SIG Rascal 110 User manual

RASCAL 110 ARF ASSEMBLY MANUAL
INTRODUCTION:
SIG's RASCAL 110 ARF represents one of the largest, best built
R/C model aircraft ever offered to modelers. The distinctive and
classic lines of the Rascal are reminiscent of the beautiful personal
aircraft designs of the thirties and post WWII periods. The elegant
good looks of the Rascal design seem to bridge the gap between
modern small aircraft and airplanes from the golden age of flight.
Designed specifically for modelers who have always wanted a
large, giant-scale airplane without all of the large airplane hassles,
the Rascal 110 ARF kit offers a perfect balance of size,
performance, looks, and versatility. From experience, we can tell
you that the Rascal 110 ARF will almost always draw a crowd of
admiring onlookers. But when the airplane takes to the air, the
smooth flight characteristics and sheer size make it even more
impressive.
You will have never flown an easier to handle airplane than the
Rascal 110 ARF. Take-offs and landings are spectacular in their
smoothness and when it comes to what goes on in the air, the
Rascal 110 is positively elegant. Despite it’s large size, the Rascal
110 can be easily flown at most typical R/C flying sites, either
grass or asphalt fields. Landings can be very slow and predictable
and the take-off runs are usually less than many .40-size trainers.
Powered with typical 1.20 4-stroke engines, the Rascal 110 is
capable of mild aerobatics, such as loops, lazy rolls, inverted flight,
etc. Power the airplane with larger engines and things can get a
bit more interesting. Our Rascal 110 models, powered with 1.50
or 1.80 4-stroke engines and 1.50 2-stroke engines, turned into
very capable aerobatic airplanes! Of course, the Rascal 110 ARF
is not a pure aerobatic machine and was never intended for IMAC
competition. None-the-less, with practice, it will deliver an
amazingly nice flight routine.
The Rascal 110 ARF is very well built, with attention paid to every
detail of its construction and finish. Even the functional aluminum
wing struts have been expertly built and factory painted, providing
just the right "look" to the model. The fiberglass cowl and wheel
pants are equally impressive, giving the airplane that "finished"
look, truly setting it apart from anything else available. The
airframe has been expertly covered with AeroKote™, employing a
trim scheme that is highly visible in flight and very attractive on the
ground. The kit includes all of the detailed decals seen on the box
art, allowing you to make the model very realistic. SIG has even
included a beautiful scale-like tailwheel assembly that fits the look
of this airplane almost perfectly!
Because of its size and lifting ability, the Rascal 110 ARF is a great
choice for use as a camera ship, either still or video. Properly
powered, it would also make a good glider tug and is also certainly
capable of towing banners. Properly modified, it could also be
used to drop candy or parachutes. Another potential use for this
versatile model is night flying. Because the trim scheme employs
the use of transparent covering material in the open areas of the
structure, lighting systems - such as those made and sold by Ram
Products - would be very effective!
Assembly of the Rascal 110 is easy, quick, and straightforward.
This assembly manual is fully illustrated and includes all detailed
instructions in the correct sequence. This allows you to get the
airplane from the box to the flying field in a very short amount of
time. We strongly suggest that you read through this manual first
to get familiar with the various parts and their assembly
sequences. The proper assembly and flying of this aircraft is your
responsibility. If you are new to the sport/hobby of radio control
model airplanes, we urge you to seek the assistance of a qualified
person to help you assemble this R/C model aircraft correctly. If
you do not understand a particular assembly step or sequence,
DO NOT guess - find qualified help and use it.
RADIO EQUIPMENT:
The Rascal 110 ARF requires a 4-channel radio system, with five
servos. Because of its size and the wide variety of engines that
can be used in this airplane, we highly recommend that you use
servos with at least 60 in/ounces of torque. Such servos are more
appropriate for a model of this size.
We use and can highly recommend either the Airtronics™
RD-6000 Sport system or the Hitec™ Flash 4X system for this
airplane. Both of these affordable and reliable computer radio
systems offer all the features you'll need for this and the many
other R/C aircraft in your future. For reference, this assembly
manual shows the installation of Hitec™ #HS-545BB servos for
aileron, rudder, and elevator controls. A Hitec™ #HS-300
standard servo is used for throttle control. We used a Hitec™
#23873 RCD 3800 Supreme Shift Select receiver and a Hitec™
#57215 Standard Switch Harness. We also used one Hitec™
#54606 36" servo extension for the elevator servo and two Hitec™
#57346 24" servo extensions for the aileron servos. A Hitec™
#57350 Y-Harness to connect the aileron servo leads to the
receiver. All of these items are available separately as after-
market equipment at very affordable prices. See your local hobby
shop for more information.
We like to use Du-Bro after-market servo output arms. These are
exceptionally strong and always seem to be the right shape and
geometry for most of our applications. Du-Bro makes their output
arms to fit any available servos, just use the right part number for
your particular brand of servos. Because our assembly manual
model is using Hitec™ servos, we chose the Du-Bro #675 set.
With an R/C model as large as the Rascal 110 - especially when
using five servos - we always suggest using airborne battery packs
with larger capacity than the typical battery packs supplied with
most radio systems. For example, we used an after-market
1400mAh four-cell battery pack in the model shown in this
assembly manual. Be sure you have a charger capable of properly
charging these larger battery packs.
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R

