Painless 60608 User manual

Wire Harness Installation
Manual #90566
For Installing:
Part # 60608
26 Circuit/7 Relay
LS1/4L60E Integrated Harness
Perfect Performance Products, LLC
Painless Performance Products Division
2501 Ludelle Street
Fort Worth, TX 76105-1036
800-423-9696 phone –817-244-4024 fax

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Web Site: www.painlessperformance.com
E-Mail: [email protected]
If you have any questions concerning the installation of this harness or
having trouble in general, feel free to call Painless Performance Products'
tech line at 1-800-423-9696. Calls are answered from 8am to 5pm central
time, Monday thru Friday, except holidays.
We have attempted to provide you with as accurate instructions as
possible, and are always concerned about corrections or improvements
that can be made. If you have found any errors or omissions, or if you
simply have comments or suggestions concerning these instructions,
please write us at the address above. Or, better yet, send us a fax at (817)
244-4024 or e-mail us at painless@painlessperformance.com. We
sincerely appreciate your business.
Perfect Performance Products, LLC shall in no event be liable in contract
or tort (including negligence) for special, indirect, incidental, or
consequential damages, such as but not limited to, loss of property
damage, or any other damages, costs or expenses which might be claimed
as the result of the use or failure of the goods sold hereby, except only the
cost of repair or replacement.
CAUTION:BEFORE THE REMOVAL OF YOUR ORIGINAL HARNESS
AND/OR THE INSTALL OF YOUR NEW PAINLESS HARNESS,
DISCONNECT THE POWER FROM YOUR VEHICLE BY REMOVING
THE NEGATIVE AND POSITIVE BATTERY CABLES FROM THE
BATTERY. THE BATTERY IS NOT TO BE CONNECTED UNTILL THE
PAINLESS HARNESS HAS BEEN INSTALLED AND TESTED.
A full color copy of these instructions can be found at
http://www.painlessperformance.com/InfoSearch/manuals.php
Painless Performance Products recommends you, the installer,
read this installation manual from front to back before installing
this harness. Due to the variables involved with your particular
installation, reading this manual will give you considerable insight
on the proper installation of this harness.
In the event that there are unused or unconnected wires, the ends
of all unused wires will need to be terminated with an insulated
terminal or taped. Doing so will prevent the wires from shorting
and causing harness failure or fire.

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July 2009 Copyright
By Perfect Performance Products, LLC
TABLE OF CONTENTS
SECTIONS
INTRODUCTION ….……………………………………………..……..……..……….. 3
SMALL PARTS………………………………………………………………….……… 3
PCM BACKGROUND …………………………………………..……..………… 3
TOOLS NEEDED……………………………………………………….……..……….. 7
REQUIRED FUEL INJECTION PARTS…………………………………………….. 10
FUSEBLOCKMOUNTING ………..…….…………………………..……..……….…11
MOUNTING THE PCM………………………………………………..……..………... 12
FUEL INJECTION HARNESS………………………..……..……………………….. 14
WIRING THE FRONT OF THE VEHICLE…………………………………………… 28
WIRING THE INTERIOR OF THE VEHICLE……………..……………………….. 31
WIRING THE REAR OF THE VEHICLE…………………………………………….. 42
TESTING THE SYSTEM………….………………………………………………..….. 44
WIRE INDEX……………….………………………………………………………..….. 45
DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODES……………………………………………………..49
ILLUSTRATIONS
FUSE BLOCK …………………………………………………………………………… 11
ENGINE GROUNDS…………………………………………………………………….. 15
BATTERY POWER ………….…………………………………………………………..21
HEADLIGHT SECTION…………………………..…………………………………….. 29
INSTRUMENT PANEL SECTION…………….….………………………………..….. 31
HEADLIGHT SWITCH….……………………….……………………………..……….. 33
TURN SWITCH…..…….……………………………………………………………….. 34
COLUMN MOUNT IGNITION SWTICH….………………………………………..….. 35
DASH MOUNT IGNITION SWITCH……………………………………….………….. 36
A/C SWITCH CIRCUITS………………. ……………………………….….………….. 37
CRUISE SWITCH……………………………………………………………………….. 39
BRAKE SWITCH………………………..………………………………………………..39
COME/COURTESY LIGHT CIRCUITS………………………………………………. 40
INTERIOR GROUND SPLICE………..……………………………………………….. 41
TAIL LIGHT SECTION………..……………………………………………………….. 43
TESTING THE SYSTEM………….………………………………………………..….. 44

