Palmgren 84315 User manual

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1155″″VVAARRIIAABBLLEESSPPEEEEDDWWOOOODDLLAATTHHEE
Read carefully and follow all safety rules and operating instructions before
first use of this product.
21124.09-0703

DDEESSCCRRIIPPTTIIOONN
Palmgren 38″variable speed wood lathe provides capability to
turn wooden workpieces up to 38″long and 4″diameter. This lathe
can also turn bowls up to 15″diameter and 4″thick. The motor
rotates at 1725 RPM and the spindle speeds are 360-2400 RPM.
Extended spindle allows convenient outboard turning.
UUNNPPAACCKKIINNGG
Refer to Figure 1.
Check for shipping damage. If damage has occurred, a claim must
be filed with carrier. Check for completeness. Immediately report
missing parts to dealer.
Your wood lathe is shipped complete in one carton and includes a
motor. Separate all parts from packing materials and check each
one with the unpacking list to make certain all items are account-
ed for before discarding any packing material.
If any parts are missing, do not attempt to assemble the lathe, plug
in the power cord, or turn the switch on until the missing parts are
obtained and properly installed.
A Headstock Assembly
BBed
C Tailstock Assembly
D Tool Rest Base Assembly
E Handle
F Parts Bag
G12″Tool Rest
H6″Tool Rest
IMPORTANT: The bed is coated with a protectant. To ensure prop-
er fit and operation, remove coating. Coating is easily removed
with mild solvents, such as mineral spirits, and a soft cloth. Avoid
getting cleaning solution on paint or any of the rubber or plastic
parts. Solvents may deteriorate these finishes. Use soap and water
on paint, plastic or rubber components. Wipe all parts thoroughly
with a clean dry cloth. Apply paste wax to the bed.
SPECIFICATIONS
Turning length (max.) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38″
Bowl diameter (max.) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15″
Overall length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60″
Overall height . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15″
Width . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8″
Spindle Speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 360 to 2400 RPM
Spindle Taper . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2MT
Spindle Thread . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1″-8
Tail Stock Taper . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2MT
Switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . SP, Locking rocker
Motor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120/240V, 12/6 AMPS
Weight . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175 lbs
SSAAFFEETTYYRRUULLEESS
CAUTION: Always follow proper operating procedures as defined
in this manual – even if you are familiar with use of this or similar
tools. Remember that being careless for even a fraction of a second
can result in severe personal injury.
BE PREPARED FOR JOB
• Wear proper apparel. Do not wear loose clothing, gloves, neck-
ties, rings, bracelets or other jewelry which may get caught in
moving parts of machine.
• Wear protective hair covering to contain long hair.
•Wear safety shoes with non-slip soles.
•Wear safety glasses complying with United States ANSI Z87.1.
Everyday glasses have only impact resistant lenses.They are
NOT safety glasses.
•Wear face mask or dust mask if operation is dusty.
•Be alert and think clearly. Never operate power tools when
tired, intoxicated or when taking medications that cause
drowsiness.
PREPARE WORK AREA FOR JOB
•Keep work area clean. Cluttered work areas invite accidents.
•Do not use power tools in dangerous environments. Do not use
power tools in damp or wet locations. Do not expose power
tools to rain.
•Work area should be properly lighted.
•Keep visitors at a safe distance from work area.
•Keep children out of workplace. Make workshop childproof. Use
padlocks, master switches or remove switch keys to prevent
any unintentional use of power tools.
•Keep power cords from coming in contact with sharp objects,
oil, grease, and hot surfaces.
TOOL SHOULD BE MAINTAINED
•Always unplug tool prior to inspection.
•Consult manual for specific maintaining and adjusting
procedures.
•Keep tool lubricated and clean for safest operation.
•Keep all parts in working order. Check to determine that the
guard or other parts will operate properly and perform their
intended function.
•Check for damaged parts. Check for alignment of moving parts,
binding, breakage, mounting and any other condition that may
affect a tool's operation.
•A guard or other part that is damaged should be properly
repaired or replaced. Do not perform makeshift repairs. (Use
parts list provided to order replacement parts.)
•Never adjust attachments while running. Disconnect power to
avoid accidental start-up.
•Have damaged or worn power cords replaced immediately.
•Keep cutting tools sharp for efficient and safest operation.
2
Palmgren Operating Manual & Parts List 84315
Figure 1 – Unpacking
A
D
C
E
H
B
G
F

3
SAFETY RULES (CONTINUED)
KNOW HOW TO USE TOOL
•Use right tool for job. Do not force tool or attachment to do a
job for which it was not designed.
•Disconnect tool when changing attachments.
•Avoid accidental start-up. Make sure that the tool is in the “off”
position before plugging in, turning on safety disconnect or
activating breakers.
•Do not force tool. It will work most efficiently at the rate for
which it was designed.
•Keep hands away from chuck, centers and other moving parts.
•Never leave tool running unattended.Turn the power off and
do not leave tool until it comes to a complete stop.
•Do not overreach. Keep proper footing and balance.
•Never stand on tool. Serious injury could occur if tool is tipped
or if centers are unintentionally contacted.
•Know your tool. Learn the tool's operation, application and spe-
cific limitations.
•Handle workpiece correctly. Mount firmly in holding devices.
Protect hands from possible injury.
•Turn machine off if workpiece splits or becomes loose.
•Use cutting tools as recommended in“Operation.”
WARNING: For your own safety, do not operate your wood lathe
until it is completely assembled and installed according to
instructions.
PROTECTION: EYES, HANDS, FACE, BODY, EARS
•If any part of your lathe is missing, malfunctioning , or has been
damaged or broken, cease operating immediately until the par-
ticular part is properly repaired or replaced.
•Wear safety goggles that comply with United States ANSI Z87.1
and a face shield or dust mask if operation is dusty. Wear ear
plugs or muffs during extended periods of operation.
•Small loose pieces of wood or other objects that contact a spin-
ning workpiece can be propelled at very high speed.This can
be avoided by keeping the lathe clean.
•Never turn the lathe ON before clearing the bed, head and tail-
stock of all tools, wood scraps, etc., except the workpiece and
related support devices for the operation planned.
•Never place your face or body in line with the chuck or face-
plate.
•Never place your fingers or hands in path of cutting tools.
•Never reach in back of the workpiece with either hand to sup-
port the piece, remove wood scraps, or for any other reason.
Avoid awkward operations and hand positions where a sudden
slip could cause fingers or hand to move into a spinning work-
piece.
•Shut the lathe OFF and disconnect power source when remov-
ing the faceplate, changing the center, adding or removing an
auxiliary device, or making adjustments.
•Turn key lock switch to “off” and remove key when tool is not in
use.
•If the workpiece splits or is damaged in any way, turn lathe OFF
and remove the workpiece from the holders. Discard damaged
workpiece and start with a new piece of wood.
•Use extra care when turning wood with twisted grain or wood
that is twisted or bowed – it may cut unevenly or wobble
excessively.
KNOW YOUR CUTTING TOOLS
• Dull, gummy, improperly sharpened or set cutting tools can
cause vibration and chatter during cutting operations.
Minimize potential injury by proper care of tools and regular
machine maintenance.
THINK SAFETY
Safety is a combination of operator common sense and alertness
at all times when the lathe is being used.
• For your own safety, read all rules and precautions in the opera-
tor's manual before using this tool.
•For eye protection, wear safety glasses complying with United
States ANSI Z87.1.
•Do not wear loose clothing, gloves, neckties, rings, bracelets or
other jewelry that could get caught in moving parts of machine
or workpiece.Wear protective hair covering to contain long
hair.
•Tighten all clamps, fixtures and tailstock before applying power.
Check to make sure that all tools and wrenches have been
removed.
•With switch off, rotate workpiece by hand to make sure that
there is adequate clearance. Start the machine on lowest speed
setting to verify that the workpiece is secure.
•For large pieces, create a rough shape on another piece of
equipment before installing on faceplate.
•Do not mount any workpieces that have splits or knots.
•Remove any center from spindle when using an outboard
device for auxiliary turning.
•Never attempt to remount a faceplate turning to the faceplate
for any reason.
•Never attempt to remount a between-centers turning if the
original centers on the turning have been altered or removed.
•When remounting a between-centers turning that has non-
altered original centers, make sure that the speed is at the low-
est setting for start-up.
•Use extra caution when mounting a between-centers turning
to the faceplate, or a faceplate turning to between-centers, for
secondary operations. Make sure that the speed is at the lowest
setting for start-up.
•Never perform any operation with this lathe where the work-
piece is hand-held. Do not mount a reamer, milling cutter, drill
bit, wire wheel or buffing wheel to the headstock spindle.
•When hand-sanding faceplate or between-centers mounted
workpieces, complete all sanding BEFORE removing the work-
piece from the lathe.
•Never run the spindle in the wrong direction. The cutting tool
could be pulled from your hands.The workpiece should always
turn towards the operator.
•For spindle turning, ALWAYS position the tool rest above the
centerline of the workpiece and spindle (approximately 1/8″).
•Use the drill chuck accessory in the tail stock only. Do not
mount any drill bit that extends more than 6″beyond chuck
jaws.
CAUTION: Follow safety instructions that appear on the head-
stock assembly for your lathe.
Palmgren Operating Manual & Parts List 84315

