
not changed. The upgrade kit does not hold any coins in escrow, so the metal escrow
flaps connected to the bucket solenoids are removed.
FLAP REMOVAL INSTRUCTIONS
There are three black rods on the bucket assembly. Remove the e-clip on either side of the
assembly from each of the two rods that have e-clips on the outside of the assembly. Push
the rods in the direction of the remaining e-clip; the springs and spacers will fall out. The
two shafts, springs, and spacers are no longer needed.
In order to remove the plunger arms and flap assemblies you need to temporarily remove
the lower rear black shaft. Remove one of the e-clips (inside the assembly) and slide the
black rod in the direction of the e-clip that was not removed. The flap/plunger arms will fall
out. Slide the rod back into place and secure the e-clip. The white diverting flaps should be
positioned so they are securely locked in position. The position, vertical or sixty degrees, is
not important. The modification is complete.
12.The entire wiring harness in the cabinet will be replaced with new harnesses included in
the kit. The following steps are the easiest method of removing the original harness.
13.Using a pair of cutters cut the tie straps that secure the empty bulb harness to the front
door of the changer. Next cut the three tie straps on the rear mid-level bundle and one
tie strap on the lower bundle of harnessing.
14.Unhook the small harness that originally connected to the transport. This six-inch
harness may have all ready been removed with the transport. The fifteen-position
connector that mates to this harness must be removed from its bracket. The easiest
method is to depress the tabs on the top then bottom of the connector with a small
straight blade screwdriver while pushing the connector towards the rear of the cabinet.
15.Unhook the twelve-inch adapter harness that originally connected to the stacker
assembly. This harness may have already been removed when the stacker was
removed.
16.Unhook the main cabinet AC wiring harness. It connects to the power input box at the
upper left hand side of the cabinet. The connector is a three-position plug with a black,
white, and green wire.
17.Disconnect the two terminals from the empty bulb on the front door of the changer;
white/blue and black wires. This harness should be fed to the lower area of the cabinet.
18.Push the large main bundle of harnesses from the bottom of the changer up to the mid
section of the cabinet. The harness will be fed through the holes at the left and right
rear of the changer.
19.At this point the entire wiring harnesses is removed from the changer.
REASSEMBLY
20.Mount the new control board in the bottom compartment of the changer. The placement
is not critical but should be positioned near the bottom so it is easy to view the meter.
If the changer will be mounted to a wall it may be best to position the board higher so
the two rear cabinet mounting holes are exposed. The new board is mounted using the
four holes in the control board case. The easiest way to drill the holes is to mark the
holes on the back of the changer. Drill the holes from the rear and clean the burrs from
the interior area. Insert the four flat headed bolts from the rear. Secure the new bolts
using the first set of four 11/32” nuts supplied. Next mount the board by securing it to
the four bolt studs and tightening the second set of 11/32” nuts supplied. The four bolts
and eight nuts are included in the parts kit.
21.Connect the main power harness to header P2 on the control board. Run the harness up
the left hand side of the cabinet and connect it to the power input box.