Osburn MATRIX User manual

READ AND KEEP THIS MANUAL FOR REFERENCE
45593A
Printed in Canada 11-06-2014
INSTALLATION AND OPE
RATION MANUAL
MATRIX
Insert
US EN IRONMENTAL PROTECTION
AGENCY PHASE II CERTIFIED
WOOD INSERT
Safety tested according to ULC S628,
UL 737 and UL 1482 Standards
by Intertek Testing Services
www.osburn-m g.com
Stove Builder International Inc.
250, rue de Copenhague, St-Augustin-de-Desmaures (Quebec) Canada G3A 2H3
Tel: [phone] Fax: [phone]
This manual is available for free download on the manufacturer’s web site. It is a copyrighted
document. Re-sale is strictly prohibited. The manufacturer may update this manual from time to
time and cannot be responsible for problems, injuries, or damages arising out of the use of
information contained in any manual obtained from unauthorized sources.

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THANK YOU FOR CHOOSING THIS OSBURN WOOD INSERT
As one of North America’s largest and most respected wood stove and fireplace manufacturers,
Stove Builder International takes pride in the quality and performance of all its products. We want
to help you get maximum satisfaction as you use this product.
In the pages that follow you will find general advice on wood heating, detailed instructions for safe
and effective installation, and guidance on how to get the best performance from this insert as you
build and maintain fires, and maintain your wood heating system.
We recommend that our wood burning hearth products be installed and serviced by professionals
who are certified in the United States by NFI (National Fireplace Institute
®
) or in Canada by WETT
(Wood Energy Technology Transfer) or in Quebec by APC (Association des Professionnels du
Chauffage).
Congratulations on making a wise purchase.
I this insert is not properly installed, combustible materials near it may overheat. To reduce the
risk o ire, ollow the installation instructions in this manual exactly. Contact local building or
ire o icials about restrictions and installation inspection requirements in your area.
Please read this entire manual be ore you install and use your new insert. You may need to get a
building permit or the installation o this insert and the chimney that it is connected to. Consult
your municipal building department or ire department be ore installation. We recommend that
you also in orm your home insurance company to ind out i the installation will a ect your
policy.
This heating unit is designed to serve as a supplementary heat source. We recommend that a
primary heat source also be available in the home. The manu acturer cannot be responsible or
costs associated with the use o another heating system.
REGISTER YOUR WARRANTY ONLINE
To receive full warranty coverage, you will need to show evidence of the
date you purchased your insert. Keep your sales invoice. We also
recommend that you register your warranty online at:
http://www.osburn-mfg.com/warranty-registration.aspx
Registering your warranty online will help us to quickly track the
information we need about your insert.

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Table o content
PART A - OPERATION AND MAINTENANCE .............................................. 6
1 Sa ety In ormation ............................................................................. 6
1.1 Summary of Operation and Maintenance Cautions and Warnings ...................................... 6
2 General In ormation .......................................................................... 8
2.1 Matrix Insert Specifications ................................................................................................... 8
2.2 Zone Heating and How to Make it Work for You ................................................................ 10
2.3 The Benefits of Low Emissions and High Efficiency ............................................................. 11
2.4 The SBI Commitment to You and the Environment ............................................................ 11
2.4.1 What is Your New Insert Made Of? ................................................................................. 11
3 Fuel .................................................................................................. 13
3.1 Materials That Should Not be Burned ................................................................................. 13
3.2 How to Prepare or Buy Good Firewood .............................................................................. 13
3.2.1 What is Good Firewood? ................................................................................................. 13
3.2.2 Tree Species ..................................................................................................................... 13
3.2.3 Log Length ........................................................................................................................ 14
3.2.4 Piece Size .......................................................................................................................... 14
3.2.5 How to Dry Firewood ....................................................................................................... 15
3.2.6 Judging Firewood Moisture Content ............................................................................... 16
3.3 Manufactured Logs .............................................................................................................. 16
4 Operating Your Insert....................................................................... 17
4.1 The use of a fire screen........................................................................................................ 17
4.2 Your First Fires ..................................................................................................................... 17
4.3 Lighting Fires ........................................................................................................................ 17
4.3.1 Conventional Fire Starting ............................................................................................... 18
4.3.2 The Top Down Fire ........................................................................................................... 18
4.3.3 Two Parallel Logs .............................................................................................................. 19
4.3.4 Using Fire Starters ............................................................................................................ 19
4.4 Maintaining Wood Fires ...................................................................................................... 19
4.4.1 General Advice ................................................................................................................. 19
4.4.2 Ash Removal ..................................................................................................................... 20
4.4.3 Raking Charcoal ................................................................................................................ 20

