Sawn Craft Zero 32 User guide

Revised 2016-04-18
Zero 32
Assembly and Setup Manual
Specifications
Recommended Power System
Wingspan
32”
ESC
10A Brushless
Overall Length
31.9”
Motor
100 watt out runner (24g)
Wing Area
233.7 in2
Servo
4x 5g Micro
Flying Weight
8.2oz / 235g
RX
6-Channel (4-ch minimum)
Intended Use
Indoor/Outdoor
Battery
450mAh 3S 11.1V 25C LiPo (or similar)

Thank you from Sawn Craft.
Thank you for purchasing the Sawn Craft Zero 32 aircraft kit, the first 32" offering in our Front Yard
Fighters Series! Like the full-scale A6M Zero, in your hands is a remarkably versatile airplane designed to
deliver a pleasure cruiser with an incredible look in the air. The lightweight and resilient EPP and carbon
construction makes it possible for you to experience a wide performance envelope. This means that no
matter how you like to fly, you’ll enjoy both stability and maneuverability without any sacrifice in
precision or control feel.
Your Sawn Craft Zero 32 aircraft kit represents the benchmark of indoor flight performance and
aerobatic versatility. All you have to do next is read and apply the information presented in this
instruction manual.
I sincerely hope that you enjoy your model as much as we do! If you have any troubles with these
instructions or in the setup of your model feel free to contact us and we will provide you with the
service you expect from a hobbyist-owned and operated business.
Jonathan Sawn
Owner, Sawn Craft
[email protected]om

TableofContents
1 Introduction 1
1.1 Style Conventions 1
1.2 Required Tools & Supplies 1
1.3 Required Parts for Completion 2
1.4 Included Parts Description 3
2 Assembly Instructions 4
2.1 Parts Sheet Removal 4
2.2 Fuselage Components Assembly 5
2.3 Control Surface Hinging 6
2.4 Lower Component Assembly 8
2.5 Landing Gear Assembly 9
2.6 Upper Vertical Fuselage Installation 10
2.7 Electronics Installation 11
2.8 Gusset Installation 15
2.9 Painting/Decorating 16
3 Setup and Tuning 17
3.1 Center of Gravity 17
3.2 Radio Setup and Mixing 17
3.3 Control Throws and Expo 18
3.4 Launching/Take-Off 18
3.5 Flying Tips 18
3.6 Repairs & Spare Parts 19

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1 Introduction
NOTE: This manual is available on Sawn-Craft.com under the Support tab. Once there, you can view and
print this manual in a larger size at your convenience.
The contents of this manual assume the operator will have the following prerequisites:
Understanding of all appropriate safety procedures and requirements
The ability to follow written procedures and possess basic hobby building skills
1.1 Style Conventions
Below are the important style conventions that will be used throughout the guide.
Note: Key points or hints for success will be formatted in this manner.
Warning: Any area that poses either a physical hazard or the danger will be formatted in this manner.
Arrows inform where to click or to perform the specified operation.
Circled items inform of items of interest for the specified operation. Circled items will typically be
accompanied by text further identifying the region of interest.
1.2 Required Tools & Supplies
The list below contains all of the required tools and supplies that are required for the assembly and
tuning of this model.
Clean, flat work surface (building board)
#11 hobby knife or other razor knife
with spare blades
2x Metal straight-edge ruler
T-Pins (1” – 1.5” are ideal)
Scissors
Marker
Drill w/ 1/16” & 5/64” bit
Beacon Foam-Tac foam-safe adhesive
CA adhesive
Masking tape
Wax paper
Soldering iron & solder
Heat gun
Wire cutters
Needle nose pliers

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Sawn Craft recommends the use of Beacon Foam-Tac adhesive for the construction of this model due
to its strength, light weight, and easy use. Foam-Tac can be purchased by visiting the Building
Supplies tab on Sawn-Craft.com
1.3 Required Parts for Completion
The list below contains the tested and recommended parts for your model:
Sawn Craft FYF Completion Kit - Large
oHextronik 24g 1300kv motor
o10A Brushless ESC
o4x 5g Servos
o6-Channel Receiver (Optional)
o8”x4” Electric Prop
oJST Female Pigtail
oShrink tube, etc.
460mAh 3S 25C LiPo Battery
Velcro
Please note that other power systems and components may be compatible and may work without
issue, but the listed components have been used successfully by Sawn Craft.
The order of assembly presented in this instruction has been tested and it is recommended that you
do not differ from them to provide the most accurate and easiest assembly possible. Also, the
construction techniques of many of our aircraft are extremely similar. Though we will try to include
as many photos of your specific kit in this instruction, other kit assembly photos may be used if the
instruction and “look” of the assembly is the same.