ENGINE SELECTION:
The Rascal 110 can be powered by a wide range of engine sizes
and types - 2-stroke, 4-stroke (both single and twin cylinder types),
and even smaller gasoline engines. Keep in mind that the airplane
has been designed to be relatively light, producing a good flying
model with a very favorable wing loading. In addition, the design
is fairly aerodynamically clean for a high-wing model. These two
factors result in very good performance when using engines in the
suggested range. Over-powering this model is totally unnecessary
and not recommended.
What are the considerations for choosing a particular type of
engine to use in this model? If you are most comfortable with glow
engines, then a 2 or 4-stroke type may be best for you. Just
remember that these engines, especially the larger engines used
to fly a model of this size, tend to use a lot of fuel in their
operation. Glow engines also produce a lot of exhaust residue that
must be cleaned off after each flying session. If these are not
problems for you, then glow engines, in the recommended sizes,
can certainly be used with good results.
Although, we have not tried it, another interesting engine type to
consider would be twin-cylinder 4-strokes in 1.60 to 1.82 sizes. In
the installation of a twin cylinder engine, the only real issue would
likely be how to install the fiberglass cowl over the two cylinder
heads. In the case of a twin cylinder engine, probably the best way
to deal with the cowl would be to neatly "split" it, from front to rear,
along the centerline of the engine, creating top and bottom cowl
halves. The two halves could then be joined along the seam with
small bolts. Neatly done, this would create fairly easy engine
access and a very realistic look.
Smaller gas engines in the range of 1.3 to 1.6 cubic inches are
also good potential powerplants for the Rascal 110. For example,
the gas engine depicted in this manual is the new F.P.E.1.3 motor,
with electronic ignition. This engine flies the airplane very nicely,
swinging a 16 x 8 prop at about 7400 rpms. With the supplied
450cc (15.2 oz.) fuel tank, flight times are around 23 minutes and
can be even longer with throttle management! Of course, side
benefits from using gas engines are things like greatly reduced
fuel costs, much less field support equipment needed, great
reliability, and the almost total lack of clean up required. At the end
of the day, clean up usually consists of wiping off a few bug strikes
and fingerprints.
COVERING MATERIAL:
Your Rascal 110 ARF has been professionally covered with SIG
AeroKote™. This material is well known for its ease of application,
light weight and consistency of color. If you live in a drier climate,
you may notice that some wrinkles might develop after removing
the covered parts from their plastic bags. This is perfectly normal
in low humidity climates. Your model was built and covered in a
part of the world with relatively high humidity and therefore, the
wood was likely carrying a fair amount of moisture. When exposed
to relatively drier air, the wood typically loses this moisture,
dimensionally "shrinking" in the process. In turn, this may cause
some wrinkles. However, these wrinkles are easy to remove by
just using a hobby type heat iron.
We suggest covering the iron's shoe with a thin cotton cloth, such
as an old T-shirt, to prevent scratching the film. The iron should be
set to 220OF - 250OF (104OC - 121OC). Use the heated iron to
lightly shrink the material - do not press on it. Then, lightly iron the
material back down to the wood. You can also use a hobby-type
heat gun to re-shrink the covering but you must be careful around
seams or color joints. Re-heating seams may cause them to
"creep", making them unsightly. This is especially true with the
Rascal 110 inset trim scheme. Also, be careful with the heat gun
when working around the windshield and side windows - heat will
distort this clear plastic material.
We also suggest that you take a few moments to go over all the
seams with your iron, making sure they are all sealed and well
adhered. This is especially important when you power your model
with a glow engine. Exhaust residue will contaminate a seam that
is not sealed, making it almost impossible to re-seal effectively.
Your Rascal 110 ARF is covered with SIG AeroKote™
#SIGSTL100 White
and
#SIGSTL010 Transparent Red or #SIGSTL050 Transparent Blue
REQUIRED TOOLS:
For proper assembly, we suggest you have the following tools and
materials available:
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A selection of glues - SIG Thin and Thick CA and
SIG Kwik-Set 5-Minute Epoxy
Threadlock Compound, Such as Loctite®Non-Permanent Blue
Silicon Sealer - clear or white tub and shower type
Screwdriver Assortment
Pliers - Needle Nose & Flat Nose
Diagonal Wire Cutters
Small Allen Wrench Assortment
Pin Vise for Small Dia. Drill Bits
Hobby Knife With Sharp #11 Blades
Scissors
Heat Iron and Trim Seal Tool
Masking Tape
Paper Towels
Glass Cleaner, such as SIG Pure Magic Model Cleaner or Windex®
Power Drill With Selection of Bits
Dremel®Tool With Selection of Sanding and Grinding Bits
Soldering Iron and Solder
Large Fuel Tubing
COMPLETE KIT PARTS LIST:
The following is a complete list of all parts contained in this kit.
Before beginning assembly, we suggest that you take the time to
inventory the parts in your kit, using the provided check-off boxes
( ❑ ). Note that the CA type hinges for the ailerons, rudder, and
elevators are in place in each of these parts but are not yet glued
in place. Also, note that the nuts and bolts required to mount your
engine to the motor mounts are not included in this kit and must be
purchased separately.
BASIC AIRCRAFT PARTS:
❑1 each Right Wing Panel With Aileron in Place With
4 CA Hinges - Not Glued Aileron Servo Cable String
Installed - Factory Covered
❑1 each Left Wing Panel With Aileron in Place With
4 CA Hinges - Not Glued Aileron Servo Cable String
Installed - Factory Covered
❑1 each Vertical Fin & Rudder Assembly With
4 Hinges - Not Glued Factory Covered
❑1 each Horizontal Stabilizer & Elevator Assembly With
6 Hinges - Not Glued Factory Covered
❑1 each Fuselage With Clear Plastic Windshield Installed
With 7 Screws. 4 Landing Gear Blind Mounting Nuts
Installed, Installed 1/4-20 Blind Mounting Nuts For
Wing Attachment, 2 Wing Strut Attachment Blind Nuts
Installed, Pull-Pull Exits Installed - Factory Covered
SUB ASSEMBLIES:
❑1 bag Fiberglass Cowl, White:
❑4 each #3 x 10mm PWA Mounting Screws
❑1 bag Fiberglass Wheel Pants - 1 Right, 1 Left - Factory
Painted (Blue/White or Red/White) With Blind
Mounting Nuts Installed (2 per pant) for Mounting
❑1 bag 3”Dia.White SIG Spinner Assembly:
❑1 each Spinner Cone
❑1 each Spinner Backplate
❑1 each Prop Adapter Ring Set
❑4 each #2 x 10mm
Phillips Head Mounting Screws
❑1 bag Molded Clear Plastic Side Window Set
❑1 bag Motor Mount Assembly:
❑2 each
Fiber-Filled Motor Mount Arms - 1 Right, 1 Left
❑4 each M4 x 25mm PWA Mounting Bolts
❑4 each M4 Washers
❑4 each M4 Split Ring Lock Washers
❑4 each M4 Blind Mounting Nuts
❑1 bag Fuel Tank Assembly:
❑1 each 450cc (15.2 oz.) Fuel Tank
❑1 each Fuel Pick-Up “Clunk”- Metal
❑1 each 4-1/2”Length of Fuel Tubing (for glow
engines only)
❑1 each Rubber Fuel Tank Stopper (for glow
engines only)
❑1 each Front Stopper Compression Plate
❑1 each Rear Stopper Compression Plate
❑1 each
M3 x 18mm Phillips Head Compression Bolt
❑3 each 3mm Dia. Aluminum Tube Fuel Lines:
❑1 @ 40mm Long
❑1 @ 50mm Long
❑1 @ 60mm Long
❑1 bag SIG Tailwheel Assembly - Medium:
❑1 each
Main Tailwheel Spring Arm With Steering
Arm & 1-1/4”Dia. Tailwheel Installed
❑1 each Secondary Tailwheel Spring Arm
❑1 each 2-Arm Rudder Steering Plate - Metal
❑2 each #2 X 10mm PWA Steering Plate
Mounting Screws
❑3 each #3 x 15mm PWA Tailwheel Assembly
Mounting Screws
❑2 each Centering Springs
❑1 bag Main Landing Gear Assembly:
❑1 each Landing Gear, 4mm Hardened
Aluminum –Factory Painted White
❑2 each 3-1/2”Dia. Main Wheels - “Lite”-Type
❑2 each M5 x 50mm Hardened Steel Allen Head
Axle Bolts
❑4 each M5 Hex Nuts
❑2 each M5 Split Ring Lock Washers
❑2 each M5 Brass Spacer Sleeves
❑4 each M4 x 20mm PWA Main Landing Gear
Mounting Bolts
❑4 each M4 Split Ring Lock Washers
❑4 each M3 x 12mm Phillips Head Wheel Pant
Mounting Bolts
❑4 each M3 Split Ring Lock Washers
❑1 bag Wing Strut Assemblies:
❑1 each Right Wing Strut, Aluminum, With
Contoured End Caps Installed -
Factory Painted White
❑1 each Left Wing Strut, Aluminum, With
Contoured End Caps Installed -
Factory Painted White
❑4 each M3 x 20mm Allen Head Mounting Bolts
❑4 each M3 Washers
❑4 each M3 Split Ring Lock Washers
❑1 bag Aileron Servo Hatch Assemblies & Wing Bolts:
❑1 each Right Aileron Hatch, Plywood - Factory
Covered
❑1 each Left Aileron Hatch, Plywood - Factory
Covered
❑4 each 10mm x 20mm sq. (3/8" x 3/4" sq.)
Hardwood Aileron Servo Mounting Blocks
❑8 each #3 x 10mm PWA Servo Hatch Mounting
Screws
❑4 each #2 x 8mm PWA Mounting Block Screws
❑2 each
1/4-20 x 1-1/2”Nylon Wing Mounting Bolts
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❑1 bag Miscellaneous Wood Parts:
❑4 each Channeled Balsa Tail Fairings - Factory
Covered
❑1 each 5/16”x 3/4”x 5”Balsa Fuel Tank
Retainer Block
❑1 each 1/8”Lite-Ply Die-Cut Rear Fuel Tank
Former
❑1 bag Main Wing Joiner Parts:
❑1 each 5mm x 26.9mm x 318mm Aluminum
Main Wing Joiner
❑1 each 9.8mm Dia. X 80mm Aluminum Tube -
Rear Wing Locator Tube
❑1 bag Control Surface Hardware Parts:
❑2 each .024”x 47-18”Plastic Coated Pull-Pull
Steel Cable
❑4 each Metal R/C Links, Threaded onto Brass
Pull-Pull Fittings
❑5 each Nylon Control Horns
❑1 each Nylon Control Horn Base
❑4 each #3 x 12mm PWA Aileron Control Horn
Mounting Screws
❑4 each M2 x 20 mm Phillips Head Bolts -
For
Rudder & Elevator Control Horn Mounting
❑4 each M2 Hex Nuts
❑4 each 1.9 mm Dia. x 4.2mm Brass Pull-Pull
Swaging Tubes
❑1 bag Pushrod Assemblies:
❑3 each
#4-40 Metal Pushrods, Threaded One-End:
❑2 each @ 4-3/8”- Aileron Pushrods
❑1 each @ 4-5/8”- Elevator Pushrod
❑3 each #4-40 R/C Links
❑3 each #4-40 Solder Links
❑1 bag Throttle Linkage Package:
❑2 each Metal R/C Links With M2 x 22mm Studs
Threaded in Place
❑1 each 5mm Dia. x 19-3/4" Nylon Tube -
Female Throttle Tube
❑1 each 3.4mm Dia. x 23-1/2" Nylon Throttle
Pushrod Tube
❑1 bag SIG Fueling Valve Mounting Bracket - #SIGSH759
MISCELLANEOUS:
❑1 each RASCAL 110 Assembly Manual
❑1 each RASCAL 110 Printed Instrument Panel
❑1 each RASCAL 110 Decal Sheet - 9" x 27"
NOTE: In addition to the above parts, you will need the following
specific items:
4-Channel Radio System with 5 Servos (4 with 60in/oz torque or better)
Engine
Engine Mounting Bolts for Specific Engine Used
Fuel Tubing (correct size and type for your engine)
OPTIONAL:
Some modelers may want to dress-up their Rascal 110, using
striping tape to accent the trim scheme. We like this look and
decided to use it on our models. We used a good quality striping
tape to frame the color lines, where the transparent color meets
the white covering. This was easy to do and gives a very nice
finished look to the overall model. Because the Rascal 110 is such
a large model, we found that it was much easier to apply the
striping tape to the individual parts before they were assembled.
For a model of this size, we suggest using either 1/8" or 3/16" wide
striping tape. Of course, you can choose your own colors. On our
Rascal 110 models, we thought that either blue or black striping
tape looked good with the transparent red and white version but
other colors may also appeal to you. The transparent blue and
white version looks especially classy with aluminum or silver trim
striping tape. Whatever color you choose, be sure to use good
striping tape, applying it smoothly, avoiding any wrinkles when
working the tape around the corners.
We also used striping tape to create a "frame" around the
windshield. This really adds to the overall realistic look of the
airplane. Give it a try, the finished look is great!
WINGS:
The Rascal 110 wing is designed to be a 2-piece system, joined
by the main aluminum joiner blade at the spar box location and the
rear locating tube. This joiner system has proven itself to be very
tough and easy to use. This wing system is further augmented in
strength with the functional wing struts. The obvious benefit,
especially with a model of this size, is the fact that the wing panels
are much easier to transport and store.
As received in the kit, the wing panels have the ailerons in place
but not yet permanently hinged. Hinging the ailerons will be done
4

