Quickmill LUCCA M58 User manual

Dual Boiler Espresso Machine
by
Made In Italy
Revised January 201
LUCCA M58

LUCCA M58 !
Owner’s Manual Page 1
Introduction
Thank you for your business! You are going to love your new LUCCA M58 Dual Boiler
Espresso Machine. It combines classic beauty, value, and great performance for making the
best espressos, cappuccinos, and lattes you’ve ever tasted! These instructions include tips
that will help bring out the Barista that’s hidden within! Enjoy your new machine!
First Time Set Up
•Before using your machine, test your water for hardness using the provided test
strips. Fill a glass with cold tap water; dip the tip of the test strip into the water for one
second, then pull the strip out of the water and hold it horizontally for fifteen seconds.
After fifteen seconds, compare the color of the strip to the chart on the side of the
package to determine how many grains of hardness is in your tap water. Three grains or
less of hardness is acceptable to be used in the machine.
Note: Should your water’s hardness level exceed three grains, then it is strongly
recommended that an in tank softener be used or a different source of water that has
been tested for hardness. Some bottled water can be extremely hard and should always
be tested before using. Using a Brita or PUR style pitcher or faucet filter does NOT
remove any hardness from the water and should only be used in the machine if your
water source is under 3 grains of hardness. Using hard water in the machine will affect its
performance and may cause damage to the machine, which is not covered under
warranty.
•Open the hinged reservoir door on the top of the machine and remove the water
reservoir. Rinse the water reservoir out and fill with cold softened water and then install it
back into the machine being careful not to spill any water inside the machine.
•Be sure that the silicone line is sitting in the bottom of the reservoir like shown. There
is a notch on the right side of the reservoir for the line to sit in and the float should be on
the left side of the machine.
•Make sure the silicone line is not pushing
the float down or the PID and heating lights
will not turn on.

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Owner’s Manual Page 2
First Time Set Up, Continued
•Before plugging the machine in, verify the steam and hot water knobs are closed and
the brew lever is in the down position. Also make sure the power switches are in the
off position and the drip tray is in place.
•Plug the machine into the outlet*and then turn the coffee boiler power switch to the
on position.
•The pump will come on to fill the boilers and then will turn off after the boilers have
completed filling.
•If the pump turns off and the PID and heating lights do not come on then the water
reservoir needs to be refilled. It may take 2 reservoirs to completely fill both boilers.
•After the boilers have finished filling then place whichever portafilter you intend to use
into the group head. Then lift the brew lever to activate the pump and keep the lever
up until water comes out of the portafilter for at least 15 seconds and then lower the
brew lever.
•The heating indicator light and PID will illuminate and the machine will start heating.
You will hear some gurgling noises and a small amount of steam and water will be
discharged into the drip tray. This is normal to allow for the release of air and the
expansion of water in the boiler.
•If you plan on steaming milk or using the hot water wand then also be sure to turn on
the steam boiler power switch. The coffee boiler power switch must also be on for the
steam boiler to operate.
•The machine should reach temperature in approximately 15 minutes, but to make
delicious espresso with thick rich crema it is necessary to allow the machine to be
heated for 30-45 minutes with the portafilter kept in the grouphead.
*The electrical outlet must be a 3 prong 115V grounded outlet. No adaptors or extension
cords should be used. A timer may be used to turn the machine on and off, but it must be a 3
prong grounded timer rated for 15 amps. A GFCI outlet is highly recommended but is not
necessary.
Before Each Use
•Verify the steam and hot water knobs are both closed and your brew lever is pointing
straight down.
•Fill the reservoir with cold softened water.
•Place whichever portafilter you intend to use into the group head and then turn the
coffee boiler power switch to the on position. If you plan on using the steam or hot
water wand then also turn on the steam boiler power switch.
•Let the machine warm up for 30-45 minutes for optimal performance.

