Royal Enfield Bullet RES 500 User manual

BULLET
by Pete Snidal

This Manual is Also Available on CD ROM
Ask your local Royal Enfielddealer or visit:
http://www.webhome.idirect.com/-snidey/manual/
Copyright02002 by Pete Snidal. All Rights Reserved
No portionof this manualmay be reproducedin any form withoutpermission.
unless the reproductionis for the sole use of the purchaser.
And Rnally, a brief word from our solicitor:The author accepts NO responsibility,
expressed or implied. for any andlor all damages to persons or property as a
result of followingany of the instructions laid out in this manual.
I I
The Enfield BULLET MANUAL by Pete Snidal O 2002

INDEX
Chapter 6 . EngineWork
Engine ExplodedView (also see Appendix) ..- 59
The Cork Quill Seal ................... ..
59
Remove and Replacingthe Timing Cover - 60
. .
The TlmlngGears ... - ............... ........... 64
. . . .
Checkingand SettinglgnltlonTlmlng ........................ -
65
. .
Decldlngon Top End Work . - ....... 72
...
RemovingCylinderHead ...................................... ....... . 75
ReplacingCylinder Head ....- 80
.
RemovingCylinder Barrel 83
ReplacingCylinder Barrel - . 89
. .
Spllttlngthe Crankcase 9I
Chapter 7 . Suspension
Operation of The Front Suspension - . 95
The Casquette/ForkCrown/Steering Head .- .. 96
The Stanchion/Maintube-Slider Assemblies 98
The Rear Suspension - -- ......... . -- 10I
Chapter 8 -The Primary Drive
Removingthe Clutch - ...... I03
.......
Replacingthe Clutch - ............ .. I05
ExplodedView - the 350 Clutch
.. .- 105
Removingthe Alternator Rotor .......... . 106
Replacingthe Alternator Rotor - .... - I07
The ES Starter DriveSystem ......................... I07
Chapter 9 . GearboxWork
ExplodedView of Gearbox I08
AdjustingThe Neutral Finder . I09
Removingand ReplacingCountershaft Sprocket - ... . 109
RemovingThe Gearbox Covers I I0
CompleteStrip I 13
. .
Examlnatlonof Gearbox Parts
.. ....... .. .. 1 1 4
Gearbox Reassembly .. .... - I I5
CorrectingGear ChangingProblems - - 1 16
Solving KickstarterProblems . 123
......
Conversion Back to Right Foot Gearshift 124
The 5 Speed Gearbox - Overview,Trouble Shooting, Dismantling, Assembly Chapter
9 Appendix
IV
The Enfield BULLET MANUAL by PeteSnidal Q 2002

Chapter I 0 -TheCarburetors
The VM24 Mikcarb - 350cc models I32
The VM28 Mikcarb - 500cc models 133
The Bing Carbureto - - - 134
The Amal Monoblo 135
The Amal Concentric Carbureto 136
Carburetor Adjustment 137
Chapter I l - ElectricalWork
ElectricalTroubleshooting
The US/Canada Models
(
The US Models (Post Mid-99) - Wiring Diagram 143
The Home (Indian) Models - Wiring Diagram
1 45
. .
The UKModels (Pre ES) - Wlrlng Diagram 146
Export ElectricStart Models - Wiring Diagram 146
Connections - Colours and Terminals 153
Chapter 1 2 - Performance
.. .
PerformanceMod~f~catlons I60
Chapter 13 - CleanAirAdditions
The Pulse Air System
1 65
Crankcase Breather Condenser Tank
1 67
APPENDIX
EngineTighteningTorques 1 70
Chassis TighteningTorque 17
1
Service Limits and Clearances 172
Inch/Metric Conversion Table I73
Engine ExplodedView - - I77
What Year is My Bullet
Troubleshooting
.........
The Enfield BULLETMANUAL by Pete Snidal O 2002
v

FORWARD
HOWTHIS MANUAL CAMETO BE
'There are twothings I'vebeen for most of my 6 1 years onthis planet. One is awanna-be technical writer; the
other a Royal Enfield Bullet fan. Other motorcycles, too, butthe first motorcycle Iwas able toget my hands on
(that could be made to run) was an ex-WD 350 Royal Enfield Bullet - the CanadiadBritishArmy bike from WWII.
By that time, I had already learned that the second thing you have to have, after you acquire just about any piece
of machineryis agood manual. Unfortunately, I couldn't find any manual for my "new" motorcycle. The situation
was complicated somewhat by the fact that most of
it came in a couple of cardboard boxes - itwas in a state of
"some assembly required."
The only book(s) I could find on the subject were one afficionado manual, which assumed awidespread and
general knowledge of motorcycles, and was a sort of pocket-sizecoffee-table magazine, called
Book Of The
Royal Enfield.
Itoffered up lots of esoteric information, such as what years the "famous pre-war EnfieldV-Twins"
were produced, butvery few specifics on my mundane little workhorse 350. The only other book I could find
that even mentioned Royal Enfields was the excellent, but notparticularly detailed due to its universal coverage,
the Nicholson Brothers'
Modern Motorcycling, an early '50's edition.
This was only the first of many Royal Enfieldsthat seemed to come myway as ayoungenthusiast inVancouver,
BC, Canada in the '50's. Although there was only one Enfielddealer inVancouver ever, and him for only part of
one year, there were afew pre-"unit" Bullets
- models G and12 - and a half-dozen of the post-'53 swingarm
frame "unit" models, like the Indian-made 1956-2003350/500 bullets of today.