in the very first step. To protect the covered parts of your model
from unnecessary damage, we suggest covering your work
surface with protective foam or an old blanket. For the following
steps, you will need two aileron servos, two servo lead extensions
and a Dual ServoY-Harness for your particular radio system. It will
be helpful to have your radio system charged and ready to use.
❑1) Remove the aileron from the wing panel and pull out the
four CA hinges from their slots. Note that the supplied hinges have
a die-cut center slot that can be used to accurately place and
center the hinge equally into both the wing panel and the aileron.
To do this, use an old business card and scissors to cut some
"wedges". These should be wide enough at one end so as not to
pass through the hinge slot cut-out.
Press the four hinges into the slots in the wing panel, up to the
hinge's center slot. Place one of the card wedges into each hinge,
then press the aileron in place onto each exposed hinge half, up
to the card wedges. Slide the aileron left or right to center it within
the wing panel aileron bay. The hinges are now in proper position
for permanent mounting.
Flex the aileron downward, exposing the hinges between the wing
and aileron. Hold the aileron in this flexed position with a piece of
masking tape. For CA hinges, we always recommend using a
fine-tip applicator on the glue bottle, to better control the flow.
Remove the card wedge from one of the hinges and carefully
apply four (4) small drops of thin CA glue to the left and right side
of the exposed hinge center.
Remove the card wedge from the next hinge and again apply four
drops of glue to each exposed hinge edge. Repeat this process
for the remaining hinges. Remove the tape holding the flexed
aileron to the wing panel and flex the aileron in the opposite
direction. Again, use a piece of masking tape to hold the aileron
fully flexed to the wing panel. Turn the wing panel over and apply
four drops of thin CA glue to each exposed edge of each hinge,
exactly as before. Remove the tape holding the aileron, returning
the aileron to its centered position. Because it takes a little time for
the CA glue to fully wick through the surface of the hinge and
surrounding wood, allow at least 10 minutes before flexing the
aileron. Clean-up any excess glue drops, runs, or smears on the
covering with SIG CA Debonder and a paper towel.
After sufficient time has passed, flex the hinged aileron firmly up
and down on the wing panel to create free and easy movement.
Also, pull on the aileron at each hinge location to make sure all four
hinges are securely in place. Repeat this procedure for the
remaining wing panel and aileron.
❑2) Inside the servo bay opening, you will find a short length of
wood with a string tied to it. The string is used to pull the aileron
servo lead through the wing and out of the opening at the bottom,
center of each wing panel - leave the piece of wood in place for
now.
Also, on the bottom of each wing panel, at the center front location,
you will see an oblong opening. This is the aileron servo lead exit
opening. Inside this opening, you will see a piece of wood with a
5
IMPORTANT NOTE: When installing CA type hinges, more
is not better! Applying excess thin CA glue to this type of
hinge does nothing more than stiffen it, potentially causing the
hinge to break. If you have followed these instructions, each
hinge will have a total of 8 small drops of thin CA glue on each
side. This is the correct amount of adhesive.

string tied to it - this is the other end of the string in the aileron
servo bay. Leave the string in place for now.
❑3) From the kit contents, locate the bag containing the two
factory covered aileron servo hatches, the aileron servo mounting
blocks, and the mounting screw hardware. The aileron servos are
now mounted to the factory covered plywood servo hatch covers -
note that there is a left and a right hatch cover, made to fit the left
and right wing panel hatch openings. Begin by installing the
rubber grommets and brass eyelets (supplied with your radio
system), into both aileron servos. Use epoxy or slow CA glue to
mount the 3/8" x 3/4" sq. hardwood servo mounting blocks to the
inside surface of the hatch cover, using the servo itself for spacing.
First, position the servo with its output arm directly over the center
of the hatch's clearance slot and centered in the middle of the "1/2
slot" cut-out. Allow the glue to set. With the servo mounting blocks
now glued in place, remove the servo. Assemble the remaining
servo hatch cover and servo mounting blocks in the same manner.
❑4) From the screws included in the aileron servo hatch bag,
select the four smaller #2 x 8mm PWA mounting block screws.
These screws are used to mechanically secure each servo
mounting block to the servo hatch cover. Use a ruler to find the
approximate center of each block and mark the location onto the
covered side of the aileron servo hatch. With a 1/16" dia. bit, drill
two holes - about 1/4" deep - through each servo hatch and into
the mounting block, at the marks just made. Install and tighten the
four screws in place through both servo hatch covers.
Use the servo mounting screws provided with your radio system to
secure both aileron servos in place to the mounting blocks on each
aileron servo hatch. To avoid possibly splitting the mounting blocks
with the screws, first pre-drill the holes with an under-size drill bit.
❑5) The servo hatch covers, with the servos in place, are now
prepared for mounting into each wing panel. Carefully insert the
servo cable into the servo bay and position the hatch cover into the
recess (if the scrap piece of wood with the retrieval string tied to it
is in the way, break the piece of wood away and lay it in the servo
bay for now). Use small pieces of tape to hold the hatch in position
on the wing panel. Use a 5/64" dia. bit to drill four holes in each
corner of the servo hatch, through the hatch and the corner
plywood mounting gussets, built into the wing. Be careful when
doing this, not to run the drill bit through the top of the wing!
Remove the servo hatch from the wing.
Re-drill the four corner holes in the servo hatch, using a 1/8" dia.
bit to allow clearance for the #3 screws. The aileron hatch covers
are now complete and ready for mounting.
❑6) At this point, it is time to connect the two aileron servos to
the Y-harness and the receiver, in order to set and adjust their
center points. Slip the servo arms onto each servo and place them
together on your workbench, with the servo arms facing each
other. This gives you a good visual reference. Turn your
transmitter on and then the receiver. Re-position the servo arms
on the servo splines, getting them both as close to 90Oas possible.
6

If you are using a computer radio, you can easily center the two
servos through the radio's program for that function.
While the radio is still on, determine if the servos are moving the
correct direction to provide "left" and "right" aileron movements
when installed in the wing panels. For reference, "right" aileron
stick movement on the transmitter should move the right aileron
upward and the left aileron downward. If the direction of travel is
incorrect, reverse the action of the servos through the transmitter.
Doing this may re-center your servos a little. If so, re-center the
servo arms on the servos to 90O. With the servo arms now
centered and the servos moving in the correct direction, install and
tighten the output arm retaining screws into both servos.
❑7) Plug a 24" servo extension lead into each aileron servo
plug and secure the connections with plastic tape. Reach into the
servo bay in the wing panel and pull the scrap piece of wood with
the string tied to it out of the opening. Remove the scrap piece of
wood and tie the end of the string securely onto the end of the
servo lead extension. Double check to be sure you are mounting
the right hatch into the right wing panel.
Reach into the oval hole at the center, front of the wing panel and
remove the scrap piece of wood with the opposite end of the
retrieval string tied to it (tweezers or needle nose pliers might be
handy in doing this). Begin routing the servo extension lead
through the wing by lightly pulling on the inboard end of the string
while feeding the cable extension end into the hole inside of the
servo bay. Continue pulling the lead through the wing until the
servo extension plug is fully out of the exit hole, while seating the
servo hatch in place. Remove the string from the plug and use a
piece of tape to hold the servo lead to the bottom of the wing for
now.
Both aileron servo hatches are now secured in place into each
wing panel, using the eight #3 x 10mm PWA head screws.
❑8) From the kit contents, locate the Control Surface Hardware
Parts bag and the Pushrod Assemblies bag. From the Pushrod
Assemblies bag, remove the following:
❑2 each #4-40 x 4-3/8" Aileron Pushrods, Threaded One-End
❑2 each #4-40 R/C Links
❑2 each #4-40 Solder Links
From the Control Surface Hardware Parts bag, remove the
following:
❑2 each Nylon Control Horns
❑4 each #3 x 12mm PWA Control Horn Mounting Screws
The two #4-40 solder links are now soldered to the unthreaded
ends of each #4-40 x 4-3/8" pushrods. To make this easy, quick
and strong, we highly recommend using Stay-Brite®Silver Solder
and flux - available at most hobby shops. You will also need a good
soldering iron (25W or better) or gun. Lightly sand the unthreaded
end of both pushrods, where the solder link will be positioned. This
tends to make the solder joint even more secure. The secret to
7

