Pergola kits USA SERENITY User manual

Page | 1
WOOD 4 BEAM PERGOLA INSTRUCTIONS
Thank you for purchasing the 4 Beam Wood Pergola. Depending on the size of the
pergola, installation can usually be completed in a day. These instructions apply to both
cedar and treated pine models.
Consider a few details before starting assembly:
1. The base for the pergola must be solid and level. If installing on a concrete slab or
on concrete footers, it should be level where the posts will rest. If not, it may be
necessary to cut the top of the posts so that the tops are all level. Other than this,
no cutting is necessary. If any additional cuts are needed, please contact us before
doing so. Making cuts without calling first may make installation difficult and
may void our warranties.
2. These instructions show connection to asphalt using a wedge bolt. The same
method can be used with concrete. If connecting to an existing deck, a lag bolt
and deck screws (not included) will replace the wedge bolt.
3. The 4 beam pergola does not give the ability to alter the location of the posts. It is
important they are laid out correctly and double checked for accuracy before
permanently attaching it to the base.
SERENITY CEDAR PERGOLA KIT
FREESTANDING
ASSEMBLY MANUAL
Shown – 10’x14’ Serenity Cedar Pergola Kit

Thank you for purchasing the 4 Beam Wood Pergola. Depending on the size of the
pergola, installation can usually be completed in a day. These instructions apply to
both cedar and treated pine models.
There are a few things you should consider before installation:
1.) Do not store the Pergola components in direct contact with ground concrete, or
other moisture wicking surface as this may warp the components.
2.) The base for the pergola must be solid and level. If installing on a concrete slab
or on concrete footers, it should be level where the posts will rest. If not, it may be
necessary to cut the bottom of the posts so that the tops are all level. Other than this,
no cutting is necessary. If any additional cuts are needed, please contact us before
doing so. Making cuts without calling first may make installation diicult and
may void our warranties.
3.) These instructions show connection to asphalt using a wedge bolt. The same
method can be used with concrete. If connecting to an existing deck, a lag bolt and
deck screws (not included) will replace the wedge bolt.
4.) The 4 beam pergola does not give the ability to alter the location of the posts.
It is important they are laid out correctly and double checked for accuracy before
permanently attaching it to the base.
* If you purchased a Pergola with the Heavy Duty Post Brackets, refer to the additional
instruction sheet that will be included in your kit.

1
Page | 3
Setting up the template:
1. Your pergola kit includes a wooden template that is
used to mark your post locations. Notice that two of
the 2x4 boards have a marking near the ends. Build a
box that will reveal the outside corners of the posts
when properly placed.
2. Arrange the template pieces so that they are
positioned in the exact location of where the pergola
will be placed. The boards with the marking on the
end will be across from each other. The marks will
show where the other boards will be attached to
create this box.
3. Connect the corners of the template pieces by
driving two 2 ½” screws through the side of the
template boards.
4. When the template is in position, square the
template. Do this by measuring diagonally from one
corner to its opposite corner, then measure
diagonally between the other two corners. These two
dimensions MUST be the same. Adjust the template
until the diagonal measurements are identical.
5. Once the template is “square”, mark the post
locations using the INSIDE corners of the framed box
on a concrete slab with a pencil. After all the post
locations are marked on the concrete slab, remove
and set the wooden template aside.
Page | 2
SECTION ONE –POSTS
1. Set the Template: The pergola is shipped
with a wooden template so to properly
figure the location of the posts. Arrange
them so that they are positioned in the
approximate location of where the pergola
will be. Connect the corners of the
template using 2 ½” screws. (As shown at
right) Note: If the pergola is over 16 feet
or has a middle post, the template may be
spliced. Be sure to match up the correct splices using the Letters A to A, B to B
(not shown).
2. Square the Template: Once the template is in position, square it. Do this by
measuring the distance from one corner to the opposing corner as shown.
Remember this dimension (varies by pergola size) and then measure the other
two corners. These dimensions must be the same. Adjust the template and
measure the corners until they are the same. Once the template is square, with a
pencil, mark the inside of the hole for each of the posts.
6.Set the Brackets: The brackets are stainless steel. Next, drill a hole into your
concrete footer or slab. Using a ½” masonry bit, drill a 4” hole through the
center of the large hole in the middle of the post base. Make sure all of the
concrete dust is cleared from the hole, use a vacuum if needed. Add the washer
and put the nut on the bolt so the threads are just above the nut. Do not set the
bolt too deep in the hole, as this will also protect the threads should it need to be
tapped with a hammer. Tighten the bolt, and the base of the bolt will expand. If
installing the pergola on concrete, use the supplied wedge bolt. If attaching the
pergola to a wood deck, use a 4” lag bolt (not included) instead of a wedge bolt.
Page | 3
Setting up the template:
1. Your pergola kit includes a wooden template that is
used to mark your post locations. Notice that two of
the 2x4 boards have a marking near the ends. Build a
box that will reveal the outside corners of the posts
when properly placed.
2. Arrange the template pieces so that they are
positioned in the exact location of where the pergola
will be placed. The boards with the marking on the
end will be across from each other. The marks will
show where the other boards will be attached to
create this box.
3. Connect the corners of the template pieces by
driving two 2 ½” screws through the side of the
template boards.