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Owner’s Manual Page 3
Normal Operation
Gauge
•The gauge on the left is for your boiler steam pressure. After turning the machine on it
will take approximately 15 minutes before the gauge will show any pressure. Once up
to pressure the gauge will cycle back and forth roughly between 1.2-1.7 bar
depending on the steam boiler temperature setting. Should you need to adjust the
steam pressure please refer to the PID section of the owner’s manual.
•The gauge on right is for your pump (brew) pressure. When sitting idle the gauge is
reading trapped pressure in the system and may vary. To get an accurate pump
pressures reading, activate the pump by lifting the brew lever. You may also check
the pump pressure by installing your backflush disc in the portafilter and lock it into
the grouphead and then raise the brew lever. After a few seconds the pressure should
rise to about 9 bar. When you make espresso the pressure on the gauge will be
slightly less at about 8.5 - 9. bar which is normal. This can be helpful in setting up
your grinder. If your pressure goes to 9 bar with the backflush disc, but when you
make espresso it is less than 8 bar then that means you need to go finer with your
grind which will create more resistance to raise the pressure. Should you need to
adjust the pump pressure please refer to the maintenance section of the owner’s
manual for instructions on setting the pump pressure.
Normal Operation, Continued
Lights
•On the front of the machine there are 4 indicator lights. The white indicator lights
illuminate whenever the coffee boiler or the steam boilers are turned on.
•The Red indicator lights indicate when the boiler is heating. It is normal for these lights
to flash rapidly back and forth when the PID is maintaining the proper temperature in
both boilers.
Pump
•The machine is equipped with a rotary pump that is mounted underneath the motor so
as to protect the motor in case of pump failure.

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Owner’s Manual Page 4
•Periodically the pump will come on by itself to maintain the proper water level in the
boiler. Sometimes the pump will come on when you turn on the machine and
sometimes it may not depending on the water level in the boiler which is normal.
•The pump (brew) pressure is regulated by the expansion valve. To learn how to set
the pump pressure, please refer to the maintenance section of the owner’s manual.
Water Reservoir (Tank)
•The water reservoir can be accessed by opening the hinged reservoir door on the
top of the machine. It is recommended that the reservoir be removed prior to filling
to prevent the spilling of water inside the machine which can cause damage to
sensitive electrical components. Should water accidently get spilled inside the
machine then immediately turn the power switch to the off position and unplug the
machine from the electrical outlet. Do not plug the machine back in until it has had
at least 1 full day to dry out. If it does not operate after that time then unplug the
machine and refer to the troubleshooting section of the owner’s manual.
•The reservoir must be installed properly for the machine to function. The float
inside the reservoir must be on the left side of the machine. Also be sure the
reservoir is seated as far down as possible and the silicone hoses are not pushing
the float down or the PID and heating lights will not turn on.
•The machine is equipped with a magnetic float in the water reservoir to detect the
water level. When the water level gets low the PID and heating lights will go out and
the pump will no longer function until the reservoir has been refilled.
•The reservoir should be cleaned at least once a week with mild dish detergent and
rinsed thoroughly before use. DO NOT PUT IN DISHWASHER!!!
•Depending on your water quality it may be necessary to periodically sanitize the
reservoir or if you are using hard water and have a mineral build up inside. White
vinegar can be used to sanitize and will also remove the mineral deposits that can
accumulate.

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Owner’s Manual Page 5
Direct connect
•This machine has the capability of also being used as a plumbed in unit.
Included with the braided water line are two fiber washers. One washer is to be used
in between the elbow connection of the braided line and where it attaches to the back
bottom of the machine. The other washer is to be used if you will not be using the
provided John Guest fitting. (No teflon tape needed)
•Attach the braided water line to the back bottom of the machine using the provided
fiber washer. Attach the other end to your water source using the provided John
Guest fitting. The machine comes standard with a 3/8” John Guest fitting, but a 1/4”
fitting can also be installed. To use the John Guest fitting the tubing needs to have a
clean rounded cut using a tubing cutter or a sharp razor blade. Then insert the tubing
into the John Guest fitting until it bottoms out.
•If you are not going to be using the John Guest fitting then you will need to use the
additional fiber washer and you will need to purchase a 3/8” male BSPP fitting.
•After connecting both ends of the braided water line, turn on the water supply and
verify there are no leaks.
•Before plugging the machine in, verify the steam and hot water knobs are closed and
the brew lever is in the down position.
•Plug the machine in and turn the main power switch to the on position.
•The boiler filling indicator light will illuminate and the pump will come on to start filling
the boiler. The boiler should fill in approximately 60 seconds. If the pump has not
turned off and finished filling after 60 seconds then turn the main power switch off and
wait 5 minutes.
•After waiting five minutes then turn the main power switch on again. The pump should
come back on to continue filling the boiler. If the pump keeps running for more than
45-60 seconds again then unplug the machine and check to make sure that the water
supply is turned on.

