Pfaff CALANDA 132 User manual

(
r
315$
CPFAFFD
)
C-
aFardz
‘132

Dear
Housewife,
At
last
you
are
the
proud
owner
of this
Sewing
Mochinel
The
machine
was
fully
explained
to you
and
you
were
delighted
with
the many
useful
and
wonder
ful
things
performed
on
this
true
wonder
of en
gineering.
Although
everything
is
quite
clear
to you now,
it
is
possible
that
in
time some
of the
directions
given
to you
for
making
the
various adjustments
may
escape
your
memory
— because,
it
is
unlikely
that
you
will
immediately
try
your
hand
at
all
the
different
kinds of
sewing
your machine can
do.
We
have
therefore prepared
this
informative in
struction book
and
hope
you
will
find
it
a
useful
guide.
Before
putting the
machine
to
work
we
vise
you
to
glance
briefly
at
the
pages
of
fhis
book,
so
that
you
will
hove
a
rough
idea
of the
contents.
This will
help
you when
reverting
later
on
to
any
one
of
the chapters.
It is
a good
plan
to
open
out
to the
left
page
1,
for
the
information
given
on
that
page
should
be
read
in conjunction
with
the
directions. The
same
applies
to
page
2.
Your
attention
is drawn
particularly to sections
1,
2
and
4.
After
reading
the information contained
in
those
three
chapters
you
will
be
thoroughly
ac
quainted with
the working
of your sewing
machine;
it will
become
a
living
thing
to
you,
placed
under
your
care
and protection.
The
more
you
understand
your
machine,
the
greater
will
be your appreciation
of
its
scope
and
capacity.

The
following
accessories
are available
at
slight
additional
charge
1
box
for
housing
accessories,
No.
1466
a
1
edger
with
guide
Z—153a
Page
5
1
feller
No.
823
1
hemmer
No.
Z—824, 4
mm
•
“
bobbins
No.
970
6
sewing machine
needles,
System
No. 130
R
1 threader,
No.
188
•
11
1 screwdriver,
No.
140
c
(medium
size)
1
screwdriver,
No.
533
(small size)
•
14
1 oil
can
(plastic),
with
oil, No.
132
a
18
1
quilter guide,
No.
101
1 quilter guide holder,
complete
with
screws,
No.
Z—1016
24
1
hemmer
2
mm
No
827
4
1 ruffler,
No.
116
1
guide
No
535
1 thumb
screw,
No.
410
1 hemmer
No.
Z—827
(2
mm)
Contents
I
Important
Hints
Choice of
Needle
Sizes
and
Thread
Numbers
1.
To
Prepare
for
Sewing
2.
Sewing
3.
Cleaning
and
Oiling
4.
Cause
of
Faults
and
Simple
Home
Service
The
Electric
Motor
3

Presser
feet
and
their
designations
Important
Hints
Always
obtain
a
I
and
n
ee d
I
e
s
from
your
Sewing
Machine
Dealer.
Never
use just
any
kind
of lubricating
oil,
but
only
best
quality
sewing
machine
oil.
Use
only
needles
of
System No.
130.
Only
Sewing
Machine
Experts
should
be
entrusted
with
any
repairs
to
your
machine.
Recommended
Needle
and
Thread
Sizes
Size
of
Thread
System
130
R
Cotton
Silk
Size
of
Needle
Fine
Fabrics
georgette,
chiffon
botiste, voile,
80 0
to
60
or
70
lawn
and
fine
silks
to
000
100
twist
LighIweyhi
Fabrks
dress
silks
and
cottons,
shirtings,
70
A
&
B
80
sheer woolens
and
draperies
to
twist
80
Medium
Fabrics
lightweight woolens,
cretons,
heavy
50
B
&
C
90
silks
and
rayons,
muslin,
brocades
to
twist
and
gabardine
70
Heavy
Fabrics
coating,
denim,
corduroy,
slipcover
40
C&D
100
fabrics,
bed tickings
and lightweight
to
twist
anvos
50
For
darning
and embroidery
we
recommend
c
o
I
o
u
r
-
f
a
st
m
e
r
Ce
r
i
s
e
d
thread
No.
50
(for
upper
and
u
n
d
e
r
thread)
and needles
No.
60—70.
Standard presser
foot
Edger
with
Guide
Feller
823
Z—540
a
Z—153
a
Fabrics
Hemmer
Z—824
Hemmer
Z—827
RuttIer
116
Guide
535
If
you
want
to sew
very
fine
texture
materials
or
excep
tionally heavy-weight fabrics,
first
try
the
needle
and
thread
selected
on
a
suitable
piece
of
material.
For
the
under
thread
(in
the
bobbin)
preferably
employ
a slightly
softer
and
thinner
thread
than
in
the
needle.
For
woollen
and
silk
goods
you
will
mostly
use
sewing
silk;
both
threads
should
be identical.
Quilter
guide
holder
Z—1016
with
101
4
Quilter
guide
101
with
Z—1016
5