4. When the template is in position, square the
template. Do this by measuring diagonally from one
corner to its opposite corner, then measure
diagonally between the other two corners. These two
dimensions MUST be the same. Adjust the template
until the diagonal measurements are identical.
5. Once the template is “square”, mark the post
locations using the INSIDE corners of the framed box
on a concrete slab with a pencil. After all the post
locations are marked on the concrete slab, remove
and set the wooden template aside.
Page | 2
SECTION ONE –POSTS
1. Set the Template: The pergola is shipped
with a wooden template so to properly
figure the location of the posts. Arrange
them so that they are positioned in the
approximate location of where the pergola
will be. Connect the corners of the
template using 2 ½” screws. (As shown at
right) Note: If the pergola is over 16 feet
or has a middle post, the template may be
spliced. Be sure to match up the correct splices using the Letters A to A, B to B
(not shown).
2. Square the Template: Once the template is in position, square it. Do this by
measuring the distance from one corner to the opposing corner as shown.
Remember this dimension (varies by pergola size) and then measure the other
two corners. These dimensions must be the same. Adjust the template and
measure the corners until they are the same. Once the template is square, with a
pencil, mark the inside of the hole for each of the posts.
6.Set the Brackets: The brackets are stainless steel. Next, drill a hole into your
concrete footer or slab. Using a ½” masonry bit, drill a 4” hole through the
center of the large hole in the middle of the post base. Make sure all of the
concrete dust is cleared from the hole, use a vacuum if needed. Add the washer
and put the nut on the bolt so the threads are just above the nut. Do not set the
bolt too deep in the hole, as this will also protect the threads should it need to be
tapped with a hammer. Tighten the bolt, and the base of the bolt will expand. If
installing the pergola on concrete, use the supplied wedge bolt. If attaching the
pergola to a wood deck, use a 4” lag bolt (not included) instead of a wedge bolt.
Page | 3
Setting up the template:
1. Your pergola kit includes a wooden template that is
used to mark your post locations. Notice that two of
the 2x4 boards have a marking near the ends. Build a
box that will reveal the outside corners of the posts
when properly placed.
2. Arrange the template pieces so that they are
positioned in the exact location of where the pergola
will be placed. The boards with the marking on the
end will be across from each other. The marks will
show where the other boards will be attached to
create this box.
3. Connect the corners of the template pieces by
driving two 2 ½” screws through the side of the
template boards.
4. When the template is in position, square the
template. Do this by measuring diagonally from one
corner to its opposite corner, then measure
diagonally between the other two corners. These two
dimensions MUST be the same. Adjust the template
until the diagonal measurements are identical.
5. Once the template is “square”, mark the post
locations using the INSIDE corners of the framed box
on a concrete slab with a pencil. After all the post
locations are marked on the concrete slab, remove
and set the wooden template aside.
Page | 2
SECTION ONE –POSTS
1. Set the Template: The pergola is shipped
with a wooden template so to properly
figure the location of the posts. Arrange
them so that they are positioned in the
approximate location of where the pergola
will be. Connect the corners of the
template using 2 ½” screws. (As shown at
right) Note: If the pergola is over 16 feet
or has a middle post, the template may be
spliced. Be sure to match up the correct splices using the Letters A to A, B to B
(not shown).
2. Square the Template: Once the template is in position, square it. Do this by
measuring the distance from one corner to the opposing corner as shown.
Remember this dimension (varies by pergola size) and then measure the other
two corners. These dimensions must be the same. Adjust the template and
measure the corners until they are the same. Once the template is square, with a
pencil, mark the inside of the hole for each of the posts.
6.Set the Brackets: The brackets are stainless steel. Next, drill a hole into your
concrete footer or slab. Using a ½” masonry bit, drill a 4” hole through the
center of the large hole in the middle of the post base. Make sure all of the
concrete dust is cleared from the hole, use a vacuum if needed. Add the washer
and put the nut on the bolt so the threads are just above the nut. Do not set the
bolt too deep in the hole, as this will also protect the threads should it need to be
tapped with a hammer. Tighten the bolt, and the base of the bolt will expand. If
installing the pergola on concrete, use the supplied wedge bolt. If attaching the
pergola to a wood deck, use a 4” lag bolt (not included) instead of a wedge bolt.
Page | 3
Setting up the template:
1. Your pergola kit includes a wooden template that is
used to mark your post locations. Notice that two of
the 2x4 boards have a marking near the ends. Build a
box that will reveal the outside corners of the posts
when properly placed.
2. Arrange the template pieces so that they are
positioned in the exact location of where the pergola
will be placed. The boards with the marking on the
end will be across from each other. The marks will
show where the other boards will be attached to
create this box.
3. Connect the corners of the template pieces by
driving two 2 ½” screws through the side of the
template boards.
4. When the template is in position, square the
template. Do this by measuring diagonally from one
corner to its opposite corner, then measure
diagonally between the other two corners. These two
dimensions MUST be the same. Adjust the template
until the diagonal measurements are identical.
5. Once the template is “square”, mark the post
locations using the INSIDE corners of the framed box
on a concrete slab with a pencil. After all the post
locations are marked on the concrete slab, remove
and set the wooden template aside.
Page | 2
SECTION ONE –POSTS
1. Set the Template: The pergola is shipped
with a wooden template so to properly
figure the location of the posts. Arrange
them so that they are positioned in the
approximate location of where the pergola
will be. Connect the corners of the
template using 2 ½” screws. (As shown at
right) Note: If the pergola is over 16 feet
or has a middle post, the template may be
spliced. Be sure to match up the correct splices using the Letters A to A, B to B
(not shown).