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Introduction:
This integrated chassis/fuel injection harness can be used to wire any vehicle with an
LS1/LS6 engine, 4L60E transmission and a chassis that utilizes switches, lighting and
other circuits that are 12Volt and negative grounded. Fuel injection wires are color
coded as a 2000 to 2002 Camaro Z-28. Chassis wires are color coded as any 1970s to
1980s General Motors vehicle would be. With this harness fitting such a wide range of
vehicles, these instructions should be considered general installation procedures.
Referring to a factory chassis wiring schematic of your vehicle will aid in connecting to
factory switches, lighting and accessory equipment. Most manuals sold at auto parts
chain stores provide a basic wire diagram. Please do not attempt to modify this
Painless harness to function as your factory harness did. We have developed this
harness to function as this manual instructs you to connect it.
We suggest you make identification labels and apply them as you remove the old
harness from your vehicle. Marking the sections, connectors and single wire
connections during the removal gives you a great backup resource to use if you forget
which wire goes where while installing this Painless harness.
Be sure to retain any wiring pertaining to the following accessories as this Painless
harness only provides fused power circuits for these:
A/C-Heater selector switch, blower motor resistor and blower motor
Power window motors, switches and relays
Power door locks, switches and relays
Contents of this Painless wire harness kit:
Refer to the contents figure on the front page to take inventory. See that you have
everything you’re intended to have in this kit. If you find that anything is missing or
damaged, please contact the dealer where you obtained the kit or Painless
Performance at (800) 423-9696.
This Painless Wire Harness Kit should contain the following:
Wire harness
2 large parts bags containing heat shrink, 4 inch zip ties, 7 inch zip ties, umbrella
zip ties, rubber alternator wire boot, rubber grommets GM turn signal switch
connectors, GM ignition switch connectors, GM headlight switch and dimmer
switch connectors and four H4 headlight connectors.
1 clear plastic, bubble pack, parts box containing miscellaneous ring terminals,
spade terminals and several types of Packard terminals.
Things to know about the Delphi Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
utilized with this Painless harness:
The GM service #12200411 PCM was factory installed in many different makes
and models of General Motors vehicles. Both V6 and V8 engines can be

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operated by this controller. When procuring a PCM for use with this harness be
sure to specify it be from a 1999-2002 Camaro Z28 or Trans Am.
The factory Camaro Z28 and Trans Am calibration incorporates a Vehicle Anti-
theft System (VATS). VATS must be turned off or otherwise the engine will
continuously start for two seconds and then die, when cranked.
Factory installed emission devices include: fuel tank pressure sensor, tank vent
solenoid, tank purge solenoid, air pump, air pump solenoid, and exhaust gas
recirculation solenoid. The calibration installed at the GM factory onto your PCM
tells it to look for all of these emissions components. This Painless harness does
not include any supporting wiring or connectors for these.
The final drive ratio utilized in 1999-2002 Camaro Z-28 and Trans Am cars was
3.23:1. The rear tire on these vehicles had an overall diameter of 25 inches.
Transmission shift schedule calibrations are based around this rear end gear
ratio and tire diameter. Most likely your rear end gear ratio and tire diameter is
different than this. If so, without a calibration change to the transmission shift
schedules your vehicle may up shift late/soon and down shift late/soon. You may
also experience improper torque converter lock up operation.
This Painless harness utilizes two cooling fan relays built into the fuse block.
Both relays are controlled by the PCM. Fan 1 relay factory calibrations are 226oF
on and 219oF off. Fan 2 relay factory calibrations are 234oF on and 227oF off.
LS1/LS6 engines were factory installed with a coolant thermostat that opens at
195oF. Aftermarket thermostats are available with a lower opening temperature.
If you plan to use an aftermarket thermostat you must have both fan relay on/off
temperature calibrations changed. We suggest an on temperature of 215oF and
off at 200oF for fan 1 and 2.
Non-electrical parts and other things you should consider when
transplanting an LS1/LS6 engine and 4L60E transmission include:
If your engine has not ran for several months or more you will probably
experience the joy of clogged injectors when you go to fire it up for the first time.
Do yourself a favor and have the injectors cleaned, or purchase new fuel
injectors. If you do not, your engine will probably not start due to clogged fuel
injectors.
LS1/LS6 engines all came equipped with Delphi EV1 injectors. Different part
numbers have different lb/hr rated injectors. 12533952, 12482704, 12561462
are rated 28.6lb/hr @ 58psi. 12456154, 12555894 are rated 26.2lb/hr @ 58psi.