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4.4.4
Firing Each New Load Hot ................................................................................................ 21
4.4.5 Turning Down the Air Supply ........................................................................................... 21
4.5 Fan Operation ...................................................................................................................... 22
4.5.1 Building Different Fires for Different Needs .................................................................... 22
5 Maintaining Your Wood Heating System ......................................... 25
5.1 Insert Maintenance ............................................................................................................. 25
5.1.1 Cleaning Door Glass ......................................................................................................... 25
5.1.2 Door adjustment .............................................................................................................. 26
5.1.3 Replacing the Door Gasket ............................................................................................... 26
5.1.4 Replacing the Glass Gasket and/or the Glass .................................................................. 27
5.1.5 Cleaning and Painting the Insert ...................................................................................... 28
5.2 Chimney and Chimney Liner Maintenance ......................................................................... 28
5.2.1 Why Chimney Cleaning is Necessary ............................................................................... 28
5.2.2 How Often Should You Clean the Chimney? ................................................................... 29
5.2.3 Cleaning the Chimney ...................................................................................................... 29
PART B - INSTALLATION ......................................................................... 30
6 Pre-Installation Masonry ireplace requirements ............................. 30
7 Sa ety In ormation ........................................................................... 32
7.1 Summary of Installation Cautions and Warnings ................................................................ 32
7.2 Regulations Covering Insert Installation .............................................................................. 32
8 Clearances to Combustible Material ................................................ 33
8.1 Location of the Certification Label ...................................................................................... 33
8.2 The Masonry Fireplace Throat Damper ............................................................................... 33
8.3 Compliance of a Combustible Mantel Shelf ........................................................................ 34
8.4 Positioning the Unit ............................................................................................................. 35
8.5 Minimum Masonry Opening, Clearances to Combustibles, and Floor Protector ............... 39
9 The Venting System ......................................................................... 42
9.1 General ................................................................................................................................ 42
9.2 Block-Off Plate ..................................................................................................................... 42
9.3 Suitable Chimneys ............................................................................................................... 43
9.4 Liner installation .................................................................................................................. 43
9.5 Chimney liner installation .................................................................................................... 44

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9.5.1
If the chimney liner does align with the insert’s flue outlet, you have two options ....... 44
9.5.2 If the chimney liner does not align with the insert’s flue outlet ..................................... 45
9.6 Minimum Chimney Height ................................................................................................... 46
9.7 The Relationship Between the Chimney and the House ..................................................... 46
9.7.1 Why the chimney should penetrate the highest heated space ....................................... 46
9.8 Supply of Combustion Air .................................................................................................... 47
9.8.1 Air Supply in Conventional Houses .................................................................................. 47
Appendix 1: Reversing the Door Opening and Adjusting the Handle ..... 48
Appendix 2: Installing the Adapter or Fresh Air Kit (AC01298) ............. 50
Appendix 3: Faceplate Installation ........................................................ 51
Appendix 4: Blower Installation ............................................................ 53
Appendix 5: Installing the Fire Screen (AC01315) .................................. 55
Appendix 6: Installation o Secondary Air Tubes and Ba le .................. 56
Appendix 7: Removal instructions ......................................................... 58
Appendix 8: Exploded Diagram and Parts List ....................................... 59
OSBURN LIMITED LIFETIME WARRANTY ................................................ 62