good solder joints is using the soldering iron to completely heat
both parts before applying the solder. Apply a little flux to the end
of the pushrod and insert it into the barrel of the R/C solder link
about 3/8" of an inch - no further. Use a weight or a clamp to hold
the parts in this position. Apply another drop or two of flux to the
front and rear of link's barrel and place the soldering iron onto the
solder link, keeping it there until the flux boils. Apply a little solder
to the solder link, allowing it to flow into the barrel. When the joint
looks neat, remove the soldering iron and allow the assembly to
cool. Clean the joint with a rag and fresh water to remove all
excess flux. Prepare both aileron pushrods in this manner.
❑9) Use two pieces of masking tape to secure each end of the
ailerons to the wing panels, holding them in "neutral" position.
Prepare the two nylon control horns by first drilling out the two
mounting holes in the base with a 3/32" dia.bit. This allows the #3
mounting screws to pass more freely.
Connect the aileron pushrod to the servo output arm, using the
solder link. Connect the 4-40 R/C link to the nylon control horn,
using the 2nd hole from the end. Thread the R/C link onto the
pushrod wire until threads show through the R/C link. Place the
base of the nylon control horn onto the front edge of the aileron,
with the pushrod wire visually aligned in parallel with the wing ribs.
The correct mounting location for the control horn is with the front
edge of its base lined up with the edge of the aileron. Thread the
R/C link in or out on the pushrod threads until the base of the
control horn is in the correct position, sitting flat on the aileron.
Once in position, use a pointed object to mark the control horn's
two mounting hole locations into the aileron. Rotate the pushrod
out of the way and use a 1/16" dia.bit to drill two holes - about 1/2"
deep - into the aileron at the marks just made. Remove the control
horn from the R/C link and use two #3 x 12mm PWA screws to
mount the control horn securely to the aileron.
Re-connect the R/C link to the control horn and remove the two
pieces of tape holding the aileron in neutral to the wing panel. Plug
the aileron servo into one of the leads in theY-harness and turn on
the radio system. Make sure the aileron trim lever is set at neutral
on the transmitter. Now, use the transmitter to check the aileron
for neutral. Adjust the R/C link as needed for neutral and test the
action of the aileron with the transmitter. The action should be
smooth with good centering back to neutral. Also again, check that
the aileron is moving in the proper direction for "right" and "left"
aileron commands from the transmitter. If necessary, reverse the
aileron direction from your transmitter and re-adjust the R/C link to
the control horn as required. Repeat this procedure with the
remaining wing panel and aileron.
With the aileron servos installed, centered, and all adjustments
made to the linkages, it's good practice to secure the R/C links to
the control horns and servo output arms. Cut four short lengths -
about 1/4" or so - of medium fuel tubing. Slip a piece of tubing over
each R/C link, onto the two arms. Re-attach the R/C link to the
control horn and output arm and then, slide the tubing forward to
the connection. This ensures that the R/C links cannot be easily
dislodged from these important linkages.
With the exception of the decals, the wings are now complete and
ready to use. Set them aside for now.
FUEL TANK ASSEMBLY:
From the kit contents, locate the Fuel Tank Assembly bag. The
450cc (15.2 oz.) fuel tank will now be assembled. We suggest
using a simple two-line fuel delivery system in this airplane. One
fuel line is connected to the fuel pick-up or "clunk" line and the
engine's carburetor. If you are not using a fueling valve, this same
line is used to fill the tank. The second fuel line is the overflow line
for use when filling the tank. After filling the tank, this same fuel
line is then connected to the engine's muffler pressure nipple to
provide manifold pressure to the tank. Note that the rubber
stopper for the tank has two holes all the way through it. Use these
two holes for the two aluminum fuel lines.
8

Also, note that the correct position for the fuel tank, mounted inside
of the fuselage, is with the off-center stopper hole toward the top.
Gently bend the aluminum overflow tube upward to just reach, (but
not touch), the top of the tank on the inside. Adjust the length of
the internal silicon tubing to allow free movement of the fuel pick-
up weight inside the tank, at its rear. Insert the stopper assembly
into the neck of the tank, firmly seating the stopper. Slip short
lengths of silicon fuel tubing over the two exposed aluminum fuel
lines and identify each of them as "vent" and "carb" with small
pieces of tape. This helps later when connecting the fuel lines to
the proper locations.
Secure the stopper assembly in the tank by tightening the
compression bolt in the center of the stopper assembly. Tighten
this bolt firmly, causing the rubber stopper to expand in the tank's
hole, creating a secure seal around the neck of the tank.
FUEL TANK FOR GASOLINE ENGINES:
If you plan to use a gasoline engine in your Rascal 110, then you
must assemble your fuel tank, using gas compatible parts.
Because gasoline attacks and destroys the typical silicon fuel
tubing used for glow engines, as well as the rubber stoppers used
in most R/C fuel tanks, these items must be replaced with
gasoline-compatible parts. Sullivan Products makes a neat
"Gasoline/Diesel" Fuel Tank Conversion Kit (P/N #484) for this
very purpose. This little package includes a gas compatible
stopper, Tygon fuel pick-up tubing and molded nylon front and rear
compression plates. Du-Bro Products, also, makes a replacement
tank stopper for gasoline use (P/N #400) and Tygon fuel line (P/N
#799). Note that the Rascal 110 fuel tank is usable with either the
Sullivan or Du-Bro replacement stoppers. Remember to use only
gas-compatible fuel tubing for gasoline engines, such as Tygon -
sold by both Du-Bro and Sullivan.
The fuel tank body itself is gas compatible and can be assembled
in the same way as described earlier, using a replacement gas
stopper and Tygon fuel lines.
ENGINE AND FUEL TANK INSTALLATION:
This assembly phase requires some custom installation work,
based on the particular engine size and type that you've chosen
for your Rascal 110. Note that the fuselage has been built with the
correct right and down thrust adjustments already incorporated
into the firewall. These are:
2ORight Thrust
2.5ODown Thrust
In addition, true vertical and horizontal centerlines, for placement
of the engine motor mounts, are marked on the firewall. Centering
your engine, using these locators, allows the cowl to fit almost
perfectly at the front. Note that the vertical centerline is off-center
to the left, allowing for the built-in right thrust. Of course, some
"fudging" with the center lines can be done to fit your engine, as
long as it's not excessive.
The following engine installation instructions will cover both
4-stroke and gasoline engines. Installing a 2-stroke glow engine in
this model is similar in concept to the installation of 4-strokes, with
the only real differences being the location of the throttle pushrod
and the many choices for mufflers. Because it's impossible to
cover every engine that might fit into these three groups, you will
have to decide for yourself if your particular engine is suitable for
this model and if it can be made to fit.
Mufflers must also be considered for any engine installation. The
different types, sizes, and configurations of commercially available
mufflers is huge. In the Rascal 110, the most ideal choice for an
engine/muffler set-up would be an inverted engine with a Pitts-
style muffler system. This keeps the nose "clean" with only the
bottom of the cowl having to be opened for cooling. Some
9

