Osburn Everest OB04015 User manual

READ AND KEEP THIS MANUAL FOR REFERENCE
45850A
Printed in Canada 10-08-2017
INSTALLATION AND OPERATION MANUAL
Everest
(OB04015 model)
CSA B415.1-10
CERTIFIED WOOD FIREPLACE
Listed to standard ULC-S610
by an accredited laboratory
www.osburn-mfg.com
Stove Builder International Inc.
250, rue de Copenhague, St-Augustin-de-Desmaures (Quebec) Canada G3A 2H3
Customer service: 418-908-8002 E-mail: [e-mail]
This manual is available for free download on the manufacturer’s web site. It is a
copyrighted document. Resale is strictly prohibited. The manufacturer may update
this manual from time to time and cannot be responsible for problems, injuries, or
damages arising out of the use of information contained in any manual obtained
from unauthorized sources.

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THANK YOU FOR CHOOSING THIS OSBURN WOOD FIREPLACE
As one of North America’s largest and most respected wood stove and fireplace manufacturers,
Stove Builder International takes pride in the quality and performance of all its products. We want
to help you get maximum satisfaction as you use this product.
In the pages that follow you will find general advice on wood heating, detailed instructions for a
safe and effective installation, and guidance on how to get the best performance from this
fireplace as you build and maintain fires, and maintain your wood heating system.
We recommend that our wood-burning hearth products be installed and serviced by professionals
who are certified in Canada by WETT (Wood Energy Technology Transfer) or in Quebec by APC
(Association des Professionnels du Chauffage).
Congratulations on making a wise purchase.
If this fireplace is not properly installed, combustible materials near it may overheat. To reduce
the risk of fire, follow the installation instructions in this manual exactly. Contact local building
or fire officials about restrictions and installation inspection requirements in your area.
Please read this entire manual before you install and use your new fireplace. You may need to
get a building permit for the installation of this fireplace and the chimney that it is connected to.
Consult your municipal building department or fire department before installation. We
recommend that you also inform your home insurance company to find out if the installation
will affect your policy.
This heating unit is designed to serve as a supplementary heat source. We recommend that a
primary heat source also be available in the home. The manufacturer cannot be responsible for
costs associated with the use of another heating system.
CAUTION: Do not attempt to modify or alter the construction of the fireplace or its components.
Any modification or alteration of construction may void the warranty, listings and approval of this
system. In that case, Stove Builder International (SBI) will not be responsible for damages. Install
the fireplace only as described in these instructions.

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Table of content
PART A - OPERATION AND MAINTENANCE ............................................ 6
1Safety Information........................................................................... 6
1.1 Summary of Cautions and Warnings......................................................................6
2General Information on Everest ....................................................... 8
2.1 Appliance performance(1) ....................................................................................... 8
2.1 General Features...................................................................................................9
2.2 The Benefits of Low Emissions and High Efficiency............................................. 12
2.3 The SBI Commitment to You and the Environment.............................................. 13
2.3.1 What is Your New Fireplace Made Of?............................................................. 13
3Fuel ............................................................................................... 14
3.1 Materials That Should Not be Burned .................................................................. 14
3.2 How to Prepare or Buy Good Firewood ............................................................... 14
3.2.1 What is Good Firewood? .................................................................................. 14
3.2.2 Tree Species..................................................................................................... 14
3.2.3 Log Length........................................................................................................ 15
3.2.4 Piece Size......................................................................................................... 15
3.2.5 How to Dry Firewood ........................................................................................ 15
3.2.6 Judging Firewood Moisture Content ................................................................. 16
3.3 Manufactured Logs .............................................................................................. 17
4Operating Your Fireplace ............................................................... 17
4.1 Your First Fires..................................................................................................... 17
4.2 Lighting Fires........................................................................................................ 17
4.2.1 Conventional Fire Starting ................................................................................ 18
4.2.2 The Top Down Fire........................................................................................... 18
4.2.3 Two Parallel Logs ............................................................................................. 18
4.2.4 Using Fire Starters............................................................................................ 19
4.3 Maintaining Wood Fires ....................................................................................... 19
4.3.1 General Advice ................................................................................................. 19
4.3.2 Ash Removal..................................................................................................... 19
4.3.3 Raking Charcoal ............................................................................................... 20
4.3.4 Firing Each New Load Hot................................................................................ 20
4.3.5 Turning Down the Air Supply ............................................................................ 21
4.3.6 Using the Blower............................................................................................... 22
4.3.7 Building Different Fires for Different Needs....................................................... 23

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5Maintaining Your Wood Heating System ........................................ 25
5.1 Fireplace Maintenance......................................................................................... 25
5.1.1 Plated Finish Maintenance................................................................................ 25
5.1.2 Glass Door Cleaning......................................................................................... 25
5.1.3 Door Adjustment............................................................................................... 26
5.1.4 Replacing the Door Gasket............................................................................... 27
5.1.5 Replacing the Glass.......................................................................................... 28
5.1.6 Replacing the Glass Gasket ............................................................................. 28
5.1.7 Cleaning and Painting the Fireplace................................................................. 29
5.2 Chimney and Chimney Liner Maintenance .......................................................... 29
5.2.1 Why Chimney Cleaning is Necessary............................................................... 29
5.2.2 How Often Should You Clean the Chimney?.................................................... 30
5.2.3 Cleaning the Chimney....................................................................................... 31
5.2.4 Fire Baffle Removal Prior to Cleaning the Chimney.......................................... 32
5.2.5 Chimney Fire..................................................................................................... 32
PART B –INSTALLATION ..................................................................... 33
6Safety Information......................................................................... 33
6.1 Summary of Installation Cautions and Warnings.................................................. 33
6.2 Regulations Covering Fireplace Installation......................................................... 34
6.3 Fireplace Installation ............................................................................................ 34
6.3.1 Locating the Certification Label......................................................................... 34
6.3.2 Locating the Everest......................................................................................... 34
6.3.3 Clearances to Combustible Material................................................................. 35
6.3.4 Hearth Extension Construction Configuration................................................... 35
6.3.5 Floor Protection................................................................................................. 38
6.3.6 Framing, Facing, Mantel, and Combustible Shelf ............................................. 39
7The Venting System ....................................................................... 47
7.1 General ................................................................................................................ 47
7.2 Suitable Chimneys............................................................................................... 47
7.3 Minimum Chimney Height.................................................................................... 47
7.4 The Relationship Between the Chimney and the House...................................... 47
7.4.1 Why the chimney should penetrate the highest heated space.......................... 47
7.5 Chimney Installation Notes................................................................................... 48
7.6 Chimney Installation Instructions.......................................................................... 50
7.6.1 recommended measurEMents.......................................................................... 50
7.6.2 Typical installations........................................................................................... 51
7.6.3 Installation Instructions ..................................................................................... 52
7.6.4 Offset Chimney Installation............................................................................... 54

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7.7 Angled Wall Radiation Shield............................................................................... 57
7.8 Chimney Support Installation ............................................................................... 58
7.8.1 Universal Roof Support..................................................................................... 58
7.8.2 Universal Offset Support................................................................................... 58
7.9 Installation Instructions for Masonry Application .................................................. 58
7.10 Supply of Combustion Air..................................................................................... 60
7.10.1 Air Supply in Conventional Houses................................................................... 60
APPENDIX 1: Installing the Door Overlay............................................. 61
APPENDIX 2 - Blower Maintenance or Replacement............................ 62
APPENDIX 3 - Refractory Slabs Replacement ....................................... 66
APPENDIX 4 - Installation of Secondary Air Tubes and Baffle ............... 67
APPENDIX 5: Fire-Screen Installation (Optional) .................................. 69
APPENDIX 6: Installing the Fresh Air Intake Kit (Optional) ................... 70
APPENDIX 7: Optional Heat Distribution System ................................. 73
APPENDIX 8: Optional Hot Air Gravity Distribution.............................. 74
APPENDIX 9: Exploded Diagram and Parts List..................................... 81
OSBURN LIMITED LIFETIME WARRANTY.............................................. 84
REGISTER YOUR WARRANTY ONLINE
To receive full warranty coverage, you will need to show evidence of the
date you purchased your stove. Keep your sales invoice. We also recommend
that you register your warranty online at:
https://www.osburn-mfg.com/en/warranty/warranty-registration/
Registering your warranty online will help us to quickly track the information
we need about your stove.