4
AASSSSEEMMBBLLYY
Refer to Figures 2 - 6.
CAUTION: Do not attempt assembly if parts are missing. Use this
manual to order replacement parts.
•Remove all components from the shipping carton and verify
against the parts list on page 2. Clean each component and
remove shipping preservatives (coatings) as required.
•After selecting an appropriate bench, table, or lathe stand, set
the bed towards the front and the left side.
•Turn bed on its side with the bottom of the bed facing towards
you and with the headstock end of the bed on the left side.
•Place headstock assembly on its side near the left end of the
bed. Install the threaded rods into the headstock.
•Move headstock into the bed so that the hub on the bottom of
the headstock seats into the hole in the bed. Place plate over
the eccentric shaft onto the threaded rods and secure in posi-
tion with hex nuts.
•Place lathe upright. Install locking handle into eccentric shaft.
Secure alignment pin chain to bed with screw. Position head-
stock so that spindle faces toward opposite end of bed. Insert
alignment pin through headstock into the bed. Install head-
stock in position by pulling locking handle forward. Secure
speed control knob using washer and screw.
•Slide the tool rest base assembly onto the bed. Make sure
clamping plate is oriented with slot in bed. Secure the position
with locking handle. Place 12″or 6″tool rest into base and
secure in position.
•Slide tail stock assembly onto the bed in the same manner as
the tool rest base. Install locking handle and secure in position.
•When the wood lathe is ready for use, it should appear as it
does in Figure 6.
•Examine the line cord to make sure that the plug is in good
condition and that the insulation has not been damaged dur-
ing transit.
IINNSSTTAALLLLAATTIIOONN
Refer to Figures 7 - 12.
MOUNTING LATHE TO BENCH
•Position the lathe assembly on top of a suitable stand or bench.
The headstock end should be close enough to a side edge so
that outboard operations can be performed without difficulty.
•Verify that the bed is resting flat on the bench top. Mark the
mounting hole locations using the holes in the bed as a guide.
Move the lathe and drill four 3/8″holes through the bench top.
Place the lathe back in position and feed four 5/16 x 2″carriage
bolts through the holes in the bed. Secure from underneath
with flat washers, lock washers, and hex nuts (not supplied).
STABILITY OF WOOD LATHE
If there is any tendency for the lathe to tip over or move during
certain cutting operations, such as cutting extremely heavy pieces
or long, out-of-round objects, the lathe should be bolted down.
LOCATION OF WOOD LATHE
The lathe should be positioned so that neither the operator nor a
casual observer is forced to stand in line with the spinning chuck.
INSTALLATION OF CENTERS
The spur center and the bearing center have Morse taper #2 to
match the spindle and tail stock bores.To install the centers, slide
them into the bores with a firm, swift movement.They will be fur-
ther secured when a workpiece is squeezed between the centers.
Palmgren Operating Manual & Parts List 84315
Figure 2 – Install Threaded Rods
Plate
Eccentric Shaft
Threaded Rod
Headstock
Bottom
Figure 3 – Mount Headstock
Figure 4 – Secure Headstock
Figure 5 – Tool Rest
Figure 6 – Completed Assembly
Bearing
Center
Locking
Handle
Locking Handle
Spur Center
Tool Rest
Bed
Headstock
Locking
Handles
Clamping Plate
Tailstock
Speed
Control
Knob
Alignment Pin
Locking Handle
Screw

5
Palmgren Operating Manual & Parts List 84315
INSTALLATION (CONTINUED)
REMOVAL OF SPUR CENTER FROM SPINDLE
•To remove the spur center from the spindle, insert the center
removal rod into the spindle and gently tap the center out.
Refer to Figure 7.
REMOVAL OF BEARING CENTER FROM RAM
•To remove bearing center from tail stock ram, turn handwheel
counterclockwise. Refer to Figure 8.
POWER SOURCE
WARNING: Do not connect wood lathe to the power source until
all assembly steps have been completed.
The motor is designed for operation on the voltage and frequency
specified. Normal loads will be handled safely on voltages not
more than 10% above or below specified voltage. Running the unit
on voltages which are not within range may cause overheating
and motor burn-out. Heavy loads require that voltage at motor ter-
minals be no less than the voltage specified on nameplate.
•Power supply to the motor is controlled by a single pole lock-
ing rocker switch. Remove the key in the rocker switch to pre-
vent unauthorized use.
GROUNDING INSTRUCTIONS
WARNING: Improper connection of equipment grounding conduc-
tor can result in the risk of electrical shock. Equipment should be
grounded while in use to protect operator from electrical shock.
•Check with a qualified electrician if grounding instructions are
not understood or if in doubt as to whether the tool is properly
grounded.
•This tool is equipped with an approved 3-conductor cord rated
at 300V and a 3-prong grounding type plug (see Figure 9) for
your protection against shock hazards.
•Grounding plug should be plugged directly into a properly
installed and grounded 3-prong grounding-type receptacle, as
shown (Figure 9).
•Do not remove or alter grounding prong in any manner. In the
event of a malfunction or breakdown, grounding provides a
path of least resistance for electrical shock.
WARNING: Do not permit fingers to touch the terminals of plug
when installing or removing from outlet.
•Plug must be plugged into matching outlet that is properly
installed and grounded in accordance with all local codes and
ordinances. Do not modify plug provided. If it will not fit in out-
let, have proper outlet installed by a qualified electrician.
•Inspect tool cords periodically and if damaged, have them
repaired by an authorized service facility.
•Green (or green and yellow) conductor in cord is the grounding
wire. If repair or replacement of the electric cord or plug is nec-
essary, do not connect the green (or green and yellow) wire to
a live terminal.
•Where a 2-prong wall receptacle is encountered, it must be
replaced with a properly grounded 3-prong receptacle installed
in accordance with National Electric Code and local codes and
ordinances.
WARNING: This work should be performed by a qualified electri-
cian.
A temporary 3-prong to 2-prong grounding adapter (see Figure 10)
is available for connecting plugs to a two pole outlet if it is proper-
ly grounded.
•Do not use a 3-prong to 2-prong grounding adapter unless
permitted by local and national codes and ordinances.
•(A 3-prong to 2-prong grounding adapter is not permitted in
Canada.) Where permitted, the rigid green tab or terminal on
the side of the adapter must be securely connected to a per-
manent electrical ground such as a properly grounded water
pipe, a properly grounded outlet box or a properly grounded
wire system.
•Many cover plate screws, water pipes and outlet boxes are not
properly grounded. To ensure proper ground, grounding means
must be tested by a qualified electrician.
Figure 9 – 3-Prong Receptacle
Grounding Prong
3-Prong Plug
Properly Grounded Outlet
Figure 7 – Spur Center Removal
Center
Removal Rod
Spur Center
Bearing Center
Handwheel
Figure 8
Figure 10 – 2-Prong Receptacle with Adapter
Make Sure This
Is Connected
To A Known
Ground
2-Prong Receptacle
Grounding Lug
Adapter
3-Prong Plug

