rc3Dprint QUICKIE User manual

J
PRINTING AND
ASSEMBLY
INSTRUCTION

THANK YOU
Thank you for downloading this Quickie. These models take many hours of work to make
available to you so please don’t share the STL files with others. Send them to
www.rc3print.com where they can download the models themselves. This enables me to
continue to develop new models to make them available for download.
This document aims to help you print and assemble your aircraft. Our designs are made to
be simple, this model is designed explicitly with LW-PLA in mind, so it incorporates carbon
tube spars. If you print it from regular PLA it will obviously be heavier and you should take
this into account.
3D printers often have many differences so you may need to tweak settings to get the best
results.
Included in the document you will find Cura profiles and layouts for each part and assembly
instructions. Many of the components in the design are solid bodies, this has some advantages
over hollow bodies in that you can adjust some settings such as wall thickness, infill
percentage, etc. As such we recommend using Cura to slice the files. The walls of these solid
bodies are single line 0.4mm thickness to reduce weight. As you are printing and
assembling the model yourself we take no liability for damage or loss resulting from your
use of these files. Please fly responsibly and follow all local laws.
Share your results on Instagram, Facebook, or by email and tag @rc3dprint for discount
codes on future orders.

PARTS LIST
REQUIRED
Motor - 2836 motor (or similar) - 1 x ESC and LIPO as required - 3S/4S battery
4 - Channel radio kit minimum. 6 channels preferred - one channel for each control surface.
5 x 9g servo
Pultruded carbon tubes: 2 x 1m 8mm Outside Diameter + 1m 10mm Outside Diameter _
8mm Inside Diameter - 1m 3mm Tube -
Assorted small ‘servo’ screws for mounting motors and the fuselages removable join
30cm of 1.1m diameter piano wire for rudder hinge
CA glue
Hot glue (optional for rudder servo)
1 x electric propellers to complement your electric set up, up to 10inch
2 x 25mm x 8mm x 2mm N35 Magnets - https://amzn.to/35GtsmC

INCLUDED STL. FILES
FUSELAGE
AFT WING

CANARD
RUDDER ASSEMBLY

MAIN WHEEL PARTS

SPECIFICATIONS
Wing Span & Area
1055mm - 25.43dm2
Weight of Printed Parts
450g
Flying Weight
(2200mAh 3S): 750g
Wing Loading
25.4 g/dm211.6 oz/sq.ft
Wing Cube Loading
7
Channels
4 Channel Minimum
Centre of Gravity
1.5 cm Behind of trailing edge of canard - See the line on the fuselage.

PRINTING PROFILES
* If printing in LW-PLA from Colorfabb we recommend following the calibration process
suggested by the manufacturer regarding nozzle temp and flow, below are suggestions
LW-PLA PROFILE 1
Save this profile as LW-PLA. Changes to generic ‘Low Quality’ PLA profile.
Layer height
0.24mm
Wall Thickness
0.4mm
Wall line count
1
Top/Bottom Pattern
Lines
Infill Density
3
Infill Pattern
Cubic
Flow
50%
Printing Temperature
240C*
Build Plate Temperature
60C (optional)
Fan Speed
20% Maximum
Generate Support
No
Build Plate Adhesion
Brim or Skirt

PLA PROFILE
Save this profile as PLA PROFILE
A WORD ON RETRACTIONS
With regular PLA a common problem is under extrusion at layer change - to fix this change
the setting extra prime amount in Cura to +1-3mm.
With LW-PLA it is recommended to switch retractions OFF since trying to retract the
foaming filament can cause problems. If you need to fix under extrusion you can still use the
method above but will need to turn retractions ON and set the retraction distance to 0mm.
Wall Thickness
0.4mm
Wall line count
1
Top/Bottom Pattern
Lines
Infill Density
2
Infill Pattern
Cubic
Infill Speed
I suggest double the normal printing speed.
Printing Temperature
215C
Build Plate Temperature
60C (optional)
Fan Speed
20% Max
Generate Support
No
Build PLate Adhesion
Skirt

ASSEMBLY
1. DRY FIT EACH PIECE TOGETHER BEFORE GLUING IN
PLACE. THIS IS TO CHECK FOR FIT.
2. THE RUDDER HINGE IS GLUED IN PLACE WITH THE
FIN DURING ASSEMBLY. EITHER FIN 2 OR THE
RUDDER BOTTOM NEEDS TO BE GLUED ON LAST
WITH THE HINGE IN PLACE.
3. THE AILERONS AND ELEVATORS ARE GLUED IN PLACE
DURING WING CONSTRUCTION.
4. THROUGHOUT THE BUILD, ADHESIONS SHOULD BE
CAREFULLY REMOVED AND FACES TO BE GLUED
TOGETHER SHOULD BE SANDED FIRST TO ENSURE
GOOD CONTACT. THIS IS CRITICAL. TIME TAKEN
HERE WILL ENSURES YOUR AIRCRAFT IS STRONG.
-Begin by marking out the drill holes for your motor mount. I use the small servo sized
screws in a 1mm drilled hole. A mount plate to be printed in regular PLA or ABS is
provided. This goes inside the fuselage 1, you can glue it in place then the drill the mount
holes all at once.
-Glue together fuselage pieces 1, 2 and 3. It is a good idea to fit the rudder servo into
fuselage 3 at this stage. A dab of hot glue on the sides of the servo works well for this.
4 MUST READ POINTS