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Fuel system requirements include a high pressure, 56-60 PSI, fuel pump. The
fuel feed line to fuel rail must be at least -6AN or 3/8” in size for stock engine,
350-450HP, setups. If your engine’s output is more than 450HP you should use -
8AN or ½” fuel rail feed line. Walbro manufactures a wide variety of high
pressure fuel pumps and installation kits. They have many internet distributors
including www.aztpi.com.
If your vehicle’s fuel tank is one with the early small 1 & 13/16” hole sending unit
you have several options of how to upgrade it. One option is to modify the
sending unit yourself by adding a fuel return line. Another option is to replace the
sending unit with an aftermarket one from a company such as
www.robbmcperformance.com. They offer drop in units with a variety of tube
sizes and adapter fittings. The other option is to have a company such as
www.rockvalleyantiqueautoparts.com cut out the old flange and weld in a large
flange from a later model 1984 & up GM vehicle. The larger flange will allow for
an in tank mounted fuel pump.
LS1/LS6 engines have dead headed fuel rails. They require 58 pounds of fuel
pressure. GF-822 is a Delco return type fuel filter/regulator that can be plumbed
in between the fuel pump and fuel rail. It will filter the fuel and maintain 58 PSI at
the fuel rail. Another option is to mount an external bypass regulator such as one
from Aeromotive. Just be sure to purchase a regulator that can handle 58 PSI
and the amount of fuel volume that you need.
LS1/LS6 engine cooling systems have some specific requirements. First, the
lower radiator hose connects to the water neck with the thermostat behind it. If
looking at the front of the engine it is the water neck to the lower left of the water
pump. The upper radiator hose connects to the water neck at the top of the
water pump. Second, the factory coolant thermostat only starts to open at 195oF
and is fully open at 210oF. Aftermarket thermostats are available that will open at
a lower temperature. Third, these engines incorporate steam tubes that are
plumbed into both the front and rear of each head. They are all tied together and
then plumbed through the bottom of the throttle body and then to the radiator.
Most people remove the throttle body from this coolant loop by connecting the
steam tube outlet, which is located just the lower right of the throttle body and
protruding forward from under the intake manifold, directly to the upper radiator
hose or to an open coolant bung in the radiator. Do not plug off this steam tube,
it must be connected to either the upper radiator hose or to the upper third of the
radiator in order to bleed off any steam that accumulates in the engine heads.
Companies such as Afco www.afabcorp.com manufacture direct bolt in radiators
that are specifically designed for LS1/LS6 engine transplants. These are ideal
especially since the coolant inlet and outlet are both on the passenger side of the
radiator. By moving the upper radiator inlet to the passenger side the driver side
is opened up to allow a fresh air intake elbow to be routed there.
Coolant temperature and oil pressure gauge senders can easily be connected to
any LS1/LS6 engine. In both engine heads are threaded coolant ports with
Metric 12 x 1.5 threads. The coolant port on the driver side head is utilized by
the coolant temperature sensor needed for the PCM. The port on the passenger
head usually has a plug in it that can be removed and a temperature sender for a

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gauge can be inserted. Most aftermarket gauge manufacturers offer adapters to
adapt their gauge sender so you can thread it into this coolant port.
There are two places that oil pressure senders may be connected to these
engines. Behind the intake manifold is a threaded port, Metric 16 x 1.5 threads.
Depending on what vehicle your engine was donated from, this port might
already have a 0-5 Volt oil pressure sensor in it. This Painless harness does not
have connections for this sensor so you may remove it and with an adapter
screw in your oil pressure gauge sender. Another spot that is common for oil
pressure senders is just above the oil filter. Here you will find an aluminum cap
with two hex head, 8mm bolts holding it to the oil pan. You can remove this cap,
tap it to the threads that match your oil pressure sender and then reinstall it. Just
keep in mind that if you plan to use headers this location for a sender may not be
ideal. Heat can kill a sender quick.
4L60E transmissions require external fluid coolers. The ports on the side of the
transmission usually have quick-connect fittings installed. Most local auto parts
suppliers will offer fittings that adapt these ports to pipe flare fittings. If you plan
to bend your own hard lines this is your best bet. Or, you can also screw in 3/8”
NPT fittings into these ports. Make sure to use Teflon tape on the threads for a
good seal. Fittings are available from many online retailers or your local
hydraulic hose shop that are male 3/8” NPT to male -6AN or whatever your
application may need.
Shifter detents are another thing to consider when transplanting a 4L60E into a
vehicle that was originally manufactured with a 2 or 3 speed transmission.
Companies such as Shiftworks www.shiftworks.com manufacture shifter
conversion kits to upgrade your factory shifter to operate your late model
transmission. Another option is to completely replace the shifter with an
aftermarket one such as Lokar www.lokar.com part # FMS64L60EEM.
Throttle cables originally installed to your transplant vehicle may or may not be
long enough to reach the LS1/LS6 throttle body. If it is not long enough or just
doesn’t seem to work properly because it is worn out/frayed then check out Lokar
and their universal LS series throttle cables. These are cut to fit and easy to
install.
Engine accessory and frame clearance always seems to be an issue that comes
up when transplanting a LS1/LS6 engine into any early model vehicle. Usually
the alternator and power steering pumps do not have any clearance issues
associated with them. The factory LS1/LS6 A/C compressor mounts to the
passenger lower side of the engine. In this location, it will not clear most GM
frames. You will either have to notch the frame to create clearance or move the
A/C compressor. Companies such as KWIK Performance www.kwikperf.com
offer relocation brackets that move the compressor to the upper passenger side
of the engine. Moving the compressor to this location works well with most
transplants. These kits utilize a Sanden style compressor.
Drive shaft length will have to be modified if you are upgrading to a 4L60E from
most 2 & 3 speed automatics or manuals. You should also consider having the

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entire tube upgraded to a thicker wall material since you are likely to exceed the
handling capabilities of the original tube.
Tools Needed:
In addition to regular hand tools such as ratchets, sockets, extensions, screw drivers,
flash light or drop light, you will need the following tools:
Wire Crimping and Stripping Tools:
Two types of crimping tools are needed to install this harness. Painless Performance
Products offers part #70900 for crimping non insulated “factory” style terminals, these
crimpers can be seen in the photo below. You will need this style of crimper to crimp the
terminals used with GM turn signal, ignition, headlight and dimmer switches.
The second style of hand crimper shown below can be purchased from just about any
local electrical supply shop, home improvement store or can also be purchased online.
You will need this style of crimper to crimp the heat shrinkable, insulated terminals
included in the small parts bubble pack.
A good set of wire strippers are required to strip wire properly. Shown below are a pair
of strippers manufactured by Klein tools and that are available from just about any local
electrical supply shop, home improvement store or can be purchase online. This style
of wire stripper is ideal for this harness install because of its ability to properly strip wire
gauges 10awg to 20awg.

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Volt/Ohm Meter:
A Volt/Ohm meter is always a good tool to
have on hand when installing any type of
electrical components into any vehicle. Most
basic units provide the two functions required
to diagnose most electrical issues seen during
a harness install. These two functions are the
ability to read DC Voltage and electrical
continuity or Ohms. They can be purchased
from any home improvement store, local
hardware store and electrical supply shop and
online.
Battery Charger:
A battery charger is a very useful tool to have when initially connecting power up to a
newly installed wire harness. Battery chargers are available from any auto parts,
sporting, home improvement or local electrical supply store. Be sure the charger you
purchase has a low (5-10 Amps) setting.

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How to use jaw style crimpers:

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Parts required for installation of this harness:
The LS1/LS6 engine and 4L60E transmission section of the wire harness requires the
following parts for proper installation and operation. Factory installed engine sensors,
injectors and coils should be perfect matches for this harness. Do not purchase the
parts listed below unless you are missing it or need to replace a faulty one.
Part Description
Part Number
Engine
1997-2004 LS1/LS6 (Mechanical Throttle)
Transmission
1997 & UP 4L60E
PCM (Powertrain Control Module)
GM Service #12200411
Fuel Injectors
Delphi EV1
Ignition Coils
Delco D580
Throttle Position Sensor
Delco 213-912
Idle Air Control
Delco 217-1806
Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
Delco 213-953
Mass Air Flow Sensor
Delco 213-3457
Intake Air Temperature Sensor
Delco 213-243
Cam Position Sensor
Delco 213-363
Crank Position Sensor
Delco 213-354
Knock Sensor
Delco 213-3521
Oxygen Sensor
Delco AFS97
PRNDL Switch
GM #29540479
Vehicle Speed Sensor
Delco 213-328
Cruise Control Module
GM #25315091
Cruise Control Cable
GM #15040802
Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor
Delco 213-331
Mounting the fuse block:
The 26 fuse 7 relay fuse block is the center point of this integrated harness. All power is
routed through this fuse block. The first step to installing this integrated harness is to
mount the fuse block. Remove the front cover from the fuse block.
If looking at the front of the fuse block you will see a mounting hole on the lower
right side. Use a bolt and this hole to secure this fuse block if possible.

