” Screws.
21. Position and attach the Door Header to top of Narrow Wall framing and against window wall framing
resting on top of door jambs. Header should sit flush on Door Jambs. Attach with 4 - 2 1/2” Screws. On
window side, screw about 1” from end of header at angle into window wall framing. Pilot hole first.
Dado cut on edge.
Jamb flush with
siding butt.
Jamb flush with
top of narrow wall.
Gap on window side.
Angle Pilot
Hole first.
Side Wall Panel
Front Window Wall Panel
Top Siding Pc.
Top Siding Pc. for Angle Wall can also be
installed after Roof is attached after Step 48.

23. Align wall framing of Angled Wall Extendor and Side Wall so they are flush at the back. The
siding for both walls should also align evenly from front to back.
24. With Angled Wall Extendor and Side Wall aligned correctly, secure together from the inside with
4 - 2 1/2” Screws.
25. Complete opposite Angled Wall Extendor positioning and attachment as per Steps 23 & 24.
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Siding
lines up.
Wall framings
flush.
Sidings will
overlap.

26. Locate one Wall Extendor and place on front window wall panel with siding of extendor
overlapping that of the front window wall.
27. With 2x3 wall framing aligned, attach Wall Extendor to both the Angled Wall Extendor framing
and the front window wall framing with 5 - 2 1/2” Screws.
28. Position and secure 2nd Wall Extendor Panel as per Steps 26 & 27. Additionally, attach to first
Extendor with 2 - 2 1/2” Screws.
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Siding of
Extension Wall.
Siding of
front wall.

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Flush with top
of wall framing.
99 1/4”
Advice: Prior to fastening walls and
installing rafters, take time to confirm your
walls are level, square and plumb.
Measure diagonal at top and bottom of
walls corner-to-corner. This should be
approximately 99 1/4”. More importantly,
if measurements are not within 1/4”, your
walls are not square. Adjusting now will
make it easier to install roof section.
99 1/4”
29. Align Horizontal Wall Cleats (1 @ 3/4” x 3 1/2” x 70”, 1 @ 3/4” x 3 1/2” x 21”) flush with top of
Rear Wall framing. To help strengthen the Rear Walls, there is a short and a long wall cleat which
meet off-center from the seam between walls. Attach Cleats with 8 - 1 1/4” Screws.

C. Rafter and Roof Section
Exploded view of all parts necessary to complete the Rafter and Roof Section. Identify all parts
prior to starting.
Rear Soffits (2)
Rafters (6)
Front Soffits (2)
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30. To complete Wall Section, attach bottom 2x3 wall plates to plywood floor with 22 - 2 1/2” Screws.
Confirm Doorway opening is 32” wide. Prior to securing, make sure wall panels are aligned correctly
on the floor. Refer to Step 11. Wall siding should overhang floor while 2x3 wall plates should sit flush
with floor.
Bottom Wall
Optional - Caulking seams will help
prevent moisture from entering at
seam. Caulking not included in kit.
Confirm doorway opening is
32” wide at top and bottom.
Metal Roof
Panels (3)
Roof Battens
50” (4)
Roof Batten
74” (1)
Foam Enclosures for
Metal Roof (several)
Roof Batten
26” (1)
Facia Nailing
Strips (2)

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31. Locate 6 Rafters, 2 Rear Soffits and 2 Front Soffits. Lay out on level ground and assemble as
shown in Illustrations A through C below. Attach Soffit Boards flush to end of
outside rafters with 2 - 1 1/4” screws per rafter end. Important: Drill pilot holes in Soffit ends to
prevent splitting. Measure and attach interior Rafters as illustrated above. Measure and attach
remaining Soffit/Rafter connections using 2 - 1 1/4” screws per rafter/soffit.
Front Soffit Boards (2)
Rear Soffit
Boards (2)
48”
21 3/4”
21 3/4”
96”
A. B. C.
Rear Soffit
Mid Rafter Mid Rafter
Rear
Front Soffits
Screw center rafters together
with 3 - 2 1/2” screws.
Note: We recommend you drill a 1/8” pilot hole for each
screw, to avoid splitting wood. The hole depth should be
equal to 3/4 the length of screw.
Confirm angles on rafter
ends are aligned.