6
Palmgren Operating Manual & Parts List 84315
INSTALLATION (CONTINUED)
EXTENSION CORDS
•The use of any extension cord will cause some drop in voltage
and loss of power.
•Wires of the extension cord must be of sufficient size to carry
the current and maintain adequate voltage.
•Use the table to determine the minimum wire size (A.W.G.)
extension cord.
•Use only 3-wire extension cords having 3-prong grounding
type plugs and 3-pole receptacles which accept the tool plug.
•If the extension cord is worn, cut, or damaged in any way,
replace it immediately.
Extension Cord Length
Wire Size A.W.G.
Up to 25 ft. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
NOTE: Using extension cords over 25 ft. long is not recommended.
MOTOR
The wood lathe is assembled with motor and wiring installed as an
integral part of the headstock assembly.
Horsepower . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Voltage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120/240
Amperes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12/6
Hertz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60
Phase . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Single
RPM . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1725
Rotation (viewed from left side) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Clockwise
ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS
WARNING: Make sure unit is off and disconnected from power
source before inspecting any wiring.
The motor is installed and wiring connected as illustrated in the
wiring schematic (see Figure 11).
The lathe is prewired for use on a 120 volt, 60HZ power supply. The
power supply to the motor is controlled by a single pole locking
rocker switch.
The power lines are inserted directly onto the switch. The green
ground line must remain securely fastened to the frame to proper-
ly protect against electrical shock.
•Remove the key to prevent unauthorized use.
240 VOLT OPERATION
•To use the lathe with a 240V, single-phase power supply, have a
qualified electrician attach a 240 volt, 15A 3-prong plug onto
lathe line cord and install the proper connectors and recepta-
cles to power supply.
•See wiring diagram (Figure 12) for wiring instructions.
OOPPEERRAATTIIOONN
Refer to Figures 13 - 78.
WARNING: Operation of any power tool can result in foreign
objects being thrown into the eyes, which can result in severe eye
damage. Always wear safety goggles complying with Unites States
ANSI Z87.1 (shown on package) before commencing power tool
operation. Safety goggles are available at Palmgren retail stores or
catalog.
CAUTION: Always observe the following safety precautions:
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
•Whenever adjusting or replacing any parts on the tool, turn
switch OFF and remove the plug from power source.
•Recheck all locking handles. They must be tightened securely.
•Make sure all moving parts are free and clear of any
interference.
•Make sure all fasteners are tight and have not vibrated loose.
•With power disconnected, test operation by hand for clearance
and adjust if necessary.
•Always wear eye protection or face shield.
•After turning switch on, always allow the spindle to come up to
full speed before turning.
•Be sure motor runs counterclockwise when viewing spindle
from the right end (inboard side of headstock).
•Keep hands clear of spindle, centers, faceplates and other mov-
ing parts of machine.
•For optimum performance, do not stall motor or reduce speed.
Do not force the tool into the work.
ON-OFF SWITCH
Refer to Figure 13.
Power supply to the lathe is controlled by the locking rocker
switch.To turn lathe on:
•Switch on the rocker switch.
To turn lathe off:
•Switch off the rocker switch.
The rocker switch has a removable key to prevent unauthorized
use or accidental start-up of the lathe. Removing the key will lock
the lathe from use.
To lock the lathe:
•Switch off the rocker switch.
•Disconnect the line cord from power source.
Figure 11 – Wiring Schematic
Green
L1
3241
L2
120V
Power
Motor
Figure 12 – Wiring Schematic
3
3
1
120V
240V
1
2
4
2
4
L1 L2
L1 L2

7
Palmgren Operating Manual & Parts List 84315
OPERATION (CONTINUED)
•Pull out the removable key.The key has the words,“Remove to
Lock”.
•Store key in a safe place
NOTE: With the key removed, the rocker can be “ROCKED”, but the
switch cannot be actuated.
To unlock the lathe:
•Position the rocker in the OFF position.
•Insert the key into the rocker.
•Connect line cord to power source.
•The switch can now be actuated.
CHANGING SPEEDS
To vary spindle speeds, rotate speed control knob to the desired
setting. Refer to speed chart for specific turning operations.
CAUTION: Change speeds only while motor is running:
SPINDLE TURNING
If you have never done any amount of wood turning, we suggest
that you practice using the various wood turning tools. Start with
a small spindle turning.
Be sure to study the following pages of this manual.They explain
and illustrate the correct use of the turning tools, the positioning
of the tool rest, and other information to help you gain experience.
•Select a piece of wood 2″x 2″x 12″.
•Draw diagonal lines on each end to locate the centers.
•On one end, make a saw cut approximately 1/16″deep on each
diagonal line.This is for the spur center.
•The other end uses the bearing center. Place the point of the
bearing center on the wood where the diagonal lines cross.
•Drive the bearing center into the wood. Use a wooden mallet or
a plastic hammer, but put a piece of wood on the end of the
bearing center to protect it from harm.
•Remove the bearing center and drive the spur center into the
other end of the wood. Make sure the spurs are in the saw cuts.
Remove the spur center.
•Make sure the centers and the hole in the spindle and the tail
stock ram are clean. Insert the spur center into the headstock
and the bearing center into the tail stock.Tap them in lightly
with a piece of wood. Do not drive them in.
•If the tail stock center is not of the ball bearing type, put a drop
of oil or wax on the wood where it contacts the center. This will
lubricate the wood while it is turning.
•Place the wood between the centers and lock the tail stock.
•Move the bearing center into the wood by turning the hand
wheel. Make sure that the bearing center and spur center are
“seated” into the wood in the holes made earlier. Rotate the
wood by hand while turning the hand wheel.
•Adjust the tool rest approximately 1/8″away from the corners of
the wood and 1/8″above the center line. Note the angled posi-
tion of the tool rest base. Lock the tool rest base and the tool
rest.
•Observe the speed chart (see page 16). For example, a 2″
square turning up to 18″long should run at 1100 RPM for
“roughing”. Rotate the wood by hand to make sure that the cor-
ners do not strike the tool rest and verify that the indexing pin
is not engaged.
INDEXING
Refer to Figure 18.
The spindle pulley has 24 equally spaced holes (15° apart).The index
pin passes through the spindle pulley, engages with one of the 24
holes and locks the spindle from turning while you put a mark on
the workpiece.
Rocker Switch
Speed Control Knob Removable Key
Figure 13
Figure 15
Figure 16
Figure 14
Diagonal Lines
on Both Ends
Figure 17
Figure 18 Index Pin Lever
Spindle Pulley

8
Palmgren Operating Manual & Parts List 84315
OPERATION (CONTINUED)
For example, to locate the position of six flutes on a cylinder:
•Open the upper rear cover.
•Pull back on index pin lever until the index pin engages one of
the 24 holes in the spindle pulley.
•Adjust the 12″tool rest to the centerline of the workpiece and
make a mark.
•Push index pin lever forward to release pin. Slowly rotate the
workpiece until pin is located 60° (4 holes) from initial position.
(The spindle pulley has a degree scale). Engage index pin into
the pulley and place another mark on the workpiece.
•Continue these steps until there are 6 marks on the workpiece.
•Bowl turnings or wheel turnings can be marked in the same
manner.
WARNING: The indexing pin must be disengaged for all other
operations on the lathe.
OUTBOARD TURNING
This technique makes it possible to do jobs on this machine that
are too large to mount conventionally. It is straight forward face-
plate turning, except, because of the work size, caution must be
taken and speeds must be restricted to minimums. If you antici-
pate doing outboard turning you must purchase a bowl turning
rest.The bowl turning rest is attached to the lathe bed.
CAUTION: Do not try to push this support when cutting. Do not
try to mount work so large that the motor must strain to turn it. If
you wish to experiment with this technique, do so with soft woods.
Let the heavier, harder wood come later.
To prepare the lathe for outboard turning, unlock the headstock by
pulling up on locking handle. Remove pin and rotate headstock
90°. Insert pin at outboard alignment hole and secure headstock
with locking handle.
USING WOODWORKING CHISELS
SELECTION OF CHISELS
Better chisels have handles approximately 10″long to provide
plenty of grip and leverage. Sharp tools are essential for clean, easy
work. Select tools that will take and hold keen edges.
THEORY OF TURNING
The two classes of chisels are those intended primarily for cutting,
and chisels used only for scraping.
•The cutting chisels are the gouge, skew and parting tool. These
are the most used.They are commonly sharpened to a razor
edge by honing on both sides.
•The scraping chisels are the flat nose, round nose and spear
point. These are not honed on the flat sides – the wire edges
produced by grinding are left on to aid in the scraping process.
Cutting and Scraping
•To cut, the chisel is held so that the sharp edge actually digs
into the revolving work to peel off shavings.
•To scrape, the chisel is held at a right angle to the work surface.
This tool removes fine particles instead of shavings.
Many operations require that the cutting chisels be used for scrap-
ing, but scraping chisels are practically never used for cutting.
Scraping dulls a chisel much faster, especially the razor sharp cut-
ting chisels.
Cutting is faster than scraping and produces a smoother finish
which requires less sanding. However, it is far more difficult to mas-
ter. Scraping, on the other hand, is far more precise and easier to
control.
Figure 21 – The Six Commonly Used Chisel Types
Figure 20 – Outboard Turning
Figure 19 – Bowl Turning Rest Figure 22
Cutting Chisel Scraping Chisel
Figure 23 Cutting Scraping

9
Palmgren Operating Manual & Parts List 84315
OPERATION (CONTINUED)
When You Can Cut and When You Must Scrape
There are two different approaches:
•One approach is toward a circumference of the workpiece (for
example turning down the outer surface of a cylinder or the
inner wall of a hollow round box). In this approach, the surface
being turned travels under the chisel edge like an endless belt.
•The second approach is toward the diameter of a workpiece (as
when turning the face of a faceplate turning, or the side of a
large shoulder on a spindle turning). In this approach, the sur-
face being turned rotates like a disc under the chisel edge.
•Sometimes the optimum approach will be a combination of
both methods.
Either a cutting or scraping action can be used when the approach
is toward a circumference – the shaving is removed like a peeling
from a potato. Scraping can only be used when the approach is
toward a diameter. The reason is obvious when you consider that
faceplate turning practically always requires removal of wood
across the grain.Wood does not peel easily across the grain and
attempts to use any inappropriate cutting methods will likely
result in damage to the workpiece.There is also danger that the
tool could be pulled from the hands of the operator.
In general, a cutting action is used for the majority of spindle turn-
ing operations while faceplate turning is usually accomplished by
the scraping method.When a combination approach is to be used,
the operator will have to judge, by the feel of the work, when to
stop cutting and start scraping. Never try to cut when it becomes
difficult to hold the chisel against the roughness of the wood grain.
How to Position Tool Rest for Circumference Cutting
When cutting, the object is to pierce the outer skin of wood to a
certain desired depth and then to hold the chisel steady with the
bevel edge parallel to the work circumference so that it will peel
off a shaving at this desired depth.
•The only sure method of holding the chisel steady is to rest the
bevel against the work (Figure 25A). When the tool rest is at the
proper height, the chisel can be held with the bevel pressed
against the work, and the tool rest will act as a fulcrum to sup-
port the chisel against the downward force of the revolving
work.
•If the rest is placed too low, so that the chisel is held with the
bevel out from the work (Figure 25B), the cutting edge will con-
tinue to dig deeper into the work. It will dig in until the “bite”
becomes so deep that your hands have difficulty holding the
chisel – then the improperly supported chisel will begin to
bounce or chatter against the workpiece.
•If the rest is placed too low, the chisel must be held extremely
high to position the bevel against the work (Figure 25C). Then
the rest loses most of its value as a fulcrum and the downward
force of the revolving workpiece tends to kick the chisel back
out of your hands.
•If the rest is placed too high (Figure 25D) and the chisel is cor-
rectly positioned for cutting, it strikes the workpiece near the
top where the direction of force exerted by the workpiece is
nearly horizontal – and kickback will again result.
•If the rest is placed too far out from the work surface (Figure
25E), then, when correctly held, the chisel is again too high on
the work. Also, you have less leverage on your side of the tool
rest and it is even more difficult to hold the chisel. With large
diameter work (Figure 25F), the tool rest can be above the
workpiece centerline, and somewhat out from the work sur-
face.With small diameter work (Figure 25G), the rest should be
closer to the work surface. As work grows smaller, the rest
should be repositioned.
How to Position Tool Rest for Circumference Scraping
In scraping operations, the tool rest position is not as critical as it is
for cutting operations.
•The chisel generally is held horizontally, though it can be held
at an angle to reach into tight places. Considering that the wire
edge of the chisel does the scraping, Figures 26B and 26C show
the results of too low or too high a position for the rest.
•Figure 26A shows the chisel action with the rest correctly
positioned.
How to Position Chisel and Rest for Diameter Scraping
When scraping on the diameter, that portion of surface to the right
of center is moving upward (Figure 27A). If a chisel is placed in this
area, it will simply be carried up off the rest and out of your hands.
•All diameter approach operations must be done at the left of
center.
Diameter
Approach
Circumference
Approach
Figure 24
Steady
Thrust
Against
Hands
Chatter
Kickback
Kickback
Bevel
Against
Work
Chisel Rest
Too High
On Work
Handle
Kicked Up
Large
Diameter
Small
Diameter
No Support
For
Bevel
Point
Digging In
Chisel Cutting Properly
Rest Too Distant - Chisel Too High
Point Too Far From Rest
Rest Too Low
Chisel Too Horizontal
Rest
Too Low
Chisel
Too High
Figure 25
Fig. 25A Fig. 25B Fig. 25C
Fig. 25D
Fig. 25G
Fig. 25E Fig. 25F
No Stock
Removed
Edge
Digging
In
Correct
Figure 26
Fig. 26A Fig. 26B Fig. 26C

10
Palmgren Operating Manual & Parts List 84315
OPERATION (CONTINUED)
Three different chisel contact points are shown in Figure 27B. It will
be noted that when a chisel is above the workpiece center (or
below it) the work surface sweeps past the chisel edge at an angle
and tends to carry the chisel in one direction or the other along
the rest.
•Only when the chisel contacts the work on the centerline, does
the work surface pass squarely under the chisel edge.This,
then, is the position in which it is easiest to hold the chisel
steady. To obtain this position, place the rest approximately
1/8″(thickness of chisel) below center.
USING THE GOUGE
Three gouges, the 1/4,1/2and 3/4″sizes, are adequate for general
homeshop turning. Other sizes from 1/8to 2″can be purchased to
provide more flexibility.
The chief use of the gouge is for rough circumference cutting of
raw stock down to a cylinder of working size. It is best to use this
tool for rapid cutting away of large areas of the workpiece.When
the tool is used this way, it does not produce a smooth surface.
With practice, the gouge can be used for cutting coves and the
shaping of long cuts.
•When used for cutting, the gouge is always held with the con-
vex side down. It should be rolled approximately 30° to 45° in
the direction in which it is being advanced along the rest and
the cutting edge should be slightly ahead of the handle.
USING THE SKEW
•Two skews, the 1/2and 1″sizes, are all that are needed for gen-
eral use. Other sizes are available.
This tool is nearly always used to make finished cuts, to cut vees
and beads, and to square shoulders. Properly used, it produces the
best finish that can be obtained with a chisel. It is not recommend-
ed for scraping because the edge tends to dull more quickly.
•For finish cutting, the skew is held with the cutting edge con-
siderably in advance of the handle, bevel side down. Keep the
base of the bevel against the work. It is good practice is to
place the skew well over the work, pull it back until the edge
begins to cut, then swing the handle into position to advance
the cut.
Both the toe and the heel of the skew can be used for taking light
cuts, but do not penetrate the wood too deeply without cutting
clearances.There is danger of burning the tip of the tool.
USING THE PARTING TOOL
The parting tool has just one primary purpose: to cut into the
workpiece as deeply as desired, or all the way through to make a
cut-off. It is, therefore, a very narrow tool (1/8″wide) and shaped to
cut its own clearance so that the edge will not be burned. When
used for scraping, however, the parting tool should be backed off
regularly to prevent overheating.
Unlike the gouge and skew, the parting tool is seldom held with
the bevel against the work. Since the amount of stock removal is
small, a support for the bevel is not necessary.
The tool is simply fed into the work at an angle (for cutting), or
pointed at the workpiece center (for scraping). It can be held easily
in one hand.
USING THE SCRAPING CHISELS
•A 1/2″wide spear point chisel, a 1/2″wide round nose chisel, and
a 1″wide flat nose chisel complete the list of tools ordinarily
used by craftsmen and hobbyists.
Each of these scraping chisels can be purchased in various other
sizes for special purposes. All are very useful for diameter scraping
operations and for circumference scraping when cutting methods
cannot be employed.
•The spear point is used for fine scraping and delicate opera-
tions such as the forming of beads, parallel grooves and shal-
low vees.
•Edges and bowl contours can be rounded with the round nose
chisel.
•Any flat surface can be scraped with the flat nose chisel.
USING SHAPER OR MOULDING KNIVES
•An old chisel can be made to serve as a holder for shaper or
moulding knives.
Figure 27
Fig. 27A Fig. 27B
Rest
Figure 28
Cutting Edge
Advanced Wrong
Right
Figure 29
Figure 30
Cutting Scraping
Figure 31
Spear
Point
Round
Nose
Flat nose