Under
Threading
To
prepare
for
sewing
I
‘
I
Before
despatch
from the
works,
each
machine
is
subjected
to
a
severe test
run.
Therefore,
should
you
experience
any
trouble
with the
machine,
the
cause
may
well
be
due
to
wrong
manipulation.
Do
not
interfere
with
any
settings
without
first
carefully
checking
the
upper
and
under
thread
ing,
the
tensions,
the
needle and
the position
of
the
feed
dog,
the
control
of
which
should
be
set
at
“Sewing”.
Inserting
the
Needle
Raise
the
needle
bar
to
its
highest
point.
With
thumb
and
forefinger
of
your
left
hand
insert
the
needle
into
the
clomp.
Push
the
needle
up
as
far
as
it
will
go.
Th
e
f
I
a
side
of
the
needle
shank
must
be
to
the
right.
Then
tighten
the thumb screw.
Attaching
the Presser
Foot
Slide
the
foot
on
to the
presser
bar, right
up
against
the
screw
and
firmly
tighten
the
latter
with
a
screwdriver.
All
other
types
of
presser
feet
supplied
for
use
with
the
machine
ore
attached
and
secured
in
the
same
manner
Place
the
needle
bar
in
top
most
position
and
tilt
the
head
over.
With
thumb
and
fore
finger
of
your
left
hand,
grip
the
small
latch
on
bobbin
case
(Fig.
1),
lift
the
latch
and
re
move
the
case
with
bobbin
inside.
Release
the
latch,
turn
the
bobbin
case
upside
down,
and
let
the
bobbin
drop
into
your
other
hand.
Winding
the Bobbin
Before
winding
the
bobbin, disconnect
the sewing
mecha
nism.
Proceed
as
follows:
Hold
the
balance
wheel
with
your
left
hand and
loosen
the
stop
motion
screwwith
your
right
hand;
this
screw
must
be turned
outwards
as
far
as
it
will
go
(Fig.
2).
After
placing
the
reel
on
the
spool
pin,
draw
the
thread
once
round
tensioner
a
(fig.
3)
and
to
bobbin
b
placed
on
the
winder
pin.
With
your
left
hand
then
wind
the
end
of
the
thread
a
few times from
front
to
back
round
the
bobbin,
Fig.
2
Figs.
1—5
Removing
the
Bobbin Case
Fig.
1
6
7

Upper Threading
Fig.
6
Place
the spool
of
thread
on
the
spool
pin
and
bring
the
thread below
the
guide and
to the
left,
then
from
left
to
right
into
the
upper
slot
in
guide
b
and
from
right
to left
through the lower
slot.
From
there pass
the
thread
down and
from
right
to
left
through
the
slot
in
thread
tensioner
and take-up
spring
c,
then
up
again
and
from
right
to
left
through the
take-up
lever
d,
then
down
and
through
the
guide
in
nee
dle
bar
a and
finally
from
left
to
right
through the
eye
of
the
needle.
Replacing
the
Bobbin
Case
With thumb
and
forefinger
of
your
left
hand
hold
the
bobbin
case
(complete
with
bobbin) by
its
latch
(Fig.
1)
and
slide
the case
on
to
the
small stud
in
the
center
of
the hook
(Fig.
5).
Now
press
that
the
latch
clicks
into
pa-
Fig
5
the
bobbin case
down
so
sition.
Fig.3
Now
press
on
the
winder
by
means
of
latch
and
turn
the
free
balance
wheel over
towards
you
to
set
it in
motion
as
you
start
treadling.
The
winder action
stops
automatically
when
the
bobbin
is fully
loaded.
Finally,
the
stop
motion screw
is firmly
retightened
by
screwing it
inwards
against
the
balance
wheel.
Threading
the
Bobbin
Case
Fig.
4
Hold
the
case
with
its
open
side
up
and
insert
the
bobbin
as
indicated
by
the
arrow,
i.
e.
so
that
the
thread
un
winds
from
left
to
right
(Fig.
4).
Pass
the
thread
through
slot
a, along and
underneath
the
spring
b
and
out
through
opening
c in
the
side
of
the
bobbin case.
Fig.
6
8
9