Although I owned a half-dozen Bulletsin The Day, I never did find a decent service manual. Most manufacturers
of British Motorcyclesin the '50's seemed toassume a high degree of mechanical ability onthe part of any owners,
dealers, ortheir mechanics. The only even modestly comprehensive Shop Manuals
I ever ranacross were for
A]S/Matchless Singles (AMC) and for the Triumph Twins. These were, don'tforget, the days before Clymer,
Haynes, et al., and the only suppliers of manuals of any kindwere the factories themselves. The Royal Enfield
manualwas atoolbox-sized pamphlet,which contained afew of the most necessary things to know, if you could
read between the lines, and had enough basic mechanical know-how to be able to understandthem.
It was
enough, though, and I worked myway through repair and
restoration of a number of "fixer-uppers," mostly but not
confined to Bullets, over the nextfew years.
I sold "Ralph," my last running Bullet
- a 1957 MX350
"Moto Cross Bullet," which I had painstakinglyrestored in 196
afew years later while in college. Although afew years aftel
that, I got back into motorcycling - mostly dirt competition
for some time, finally back into street riding, mostly on
Triumph twins
- I never ran across another Bullet. Finally,
about 1975,l began to hear rumours that they had been
transplantedto India, and had been being made there, on
Your Author and Ralph, 1962
original Redditchtooling, since the late '50's. This got me
The Enfield BULLET MANUAL by Pete Snidal O 2002
VI

FORWARD
interested, and by the time the internet started to come alive, in the late '801s,I was in more orless constant
contact with many Bulletowners all over the world, with whom Ifound myself exchanging reams of information
about myfirst motorcycle love.
One of the things Ifound was that there was
still no really satisfactory manual, especially for beginners - and
there were plenty of people buyingnew Bullets, primarily for the nostalgiavalue. Nostalgiaover atime of simpler
motorcycles, that looked and sounded like motorcycles, and over a misspent youth that didn't spend enough
time inAuto Shop, and too much time in Bookkeepingclasses, gymnasiums, Physics and Chem labs, and the like.
And some of those with this kind of youth nowwanted to master the black (fingered) arts of motorcycle
mechanics,with particular interest tomaintainingtheir new instant collector pieces.
After atime,
I began totoy with the idea of writing acomprehensivemanual, a sort of Idiot's Guide To Volkswagen
Repair, somethingthat would enablethe complete newbietoget agrip on the esotericsof maintaining his RE Bullet,
yet hold all the information neededfor the experienced mechanic to do any and everythingnecessary, from basic
tune-up tocomplete overhaul. This is especially important, notonly because of the unique demographictowhich
these machines appeal, but also since the few Dealers are so thin on the ground. Even for those notcompletely
desirousof becoming late-in-age mechanics, the appeal of beingable to avoid trips of hundreds of miles to have
a 15 minute procedure done onyour motorcycle seems to me unbeatable.
Hence this manual. Itis the product of many hundredsof hours of dedicatedwork on my part, havingtaken a
lotof my spare time in the last couple of years. My bibliography/credits must include many sources, beginning
with the two books mentioned above, many years of Bulletwork of all kinds, conversation with owners face to
face, and especially, via the internet, from all over the world, the original Redditch manuals, such
as they were
(fortunately,
I still have mine), the REM manual, Gopi and friends with their very generous tripod.com manual
project
(www.workshopmanuol.tripod.com), and particularly to afew Enfield Bullet professionals. I name one of
the partnersofthe Canadian Enfield Dealer,Terry Smith, Guru Nandan, of Bulletechin India(www.bulletech.com)
and Dan Holmesof DRS Cycle, in Goshen, Indiana, all of whom have beenvery helpfulconsultantsin this project.
(Dan's Very Useful Enfield
FAQ, from his DRS Cycle website, dncvcle.safeshopper.com) Thank you also to my "Beta
Testers," who provided the necessary provingground for me toevaluatethe usefulnessof various sections of
the manual.
This manual
is also available on CD. If you find yourself in possession of a bootlegcopy, and you feel that the
poor slob who spent so much of his time makingyour life easier
is worth a contribution, please remit a cheque
inthe currency of your country, inthe amount of your choosing, to:
Thank you.
I have faith that I'll be repaid by the majority of Bulleteers, honest fun-lovers that they are. Peace be with you!
"We'reAll InThis Together1'
Pete Snidal, [email protected]
VII
The Enfield BULLET MANUAL by Pete Snidal @ 2002

CHAPTER I - FOUR STROKE ENGINE BASICS
CHAPTER I - FOURSTROKE ENGINE BASICS
The RelatedBottom End BitsThe Enfield Bullet engine uses the four stroke design. Each full up ordown movement
of the piston within the cylinder has a specific function, and is referred to as a "stroke." The piston is connected
to the crankshaft flywheels by the connecting rod, and up-and-down movement is translated into rotary movement
of the central crankpins by the eccentric mountingof the rodjournal at the extremity of the flywheels.
The Power Stroke
is the reason for the whole thing.
The full four strokes are as follows:
Intake: Intakevalve is open, piston is at top of cylinder at the
beginningof this stroke. Piston
is pulled downwards by momentum
of flywheel, drawingin amixtureof fuel and air through the carburetor.
Compression: Intakevalve has closed at bottomof intakestroke,
flywheel momentumforces piston totop of cylinder, compressing
the gas mixture drawn in by intake stroke.
Power: As piston reaches the top of the cylinder, the spark plug
ignites the mixture, resultant rapid burning of fuel mix creates
expansion pressurewhich imparts force to flywheel and drivetrain,
propellingthe machine and "recharging"flywheel momentum.
Exhaust: at bottom of stroke, exhaustvalve opens, releasing
pressure in cylinder/combustion chamber, and flywheel momentum
carries once again into the intakestroke.