11
Palmgren Operating Manual & Parts List 84315
OPERATION (CONTINUED)
Such knives make it possible to scrape many interesting shapes
into the workpiece surface using one or two operations instead of
the many operations required with standard chisels. It is generally
not practical to use cutting methods with special shape tools.
Scraping methods should be used instead.
•The holder should provide a shoulder against which the butt
end of the knife can be firmly seated.The knife must be secure-
ly mounted, either by means of a screw threaded into the hold-
er, or by compressing it between two prongs bolted together.
USING A BLOCK PLANE
Clear, glass-smooth finishes (especially on softwoods) can be
obtained by using a block plane set to take a fine shaving.
•The tool rest should be raised up approximately to the top of the
workpiece – and the plane should be horizontal, but turned
slightly in the direction of travel so that it will take a shearing cut.
•Two tool rests, one in front and the other behind the work, can
be used to advantage in positioning the plane so as to exactly
limit the depth of cut (and finished size of the workpiece).
USING WOOD RASPS AND FILES
•A wood rasp will remove stock quickly when held against the
revolving workpiece. Care should be taken to support the rasp
firmly against the tool rest. An improperly held rasp, when used
on a rough surface, can kick back and cause operator injury.
•The rasp will leave a very rough finish.
•Finer finishes (similar to those produced by scraping) can be
obtained by using files in the same manner. Various types of
files can be used for shaping vees, beads, coves, etc. If pressed
too hard into the wood, some files can burn the workpiece.
•Keep the file clean to keep it cutting uniformly. Files work best
on hardwoods.
HAND POSITIONS
When using any of the chisels, the hand takes a natural position on
the tool handle.This position may be near the middle of the handle
or towards the end, depending upon the amount of leverage
required. The position of the hand near the tool rest is a matter of
individual preference, but there are three generally accepted posi-
tions, each best for certain types of operations.
Roughing Off
Roughing off and other heavy work requires a firm grip and solid
positioning of the chisel against the rest.This is best obtained by
the tool-rest hand positioned illustrated. The wrist is dropped down
so that the heel of the hand below the little finger acts as a sliding
guide against the rest.The handle hand controls chisel position.
Finish Cutting
Finish cutting requires more control – with less force. Finish cutting
is better done with the palm of the tool rest hand turned up. The
wrist is still held down, and the side of the index finger acts as a
guide along the rest. In this position, control of the chisel is shared
by both hands.The fingers of the tool-rest hand are free to assist in
positioning the tool.
Intricate Cutting
Intricate, delicate cutting requires extreme control with practically
no force. This is best accomplished by guiding the chisel with the
fingers of the tool-rest hand.The hand is held palm up with the
wrist high. The little finger is placed against the rest to steady the
hand.The chisel does not touch the rest and the handle hand is
completely secondary to the tool-rest hand.
NOTE: The first and second positions are equally good for scraping
operations, but the third position is practically never used for
scraping.
Cutting to Depth
Many scraping operations and cutting to depth with the parting
tool can be easily accomplished with the one hand.The chisel is
grasped firmly with the index finger on top to press it down
against the rest. It is thrust straight into the work. Holding the tool
in this manner leaves the other hand free to hold a pattern or
calipers, etc., to check work in progress.
Figure 32
Figure 33
Figure 34 – Using a Rasp
Figure 35 – Roughing
Figure 36 – Finish Cutting
Figure 37
Figure 38

12
Palmgren Operating Manual & Parts List 84315
OPERATION (CONTINUED)
MAKING STANDARD CUTS
THE ROUGHING-OFF CUT
Reducing a square or odd shaped workpiece down to a cylinder of
approximate size for finish turning is called “roughing-off”.
Faceplate turnings and large diameter spindles should first be
partly reduced by sawing, but small spindles are easily turned
down entirely with the large (3/4″) gouge.
•Start the first cut about 2″from tail stock end – then run it
toward the tailstock and off the end of the workpiece.
•Next, start another cut 2″nearer the headstock – and run it
back towards the tailstock, to merge with the first cut.
•Continue cutting in this manner until 2 to 4″from the head-
stock is left uncut. Reverse the direction of tool travel and work
one or two cuts in succession toward the headstock and off this
end of the workpiece.
•Never start a cut directly at the end – if the chisel catches the
end, it will damage the workpiece.
•Never take long cuts while corners remain on the work, as this
tends to tear long slivers from the corners.
•The first series of cuts should not be too deep. It is better to
partially reduce the work to a cylinder all along its length. After
that, start a second series of cuts to complete reducing it to a
cylinder.
•Once a cylinder has been formed, step lathe up to next faster
speed. Further reductions in size can now be accomplished by
cutting as deeply as desired at any spot along the work. At this
stage, long cuts can be made from the center to either end.
•Generally, roughing off is continued until the cylinder is
approximately 1/8″larger than the desired finished size.
•Roundness can be tested by laying the gouge on top of the
work – it will not ride up and down when cylinder is perfectly
round.
ROUGH-CUTTING TO SIZE
The roughing-off cut can be made to accurately size the cylinder
to a given diameter.
Another method is to make a number of sizing cuts at intervals
along the work, then use the gouge to reduce the whole cylinder
down to the diameter indicated by these cuts.
MAKING SIZING CUTS
Sizing cuts are useful to establish approximate finished size diame-
ters at various points along a workpiece.The work can then be
turned down to the diameters indicated and be ready for finishing.
•Diameters for sizing cuts should be planned to be about 1/8″
greater than the desired finish diameters. A sizing cut is made
with the parting tool.
•Hold the tool in one hand, and use the other hand to hold an
outside caliper preset to the desired sizing-cut diameter.
•As the cut nears completion, lower the chisel point more and
more into a scraping position.
•When the calipers slip over the workpiece at the bottom of the
groove, then the cut is finished.
SMOOTHING A CYLINDER
The final 1/8″can be removed in two ways. Either use the 1″skew,
working from the center toward both ends and taking lighter and
lighter cuts until finished, or use a block plane as illustrated in
Figure 29.
CUTTING A SHOULDER
A shoulder can be the side of a square portion left in the work-
piece, the side of a turned section, or the end of the workpiece.
Most shoulders are perpendicular to the work axis, but a shoulder
can be at any angle.
•First, mark position of the shoulder with a pencil held to the
revolving workpiece.
•Second, make a sizing cut with the parting tool, placing this cut
about 1/16″outside the shoulder position and cutting to within
about 1/8″of the depth desired for the area outside of the shoulder.
•If shoulder is shallow, the toe of the skew can be used to make
the sizing cut. Do not go in deeper than 1/8″with the skew un-
less wider and wider vees are cut to provide clearance for this tool.
•Use the gouge to remove any waste stock outside of shoulder.
Smooth this section, up to within 1/8″of shoulder, in the usual
manner. Finishing of the shoulder, unless it is more than 1″
high, is best done with the 1/2″skew.
•The toe of the skew is used to remove the shavings from the
side of the shoulder – down to finished size.
•Hold skew so the bottom edge of bevel next to the shoulder
will be very nearly parallel to side of shoulder – but with cut-
ting edge turned away at the top so that only the extreme toe
will do the cutting. If cutting edge is flat against shoulder, the
chisel will run.
Figure 39 Figure 41
Figure 40
First Cuts
Testing Roundness
Figure 42

