OLT GS124-SLIDER-CEDAR-AK User manual

Version #1.5
July 22, 2021
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Page 1
In the event of a missing or broken piece, call the Outdoor Living Today Customer Support Line @ 1-888-658-1658 with-
in 30 days of the delivery of your purchase. It is our commitment to you to courier replacement parts, free of charge,
within 10 business days of this notification. Replacement parts will not be provided free of charge after the 30 day
grace period.
All structures purchased from Outdoor Living Today are covered for a period of one year for defects in manufacturing
and workmanship. Costs incurred for customer installations are not included.
Failure to use supplied parts included in this kit could result in poor product performance and may void your warranty.
Please contact Outdoor Living Today’s Customer Toll Free Line if you plan to deviate from our written instructions.
Thank you for purchasing a
12x4 GardenSaver Shed with
Sliding Double Doors. Please take
the time to identify all the parts
prior to assembly.
Safety Points and Other Considerations
Our products are built for use based on
proper installation on level ground and
normal residential use. Please follow the
instruction manual when building your
shed and retain the manual for future
maintenance purposes.
Customers are responsible for ensuring
a solid, level, well-draining site for
construction.
Please check with your local municipal
or county by-laws before ordering this
product to confirm it complies with
building codes.
- Snow load ratings vary by geographical location. If heavy or wet snowfall occurs, it
is advisable to sweep snow off roof frequently.
- If the product is elevated, any structural and building code requirements are solely
the customer's responsibility, and should be abided by.
- In areas with high or gusty wind conditions, it is advisable to install the structure
securely to the ground.
- Have a regular maintenance plan to ensure screws, doors, windows and parts are
tightly affixed.
Customer agrees to hold Outdoor Living Today and any Authorized
Dealers free of any liability for improper installation, maintenance and
repair.
Stock Code:
GS124-SLIDER-CEDAR-AK
12x4 GardenSaver
Sliding Doors - Cedar Roof - AK Siding
Assembly Manual

What to do before my Shed arrives?
Become familiar with this assembly manual and determine if you can•
complete the project yourself or will require a professional contractor.
Clear the construcon area and ensure a clear pathway for delivery when•
the freight company arrives. Remove all debris: roots, grass, rocks, etc.
Excavate the site. Contact your local ulies company to ensure there are•
no gas or electric lines buried in the area before digging.
Decide on the type of foundaon you will be using:•
 Concrete slab, or
 46 inches of crushed gravel with paver stones or 4x4 stringers.
You can find the footprint for your shed on Page 3 of your Assembly Manual.
If doing the assembly yourself, have all the necessary tools ready to go and in•
working condion. A list of required tools can be found aer the parts list.
One helper is recommended to assist in construcng your shed.•
It generally takes two people over two days to assemble a shed. If you’re
hiring a contractor, their rate should be in line with that duraon of work.
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Page 2

Foundation Types for 12x4 Garden Shed
Concrete Slab Foundation:
- Slab must be at least the same size as assembled floor frame (45 1/2” x 141 1/2”) or larger.
- 6” Deep foundation.
- 0.9 Cubic Yards of concrete required.
- A concrete slab will have the longest durability out of your foundation options.
Once level, a concrete slab is the easiest surface to build on.
Gravel with 4x4 Pressure Treated Stringers:
- Excavate at least 6” deep, and 6” wider than floor frame on each side.
- 1.2 Cubic Yards of gravel required, approximatley 11 wheelbarrows.
- 3 - 4x4 Pressure Treated Stringers 12’ long required.
- Evenly spaced, with one at each end of floor frame.
Saves money on materials, easy to level and work with.
Gravel with Patio Paver Stones:
- Excavate at least 6” deep, and 6” wider than floor frame on each side.
- 1.2 Cubic Yards of gravel required, approximatley 11 wheelbarrows.
- 21 patio pavers (8” x 8” or larger).
- Center patio paver stones underneath floor runners and underneath seams in floor joists.
Patio paver stones are widely available from most landscape stores.
141 1/2”
45 1/2”
45 1/2”
141 1/2”
153 1/2”
57 1/2”
3 - 4”x4”x144”
21 Patio Stones
Floor FrameConcrete Foundation Completed Foundation
17 1/2”
Gravel Foundation Gravel Foundation with treated stringers Completed Foundation
Completed Foundation
153 1/2”
57 1/2”
Gravel Foundation Gravel Foundation with Patio Pavers
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Page 3