I Piston. 6 ConnectingRod. 1 5- 16 Flywheels,
Rod journal, 8 Plain Big End Bush (Floating),
The essence of motorcycle tuning involves ensuringthat these
9 Small End (wrist pin) Bush ,17-23 Crankpins.
operations occur with the correct timing, and that the mechanical
19 Crankshaft(primary drive) sprocket considerations - mechanical, thermal, and volumetric efficiency, are met.
& LLGO %&/:
HorsepowerandTorque
Differentengine designs result in different power outputs, power beingdefined as the ability to do work in a
given time. Work
is defined as force-distance product. So the faster an object is moved, the greater the distance,
orthe greater the force, the more power
is required. 'The power potential of the Enfield Bullet engine is matched
tothe needs of the average rider in average use. The engine is designedto produce the required range of power
e.&-9
over a comparatively wide range of rpm - engine speed, o&%%utlons per minute. The idle. or"tick-over"
speed of the Bullet engine is about
700- 1000 rpm. The maximumrpm is about 5000 - the engine can be "rewed"
higherthan that, but at acost in powerdevelopment and reliability.
Torque is rawtwisting ability, and is measured in foot-pounds, orkilogram-meters. If afoot-long lever mounted
radially on a rotatable shaft exerts a tangentialforce on its outer end of I pound, we say
it is developing a
foot-pound (ft-lb) of torque. If the shaft is continually rotating, as in the case of an engine, the force must be
The Enfield BULLET MANUAL by Pete Snidal O 2002
I

CHAPTER I - FOUR STROKE ENGINE BASICS
measured with some sort of brake, which applies counter-torque tothe shaft and measuresthe force required.
This is the principle of the Prony Brake, a basic torque/horsepower measuringdevice, which gives HP readings
as Brake Horsepower. The torque readings of the Prony Brake, combined with readings of rpm, to introduce
the time factor, result in this BHP reading.
A Horsepower is defined as 550 ft-lb/sec.
What all this means tothe rider of a
motorcycle
is that the engine may be
I I I I I
expected to producevarious forces with
30
1
I
I I
various throttle readings at various rpms.
I I
There will be an ideal rprn for maximum
20
power development - at full throttle, and
a muchwider range of rpmfor less
15
power at lower throttle readings. This is
10
best demonstrated with a power graph.
This is not meanttorepresentany specific
5
engine, but is an off- the-cuff typical chart.
0
Notethe sudden drop of of HP at the o 5 10 15 20 25 30 35 40 45 50 55
end of its range, the relatively wider
RPM x 100
range of peaktorque over peak HP, and
the lower occurance of the torque peak
A Typical HP/Torque Chart (--- ~orse~ower) (- ~or~ue)
than that of HP. The torque/hp reading
shown would all have been read at the same throttle opening
- generallyfull open when an engine is tested on a
brake ordynamometer
- the throttle is openedfully, and measured counter-torque is applied to holdthe engine at
given rpms in steps and the readings recorded to make the chart. Ofcourse, in actual general use, the motorcyclist
seldom, if ever, uses full throttle, butthe shape, placement, and duration of the curves would be similar.
PERFORMANCE BOOSTING
Engine modifications can be madetoboost performance change the power and torque curves. A highly-tuned
racingengine would have a higher HP peak, over a shorter range, higher up the rprn band. Torque would likely
suffer, and the torque band would be shorter and also higher up the rprn range. Thus, the pricefor "more
power" is measurednot only indollars, but also in tractability and ease of operation
- the engine must be operated
within a narrower rprn "power band," and at higher rprn in all cases, resultingin lower reliability. Performance
modifications are always atrade-off, in cost, noise, reliability,and ease of riding.
So the first thing the new Bullet rider should consider is that his mount has been designed to providethe best
all-around power and reliability for most riders, and that seeking more power will result in less tractability, and
less reliability. Speed tuning
is, however, dealt with at the end of this manual in Chapter 12.
2
The Enfield BULLET MANUAL by Pete Snidal O 2002

CHAPTER 2 - OPERATION OF THE MOTORCYCLE
CHAPTER 2 - OPERATION OFTHE MOTORCYCLE
Warning: There is Much Moreto RidingThan JustOperation
The following is atreatisewhich is designed to help the new owner understandthe principlesof operation of the
motorcycle. Although this will be enough actually to ridethe machine,
it is strongly recommended that the new
rider take advantage of a Motorcycle TrainingProgrammeof some sort. Statistics prove beyond any reasonable
doubt that there
is avery significant safety advantageto learningto ride a motorcycle from a professionaltrainer
- even more so than with automobiles.There is much more tostayingalive in traffic on a motorcycle than just
beingable to operate the machine. Most insurancecompanies reflect this reality by offering premium incentives
totake such courses, and it
is avery good idea in any event. There are many considerations involved in operating
a motorcycleonthe streets which go beyondthe scope of ashop manual such as this, butwhich are nonetheless
extremely importanttoyour personalsafety. Self-taught motorcycle operation
is NOTrecommended! Failureto
heed this warning can get you seriously hurt orworse. Motorcycle training courses are the best investment the
new rider can make. Consider the following information advice for off-road riding only.
STARTING DRILL
Single cylinderCstrokemotorcycles,although notreallydifficult tostart, requirethat their owners develop afamiliarity
with the process. A reviewof the four strokes onthe engine, laid outinchapter I,will be abighelptounderstanding.
Breakingthe Clutch Free
If the machine has been sittingfor atime, it may be that, once you've got itstarted, you will have trouble engaging
first gear without some grindingdue tothe clutch notbreakingentirely free on disengagement. This can be made
easier by breakingthe clutch free before starting, by haulingin the clutch lever and givingthe kickstarter afew
strokes before attemptingto start.
Actual Starting
If the piston is slowly brought as far up a compression stroke as operation of the kickstarter will allow, you will
then find that you can stand onthe pedal, and even bounceyour weight on it, and in most cases
it won't continue
to turn overthe motor. Obviously, this is notthe best place for the piston to be when you attempt a kickstart.