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1.4 Included Parts Description
Please inspect your kit and ensure that all listed parts are present and undamaged. If you find missing
parts or signs of damage please contact [e-mail] for assistance.
a) 30” Carbon Strip
b) Rudder
c) Elevator Half (2 each)
d) Wing (2 each)
e) Aileron (2 each)
f) 3mm EPP Gussets (4 each long half, 2 each short)
g) Lower Vertical Fuselage Front
h) Lower Vertical Fuselage Rear
i) Horizontal Fuselage Front
j) Horizontal Fuselage Middle
k) Horizontal Fuselage Rear
l) Upper Vertical Fuselage Front
m) Upper Vertical Fuselage Middle
n) Upper Vertical Fuselage Rear
o) Small Parts Bag:
o.1 35mm Wheel (2 each)
o.2 9” Carbon Strip
o.3 7” Carbon Rod (3 each)
o.4 3” Carbon Rod
o.5 Plywood Motor Mount
o.6 Plywood Control Horns (4 each)
o.7 Wire Control Rods (4 each)
o.8 Micro Linkage Stoppers (4 each)
o.9 24” Landing Gear Binding Thread
e
g
d
i
f
j
b
a
k
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
9
8
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l

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2 AssemblyInstructions
2.1 Parts Sheet Removal
Parts Required:
oKit Parts Sheets
1) Using a sharp hobby knife carefully cut the foam parts out of the sheets. The small tabs holding
the parts into the sheet can sometimes be tricky to find so if you have trouble removing a part
from the sheet keep looking for that last tab. Once out of the sheet, you may choose to clean up
the remaining tab on the foam pieces with some sandpaper.
2) Find and mark with masking tape the bottom of the horizontal fuselage, bottom of the wing halves,
bottom of the ailerons, and bottom of the elevator. The bottom of these components will have a
slot milled for carbon strips. Find and mark with masking tape the LEFT side of the rudder and the
LEFT side of upper component of the vertical fuselage. These labels will help to assure the beveled
hinge cuts are on the correct side of the foam.
Note: Looking at the bottom
side of the Elevator
components, the control horn
slot should be to the left.
Looking at the bottom side of
the Horizontal Fuselage, the
cut-out for the elevator servo
should also be located to the
left.

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2.2 Fuselage Components Assembly
Parts Required:
oHorizontal Fuselage Nose, Middle, & Tail
oUpper Vertical Fuselage Nose, Middle, & Tail
oLower Vertical Fuselage Nose & Tail
o3mm Long Gusset Halves
1) Using Foam-Tac, glue the Horizontal Fuselage Nose, Middle, & Tail pieces together to form the
completed Horizontal Fuselage.
2) Glue the Upper Vertical Fuselage Nose, Middle, & Tail pieces together to form the completed
Upper Vertical Fuselage.
3) Glue the Lower Vertical Fuselage Nose & Tail together to form the completed Lower Vertical
Fuselage.
4) Glue the one 3mm Long Gusset half to its mating other half to form a completed 3mm Long
Gusset. Repeat this process for the other 3mm Gusset halves.
Attach here after
removed from sheet

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2.3 Control Surface Hinging
Parts Required:
oHorizontal Fuselage
oUpper Vertical Fuselage
oWing (2x)
oAileron (2x)
oRudder
oElevator
5) Bevel the hinged control surfaces (ailerons, rudder, & elevator) along the bottom edge of the
ailerons and elevator and down the left side of the rudder, using steel rulers and fresh single-edge
razor blades. Set a 12-inch or longer metal ruler backing at the edge of your workbench. Lay the
foam part to be beveled on the ruler, aligning the edge of the ruled and the edge of the foam
nearest to you. Lay a second steel ruler facing down far enough back to expose enough foam to
allow a 45 degree slice to be removed. Cut the foam with the single-edge razor blade held against
both rulers. Angling the blade makes a smoother cut.
EPP foam dulls blades surprisingly fast, so be prepared to change to a fresh blade when you detect
snagging or excess drag as you make your cuts!

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6) Make glue hinges. Pin to the building board each of the hinged parts, with bevel cut down against
the building board. Locate the parts with the mating surfaces gently touching. Run the smallest
possible bead of foam glue along each seam. Run a finger along each seam to push the glue
between the mating parts. Blot up excess glue with a paper towel. Let dry at sufficiently for the
glue to fully cure. Leaving the parts overnight is ideal for the strongest and most true bond.
BUILDING TIP: Keep small wipes handy to remove excess glue. Glue outside the joint adds weight, but
does not add strength. To get a pile of these wipes, lay four paper towels together and cut in half
repeatedly. Four paper towels cut to roughly 2x2 inch squares yields 64 very handy "micro wipes."