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PART A - OPERATION AND MAINTENANCE
Please see Part B for installation instructions.
1SAFETY INFORMATION
1.1 SUMMARY OF OPERATION AND MAINTENANCE CAUTIONS AND WARNINGS
• HOT WHILE IN OPERATION, KEEP CHILDREN, CLOTHING AND FURNITURE AWAY. CONTACT
MAY CAUSE SKIN BURNS. GLOVES MAY BE NEEDED FOR INSERT OPERATION.
• USING AN INSERT WITH CRACKED OR BROKEN COMPONENTS, SUCH AS GLASS OR
FIREBRICKS OR BAFFLES MAY PRODUCE AN UNSAFE CONDITION AND MAY DAMAGE THE
INSERT.
• OPEN THE AIR CONTROL FULLY BEFORE OPENING THE LOADING DOOR.
• OPERATE ONLY WITH DOOR FULLY CLOSED OR FULLY OPEN WITH FIRE SCREEN IN PLACE. IF
DOOR IS LEFT PARTLY OPEN, GAS AND FLAME MAY BE DRAWN OUT OF THE OPENING,
CREATING RISKS FROM BOTH FIRE AND SMOKE.
• THIS INSERT HAS BEEN TESTED FOR USE WITH AN OPEN DOOR IN CONJUNCTION WITH A FIRE
SCREEN (AC01315, SOLD SEPARATELY). THE DOOR MAY BE OPEN OR FIRE SCREEN REMOVED
ONLY DURING LIGHTING PROCEDURES OR RELOADING. ALWAYS CLOSE THE DOOR OR PUT
BACK THE FIRE SCREEN AFTER IGNITION. DO NOT LEAVE THE INSERT UNATTENDED WHEN
THE DOOR IS OPENED WITH OR WITHOUT FIRE SCREEN.
• NEVER USE GASOLINE, LANTERN FUEL (NAPHTHA), FUEL OIL, MOTOR OIL, KEROSENE,
CHARCOAL LIGHTER FLUID, OR SIMILAR LIQUIDS OR AEROSOLS TO START A FIRE IN THIS
INSERT. KEEP ALL SUCH LIQUIDS OR AEROSOLS WELL AWAY FROM THE INSERT WHILE IT IS IN
USE.
• DO NOT STORE FUEL WITHIN HEATER MINIMUM INSTALLATION CLEARANCES.
• BURN ONLY SEASONED NATURAL FIREWOOD.

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• DO NOT BURN:
oGARBAGE OF ANY KIND,
oCOAL OR CHARCOAL,
oTREATED, PAINTED OR COATED WOOD,
oPLYWOOD OR PARTICLE BOARD,
oFINE PAPER, COLORED PAPER OR CARDBOARD,
oSALT WATER DRIFTWOOD,
oMANUFACTURED LOGS CONTAINING WAX OR CHEMICAL ADDITIVES,
oRAILROAD TIES OR
oLIQUIDS SUCH AS KEROSCENE OR DIESEL FUEL TO START A FIRE.
• THIS APPLIANCE SHOULD BE MAINTAINED AND OPERATED AT ALL TIMES IN ACCORDANCE
WITH THESE INSTRUCTIONS.
• DO NOT ELEVATE THE FIRE BY MEANS OF GRATES, AND IRONS OR OTHER MEANS.
• SOME JURISDICTIONS IN THE USA REQUIRE A SUPPLY OF OUTDOOR COMBUSTION AIR FOR
THE INSERT. IN CANADA, AN OUTDOOR AIR SUPPLY IS NOT REQUIRED, IF A CARBON
MONOXIDE (CO) DETECTOR/ALARM IS LOCATED IN THE ROOM IN WHICH THE INSERT IS
INSTALLED. THE CO DETECTOR WILL PROVIDE WARNING IF FOR ANY REASON THE WOOD
INSERT FAILS TO FUNCTION CORRECTLY. IF YOU ARE REQUIRED TO INSTALL AN OUTDOOR
AIR SUPPLY, WE RECOMMEND THAT YOU ALSO INSTALL A CO DETECTOR/ALARM TO
PROVIDE WARNING IF SMOKE SPILLAGE FROM THE INSERT OCCURS.

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2 GENERAL INFORMATION
2.1 MATRIX INSERT SPECIFICATIONS
Fuel Type Cordwood
Test Standards (safety) ULC S628, UL 737 and UL 1482
Test Standard (emissions) EPA Method 28 (40 CFR Part 60)
Heating capacity range* 750 to 2100 sq. ft. (47 to 195 m
2
)
Maximum heat output**
(EPA test fuel)
32 200 BTU/h (9,4 kW/h)
Maximum heat output**
(natural hardwood fuel) 75 000 BTU/h (22 kW/h)
Optimum efficiency 77,2 %
Test Standard (efficiency) CSA B415.1-10
Approximate Burn Time 6 to 8 hours
Shipping Weight 474 lb ( 215 kg)
Firebox olume 2,4 cu.ft. (0,068 m
3
)
Maximum Log Length 20" east-west***
Flue Outlet Diameter 6" (150 mm) diameter (vertical)
Baffle Material C-Cast
Burn time and heating capacity may vary subject to location in home, chimney draft, chimney
diameter, locality, heat loss factors, climate, fuels and other variables.
The EPA test fuel is dimensional Douglas fir pieces stapled together into cribs with air spaces
between. We also test using the same procedure except using split hardwood firewood to reflect
real-world heat output. This insert is not intended to operate at its peak heat output continuously.
East-west: through the door you see the sides of the logs; north-south: through the door you
see the ends of the logs.

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2.2 ZONE HEATING AND HOW TO MAKE IT WORK FOR YOU
Your new Matrix wood insert is a space heater, which means it is intended to heat the area it is
installed in, as well as spaces that connect to that area, although to a lower temperature. This is
called zone heating and it is an increasingly popular way to heat homes or spaces within homes.
Zone heating can be used to supplement another heating system by heating a particular space
within a home, such as a basement family room or an addition that lacks another heat source.
Houses of moderate size and relatively new construction can be heated with a properly sized and
located wood insert. Whole house zone heating works best when the insert is located in the part
of the house where the family spends most of its time. This is normally the main living area where
the kitchen, dining and living rooms are located. By locating the insert in this area, you will get the
maximum benefit of the heat it produces and will achieve the highest possible heating efficiency
and comfort. The space where you spend most of your time will be warmest, while bedrooms and
basement (if there is one) will stay cooler. In this way, you will burn less wood than with other
forms of heating.
Although the insert may be able to heat the main living areas of your house to an adequate
temperature, we strongly recommend that you also have a conventional oil, gas or electric heating
system to provide backup heating.
Your success with zone heating will depend on several factors, including the correct sizing and
location of the insert, the size, layout and age of your home and your climate zone. Three-season
vacation homes can usually be heated with smaller inserts than houses that are heated all winter.

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2.3 THE BENEFITS OF LOW EMISSIONS AND HIGH EFFICIENCY
The low smoke emissions produced by the special features inside the Matrix insert mean that your
household will release up to 90 percent less smoke into the outside environment than if you used
an older conventional stove. But there is more to the emission control technologies than
protecting the environment.
The smoke released from wood when it is heated contains about half of the energy content of the
fuel. By burning the wood completely, your insert releases all the heat energy from the wood
instead of wasting it as smoke up the chimney. Also, the features inside the firebox allow you to
reduce the air supply to control heat output, while maintaining clean and efficient flaming
combustion, which boosts the efficient delivery of heat to your home.
The emission control and advanced combustion features of your insert can only work properly if
your fuel is in the correct moisture content range of 15 to 20 percent. See Section A3.0 of this
manual for suggestions on preparing fuelwood and judging its moisture.
2.4 THE SBI COMMITMENT TO YOU AND THE ENVIRONMENT
The SBI team is committed to protecting the environment, so we do everything we can to use only
materials in our products that will have no lasting negative impact on the environment.
2.4.1 WHAT IS YOUR NEW INSERT MADE OF?
The body of your insert, which is most of its weight, is carbon steel. Should it ever become
necessary many years in the future, almost the entire insert can be recycled into new products,
thus eliminating the need to mine new materials.
The paint coating on your insert is very thin. Its OC content ( olatile Organic Compounds) is very
low. OCs can be responsible for smog, so all the paint used during the manufacturing process
meets the latest air quality requirements regarding OC reduction or elimination.
The air tubes are stainless steel, which can also be recycled.
The C-Cast baffle is made of an aluminosilicate fibre material that is compressed with a binder to
form a rigid board. C-Cast can withstand temperatures above 2,000 °F. It is not considered
hazardous waste. Disposal at a landfill is recommended.
Firebrick is mainly composed of silicon dioxide, also known as silica, a product processed from a
mined mineral. It is most commonly found in nature in the form of sand and clay. Disposal at a
landfill is recommended.
The door and glass gaskets are fibreglass which is spun from melted sand. Black gaskets have been
dipped into a solvent-free solution. Disposal at a landfill is recommended.

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The door glass is a 5 mm thick ceramic material that contains no toxic chemicals. It is made of
natural raw materials such as sand and quartz that are combined in such a way to form a high
temperature glass. Ceramic glass cannot be recycled in the same way as normal glass, so it should
not be disposed of with your regular household products. Disposal at a landfill is recommended.