Thank you for purchasing our 12x4 Slider Lean-To Storage Shed.
Please take the time to identify all the parts prior to assembly.
1. Floor Section
Floors
1A: 2 - 45 ½” x 70 ¾” - Floor Frames
1B: 4 - 1 ½” x 3 ½” x 67 3/4” - Floor Joists
1C: 2 - 1 ½” x 3 ½” x 45 ½” - Floor Runners - Short
1CC: 5 - 1 ½” x 3 ½” x 47 ½” - Floor Runners - Long
1D: 2 - 5/8” x 45 3/8” x 70 5/8” - Plywood Floor
2. Wall Section
Main Wall Panels
2AA: 5 - 45 ½” x 75” - Side/Rear Wall Panels
2AB: 5 - 1 5/8” x 2 ½” x 45 ½” - Bottom Wall Plates - Side/Rear Walls
2BA: 2 - 35” x 73” - Front Wall Panels
2BB: 2 - 1 5/8” x 2 ½” x 35” - Bottom Wall Plates - Front Walls
Door Headers
2C: 2 - 2” x 3 ½” x 26 ¼” - Door Headers - Short
2D: 1 - 2” x 3 ½” x 84” - Door Header - Long (88” Aluminum Strip Attached)
2E: 1 - 1 ½” x 3” x 66 ½” - Interior Door Header
Extender Walls
2F: 2 - Top Triangular Siding Pc for Angle Wall Extenders
2G: 2 - 45 ¼” - Angle Wall Extenders - Left/Right
2H: 3 - 9” x 45 ½” - Wall Extenders
2I: 3 - 1 1/2” x 2 1/2” x 42 3/8” - Wall Extender Cleats
Wall Cleats
2J: 1 - ¾” x 3 ½” x 84” - Horizontal Wall Cleat - Long
2K: 2 - ¾” x 3 ½” x 26 ¼” - Horizontal Wall Cleats - Short
3. Rafter and Roof Section
Rafters
3A: 9 - 1 ½” x 2 ½” x 54” - Rafters
3B: 2 - ½” x 3 ½” x 48” - Front Soffits - Left/Right
3C: 1 - ½” x 3 ½” x 45 ½” - Front Soffit - Center
3D: 2 - ½” x 3 ½” x 48” - Rear Soffits - Left/Right
3E: 1 - ½” x 3 ½” x 45 ½” - Rear Soffit - Center
Roofs
3F: 2 - ¾” x ¾” x 51” - Facia Nailing Strips
3G: 2 - Roof Panels - 51” w x 56” d (1 - Left 1- Right)
3H: 1 - Roof Panel - 45 ½” w x 56” d (Center)
3I: 8 - 5 ½” Wide x 16” to 18” long - Filler Shingles
14-15, 23
Steps
Steps
16-21
22
Steps
31-42
7-13
1-6
25-30
Parts List - Pages 2, 3, and 4
Advice: Wood has a tendancy to split when
screwing near the ends of a board. To prevent
splitting, it is always recommended to pre-drill
pilot holes before screwing into these areas.
Continued on next page.
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Page 4