Onthe other hand, if the piston
is at the beginningof a powerstroke, and the would-be rider, first havingtaken
up all the slack in the kickstarter mechanism, then swings his full weight into a good, long, slow transfer, the
crankshaft/flywheel assembly will draw the piston all the way down in a"blank" power stroke, roll over the bottom,
at which point the exhaustvalve will open, allowingunimpededpiston movement back up the cylinder, whereupon
the exhaustvalve will close, butthe intake valve will open, and the piston will once again travel down-cylinder
relatively unimpeded, drawing in in air/fuel mixture as
it does. Atthe bottom of this intake stroke, the intake
valve will close, and the freshly-inducted mixturewill be compressed as the piston travels once more upthe
cylinder, aided by the flywheel momentum, which has by now built up considerably, and the engine will likelyfire
on the ensuing power stroke
- if noton the first one, onthe next one, 2 revolutions later, towhich will arrive
onflywheel momentumalone.
The Enfield BULLET MANUAL by PeteSnidal O 2002
3

CHAPTER 2 - OPERATION OF THE MOTORCYCLE
That, in a nutshell, is the "trick" to starting a big single, which is nothinglikethe drill for a multi-cylinder engine,
with which you just swing your weight onthe kickstarter, payingno attention toengine position. The only
remainingquestion is howtoget the pistontothe proper position. Here's how:
I. Apply pressure tothe kickstarter until it stops against the resistance of a compression stroke.
2. Usingthe decompression lever, apply just an inchortwo more movement tothe kickstart lever, listeningas
you do for the "wheeze" of air into the exhaust pipe from the decompressor valve.
(Decompressor cable broken?No problem; just depress the top of the valvestem directly with your thumb
- it may be
hot
if the bike's been runninglately)
3. Once the piston has been eased over the top of the compression stroke,you're ready to start. Turn onthefuel
valve, apply the choke lever, (or tickle the carburetor untilfuel drips
if equipped with an Amal,) turn onthe ignition,
and with the slack taken up in the kickstarter mechanism, apply a long, deliberate weight transfer tothe lever.
Throttle opening: although this will vary from machineto machine, there will be a definite "best" placefor the
throttle to be duringkickstarting,and itimportantto develop the skill necessary to maintain this precise setting
as your body movesup and down duringthe weight transfer. Often, the bestthrottle setting
is just a bit above
idle
- about I/8"/3mm of cable travel. In some cases, less will be required, in some a bit more. Experiment
and find the best settingfor your machine.
That's all there usually
is tokickstarting a big single. Done properly, it can be done without takingyourself off
the seat
- often tothe amazement of the non-cognoscenti.
Flooded Starting
Sometimes, in cases of difficult starting, the machine will "flood" - induct an excess of fuel without starting.
Once you have rolled itover 4 or
5 times without success, it is often usefulto assume that it has nowflooded.
This condition requiresa change in throttle setting. Firstde-applythe choke, and then rollon3/4 throttle.
Maintainingthis setting as you rollthrough the weight transfer, attempt to start it in this way for 4 or
5 kicks.
This will usually serve to clear it out, and get itstarted. WARNING: be ready to roll off that 3/4 throttle as
soon as
it catches! 3/4 is plenty of throttle todamage an unloaded engine!
One lasttime: Sometimes, if, after this procedure,if the machine still doesn't start, a kick ortwo with NOthrottle
may produce a littlefiring. If so, do this afew time, and then resumewith the small throttle opening. If not, it's
time for one of the next two possibilities: See Troubleshooting or Push-Startingon page 8. However, let us
assume it's running, and it's time to move off:
LEARNINGTO OPERATETHE MACHINE
Followingis atreatise on learningtooperate the machine itself. The experienced owner will want toskip this
next part. Itis hoped that this treatment of the basics of ridingwill provetobe of helptothe first-time owner
-
but DON'Tforget that ridingcourse!
4
The Enfield BULLETMANUAL by Pete Snidal O 2002

CHAPTER 2 - OPERATION OF THE MOTORCYCLE
LESSON I: MOVING OFFAND COMINGTOA HALT
Once the machine is started, and has had a minute ortwotowarm up, it may be ridden by engagingfirst gear and
movingoff. To engage first gear, itwill be necessaryfirst to disengage the clutch by pullinginthe clutch lever.
Then apply upward pressureto the gearshift lever to engage first gear. (Downward Pressure in
LH shifl models)
Increasethe throttle rpmslightly as you checkthe roadway ahead of you (and to your rear
if you'll be pullingout
into possible trafic), and slowly releasethe clutch lever until you feel the machine just begin to move. Atthis point,
"freeze" your clutch leverhand untilthe machine picks up speed (you may increase the engine rpm at this pointas well)
and once the speed has pickedup about as far as
it will, slowly continuethe release of the lever until it is fully out.
The Stop Reflex
This is a most important thingto learn. Inorder to stop the motorcycle, you must disengage the clutch and apply
the brake(s). The slow-speed reflex should consist merely of simultaneouslywindingoff the throttle, pullingin the
clutch lever, and applyingthe rear brake, beingready tosupport the machinewith the non-brake legas itcomes
to a halt. You should practicethe coordination of these three movementsbefore even startingthe bike, and once
you're actually riding around in I
st gear, practicethem until they become almost second nature. It's nofun finding
yourself going into a pond, orafence, orthe side of a barn ortree and havingto intellectualizeyour way through
the moves required to stop
- itmust be second nature before you start.
Donot neglect use of the front brake. Since, at any speed, the front brake does
75% of your stopping, you want
to use itfrom the beginning. But, if you are turning, oronsoft orslippery ground, locking up the front wheel will
almost certainly result inafall. So don't use it unless you're upright, going straight, and the ground offers good
traction. However, very early in your ridingcareer, you want always to be thinking Front Brake. Never depend on
the rear brake tostop you
- its main use is to keep the machine straightwhile the front brake does the stopping.