13
Palmgren Operating Manual & Parts List 84315
OPERATION (CONTINUED)
•Start with handle low, and raise handle to advance toe into the
work.
•Cut down to finished diameter of outside area.Then, clean out
the corner by advancing heel of the skew into it along the sur-
face of the outside area.
•Tilt the cutting edge, with handle raised up so that only the
extreme heel does this cutting.
•If shoulder is at end of work, the process is called squaring the
end. In this case, reduce outer portion to a diameter about 1/4″
larger than tool center diameter.Then, later, saw off the waste
stock.
CUTTING VEES
Vee grooves can be cut with either the toe or heel of the skew.
•When the toe is used, the cutting action is exactly the same as
when trimming a shoulder except that the skew is tilted to cut
at the required bevel. Light cuts should be taken on first one
side and then the other, gradually enlarging the vee to the
required depth and width.
•When the heel is used, the skew is rotated down into the work,
using the rest as a pivot. Otherwise, cutting position and
sequence of cuts are the same. As when using the toe, it is impor-
tant that cutting be done only by extreme end of cutting edge.
•If deep vees are planned, it is quicker to start them by making a
sizing cut at the center of each vee.
•Vees can also be scraped with the spear point chisel or a three-
sided file.
CUTTING BEADS
This operation requires considerable practice.
•First, make a pencil line to locate the tops (highest points) of
two or more adjoining beads.
•Then, make a vee groove at the exact center between two lines
and down to the desired depth of the separation between the
beads. Be careful not to make the groove too wide or you will
remove portions of the desired beads.The sides of the two
adjoining beads are now cut with the heel of the skew. Use a
1/2″skew, unless beads are very large.
•Place skew at right angles with the work axis, flat against the
surface, and well up near the top. The extreme heel should be
just inside the pencil line that marks the top of the bead.
•Now, draw skew straight back while raising handle slowly –
until edge of the heel at the pencil line starts to cut.
•As edge begins to cut, roll skew in the direction of the vee so
that the exact portion of the edge which started cutting will
travel in a 90° arc down to bottom of the vee.
•Upon reaching bottom of the vee, the skew should be on edge.
•Reverse the movements to cut side of the adjacent bead.
It is important that only the extreme heel should do the cutting.
This means that the bottom edge of the bevel next to the vee
must at all times be tangent to the arc of the bead being formed.
Easier beads can be shaped with the spear point chisel.
•Use pencil marks and sizing cuts as before.
•Push the chisel straight into each cut and rotate horizontally to
round off the adjacent edges. It must be moved slightly in the
direction of rotation at the same time to keep the point from
digging into the adjacent bead (see Figure 46).
CUTTING COVES (CONCAVES)
This is the most difficult single cut to master – but one of the most
important in good wood turning.
•First, use pencil marks to indicate the edges.
•Then, rough out the cove, to within about 1/8″of the desired fin-
ished surface, by scraping with the gouge or round nose chisel.
If the cove is to be very wide, sizing cuts can be made to plot
the roughing out. Once it is roughed out, the cove can be fin-
ished in two cuts, one from each side to the bottom center.
•At the start of either cut, gouge is held with handle high and
the two sides of blade held between the thumb and forefinger
of tool rest hand, just behind the bevel.
•Position the fingers so that they are ready to roll the blade into
cove.
•Hold blades so that bevel is at 90° angle to the work axis with
point touching the pencil line and pointed into work axis.
•From this start, depress point slightly to start cut, then continue
to move point down in an arc toward the bottom center cove –
at the same time rolling chisel uniformly so that, at the end of
the cut, it will be flat at the bottom of the cove.The object is to
keep the extreme point of gouge doing the cutting from start
to finish. Reverse these movements to cut the opposite side.
Coves also can be scraped to finish using the round nose chisel or
a rattail file.These methods do not generally produce perfectly
curved coves.
Wrong Right
Bevel
Figure 43
Figure 44
Swing Tool
Figure 45 – Cutting Beads
Cutting Coves
Pencil Mark
Tool RestGouge
Figure 47
Bevel Tangent To Work
Start Finish
Figure 46

14
Palmgren Operating Manual & Parts List 84315
OPERATION (CONTINUED)
MAKING LONG CONVEX CUTS
•First, turn work down to approximate size, using sizing cuts (as
required) to determine various diameters. Finish cuts can then
be made with either skew or gouge.
•If the skew is used, the principles of the operation are the same
as those employed in cutting a bead – except that the curve is
longer and may be irregular. Use the extreme heel throughout
– start at longer end of curve (if curve is irregular) and progress
toward steeper end.
•If gouge is used, make cut in the same direction. Start with the
handle well back of point – swinging handle in the direction of
tool travel to overtake the point, if necessary, when the steep
part of the curve is reached. Object is to have the extreme
point doing the cutting throughout with the bevel as tangent
to curve as possible.
MAKING LONG TAPER CUTS
Long taper cuts are made like long convex cuts, with the skew or
gouge. However, the angle between the cutting edge and handle is
kept constant during the entire cut.The handle is not swung around.
•Always cut downhill. Do not cut too deeply at the center of the taper.
SPINDLE TURNINGS
PLOTTING THE SHAPE
Once the basic cuts have been mastered, you are ready to turn out
finished work.
•The first step is to prepare a plan for the proposed turning.This
can be laid out on a suitable sheet of paper. The layout should
be to full size.
•Next, prepare the turning stock by squaring it up to the size of
the largest square or round section in your plan.The stock can
be cut to the exact length of the proposed turning. However, in
most cases, it is best to leave the stock a little long at one or
both ends to allow for trimming.
•Mount the stock in the lathe and rough it off to a maximum-
size cylinder.
•Now, project your plan onto the turning by pencil marking the
various critical dimensions along the length of the spindle.
These dimensions can be laid out with an ordinary ruler or by
using a template. Make the pencil marks about 1/2″long so they
will be visible when the work is revolved under power. The lines
can be quickly traced around the spindle by touching each line
with the pencil.
•After marking, use the parting tool to make sizing cuts at all of
the important shoulders. When learning, you will find it best to
make sizing cuts to accurately plot the various diameters.
Experienced wood workers can manage with fewer such cuts at
the important shoulders.
•Plan each sizing cut so that it is in waste stock and make each
cut deep enough so that there will be just enough wood left
under the cut for the finishing process.
•Once the sizing cuts have been completed, rough-out the
excess wood with a gouge.Then, proceed with the finishing
process by making the various types of cuts required.
RECOMMENDED SPEED
Always follow recommended speed to do spindle turning depend-
ing upon the size and length of workpiece.
DUPLICATE TURNINGS
Identical turnings require great accuracy when plotting the work
and performing the various cuts. Many methods have been
devised to aid in perfecting the work.
Use of Patterns
Professional workers generally use a pattern or layout board. This is
a thin piece of wood or cardboard upon which is drawn a full-size
half section of the turning.The contour of the finished surface is
drawn first.Then, the diameters at various critical points are drawn
to scale as vertical lines intersecting the contour line.
•By placing the pattern against the roughed-out cylinder, you
can quickly mark the various points of the critical diameters.
•To make each sizing cut, use outside calipers and set these by
actually measuring the length of the vertical lines on the pat-
tern which represent the diameters desired. Make the sizing cut
down to the proper diameter by using the calipers to deter-
mine when the cut is finished.
•After making the sizing cuts, hang the pattern behind the lathe
where it will serve as a guide for completion of the workpiece.
Figure 48 – Chisel Inclined in Direction of Cut
Figure 50
SQUARE
1 to 2″
1 to 2″
1 to 2″
2 to 4″
2 to 4″
2 to 4″
4″Plus
4″Plus
4″Plus
LENGTH
1 to 12″
to 24″
to 38″
1 to 12″
to 24″
to 38″
1 to 12″
to 24″
to 38″
ROUGH
RPM
1300
1100
1000
1000
900
700
800
600
400
FINISH
RPM
2000
2000
2000
1800
1600
1400
1400
1100
800
Tenon
Diameters
11/4″
11/2″11/2″
11/4″13/4″17/8″111/16″11/4″19/16″
141/4″
21/16″21/4″
21/4″21/4″
2″1″
Sizing Cuts
Figure 49
31/8″

15
Palmgren Operating Manual & Parts List 84315
OPERATION (CONTINUED)
Using a Template and a Diameter Board
When many identical turnings are to be produced, it is convenient
to have a prepared template. This can be made of thin wood or
cardboard. It is cut on a band saw or scroll saw to have the exact
contour or the finished turning. The number one finished turning
can also be used as a template. Attach the template to a board and
then mount the board behind the lathe, on hinges, so that the
template can be moved down to touch the workpiece and allow
you to closely observe progress of your work.
If a great many turnings are being produced, a diameter board will
save the time used for resetting calipers. This is simply a thin board
along the edge of which a number of semicircular cuts have been
prepared to represent all the various caliper settings required for
measuring the sizing cuts. Each semi-circular cut is held against the
workpiece instead of using the calipers.
LONG SPINDLES
A long turning can be worked in short sections, with joints
arranged to be at shoulders where they will not be noticed.
•Long thin work that is likely to whip while turning should be sup-
ported at one or two places by a backstick.This is easy to make. A
simple backstick consists of a short length of wood mounted ver-
tically in an extra tool rest and notched so that it can be used to
support the spindle from behind. An improved type, which uses 2
roller skate wheels to form the notch, also is shown.
•Position the backstick against a pre-turned portion near the
center of the spindle, this portion being at least 1/8″over finish
size to allow for later removal of any marks made upon it.
•Operate lathe at a slower speed than normal. Lubricate the
workpiece at point of contact with the backstick. Use beeswax
(preferred), lard or grease.
•After completing the turning, remove the backstick and finish
off the original point of contact. Sand off any slight burns
remaining on workpiece.
CUTTING DOWELS
Dowels of any size can be turned quickly with the simple jig shown.
If the stock is prepared as a split or quartered turning, half round and
quarter rounds will be produced.
The jig uses a 1/2″gouge as the cutting tool and will produce dow-
els up to 7/16″diameter. Make the jig from suitable hardwood stock
as shown.
•The hole through the jig must be large enough at the side to
the left of the gouge to allow passage of the square stock. At
the right of the gouge, this hole must be just the diameter of
the finished dowel. Make the jig so that you can hold and guide
it by hand.
•To start, center the stock like a spindle turning and turn down
about 2″at the right end to desired size.
•Then, remove the stock. Place your jig over the turned end, with
turned portion through the smaller jig hole, and recenter the
stock on the lathe.
•Hold the jig firmly and start the lathe.
•Push the jig slowly right to left along the stock until the whole
dowel is completed.
MISCELLANEOUS OPERATIONS
GUIDE BLOCKS FOR SCRAPING OPERATIONS
A guide block can be clamped to a chisel to limit the depth of cut
and aid in the production of perfect cylinders, tapers and facings
on faceplate turnings. Scraping methods must be used when the
guide block is employed.
DRILLING
There are several methods of using the lathe for drilling center
holes through wood stock.When the drill is properly mounted,
centering of the hole is automatic.
•One method is to mount a drill in the tail stock.The workpiece
is held and revolved by the headstock. If the drill has a Morse
taper shank, it can be mounted directly in some tail stock rams.
Otherwise, it can be mounted in a chuck fitted with the proper
type shank.
•Another method of holding the drill is to mount it in the head-
stock using a 4-jaw (metal-lathe) chuck or a Jacobs chuck.
When this method is employed, there is no accurate support
for the workpiece so that center drilling is difficult. However,
cross drilling, or drilling random holes through stock can be
accomplished quickly in this manner.
Using a Template
Using a Diameter Board
Figure 51
Figure 52 – Use of Backsticks
Figure 53
Figure 55
Figure 54