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Owner’s Manual Page 6
Direct connect- Continued
•After the boiler has finished filling then place whichever portafilter you intend to use
into the group head. Then lift the brew lever to start the pump and keep the lever up
until water comes out of the portafilter and then lower the lever.
•The heating indicator light will illuminate and the machine will start heating up. You
will hear some gurgling noises and a small amount of steam and water will be
discharged into the drip tray. This is normal to allow for the release of air and the
expanding of water in the boiler and heat exchange.
•The machine should reach temperature in approximately 15 minutes, but to make
delicious espresso with thick rich crema it is necessary to allow the machine to be
heated for 30-45 minutes with the portafilter kept in the grouphead.

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Owner’s Manual Page 7
PID Controller
The PID controller’s display will cycle back and forth to
show the current temperature of each boiler. The
position of the decimal point (2+3) indicates which
boiler the temperature is being shown for at that time.
The picture to the right shows which boiler is
represented by which decimal point.
The left button is used to cycle through the various
settings and the right button allows you to select a
setting to change. After selecting a setting to change
the left/right buttons must be pressed within 2-3
seconds or the display will revert back to the previous
setting.
Setting Temperature
With the machine turned on press both left/right buttons simultaneously until the display reads
T1 then release the keys. T1 is the coffee boiler temperature. Press the right button to see the
current temperature setting. While the temperature is still being displayed press either left/right
button to change the temperature.
After a few seconds the display will revert back to T1, then press the left button to display T2
which is your steam boiler temperature. Press the right button to see the current temperature
setting. While the temperature is still being displayed press either left/right buttons to change the
temperature.
After the display reverts back to T2 then press the left button to save the new temperature
settings and go back to normal operation.
Coffee Boiler Temperature - By default the coffee boiler temperature has been set to 200°F
The recommended brew range is between 195°- 205°F or 90°- 96°C. This can be easily
changed to match the coffee blend you are using and to bring out the different flavor
characteristics in the coffee. A hotter temperature will bring out more of the bittersweet
chocolate flavors and going colder will bring out more of the fruity flavors. Going too hot may
cause the shot to taste bitter and going too cold it may taste sour. Experiment with different
temperatures until you find the one you like best.
Steam Boiler Temperature - The steam boiler temperature has been set to 260° by default
which is approximately 1.25 bars of steam pressure. The pressure may vary slightly at different
elevations. This setting should never be changed unless the machine is at a higher elevation

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Owner’s Manual Page 8
and the pressure exceeds 2 bar in which case the temperature should be reduced by a few
degrees so it does not exceed 1.8 bar.
Advanced PID Settings
Warning - This section allows the user to change the machine from Fahrenheit to Celsius mode
as well as other advanced settings that can greatly affect the performance of the machine.
These settings have been calibrated
using specialized test equipment and
should not be changed unless the user
has a thorough understanding of how a
PID controller operates.
To get into the advanced programming
mode, with the machine turned off hold
down both left/right buttons
simultaniously and then turn the machine
on. Keep holding the left/right buttons
until the display reads F.01 and then
release the buttons.
Use the left button to cycle through parameters and then use the right button to select a
parameter to change. Then use the left/right button to change the selected parameter.
To save the new changes turn the machine off and then back on again.
F.02 Mode Setting - By default the F.02 setting has been set to 4 (15 amp mode) to give priority
to the coffee boiler. The setting can also be set to 6 (20 amp mode) to give power to both
boilers. This can be helpful if you are steaming larger quantities of milk and desire more steam
capacity. If you change the F.02 setting to 6 to power to both boilers, then both power switches
must be on for the machine to operate or neither boiler will heat up.
E1/E2 Offset Setting - The coffee boiler offset setting has been calibrated using a special
Scace device and should not be changed. The steam boiler offset setting is set to 0° by default.
It can be changed up to 5° to increase the steam pressure, but the pressure may vary at higher
elevations so make sure it does not exceed 2 bars of pressure or damage may occur.
Note - The PID controller and heating lights will turn off when the reservoir is empty.
Parameter
Setting
Description
F.01
F
Fahrenheit Mode
C
Celsius Mode
F.02
4
Coffee Priority Mode(Default)
6
Both Boilers Heating
P 1&2
1.5
Proportional
I1
I2
0.05
0.0
Integral
D 1&2
1.5
Derivative
B1
B2
10
6
T1
203°
Coffee Boiler Temperature
T2
255°
Steam Boiler Temperature
E1
27°
Coffee Boiler Offset
E2
0°
Steam Boiler Offset

