Record Ridgway Tools 405 User manual

.--
-

Record R idgway Tools Ltd .
Ref. 405/5 /77
Parkway Works
Copyr ight 1977
Sheff ield S9 3BL England
Printed in England

o. 405 MU , ·PLA E
The Record Multiplane No. 405 will
perform a wide range of cuts including
all those covered by the 050C Combi-
nation Plane and the 044C and 043
Plough Planes. A range of additional
cutters and bases is also available
which extends . the work still further.
Ploughing, Rebating, Housing, Tongu-
ing, Fillistering, Beading (edge and
centre), Sash Moulding and Slitting
can all be carried out. In addition it
can be fitted with special bases with
cutters to match, to cut hollows,
rounds and nosings.
Having spurs fitted in the body and
sliding section, cuts can be made
across the 'grain. The plane is fitted
with an adjustable fence and depth
gauge and all cutters are fully adjust-
able except for the -lin. (3.2 mm) 4 mm
and .36 in. (4.8 mm). The handles and
fence slide are made from selected
hardwood.

A Body
BSliding Section
CFence
D Fence Knob Bolt and Nut
E Beading Stop
FSliding Section Depth Gauge
FF Sliding Section Depth Gauge Knurled
Screw
G Adjustable Depth Gauge
GG Depth Gauge Locking Screw
H Depth Gauge Adjusting Nut
I Cutter
.J Cutter Adjusting Nut
KCutter Adjusting Screw
L Slitting Cutter Stop
M Slitting Cutter Stop Thumbscrew
NCutter Bolt
oCutter Bolt Wing Nut
P Cutter Bolt Clip and Screw
QSpurs and Screws
R Sliding Section Knurled Screws
SCam Steady
TFence Arm Setscrews
TT Cam Steady Screw
UHardwood Slide for Fence
V Fence Slide Bar Knurled Screw
W Fence Arms, Long
X Fence Arms, Short
V Fence Knurled Screws
Z Fence Slide Adjusting Screw
Asse mb ling the plane
For packing purposes the plane is fitted with two Short
FenceArms X
which although suitable for some applications
are normally substituted by the
"' Long Fence Arms W.
Replace each arm, positioning it half way through the
Body A and retighten its Set Screw T. Re-positioning w ill
only be necessary when an increased fence capacity is
required. Fit Sliding Section Bonto the arms and secure
in position by Knurled Screws R. To replace cutter I
(wh ich
must be sharpened before use see Pages 4 and 5 for
details), slacken Knurled Screws R and Wing
Nut 0 ,
withdraw Sliding Section B sufficient to permit the
replacement cutters to be inserted into the groove from
underneath and engage the cutter slot
with the pin on the
Adjusting Screw K. Lightly tighten Wing
Nut 0 and
adjust Sliding Section B so that its angular face supports
the cutter near its outer edge, tighten Knurled Screw R.
The Fence C,
which has an additional pair of holes which
permit greater depth of engagement when required, also
slides onto the arms and is secured in place by Knurled
Screws Y. It has a hardwood slide and an extra fine
Adjusting Screw Z, the adjustment being locked by the
Knurled Screw V. The body carries the handle, the
Cutter Adjusting
Nut J, the Depth Gauge G, the Slitting
Cutter Stop L and a Spur Qfor across the grain wo rk. The
sliding section also carries a Spur Q . When centre
beading at a distance from the edge, a Cam Steady S is
provided. The depth of cut is controlled by Depth Gauge
G.
3

Care in Use
The Body is of high quality grey iron and although robust,
care should be taken never to drop it. Make sure that
Fence Arm Set Screws T and Fence Knurled Screws Y
are t
ight before use, otherwise the plane may be subjected
to undue strain and inaccuracies in working may result.
The plane
will require a minimum of maintenance other
than a little
light machine oil on the screw threads.
When making adjustments, keep the plane over the bench
to avoid losing small screws and parts in the shavings.
Alittle paraffin
wax applied to the wood face of the Fence
will make for easier working . Thin shavings give more
accurate results than
thick ones and a better finish. The
Cutters must be kept in first class condition and keenly
sharp at all times.
Sharpening
The Cutters have been accurately ground to the correct 35°
bevel before leaving the factory.However, before the
plane can be used the
Cutters must be sharpened and
it is recommended that this is done on the ground bevel,
i.e. no sharpening bevel as
with bench planes. The user
will find them much easierto maintain if this rule isfollowed.
Use a good quality flat oilstone lightly smeared
with thin
machine oil. Sharpen the plough Cutters by placing the
ground bevel firmly on the surface of the oilstone moving it
forward and back in a figure of 8 movement in order to
distribute the oil and wear the stone evenly. A rounded
edge must be avoided
with the Cutter angle kept constant.
However, by using an Edge Tool Honer the
job is simpli-
fied since the Honer maintains the Cutter at the correct
angle.
4
Cutter being sharpened
Removing the wire edge

When a wire edge appears on the reverse side of the Cutter
and extends along the full
width of the cutting edge, the
Cutter should be
laid flat on the oilstone, bevel side up,
when a few strokes forward and back will remove it. Care
mustbe taken to ensure
that the Cutterlies flat on the stone
since any
lift will round the back and render it useless. The
Cutter
will now be sharp and ready for use.
Keep the cutter flat when
removing the
wire edge II
Grinding
Regrinding of the 35° Cutter bevel should not be attempted
by the amateur unless he has some
knowledge of the use of
a
grinding wheel. The Cutter must be kept cool and the
grinding wheel, if of natural grit ,should always be water
cooled. The latest type horizontal grinder using wheels of
artificial
grit ,requires aspecial coolant oil recommended by
the makers. Fast
moving artificial stones, used dry, will
almost certainly "draw" the temper of the steel and render
it useless. The Cutter should be moved from side to side
across the stone to
grind the fuII width of the bevel and to
keep the surface of the wheel true. Check regularly
that
the grinding angle is being maintained and that the cutting
edge is at right angles to the sides of the Cutter.
The Beading and Sash Cutters call for
two separate
sharpening operations.Firstly, sharpen the quirks as
with
the Plough Cutter. Secondly, the curve of the Cutter must
be sharpened using an oilstone slip
with an edge curve to
suit the sweep of the bead. Do not make a second bevel
and sharpen to maintain the shape and obviate
grinding .
Remove
the wire edge as before. When an oilstone slip is
not available, flour grade emery cloth wrapped around a
dowel and touched with a little oil is a good substitute or
alternativelya
hardwood rod dippedin emery powder and oil.
This also applies to the
Hollows, Rounds,Nosing,Fluting,
Reeding and Ovolo cutters.
The Spurs should be sharpened on the inside
only . Use a
fine saw file
holding the spur with flat nosed pliers resting
on
the edge of the bench . Final finishing can be carried
out on the oilstone.
Setting up the plane .
To set the cutter,slacken off the Cutter Bolt Wing Nut 0 and
operate the Cutter
Adjusting Nut J until the cutter edge
shows slightly forward of the body and sliding section
angular faces. Fully
tighten Nut 0 , check that the sliding
section is correctly supporting the cutter,then
tighten down
on the Sliding Section Knurled Screws R. To set the fence,
slacken the Fence Slide Bar Knurled Screws V and use a
rule to measure the required distance between the cutter
and fence. To
control depth of groove or other cut , set the
Depth Gauge G by slackening the Depth Gauge Locking
Screw GG, adjust the Depth Gauge
Nut H and place the
depth gauge at the required distance from the edge of
the
cutter. The Sliding Section Depth Gauge F may also be
fixed in position being held in place by Knurled Screw FF.
5

Housing
To cut a housing or dado (Le., a groove across the grain)
it is necessary to sever the top fibres of the timber before
the cutter comes into use. For this purpose Spurs Qare
provided in both Body A and Sliding Section B. Release
the small screw,
lift and rotate the spur so that it projects
below the skate, both on the sliding section and the body.
Set fence and depth gauge and start the cut by drawing
back the plane from the edge furthest
away from you, then
push the plane forward and operate normally.
A fine setting is desirable when cutting across the grain.
When a housing is required at a distance from the edge
beyond the limits
of the fence arm, it is necessary to
remove the fence and use a strip of
wood as a guide, either
tacked on or held
with G. Cramps. Once cutting is under
way the guide can be removed.
,.
Rebates and Fillisters
Use a cutter slightly wider than the required rebate and
slide the fence under the cutter to set the required
width of
cut. Set Depth Gauge G to required rebate depth and
place the Sliding Section B under the cutter so as to give a
bearing on the outer edge of the rebate.
6

Edge Beading
Select the beading cutter required and set the plane as for
rebating
but with the fence just masking the outer quirk of
the cutter. Set the Depth Gauge G so
that the top of the
bead is
slightly lower than the face of the board, this
permits the board to be cleaned off without damaging the
bead.
A
'Beading Ton gued Boards
Instead of using Fence C, use beading stop E, attaching it
to the Sliding Section B. This in effect provides a fence
that can work above the tongue. Depth Gauge G
controts the depth of the cut. Spurs are
not required. 'Cutting a bead on a tongued board
C entre Beading
Assemble as for ordinary beading, except that the distance
of the bead
from the edge will be set by Fence C. When
near the edge the cam steady may
not be required ; but at a
wider distance from the edge, the cam steady should be
used on the
forward arm to give extra bearing. With fence
fully extended centre beads can be cut up to 5 in. (127 mm)
from the edge.
7

Tonguing and Grooving
For tonguing , use the tonguing cutter. As the height of the
tongue is controlled by the adjustable stop, it is not neces-
sary to use the Depth Gauge G.
Two cutters are provided
so
that boards from iin. (9·5 mm) to 1 in. (26 mm)
can be
tongued in the centre. Set Fence C to give the
position of the
tongue . For grooving use the corresponding
plough cutter. Set the depth of the groove
with Depth
Gauge G and the distance from the centre
with Fence C.
The spurs are unnecessary in these
two operations.
8
Ploughing
Setting up for ploughing is exactlythe same asfor grooving .
Fence C gives the distance from the edge of the board ;
Depth Gauge G gives the depth of groove.Grooves Hin.
(21 mm) deep can be
cut without adjusting the cutter
o
Sash Work
Setting up for sash work is similar to setting up for tonguing
except that the sash cutter is used. The Depth stop
attached to the sash cutter is adjustable. Fence C is used.
It
will be found easier to cut the mouldings from the edge of
a board, cutting first one side and then the other, and
finally severing the
moulding with a saw, this obviates the
need for a holding cradle. Alternatively the
work can be
held in a sash cramp secured in the bench vice as seen in
the photograph.