16
Palmgren Operating Manual & Parts List 84315
OPERATION (CONTINUED)
•For cross drilling flat sided work, use a (metal-lathe) drill pad in
the tail stock and place a scrap board between the pad and the
work. For cross drilling round stock, use a (metal-lathe) crotch
center in the tail stock. Large workpieces can be located on
supporting blocks laid upon the lathe bed. They can be held by
hand or can be supported from behind by a drill pad mounted
in the tail stock.
FACEPLATE AND CHUCK TURNINGS
PLANNING THE WORK
Make a layout first, to provide a visual pattern to follow while work-
ing the turning. Pattern can be laid out in the same manner as spin-
dle patterns – or templates can be made which can be held against
the work for visual comparison. Circles to locate the various critical
points (at which the contours of the faceplate take distinct form) can
be quickly scribed on the rotating work by using the dividers.
PLANNING VARIOUS CUTS
The circumference of a faceplate turning is roughed-out and fin-
ished in the same manner that a spindle is worked. Practically all of
the balance of the operations, however, are done by using scraping
methods. A few of the standard contours which must often be
tuned are illustrated in the accompanying sketch which also shows
the proper chisels for shaping these contours. Any roughing out to
depth is generally accomplished with the gouge held in the scrap-
ing position.
RECOMMENDED SPEED
Always follow recommended speed to do faceplate and chuck
turning depending upon the size and thickness of workpiece.
DEEP RECESSES
•The first step is to remove as much wood as possible by boring
into the center with the largest wood bit available.This can be
accomplished as illustrated in Figure 59. Be careful to measure
in advance the depth to which drill can be allowed to go.
•Now, remove the bulk of the waste (to rough-out the desired
recess) by scraping with the round-nose chisel or the gouge.
Remove up to within 1/8″of finished size in this manner. Finish
off the inside circumference by scraping with the spearpoint
chisel or skew. Smooth the bottom of the recess by scraping it
flat with the flat nose chisel.
•Proper support must be provided at all times for the scraping
chisels. Several tool rest positions are shown in the accompany-
ing illustrations. Always endeavor to position the part of the
rest that supports the tool as close to the working surface as
possible.The depth and squareness of the sides of the recess
can be quickly checked by holding one of the straight sided
chisels and a combination square as shown.
FANCY FACEPLATE TURNINGS
PREPARING A PLUG CHUCK
A plug chuck is an auxiliary wood chuck mounted onto a faceplate.
The chuck can be any size diameter, but it should be about 11/2″
thick for stability. The wood chuck should be provided with a 3/4or
7/8″hole in the center for receiving a tenon turned at the end of
the workpiece.
Figure 58
Figure 56 – Cross Drilling
Use of Template
Spear-Point
Chisel
Measuring
Depth
Round Nose
Chisel
Spear Skew
Square
Nose
Round
Nose
Figure 57
Figure 59 – Boring to Depth
Figure 60
SQUARE
4 to 7″
4 to 7″
4 to 7″
8 to 11″
8 to 11″
8 to 11″
12 to 15″
12 to 15″
12 to 15″
THICKNESS
Up to 2″
2 to 4″
4″Plus
Up to 2″
2 to 4″
4″Plus
Up to 2″
2 to 4″
4″Plus
ROUGH
RPM
1300
1200
1000
1000
900
700
700
550
400
FINISH
RPM
2000
2000
2000
1800
1700
1400
1200
1000
800

17
Palmgren Operating Manual & Parts List 84315
OPERATION (CONTINUED)
Once made, such chucks are permanent useful fixtures for turning
balls, goblets, etc. In use, the wood stock for turning is turned be-
tween centers to produce a tenon at one end which will be a driving
fit in the hole of the chuck.When mounted in the chuck, the work-
piece is substantially supported for any faceplate type of turning.
TURNING CYLINDERS
Stock for cylinders should be mounted on the screw center or a
small faceplate.The tail stock can be brought up to support the
work while the circumference is being turned and finished.
Afterwards, the tail stock is backed off and the outer end of the
cylinder is recessed, using methods already described for making
deep recesses.
•After making a recess at least 1/2of the way through the work-
piece, and finishing this on the inside, remove the workpiece
from the lathe.
•Now mount a short length of softwood stock on the screw cen-
ter and turn this down to form a dowel that will be a tight press
(not driving) fit inside the recessed end of the cylinder.
•Mount the cylinder on this wooden chuck, and recess the
unworked end deep enough to form a perfect hole through
the entire cylinder.
RECHUCKING
Rechucking is the general term used to describe any additional
work mounting that is necessary to complete a turning project.
The method of working cylinders, and the use of a plug chuck as
already described are typical examples. Another good example is
the rechucking of a bowl.
•The work is mounted on a wood backing block secured to the
large faceplate and it is turned in the usual manner. All surfaces
are cut except the back side (which is against the mounting
block). The work is then removed from the mounting block.
•An auxiliary chuck of softwood is now made in the same man-
ner that the cylinder chuck is made. This chuck must have a
turned recess properly sized to accommodate the rim of the
bowl in a tight press fit.
•When the bowl is mounted in this chuck, the bottom can be
cleaned off and slightly recessed to complete the desired
contours.
TURNING A RING
One method of turning a ring requires a spindle chuck.
•The work stock is first mounted to a backing block held by the
large faceplate and is turned to shape on the outer side. The
inside diameter of the ring is also shaped – all the way through
to the backing block.
•The work is then removed from the backing block.
•A spindle chuck is now prepared so that it will be a tight press
to fit inside the ring.The ring is reversed and mounted on this
chuck. With the ring mounted, the remaining contours can be
turned to shape.
Another method of turning a ring makes use of a recessed chuck.
•The work stock is mounted on a screw center and one half of
the ring is formed, but the ring is not cut away from its center.
•The stock is then removed, and a recessed chuck – mounted on
the large faceplate – is prepared to receive the ring in a tight
press fit.
•After being chucked, the remaining face of the ring can be turned
to the proper contour, thus cutting away the center portion.
•In work of this type, take constant measurements or, better yet,
use a template to guard against over or under cutting.
TURNING BALLS
•Wooden balls of large size are first roughly turned between
centers, using standard procedures.
Figure 61
Figure 62
Figure 63
Figure 64
Figure 66 123 4
Figure 65