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Rear Walls
Rafter sits on framing
33. Position completed Rafter Section on top of walls. Outside Rafters will sit on Extension Wall
framing and be positioned equally from side to side.
34. When Rafter Section is positioned correctly, both Front and Rear Soffits will sit approximately 1/8”
away from wall siding. This can vary slightly.
32. Carefully flip completed Rafter Section over so Front Soffit is facing the front and place on
SpaceSaver walls. Note: Double check that your Rafter Section is positioned correctly by ensuring the
ends of the Rafters are sloped vertically as shown above.
Rafter ends vertical.
Side View
Rear Soffit.
Front Soffit.

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Page 18
35. With Rafter Section correctly aligned, secure rafters to walls using 8 - 90° Metal Brackets. Start
with outside rafters and work inwards, attaching with 16 - 1/4” screws. Screw into Wall Extension
Framing at the front, and Wall Panel top Framing at the rear. Complete both sides.
90° Metal Brackets
36. With outside rafters properly secured, completely secure remaining interior rafters using
6 - 2 1/2” Screws. Screw into rafters from inside of Extension Wall Framing at front of shed and
inside Rear Wall framing at rear of shed, behind Horizontal Wall Cleats.
37. Locate first row of Roof Battens ( 2 pcs x 3/4” thick x 3 1/2” wide x 50” long) and posi-
tion front of roof on Rafters. Batten will sit evenly on center rafters overhanging 2” on the out-
side rafters. Attach Batten with 6 - 1 1/4” screws, one per each rafter. Important pre-drill pilot
hole with 1/8” drill bit first to prevent rafter from splitting. Complete attachment of both 50” long
roof Battens.
Front Rear
Important: Pre-drill pilot hole with 1/8” drill bit first to prevent rafter from splitting.
Flush with Rafter end.
Overhanging 2 on outside rafter.
Center Rafters
Screw into center
of rafter

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Page 19
Batten Spacers
38. Place Batten Spacers (2 pcs x 3/4” x 1 1/2” x 21 1/2”) below each end of the attached Batten,
lengthwise along outside Rafter. Ensure Batten Spacer is tight with Batten. Attach Batten Spacer to
Rafter using 2 - 1 1/4” screws (4 total)
39. Locate middle row of Roof Battens ( 2 pcs x 3/4” thick x 3 1/2” wide) and attach flush
with previously attached Batten Spacers via the same method as Step 37. Attach a second
row of Batten Spacers flush with the bottom edge of this middle Batten row via the same
method as Step 38.
74” long Batten
26” long Batten
40. Locate lower row of Roof Battens ( 2 pcs x 3/4” thick x 3 1/2” wide x 50” long) and
attach flush with previously attached Batten Spacers via the same method as Step 37, using a
total of 6 - 1 1/4” screws.
Important: Pre-drill pilot hole with 1/8” drill bit first to prevent Batten Spacer from splitting.

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41. Center Facia Nailing Cleats ( 2 pcs x 3/4” x 3/4” x 51”) underneat outside of each batten.
Attach with 3 - 1 1/4” screws evenly spaced into the batten. The Facia Nailing Cleat provides a
greater surface later when you attach side facia.
42. Locate all Metal Roof Hangers (3pcs) and Metal
Roof Panels (3pcs - 39” wide x 58 1/2” long - Identical). To
temporarily help hold the Metal Roof Panel in place, hook
a Metal Roof Hanger onto the lower Batten approximately
where the center of the first Panel will be. Place the first
Metal Roof Panel on Battens. Do not fasten Panels down
until Steps 46 & 48. Place other two Metal Roof Panels
with Hangers the same way.
Metal Roof Hangers will temporarily
help keep Metal Roof Panels in
place before they are fastened.