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Another option for mounting this fuse block will require you to remove the rear
cover from it. Insert a small, flat screw driver into the red slots as labeled in the
picture below. Push the screw driver about ½” into the slot, gently pry on the
screw driver handle towards the center of the fuse block while at the same time
pulling the rear cover away from the fuse block. Do this for all four release slots.
Once the rear cover is released from the main body of the fuse block you may
notice the need to cut the tie wraps around the wires protruding from it in order to
completely remove it. If so, cut the tie wraps and completely remove the rear
cover from the fuse block. The front cover and rear cover will click together
without the fuse block in between them. Just line them up and push them
together until you hear the two locks click. You now have an accurate mock up
of the fuse block to aid you when figuring out where to mount it. You can now
make a custom bracket or just run some self tapping screws through it to hold
this rear cover in its mounting place. Be sure any mounting solution you use
does not distort the rear cover or introduce any sharp metal objects that could
short out wires when you reassemble the fuse block.
Mounting the Powertrain Control Module:
The Delphi PCM utilized with this harness must be securely mounted away from
excessive heat, water or oil and road debris. We provide 5 feet (1.5 meters) of harness
between the main harness body and the PCM connectors. The harness also provides 3
feet (1 meter) of harness between the PCM harness breakout and the fuse block. So,
finding a spot to mount the PCM should not be a problem. Custom mounting brackets
will be required.

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Behind the dash board is always a good place to mount the PCM. Depending on
your dash board and whether or not your a/c evaporator box will allow for it, you
most likely can mount the PCM here.
Under the passenger seat is another good place to mount the PCM. The 5ft of
harness should allow you to mount the PCM here. Just be sure the seat has
enough clearance below it to not crush, scrape or damage the PCM or harness.
On some vehicles, behind the passenger kick panel, there is a cubby hole large
enough to mount the PCM. If your vehicle has this cubby hole feel free to mount
the PCM there.
Engine compartments usually have ample room that can be used for PCM mount
places. For instance, many vehicles have large cubby holes between the inner
fender, out fender and firewall. Sometimes this area is used for a/c evaporators
and blower motor mounting; so make sure the space does not already have a
planned occupation.
Harness routing and attachment:
Now that the fuse block and PCM are mounted you can move on to routing the harness
sections to their respective automobile locales. Take your time, leave enough slack in
the harness to accommodate body/engine/chassis movement and keep the harness
away from moving and/or hot parts. This complete wiring system, as well as this

13
instruction manual, has been designed with five major groups incorporated into it.
These groups are as follows.
Engine section:
This sections wires are to be routed out the center of the firewall, into the engine
compartment, and then to their respective component.
Includes wires and/or connectors that connect to the following: injectors, coils, engine
coolant temperature sensor, alternator, throttle position sensor, idle air control, cam
position sensor, manifold absolute pressure sensor, knock sensors, intake air
temperature sensor, mass air flow sensor, crank position sensor, vehicle speed sensor,
transmission solenoid pack, transmission mounted PRNDL switch, driver and
passenger pre-catalytic converter oxygen sensors, starter, a/c compressor, oil pressure
gauge sending unit, coolant temperature gauge sender and two engine grounds.
Dash section:
Includes fuse block, turn and hazard flashers, a horn relay, an interior ground
connection, and the appropriate wires to connect the following: a/c-heater switch, wiper
switch, ignition switch, headlight switch, turn signal switch, dimmer switch, cruise control
switch, radio, gauge cluster, cigar lighter, courtesy lights, OBD-2 diagnostic port
w/check engine light, driver and passenger power window/lock and speaker wires.
PCM section:
This section is to be routed to the powertrain control module.
Includes blue and red, 80 pin connectors for the powertrain control module.
Headlight section:
This section is to be routed out the driver side of the firewall, into the engine
compartment, and then to their respective components.
Includes wires and/or connectors that connect to the following: high and low beam
headlights, turn lights, park lights, grounds, brake switch, cooling fan 1 & 2, wiper motor,
cruise control module and horn.
Tail section:
This section is to be routed to the rear of the vehicle. You can either route this section
out into the engine compartment and then to the rear of the vehicle or route it under the
door sill plate and then to the rear of the vehicle.
Includes wires that connect to the following: fuel sending unit, electric fuel pump power
wire, reverse lights, left turn/brake/tails, license plate light, right turn/brake/tail lights,
grounds, amplifier activation wire and electric antenna activation wire.
Engine section:
To route the fuel injection engine section of this harness out into the engine
compartment you will be required to drill a 1 5/8” (41mm) hole in the firewall. Be sure to
de-burr the hole with a round file and to fold some duct or electricians’ tape around the