18
Palmgren Operating Manual & Parts List 84315
OPERATION (CONTINUED)
•Smaller balls can be mounted as faceplates on the small face-
plate or screw center.
•Lines drawn to indicate the center and ends of the ball shape
are helpful in plotting the curve.
•A template should always be used for accurate visual observa-
tion of the work progress.
If the ball is mounted as a faceplate turning, almost the entire sur-
face can be turned before it becomes necessary to rechuck it.
•Rechucking can be be accomplished in a deep cup chuck which
will hold the finished portion of the ball in a tight press fit.
Another method of rechucking is to use a shallow cup chuck
which will not support the ball alone, but must be used in conjunc-
tion with the tail stock.
•When using the shallow chuck, a wood block is fitted to the tail
stock so that the ball can revolve upon it. This block should be
lubricated with beeswax or grease.
•In using the shallow chuck method, the ball is constantly shift-
ed – never more than 1/8turn – and always in a definite pattern.
•Since turning between centers makes the work a perfect
sphere across the grain, the ball must be mounted in the chuck
so that the first scraping cuts will round it up in the opposite
direction.
TURNED BOXES
Turned boxes involve deep recessing together with a special sys-
tem of working the lid and body of the box together as one unit.
•The inside of the lid is turned first.
•Next, the inside of the body is turned. A careful check must be
made when turning the lip of the body portion so that the lid
will be a tight press fit.
•The lid is then pressed onto the body and the outer circumfer-
ence and face of the lid, together with the outer circumference
of the body, are turned all at one time.This insures accurate
matching of the two pieces.
•After the work is complete, the tight fit of the lid can be
relieved by sanding the lip of the body.
SEGMENTED TURNINGS
Segmented bowls and boxes are exceptionally attractive – and this
method of preparing wood stock is more economical than the use
of a large piece of stock. For some types of work, segmenting is the
only practical method because a block (if obtainable) would be so
large that it would be very likely to warp.
•The bowl illustrated in Figure 66 requires 12 segment pieces for
the sides. Bowls can also be worked with 6 or 8 pieces.
•To make the 12-piece bowl, a board about 1/8x 3 x 30″is cut
into pieces about 21/2″long, the saw blade being tilted 15° and
the board being turned alternately face up and face down to
make the successive cuts.
•These 12 pieces are glued together and clamped by wrapping
the assembly with wire (or equivalent).
•When dry, the rim thus formed is glued to a temporary circular
backing which is mounted on a large faceplate.
•A 3/4″deep recess of the largest possible diameter is turned in
the open end of the rim.
•The rim is removed from the lathe and stock for the bottom is
mounted in its place on a second faceplate.This is turned to
size – and a rim about 1/8″deep is turned to exactly fit the
recess prepared in the rim.
•The rim is then fitted over the bottom and glued, making a
drum shape with a faceplate at each end.
•This drum is cut completely in two at a point about 3/4″above
the bottom – completing the cut with a hand saw.
•Both parts of the cut surface are faced off square and smooth –
then reglued together, breaking the joints exactly half and half.
The cutting and regluing process is repeated with a section
about 11/4″wide.
•After this, the temporary backing block is cut off, leaving the
bowl as shown in the final illustration. From this point on, the
work is simply a matter of turning down the bowl to any
desired shape.
Figure 67
Figure 69
Figure 68
Screw Center
Backing Block
Lids Body
Lid
Face Plate
B.B.
Tailstock
Center
Woodblock
Shallow Bearing Center
Deep Cup Chuck
Figure 71
Figure 70

19
Palmgren Operating Manual & Parts List 84315
OPERATION (CONTINUED)
TURNING PLASTICS
TYPES OF PLASTICS
There are two general groups of plastics.The first includes all phenol
plastics molded under heat and pressure. Bakelite and Formica are
examples. In the second are all catalyst setting plastics of various
bases sold under such trade names as Lucite, Catalin, Cast Bakelite,
Marblette,Tenite and Trafford.Those in the second group are most
generally used for craft work.They are easy to turn, being a little
harder than wood, but much softer than any of the soft metals.
MOUNTING THE WORK
The most useful mounting device is the 4-jaw (metal lathe) chuck.
When this is not available, cylinders can be mounted on a slightly
tapered wooden mandrel. Rods can be mounted between centers,
using either the wood mounting centers or metal mounting arrange-
ments.When the spur center is used, slots should be sawed across
the work.
USE OF WOOD TURNING CHISELS
Standard wood turning chisels are excellent for turning plastics by
means of scraping methods.
•The tool rest should be slightly below center and the chisel
handle should be held a little higher than the cutting edge to
give a negative rake.
•Scraping tools should be kept to a minimum. A large contact
area, such as the full edge of the spear-point chisel, will cause
chatter and probable chipping.
•Properly worked, the chip comes off in a continuous ribbon.
•In cold weather, plastic may become brittle and should be tem-
pered in warm water for about ten minutes before turning.
USE OF FORMED TOOLS FOR PRODUCTION BEADING AND
SIMILAR OPERATIONS
When a number of identical pieces are to be produced, all having a
distinctive surface pattern, preformed tools will speed the work
and assure uniformity. Patterns like those illustrated can be created
by grinding thin (.020 to .010″) gauge aluminum strips. A holder,
like the one shown, can then be used to support any of your pre-
pared strips and to guide it against the workpiece.
TURNING BALLS
Plastic balls are rough turned in the usual manner and then brought
to perfect roundness by using a tube tool.The tube should be slight-
ly less in diameter than the finished size of the ball. It can be brass or
steel, ground square across the end.The tool is used with or without
a rest, and is worked by swinging it from side to side.
POLISHING PLASTICS
Start with sanding.
•First use 150-grit dry paper to remove tool marks.
•Then finish off with 150-grit and 400-grit papers, in succession.
These abrasives should be wet.
•Press lightly to avoid overheating and marring the work.
•Buffing gives the final polish, using the polishing compounds
commonly supplied for this purpose. Do not press too hard or
hold the wheel at one spot too long – keep moving around –
otherwise the plastic might become heat marked.
SANDING, BUFFING AND POLISHING
USING THE LATHE TO SAND TURNINGS
•Turnings should be sanded with the lathe running in second
lowest speed.
•A large sheet of sandpaper is useful for smoothing cylinders.
•All other sanding operations are done with a narrow strip of
abrasive paper. The best finishing grit is 3/0 for softwood, 4/0
for hardwoods. Worn 2/0 paper is often used, and is the equiva-
lent of 3/0 or 4/0 new paper.
The application of the sandpaper strip is shown in the illustrations.
•Care must be exercised in order to prevent dubbing the corners
of beads, shoulders, etc.
Figure 75
Figure 72
Figure 73
Figure 74
Figure 76
Coves
Swing
Wood Fibers
Sandpaper
Sandpaper
Fibers Lifted and Cut Off

20
Palmgren Operating Manual & Parts List 84315
OPERATION (CONTINUED)
USE OF SANDING DRUMS
Refer to Figure 77.
Standard sanding drums are usually rubber cylinders which can be
expanded to hold an abrasive sleeve in place. Similar cylinders,
turned on the lathe and covered with abrasive paper, will be ade-
quate for the job. These have the advantage that special sizes,
tapers, etc. can be made. Adhesive papers must be glued to the
cylindrical surface precisely and completely.
The drum is used mainly for sanding the edges of curved work.
•The squareness of the edge of the work can be best retained by
using a simple form of vertical fence as shown.
•The standard sanding drums are commonly made with a
threaded hole to fit the lathe drive spindle.
•To guard against loosening of the taper shank while the drum
is in operation, it is advisable to support the free end, using
either a ballbearing or plain 60° center in the tail stock.
USE OF WOOD CHUCKS FOR SANDING
Quick-acting chucks can be very useful for sanding operations on
duplicate production parts. The chuck is made slightly oversized,
and a piece of rubber hose (for small parts) is inserted in the recess
to grip the workpieces.
MMAAIINNTTEENNAANNCCEE
WARNING: Make certain that the unit is disconnected from power
source before attempting to service or remove any component.
CLEANING
Keep machine and workshop clean. Do not allow sawdust to accu-
mulate on the tool. Keep centers clean.
Be certain motor is kept clean and is frequently vacuumed free of
dust.
Use soap and water to clean painted parts, rubber parts and plastic
guards.
LUBRICATION
The shielded ball bearings in this tool are permanently lubricated
at the factory. They require no further lubrication.
KEEP TOOL IN REPAIR
•If power cord is worn, cut, or damaged in any way, have it
replaced immediately.
•Replace any damaged or missing parts. Use parts list to order
parts.
Any attempt to repair motor may create a hazard unless repair is
done by a qualified service technician. Repair service is available at
your nearest Palmgren store.
REPLACING WORN FAN BELT
Refer to Figure 79.
•Remove upper rear cover (1 screw).
•Remove top cover (4 screws).
•Remove front cover.
•Remove and replace belt.
•Assemble in reverse order.
REPLACING WORN VARIABLE SPEED BELT
Refer to Figures 79 and 80.
NOTE: a mechanical jaw puller and snap ring pliers are required to
perform this operation.
•Remove upper rear cover (1 screw).
•Remove top cover (4 screws).
•Remove rear cover (4 screws).
•Remove snap ring from drive shaft.
•Remove 4 socket head bolts from plate.
•Using puller, remove plate, bearing and pulley.
•Remove snap ring, cap, spring and pulley from spindle shaft.
CAUTION: Cap is spring loaded and in tension.
•Remove and replace belt.
•Assemble in reverse order.
Figure 80
Top Cover
Rear Cover
Front Cover
Figure 79
Upper Rear
Cover
Drive Shaft
Spindle
Plate
Cap
Figure 77
Figure 78