Serpent F110 Manual

THE BUILD
STARTS
NOW

The F110-13 is in stores now and three kits have made
their way to my door. One is already on my work bench being built, for
testing and to finish off the F-1 series here in Victoria, Australia. The
following will detail the build as they appear in step form in the manual.
I have been waiting for over a year now, for the release of the F-110 but
SERPENT held off the release to do extensive testing to make sure the F1
was as near perfect as could be. Below is a short wrap up of the past year
for the F-110
SERPENT HERITAGE:
Serpent started developing and manufacturing RC
cars in the Netherlands in 1980, and has
expanded its RC car program ever since!
Serpent has won multiple World Championships,
as well as European, American and Asian
Championship titles. Michael Salven is head of
design for all on road Serpent cars.
Michael has been racing all his life, and has won
World and European Championship titles, as well
as many German national titles. His experience
and knowledge has also been used to design this
new Serpent F110 car, as the Serpent entry into
the growing 1/10 Formula one class. Michael has
worked together with Nacho Lopez and a number
of test-drivers like Jan Asmer and Ludovic Leflon
and a number of Asian drivers with Team-driver
Yuya Sahahsi heading the team.
Michael Salven

RACING:
Serpent team driver Jan Asmer from Germany has raced the Serpent F110 proto-
type since the 2nd round of the ETS championship, and has won the 2012-2013 ETS
title. The F110 prototype was also used at the TITC in Thailand with great success,
and Team-driver Yuya Sahahsi won a recent F1 race in Japan with the almost final
production version of the F110 car.
The F110-13 and all your SERPENT needs can be
sourced from www.walterrchobby.com.au the AUSTRALIAN
distributor for SERPENT.
“LET’S BUILD THIS WEAPON”

The F110-13 Manual is to be downloaded from the
SERPENT web page, easily read with full colour pictures of the processes
you’re undertaking.
I have built all the SERPENT Off Road Range 811T, 811B, 811Be and
never have I come across any mishaps with installing or with any parts
supplied in their kits, Top Quality___ that’s it, and after opening the box
that’s exactly what I got - QUALITY!!!!
The first process was to CA glue around all the edges of the CF (carbon
fibre) to prevent it from possibly splitting I found the best way was to
pour a dab of the CA glue on to a piece of plastic cut off the parts frame,
using the round end and run along the side of the CF, I coated it twice.

After letting it dry completely it was time to start putting it together.
The next step was to start with the front suspension components.
There are 3 different height spacers 1, 2 and 4mm this will give you a
various range of ride heights, easy to adjust simply by loosening the two
holding screws removing or adding spacers then re-tighten

Servo brace - the two bottom servo tabs of your servo need to be
removed I cut them off with a hack saw then smoothed it off with the
dremal.

When fitting the king pin use a 1.5mm tool in the end of the king pin and
screw into the steering block, the manual doesn’t mention this, don’t want
you using pliers or similar as this will damage the pin and bind the spring
movement.
#HINT: I FOUND THAT TRYING TO FIT THE SPRING AND E-CLIP NEAR
IMPOSSIBLE. FOLLOW STEPS IN MANUAL WHEN YOU GET TO THE STEP
FOR FITTING THE FRONT SPRING: REMOVE THE KING PIN FIT THE E-CLIP
THEN SPRING, FEED THE KING PIN THROUGH THE LOWER ARM BALL AND

SCREW BACK INTO THE STEERING BLOCK ELIMINATES A LOT OF
PAINFUL FAILURES, NO LOST E-CLIPS OR SPRINGS.
Next is the rear pod and wing, I attached the factory wing for the build
but I’ll use the 3 Racing FGX wings as they were laying around may as
well put them to use as they fit, just need to place an extra 3mm spacer
so the wing mount clears the rear wing CF mounting brace

Above: Rear pod and factory wing ready to fit to chassis.
Below: fitted with the now standard pivot ball system.

The rear axle supports for the top deck and side spring installations were
next on the agenda. The side springs are to be set at approximately 3mm
down as that is where mine worked well. The manual has them tight
against the top plate.
# HINT: TURN THE CHASSIS OVER AND LOOK FLAT ALONG THE
CHASSIS BASE IF THE POD ISN'T LEVEL ADJUST SCREWS SO THEY
LEVEL THE POD

Centre spring mount, Mono shock spring, body posts and aerial are next
and the rolling chassis of the SERPENT F-110 is nearly done. With the
spring piston I went with the two hole, the factory one is the 1 hole.

Front wing is next. The one shown fitted is the low down force type.
(THERE ARE 2 FRONT WINGS SUPPLIED BUY SERPENT IN THE KIT, LOW
AND HIGH DOWNFORCE MADE OF LEXAN SO THEY NEED TO BE CUT OUT
CAREFULLY AND PAINTED WITH YOUR PERSONAL TOUCH)

The following picture shows the CF ESC and receiver plates that attach to
the side, I chose not use them as I’ll be using the Shorty battery and
there is no need for them with plenty of room to put electrics on the
chassis
After all the Electrics, motor and Wheels are on the F-110 is ready for the
next meeting which happens to be the VIC CUP F1 SERIES Round 3.

Now looking at the top deck it seems too much to remove the battery,
when the spring and wiring are in place, this question has been asked on
forums a few times since its release.
In the previous picture you can sort of see why the questions were asked
It does seem to be locked away and a headache to change, but looks can
be deceiving. There would be 2 or 3 ways to change the battery but I’d
say the easiest would be the following pictures, they will show the
simplicity of the process.
Disconnect the battery and with a 2mm driver take out the 4 screws
Rotate the CF plate (with the spring attached) to one side then simply
remove the battery.

Reverse process to refit battery
Now, to give you all a small rundown of what bodies will fit the SERPENT
F110.
·All Tamiya F104 body kits fit but may need some slight alterations
in the rear pod area
·TRG bodies and wings fit (in Australia these can be sourced through
http://topracing.net.au/shop/index.p...ewCat&catId=33)
·3 RACINGS FGX body (with the Shorty battery set up) and also the
F113 sourced in Australia through either
http://www.nbhc.com.au/fgx-f-1-body-bdy-fgx/ or through
www.feralbatteries.com/thumbnail.asp?file=assets/images/bdyf113
_thumbnail.jpg&maxx=150

·Tamiya F103 bodies may be too bulky in the rear but that’s just a
visual preference I have.
As for any other bodies on the market try and see is all I can say.
#HINT: I MOVED THE FRONT BODY POST TO GET MORE CLEARANCE
OVER THE SERVO AREA.
Simple process drill a 2.5 mm hole in-between the bumper mounting
screws, place a 3m x 10mm set screw half way in the drilled hole then fit
the body post to the set screw.

I have used the SPEED PASSION F-68 body made for the F104 line from
TAMIYA, it fits really well and you cut out the lines for the front
suspension as they are marked out on the body for the F104.
The body posts are cut where the body sits when all squared up. There
are also four different types of nose cones and 2 different rear air dam
wings, not shown. I like the look it gives to the SERPENT F1.

Tyres: Now all RIDES on RIDE rims will fit, to use the Pit Shumizu
grooved tyres you use the RIDE rim, but any other Pit F104 tyre is to be
put on the f104 foam rims silver or black which are pictured below
Tamiya 51378 F104 Spare Wheel Set
Fitting of the foam rim and a rubber tyres can be found here in pictorial
or video format,
www.rcformula1.com.au/index.php/tech-tips/tyres
…as well as tips on choosing tyres for temperatures of hot and cold
weather.
Well that is all for the build. Wiring up your F1 is up to you, remembering
to lessen weight with minimal wiring allowing movement between chassis
and rear pod and not to interfere with the rear mono shock. Photos of a
few different wiring jobs follow to give you an idea. Total weight for my
race F110 is 1093gr great race weight.