4. Trim & Miscellaneous Section
Bottom Skirting
4A: 5 - ¾” x 4 ½” x 45 ¼” - Side/Rear Bottom Skirting (Bevel Siding)
4B: 3 - ½” x 4” x 45 ¼” - Front Bottom Skirting
Filler Trim
4C: 4 - ½” x 2 ½” x 42” - Front Corner Filler Trims
4D: 4 - 7/8” x 2 ½” x 38” - Rear Corner Filler Trims
Door System
4E: 2 - Aluminum Door Tracks (with brackets attached)
4F: 2 - 36” x 73” - Sliding Doors
4G: 2 - 1 ½” x 1 ½” x 61 1/8” - Lower Door Track
4HA: 3 - ¾” x 3” x 44 ¼” - Lower Door Track Cover
4IA: 3 - 1 ½” x 2” x 3 ½” - Sliding Door Track Stops
4J: 1 - ¾” x 3 ½” x 71 ½” - Interior Door Flange
4KA: 2 - 1 ½” x 3 ½” x 66 ½” - Track Overlay - Top
4KB: 2 - ¾” x 5 ½” x 67” - Track Overlay - Front
4KC: 2 - ½” x 3 ½” x 5 ½” - Track Overlay - Ends
4KD: 3 - ½” x 4 ¼” x 44 ¼” - Track Overlay - Sill (Bevel)
Outer Wall Trim
4L: 2 - ½” x 5 ½” x 88 ¾” - Front Corner Trims
4M: 2 - ½ x 2 ½” x 88 ¾” - Side Front Corner Trims
4N: 2 - ½” x 5 ½” x 78 ½” - Rear Corner Trims
4O: 2 - ½” x 2 ½” x 80” - Side Rear Corner Trims
4P: 2 - ½” x 2 ½” x 78 ½” - Rear Middle Trims
4Q: 2 - ½” x 2 ½” x 7 ½” - Front Middle Trims
Facia
4R: 2 - ½” x 5 ½” x 54 1/8” - Side Facia (Angle Cut Ends)
4S: 4 - ½” x 5 ½” x 50 ½” - Front and Rear Facia - Left/Right
4T: 2 - ½” x 5 ½” x 45 ½” - Front and Rear Facia - Center
4U: 5 - Trim Detail Plates (5 ½” high)
Ridge Boards
4V: 3 - ½” x 4 ½” x 49 ¼” - Roof Ridge Boards
Windows
4W: 2 - Window Inserts 18 1/4”w x 23”h
4X: 2 - Window Trim Kits
1 - Top pc - 24 1/16” Length - Angle Cut Ends
3 - Side/Bottom pcs - 23” Length
Miscellaneous
4Y: 1 - 45 ¼” - Extra Piece of Bevel Wall Siding
- Use if side/rear wall panel siding is damaged or to shim floor or door.
4Z: 1 - 36” - Extra Piece of Lap Siding
- Use if front wall panel siding is damaged
66
67-68
61-65
57-60
43-45
46-47
48-56
Steps
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Page 5
Note: All Trim, Facia, and Bottom Skirting pieces will be positioned rough face out when installed.

S1 - 2 1/2” Screws
S4 - 3” Screws
x 245
x 25
x 195
x 330
S2 - 1 1/4” Screws
N1 - 1 1/2” Finishing Nails
BR1 - Square Drive Bit x 2
Y3 - Black Handle x 2
Y11 - Black Hasp x 1
x 18
SB1 - 3/4” Screws
Black Headed
Ladder
Screw Gun/Drill Tape Measure
Hammer
Level
Pliers
Tools Required (Not Provided)
1/8” Drill Bit
Wood Clamp
Utility Knife
12X4 GardenSaver Shed with Sliding Double Doors HARDWARE PACKAGE
Y35 - Roller
Assembly x 4
Safety Glasses Work Gloves
Safety Equipment Required
(Not Provided)
ST1 - 1 1/2” Torx Screws x 12
S5 - 4” Screws
Y2 - 90° Metal
Bracket (Roof) x 8
x 8
BT2 - Torx Drive Bit x 1
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Page 6