modelers may disagree and feel that a side mounted, or even an
upright engine installation would be preferable. For this reason,
the Rascal 110 fuselage comes with a clean firewall, without any
pre-drilled motor-mount holes. This allows you to choose the best
engine and muffler installation for your airplane.
Obviously, whatever engine you use, it must be able to fit within the
cowl and must have a mounting base, (motor mount), "footprint"
that will fit onto the firewall. To assist you in planning for your
choice of engine and its installation, the following photos and
dimensions may be helpful.
Photo #1 shows a cut-away cowl mounted to the fuselage. As you
can see, there is a maximum distance of about 6" from the front
face of the firewall to the front edge of the cowl. This means that
the combined distance from the back surface of the motor mounts
to the backplate surface of the spinner can be as far as 5-7/8", still
leaving a 1/8" gap between the front of the cowl and the back of
the spinner.
Photo #2 shows a side view of the fuselage with two vertical
reference lines drawn on its side, just behind the firewall location.
These two lines represent the furthest forward that the cowl can be
mounted (the forward line) and the furthest back it can be mounted
(the rear line). As you can see, the cowl can be positioned, front
to rear, by as much as 1/2".
Photo #3 shows the front face of the firewall with the vertical and
horizontal centerlines. These two lines represent the correct
centered position of your engine when it is mounted to the firewall.
These lines are to be used for measurement reference.
4-STROKE ENGINES:
The following steps will show the installation of a Saito 1.50 four-
cycle engine. The engine will be mounted in the inverted position.
To make the initial fitting of the engine to the mounts more
convenient, remove the muffler and header pipe for now. We also
suggest that you remove the screws holding the windshield in
place to the fuselage and set these parts aside for now.
❑1) From the kit contents, locate the Motor Mount Assembly
bag. In addition, you will need the engine mounting bolts (not
included) for your particular engine. In the case of the Saito 1.50,
we used 8-32 Allen Head bolts with 8-32 lock nuts for this purpose.
The first step is to properly mount the engine itself to the motor
mount arms. A very easy and accurate way to do this is to
temporarily mount the two motor mount arms onto a scrap piece
of 1/4" plywood, with the correct spacing for your engine. Doing
this ensures that the backfaces of both mounts are truly flat in
10
Photo #1
Photo #2
Photo #3
IMPORTANT NOTES:
1) The motor mounts provided with the Rascal 110 ARF kit
are of excellent quality and designed to work well with 2-stroke
engines up to 1.20 displacement and 4-stroke engines up to
1.50 displacement. DO NOT use any engine larger than these
with these motor mounts. Replace the mounts with engine
mounts designed specifically for larger engines.
2) DO NOT mount your engine on these motor mounts by
drilling and tapping them for bolts or screws! These mounts
should be drilled for clearance of the engine mounting bolts and
the engine secured to the mount arms with bolts, washers, and
lock nuts. Tapping threads into these motor mount arms may
weaken them, potentially causing them to fail.
6”
1/2”

relationship to each other and the engine, when it is eventually
mounted in place to the firewall.
Prepare the scrap piece of plywood with accurate horizontal and
vertical centerlines, using a pencil and a triangle. Next, measure
the width of your engine case and draw those locations onto the
scrap piece of wood, using the centerline for the measurements.
Note that the two motor mount arms have oblong mounting holes.
This allows you to move either one or both of the arms left or right
as needed. When drilling the mounting holes, use the center of the
oblong holes to allow a little movement in either direction. Drill the
four motor mount holes through the plywood, using a 3/16" dia.bit.
Install the motor mount arms to the piece of plywood, using the
blind nuts, bolts and washers provided. Just hand-tighten the bolts
enough to hold the arms in place.
Slide the motor mount arms left or right to align them accurately to
each side of the vertical centerline. Once in position, use a
screwdriver to temporarily tighten the bolts just enough to lock the
arms in place. Place the engine onto the motor mount arms.
Using a ruler, adjust the engine on the mounts to locate the face
of its prop hub at 5-15/16" from the face of the scrap piece of
plywood. Hold the engine in this position and use a drill bit in each
of the engine's mounting lug holes, marking their centered
positions onto the motor mount arms. Remove the engine and
remove the motor mount arms from the piece of plywood.
❑2)
The bolt holes are now drilled through the two motor mount
arms. These four holes should be clearance holes for the bolts you
intend to use. For example, using the Saito 1.50 engine shown
here, we used 8-32 x 1-1/2" socket head bolts. For 8-32 bolts, we
used a #19 (.166) bit to drill the proper clearance holes. If you are
careful, it may be possible to drill these holes by hand. However, we
suggest using a drill press to ensure that these holes are correctly
placed and drilled truly perpendicular to the motor mount arms.
❑3) The scrap piece of plywood used to mount the engine has
now become a pattern that is used to accurately locate the four
required mounting holes onto the firewall. Hold the pattern against
the firewall and line-up its horizontal and vertical centerlines with
those on the firewall. Hold the pattern in place and use a 3/16" dia.
bit, twisting it a few times, marking the four hole locations onto the
firewall. Remove the pattern and use the same bit and a power
drill to make the four holes through the firewall, at the marks just
made.
❑4) The four M4 Blind Mounting Nuts are now installed into the
backside of the firewall. To do this, you will have to reach into the
nose compartment, through the top of the fuselage, using your
fingers to feel for the hole. This can be made a lot easier by
inserting a length of 1/8" dowel (7" or 8") through the hole from the
firewall side. When you can see the end of the dowel in the
fuselage, slip one of the blind nuts onto to it and then, pull the
dowel back out of the hole while holding the nut on the dowel from
the inside. This will locate the blind nut to the back side of the hole
every time.
Hold the nut against the firewall with your finger and use one of the
M4 bolts to engage its threads from the front of the firewall. Thread
the bolt all the way in place. Use a screwdriver to tighten the bolt,
"pulling" the barrel of the blind nut fully into the back side of the
firewall, (we ran our bolts through the holes in the plywood pattern
11

first in order to avoid "dimpling" the face of the firewall with the bolt
head).
If desired, the blind mounting nuts can be permanently adhered to
the backside of the firewall by using a little 5-minute epoxy on your
finger to spread the glue around the outside edges of each nut. Do
not get glue into the threaded centers.
❑5) Temporarily mount the engine to the two motor mount arms,
using your own hardware (again, we suggest socket head
hardened steel bolts with lock nuts, as shown). Because the
engine will have to be removed in the following steps, don't tighten
the bolts yet - just enough to get the engine sitting firmly in place
on the motor mount arms.
Apply a little threadlock compound to each of the M4 x 25mm
mounting bolts. Slip a split ring washer and a M4 washer onto
each bolt. Hold the engine/motor mount assembly in place to the
firewall and install each bolt in place to hold the assembly to the
firewall. Allow enough play in the bolts to be able to slide the motor
mount arms left or right, as needed, to center the motor mount
bases to the firewall. When everything looks about right, firmly
tighten the bolts.
❑6) From the kit contents, locate the bag containing the
Fiberglass Cowl and mounting screws. The cowl is now prepared
to fit in place over the engine and onto the cowl. In the case of our
inverted engine, this requires that the bottom of the cowl be
opened to clear the engine head and to provide adequate cooling.
Always remember to wear a face mask and eye protection when
working with and cutting fiberglass parts.
Begin by placing the cowl on a flat surface, with the nose up. Use
a ruler and a pencil or non-permanent marker pen to place a mark
at the bottom center. Use a 90Otriangle to then make a vertical
line straight up the middle of the cowl bottom. This line becomes
the reference line for the required opening.
Since the overall width of
the Saito 1.50, at the
head, is about 2-1/4", we
know that the opening
must be at least that wide.
When creating this
opening, the idea is to
neatly expose as much
cooling air to the cylinder
head as possible. As
shown, we used a width
of 3-1/2" at the back of the
cowl, tapering up to 2-1/2"
wide at the top of the
opening. After making
the measurements, connect the marks with a non-permanent pen
and a flexible straight edge, such as a strip of balsa. At the top of
the opening there are two corners. Use a circle guide to draw
radiuses at these two corners.
With the outline of the
opening now drawn onto
the cowl, the actual
opening is now made. To
do this neatly and quickly,
we suggest using a
Dremel®Tool. Start with a
carbide cut-off wheel to
first remove the major
piece of fiberglass within
the outline.
12
TOOLS 101:
We've all heard stories about "inferior foreign metric hardware".
Unfortunately, much of this bias tends to come from individuals
who use the wrong tools to do the job! For example, there are
many types of Phillips screwdriver bits. Use too small of a
screwdriver bit in a Phillips head bolt and you will almost always
roach out the head. When working with Phillips head hardware,
choose a screwdriver that completely fits and fills the Phillips
head openings. Likewise, oversized screwdriver bits will also
ruin the bolt head. Choose your tools with care, and use them
the way they were intended.