2. Square the Template: Once the template is in position, square it. Do this by
measuring the distance from one corner to the opposing corner as shown.
Remember this dimension (varies by pergola size) and then measure the other
two corners. These dimensions must be the same. Adjust the template and
measure the corners until they are the same. Once the template is square, with a
pencil, mark the inside of the hole for each of the posts.
6.Set the Brackets: The brackets are stainless steel. Next, drill a hole into your
concrete footer or slab. Using a ½” masonry bit, drill a 4” hole through the
center of the large hole in the middle of the post base. Make sure all of the
concrete dust is cleared from the hole, use a vacuum if needed. Add the washer
and put the nut on the bolt so the threads are just above the nut. Do not set the
bolt too deep in the hole, as this will also protect the threads should it need to be
tapped with a hammer. Tighten the bolt, and the base of the bolt will expand. If
installing the pergola on concrete, use the supplied wedge bolt. If attaching the
pergola to a wood deck, use a 4” lag bolt (not included) instead of a wedge bolt.
Setting up the template:
1.) Your pergola kit includes a wooden
template that is used to mark your post
locations. Notice that two of the 2x4 boards
have a marking near the ends. Build a box that
will reveal the outside corners of the posts
when properly placed.
NOTE: If you purchased a larger pergola
your template will be spliced in the center,
just match up the letters and fasten together
with (2) screws.
3.) Connect the corners of the template pieces
by driving two 2 ½” screws through the side of
the template boards.
2.) Arrange the template pieces so that they
are positioned in the exact location of where
the pergola will be placed. The boards with the
marking on the end will be across from each
other. The marks will show where the other
boards will be attached to create this box.
4.) When the template is in position, square
the template. Do this by measuring diagonally
from one corner to its opposite corner, then
measure diagonally between the other two
corners. These two dimensions MUST be the
same. Adjust the template until the diagonal
measurements are identical.
SECTION ONE – POSTS

2
Page | 3
Setting up the template:
1. Your pergola kit includes a wooden template that is
used to mark your post locations. Notice that two of
the 2x4 boards have a marking near the ends. Build a
box that will reveal the outside corners of the posts
when properly placed.
2. Arrange the template pieces so that they are
positioned in the exact location of where the pergola
will be placed. The boards with the marking on the
end will be across from each other. The marks will
show where the other boards will be attached to
create this box.
3. Connect the corners of the template pieces by
driving two 2 ½” screws through the side of the
template boards.
4. When the template is in position, square the
template. Do this by measuring diagonally from one
corner to its opposite corner, then measure
diagonally between the other two corners. These two
dimensions MUST be the same. Adjust the template
until the diagonal measurements are identical.
5. Once the template is “square”, mark the post
locations using the INSIDE corners of the framed box
on a concrete slab with a pencil. After all the post
locations are marked on the concrete slab, remove
and set the wooden template aside.
Page | 2
SECTION ONE –POSTS
1. Set the Template: The pergola is shipped
with a wooden template so to properly
figure the location of the posts. Arrange
them so that they are positioned in the
approximate location of where the pergola
will be. Connect the corners of the
template using 2 ½” screws. (As shown at
right) Note: If the pergola is over 16 feet
or has a middle post, the template may be
spliced. Be sure to match up the correct splices using the Letters A to A, B to B
(not shown).
2. Square the Template: Once the template is in position, square it. Do this by
measuring the distance from one corner to the opposing corner as shown.
Remember this dimension (varies by pergola size) and then measure the other
two corners. These dimensions must be the same. Adjust the template and
measure the corners until they are the same. Once the template is square, with a
pencil, mark the inside of the hole for each of the posts.
6.Set the Brackets: The brackets are stainless steel. Next, drill a hole into your
concrete footer or slab. Using a ½” masonry bit, drill a 4” hole through the
center of the large hole in the middle of the post base. Make sure all of the
concrete dust is cleared from the hole, use a vacuum if needed. Add the washer
and put the nut on the bolt so the threads are just above the nut. Do not set the
bolt too deep in the hole, as this will also protect the threads should it need to be
tapped with a hammer. Tighten the bolt, and the base of the bolt will expand. If
installing the pergola on concrete, use the supplied wedge bolt. If attaching the
pergola to a wood deck, use a 4” lag bolt (not included) instead of a wedge bolt.
5.) Once the template is “square”, mark the
post locations using the INSIDE corners of the
framed box on a concrete slab with a pencil.
After all the post locations are marked on the
concrete slab, remove and set the wooden
template aside.
Set the Brackets
6.) The brackets are the 8 L-Brackets in the
hardware box. Place them at the outside of
the pencil mark, one per corner. Next, drill a
hole into your concrete footer or slab. Using
a ½” masonry bit, drill a hole through the
bracket about 1/2” deeper than the length of
your anchor bolt. Make sure all of the concrete
dust is cleared from the hole, use a vacuum if
needed. Add the washer and put the nut on
the bolt so the threads are just above the nut.
You may need to hit it down with a hammer,
you can use a 2x board to hit the top of the
bolt so you do not damage the threads on
the bolt. Hammer the bolt down until 3/4” of
anchor is exposed. Tighten the nut, and the
base of the bolt will expand. Once completed,
install the rest of the brackets, one per corner.