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3FUEL
3.1 MATERIALS THAT SHOULD NOT BE BURNED
• GARBAGE OF ANY KIND,
• COAL OR CHARCOAL,
• TREATED, PAINTED OR COATED WOOD,
• PLYWOOD OR PARTICLE BOARD,
• FINE PAPER, COLORED PAPER OR CARDBOARD,
• SALT WATER DRIFTWOOD
• MANUFACTURED LOGS CONTAINING WAX OR CHEMICAL ADDITIVES
• RAILROAD TIES
• LIQUIDS SUCH AS KEROSCENE OR DIESEL FUEL TO START A FIRE
3.2 HOW TO PREPARE OR BUY GOOD FIREWOOD
3.2.1 WHAT IS GOOD FIREWOOD?
Good firewood has been cut to the correct length for the insert, split to a range of sizes and
stacked in the open until its moisture content is reduced to 15 to 20 per cent.
3.2.2 TREE SPECIES
The tree species the firewood is produced from is less important than its moisture content. The
main difference in firewood from various tree species is the density of the wood. Hardwoods are
denser than softwoods. People who live in the coldest regions of North America usually have only
spruce, birch and poplar, other low-density species to burn and yet they can heat their homes
successfully.
Homeowners with access to both hardwood and softwood fuel sometimes use both types for
different purposes. For example, softer woods make good fuel for relatively mild weather in spring
and fall because they light quickly and produce less heat Softwoods are not as dense as hardwoods
so a given volume of wood contains less energy. Using softwoods avoids overheating the house,
which can be a common problem with wood heating in moderate weather. Harder woods are best
for colder winter weather when more heat and longer burn cycles are desirable.
Note that hardwood trees like oak, maple, ash and beech are slower growing and longer lived than
softer woods like poplar and birch. That makes hardwood trees more valuable. The advice that

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only hardwoods are good to burn is outdated. Old, leaky cast iron stoves wouldn’t hold a fire
overnight unless they were fed large pieces of hardwood. That is no longer true. You can
successfully heat your home by using the less desirable tree species and give the forest a break at
the same time.
3.2.3 LOG LENGTH
Logs should be cut at least 1” (25 mm) shorter than the firebox so they fit in easily. Pieces that are
even slightly too long make loading the insert very difficult. The most common standard length of
firewood is 16” (400 mm).
The pieces should be a consistent length, with a maximum of 1” (25 mm) variation from piece to
piece.
3.2.4 PIECE SIZE
Firewood dries more quickly when it is split. Large unsplit rounds can take years to dry enough to
burn. Even when dried, unsplit logs are difficult to ignite because they don’t have the sharp edges
where the flames first catch. Logs as small as 3” (75 mm) should be split to encourage drying.
Wood should be split to a range of sizes, from about 3” to 6” (75 mm to 150 mm) in cross section.
Having a range of sizes makes starting and rekindling fires much easier. Often, the firewood
purchased from commercial suppliers is not split finely enough for convenient stoking. It is
sometimes advisable to resplit the wood before stacking to dry.

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3.2.5 HOW TO DRY FIREWOOD
Firewood that is not dry enough to burn is the cause of most complaints about wood inserts.
Continually burning green or unseasoned wood produces more creosote and involves lack of heat
and dirty glass door. See Section 5: Maintaining your wood heating system for concerns about
creosote.
Here are some things to consider in estimating drying time:
• firewood takes a long time to dry
• firewood bought from a dealer is rarely dry enough to burn, so it is advisable to buy the wood
in spring and dry it yourself
• drying happens faster in dry weather than in damp, maritime climates
• drying happens faster in warm summer weather than in winter weather
• small pieces dry more quickly than large pieces
• split pieces dry more quickly than unsplit rounds
• softwoods take less time to dry than hardwoods
• softwoods like pine, spruce, and poplar/aspen can be dry enough to burn after being stacked
in the open for only the summer months
• hardwoods like oak, maple and ash can take one, or even two years to dry fully, especially if
the pieces are big
• firewood dries more quickly when stacked in the open where it is exposed to sun and wind; it
takes much longer to dry when stacked in a wood shed
• firewood that is ready to burn has a moisture content between15 and 20% by weight and will
allow your insert to produce its highest possible efficiency