14
metal edge of the hole so as to not chafe the harness while inserting it. The harness
allows 4 feet (1.2 meters) of length between the fuse block and first major fuel injection
engine section break out. Make sure you measure where the hole should go according
to the harness break out.
When pushing a fuel injection harness through the firewall always start with the largest
connector. In this case the largest connector is the transmission solenoid connector.
After this connector is through the hole in the fire wall proceed to push all the other
connectors through. This process is always easier said than done and we suggest you
have a second person present to assist you with this. See photo below.
Once you have the entire fuel injection engine section through the fire wall hole begin to
sort and route the harness to it respective component. Notice that the harness is broke
out into several sections. Read each printed tag on the fuel injection section of the
harness and connect them to their respective component. All connectors are designed
with a key slot or pin configuration which requires directional insertion into its mating
component. Do not force the connector insertion as this will break it, its mating
component or bend the pins inside of either one. Route and connect the connectors to
their mating components as shown in the next few pages.
Lay the fuel injection harness out onto the engine and decide how to
secure it before making any connections:
1. Lay the driver side injector/coil break out onto the driver side fuel rail.
2. Lay the passenger side injector/coil break out onto the passenger fuel rail.

15
3. Feed the crank position sensor (CKP) connector and starter wires down to the
starter.
4. Feed the passenger oxygen sensor connector down to where its sensor will be
located.
5. Feed the transmission solenoid, vehicle speed sensor and park/neutral switch
connectors down towards the transmission.
6. Feed the driver oxygen sensor connector down to where its sensor will be
located.
7. Lay the intake air temp (IAT) and the mass air flow (MAF) connectors out to the
where the sensors will be mounted. Use some of the included tie wraps to
secure these wires to which ever injector bank you route it with.
Attach or connect the connectors and open ended wires for the
engine and transmission to their mating components.
1. Locate the two black/white engine ground wires (labeled Ground #1 and Ground
#2) which protrude from the main engine harness breakout near the back of the
intake manifold. These two ground wires need to be terminated using two of the
large yellow ring terminals from the parts bubble pack. You must separate
these grounds; bolt one to each engine head. See the diagram below for
more information on what these grounds are used for.
2. Plug the black, three pin, cam position sensor connector (labeled CMP) into the
cam position sensor located in the engine block at the back of the intake
manifold.

16
3. Plug the black, two pin, knock sensor connector (labeled KNOCK) into the knock
sensor pigtail which protrudes from underneath the rear of the intake manifold.
4. Plug the grey, three pin, manifold absolute pressure sensor connector (labeled
MAP) into the MAP sensor located at the center rear of the intake manifold.

17
5. Plug the 4, black, two pin, driver side, injector connectors into their mating
injector. #1 cylinder is at the front driver side of the engine.
6. Plug the white, seven pin, driver side coil connector (labeled DRVR COILS) into
the mating coil harness located on the driver side valve cover.

18
7. Plug the black, two pin, engine coolant temperature sensor connector (labeled
ECT) into the coolant temp sensor located just in front of the #1 cylinder exhaust
port on the driver side head.
8. Plug the black, three pin, throttle position sensor connector (labeled TPS) into the
throttle position sensor located on the side of the throttle body.

19
9. Plug the black, four pin, idle air control connector (labeled IAC) into the idle air
control stepper motor located on the side of the throttle body.
10.Route the red 6 gauge wire (labeled ALTERNATOR) to the charge lug on the
alternator. Cut it to length, insert it into the alternator boot provided in the parts
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