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Owner’s Manual Page 9
Brewing Espresso
The three main variables of preparing great espresso.
1. Quantity of ground coffee
2. Tamping
3. The grind
Quantity of ground coffee - Loosely fill the basket slightly mounding over the top. Then
lightly run your finger arched across the basket from left to right, right to left, front to back,
and then lay your finger flat on the basket and go from back to front to remove any excess
coffee. This technique helps fill any voids in the basket to help achieve an even extraction.
Tamping - After filling the basket with coffee then use your tamper to apply 30lbs of
pressure evenly on the coffee bed. Then without applying any pressure lightly twist the
tamper on the bed of coffee to “polish” the loose grounds on top. Then lock the portafilter
firmly into the group head and then raise the brew lever to start the extraction. When it has
reached the desired level, lower the brew lever to stop the shot. It is very important to tamp
consistently with the same pressure each time or your shot quality and timing will vary.
The grind - Adjust your grind so that when you activate the pump, the flow of coffee coming
out of the portafilter spout looks like the tapered tail of a mouse. It should take approximately
25 seconds for a 2 oz. double shot. If it is coming out quicker then the grind needs to be
adjusted finer, if it is coming out slower or not at all then the grind should be adjusted
coarser. The grind particle size should look in between powder and salt. Not as fine as
powder, but not as coarse as salt. Getting the right grind is crucial to making delicious
espresso with thick rich crema.
Consistency - The quantity of ground coffee and tamping pressure should always be the
same. Using more or less coffee or tamping lighter or harder will greatly affect the outcome
and timing of the shot. If the shots are not coming out properly then the only variable that
should be changed is the grind.
Cooling Flush - A cooling flush is not needed on a dual boiler machine and may actually
ruin the temperature stability of the shot and is not recommended for optimal performance.
Cleaning Tip:Get into the habit of disposing of the spent grounds immediately after brewing
espresso. After disposing of the grounds, return the portafilter to the group head and raise
the brew lever for a few seconds to rinse away excess oils and loose grounds. By regularly
following this procedure, you will greatly reduce the tar-like buildup on the shower screen
that occurs if you allow coffee oils to dry and bake on the hot group.

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Owner’s Manual Page 10
Steaming Milk - Basics
First, let’s talk about some of the things you need to learn in order to become ‘barista-like’ in
your techniques.
Milk – Whole milk works best to steam, both in technique and in flavor! Lower fat milks contain
mostly water, which will not foam well and will be almost tasteless when steamed. After all your
hard work you will be left with a less than desirable tasting beverage.
Temperature – Your whole milk needs to be as cold as possible to ensure the creamiest,
sweetest, and best tasting micro-foam. Once the milk has reached a temperature between 150-
160 degrees, you must stop the process. The longer amount of time you have with the cold milk
gives you that extra time to continue making the milk creamy and sweet tasting. Milk heated
above 160 degrees will be burnt and taste terrible.
Frothing Pitcher – The size of your pitcher is relative to the size and number of drinks you will
be preparing at the time.
Amount of Milk – Too little milk in your frothing pitcher will cause splashing when you turn on
the steam arm; too much milk will cause overflow and make a huge mess. The pitcher must be
filled between 1/3 to 1/2 full to have the maximum capacity for properly steaming milk. If your
pitcher has a spout, fill it to half an inch below where the spout starts.
Stretching the milk – Refers to the initial heating of the milk and the forceful introduction of air.
Stretching continues until the milk reaches an approximate temperature of 100 degrees or “body
temperature”
Texturizing the milk – Refers to the next phase of frothing whereby the steam wand is
submerged in the milk and the pressure continues to roll the milk. This process breaks down
the large air bubbles into tiny air bubbles, which then creates the smooth and creamy texture
that is most desirable.