If you purchased a pergola with more than
4 posts, install a bracket for each additional
post.

3
Setting the Posts
7.) Attach all the posts to the bracket using (5)
2-1/2” screws per bracket.
Post Bases
8.) Now you are ready to install the Post Bases.
Get a ladder and slide the base over the top
of the post (see picture above). There are (6)
screws per base, it does not really matter which
way they are turned, although we recommend
keeping the screws turned in the same
direction. Repeat this step for each post.

4
Install Headers
9.) Now you are ready to install the headers.
It does not matter which side you start on.
Fasten the posts using (5) 2-1/2” screws,
keeping it even on top and center of the posts.
We recommend keeping the screws on the
header turned on the inside of the pergola.
Repeat the step for all sides.
NOTE: Note: If the pergola is over 16’ long,
there will be a center post, making two sets of
beams for each side of the pergola. Installing
the beams is the same no matter how long or
how many beams there are.
Install the Top Plate
10.) The top plate is a piece of 2’ x 8’ wood that
is precut to fit on top of the beams. Rest all 4
pieces on top of the beams. Arrange them so
that they fit tight at the corners.
NOTE: On larger pergolas, there may be more
than 4 top plates as some of the sides will need
more than one board.) Two of the top plates
have marks for positioning the runners – these
are usually set on the longest dimension since
runners span the short dimension. On square
pergolas, the parts are interchangeable, but
the top plates with the markings need to be on
opposing sides. Be sure that the markings are
facing up as shown on top.
Joining the Top Plate Pieces
11.) The top plate pieces must be joined
together before attaching them to the top of
the posts or to the beam. Place 3 ½” screws on
an angle at the corners as shown. There are no
pre-drilled holes. Since the screw is close to the
end, pre-drill a 1/8” hole (see left).

5
NOTE: On larger pergolas, your top plates will
be spliced, just match the letters together and
continue with the step.
Attach Top Plates
12.) Position the assembled top plates so that
the seams in the corners are centered across
the corner posts. The top plate will overhang
the beams by about ½” - 1” on the inside.
Before attaching to the posts and to the top
of the beam with 2 ½” screws, make sure
that the overhangs are the same along the
entire perimeter. Attach with two screws at an
angled cut into the top of the wood posts and
then along the beam approx. every 24”.
Once you have fastened all corners, screw
plate to header with (2) 2 ½” screws
approximately every 24”.
Anchor remaining Posts to Concrete
13.) Sliding the base up towards the top you
can fasten it to the post with a screw to keep
it from falling down. Make sure the posts are
level and still at the L-shaped pencil mark.
Screw the second bracket to the post using
(5) 2 ½” screws. It does not matter which side
of the post, however we recommend going
caddy-corner. Keep in mind you should stay
approximately 4” away from the edge of the
concrete. Refer back to step 6 for setting the
brackets. Once completed remove the screw
and place the base in its correct position.

6
Page | 6
SECTION 3 –MAIN RUNNERS
The main runners are 2x6’s that have decorative cuts on both ends (unless a special
order). They have markings on the top for the top runners.
Note about spacing: Generally both the main and top runners are spaced 16” on center
unless you order other spacing. Since the first runner on each side will align with the
edge of the top plate as explained below, the spacing may need adjusted. This is done
during production and the marks made accordingly. Most importantly, the top runners
have notches that coincide with the calculations made. Never change the placement of the
main runners, or the top runners will not fit.
Since the top runners have notches, the overhangs cannot be adjusted later. These runner
notches are “symmetrical” but the markings will be backwards if not arranged correctly.
It is a good idea to lay all the runners down next to each other to make sure the lines and
X's are aligned. Make sure not to flip the direction when installing.
1. Set the First Main Runner: As discussed in the previous section, two
sides of the top plate are lined with marks to guide your runner placement.
Set the first 2x6 runner on the corresponding top plate marks at the outer
sides. The end runners are set about ¼” from the edge of the runners. Do
not flush the runner to the end of the top plate. Set the first runner. Next,
adjust the runner placement back and
forth until each overhang has an equal
measurement. (Hint: you can “split the
distance” to center the pergolas) For
example, if you have a measurement of
2” on one side and 1 ½” on the other
side, the difference is ½”. Moving the
runner just ¼” will center it. Once the
overhang measurement is the same,
Page | 7
remember this measurement for other runners.
2. Attach First Main Runner: When the runner has an equal overhang on
each side, attach it to the frame by inserting a 2 ½” screw from the
underside of the top plate up into the runner on both sides. For the two
outside runners only, use screws through the top plate into the runner for
the full length of the runner –approx. every 24”.
Note about markings: Each mark consists of a line
and an “X”. The line represents the side of the 2x6
runner, and the X means that the board will be
placed to that side of the line.
3. Set and Attach Remaining Main
Runners: Set the next runner over the
markings. Ensure that the overhangs are
equal to each other and the preceding
runner’s overhang. Attach with 2 ½”
screws on the outside, up through the
bottom of the top plate and into the
bottom of the runners. Do this for the
rest of the main runners.
4. Double Check Spacing: Double check spacing by using two of the top
runners. Set each on the main runners and make sure that the notches in the
top runners slide down over the main runners. Do this on both ends, above
the beams. If one or more of the notches do not line up, unscrew that
runner and reposition it so that it fits.
Page | 7
remember this measurement for other runners.
2. Attach First Main Runner: When the runner has an equal overhang on
each side, attach it to the frame by inserting a 2 ½” screw from the
underside of the top plate up into the runner on both sides. For the two
outside runners only, use screws through the top plate into the runner for
the full length of the runner –approx. every 24”.
Note about markings: Each mark consists of a line
and an “X”. The line represents the side of the 2x6
runner, and the X means that the board will be
placed to that side of the line.
3. Set and Attach Remaining Main
Runners: Set the next runner over the
markings. Ensure that the overhangs are
equal to each other and the preceding
runner’s overhang. Attach with 2 ½”
screws on the outside, up through the
bottom of the top plate and into the
bottom of the runners. Do this for the
rest of the main runners.
4. Double Check Spacing: Double check spacing by using two of the top
runners. Set each on the main runners and make sure that the notches in the
top runners slide down over the main runners. Do this on both ends, above
the beams. If one or more of the notches do not line up, unscrew that
runner and reposition it so that it fits.
SECTION TWO – MAIN RUNNERS
The main runners are 2’x6’s that have decorative cuts on both ends (unless a special order).
They have markings on the top for the top runners.
NOTE ABOUT SPACING: Generally both the main and top runners are spaced 16” on center unless
you order other spacing. Since the first runner on each side will align with the edge of the top
plate as explained below, the spacing may need adjusted. This is done during production and the
marks made accordingly. Most importantly, the top runners have notches that coincide with the
calculations made. Never change the placement of the main runners, or the top runners will not fit.
Since the top runners have notches, the overhangs cannot be adjusted later. These runner notches
are “symmetrical” but the markings will be backwards if not arranged correctly. It is a good idea to
lay all the runners down next to each other to make sure the lines and X’s are aligned. Make sure
not to flip the direction when installing.

7
Page | 6
SECTION 3 –MAIN RUNNERS
The main runners are 2x6’s that have decorative cuts on both ends (unless a special
order). They have markings on the top for the top runners.
Note about spacing: Generally both the main and top runners are spaced 16” on center
unless you order other spacing. Since the first runner on each side will align with the
edge of the top plate as explained below, the spacing may need adjusted. This is done
during production and the marks made accordingly. Most importantly, the top runners
have notches that coincide with the calculations made. Never change the placement of the
main runners, or the top runners will not fit.
Since the top runners have notches, the overhangs cannot be adjusted later. These runner
notches are “symmetrical” but the markings will be backwards if not arranged correctly.
It is a good idea to lay all the runners down next to each other to make sure the lines and
X's are aligned. Make sure not to flip the direction when installing.
1. Set the First Main Runner: As discussed in the previous section, two
sides of the top plate are lined with marks to guide your runner placement.
Set the first 2x6 runner on the corresponding top plate marks at the outer
sides. The end runners are set about ¼” from the edge of the runners. Do
not flush the runner to the end of the top plate. Set the first runner. Next,
adjust the runner placement back and
forth until each overhang has an equal
measurement. (Hint: you can “split the
distance” to center the pergolas) For
example, if you have a measurement of
2” on one side and 1 ½” on the other
side, the difference is ½”. Moving the
runner just ¼” will center it. Once the
overhang measurement is the same,
Page | 7
remember this measurement for other runners.
2. Attach First Main Runner: When the runner has an equal overhang on
each side, attach it to the frame by inserting a 2 ½” screw from the
underside of the top plate up into the runner on both sides. For the two
outside runners only, use screws through the top plate into the runner for
the full length of the runner –approx. every 24”.
Note about markings: Each mark consists of a line
and an “X”. The line represents the side of the 2x6
runner, and the X means that the board will be
placed to that side of the line.
3. Set and Attach Remaining Main
Runners: Set the next runner over the
markings. Ensure that the overhangs are
equal to each other and the preceding
runner’s overhang. Attach with 2 ½”
screws on the outside, up through the
bottom of the top plate and into the
bottom of the runners. Do this for the
rest of the main runners.
4. Double Check Spacing: Double check spacing by using two of the top
runners. Set each on the main runners and make sure that the notches in the
top runners slide down over the main runners. Do this on both ends, above
the beams. If one or more of the notches do not line up, unscrew that
runner and reposition it so that it fits.
Page | 7
remember this measurement for other runners.
2. Attach First Main Runner: When the runner has an equal overhang on
each side, attach it to the frame by inserting a 2 ½” screw from the
underside of the top plate up into the runner on both sides. For the two
outside runners only, use screws through the top plate into the runner for
the full length of the runner –approx. every 24”.
Note about markings: Each mark consists of a line
and an “X”. The line represents the side of the 2x6
runner, and the X means that the board will be
placed to that side of the line.
3. Set and Attach Remaining Main
Runners: Set the next runner over the
markings. Ensure that the overhangs are
equal to each other and the preceding
runner’s overhang. Attach with 2 ½”
screws on the outside, up through the
bottom of the top plate and into the
bottom of the runners. Do this for the
rest of the main runners.
4. Double Check Spacing: Double check spacing by using two of the top
runners. Set each on the main runners and make sure that the notches in the
top runners slide down over the main runners. Do this on both ends, above
the beams. If one or more of the notches do not line up, unscrew that
runner and reposition it so that it fits.