- Atlow speeds, however, the rear brake is usually enough.
Throttle Control
Oneof the greatestdifficultiesto the new rider is throttle control. Havingthe throttle as one of the things you hold
onto can make for interestingsituations. You want, from the beginning,to practice holdingyour right wrist rigid as
you turn the handlebars, rotatingthe throttle only when you want to increase enginehehide speed. Onceyou get
movingwith the clutchengaged, you should practicegradual increases and decreases in throttle opening
- speeding
up a bit, and then slowingdown. Dothis a number of times, as well as stopping and starting out, until you are
comfortable with it. This would be agood time to end your first session with motorcycle operation. You mighttry
maneuveringaround abit
- makingslow turns and such - as well. And most importantly,developingThe Stop Reflex
For your next session, you may want totry going a little faster, which will require changingup.
LESSON 2: UPSHIFTING
Foryour second session, first review toyourself what you've learned in the first session. Start out by practicing
starting out and stoppingfor awhile, and then move into the next step: changingup.
Once you've run out of rpm infirst gear, to change to second, you'll want to do three things at once, followed
by three more. First,you'll want simultaneouslyto disengage the clutch by pullingin the lever, back off the throttle
The Enfield BULLETMANUAL by Pete Snidal O 2002
5

CHAPTER 2 - OPERATION OF THE MOTORCYCLE
tofull closed, and press the gear leverfirmly downwards (or pull it upwards, dependingon whether it's LH or RH ship)
to engage secondgear. Then, you'll want to do the second three things: apply throttle, engage the clutch by releasing
the lever, and release the pressureonthe gear lever. The neophytemay want to practicethe movementswhile sitting
down readingthis; right hand
twist out/left hand clasp, rightfoot down (or lefi up, dependingon model), followed by
righthand
twist idlefthand release/right foot up. A little practiceincoordinatingthesetwo sets of three movements
off the bike
- while ridingthe bus to work, sittingwatching TV, orat any time, will workwonders later "onthejob."
Itwill also help to think about exactly what you're doing. The reasonfor the throttle work
is actually to reduce
the engine rpmtothat necessary for the next higher gear at the roadspeedatwhich you're changinggear. The
reasonforthe clutch action
is merely to smoothen out any kinks in the operation - if the coordination of rpm
change with gear change
is done perfectly, the clutch isn'tactually even necessary. And of course the footwork
is tocause the ratchetgear change mechanism to move actual gears in the gearbox to provide a different ratio.
(The gearchange mechanism "ratchets" to change gears only one at a time
- it won't go directly from 1st to 3rdor 4th,
for instance, with only one poke - although it willgo throughneutralfrom 1st to 2nd, or back from 2nd to 1st.)
The Ratchet Shift
Remember,the ratchet mechanism in the gearbox stops the linkage at the nextgear each time you change - you
don't have to "feel"your way tothe nextgear. Operate the lever positively,and maintain pressure at the "stop"
as you let out the clutch. If you experience any difficulty in changinggear in this way, your gearbox may need
adjustment.This
is dealt with in detail ina later chapter.
LESSON 3: DOWNSHIFTING
Downshiftingis similar to upshifting, with the difference beingthat, rather than the engine rpmdecreasingwith
engagementof the nextgear,
it will have to increase, since a lowergear is beingengaged. This means that, as the
gear is engaged with an upward movement of the foot inthefirst set of actions, the throttle must be "blipped," and
inthe second set of actions, throttle must be applied a little sooner relative to clutch engagement. This may be
practicedwith changesfrom 2nd backtofirst, although itwill be found that changes from 3rd to2nd will be easier
to make smoothly, since the ratios are closer. Ridingwith, orjust watching, an experienced rider goingthrough
the gears will be invaluablein helpingyou develop the "feel" for good gear changing. The above considerations
will be found toapply in all changes, up and down, between all gear combinations.
Trouble Changing Gears
The Enfieldgearbox is unique in its ratchet mechanism, which is adjustable, and could be outof adjustment, even
when supplied newfrom thefactory. If the new riderfinds s/he just can't "getthe hangof it," itmay proveworthwhile
to have an experienced ridergive itatry, since referral tothe chapter ongearbox adjustment may prove necessary.
Coming to a Halt
Inan automobile, it is not regular practicetochange downfrom top gear to 3rd and 2nd before comingto a stop
and changingtoneutralforthe wait at the stoplight orwherever.With most motorcycles,the rider mustdo exactly
this
- as the roadspeedlowers, the rider changes down to 3rd gear, then 2nd, then slips it into neutral as s/he
coast to the final stop. For some reason, the designers at Royal Enfield, many years ago, decided to add atruly
uniquefeature
- the Neutral Finder. This allows the rider to change directly from any of the top three gears
6
The Enfield BULLET MANUAL by Pete Snidal O 2002

CHAPTER 2 - OPERATION OF THE MOTORCYCLE
directly to neutral as the machine is brought to a halt (nb: while still moving, however slightly - it will not work well
once movement has ceased.) This is the reasonfor the "extra" lever onthe Enfieldgearbox. Forthose not inclined
togo through downshifting as they slow to a stop, the clutch may be disengaged, and pressingthe neutral finder
will bringthe gearbox directly to neutral, at which pointthe clutch lever may be released, and will not be
required again until the time comes to engage first gear to move off once again.
Stay Off'rhat Clutch Lever!