Regular Maintenance & Tips to prolong the life of your shed.
Before/During Assembly:
1.) Paint each face and edge of your plywood floor with a latex exterior paint.
2.) Caulk wall seams if gaps appear.
3.) Caulk around window framing.
4.) Caulk perimeter between floor plywood and bottom wall plate.
5.) Caulk channels in lap siding at the top of your door above the trim, just a drop in each channel.
6.) Caulk edge of door threshold.
7.) Optional: Install a Sill Gasket between floor runners and foundation.
8.) Optional: Install an 8” strip of roofing paper below Cedar Ridge Caps for Cedar Roof Sheds.
Routine Maintenance:
- Routinely check all fasteners are tight (ex. Door Hinges, Nails)
- Brush off dirt from walls.
- Brush off snow from roof regularly.
- Routinely remove needles and leaves from roof.
Painting/Staining
- Your cedar shed, if left untreated, will weather to a silvery grey colour.
- Painting or staining your structure is highly recommended and will prolong the life of your shed.
- You do not need to wait to paint or stain your shed, the wood in your kit has been dried and can be
—stained or painted immediately.
- Consult your local paint store for the best paint or stain for cedar.
- Optional: stain the inside of your shed. (Note: this will remove the fresh cedar smell.)
1. 2. 3.
4. 5. 6.
7.
Sill Gasket
Floor Joists
Floor Runner
Foundation
8.
Floor Plywood
Wall Panel
Small gap between
bevel siding and
window trim
Dab of caulking
Strip of roofing paper over
apex of roof panels
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Page 7

You can find BR1 - Square
Drive Bit for the screws in
with the Hardware Kit Bag.
1. Floor Section
Flush with framing
top/bottom.
Exploded view of all parts necessary to complete
Floor Section. Identify all parts prior to starting.
Note: Floor Footprint is 141 1/2” wide x 45 1/2” deep.
2. Lay out both complete floor joist frames as illustrated. The footprint for the
floor when attached together will be 141 1/2” wide x 45 1/2” deep. Attach
frames together with 6 - 2 1/2” Screws.
Hardware
S1 - 2 1/2” Screws x 16 total
1. Lay out 1A - Floor Frame and two 1B - Floor Joists as illustrated
above. Position the center of each Joist 15” from the outer edge of Floor
Frame. When correctly positioned, attach each Joist with
4 - 2 1/2” Screws (2 per end). You can find the Square Drive Screw
Bit in the Hardware Kit Bag. Complete remaining Floor Frame the
same.
Parts
1A - Floor Joist Frames
(45 1/2” x 70 3/4”) x 2
1B - Floor Joists
(1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 67 3/4”) x 4
Hardware
S1 - 2 1/2” Screws
x 6 total
141 1/2”
45 1/2”
15”
15”
Plywood Floor - 2pcs.
(Part 1D)
Floor Frames - 2pcs.
(Part 1A)
Floor Runners - 2pcs.
(Part 1C)
Concrete Pad
(optional foundation method)
Center Floor
Joists - 4pcs.
(Part 1B)
Floor Runners - 5pcs.
(Part 1CC)
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Page 8

3. Position 1C - Floor Runners - Short on each
side of the completed floor frame. Runners should
be flush with corners but not overhanging. Attach
with 4 - 2 1/2” Screws per Runner.
Parts
1C - Floor Runners - Short
(1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 45 1/2”) x 2
Hardware
S1 - 2 1/2” Screws
x 8 total
4. Align 1CC - Floor Runners - Long evenly spaced as shown above and
flush with the back of the Floor Frame. On the front, Runners will extend 2”
past the Floor Frame to provide support for the Sliding Door Track later in
the Assembly. Attach with 4 - 2 1/2” Screws per Runner.
With Floor Runners attached, carefully flip the floor over and place on your
foundation. Caution - Be careful when laying floor down not to bend or twist
floor. Note: Having a level foundation is critical. Choosing a foundation will
vary between regions. Typical foundations can be concrete pads or patio
stones positioned underneath the floor runners.
5. Position 1D - Plywood Floor on top of completed floor frames.
Plywood will sit slightly inset from outside of floor frame.
Parts
1D - Plywood Floor
(5/8” x 45 3/8” x 70 5/8”) x 2
Note: Plywood is cut slightly
smaller than floor framing.
Keep plywood seams tight.
Parts
1CC - Floor Runners - Long
(1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 47 1/2”) x 5
Hardware
S1 - 2 1/2” Screws
x 20 total
Long Floor Runners overhanging Floor Frame on front.
Floor Runners flush with Floor Frame on back.
Concrete Slab
Foundation
Front
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Page 9

6. With Plywood positioned correctly on floor framing, attach with 1 1/4” Screws.
Use screws every 16” around perimeter of each floor section and 3 screws
through each mid joists.
Hardware
S2 - 1 1/4” Screws
x 40 total (approx.)
Advice: Use chalk line to
mark location of mid
joists for interior screws.
2. Wall Section Exploded view of all parts necessary to
complete the Wall Section. Identify all
parts prior to starting.
Angled Wall
Extenders
- 2pcs. (Part 2G)
Side/Rear Wall
Panels - 5pcs.
(Part 2AA)
Bottom Wall Plates
- 5pcs. (Part 2AB)
Front Wall Panels - 2pcs.
(Part 2BA)
Horizontal Wall Cleats
- 3pcs. (Parts 2J & 2K)
Wall Extenders
- 3pcs. (Part 2H)
Top Triangular
Siding Piece - 2pcs.
(Part 2F)
Front Wall Bottom
Plates - 2pcs.
(Part 2BB)
Interior Door Header
- 1pc. (Part 2E)
Door Headers - 3pcs.
(Parts 2C & 2D)
Wall Extender
Cleats - 3pcs.
(Part 2I)
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Page 10

Bottom Wall Plate
You can find BR1 -
Square Drive Bit for
the screws in with the
Hardware Kit Bag.
7. Carefully lay 2AA - Side/Rear Wall Panels face
down. Position and attach 2AB - Bottom Wall
Plates to bottom of wall studs of each wall panel
with 3 - 2 1/2” Screws. Position so plates are flush
with framing. Complete 4 remaining solid walls.
Parts
2AA - Side/Rear Wall Panels
(45 1/2” wide x 75” high) x 5
2AB - Bottom Wall Plates
(1 5/8” x 2 1/2” x 45 1/2”) x 5
Hardware
S1 - 2 1/2” Screws
x 15 total
Ensure bottom plate
is flush side-to-side
with wall studs
Important: Make sure all walls are aligned in their
upright position. If not, water may leak into your shed.
Unsure if panel is facing up or down?
Recently attached Bottom Plate is on bottom of panel.
Outside 2x3 framing of wall panel should
be positioned flush with the outside of
floor framing when properly aligned.
9. The rear wall panels will sit even with the floor frame and the sidewall panels will be sandwiched
between the front and rear wall panels. The floor plywood may be slightly recessed.
Note: Siding will overhang the floor frame by approximately 3/4”.
8. Starting on one side, position a Solid Wall Panel on top of plywood floor. The Wall Panel bottom framing
will sit flush with the outside of the floor frame. Wall siding will overhang the floor.
Siding overhangs
floor frame by 3/4”
Floor plywood
may be slightly
recessed
Do Not Attach Walls
To Floor until Step 24.
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Page 11

Side Solid Wall
Rear Solid Wall
Be sure that the rear
wall panels fit
between the side wall
panels (sandwiched).
Optional - Caulking
seams will help prevent
moisture from entering
at seam. Caulking not
included in kit.
11. With the corner wall attachment complete, position a second rear wall panel in place so bottom
2x3 wall framing is sitting flush with outside floor joists. Wall siding should overhang floor by
approximately 3/4”. When positioned correctly, attach both side wall panel studs together as per Step 10.
10. Position rear solid wall into place on plywood floor. Butt both vertical wall
studs of side and rear walls together and attach with 3 - 2 1/2” Screws.
Screw at the bottom, middle and top of stud to secure properly.
Note: Drill pilot holes in studs to prevent splitting.
Hardware (Steps 10 - 12)
S1 - 2 1/2” Screws
x12 total
Pilot Hole
first.
Side Wall
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Page 12

Wall panel will
sit flush with
floor framing.
Do Not Attach Walls To
Floor Until Step 24
13. Carefully lay 2BA - Front Wall Panels face down. Position and attach
2BB - Bottom Wall Plates to bottom of wall studs of each wall panel with
3 - 2 1/2” Screws as per Step 7. Complete other remaining Front Wall.
Place Front Walls so wall framing is flush with floor frame and siding
overhangs. Attach with 3 - 2 1/2” Screws per panel as per Steps 10 - 12.
12. Complete remaining side wall attachment as per Steps 10 - 11.
Front of Shed
Parts
2BA - Front Wall Panels
(35” wide x 73” high) x 2
2BB - Bottom Wall Plates
(1 5/8” x 2 1/2” x 35”) x 2
Hardware
S1 - 2 1/2” Screws x 12 total
Ensure bottom plate
is flush side-to-side
with wall studs.
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Page 13

14. Position 2C - Door Header - Short on top
of wall stud so it is flush on the inside with 2x3
wall stud. Attach by screwing down into top wall
framing with 3 - 3” Screws.
Parts (Step 14 - 15)
2C - Door Headers - Short
(2” x 3 1/2” x 26 1/4”) x 2
2D - Door Header - Long
(2” x 3 1/2” x 84”) x 1
Hardware (Step 14 - 15)
S4 - 3” Screws
x 10 total
S2 - 1 1/4” Screws
x 4 total
Step to front
and top.
Align flush
outside with
wall siding.
15. Attach 2C - Door Header - Short to other side. Position and attach 2D - Door Header - Long
between short door headers. The Long Door Header has an aluminum strip attached to the back for added
support. Attach by screwing down into wall framing with 2 - 3” Screws per side. Fasten aluminum strip to
short headers with 2 - 1 1/4” Screws per side.
Aluminum strip on back
of Long Door Header.
Door Header
overhangs
inside wall
framing by 1/2”.
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Page 14

5 1/2”
5 1/2”
Top Siding Pc.
Top Siding Pc. for Angle Wall
can also be installed after Roof
is attached after Step 42.
Side Wall Panel
16. Position 2F - Top Triangular Siding Piece onto
2G - Angle Wall Extender and align as shown above. Attach with
3 - 1 1/2” Finishing Nails to top frame of extender wall. There are
left/right top siding pieces. Use rough surface side out. Place finished
wall extender on side wall panel frame. Complete both sides now.
Note: Bottom siding of wall extender will overhang and cover siding
of side wall.
Parts
2G - Angle Wall Extenders - L/R
(2G - 45 1/2” wide) x 2
2F - Top Triangular Siding Piece
(2F - Left/Right) x 2
Hardware
N1 - 1 1/2” Finishing Nails x 6 total
17. Align wall framing of Angled Wall Extender and Side Wall so they are flush at the front. The siding for
both walls should also align evenly from front to back.
Wall framings
flush.
Siding
lines up.
Sidings will
overlap.
18. With Angled Wall Extender and Side Wall aligned correctly, secure
together from the inside with 4 - 2 1/2” Screws.
Hardware (Steps 18 - 19)
S1 - 2 1/2” Screws x 8 total
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Page 15

20. Place 2H - Extender Walls on top of Door Header so that framing is
aligned with Angle Wall Extender framing in front as shown above.
With framing aligned, attach Extender Walls to Door Header and other
extenders with 4 - 2 1/2” Screws each as shown below.
Parts
2H - Extender Walls
(2H - 45 1/2” wide) x 3
Hardware
S1 - 2 1/2” Screws x 12 total
19. Complete opposite Angled Wall Extender positioning and attachment as per Step 18.
Cleat protects overhanging
siding on upper walls from
damage. Please remove
before installing.
Overhanging
siding.
Protective
cleat Siding overhang
rests in notch.
framing aligned
in front.
Framing flush
along top.
Pilot Hole
first.
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Page 16

21. With Extender Walls attached, position
2I - Extender Wall Cleats in the lower section of
each Extender Wall. Attach with 3 - 2 1/2” Screws
per cleat.
22. Align 2J & 2K - Horizontal Wall Cleats
flush with top of Rear Wall framing. Attach with
3 - 1 1/4” Screws per short cleat and 6 - 1 1/4”
Screws on the long cleat.
Parts
2J - Horizontal Wall Cleat - Long
(3/4” x 3 1/2” x 84”) x 1
2K - Horizontal Wall Cleats - Short
(3/4” x 3 1/2” x 26 1/4”) x 2
Hardware
S2 - 1 1/4” Screws
x 12 total
Flush with top
of wall frame.
Parts
2I - Extender Wall Cleats
(1 1/2” x 2 1/2” x 42 3/8”) x 3
Hardware
S1 - 2 1/2” Screws
x 9 total
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Page 17

142 1/4”
142 1/4”
Advice: Prior to screwing down floor
and installing rafters, take time to
confirm your walls are level, square
and plumb.
Measure diagonal at top and bottom
of walls corner-to-corner. This should
be approximately 142 1/4”. More
importantly, if measurements are not
within 1/4”, your walls are not square.
23. Attach 2E - Interior Door Header as shown above.
Align with top framing of front walls. Attach with
4 - 2 1/2” Screws.
Hardware
S1 - 2 1/2” Screws
x 4 total
Parts
2E - Interior Door Header
(1 1/2” x 3” x 66 1/2”) x 1
66 1/2”
Advice: Use Interior Door Header
to confirm doorway opening is
66 1/2” wide at top and bottom.
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Page 18

3. Rafter and Roof Section
Exploded view of all parts necessary to complete the Rafter and Roof Section. Identify all parts
prior to starting.
Left Roof Panel
(Part 3G)
Right Roof
Panel (Part 3G)
Rear Soffits - L/R
- 2pcs (Part 3D)
Rafters - 9pcs
(Part 3A)
Filler Shingles
- 8pcs. (Part 3I)
Facia Nailing Strips
- 2pcs (Part 3F)
Center Roof
Panel (Part 3H)
Rear Soffit - Center
- 1pc (Part 3E)
Front Soffits - L/R
- 2pcs (Part 3B)
Front Soffit - Center
- 1pcs (Part 3C)
24. To complete Wall Section, attach bottom 2x3 wall plates to plywood floor with
2 - 2 1/2” Screws per wall section. Prior to securing, make sure wall panels are
aligned correctly on the floor. Refer to Step 9. Wall siding should overhang floor
while 2x3 wall plates should sit flush with floor.
Hardware
S1 - 2 1/2” Screws
x 28 total
Bottom Wall
Optional - Caulking seams will help
prevent moisture from entering at
seam. Caulking not included in kit.
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Page 19

25. Locate 3A - Rafters, 3B & 3C - Front Soffits and
3D & 3E - Rear Soffits. Lay out on level ground and
assemble as shown above in Illustrations A through C
below. Attach Soffit Boards flush to end of outside
rafters. Attach Front Soffits with 2 - 1 1/4” Screws per
rafter end. Attach Rear Soffits with 2 - 1 1/4” Screws
per rafter end.
Important: Drill pilot holes in Soffit ends to prevent
splitting. Attach double rafters as illustrated above with
3 - 2 1/2” Screws per rafter/rafter connection.
Rear Soffits
21 3/4”
48” 45 1/2” 48”
Front Soffits
20 1/2”21 3/4” 20 1/2” 21 3/4” 21 3/4”
Rear
Front
141 1/2”
Parts
3A - Rafters
(1 1/2” x 2 1/2” x 54”) x 9
3B - Front Soffits - Sides
(1/2” x 3 1/2” x 48”) x 2
3C - Front Soffit - Center
(1/2” x 3 1/2” x 45 1/2”) x 1
3D - Rear Soffits - Sides
(1/2” x 3 1/2” x 48”) x 2
3E - Rear Soffit - Center
(1/2” x 3 1/2” x 45 1/2”) x 1
Hardware
S1 - 2 1/2” Screws
x 24 total
S2 - 1 1/4” Screws
x 18 total
A. B.
Rear Soffit
C.
Screw double
rafters together with
3 - 2 1/2” Screws.
Screw Rear Soffits to
Rafters with 2 - 1 1/4”
Screws per rafter end.
Note: We recommend you drill a 1/8” pilot hole for each screw, to avoid
splitting wood. The hole depth should be equal to 3/4 the length of screw.
Front Soffit
Rear Soffit
Screw Front Soffits to
Rafters with 2 - 1 1/4”
Screws per rafter end.
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Page 20