Picking up
the
Lower
Thread
—
Fig.
7
General
Turn
the
balance
wheel
to
move
the
thread
take-up
lever
to
its
highest
point.
Place
the
material
under
the
presser
foot,
lower the
presser
bar
and
commence
to
sew.
When
4
making
the
first few
stitches, hold the
ends
of
bath
threads
in
your
hand,
so
that
they
do
not
get
sewn
down or
get
drawn
into
the
race.
Never
force
the
material
along
by
either
pushing
or
pulling
it,
but
merely
guide
the
work;
otherwise
the
needle
may
break.
It
is
best
to
always
make
a
short
practice
run
on
a
remnant
before
commencing
on
your
work.
When
sewing
hard
or
thick
pieces
of
material,
or
when
stitching
across
seams,
assist
the
needle
by
carefully
turning the
balance
wheel
with
your
hand.
This
practice
will
guard
against
the
needle
bending
or
breaking.
Before
sewing the
corner
of
a
seam,
with
a
hand
sewing
needle draw
a thread
through
the
fabric
and
sew
along
one
edge.
At
the
corner
leave
the
needle
in
the
fabric
to
act
as
a pivot,
turn
the
material and
continue
to sew
while
holding
both
ends
of
the tacking
thread.
This
way
you
will
prevent
stoppages
at
corners
which,
otherwise, easily
occur.
Setting
the
Length
of
Stitch
—
Fig.
8
The
machine
has
in
front,
on
the
r
i
g
h
I,
a
stitch
regulating
lever
awith
thumb
screw
b,
with
which
the
required
stitch
length
may
be
selected
on
the
scale
c.
Before
you
can
make
any
adjustment
the
thumb
screw
must
be
turned
to
the
left.
The
more you
loosen
this
screw,
the
greater
the
up
and
down
movement
of
the
regulating
lever
will
be,
and
the
stitches
will
increase
or
decrease
accordingly.
For
re
verse
sewing
you
must
move
the
lever
to the
top.
[
2.
Sewing
With
your
left
hand
hold
the
end
of
the
upper
thread above
the
bed-
plate,
leaving the
thread
slack.
Turn
the
balance
wheel
towards
you
to
allow the
needle
to
travel
down
and
up
again
to
its
high
est
point;
the
lower
thread
will
be
brought
up
in
aloop
through
the
needle
plate.
Place
the
ends
of
both
threads
under
the
presser
foot
to
the
back.
Do
not
move
the
threaded
needle
unlessa
piece
of
ma
terial
has
been
placed
beneath
it.
Fig.
7
4i
Fig.
8
—a
—b
10
11