In any event, the clutch lever should not be used when the machine is standingstill for any period of time - the
gearbox should be in neutral and the lever released. The release mechanism is simply not designed for sitting at a
standstill ingear, and will soongive trouble if this practiceis followed. Getto neutral, whether by usingthe neutral
finder, orby downshiftingdown tosecond, and then slippingitthe "half notch" further to neutral, and releasethe
clutch leverwhen comingto astop. (nb:
it is normalto find great dificulty inselectingneutralfiom a gear eg. second
when the machine
is no longer moving, but the engine is running. Best to do it while still moving, even slightly.)
IMPORTANT SAFETY NOTE: 'The experiencedstreet rider, at this point, if stopped at a traffic lightorstop sign,
will be checkinghis mirrorconstantly, on the alertfor someone approachingfrom the rearwho doesn't see him, and
is benton bending. If this happens, it is a simple matter to pull in the clutch, pull/push it into first, and get out of
there!
- The danger passes once the first auto ortruck stops behindyou. Until then, have your escape planned and
be ready! There are few seasoned motorcyclistswho don't know of someonewho's been killedthis way! Motorcycles
are notonly invisible to many motorists; they seem to render stop lights and stop signs invisible as well!
Use of the Brakes
Finally, aword on braking. The motorcycle differs from the auto in that differential control of braking is another
skill which must be developed. Since about
75% of the brakingforce is exerted by the front wheel brake, it is
important tolearn to use this effectively. However, since the steeringand stability can be adversely affected by
misuse of this brake, some learningmust be done. The front brake should not be applied in a turning situation, nor
in conditions of poor traction
- such as the gravel so oftenfound inthe region of stop signs onto major road-
ways. The rear brakeshould always be applied in conjunction with the front one
- it tends to keep things going
straight, as well as supplementingthe brakingof the front. Engine compressionis also an effective part of slowing
downwith a motorcycle, and changingdown a gear as you begin to apply brakes is a common practice.
It is a
good idea to be as sensitive as possibleto how your brakeswork, since when on two wheels, locking up a
wheel, especially the front one, can have disastrous results compared tothose resultingfrom the same action in
an automotive situation. Whenyour front wheel locks, your steeringdisappears
- always be ready toget off that
front brake!
IMPORTANT!
It is important always toassess the conditionof the roadwayimmediately as you apply brakes. If you encountergravel,
sand, orother looseness of surfacewiththefront brakeapplied heavily,youwill experience injury and embarrassment!
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CHAPTER 2 - OPERATION OF THE MOTORCYCLE
PUTTINGTHE MACHINEAWAY
Whenyou have finished ridingyour Bullet for the day, attention should be paid to proper storage. Itshould be
kept in asafe, secure place, out of the weather
- beingrained onwill bringabout consequenceswith water in
the fuel, carburetor, electricsystem, and also make the seat wet. The machineshould, at thevery least, be
under acover of some kind.
You should also bevery concerned with security. Motorcycles are avery concentrated resource
- little space or
weight comparedtovalue. They are worth more in pieces than whole, and can be renderedso in little time by
experienced thieves. 'They can be carried away easily to anearby van or utility, or even stuffed in the trunk of a
car, whether the wheels are locked or not. Atvery least, you need to have your machine securely lockedto
somethingimmovable, such as atree or lamppost, although this will just limit the possible thieves to those with
strong boltcutters.When stoppingfor ameal orother refreshment, it is highly advisable to park your machine
where itmay be observed through awindow, locked
as well as you can for those inevitable trips tothewashroom.
You should consider an alarm, but remember that
it is only useful if someone within hearing is preparedto
respond if it's tripped. This writer has usually kept his machines in alocked building, chained to asupport post
with avery large chain, and the building
is buggedtosilent alarm to my home. And I live in avery quiet part of
the country, crime-wise. Summary: be as careful as you can. It's a real heart-breakerto loseyour motorcycle
investment in the space of afew minutes.
TROUBLE SHOOTING - STARTING
Generally, if no success is attained after havinggone throughthe flooded startingdrills, it'stime todo some
trouble shooting. This will be describedbelow. One last alternative
is to attempt apush start.
Push Starting
The last resort for the otherwise hopeless is push starting - useful in cases of bad flooding, otherwise extremely
difficultstarting, or broken or missingkickstart lever/mechanism. Here'sthe drill for it:
First, the safety considerations.
First, be certain thatyou have the strength and balance to support the machine
while runningalongside
it while pushing, and tostep onto the leftfootrest and swingyourself onto the seat
while the machine is moving. If not, do not attempt the following, as you'll just end up droppingthe bike, and
hurting
it oryourself in the process.
I. Put the machine in 2nd gear. Standingon the left side, pull it backwards until the piston on compression stops
movementof the bike.
2. Turn on the fuel tap and apply choke ortickle carb as applicable - nb if flooded, disregard the choke.
3. Pull in the clutch lever, and pullthe motorcyclebackwards afoot or so (the length of one of your feet) tofree
the clutch
- you'llfeel itfree up. Then turn on the ignition.
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CHAPTER 2 - TROUBLESHOOTING
4. Alone, orwith the help of afriend, preferably downhill, beginto push the machine until you get it up to about
the fastest speed you think you'll be able to maintainfor I0or 15 yarddmetres. When you're at that speed,
applyingno throttle, release the clutch lever, continuing to push as hard as you can. (Note to middle-aged
owners: monitor your heartbeat as you do this
- gettingyour bike runningis of no value if it stops your heart!)
Donotapply any throttle until the machine
is up tospeed.
"Bump" starting
- in cases of poortraction, applyingsome weight to the rear wheel at the moment of clutch
engagement may be necessary. For this reason,
it is common amongthose in the knowto do a little leap
which momentarily puts them side-saddleonthe seat, and which applies their weight tothe wheel as necessary
fortraction. There are afew complicationstothis move
- one of which is to leanthe bike slightly towards
you as you jump towards it. (I've never seen anyone go over backwards, but I'dimagine
it can be done!)
Recommended: try without the "bump" unless
it becomes absolutely necessary. Once the engine begins to
turn, itwill be helpfultoget back onto the ground and continue pushing.
5. The motor should now be turning over at afairly good pace. Now, slowly applyjust a little throttle, being
careful notto exceed
1 /8 orso. Throttle applicationwill tend toslow the machine down, by making it harder
to push. If itdoesn't begintofire immediately,roll the throttle off until you get up totop speed again, and
then apply a small amount of throttle once more. This will eventuallyget ittofire. If not on the first attempt,
stop, take a rest, and try again.
6. If itdoesn't fire after this, begintrouble shooting as described below. If it does, continue to run alongside the
machine, applyingjust enough throttle to keep
it running, and, usinga hopping movement, step up onto the
leftfootpeg. with your left foot. Then swingyour right legover the seat
- the motorcycle will by now be
movingfast enough to have attained a surprisingamount of stability
- onto the right footpeg, and pull inthe
clutch tochange tofirst gear to move off. In cases of enough downhill slope, you'll likelyfind that you can
just leave
it in second and ride off. The more timid may elect just to pull in the clutch while continuing to run
alongside, butwithout any rear brake control, this may well be the more dangerous alternative.
DANGER NOTE: in this stage, it is possible to apply too muchthrottle, so that the machinewill run away from
you. Attemptingto pull
it backwill roll on more throttle, and the consequences may be deduced - this will tend
to hurtyour bike and possibly your person as well, so be careful!
(There is also a side-saddle approach, with the provisos described earlier still in erect.)
If you had a helper, don'tforget toyell your thanks as you ride away.
In the event that all of the aboveyields nojoy, it's time to begintroubleshooting
- I usually do this if the bike
won't go after the first two orthree kicks. Here are the things to check:
I. Ignition
Because it's the simplest and least messy,' most people check the ignition system first. Remove the spark plug,
and lay
it onthe cylinder head, ensuring contact withthe engine by the "nut" part of the plug. Ensure that the
high-tensionwire
is connected, and no uninsulated part of it is close tothe cylinder head surface. With ignition
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CHAPTER 2 - TROUBLESHOOTING
on, gently kick the engine over, and you should see a bright blue spark at the plug end. If the spark is weak and
tending towards yellow, you shouldfirst tryyour clean, spare plug.
(Don't have one? Get one! - and always carry it
and a plug wrench/spanner in your toolbox!)
If there's no improvement with afresh plug, check the ignition points
inyour contact breaker housing
(see chapter 4) toensure that they are clean and opening properly. You should
also rotatethe engine so that they are closed, and ensure that there
is a small (12 Volt) spark when they are
pried open with a screwdriver orother tool nottouching anything butthe movingpoint. Orthat there is 12V
powerbetween them when they're open.
(Ignition on in either case.) If not, go to chapter 4 for detailed checking
of the points and ignition system.
A note onspark plugs: since there is considerablygreater pressure inthe cylinder at the top of the compression
strokethan that ofthegeneral atmosphere,
it is possiblethat aspark can occur outside, but notunderactual operating
conditions.So youwant agood, brightspark, and aclean plug. If in doubt, replacethe plugwith anewor"known-good"
one, and if necessary looktothe points and general ignition troubleshooting as covered in Chapter
4.
2. Fuel:
With a"tickler" type carburetor,such as the Amals, which use "flooding"to ensure a rich starting mixture, depressing
the tickler should result in aflow of fuel out of the top of the float bowl, through the tickler hole. Thisverifies
instantly that there is fuel inthe tank, and that all filters and strainersare clear. However, with the "Mikcarb" type
carburetors,
it is a little more difficult toverify fuel flow. This is ironic, because plugged strainers (in the fuel line),
fuel taps themselves, and filters, if any, in the carburetor fuel circuit are common in the Enfields, due to internal
tank rusting. To verify fuel flow, you can remove thefloat bowl drain screw at the very bottom of the carburetor
- or, if none is present,the entirefloat bowl by removing the four upwards-facingfasteners. Drain the fuel into a
clean container such as a tuna can. Turn off the fuel tap before drainingthe float bowl. If the fuel is clean, return
ittothe fuel tank.
IVO FUEL FLOW - Nofuel coming out?You have a serious blockage, assumingof course that the fuel tap was
on the "on" position while you were tryingto start the machine, and that there
is amplefuel inthe tank. Check
this first. Then, turn onthe fuel tap and see if any comes out now. If not, you'll have to check the tank output as
described below.
FUEL FLOWOK
- If fuel drains out, before checkingforfuel flow, examine the drained fuel for signs of water or
other contaminants. Water will show as bubblesof clear stuff at the bottom of the container. Drain until no sign
of water shows. Rust orother dirt may indicatethat the tank requires cleaning.
Cleaningthe Fuel System
If the drainedfuel contains water, you will likely have to drain and dry the fuel tank, although, since water is heavier
than gasoline, you may be able to get
it out by runningsome until itcomes clear. If it contains rust ordirt particles,
you maywant to try a simple cleaningof the float bowl, adoptinga "wait-and-see" attitude over how long
it takes
todirty up again
- cleaningyourfloat bowl monthly isn'ttoo unsupportable, every I0miles it can becomea real pain!
Now,with the tap turned off, remove the float bowl. There will be either a spring clip around the bottom of the
bowl, orfixing screws goingthrough the carb body downwards into the bowl itself, orvice versa
- all this depends
on the model of carburetor featured onyour machine. Once the bowl
is off, thoroughly clean the inside. If there
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CHAPTER 2 - TROUBLESHOOTING
is agreat deal of loose foreign material in there, you should get ready forfurther trouble with pluggedjets and
passages in the carburetor itself, but if the bike ranwell up until this time,
it may not be necessary.
If the problem was erratic running, be sure to remove the jet carrier (see
the chapter on your carburetor - links in
the index)
and check that boththe main and needlejets are clear.
Next, check the operation of the float/needle assembly. The float is there to maintaina level of fuel in the float
bowl by openingthe float valve as the fuel level in the bowl drops, and closingthe valve when
it getstothe proper
level. Usinga screwdriver orsimilartool, gently move the float up, and allow gravity to bring
it down afew times
- itshould movefreely. SAFETY NOTE: Avoid contaminatingyourself with gasoline - it contains harmfulsubstances
that will go right through your skin. Wash with soap and water if necessary, and as soon as possible. Usetools
to handle gasoline-wet components.
If the float assembly does movefreely, with your drain container under the carburetor, turn on the fuel tap and
check for flow again. If itflows, usinga screwdriver, clean stick, orsimilar tool, alternately open and close the
float valve by GENTLY raisingthe float and allowing itto lower again
- DONOTuse excessiveforce - you can
change the float level by bendingthe delicate linkage between float and needle valve.
If there is still nofuel flow, close the fuel tap (onthe tank), disconnectthe fuel line at the tap, and, with your
drain container there to catch any flow, try openingthe tap. If you havefuel in the tank, but no flow,
it follows
that you'll have to remove the tap. You can do this by havingafunnel or large-mouth container of suitable
capacity handy, and unscrewingthe tap, allowing the fuel to drain into the container once the tap is removed.
You may want to use a pump-type siphon todrain as much of the tank as possiblefirst. DONOTsuck on the
hosewithyour mouth!
HEREARE SOME POSSIBLE PROBLEMSANDTHEIR CURES:
WATER ORRUST INFLIEL: Drain, clean, and dry the tank. If the rust problem persists, you may want totry
washingthe tank with diesel fuel and gravel, shaking
it a lot, then drying and treatingwith a rust preparation,
such as MetalprepTM,MetaletchTM,RustmortTM,orsome such phosphoric acid product, and refilling after drying.
PLUGGED FUEL TAP: This may be the screen above the tap, orthe tap itself. Unplug if possible, replaceif not.
HEAI-TH/SAFETY NOTE: Motorfuel is poisonous. Although tetraethyl lead has prettywell been eliminated
from gasolines, unleadedgasolines contain even more dangerouscompounds. So avoid getting any onyou
- the
bad stuff will go through your skin and into your system likeyour skin wasn't even there. Usetools to avoid
contact whenever possible, and wipe off any spills immediately.Wash thoroughly with soap and water inthe
case of havinggotten any onyou.
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CHAPTER 3 - BASIC DAY-TO-DAY MAINTENANCE: LUBRICATION, CLEANING,AND ADJUSTMENTS
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CHAPTER 3 - BASIC DAY-TO-DAY MAINTENANCE: LUBRICATION, CLEANING,AND ADJUSTMENTS
CHAPTER 3 - BASIC DAY-TO-DAY MAINTENANCE:
Lubrication,Cleaning,andAdjustments
I. CLEANING I
A clean motorcycleis a happy motorcycle!As well as the obvious benefits of pride of ownership and maintenanceof
resalevalue, there is avery good reasonfor cleaningyour motorcycle almostafter every ride:
- Vibration: this can bring
about looseningof fastenings, cracking or breakage of fittings, and misadjustmentswhich becomemost apparent as
you go around the nooksand crannies of your machine with a brush and rag, cleaningand inspecting. You may be
surprisedat the things you notice as you clean your bike
- oil seepage becomes apparentbefore it becomes a major
problem,forexample. Loose nuts orcrackedfittings are much moreeasily remedied before they fail completely.
It
is often a help tostart by brushingitdownwith kerosene,washingsolvent, ordiesel fuel, followed by soapy water,
hot if possible, and rinsingcarefully with hose orbucket. If water is in short supply, you can use asquirt bottle. Some
owners mix a little dieselfuel inwith the soapy water and do a "one-shot" washing
- the diesel providesacorrosion
inhibitor forthe otherwise unprotected aluminum parts, of which the Bullet has plenty.
BUFFING: itis also helpfulto polish the aluminum and even chrome parts. Automotive cut polish
is goodfor aluminum,
but should befollowed bywaxingordiesel fuel. Mixturesof wax and polish, such as Turtle WaxTMare very good,
for paint, chrome, and aluminum.
As you cleanthe motorcycle,develop the habit of lookingcarefullyat the fasteners, brackets, mountingpoints for
mudguard/fenders, etc. Lookforcracks, loose nuts and bolts, and oil seepage. It's agood ideatofollow up regularly
with spanner/wrenches, checkingthe tightness of your fasteners.
You may be surprisedat how much betteryour mount runs after a decent bath!
2. LUBRICATION
Lubricationshould be paid attention toas regularlyas washing, and particularlyafter washing. Control cables, both at
the endjunctions of inner and outer cables, and particularlywhere the end nipples
fit into the control levers (clutch
and front brake.) As forthe throttle cable, pullthe outer downfrom the twist grip, and puta drop ortwo of oil on
the innercable. Dittoforthe front brakeand clutch.
Oil levels should also be checked regularly. The engine oil level should be checked each time before startingthe
motorcycle.Dothis by unscrewingthe oilfiller cap, atthe rightside of the engine behind the timingcover, and noting
the oil level onthe dipstick. If your levelisn't betwe nthe lines, this will be due toone of two reasons: Wet-Sumping,
oractual shortage of oil inthe system.
e
Wet-Sumping
This is the namegiven tothe condition inwhich a quantity of oil has leaked internallyfrom the oil reservoir intothe
sump, orbottomof the engine crankcase. The Bullet has a "DrySump" lubricationsystem, which means that asecond
oil pump, called the "scavenge pump,"
is used to moveoil which has been throughthe engine parts,from the sump
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