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3.2.6 JUDGING FIREWOOD MOISTURE CONTENT
You can find out if some firewood is dry enough to burn by using these guidelines:
• cracks form at the ends of logs as they dry
• as it dries in the sun, the wood turns from white or cream colored to grey or yellow,
• bang two pieces of wood together; seasoned wood sounds hollow and wet wood sounds dull,
• dry wood is much lighter in weight than wet wood,
• split a piece, and if the fresh face feels warm and dry it is dry enough to burn; if it feels damp, it
is too wet,
• burn a piece; wet wood hisses and sizzles in the fire and dry wood does not.
You could buy a wood moisture meter to test your
firewood.
3.3 MANUFACTURED LOGS
Do not burn manufactured logs made of wax impregnated sawdust or logs with any chemical
additives. Manufactured logs made of 100% compressed sawdust can be burned, but use caution
in the number of these logs burned at one time. Start with one manufactured log and see how the
insert reacts. Never use more than two manufactured logs.

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4OPERATING YOUR INSERT
4.1 THE USE OF A FIRE SCREEN.
This insert has been tested for use with an open door in conjunction with a fire screen (AC01315,
sold separately). Make sure the fire screen is properly secured on the insert to avoid any risk of
sparks damaging your flooring. When the fire screen is in use, do not leave the insert unattended
so that you can respond promptly in the event of smoke spillage into the room. Potential causes of
smoke spillage are described in Section 9 The Venting System of this manual. See Appendix 6:
Installing the Fire Screen (AC01315 for installation instructions.
OPERATING WITH THE FIRE SCREEN INCREASES POSSIBILITIES OF GENERATING CARBON
MONOXIDE. CARBON MONOXIDE IS AN ODOURLESS GAS THAT IS HIGHLY TOXIC AND WHICH
CAN CAUSE DEATH AT HIGH CONCENTRATION IN AIR.
4.2 YOUR FIRST FIRES
Two things will happen as you burn your first few fires; the paint cures and the internal
components of the insert are conditioned.
As the paint cures, some of the chemicals vaporize. The vapors are not poisonous, but they do
smell bad. Fresh paint fumes can also cause false alarms in smoke detectors. So, when you first
light your insert, be prepared by opening doors and/or windows to ventilate the house. As you
burn hotter and hotter fires, more of the painted surfaces reach the curing temperature of the
paint. The smell of curing paint does not disappear until you have burned one or two very hot
fires.
Burn one or two small fires to begin the curing and conditioning process. Then build bigger and
hotter fires until there is no longer any paint smell from the insert. Once the paint smell
disappears, your insert is ready for serious heating.
4.3 LIGHTING FIRES
Each person who heats with wood develops their own favorite way to light fires. Whatever
method you choose, your goal should be to get a hot fire burning quickly. A fire that starts fast
produces less smoke and deposits less creosote in the chimney. Here are three popular and
effective ways to start wood fires.

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4.3.1 CONVENTIONAL FIRE STARTING
The conventional way to build a wood fire
is to bunch up 5 to 10 sheets of plain
newspaper and place them in the firebox.
Next, place 10 or so pieces of fine kindling
on the newspaper. This kindling should be
very thin; less than 1” (25 mm). Next, place
some larger kindling pieces on the fine
kindling. Open the air control fully and
light the newspaper. If you have a tall,
straight venting system you should be able
to close the door immediately and the fire
will ignite. Once the fire has ignited, close
the door and leave the air control fully
open.
A conventional kindling fire with paper
under finely split wood.
DO NOT LEAVE THE INSERT UNATTENDED WHEN THE DOOR IS SLIGHTLY OPENED. ALWAYS
CLOSE AND LATCH THE DOOR AFTER THE FIRE IGNITES.
After the kindling fire has mostly burned, you can add standard firewood pieces until you have a
fire of the right size for the conditions.
4.3.2 THE TOP DOWN FIRE
The top down fire starting method solves two problems with the conventional method: first, it
does not collapse and smother itself as it burns; and second, it is not necessary to build up the fire
gradually because the firebox is loaded before the fire is lit. A top down fire can provide up to two
hours of heating or more. The top down method only works properly if the wood is well-seasoned.
Start by placing three or four full-sized split pieces of dry firewood in the firebox. Next, place 4 or 5
more finely split pieces of firewood (2” to 3” [50 mm to 75 mm] in dia.) on the base logs at right
angles (log cabin style). Now place about 10 pieces of finely split kindling on the second layer at
right angles.
The fire is topped with about 5 sheets of newspaper. You can just bunch them up and stuff them in
between the kindling and the underside of the baffle. Or you can make newspaper knots by rolling
up single sheets corner to corner and tying a knot in them. The advantage of knots is that they
don’t roll off the fire as they burn. Light the newspaper and watch as the fire burns from top to
bottom.

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4.3.3 TWO PARALLEL LOGS
Place two spit logs in the firebox. Place a few sheets of twisted newspaper between the logs. Now
place some fine kindling across the two logs and some larger kindling across those, log cabin style.
Light the newspaper.
4.3.4 USING FIRE STARTERS
Many people like to use commercial fire starters instead of newspaper. Some of these starters are
made of sawdust and wax and others are specialized flammable solid chemicals. Follow the
package directions for use.
Gel starter may be used but only if there are no hot embers present. Use only in a cold firebox to
start a fire.
DO NOT USE FLAMMABLE LIQUIDS SUCH AS GASOLINE, NAPHTHA, FUEL OIL, MOTOR OIL, OR
AEROSOLS TO START OR REKINDLE THE FIRE.
4.4 MAINTAINING WOOD FIRES
4.4.1 GENERAL ADVICE
Wood heating with a space heater is very different than other forms of heating. There will be
variations in the temperature in different parts of the house and there will be variations in
temperature throughout the day and night. This is normal, and for experienced wood burners
these are advantages of zone heating with wood.
Do not expect steady heat output from your insert. It is normal for its surface temperature to rise
after a new load of wood is ignited and for its temperature to gradually decline as the fire
progresses. This rising and falling of temperature can be matched to your household routines. For
example, the area temperature can be cooler when you are active, such as when doing housework
or cooking, and it can be warmer when you are inactive, such as when reading or watching
television.
Wood burns best in cycles. A cycle starts when a new load of wood is ignited by hot coals and ends
when that load has been consumed down to a bed of charcoal about the same size as it was when
the wood was loaded. Do not attempt to produce a steady heat output by placing a single log on
the fire at regular intervals. Always place at least three, and preferably more, pieces on the fire at
a time so that the heat radiated from one piece helps to ignite the pieces next to it. Each load of
wood should provide several hours of heating. The size of each load can be matched to the
amount of heat needed.
When you burn in cycles, you rarely need to open the insert’s loading door while the wood is
flaming. This is an advantage because there is more chance that smoke will leak from the insert
when the door is opened as a full fire is burning.

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IF YOU MUST OPEN THE DOOR WHILE THE FUEL IS FLAMING, OPEN THE AIR CONTROL FULLY FOR
A FEW MINUTES, THEN UNLATCH AND OPEN THE DOOR SLOWLY.
4.4.2 ASH REMOVAL
Ash should be removed from the firebox every two or three days of full time heating. Do not let
the ash build up in the firebox because it will interfere with proper fire management.
The best time to remove ash is after an overnight fire when the insert is relatively cool, but there is
still some chimney draft to draw the ash dust into the insert and prevent it from coming into the
room.
After ashes have been removed from the insert and placed in a tightly covered metal container,
they should be taken outside immediately. The closed container of ashes should be placed on a
non-combustible floor or on the ground well away from all combustible materials pending final
disposal. Ashes normally contain some live charcoal that can stay hot for several days. If the ashes
are disposed of by burial in soil or otherwise locally dispersed, they should be retained in the
closed container until all cinders have thoroughly cooled. Other waste should not be placed in this
container.
NEVER STORE ASHES INDOORS OR IN A NON-METALIC CONTAINER OR ON A WOODEN DECK.
4.4.3 RAKING CHARCOAL
Rekindle the fire when you notice that the room temperature has fallen. You will find most of the
remaining charcoal at the back of the firebox, furthest from the door. Rake these coals towards
the door before loading. There are two reasons for this raking of the coals. First, it concentrates
them near where most of the combustion air enters the firebox and where they can ignite the new
load quickly, and second, the charcoal will not be smothered by the new load of wood. If you were
to simply spread the charcoal out, the new load will smoulder for a long time before igniting.
Remove ash first, and then rake charcoal towards the front of the firebox before loading so that it
will ignite the new load.