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Owner’s Manual Page 11
Steaming Milk - Technique
•As you face your espresso machine, point the steam arm over your drip tray and open up the
steam valve in order to purge out any unwanted water that may have collected inside the
wand due to condensation – you do not want that added to your delicious beverage!
•Next, position the steam arm so it is facing directly toward you and slightly angle it 45
degrees from the base.
•Holding your half-filled steam pitcher with the handle facing you, submerge the tip of the
steam wand approximately an inch below the surface of the cold milk. Your pitcher bottom
should be parallel with the countertop. The steam arm should gently rest in the spout of the
steam pitcher. Now slightly tilt the pitcher left, keeping the arm away from the side of the
pitcher. Open the steam knob completely and position the pitcher so the tip is just below the
surface of the milk. This action creates the ‘stretching’ of the milk – in other words, adding
air to the milk. When done properly, the sound you hear at this point resembles ‘sucking’.
You continue this until the milk reaches an approximate temperature of 100 degrees or “body
temperature”.
•After your milk has reached this ‘body temperature’, submerge the tip of the steam arm
approximately one inch below the surface of the milk to get the milk spinning. This process
continues to roll the milk over itself again and again – breaking the large air bubbles into tiny
air bubbles – resulting in a new creamy and sweeter ‘texture’ of the milk. When your milk
has reached approximately 155 degrees or the bottom of the pitcher becomes too hot to hold
then turn the steam knob off.
•Using a steaming thermometer is helpful when you are learning to steam milk. As you gain
more experience and become more comfortable with the process you will be able to steam
milk without the help of a thermometer. If you notice in the procedure above we mention
temperatures and we also mention “body temperature” and the pitcher being “too hot to hold”
We mention this because body temperature is 98.6 which is real close to 100 degrees and
when the pitcher becomes too hot to hold the milk will be around 150 degrees. This makes it
very easy to steam milk without a thermometer. You will “stretch” the milk until the pitcher
becomes body temperature and then you start the “texturizing” of the milk until the pitcher
becomes too hot to hold on the bottom and then you’re all done.

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Owner’s Manual Page 12
Steaming Milk - Tips
Helpful Tips and Information
•When turning the steam knob off, always keep the tip under the surface of the milk for
approximately 3 seconds. If you pull it out too soon, you will destroy the nice velvety
micro-foam
•After removing the steam wand from the milk, position it over the drip tray and then open
the steam knob for 1-2 seconds to clean out any trapped milk inside the tip and then wipe
it down with a damp cloth immediately or the milk will dry out on the steam wand and will
be difficult to clean.
•While texturizing the milk, if you lower the tip too far into the milk you create turbulence
rather than rolling. Turbulence will not make micro-foam.
•If there are a few bubbles in the milk after you have finished, wait 5-10 seconds to allow
all the remaining bubbles to surface, then simply tap the edge of the pitcher on the
counter and swirl the milk slightly and they will disappear.
•Be sure to keep your steamed milk moving/swirling until you are ready to pour since milk
has a natural tendency to separate.
Hot Water Wand Operation
•The hot water wand uses the steam pressure to push the hot water out of the boiler so
the steam boiler must be up to temperature before it is able to give any hot water.
•To use the hot water wand, position the cup or pitcher under the wand and then open the
hot water knob. Once the water has reached the desired level then close the knob.
Important: Do not remove more than 6oz. of water at any one time until the machine has had
time to refill the boiler. Failure to do so may cause damage to the heating element and will
not be covered under warranty.
Warning:The water from the hot water wand is approximately 250° and exits the boiler under
force due to the steam pressure. Extreme caution is advised when using the wand or injury
may occur.