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PART A - OPERATION AND MAINTENANCE
See Part B for installation instructions.
1SAFETY INFORMATION
1.1 SUMMARY OF CAUTIONS AND WARNINGS
•HOT WHILE IN OPERATION, KEEP CHILDREN, CLOTHING AND FURNITURE AWAY. CONTACT MAY
CAUSE SKIN BURNS. GLOVES MAY BE NEEDED FOR FIREPLACE OPERATION.
•USING A FIREPLACE WITH CRACKED OR BROKEN COMPONENTS, SUCH AS GLASS OR FIREBRICKS OR
BAFFLES MAY PRODUCE AN UNSAFE CONDITION AND MAY DAMAGE THE FIREPLACE.
•OPERATE ONLY WITH DOOR FULLY OPEN OR FULLY CLOSED. IF DOOR IS LEFT PARTLY OPEN, GAS AND
FLAME MAY BE DRAWN OUT OF THE OPENING, CREATING RISKS FROM BOTH FIRE AND SMOKE.
•OPEN THE AIR CONTROL FULLY BEFORE OPENING THE LOADING DOOR.
•DO NOT INSTALL THE FIREPLACE OUTDOORS.
•THE FIREPLACE AND CHIMNEY MUST BE IN AN ENCLOSURE UP TO THE ATTIC.
•NEVER USE GASOLINE, LANTERN FUEL (NAPHTHA), FUEL OIL, MOTOR OIL, KEROSENE, CHARCOAL
LIGHTER FLUID, OR SIMILAR LIQUIDS OR AEROSOLS TO START A FIRE IN THIS FIREPLACE. KEEP ALL
SUCH LIQUIDS OR AEROSOLS WELL AWAY FROM THE FIREPLACE WHILE IT IS IN USE.
•DO NOT STORE FUEL WITHIN HEATER MINIMUM INSTALLATION CLEARANCES.
•BURN ONLY SEASONED NATURAL FIREWOOD.
•DO NOT BURN:
oGARBAGE OF ANY KIND,
oCOAL OR CHARCOAL,
oTREATED, PAINTED OR COATED WOOD,
oPLYWOOD OR PARTICLE BOARD,
oFINE PAPER, COLORED PAPER OR CARDBOARD,
oSALT WATER DRIFTWOOD,
oMANUFACTURED LOGS CONTAINING WAX OR CHEMICAL ADDITIVES,
oRAILROAD TIES OR
oLIQUIDS SUCH AS KEROSENE OR DIESEL FUEL TO START A FIRE.
•THIS APPLIANCE SHOULD BE MAINTAINED AND OPERATED AT ALL TIMES IN ACCORDANCE WITH
THESE INSTRUCTIONS.
•DO NOT ELEVATE THE FIRE BY MEANS OF GRATES, IRONS OR OTHER MEANS.
•AN OUTDOOR AIR SUPPLY IS NOT REQUIRED IF A CARBON MONOXIDE (CO) DETECTOR/ALARM IS
LOCATED IN THE ROOM IN WHICH THE FIREPLACE IS INSTALLED. THE CO DETECTOR WILL PROVIDE
WARNING IF FOR ANY REASON THE WOOD FIREPLACE FAILS TO FUNCTION CORRECTLY. IF YOU ARE
REQUIRED TO INSTALL AN OUTDOOR AIR SUPPLY, WE RECOMMEND THAT YOU ALSO INSTALL A CO
DETECTOR/ALARM TO PROVIDE WARNING IF SMOKE SPILLAGE FROM THE FIREPLACE OCCURS.
CAUTION: KEEP COMBUSTIBLE MATERIALS AT LEAST 48 INCHES AWAY FROM THE FRONT OF THE
FIREPLACE OPENING.