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2.4 Lower Component Assembly
Parts Required:
oWing Assembly (2 each)
oHorizontal Fuselage Assembly
oLower Vertical Fuselage
oUpper Vertical Fuselage Assembly
o9” Carbon Strip
o27” Carbon Strip
oPlywood Control Horns (4 each)
o6.5” Carbon Rod (2 each)
1) Assemble and glue lower components. Test fit all part without glue to check fit before gluing.
Work over waxed paper to keep from gluing the model to the building surface.
- Pin the horizontal fuselage component to the building surface.
- Glue in the 9” carbon strip elevator spar.
- Glue the wing halves in place. Wipe off excess glue.
- Run a bead of glue along the spar slot and press the 27” carbon strip spar into place. Wipe off any glue
that has squeezed out of the slot.
- Glue the Lower Vertical Fuselage in place. 1.25 inch T-pins work well to hold it in place perpendicular to
and in firm contact with the Horizontal Fuselage. Wipe glue that squeezed out of the joint.
- Install four plywood control horns in slots provided in ailerons, rudder and elevator. Wipe off excess
glue.
- Install two 6.5-inch carbon fiber rods for landing gear.
- Let this assembly set until the glue has fully cured. For the best bond, leave parts overnight.
Wipe off all glue outside of foam joints. This glue does not add any strength, but it does add weight
which will negatively affect the flight characteristics of the model.

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2.5 Landing Gear Assembly
Parts Required:
oMain Assembly
o7” Carbon Rod
o35mm Wheel (2 each)
o24” Thread
1) Install the axle to complete the landing gear. Slide the wheels on the remaining carbon fiber rod
and make sure they spin freely. If too snug fit, chamfer or slightly taper the axle rod ends with
sandpaper to allow the wheels and hubs to go easily onto the axle.
Tape one end of the axle in place and bind the other side with the black thread provided in the kit.
Remove the tape and bind the other side. Note that the axle should be arranged between the
angled components to be as parallel to the spar as possible, to that the plane rolls as straight as
possible when taxiing. Adjust the axle for even overhang on each side and for parallel to the wing
so that the plane sits level. Secure the thread binding with a drop if CA glue on each side.
2) Slide the wheels on and hold them in place with a plastic hub made from the center portion of a
servo arm from a micro servo. Remove the arms with side cutters, sand for smoothness, drill out to
5/64”if necessary and slide the hubs on to hold the wheels in place. Allow a little side-to-side play
for easy rolling and secure the hubs with a drop on foam glue.

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2.6 Upper Vertical Fuselage Installation
Parts Required:
oMain Assembly
oUpper Vertical Fuselage Assembly
o3" Carbon Rod
1) Glue the upper vertical fuselage component in place and hold in position with T-pins until the glue
dries. Apply a bead of glue to the rudder hinge below the elevator. Wipe off excess glue to save
weight.
2) Use some sandpaper and sharpen one end of the 3-inch carbon fiber rod tail skid. Carefully push
the pointed end of the skid into the foam at about the angle shown in the photos. Secure with
foam glue if desired. The preferred location for the tail skid is shown. The skid stiffens the tail
section and saves shock from the rudder servo by keeping the rudder off of the ground.

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2.7 Electronics Installation
Parts Required:
o24g Brushless Motor
o10A ESC
o4+ channel Receiver
o4x 5g Servos
o2x 40cm servo extensions
The power and radio components you select to install in your Front Yard Fighters kit will likely be similar
to the below photo. Don’t forget that you can buy the Front Yard Fighter Completion Kit -Large that
includes all of the necessary electronics to get your kit in the air without having to piece them together
yourself.
1) Since we mount the rudder and elevator servos in the tail, 40cm servo extensions will be needed to
connect to the receiver, located near the wing spar. If you install a four-channel receiver, you'll
need a Y-cable to drive the ailerons from one receiver channel. If you install a six-channel receiver, a
Y-cable is not needed, as the aileron servos can plug directly in to AIL and AUX channels on the
receiver, and are mixed in the transmitter.
2) Assemble the pair of aileron servos, with control arms, adjustment hardware, and control linkage
hardware. Locate the servos so the control linkage is aligned and fix in place with a spot of foam
glue. Once the glue is cured, trim the control wire if it is too long.

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BUILDER'S TIP: Bend T-pins into Z-bend shape in order to use them to hold components and other
large areas securely.
3) If your rudder and elevator servos fit in the pre-cut slots, great! If they are larger, carefully trim
away a little foam with a sharp hobby knife. We want a snug fit of the rear servos in their foam slots,
to minimize the amount of glue needed to secure them in place. Add the glue and fix the servos
into their slots.
Pull the servo cable with the extension cable toward the front of the aircraft and bring them out
through the holes provided near the receiver location. Apply just a tiny bit of glue to the flat side of
the servo that rests against the vertical component of the fuselage, to fix it in place.
You can attach the elevator and rudder control rods now. Trim any excess control wire.
4) Mount the motor to the plywood motor mount provided in the kit. We find the mounting screws
shipped with the servos ideal for this. Locate the wire bundle at one of the corners of the motor
mount. If the motor shaft protrudes from the rear of the motor case, make sure spinning parts not
touch the plywood motor mount or foam spacers, as this would cause drag and reduce motor
performance.