Follow this by using a drum-sanding bit to smooth the edges and
contour the corner radiuses. Be careful to keep the edges as
smooth and uniform as possible, using the lines as a guide. Use
a sanding block with 220-grit paper to sand the straight edges
smooth. Finally, use a piece of 220 sandpaper to lightly sand all of
the edges, making them completely smooth. Clean the cowl,
removing all dust and wipe off any remaining ink lines with alcohol.
The cowl should now be able to fit over the engine and onto the
front of the fuselage.
❑7) The cowl can now be mounted to the fuselage. To do this
as accurately as possible, it is helpful to have the spinner
backplate in position on the engine. From the kit contents, locate
the bag containing the Spinner Assembly. Remove the spinner
backplate and the four, molded shaft adapter rings from the
package. The center hole in backplate can be shimmed to fit many
engine prop shafts. However, our Saito 1.50 has a very large shaft
diameter - even larger than the hole in the backplate. This requires
that the hole be opened up with a drill to fit on the shaft. To do this
accurately, we used a drill press. Once the backplate fits onto the
engine, the cowl can be mounted.
Slide the cowl in place over the fuselage and then, place the
backplate onto the engine prop shaft. This gives you good visual
reference for centering the cowl to the spinner. We suggest
leaving a gap of anywhere from 1/8" - 1/4" between the front of the
cowl and the backplate. Hold the cowl tightly in position and use a
non-permanent marker pen or pointed punch to mark the four
mounting hole locations on the fuselage sides, through the pre-
drilled holes in the cowl. Remove the cowl.
Use a 1/16" dia.bit to drill guide holes into the fuselage, about 1/4"
deep. Use the four #3 x 10mm PWA screws to mount the cowl to
the fuselage. Do not over-tighten these screws at this time.
Remove the screws and the cowl, for now.
❑8) The cowl is now prepared to clear the engine muffler. As
mentioned earlier, R/C engine muffler shapes and types are all
different and therefore, each engine/muffler installation tends to be
one of a kind. For example, our Saito 1.50 has a muffler manifold
shape and location that does not allow the muffler to exit the cowl
without interfering with the front of the fuselage. This fact means
that a small part of the front of the fuselage must be relieved to
allow muffler clearance. A flexible manifold tube and a Pitts-style
muffler may work to eliminate this issue but we chose to work with
the stock engine set-up. Here's how we did it.
With the engine in place on the mounts, lay the fuselage on its
side, manifold side up. Rotate the manifold on the engine head to
find the location on the fuselage that will require the least amount
of relief to allow the muffler to be mounted. In our case, this was
the lower, left side. Use a circle guide to determine the diameter
of the muffler (our Saito muffler measured just about 1-1/8" in
diameter). We used a non-permanent marker pen to mark the
fuselage with the approximate exit location for the muffler body,
using the next size up circle guide diameter - 1-1/4". This partial
circle mark becomes the guide for the initial relief of the fuselage
for muffler clearance.
Remove the engine from the motor mounts. Use a hobby knife and
#11 blade to cut away the covering material within the area to be
sanded. We used a scrap length of 1-1/4" dowel (aluminum tubing
or a scrap piece of pipe would also work just as well) and wrapped
it with 80 grit sandpaper. We, then, sanded the required channel,
at the same approximate angle that the muffler would sit on the
engine. Believe it or not, we sanded this relief channel perfectly
the first time! The channel was approximately 1/8" larger in
diameter than the muffler body, which is just about perfect for
clearance. Place the engine, with the manifold and muffler loosely
in place, back on the mounts to check your work. Make any
adjustments needed to improve the channel. When it looks right,
remove the engine and lightly sand the finished channel with 220
sandpaper.
13

The open wood in the channel needs to be filled and fuel proofed.
Use a little 5-minute epoxy to do this, smoothing it with your finger.
When the glue sets, sand it smooth with 220 sandpaper.
❑9) The fiberglass cowl must now be relieved to match the
muffler exit channel in the fuselage. To do this accurately, draw
two parallel "witness" lines onto the fuselage side with a non-
permanent marker pen. The top line is the top of the channel and
the bottom line is the bottom of the channel. Mount the cowl to the
fuselage and use a straight edge to transfer the witness lines onto
the cowl. With the cowl still in place, use a flashlight illuminate the
inside of the cowl at the sanded groove area. This will show the
outline of the channel on the cowl. Use the marker pen to lightly
outline the edge of the channel. Use a circle guide to complete the
circle onto the cowl and remove it from the fuselage.
Use a Dremel®Tool with a drum-sanding bit to clear out the cowl,
within the marks just made. Continue to trial fit the cowl in place
to the fuselage, refining the cowl opening until it fits in place with a
uniform 1/8" of clearance all the way around the muffler. With the
openings made, use a wrench to tighten the manifold nut, securing
the manifold in final position to the engine head. Likewise, tighten
the muffler nut, locking it in place to the manifold.
❑10) A music wire needle valve extension is now made to allow
adjustment of the high-end needle from outside the cowl. Most
engines come with needle valves that have set screws, used for
this purpose. The Saito has such a setscrew, with a center hole
diameter for the extension that's just about 1/16". We put a short
length of 1/16" dia. music wire into the needle valve hole and
tightened the setscrew. The needle valve is then threaded back in
place onto the carburetor, all the way. Place a straight edge
against the fuselage side at the nose, intersecting the piece of
wire. Mark this point on the wire with a marker pen. Remove the
needle valve and wire from the engine and remove the wire from
the needle valve. Cut the wire to length at the mark just made.
Sharpen one end of this wire to a point, using a Dremel®Tool and
a carbide cut-off wheel. Insert the unsharpened end of the wire
back into the needle valve and tighten the setscrew.
Thread the needle valve back onto the carburetor, all the way.
Mount the cowl to the fuselage. Turn the fuselage upside down on
your work surface. Use a pair of needle nose pliers or a hemostat
to begin unthreading the needle valve. As the needle turns, the
sharpened point on the wire will contact the inside of the cowl.
Hold a scrap piece of plywood against the outside of the cowl, over
the pointed wire, and continue unthreading the needle valve.
Within a few turns, the wire point will begin to show on the outside
of the cowl, as a dimple. When you can see this mark, stop turning
the needle and remove the cowl. Use a 3/32" dia. bit to drill a hole
through the cowl at the dimple mark. Remove and discard the
pointed piece of music wire from the needle valve. Make sure the
needle valve set screw is aligned to allow access to it when the
cowl is in place.
Cut a new length of 1/16" music wire, about 4" long. Put the cowl
back on the fuselage and insert one end of the wire through the
cowl and into the hole in the needle valve. Tighten the setscrew
enough to hold the wire. Use a marker pen to mark the wire,
outside of the cowl, about 1/8" away from its surface. Remove the
wire from the needle valve and cowl. Use pliers to make a 90O
bend at the mark just made. Trim the excess wire from the bent
14

end, leaving about 3/8". Insert the wire back into the cowl and
needle valve and tighten the setscrew. You should now have a
neat looking, perfectly aligned needle valve extension.
OPTIONAL:
❑11) Because of the inverted position of the engine in our Rascal
110, we wanted to make the fueling and de-fueling process as
simple as possible. The installation and use of a fueling valve
completely solves all these issues. To do this on our Rascal 110
models, we installed a Du-Bro #334 Kwik-Fill Fueling Valve (the
#334 valve is for use with glow fuel) onto the firewall in the engine
compartment. DO NOT mount the fueling valve directly to the
fiberglass cowl. Doing so will ultimately cause damage to the
fiberglass.
To make the mounting and
positioning of the fueling valve
easy, we have included a SIG
Fueling Valve Mounting Bracket
part (#SIGSH759) in your kit.
This bracket allows the Du-Bro
valve to be mounted anywhere
on the firewall that is most
convenient for your particular
engine installation. This fueling
system has proven to be
convenient and simple and only
requires the two basic tank fuel
lines to function.
We mounted our fueling valve on the firewall, pointed straight
down through the bottom cowl opening. Be sure to locate the
bracket far enough off center on the firewall to allow your
glow driver to fit onto the glowplug. Mounting the bracket in
this position eliminates the need for another hole in the cowl and
hides it from view.
❑12) With the engine temporarily back on the mounts, the
required hole for the throttle tube is marked onto the face of the
15
DETAILS, DETAILS.....
We wanted to provide our cowl with a few simple surface details
to make it more believable. We decided to add a few "panel"
lines and some rivets to add the detail we were looking for. To
do this we first carefully wet-sanded the entire cowl with #600
wet/dry sandpaper. After drying the cowl completely, we used
1/16" striping tape to create the panel lines and 1/4" wide
striping tape to fashion the four "latches". We mixed some
5-minute epoxy and used the sharpened end of a dowel to add
the rivets. To do this, lightly dip the dowel into the epoxy and
place a single "dot" of glue in the desired location, repeating the
process for the rest of the rivets.
After these details were added, we painted the cowl and even
the mounting screws, using a good quality, fuel proof white
paint. The paint makes the surface details stand out nicely and
after drying, the cowl is ready to mount.

firewall. Visually line-up the throttle arm, at the point where it will
be driven by the throttle pushrod, straight back to the firewall. Use
a pencil to mark this location on the firewall.
The throttle tube hole is easier to drill with the engine out of the
way, so remove it from the mounts. Use a power drill with a 13/64"
dia. bit to drill the hole through the firewall. From the kit contents,
locate the Throttle Linkage bag. Remove the 5mm x 19-3/4"
female throttle tube and the 3.4mm x 23-1/2" inner nylon throttle
pushrod. The outer tube must now be inserted into the fuselage,
through the hole in the firewall. It is then fed through the second
pre-drilled hole in the first former, through the pre-drilled hole in the
second tilted cabin former and finally, through the pre-drilled hole
in the third cabin former and into the servo bay. These holes have
been pre-drilled on both sides of the fuselage formers to
accommodate different engines and carburetors.
To make this fairly easy, first feed the inner nylon throttle pushrod
through these same holes, beginning in the servo bay. Feed the
pushrod through each hole, reaching into the fuselage with your
hand, guiding the pushrod through each hole. When the pushrod
emerges from the firewall, slide the outer pushrod tube over it and
begin feeding the tube back through the same holes. As you
proceed, twist the tube with your fingers, helping it to center itself
and pass through. When the end of the tube is into the servo bay,
it's in place. Remove the inner pushrod tube.
❑13) Four-stroke engines all have crankcase breather fittings.
Our Saito has this nipple fitting in the rear of the crankcase. Attach
a 7" or so length of fuel tubing to this fitting. Using your mounting
hardware, mount the engine - with the muffler and manifold firmly
in place - permanently to the motor mount arms.
The inner throttle pushrod is now prepared for connection to the
engine throttle arm. From the Throttle Linkage bag, locate one of
the R/C links with an M2 x 22m stud threaded in place. Unthread
the stud from the R/C link. The stud is now threaded into one end
of the inner nylon throttle pushrod. A neat way to do this is to use
an electric drill. Lightly chuck the stud about halfway into the drill
and holding the nylon pushrod firmly, thread the stud in place with
the drill - simple, neat, and quick!
Thread the R/C link onto the end of the stud and insert the other
end of the pushrod into the tube in the firewall. The connection can
now be made to the throttle arm. The throttle arm location on our
Saito was fairly close to the firewall which caused our linkage to be
slightly too long. We solved this by cutting off a little (3/32" or so)
of the threaded barrel at the rear of the R/C link, using a carbide
cut off wheel. Leave the pushrod connected to the engine for now.
❑14) The assembled fuel tank is now installed. From the kit
contents locate the Miscellaneous Wood Parts bag. For this step
you will need the die-cut 1/8" lite-ply Rear Fuel Tank Former and
the 5/16" x 3/4" x 5" balsa fuel tank retainer, as well as the fuel
tank. In addition, have your fuel tubing ready and some silicon
sealer.
Cut two 8" or so lengths of fuel tubing and place one length onto
each of the two fuel tank lines. Fish a length of string through the
round fuel tank hole in the firewall, through the tank compartment
and into the cabin area. The string will be used to direct the tank
and fuel tubing into the tank compartment. Tie the end of the
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string at the cabin area firmly to the ends of the two fuel lines.
Apply a generous bead of silicon sealer around the neck of the fuel
tank. Remember that the correct orientation of the fuel tank within
the fuselage is with the neck of the tank "up" when viewed from the
front. Insert the tank into the fuselage from the cabin area, lightly
pulling the string from the front and guiding the tank into place
from the rear. Pull the fuel lines through the hole in the firewall and
press the tank firmly into the round hole. We used a scrap piece
of sponge rubber to temporarily hold the tank in this position.
Apply a bead of glue (thick CA glue works well here) to each side
of the 1/8" lite-ply fuel tank former, where it will contact the sides
of the second fuselage former. Fit the former in place through the
cabin and onto the rear of the fuel tank. Press it firmly against the
fuselage former.
The 5/16" x 3/4" x 5" balsa tank retainer is now installed against
the back of the tank, between the fuselage sides. Position the
retainer piece squarely and apply a few drops of CA glue to hold it
in place. If the tank should ever need to be removed, the retainer
can be easily broken free allowing the tank to be slid back out.
Remove the scrap piece of foam rubber supporting the tank and
connect the fuel lines to the fueling valve and engine.
❑15) We made a simple thin sheet metal bracket to attach and
direct the fuel tubing coming from the engine drain fitting, to the
firewall. We left about 1/2" or so of this tubing hanging below the
firewall. The four cowl mounting screw holes in the fuselage sides,
at the nose, should now be "hardened". Place a couple of drops
of thin CA glue into each screw hole. This hardens the threads and
also, serves to make these holes fuel-resistant. The cowl will be
final-mounted to the fuselage in the Spinner Assembly section.
This completes the installation of your 4-stroke engine. Skip the
GASOLINE ENGINES section, moving to the FUSELAGE
PREPARATION & SERVO INSTALLATION instructions.
GASOLINE ENGINES:
The Rascal 110 is a good subject for smaller gasoline engine
power. There are several such engines on the market, including
the RCS 1.40 and other similar sized motors. Keep in mind that
there are some considerations when choosing a gas engine for
this model. One of these is the required width of the mounting bolt
pattern on the firewall and the firewall spacer needed to move the
engine forward from the face of the firewall, toward the front of the
cowl. Since it is likely a given that gasoline engines used in this
model will be installed inverted, then another consideration is the
engine's muffler. The ideal gas engine set-up would be an inverted
installation with a Pitts-style muffler contained within the cowl.
The gas engine we used for our Rascal 110 is the new F.P.E. 1.3
with electronic ignition. This engine fulfilled all of our installation
and mounting criteria, as well as having a nice Pitts-style muffler.
This engine produces very good power, turning a 16 x 8 prop at
7400 rpm. This airplane/power combination has produced a
consistently "fun" airplane to operate and fly. Making the use of
this engine even easier is the fact that SIG produces laser-cut
engine spacer/mounts that are ready to use. These are cut from
rock-hard 1/4" plywood and the package contains two spacers.
For our F.P.E. 1.3 installation, we needed 1" of spacing and
therefore used four of these spacers. For reference, the part
number for these spacers is SIGSH806.
Another important consideration, when setting up this or any
gas engine powered model, is the adequate separation of the
radio system components from the engine's ignition system
components. The general rule of thumb states that there should
be at least 12" of separation between these two systems. This
means everything; switches, battery packs, all wiring, etc. The
reason for this separation is that the engine's ignition system may
"talk" to the radio system via RF (radio frequency) emissions, thus
causing interference.
In the real world, 12" of separation may not always be possible. In
our gas powered Rascal 110 models, we had no problem
separating the two systems by 11-1/2" - the two closest
components being the two switches (one for the ignition system
and one for the radio system). This component separation,
coupled with a good radio system and the engine's
RF-suppression sparkplug, has made our Rascal 110's "glitch"
free. For reference, we have always flown our gas powered Rascal
110 models with FM radio systems, with no problems. PCM radio
systems are said to be more selective and therefore more resistant
to RF emissions.
❑1) If you've chosen a different make of gas engine for your
airplane, you'll first have to create a firewall spacer/mount from
hardwood or 1/4" plywood. The engine needs to be mounted with
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its propeller backplate at a distance of 5-15/16" from the front face
of the firewall. This distance is required to mount the cowl and still
have about 1/8" - 1/4" clearance between the back of the spinner
and the front of the cowl. Most gas engines in the size range used
on this airplane are shorter in overall length (including the muffler)
than this figure. Therefore, you will need to carefully measure the
length of your engine, from the face of its prop support, back to the
rearmost part. The overall engine length is subtracted from the
required 5-15/16" figure. The resulting number represents the
distance that the engine must be spaced and mounted from the
face of the firewall.
The simplest way to create a good spacer is to trace the outline of
the engine's mounting backplate (including the mounting bolt
locations) directly onto a piece of hardwood that is of the correct
thickness. Using a jigsaw, this outline is cut out. Next, the spacer
is drilled for clearance holes for the engine mounting bolts (for 8-
32 bolts this would be an 11/64" drill bit). Since this spacer will
cover the fuel tank neck at the firewall, a hole must be cut from the
center of the spacer, taking out as much material as possible to
clear the tank lines. The finished spacer is then epoxied to the
firewall in the centered position, using the horizontal and vertical
centerlines on the firewall for reference.
With the spacer now in place on the firewall, clearance holes for
the engine mounting bolts are drilled through the firewall. The
appropriate size blind mounting nuts are then installed into the
back face of the firewall - in the case of our F.P.E. 1.3 engine, we
used 8-32 hardware. These are installed using the same method
as described earlier in Step #4, in the 4-STROKE ENGINE
installation section.
❑2) The fuel tank, assembled using gas-compatible Tygon
tubing for the fuel pick-up and a gas-compatible stopper, is now
installed into the fuselage. The installation of the tank is covered
in Step #14, in the 4-STROKE ENGINE section and is exactly the
same for the gas version.
❑3) In order to route the two required fuel lines from the tank to
the engine and fuel filling valve, two appropriate sized holes must
be drilled through the sides of the wood engine spacer, at the
correct locations. The fuel lines are then fitted onto the tank fuel
tubes and routed out of the two holes. The "vent" or overflow line
will hang straight down. We made a simple sheet metal bracket to
anchor this line to the firewall, keeping it away from the muffler.
The fuel pick-up line goes directly to the fuel valve.
❑4) If your engine has a Pitt's style muffler, it will probably
require exhaust extensions to clear the firewall at the bottom of the
fuselage. In the case of our F.P.E. 1.3, we used two 2-1/2" lengths
of K&S brass tubing, 17/32" in diameter (K&S #140). This tubing
had the perfect inside diameter to slip over the F.P.E. Pitts muffler.
We cut the exhaust end of each piece of tubing a slight angle to
vector the exhaust towards the rear of the fuselage. To hold these
two exhaust extensions in place, we used two small automotive
type metal hose clamps.
In order to allow the exhaust extensions to be clamped in place, it
is necessary to first "slice" them at one end, in four places. These
slices are made with a Dremel®Tool and a carbide cut-off wheel.
Make each slice about 3/8" deep.
Remove any burrs that may be in the way and slide the tubes -
sliced ends first - onto the muffler's exhaust tubes. Position the
tubes at the same length with each other and use the hose clamps
to secure them firmly in place.
❑5) Our F.P.E. engine operates with an electronic ignition. This
feature eliminates a great deal of bulk (weight) from its
construction and makes for a much easier starting and smoother
running engine. The ignition module is a small separate unit that
must be installed in the nose of the fuselage, behind the firewall.
It must be close enough to the engine to allow the wiring to reach.
The module wiring consists of the spark plug lead, the ground
wire, the electronic ignition module connection to the prop hub
sensor, and the battery pack lead. The battery pack lead stays in
18

the fuselage and will be connected to a separate battery pack,
used to power the system.
The most convenient location for this module in our Rascal 110
installation was at the lower right corner of the fuselage, just
behind the firewall. We opened an oblong hole in the firewall at
this location to route the wiring through to the engine. The ignition
module is wrapped tightly in foam and wedged in place against the
firewall, inside the nose.
❑6) The engine, with the muffler in place, should now be ready
to mount, using your own hardware. We suggest using hardened
steel socket head bolts of the correct length with lock washers. In
the case of our F.P.E. 1.3 engine, we used four 8-32 x 1-11/16"
bolts. The bolts must be long enough to go through the blind
mounting nuts, but no further. The bolt ends must not contact the
fuel tank body. If your bolts are too long, use a carbide cut-off
wheel to shorten them to the correct length. Mount the engine to
the firewall, but do not tighten the bolts yet.
❑7) The throttle linkage is now assembled and installed. With
gas engines, it is especially important to avoid any metal-to-metal
connections. This is because such connections may cause
unwanted RF (radio frequency) "noise". Such RF noise can
interfere with the radio system. It is, therefore, important to use the
provided nylon pushrod, with a nylon fitting at the engine's throttle
arm. For this throttle arm connection, we recommend using a
Du-Bro #181 2-56 Threaded Ball Link. This package contains
everything needed to make the proper throttle pushrod connection
to the engine. Most gas engines used for R/C model aircraft, are
equipped with Walbro carburetors and most of these engines
have the carburetor mounted to the side of the cylinder head, at
non-linear angles. The ball-link throttle arm connection solves this
problem.
If the throttle arm on your engine is spring loaded, either remove
the spring or cut it from the throttle arm with wire cutters. Choose
a location on the throttle arm that will best provide fore and aft
linear movement from the servo. This is the location to mount the
ball link fitting. Drill the throttle arm to accept the ball link and
mount it in place. Note that some throttle arm locations and
shapes may require an extension that must first be attached to the
primary carburetor throttle arm. If this is the case with your engine,
make and attach the extension with the ball link fitting in place.
Use a pencil to mark the firewall at the point where the throttle
pushrod will be placed. Remove the engine from the firewall and
use a 13/64" dia. drill bit to make a hole through the firewall at the
mark just made. The nylon throttle pushrod housing tube is now
installed. To do this, follow the instructions provided in Step 12 in
the 4-Stroke Engine section to install this tube. After the outer
pushrod housing tube is in place, remount the engine permanently
in place to the firewall. Be sure to use thread lock compound on
the bolt threads. Attach the wiring leads to the engine.
❑8) The inner nylon throttle pushrod is now prepared. Use a
carbide cut-off wheel to remove the 2-56 x 3/8”threaded section of
the Du-Bro brass coupler fitting. Chuck this threaded section into
your power drill, leaving half of its length exposed, and thread it
into one end of the nylon throttle tube. Thread the nylon ball link
fitting onto the remainder of the exposed threads.
Insert the opposite end of the nylon pushrod into the female tube
at the firewall and push it in place all the way back to the servo bay.
Press the nylon ball link fitting onto the ball link on the carburetor
throttle arm. The servo end of the pushrod will be prepared after
the throttle servo is installed in the coming steps.
❑9) As mentioned earlier in the Fuel Tank Assembly steps, it is
very convenient to install a fueling valve in this airplane. For
gasoline engines, Du-Bro makes a very good fueling valve, Du-Bro
P/N 335. This valve is easy to use and we have provided an
aluminum bracket in your kit that will allow you to mount the valve
directly to the firewall. In our gas powered Rascals, we mounted
this valve on the right side of the firewall. Connect the Tygon fuel
lines to the appropriate nipple fittings on the engine and it is ready
to use.
❑10) Gas engines with ignition systems require a separate
battery pack to power the ignition module. In the case of our F.P.E.
1.3, we used the standard 4-cell 600maH battery pack that came
with our radio system for this purpose. This battery pack provides
about 1-1/2 hours of running time before needing recharging. We
mounted our ignition battery pack in the nose of fuselage, beneath
the fuel tank. We wrapped it in foam and wedged it firmly in place.
The ignition system must be able to be turned on and off as
needed and this means that there must be a separate switch for
this purpose. We used a standard radio system switch assembly,
with a charging receptacle, for this purpose. We mounted this
19
Ignition
Switch Radio
Switch

switch inside the fuselage, on the floor, just ahead of the landing
gear block placing it far forward, away from the radio system. To
activate the switch, we used a piece of music wire with an "L"
bend, on the fuselage side. To do this like we did, refer to the
Radio Installation section, Step #1.
❑11) The fiberglass cowl is prepared for mounting using the
same methods described in Steps 7, 8, and 9 in the 4-Stroke
Engines section of this manual. With most gas engines and their
side-mounted carburetors, the cowl will have to be opened to clear
this assembly. We, also, opened a small hole directly over the fuel
valve to allow access with the fuel probe.
In the case of our F.P.E. 1.3 engine installation, we also had to
relieve the bottom right edge of the cowl opening to clear the
sparkplug wire.
FUSELAGE PREPARATION & SERVO INSTALLATION:
In this section, the fuselage is prepared for mounting the tail group.
The elevator, rudder, and throttle servos will also be installed.
Because of the size of the airplane, it is much easier to take care
of these steps now. From the kit contents, locate the bag
containing the four factory covered Channeled Balsa Tail Fairings
- you will need two of these for this section. Also, locate the bag
containing the Control Surface Hardware Parts. From this bag
remove the following:
2 each . 024" x 47-1/8" Plastic Coated Pull-Pull Steel Cables
2 each Metal R/C Links, threaded onto brass pull-pull fittings
2 each 1.9mm dia. x 4.2mm Brass Pull-Pull Swaging Tube Fittings
In addition, the elevator, rudder, and throttle servos and the
elevator servo extension cable will be used. You will also need the
remaining R/C link and threaded metal stud.
❑1) Two of the Channeled Balsa Tail Fairings are now glued in
place at the fuselage stabilizer saddle, one on each side. These
fairings add additional gluing area and support to the stabilizer
saddle. To glue the fairings in place, prepare the fuselage sides by
removing the covering material directly beneath the saddle area.
This will be a strip that is 5/16" deep by the length of the fairing.
Prepare both sides of the fuselage in this way.
Use 5-minute epoxy to glue the two fairings in place onto each
fuselage side, flush with the top surface of the stabilizer saddle, as
shown. Pin the fairings in place and allow the glue to cure.
❑2) On the right fuselage side, directly beneath the stabilizer
saddle, there is an opening for the elevator servo. The opening
has been covered over at the factory and must now be opened.
Use a hobby knife with a sharp #11 blade to do this now. Find
each corner of the rectangular opening and cut the covering
toward the center, leaving four covering "flaps". Use a small
covering iron to seal the four sides of the opening and trim the
excess material away.
❑3) Looking inside the elevator servo opening, you will see the
factory installed pull-pull exit tubes. These two exits are now
opened on each side of the fuselage, as shown. After finding
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Fuel
Valve