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CAUTION: DO NOT USE A FIREPLACE INSERT AND OTHER PRODUCTS NOT SPECIFIED FOR USE WITH
THIS FIREPLACE.
CAUTION: DO NOT OBSTRUCT AIR INLETS. THIS FIREPLACE NEEDS AIR FOR ITS GOOD OPERATION.
CAUTION: DO NOT BLOCK THE HOT AIR VENTS TO THE FIREPLACE AS THIS WILL CAUSE THE
FIREPLACE TO OVERHEAT.
CAUTION: DO NOT INSTALL IN A MOBILE HOME.
WARNING: DO NOT USE MATERIALS OTHER THAN THOSE LISTED IN THE REPLACEMENT PARTS
SECTION DURING INSTALLATION AS THEY MAY BE SAFETY HAZARDS AND A FIRE COULD
RESULT.
WARNING: THIS FIREPLACE HAS NOT BEEN TESTED WITH AN UNVENTED OR VENTED GAS LOG SET.
TO REDUCE THE RISK OF FIRE OR INJURY, DO NOT INSTALL AN UNVENTED GAS LOG SET
INTO THIS FIREPLACE.
PLEASE NOTE THAT THE PICTURES SHOWN IN THIS MANUAL ARE GENERIC AND MAY NOT
MATCH EXACTLY THE LOOK OF YOUR FIREPLACE.

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2GENERAL INFORMATION ON EVEREST
2.1 APPLIANCE PERFORMANCE(1)
Fuel type
Dry cordwood
Recommended heating area[*]
750 to 2200 sq. ft. (70 to 205 m²)
Firebox volume
2.9 cu.ft. (0.082 m³)
Maximum burn time[*]
9 h
Maximum heat output(2) (dry cordwood)
80,000 BTU/h (23.5 kW)
Overall heat output rate (min. to max.)(2)(3)
13,622 BTU/h to 28,629 BTU/h (4.0 kW to
8.4 kW)
Average overall efficiency(3) - Dry cordwood
66.7% (HHV(4))
71.9% (LHV(5))
Optimum efficiency(2)(6)
73.9 %
Average particulate emissions rate(7)
2.3 g/h (CSA B415.1-10)
Average CO(8)
91.6 g/h (CSA B415.1-10)
[*] Recommended heating area and maximum burn time may vary subject to location in home, chimney
draft, heat loss factors, climate, fuel type and other variables. The recommended heated area for a given
appliance is defined by the manufacturer as its capacity to maintain a minimum acceptable temperature
in the designated area in case of a power failure.
(1) Values are as measured per test method, except for the recommended heating area, firebox volume,
maximum burn time and maximum heat output.
(2) The maximum heat output (dry cordwood) is based on a loading density varying between 15 lb/ft3and 20
lb/ft3. Other performances are based on a fuel load prescribed by the standard. The specified loading
density varies between 7 lb/ft3and 12 lb/ft3. The moisture content is between 19% and 25%.
(3) As measured per CSA B415.1-10 stack loss method.
(4) Higher Heating Value of the fuel.
(5) Lower Heating Value of the fuel.
(6) Optimum overall efficiency at a specific burn rate (LHV).
(7) This appliance is officially tested and certified by an independent agency.
(8) Carbon monoxide.

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2.1 GENERAL FEATURES
Maximum log length
16 po (406 mm) east-west*
Flue outlet diameter
6 in (152 mm)
Chimney diameter
6 in (152 mm)
Type of chimney
CAN/ULC S604 (1700 °F)
CAN/ULC S629 (2100 °F)
Baffle material
Ceramic board
Approved for alcove installation
Not approved
Approved for mobile home
installation‡
Not approved
Shipping weight (without option)
437 lb (198 kg)
Type of door
Double, glass with cast iron frame
Type of glass
Ceramic glass
Blower
Included (up to 144 CFM)
Particulate emission standard
CSA B415.1-10
Canadian standard (safety)
ULC-S610
** East-west: through the door you see the longitudinal sides of the logs; north-south: through the door you
see the tips of the logs.
‡Mobile homes are buildings made (or substantially made) in a factory and transported to another
location. They include both homes built on fixed wheels and those transported on temporary
wheels/axles and set on a permanent foundation. Travel trailers and recreational vehicles not intended
to be permanently located on site are considered RV's and are not considered mobile homes. Also, a
house for which the walls and other components would be manufactured in a factory to be then
assembled on site would not be considered a manufactured home since it would not be substantially
made in a factory.

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A : Fresh air inlet (4")
G : Hot air gravity outlet (8")
H : Forced air distribution outlet (6")

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ZONE HEATING AND HOW TO MAKE IT WORK FOR YOU
Your new Everest wood fireplace is a space heater, which means it is intended to heat the area it is
installed in, as well as spaces that connect to that area, although to a lower temperature. This is
called zone heating and it is an increasingly popular way to heat homes or spaces within homes.
Zone heating can be used to supplement another heating system by heating a specific space
within a home, such as a basement family room or an addition that lacks another heat source.
Houses of moderate size and relatively new construction can be heated with a properly sized and
located wood fireplace. Whole house zone heating works best when the fireplace is in the part of
the house where the family spends most of its time. This is normally the main living area where
the kitchen, dining and living rooms are located. By locating the fireplace in this area, you will get
the maximum benefit of the heat it produces and will achieve the highest possible heating
efficiency and comfort. The space where you spend most of your time will be warmest, while
bedrooms and basement (if there is one) will stay cooler. In this way, you will burn less wood than
with other forms of heating.
Although the fireplace may be able to heat the main living areas of your house to an adequate
temperature, we strongly recommend that you also have a conventional oil, gas or electric heating
system to provide backup heating.
Your success with zone heating will depend on several factors, including the correct sizing and
location of the fireplace, the size, layout and age of your home and your climate zone. Three-
season vacation homes can usually be heated with smaller fireplaces than houses that are heated
all winter.
2.2 THE BENEFITS OF LOW EMISSIONS AND HIGH EFFICIENCY
The low smoke emissions produced by the special features inside the Everest firebox mean that
your household will release up to 90% less smoke into the outside environment than if you used
an older conventional stove. But there is more to the emission control technologies than
protecting the environment.
The smoke released from wood when it is heated contains about half of the energy content of the
fuel. By burning the wood completely, your fireplace releases all the heat energy from the wood
instead of wasting it as smoke up the chimney. Also, the features inside the firebox allow you to
reduce the air supply to control heat output, while maintaining clean and efficient flaming
combustion, which boosts the efficient delivery of heat to your home.
The emission control and advanced combustion features of your fireplace can only work properly
if your fuel is in the correct moisture content range of 15% to 20%. See Section 3: Fuel of this
manual for suggestions on preparing fuelwood and judging its moisture.

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2.3 THE SBI COMMITMENT TO YOU AND THE ENVIRONMENT
The SBI team is committed to protecting the environment, so we do everything we can to use only
materials in our products that will have no lasting negative impact on the environment.
2.3.1 WHAT IS YOUR NEW FIREPLACE MADE OF?
The body of your fireplace, which is most of its weight, is carbon steel. Should it ever become
necessary many years in the future, almost the entire fireplace can be recycled into new products,
thus eliminating the need to mine new materials.
The paint coating on your fireplace is very thin. Its VOC content (Volatile Organic Compounds) is
very low. VOCs can be responsible for smog, so all the paint used during the manufacturing
process meets the latest air quality requirements regarding VOC reduction or elimination.
The air tubes are stainless steel, which can also be recycled.
Moulded refractory bricks are mainly composed of silicon dioxide, also known as silica, a product
processed from a mined mineral. It is most commonly found in nature in the form of sand and
clay. Disposal at a landfill is recommended. The steel mesh contained in some refractory bricks can
be recycled.
The door and glass gaskets are fibreglass which is spun from melted sand. Black gaskets have been
dipped into a solvent-free solution. Disposal at a landfill is recommended.
The door glass is a 5 mm thick ceramic material that contains no toxic chemicals. It is made of
natural raw materials such as sand and quartz that are combined in such a way to form a high
temperature glass. Ceramic glass cannot be recycled in the same way as normal glass, so it should
not be disposed of with your regular household products. Disposal at a landfill is recommended.

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3FUEL
3.1 MATERIALS THAT SHOULD NOT BE BURNED
•GARBAGE OF ANY KIND,
•COAL OR CHARCOAL,
•TREATED, PAINTED OR COATED WOOD,
•PLYWOOD OR PARTICLE BOARD,
•FINE PAPER, COLORED PAPER OR CARDBOARD,
•SALT WATER DRIFTWOOD,
•MANUFACTURED LOGS CONTAINING WAX OR CHEMICAL ADDITIVES,
•RAILROAD TIES,
•LIQUIDS SUCH AS KEROSENE OR DIESEL FUEL TO START A FIRE.
3.2 HOW TO PREPARE OR BUY GOOD FIREWOOD
3.2.1 WHAT IS GOOD FIREWOOD?
Good firewood has been cut to the correct length for the fireplace, split to a range of sizes and
stacked in the open until its moisture content is reduced to 15 to 20 per cent.
3.2.2 TREE SPECIES
The tree species the firewood is produced from is less important than its moisture content. The
main difference in firewood from various tree species is the density of the wood. Hardwoods are
denser than softwoods. People who live in the coldest regions of North America usually have only
spruce, birch and poplar, other low-density species to burn and yet they can heat their homes
successfully.
Homeowners with access to both hardwood and softwood fuel sometimes use both types for
different purposes. For example, softer woods make good fuel for relatively mild weather in spring
and fall because they light quickly and produce less heat Softwoods are not as dense as
hardwoods so a given volume of wood contains less energy. Using softwoods avoids overheating
the house, which can be a common problem with wood heating in moderate weather. Harder
woods are best for colder winter weather when more heat and longer burn cycles are desirable.
Note that hardwood trees like oak, maple, ash and beech are slower growing and longer lived than
softer woods like poplar and birch. That makes hardwood trees more valuable. The advice that
only hardwoods are good to burn is outdated. Old, leaky cast iron stoves wouldn’t hold a fire
overnight unless they were fed large pieces of hardwood. That is no longer true. You can
successfully heat your home by using the less desirable tree species and give the forest a break at
the same time.

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3.2.3 LOG LENGTH
Logs should be cut at least 1” (25 mm) shorter than the firebox so
they fit in easily. Pieces that are even slightly too long make loading
the fireplace very difficult. The most common standard length of
firewood is 16” (400 mm).
The pieces should be a consistent length, with a maximum of 1” (25
mm) variation from piece to piece.
3.2.4 PIECE SIZE
Firewood dries more quickly when it is split. Large unsplit rounds can take years to dry enough to
burn. Even when dried, unsplit logs are difficult to ignite because they don’t have the sharp edges
where the flames first catch. Logs as small as 3” (75 mm) should be split to encourage drying.
Wood should be split to a range of sizes, from about 3” to 6” (75 mm to 150 mm) in cross section.
Having a range of sizes makes starting and rekindling fires much easier. Often, the firewood
purchased from commercial suppliers is not split finely enough for convenient stoking. It is
sometimes advisable to resplit the wood before stacking to dry.
3.2.5 HOW TO DRY FIREWOOD
Firewood that is not dry enough to burn is the
cause of most complaints about wood
fireplaces. Continually burning green or
unseasoned wood produces more creosote and
involves lack of heat and dirty glass door. See
Section 5: Maintaining your wood heating
system for concerns about creosote.

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Here are some things to consider in estimating drying time:
•firewood takes a long time to dry
•firewood bought from a dealer is rarely dry enough to burn, so it is advisable to buy the wood
in spring and dry it yourself
•drying happens faster in dry weather than in damp, maritime climates
•drying happens faster in warm summer weather than in winter weather
•small pieces dry more quickly than large pieces
•split pieces dry more quickly than non-split rounds
•softwoods take less time to dry than hardwoods
•softwoods like pine, spruce, and poplar/aspen can be dry enough to burn after being stacked
in the open for only the summer months
•hardwoods like oak, maple and ash can take one, or even two years to dry fully, especially if
the pieces are big
•firewood dries more quickly when stacked in the open where it is exposed to sun and wind; it
takes much longer to dry when stacked in a wood shed
•firewood that is ready to burn has a moisture content between 15 and 20% by weight and will
allow your fireplace to produce its highest possible efficiency
3.2.6 JUDGING FIREWOOD MOISTURE CONTENT
You can find out if some firewood is dry enough to burn by using these guidelines:
•cracks form at the ends of logs as they dry
•as it dries in the sun, the wood turns from white or cream colored to grey or yellow,
•bang two pieces of wood together; seasoned wood sounds hollow and wet wood sounds dull,
•dry wood is much lighter in weight than wet wood,
•split a piece, and if the fresh face feels warm and dry it is dry enough to burn; if it feels damp,
it is too wet,
•burn a piece; wet wood hisses and sizzles in the fire and dry wood does not.
You could buy a wood moisture meter to test
your firewood.

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3.3 MANUFACTURED LOGS
Do not burn manufactured logs made of wax impregnated
sawdust or logs with any chemical additives. Manufactured
logs made of 100% compressed sawdust can be burned, but
be careful to burn too much of these logs at the same time.
Start with one manufactured log and see how the fireplace
reacts. Never use more than two manufactured logs at a
time.
Warning: Do not poke or stir the logs while they are burning. Use only fire logs that have
been tested for use in fireplaces (see ULC/ORD-C127, composite fire logs) and prior
to use, refer to fire log warnings and caution markings on packaging.
4OPERATING YOUR FIREPLACE
4.1 YOUR FIRST FIRES
Two things will happen as you burn your first few fires; the paint cures and the internal
components of the fireplace are conditioned.
As the paint cures, some of the chemicals vaporize. The vapors are not poisonous, but they do
smell bad. Fresh paint fumes can also cause false alarms in smoke detectors. So, when you first
light your fireplace, be prepared by opening doors or windows to ventilate the house. As you burn
hotter and hotter fires, more of the painted surfaces reach the curing temperature of the paint.
The smell of curing paint does not disappear until you have burned one or two very hot fires.
Burn one or two small fires to begin the curing and conditioning process. Then build bigger and
hotter fires until there is no longer any paint smell from the fireplace. Once the paint smell
disappears, your fireplace is ready for serious heating.
4.2 LIGHTING FIRES
Each person who heats with wood develops their own favorite way to light fires. Whatever
method you choose, your goal should be to get a hot fire burning quickly. A fire that starts fast
produces less smoke and deposits less creosote in the chimney. Here are three popular and
effective ways to start wood fires.

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4.2.1 CONVENTIONAL FIRE STARTING
The conventional way to build a wood fire is to
bunch up 5 to 10 sheets of plain newspaper and
place them in the firebox. Next, place 10 or so
pieces of fine kindling on the newspaper. This
kindling should be very thin; less than 1” (25 mm).
Next, place some larger kindling pieces on the fine
kindling. Open the air control fully and light the
newspaper. If you have a tall, straight venting
system you should be able to close the door
immediately and the fire will ignite. Once the fire
has ignited, close the door and leave the air
control fully open.
A conventional kindling fire with paper
under finely split wood.
DO NOT LEAVE THE FIREPLACE UNATTENDED WHEN THE DOOR IS SLIGHTLY OPEN. ALWAYS
CLOSE AND LATCH THE DOOR AFTER THE FIRE IGNITES.
After the kindling fire has mostly burned, you can add standard firewood pieces until you have a
fire of the right size for the conditions.
CAUTION: PLACE THE WOOD LOGS FAR ENOUGH FROM THE GLASS TO ALLOW PROPER PRIMARY
AIRFLOW.
4.2.2 THE TOP DOWN FIRE
The top down fire starting method solves two problems with the conventional method: first, it
does not collapse and smother itself as it burns; and second, it is not necessary to build up the fire
gradually because the firebox is loaded before the fire is lit. A top down fire can provide up to two
hours of heating or more. The top down method only works properly if the wood is well-seasoned.
Start by placing three or four full-sized split pieces of dry firewood in the firebox. Next, place 4 or 5
more finely split pieces of firewood (2” to 3” [50 mm to 75 mm] in dia.) on the base logs at right
angles (log cabin style). Now place about 10 pieces of finely split kindling on the second layer at
right angles.
The fire is topped with about 5 sheets of newspaper. You can just bunch them up and stuff them
in between the kindling and the underside of the baffle. Or you can make newspaper knots by
rolling up single sheets corner to corner and tying a knot in them. The advantage of knots is that
they don’t roll off the fire as they burn. Light the newspaper and watch as the fire burns from top
to bottom.
4.2.3 TWO PARALLEL LOGS
Place two spit logs in the firebox. Place a few sheets of twisted newspaper between the logs. Now
place some fine kindling across the two logs and some larger kindling across those, log cabin style.
Light the newspaper.

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4.2.4 USING FIRE STARTERS
Many people like to use commercial fire starters instead of newspaper. Some of these starters are
made of sawdust and wax and others are specialized flammable solid chemicals. Follow the
package directions for use.
Gel starter may be used but only if there are no hot embers present. Use only in a cold firebox to
start a fire.
DO NOT USE FLAMMABLE LIQUIDS SUCH AS GASOLINE, NAPHTHA, FUEL OIL, MOTOR OIL, OR
AEROSOLS TO START OR REKINDLE THE FIRE.
4.3 MAINTAINING WOOD FIRES
4.3.1 GENERAL ADVICE
Wood heating with a space heater is very different than other forms of heating. There will be
variations in the temperature in different parts of the house and there will be variations in
temperature throughout the day and night. This is normal, and for experienced wood burners
these are advantages of zone heating with wood.
Do not expect steady heat output from your fireplace. It is normal for its surface temperature to
rise after a new load of wood is ignited and for its temperature to gradually decline as the fire
progresses. This rising and falling of temperature can be matched to your household routines. For
example, the area temperature can be cooler when you are active, such as when doing housework
or cooking, and it can be warmer when you are inactive, such as when reading or watching
television.
Wood burns best in cycles. A cycle starts when a new load of wood is ignited by hot coals and ends
when that load has been consumed down to a bed of charcoal about the same size as it was when
the wood was loaded. Do not attempt to produce a steady heat output by placing a single log on
the fire at regular intervals. Always place at least three, and preferably more, pieces on the fire at
a time so that the heat radiated from one piece helps to ignite the pieces next to it. Each load of
wood should provide several hours of heating. The size of each load can be matched to the
amount of heat needed.
When you burn in cycles, you rarely need to open the fireplace’s loading door while the wood is
flaming. This is an advantage because there is more chance that smoke will leak from the fireplace
when the door is opened as a full fire is burning.
IF YOU MUST OPEN THE DOOR WHILE THE FUEL IS FLAMING, OPEN THE AIR CONTROL FULLY FOR
A FEW MINUTES, THEN UNLATCH AND OPEN THE DOOR SLOWLY.
4.3.2 ASH REMOVAL
Ash should be removed from the firebox every two or three days of full-time heating. Do not let
the ash build up in the firebox because it will interfere with proper fire management.
The best time to remove ash is after an overnight fire when the fireplace is relatively cool, but
there is still some chimney draft to draw the ash dust into the fireplace and prevent it from
coming into the room.

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After ashes have been removed from the fireplace and placed in a tightly covered metal container,
they should be taken outside immediately. The closed container of ashes should be placed on a
non-combustible floor or on the ground well away from all combustible materials pending final
disposal. Ashes normally contain some live charcoal that can stay hot for several days. If the ashes
are disposed of by burial in soil or otherwise locally dispersed, they should be retained in a closed
container until all cinders have thoroughly cooled. Other waste should not be placed in this
container.
NEVER STORE ASHES INDOORS OR IN A NON-METALLIC CONTAINER OR ON A WOODEN DECK.
4.3.3 RAKING CHARCOAL
Rekindle the fire when you notice that the room temperature has fallen. You will find most of the
remaining charcoal at the back of the firebox, furthest from the door. Rake these coals towards
the door before loading. There are two reasons for this raking of the coals. First, it concentrates
them near where most of the combustion air enters the firebox and where they can ignite the new
load quickly, and second, the charcoal will not be smothered by the new load of wood. If you were
to simply spread the charcoal out, the new load will smoulder for a long time before igniting.
Remove ash first, and then rake charcoal towards the front of the firebox before loading so that it
will ignite the new load.
4.3.4 FIRING EACH NEW LOAD HOT
Place the new load of wood on and behind the charcoal, and not too close to the glass. Close the
door and open the air control fully. Leave the air control fully open until the firebox is full of
flames, the wood has charred to black and its edges are glowing red. Firing each load of wood hot
accomplishes a few things:
•drives the surface moisture from the wood,
•creates a layer of char on the wood, which slows down its release of smoke,
•heats the firebox components so they reflect heat back to the fire, and
•heats the chimney so it can produce strong, steady draft for the rest of the cycle.
Although it is important to fire each new load hot to prepare for a clean burn, do not allow the fire
to burn at full intensity for more than a few minutes.
DO NOT LEAVE THE FIREPLACE UNATTENDED WHILE A NEW LOAD IS BEING FIRED HOT.
DO NOT OVERFIRE.
When you burn a new load of wood hot to heat up the wood, the fireplace and the chimney, the
result will be a surge of heat from the fireplace. This heat surge is welcome when the room
temperature is a little lower than desirable, but not welcome if the space is already warm.