Regulating
the Thread
Tensions
—
Figs.
9—li
The
Upper
Thread
Tension
is
regulated
by
turning
the
setting
flange
of
upper
thread
tensioner
a
(Fig.
6).
—
Clockwise
turning
increases
the
tension;
anti-
clockwise
turning loosens
the
tension.
The
Un
d
e
r
T
hr
e
a
d
T
e
n
s
I
o
n is
regulated
by
turn
ing
the
small
screw
a(Fig.
4)
with
a
screwdriver.
Here
too
the
tension
is
increased
by
clockwise
adjustment and
decreased
by
anti-clockwise
adjustment.
It
is generally
only
necessary
to adjust
the
upper
thread
tension.
Satisfactory
stitching
is possible
only
if
upper
and under
thread
tensions
are
correctly
set.
After
you
have
sewn
an inch
or two,
inspect the
stitching
on
top
and
underneath.
The
tensions
are
satisfactory
if
both
threads
are
drawn
into
the
material
e
q
u
a
II
y
and
lock
in
the
center
of
the
work
(see
Fig.
9). If, however,
loops
have
formed
on
the
underside,
the
upper
thread
is
too
slack
and
must
be
given
more
tension
by turning the
setting
flange
a
(Fig.
6) to
the
right
(Fig.
10).
If
loops
continue
to
be
formed
on
the
u
n
d
e
r
s
i
d
e
of
the
work,
it
is
possible
that
the
under
thread
has
been
tensioned
too
severely
and
this
must
be
corrected
by
turning
the
small
screw
a
(Fig.
4)
a
little
to
the
left.
If,
on
the
other
hand,
the
thread
is
lying
fIat
o
n
to
p
of
h
e
m
a
t
e
r
i
a
I
(Fig.
ii),
or
if
loops
hove
formed,
the
upper
thread
may
be too
tight
and
you
must
loosen the
Regulating
the
Presser
Foot
The
presser foot
must exert on
the
material sufficient
pressure
to
ensure
satisfactory
feeding
of the
material.
The
presser
bar
is
set for
oIl
regular
sewing
work
on light
and
medium
weight
goods.
Heavy
or hard texture
materials
require
more
pressure.
To
increase
the
pressure, turn
the
setting screw
to the
right;
to
decrease
the
pressure,
turn
the screw
to
the
left,
I.
e.
upwards.
Removing
the
Work
from
the
Machine
Raise
the
take-up
lever to
its
highest
and
lift
the
presser
foot.
Draw
the work
to the back
of the
machine,
away
from the
needle.
The
ends
of the
thread
should
be cut
approx.
3’ from the needle
and
be placed
under
the
foot
to the
back, thus
leaving
the
machine
ready
for
the
next
run.
b
-J
tension
by
turn
ing
the
flange
a
—
Fig.
6
—
to
the
left.
If this
adjustment
does
not improve the
stitch
forming,
the
under thread
must
then
re
ceive more
ten
sion
by
turning
__
the screw
a
—
Fig.
4
—
to the
right.
F;g. 9
Fg.
10
Fig. 11
12
13

[
After
cleaning
apply
a
few
drops
of
high-grade
sewing
I
machine
oil
to all
working
parts.
Do
not,
however,
apply too
much
oil;
a
few
drops
at
the
right
places
will
prove
ode
(
quote.
After
oiling
run
the
machine
rapidly
for
a
short
while
and
then,
before
you
start
to sew,
wipe
all
parts
]
clear
of
any
surplus
oil.
If
the machine
has
not
been
used
for
some
time,
or
if
it
has
been
used
continuously,
a
few
drops
of
paraffin
should
be
applied
to
all
lubrication
points
and
the
mach ine
worked
rapidly for
a
minute
or
two.
Then
clean
the
mochine
with
a
soft
rag
and
oil
the mechanism.
Fig.
12
Machine
Head
The
following
points,
which
ore marked
thus
0
in
the
illu
with
open
stration
must
be
cleaned
and
oiled
in
proper
sequence:
Face
Cover
Plate
Regular
oiling
is
essential
for
the
smooth
running
of
the
machine.
Lint
and
thread
ends
settle
in
the
working
me chanism
ond
eventually impede
the
free
running
of
the
machine.
It
is
necessary,
therefore,
to
give
all
parts
specified
here
after
a
regular,
thorough
cleaning.
Never
use
a
screw
driver
or
other
metal
instrument for
cleaning,
not even
a
needle,
but
only
a
small
pointed
stick,
so
that
no
damage
is
done
to
the
sewing mechanism.
Cleaning
and
oiling
Fig.
13
Machine
Head
with
removed
Arm
Cover
Plate
14
15