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5) Select from the spacers provided in the kit the combination that locates the front of the motor
case flush with the front of the fuselage. Make sure the propeller has plenty of clearance. Glue
the spacers and motor mount in place with foam glue. We find it useful to mount the propeller
to aid in getting the motor mounted square in the fuselage. Once set on the spacers, remove
the motor from the firewall and glue the spacers and firewall to the fuselage.
For best 3D performance we want a "Zero Zero" motor angle setup. We want the motor in line
with the centerline of the fuselage - no down thrust, and no right thrust. This helps to insure
that upright and inverted performance are as similar as possible, without needing trim change
adjustments.
6) Locate the ESC and receiver near the nose and fix in place with Velcro. Make sure you locate them
so the plugs are accessible.
BUILDER'S TIP: to work on the underside of the plane after the upper vertical fuselage is installed, set
the plane on a pair of same-size boxes.

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7) Solder the wires to the motor and the ESC, shortening the wires as desired to make a clean
installation. Solder the battery connector to the ESC. Run the ESC radio connector to the receiver.
Tuck the excess wire through the hole provided to make a neat wiring installation. Secure the ESC
with a spot of glue.
8) Attach a strip of the opposite side of Velcro™ hook and loop tape to the underside if the horizontal
fuselage component than you use on your batteries. Make it longer that the battery to allow fine
adjustment to the plane's center of gravity. Attach the opposing hook and loop tape to battery
packs to hold them in place when in use.

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2.8 Gusset Installation
Parts Required:
oMain Assembly
o3mm EPP Gussets (2 long, 2 short)
BUILDING TIP: The wires from the rudder and elevator servos will be concealed neatly under the
fuselage side braces.
1) Lay the left long 3mm EPP gusset along the upper fuselage sides aligning the front of the gusset
with the front of the fuselage. Aim for a 45 degree angle between vertical and horizontal
fuselages. Trim excess gusset in line with the elevator hinge. Once satisfied with the fit, use foam
glue and t-pins to secure the gusset until the glue is cured.
The weighted bags and equal-height boxes in the above left photo help to keep the airframe square
while the side gussets are being glued. This isn’t necessary, but it has proven to help some builders.
2) Repeat the same steps for the right long gusset.
3) Repeat the installation process with the small gussets on the underside of the assembly, aligned to
the front of the fuselage.

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2.9 Painting/Decorating
Parts Required:
oMain Assembly
oPaint, markers, decals, etc.
One of the beauties of this aircraft is that you have the opportunity to finish it with the look that you
desire. We recommend purchasing the painted version of our kits for the fastest and easiest way to a
great looking model. If you chose to decorate your model yourself, water-based paints have been used
with success in the past as have permanent markers. Prior to using any paints or markers, test on a
scrap piece of foam to ensure that it doesn’t damage the foam.
Remember that any weight you add to the airframe will affect its performance so keep heavy
applications of paint and decals to a minimum. You would be surprised at how quickly the weight
from paint adds up!
Our personal and demo models are painted using an airbrush then panel lines are added using a
straight-edge ruler or various objects around the workshop and a Sharpie marker to trace around them.

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3 Setup and Tuning
3.1 Center of Gravity
Probably no other step is as important to having a sweet-flying airplane as locating the fore-and-aft
balance point, CG, center of gravity in the correct spot. Too far forward makes for sluggish performance.
Too far back makes for a twitchy and hard to control airplane.
The starting CG for Sawn-Craft Front Yard Fighters is at the carbon fiber blade wing spar. Anywhere
between the spar and the aileron hinge will be acceptable. Ace-of-the-base pilots can move it further
back for more agile responsiveness to control inputs and to facilitate hovering maneuvers.
3.2 Radio Setup & Mixing
Depending on the transmitter and receiver that you are using to control your model you may find that
you need to do some special setup to make the control surfaces work properly.
Aircraft Setup Reference
Transmitter
Wing Mode
Mix 1
Mix 2
Notes
Spektrum DX6i
DualAile
N/A
N/A
Differential: ~12% if desired
Spektrum DX7s
& DX8
Dual Aileron
N/A
N/A
Differential: ~12% if desired
Spektrum DX6,
DX7, DX9 &
DX18
Dual Aileron
N/A
N/A
Differential: ~12% if desired
Note: The mixes given above reflect what was tested using our prototype setups and electronics. They should be used as a
starting point and you may find that you end up with a different setting. If you are having trouble please contact us for
assistance.