Page | 6
SECTION 3 –MAIN RUNNERS
The main runners are 2x6’s that have decorative cuts on both ends (unless a special
order). They have markings on the top for the top runners.
Note about spacing: Generally both the main and top runners are spaced 16” on center
unless you order other spacing. Since the first runner on each side will align with the
edge of the top plate as explained below, the spacing may need adjusted. This is done
during production and the marks made accordingly. Most importantly, the top runners
have notches that coincide with the calculations made. Never change the placement of the
main runners, or the top runners will not fit.
Since the top runners have notches, the overhangs cannot be adjusted later. These runner
notches are “symmetrical” but the markings will be backwards if not arranged correctly.
It is a good idea to lay all the runners down next to each other to make sure the lines and
X's are aligned. Make sure not to flip the direction when installing.
1. Set the First Main Runner: As discussed in the previous section, two
sides of the top plate are lined with marks to guide your runner placement.
Set the first 2x6 runner on the corresponding top plate marks at the outer
sides. The end runners are set about ¼” from the edge of the runners. Do
not flush the runner to the end of the top plate. Set the first runner. Next,
adjust the runner placement back and
forth until each overhang has an equal
measurement. (Hint: you can “split the
distance” to center the pergolas) For
example, if you have a measurement of
2” on one side and 1 ½” on the other
side, the difference is ½”. Moving the
runner just ¼” will center it. Once the
overhang measurement is the same,
Page | 7
remember this measurement for other runners.
2. Attach First Main Runner: When the runner has an equal overhang on
each side, attach it to the frame by inserting a 2 ½” screw from the
underside of the top plate up into the runner on both sides. For the two
outside runners only, use screws through the top plate into the runner for
the full length of the runner –approx. every 24”.
Note about markings: Each mark consists of a line
and an “X”. The line represents the side of the 2x6
runner, and the X means that the board will be
placed to that side of the line.
3. Set and Attach Remaining Main
Runners: Set the next runner over the
markings. Ensure that the overhangs are
equal to each other and the preceding
runner’s overhang. Attach with 2 ½”
screws on the outside, up through the
bottom of the top plate and into the
bottom of the runners. Do this for the
rest of the main runners.
4. Double Check Spacing: Double check spacing by using two of the top
runners. Set each on the main runners and make sure that the notches in the
top runners slide down over the main runners. Do this on both ends, above
the beams. If one or more of the notches do not line up, unscrew that
runner and reposition it so that it fits.
Page | 7
remember this measurement for other runners.
2. Attach First Main Runner: When the runner has an equal overhang on
each side, attach it to the frame by inserting a 2 ½” screw from the
underside of the top plate up into the runner on both sides. For the two
outside runners only, use screws through the top plate into the runner for
the full length of the runner –approx. every 24”.
Note about markings: Each mark consists of a line
and an “X”. The line represents the side of the 2x6
runner, and the X means that the board will be
placed to that side of the line.
3. Set and Attach Remaining Main
Runners: Set the next runner over the
markings. Ensure that the overhangs are
equal to each other and the preceding
runner’s overhang. Attach with 2 ½”
screws on the outside, up through the
bottom of the top plate and into the
bottom of the runners. Do this for the
rest of the main runners.
4. Double Check Spacing: Double check spacing by using two of the top
runners. Set each on the main runners and make sure that the notches in the
top runners slide down over the main runners. Do this on both ends, above
the beams. If one or more of the notches do not line up, unscrew that
runner and reposition it so that it fits.
Set the First Main Runner
14.) As discussed in the previous section, two
sides of the top plate are lined with marks to
guide your runner placement. Set the first 2’x6’
runner on the corresponding top plate marks at
the outer sides. The end runners are set about
¼” from the edge of the runners. Do not flush
the runner to the end of the top plate. Set the
first runner. Next, adjust the runner placement
back and forth until each overhang has an equal
measurement. (Hint: you can “split the distance”
to center the pergolas) For example, if you have
a measurement of 2” on one side and 1 ½” on
the other side, the dierence is ½”. Moving the
runner just ¼” will center it. Once the overhang
measurement is the same, remember this
measurement for other runners.
Attach the First Main Runner
15.) When the runner has an equal overhang
on each side, attach it to the frame by
inserting a 2 ½” screw from the underside of
the top plate up into the runner on both sides.
For the two outside runners only, use screws
through the top plate into the runner for the
full length of the runner – approx. every 24”.
NOTE ABOUT MARKINGS: Each mark consists
of a line and an “X”. The line represents the side
of the 2’x6’ runner, and the X means that the
board will be placed to that side of the line.

8
Page | 7
remember this measurement for other runners.
2. Attach First Main Runner: When the runner has an equal overhang on
each side, attach it to the frame by inserting a 2 ½” screw from the
underside of the top plate up into the runner on both sides. For the two
outside runners only, use screws through the top plate into the runner for
the full length of the runner –approx. every 24”.
Note about markings: Each mark consists of a line
and an “X”. The line represents the side of the 2x6
runner, and the X means that the board will be
placed to that side of the line.
3. Set and Attach Remaining Main
Runners: Set the next runner over the
markings. Ensure that the overhangs are
equal to each other and the preceding
runner’s overhang. Attach with 2 ½”
screws on the outside, up through the
bottom of the top plate and into the
bottom of the runners. Do this for the
rest of the main runners.
4. Double Check Spacing: Double check spacing by using two of the top
runners. Set each on the main runners and make sure that the notches in the
top runners slide down over the main runners. Do this on both ends, above
the beams. If one or more of the notches do not line up, unscrew that
runner and reposition it so that it fits.
Page | 8
5. Run Additional Screw: Once all of the runners are in place and attached
with screws, run an additional screw from the inside of the pergola, up
through the 1” exposed top plate and into each runner. It is fine to angle
this 2 ½” screw slightly facing toward the outside of the beam.
SECTION 4 –TOP RUNNERS
Align each of the top runners over the marking on the main runners. It is best to work
from one side of the pergola to the next in order to make sure that any bows in the
runners are worked out. Attach the top 2x4 runners onto the main runners using 3 ½”
screws from the top through the pre drilled holes. Do this until all the top runners are in
place.
SECTION 5 –FINISHING TOUCHES
If installing on pavers or a brick patio, fill in the patio components around the post
and then slide the post base trim down over the brick to hide cuts. If doing that, hold
off screwing down the base trim, using two screws per side will suffice. Also, screw
down the top ring on the base trim using two 2 ½” screws. If using the 16” post base
trim rather than the 36” trim, use two 2 ½” screws per side. There is no top trim ring.
Page | 8
5. Run Additional Screw: Once all of the runners are in place and attached
with screws, run an additional screw from the inside of the pergola, up
through the 1” exposed top plate and into each runner. It is fine to angle
this 2 ½” screw slightly facing toward the outside of the beam.
SECTION 4 –TOP RUNNERS
Align each of the top runners over the marking on the main runners. It is best to work
from one side of the pergola to the next in order to make sure that any bows in the
runners are worked out. Attach the top 2x4 runners onto the main runners using 3 ½”
screws from the top through the pre drilled holes. Do this until all the top runners are in
place.
SECTION 5 –FINISHING TOUCHES
If installing on pavers or a brick patio, fill in the patio components around the post
and then slide the post base trim down over the brick to hide cuts. If doing that, hold
off screwing down the base trim, using two screws per side will suffice. Also, screw
down the top ring on the base trim using two 2 ½” screws. If using the 16” post base
trim rather than the 36” trim, use two 2 ½” screws per side. There is no top trim ring.
Page | 7
remember this measurement for other runners.
2. Attach First Main Runner: When the runner has an equal overhang on
each side, attach it to the frame by inserting a 2 ½” screw from the
underside of the top plate up into the runner on both sides. For the two
outside runners only, use screws through the top plate into the runner for
the full length of the runner –approx. every 24”.
Note about markings: Each mark consists of a line
and an “X”. The line represents the side of the 2x6
runner, and the X means that the board will be
placed to that side of the line.
3. Set and Attach Remaining Main
Runners: Set the next runner over the
markings. Ensure that the overhangs are
equal to each other and the preceding
runner’s overhang. Attach with 2 ½”
screws on the outside, up through the
bottom of the top plate and into the
bottom of the runners. Do this for the
rest of the main runners.
4. Double Check Spacing: Double check spacing by using two of the top
runners. Set each on the main runners and make sure that the notches in the
top runners slide down over the main runners. Do this on both ends, above
the beams. If one or more of the notches do not line up, unscrew that
runner and reposition it so that it fits.
Page | 8
5. Run Additional Screw: Once all of the runners are in place and attached
with screws, run an additional screw from the inside of the pergola, up
through the 1” exposed top plate and into each runner. It is fine to angle
this 2 ½” screw slightly facing toward the outside of the beam.
SECTION 4 –TOP RUNNERS
Align each of the top runners over the marking on the main runners. It is best to work
from one side of the pergola to the next in order to make sure that any bows in the
runners are worked out. Attach the top 2x4 runners onto the main runners using 3 ½”
screws from the top through the pre drilled holes. Do this until all the top runners are in
place.
SECTION 5 –FINISHING TOUCHES
If installing on pavers or a brick patio, fill in the patio components around the post
and then slide the post base trim down over the brick to hide cuts. If doing that, hold
off screwing down the base trim, using two screws per side will suffice. Also, screw
down the top ring on the base trim using two 2 ½” screws. If using the 16” post base
trim rather than the 36” trim, use two 2 ½” screws per side. There is no top trim ring.
Page | 8
5. Run Additional Screw: Once all of the runners are in place and attached
with screws, run an additional screw from the inside of the pergola, up
through the 1” exposed top plate and into each runner. It is fine to angle
this 2 ½” screw slightly facing toward the outside of the beam.
SECTION 4 –TOP RUNNERS
Align each of the top runners over the marking on the main runners. It is best to work
from one side of the pergola to the next in order to make sure that any bows in the
runners are worked out. Attach the top 2x4 runners onto the main runners using 3 ½”
screws from the top through the pre drilled holes. Do this until all the top runners are in
place.
SECTION 5 –FINISHING TOUCHES
If installing on pavers or a brick patio, fill in the patio components around the post
and then slide the post base trim down over the brick to hide cuts. If doing that, hold
off screwing down the base trim, using two screws per side will suffice. Also, screw
down the top ring on the base trim using two 2 ½” screws. If using the 16” post base
trim rather than the 36” trim, use two 2 ½” screws per side. There is no top trim ring.