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Owner’s Manual Page 13
Maintenance
Backflushing is a vital maintenance procedure you must follow to help keep your machine
running flawlessly for years to come. There are two types of backflushing; one with plain
water, and the other with espresso machine cleaner.
Plain water backflushing should be done at least once a week, however if you are so
inclined, feel free to backflush with plain water as often as you like. It won't harm the
machine and keeps the shower screen clean.
To backflush, you use the portafilter’s backflush disc. To remove your single or double
portafilter basket, use the blank portafilter insert. Turn it upside down and use its edge to pry
the basket out of one of your portafilters. (If you always make double espressos, you may
choose to keep the blank portafilter insert in your other portafilter so you always have one
ready.) Next, place the blank insert into the portafilter and slap it hard with the palm of your
hand to secure it into the portafilter.
To perform a plain water backflush, place the portafilter into the group head. Then raise the
brew lever all the way up for 15 seconds, and then lower it. Water will forcefully discharge
out of the bottom of the group into the drip tray; this is normal. Repeat three to five times.
Backflushing with espresso machine cleaner is the same procedure as above with a few
minor differences. The first difference is backflushing with espresso machine cleaner only
needs to be done approximately once a month or every 35-50 espressos. I don't recommend
backflushing with cleaner more often than once every three weeks since overuse will remove
oils that lubricate the brew lever and valves.
To begin, place 1/4 of a teaspoon of espresso machine cleaner into the backflush disc in the
portafilter and then lock the portafilter into the grouphead. Now follow the same procedure
as above until the cleaner is dissolved and the water runs clear (about 5-10 flushes).
Remove the portafilter from the group and rinse thoroughly. Then take a damp cloth and
wipe the underside of the group. After you have finished this procedure, I recommend you
pull a shot of espresso and dispose of it to cure the group. You're finished and ready for
another month of espresso.
Setting Pump (Brew) Pressure
•Remove the grommet on the right side of the machine to
expose the pump adjustment screw shown on the
picture to the right.
•Plug the machine back into the outlet and then turn the
power switch on
•Loosen the lock nut labeled “A” with an adjustable wrench.
(This can be done with your fingers)

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Owner’s Manual Page 14
•Raise the brew lever and then turn the adjustment screw
labeled “B” Turning clockwise will increase the pressure,
counter clockwise to decrease the pressure. Recommend
setting to 9 bar using the lower pump gauge as reference.
•After setting the pressure, lower the brew lever and then
tighten the locknut labeled “A”
Note: After adjusting the pump pressure then you may also need to adjust your grinder.
•Raise the brew lever and then wait a few seconds
for the pressure to rise. After the pressure has
risen, use a flat blade screwdriver to turn the
pump adjustment screw. Turning clockwise will increase the pressure, counter clockwise
to decrease the pressure.
•The recommended setting with the backflush disc is 9 bar. When you make espresso the
pressure may be slightly less due to less resistance.
•If the machine is able to put out 9 bars of pressure with the backflush disc, but when you
make espresso the pressure is less than 9 bars, this means the grind needs to be
adjusted finer which will create more resistance to raise the pressure. It is normal for the
grinder to drift a little over time and using different coffees or depending on the freshness
of the coffee may require a minor grind adjustment to stay in the preferred brew range.
•Tamping pressure can also affect brew pressure so be sure to tamp with the same 30lbs
of pressure each time. Tamping too lightly will cause the pressure to be low and the shot
will come out quicker. Tamping too hard and the pressure will be higher and the shot may
come out too slow or not at all.

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Owner’s Manual Page 15
Group Gasket And Shower Screen Replacement
•The group gasket is a black rubber gasket that makes the seal between the portafilter
and the group head. We recommend replacing the gasket on a yearly basis. The 2B uses
an E61 8.5mm gasket.
•Replacing the group gasket requires the removal of the shower screen as well so we also
recommend replacing the shower screen at the same time.
•Before replacing the group gasket and shower screen the machine should be turned off
and cooled down so that the grouphead is cool to the touch.
Gasket and Screen Removal
There are two ways to remove the group gasket and shower screen depending on how
old they are. If you replace the gasket yearly then the first method shown is
recommended. If the gasket is older and dried out then the second method shown will be
necessary.
Method 1
In the picture to the right shows an indent that
goes around the perimeter of the screen.
Insert either a flat blade screwdriver or a spoon
into the indent and then carefully pry the gasket
and screen down. You may have to do this on a
few different spots to remove it.
Shown Outside Of Machine

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Owner’s Manual Page 16
Gasket and Screen Removal - Continued
•Method 2
If the gasket and screen will not come out using
the previous method then you will need a scratch
awl or ice pick to remove them.
Using the scratch awl or ice pick, deeply pierce
the gasket and then pry it down. If the gasket is
old and dried out then it will be more difficult to
remove and will come out in pieces. Repeat until
all remnants of the old gasket are removed.
Cleaning The Group
•Before installing the new gasket and screen it is very important to clean the group head.
Make up a solution of hot water and backflushing cleanser. Using the provided cleaning
brush and cleanser, clean the group head and be sure the groove that the gasket sits in
is completely free of any residual gasket material and coffee grounds or the new gasket
will not seat properly.
Gasket And Screen Installation
•Step 1
With the writing or beveled side of the gasket
facing up insert the screen into the gasket
as shown to the right. It is also recommended
to use a little bit of food grade lubricant around
the perimeter of the gasket to make installation
easier.
•Step 2
Remove the insert basket from one of your
portafilters and then insert the screen and
gasket into the portafilter as shown to the
right.

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Owner’s Manual Page 17
Gasket and Screen Installation - Continued
•Step 3
With the gasket and screen in the portafilter,
press the portafilter into the group head as
shown. Apply equal upward pressure on the
portafilter so the gasket goes in evenly. Once
the gasket is up far enough then lock the
portafilter into the group head and turn as far
right as possible. Then remove the portafilter
and re-install the insert basket and then work
the gasket up further into the grouphead
using the portafilter with the basket installed.
If you are having trouble then remove the
portafilter and press the screen up further by
hand and then try using the portafilter again.
Maintenance Tip:Replacing the gasket on a yearly basis will make the replacement
procedure much easier. There are also benefits to having a new gasket. It will provide a
better seal for a better espresso extraction and it also enables you to be able to remove
the shower screen without ruining the gasket to provide for better cleaning which will
result in better tasting shots.

LUCCA M58 !
Owner’s Manual Page 18
Maintenance – Continued
Descaling
•Descaling is the process of running a descaling agent such as citric acid through the
machine to remove the accumulation of mineral deposits.
•If you are using softened water then it should not be necessary to descale the machine.
•Often times descaling can cause more problems than it solves. It can react to the minerals
and foam over ruining electrical components. If the solution is too strong it can cause the
chrome plating inside the group to flake off and get in the coffee or if it’s too weak it can
dislodge minerals and cause a blockage. For liability reasons we strongly discourage
descaling and will not provide any instructions on the process.
PID Controller
•The PID controller does not require any maintenance, but if the buttons have not been
used in a long time then the contacts inside the controller can become oxidized and the
buttons may no longer work.
•To resolve this issue with the machine turned off, rapidly and repeatedly press the up and
down arrows over and over again. Do this for up to a minute and it should help clean off
the contacts and the buttons should start working again.
Cleaning The Stainless Steel
•Specialty stainless steel cleaners can be used, but glass cleaner works well also. If there
are dried up water stains then they can be cleaned with white vinegar.
•After cleaning the machine using a dry lint free cloth to buff the machine will provide a
nice mirror finish to the stainless steel.

LUCCA M58 !
Owner’s Manual Page 19
Troubleshooting
No Steam From Steam Wand
•Make sure the coffee boiler and steam boiler power switches have been turned on for at
least 15 minutes.
•Check the upper gauge for steam pressure. Pressure should be around 1.2-1.7 bar. If the
gauge is at zero then refer to the “Not Heating”section of the troubleshooting manual. If
pressure is good then continue with steps below.
•Check the steam tip for a blockage. Clean steam tip holes with a paper clip.
•Check the steam wand for a blockage by unscrewing the steam tip from the wand. Check
the inside of the steam tip for dried up milk and then make sure the white teflon tube in
the steam wand is also free of dried up milk.
•Check the steam knob for proper operation.
Remove the end cap on the end of the steam
knob. Check to make sure that the c-clip that
is shown in the picture is attached.
No Water From Hot Water Wand
•Make sure the coffee boiler and steam boiler power switches have been turned on for at
least 15 minutes.
•Check the upper gauge for steam pressure. Pressure should be about 1.2-1.7 bar. If the
gauge is at zero then refer to the “Not Heating”section of the troubleshooting manual. If
pressure is good then continue with steps below.
•Check the hot water knob for proper operation. Remove the end cap on the end of the
hot water knob. Check to make sure that the c-clip shown in the picture above is
attached.
Note:If the steam gauge is showing normal pressure, but then when you open the steam or hot water
knobs the pressure immediately drops to zero then heats normally afterwards that is called a vapor
lock. This is caused by a sticking vacuum breaker valve not allowing the air pressure to escape the
boiler during heat up.