1.
The
Head
(Fig.
12).
Open
the
hinged
face
cover
plate.
2.
The Arm
(Fig.
13).
Lubricate
all
points
marked
thus 0.
3.
The
Needle
Plate.
Take
out the screws
and
remove the
plate.
4.
The
Hook
(Fig.
14).
Move
the
needle
bar
to
its
high
est and
tilt
the
head
over
on
its
hinges.
With
a
small
brush
dust the
hook.
Apply
a
few
drops
of
paraffin
to
the
race
between
the
hook
II
and
the
bobbin
carrier
IV;
then
work
the
mach
ine
rapidly
for
a
short
while.
Now
apply
a
few
drops
of
oil.
Should
this
prove
inef
fective
in
dislodging
any
dirt
from
the hook,
or
should
thread
ends
impede
the
free
move
ment,
then the
hook
must
be
carefully
dis
mantled.
This is
done
by
removing
the
race
guide
Ill,
after the
small
screws
1,
2
and
3
have
been taken
out. Now the
bobbin
carrier
IV
can
be removed.
All
dismantled parts
should
be carefully
wiped
with
a
clean
rag.
Before
reassembling the
parts
move
the
thread
take-up
lever
to
• •
.
.
Fig.
16
its
highest
point
so that
the point
I
of
the
hook
is
on
the
left,
and
on
top,
as
shown
in
Fig.
14.
Then
re
place
the
bobbin
carrier
IV
into the
hook
II,
and
let
the
retaining
key
engage
into
the groove
n
—
see
Fig. 14.
Finally,
replace
the
guide
Ill
and
fix it
down
with
screws
1,
2 and
3.
You
must
also
lubricate
all
Fig. 17
other
points
indicated
in
the
illustrations,
making sure
that after
oiling
oIl
ports
ore properly
replaced.
Ii’
Fig.
14
Fig.
15
Fig. 18
View
of Underside
of Machine
Bedplote
16
17

2.
Certain
working
ports
of the
machine
are
dry
— apply
Cause of
faults and
simple
home
service
4.
___________________________________________________
a
few
drops
of
oil.
3. A
component
part
has
worked
itself
loose
—
retighten
it
with a
screwdriver
Please always
remember:
many
machine
troubles
may
be
caused
by
your not
carefully
following
these
working
instructions.
In
many
cases, faulty
working
of
your
mach-
The
upper
thread
breaks
me
can be remedied
merely
by
cleaning
and
oiling.
1.
Inferior
quality,
knotty
sewing
thread
breaks
easily
—
use a
better
quality.
Machine
works
heavily
2.
The
needle selected
is
too
fine
for
the
thread
or
ma
terial
used
—
use
athicker
needle
(see
page 5:
“Relat
1.
Thread
ends
have
become
entangled
in
the
hook
race
—
ive
Needle and
Thread
Sizes”).
remove
all
obstructions.
2.
Certain
working
parts
of the
machine
are
dry
—
apply
The
upper
thread
tension
is
too severe
—
loosen
the
a
few
drops
of
oil,
setting
flange
on
tensioner
(see
page
12:
“Regulating
the
ThrecidTensions”)
3.
The
machine
is
dirty
— thoroughly
clean
it.
4.
The
needle
is
wrong
inserted,
or
it
is
bent
—
change
4.
The
wrong
kind
of
oil
has
been
used
—
clean
the
mach
ine with
paraffin.
the
needle
(see
page
6:
Inserting
the
Needle)
5.
The
eye of the
needle
has
a
knife
edge
—
change
the
needle.
The
machine
is
noisy
1.
Thread
ends have
become
entangled
in
the
hook
race
—
6.
Thread ends
or
dirt
are
interfering
with
the free
move
remove
all
obstructions.
ment
of
the
feed
dog,
resulting
in
bad
feeding
of the
18
19
i.
.

material
— remove the
needle plate
and thoroughly
thread
used
— change
the
needle
or
the
thread
to
give
clean
the feed dog.
the
correct
relation
between
the two;
(see
page
5:
“Re-
7.
The
bobbin
case
has
developed a
rough edge, causing
lative
Needle
and
Thread
Sizes”).
the thread to
break
— remove
the case
and
consult
a
4.
The
thread
curls,
because
it
is
unsuitable for
machine
sewing machine
specialist.
sewing
— use
a
different
thread.
5.
The
needle
used
is
not
of
the
correct
system
— obtain
The
under thread
breaks
correct
needles
from the
suppliers
of
your
machine.
1.
Inferior
quality,
knotty sewing
thread
breaks easily —
use a
better
quality.
The
needle
breaks
2. The
bobbin
thread tension
is
too severe
— loosen
the
1.
The
needle
is
wrongly inserted
— reset
the
needle.
tension
screw
(see
page
12:
“Regulating
the
Thread
The
needle
isbentorblunt
change
the
needle
(see
p.6:
Tensions”).
“Inserting the
Needle”).
3.
The
bobbin thread
tension
is too
weak
— tighten the
2.
The
needle
used
is
too
fine
for
the
thread
or
material —
screw
with
a
screwdriver (see
page 12:
“Regulating
the
use
a
thicker
needle;
(see
page
5:
“Relative
Needle
and
Thread
Sizes”).
Thread
Tensions”).
3.
The
upper
thread
tension
is
too severe
— loosen
the
setting
flange
on
tensioner;
(see
page
12:
“Regulating
Stitches
are
missed
the
Thread
Tensions”).
1. The
needle
has not
been set
high enough
— change
the
needle, (see
page 6:
“Inserting the
Needle”>.
Faulty
feeding
2.
The
needle
is bent
or blunt
— change the
needle.
1.
Thread
ends or
dirt
are
interfering
with
the
free
move
3. The
needle selected
is too
fine
or
too thick for
the
ment
of
the
feed dog,
resulting
in
bad
feeding
of the
20
21

material
—
remove the
needle plate and
thoroughly
clean
the
feed
dog.
The
material
puckers
1.
Both
tensions
are
too
severe
— loosen the
setting
flange
on
upper
thread
tensioner
and
the
screw
on
bobbin
case;
(see
page
12:
“Regulating
the
Thread
Tensions”).
2.
The
presser
foot
exerts
too
much
pressur
on
the
work
—
reduce
the
pressure by
adjusting
the
regulating
screw
13
—
see
page
1.
Uneven
stitching
1.
The
thread
is
uneven
or
too
thick
— change
the
thread.
2. The
tension
is
wrong
—
regulate
the
tension
(see
p. 12:
“Regulating
the Thread
Tensions”).
3.
Upper
and
under
thread are
drawing
off
unequally
from reel
or
bobbin respectively,
owing to
a
dirty
set
ting
flange or
bobbin
—
remove
all
obstructions.
4.
The
needle
is
blunt
or
bent
—
use
a new
needle.
5.
The
bobbin
is
wrongly
positioned
—
remove
the
bobbin
case and
make
sure
the
bobbin
is properly
inserted
in
the
case; (see
page
9:
“Replacing
the
Bobbin
Case”).
22
In
all
cases
where faulty
working
of
your
sewing machine
cannot
be
rectified
by
your
following
the
above
directions,
please
consult
your
Sewing
Machine
Dealer.
He
will
al
ways
be
glad
to
advise
you.
Fig.
W
Rear
View
of machine showing
support opened
23

The E’ectric
Motor
1.
Line
Voltage
The
motor works
on
115
volts.
2.
Tensioning
the
Drive
Belt
a)
Loosen
both
screws
holding
the
guard to
motor
and
remove the
guard.
Fig.
20
shows
Motor
Housing
with
Guard
removed.
b) Loosen
the two screws
b
which
are now
visible
— see
Fig.
20.
c)
By
moving the
motor
up or down, the correct belt
tension
may
be obtained.
Retighten
both screws.
3. Changing
the
Carbon
Brushes
a)
Remove
the
Vbelt.
b)
Take
out the
4
screws
c
in
motor end
shield
plate
—
see
Fig.
20.
The
motor,
complete
with
plate,
can
now be
drawn
from
the motor
housing,
to give free
access
to
the
carbon
brushes
— see
Fig.
20.
24
c
Fig.
20
End
shield
plate
with
screws
for
regulating
the
belt tension and
with fixing
screws for
access
to
carbon
brushes
25

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