Set & Attach the Remaining Main Runners
16.) Set the next runner over the markings.
Ensure that the overhangs are equal to each
other and the preceding runner’s overhang.
Attach with 2 ½”screws on the outside, up
through the bottom of the top plate an into the
bottom of the runners. Do this for the rest of
the main runners.
Run Additional Screw
18.) Once all of the runners are in place and
attached with screws, run an additional screw
from the inside of the pergola, up through the
1” exposed top plate and into each runner. It
is fine to angle this 2 ½” screw slightly facing
toward the outside of the beam.

9
Page | 8
5. Run Additional Screw: Once all of the runners are in place and attached
with screws, run an additional screw from the inside of the pergola, up
through the 1” exposed top plate and into each runner. It is fine to angle
this 2 ½” screw slightly facing toward the outside of the beam.
SECTION 4 –TOP RUNNERS
Align each of the top runners over the marking on the main runners. It is best to work
from one side of the pergola to the next in order to make sure that any bows in the
runners are worked out. Attach the top 2x4 runners onto the main runners using 3 ½”
screws from the top through the pre drilled holes. Do this until all the top runners are in
place.
SECTION 5 –FINISHING TOUCHES
If installing on pavers or a brick patio, fill in the patio components around the post
and then slide the post base trim down over the brick to hide cuts. If doing that, hold
off screwing down the base trim, using two screws per side will suffice. Also, screw
down the top ring on the base trim using two 2 ½” screws. If using the 16” post base
trim rather than the 36” trim, use two 2 ½” screws per side. There is no top trim ring.
Page | 3
9
Page | 7
remember this measurement for other runners.
2. Attach First Main Runner: When the runner has an equal overhang on
each side, attach it to the frame by inserting a 2 ½” screw from the
underside of the top plate up into the runner on both sides. For the two
outside runners only, use screws through the top plate into the runner for
the full length of the runner –approx. every 24”.
Note about markings: Each mark consists of a line
and an “X”. The line represents the side of the 2x6
runner, and the X means that the board will be
placed to that side of the line.
3. Set and Attach Remaining Main
Runners: Set the next runner over the
markings. Ensure that the overhangs are
equal to each other and the preceding
runner’s overhang. Attach with 2 ½”
screws on the outside, up through the
bottom of the top plate and into the
bottom of the runners. Do this for the
rest of the main runners.
4. Double Check Spacing: Double check spacing by using two of the top
runners. Set each on the main runners and make sure that the notches in the
top runners slide down over the main runners. Do this on both ends, above
the beams. If one or more of the notches do not line up, unscrew that
runner and reposition it so that it fits.
Page | 8
5. Run Additional Screw: Once all of the runners are in place and attached
with screws, run an additional screw from the inside of the pergola, up
through the 1” exposed top plate and into each runner. It is fine to angle
this 2 ½” screw slightly facing toward the outside of the beam.
SECTION 4 –TOP RUNNERS
Align each of the top runners over the marking on the main runners. It is best to work
from one side of the pergola to the next in order to make sure that any bows in the
runners are worked out. Attach the top 2x4 runners onto the main runners using 3 ½”
screws from the top through the pre drilled holes. Do this until all the top runners are in
place.
SECTION 5 –FINISHING TOUCHES
If installing on pavers or a brick patio, fill in the patio components around the post
and then slide the post base trim down over the brick to hide cuts. If doing that, hold
off screwing down the base trim, using two screws per side will suffice. Also, screw
down the top ring on the base trim using two 2 ½” screws. If using the 16” post base
trim rather than the 36” trim, use two 2 ½” screws per side. There is no top trim ring.
Page | 8
5. Run Additional Screw: Once all of the runners are in place and attached
with screws, run an additional screw from the inside of the pergola, up
through the 1” exposed top plate and into each runner. It is fine to angle
this 2 ½” screw slightly facing toward the outside of the beam.
SECTION 4 –TOP RUNNERS
Align each of the top runners over the marking on the main runners. It is best to work
from one side of the pergola to the next in order to make sure that any bows in the
runners are worked out. Attach the top 2x4 runners onto the main runners using 3 ½”
screws from the top through the pre drilled holes. Do this until all the top runners are in
place.
SECTION 5 –FINISHING TOUCHES
If installing on pavers or a brick patio, fill in the patio components around the post
and then slide the post base trim down over the brick to hide cuts. If doing that, hold
off screwing down the base trim, using two screws per side will suffice. Also, screw
down the top ring on the base trim using two 2 ½” screws. If using the 16” post base
trim rather than the 36” trim, use two 2 ½” screws per side. There is no top trim ring.
If you purchased a canopy with your pergola, follow the directions that are included with
the canopy.
Be sure to call your project advisor with any questions.
ENJOY YOUR NEW 4-BEAM WOOD PERGOLA
Double Check Spacing
17.) Double check spacing by using two of the
top runners. Set each on the main runners and
make sure that the notches in the top runners
slide down over the main runners. Do this on
both ends, above the beams. If one or more
of the notches do not line up, unscrew that
runner and reposition it so that it fits.
Top Runners
19.) Align each of the top runners over the
marking on the main runners. It is best to
work from one side of the pergola to the next
in order to make sure that any bows in the
runners are worked out. Attach the top 2’x4’
runners onto the main runners using 3 ½”
screws from the top through the pre drilled
holes. Repeat until all top runners are in place.