Check which way round the servo should go by sighting the servo control rod hole on
Fuselage 4.
-Fuselage 4, 5 include a 3mm carbon rod, which also goes into fuselage 3. Dry fit these pieces
together to check the length of the rod then glue them together. It is also a good idea to
connect the servo wire to the rudder servo at the same time, running it through to the
tail, you can cut the rudder end to size later.
-Glue Fin 1 and Fin 2 to the tail. Put the rudder section in place and run the rudder hinge
up into the Fin. You can then glue on the Rudder Bottom part. The tail wheel arm is
attached with a 2mm pice of wire you could you coat hanger. You may need to drill out
the holes to fit. Depending on the expansion of your filament you may need to sand down
the tail wheel arm to ensure it moves OK. Add a small rubber band for suspension.
-To complete the fuselage attach your motor, its a good idea to feed your ESC’c wire
through the front of the fuselage to connect it up. Once you’re happy with the motor
mounting you can glue on the cowling.
-The wings are assembled around carbon tubes. Due to blobs and stringing you may need
to use an appropriately sized drill bit to clean out the holes. I have found it is a good idea
to do this with he drill bit in hand rather than attached to a drill.
-In fuselage 1 and 3 you need to insert the carbon tubes to act as sleeves for the spars. It is
a 10mm OD (outside diameter), 8mm ID (inside diameter) tube. Insert the full length
tube first and mark out where you need to cut it to be flush with the fuselage. The canard
wings can remain removable by drilling a small hole through the carbon sleeve and wing
spar at the appropriate points on the bottom of the fuselage with the wing in place. Small
screw then hold the canard in position during flight. The aft wing is currently not
removable and should be glued.
-Both wings utilise a 3mm carbon tube for the control surface hinge. They also stop the
wing from turning by reaching into the fuselage. Due to the angles the aft wing rear spar
can only reach 5mm-10mm or so into the fuselage and needs a bit of help to get it in
place.

-The wheel hubs are printed in PLA and the tyres printed in TPU. You can drill out the
holes for wheel axels to whatever size you wish. You can also use suitably sized pre-
purchased wheels. In order to prevent rubbing its a good idea top use small washers
either side of the wheel.
-Position the rudder linkage to the rudder bottom and connect up to the rudder control
rod.
-To install the canopy, glue the two magnets in place. IT IS HIGHLY IMPORTANT TO
MAKE SURE THE POLES ARE SET CORRECTLY OTHERWISE THE CANOPY WILL BE
REPELLED. Depending on your filament expansion you may need to use a multi tool to
trim the “latch”.
ADVICE FOR MAIDEN FLIGHT
Make sure the control surfaces are moving correctly! The elevator on the front wing should
move down to lift the noise up. It is also possible to have the canard surfaces act as ailerons
and the rear surface act as elevators.
The battery should be positions such that it won’t move, I tend to use sticky telco for this.
Check the CG. Check the CG again! There is a very fine line on the underside of the
fuselage, just behind the canard which gives you the calculated CG position.
I suggest carrying out the maiden flight from a take offroll rather than a hand launch. As
such I would recommend a smooth surface. This enables you to find the neutral elevator
position. In order to avoid an unexpected uncontrollable pitch up I would start with a small
amount of nose down and slowly release the stick once take offspeed is achieved.
Have fun.

CURA COMPONENT PLACEMENT
COWLING
Unique settings: None
FUSELAGE 1
Increase bottom layer thickness to
2mm
FUSELAGE 2
Unique Settings: None

FUSELAGE 3
Unique setting: Supports can be
enabled for the wing root trailing
edges
FUSELAGE 4
Unique Settings: None
FUSELAGE 5
Unique Settings: None

FIN 1
Unique Setting: None
FIN 2
Unique Settings: None
RUDDER
Unique Settings: None

CANOPY
Unique Settings: None
L & R AFT WINGTIP
Unique Settings: None
Can be printed with 0% infill
L & R AFT WING
OUTBOARD
Unique Settings: None

L&R AFT WING INBOARD
Unique Settings: None
L&R AILERON
Unique Settings: None
L&R WHEEL SPAT
Unique Settings: None

L&R CANARD TIP
Unique Settings: This part may
require printing with supports
enabled.
L&R CANARD OUTBOARD
Unique Settings: None
L&R CANARD INBOARD
Unique Settings: None

L&R ELEVATOR 1
Unique Settings: None
Can be printed with 0% infill
L&R ELEVATOR 2
Unique Settings: None
Can be printed with 0% infill
RUDDER BOTTOM
Print this part from PLA or ABS
Unique Settings: