Skip Model Designs Slick 540 User manual

Thank you for purchasing the Skip Model Designs 1300mm Slick 540
If you have any issues, questions, concerns or problems during assembly, please contact us :
[email protected] 0r 0844 818 0290 10am-5pm GMT Monday thru Friday.
We As skip model designs, Assume the builder to be competent in been able to build and set up model aircraft. If
this is your rst model aircraft. We advise you seek advice before beginning the slick.
SAFETY in Assembly
During assembly of this aircraft, you will be asked to use sharp knives and hobby adhesives. Please follow all safety procedures recommended by the
manufacturers of the products you use,and always follow these important guidelines:
• ALWAYS protect your eyes when working with adhesives, knives, or tools, especially power tools. Safety glasses are the best way to protect your
eyes.
• ALWAYS protect your body, especially your hands and ngers when using adhesives, knives, or tools, especially power tools. Do not cut toward
exposed skin with hobby knives. Do not place hobby knives on tables or benches where they can roll o󰀨 or be knocked o󰀨.
• ALWAYS have a rst-aid kit handy when working with adhesives, knives, or tools, especially power tools. ALWAYS keep hobby equipment and
supplies out of the reach of children.
• SAFETY in Flying! This is NOT a toy! It is a very high-performance RC airplane capable of high speeds and extreme manoeuvres. It should only be
operated by a competent pilot in a safe area with proper supervision.
• ONLY y your aircraft in a safe, open area, away from spectators and vehicles and where it is legal to y. NEVER y over an unsafe area, such as a
road or street.
• NEVER y near overhead power or utility lines. If your airplane ever becomes stuck in a line or a tree DO NOT attempt to retrieve it yourself. Contact
the authorities for assistance in retrieving your aircraft. Power lines are DANGEROUS and falls from ladders and trees CAN KILL!
• Never y too close to yourself or spectators.
• Spinning propellers are DANGEROUS! Never run your motor inside a house or building with the propeller attached Remove the prop for safety. • • •
Always y within your control.
• Always follow manufacturers instructions for your radio system.
•Always preform a pre-ight check of your aircraft to be certain of the aircraft’s airworthiness.
•Always obtain proper insurance before ying. Always y model aircraft in accordance with the Academy of Model Aeronautics (AMA) Safety Code and
BMFA/ LMA. Please visit These websites easily found in major search engines.
Limits of Responsibility
Skip Model Designs provides high-quality aircraft and components to it’s customers and end users. These aircraft and components are assembled by
the end user to produce a ying model. It is beyond skip model design’s to monitor the end user’s completed aircraft. Therefore, Skip Model Designs
in no way accepts or assumes responsibility or liability for damages resulting from the end user assembled product. The end user assumes all
responsibility and liability in use of Skip Model Designs and components
Required Items
• Masking or painters tape
• Hobby knife with #11 blades.
• Fresh 30 minute & 15 Minute epoxy.
• Plenty of both Medium and Thin CA.. Activator can also be used.
• Electric drill with an assortment of small drill bits.
• Small at head and Phillips head screw drivers.
• Standard and needle nose pliers.
• Hammer, Hacksaw and other basic Hobbiest Tools
• Metric ball driver or allen key set.
• Sanding block and sandpaper. Hobby Plane
• 4 x Savox 0256 Servos
• 1 x Overlander 3548/05 Brushless outrunner
1 x 60 Amp Speed Controller
1 x 3s or 4s 2200mah Lipo
Make sure that the plane is secured properly when you start up the engine.
Have at least 2 helpers hold your plane from the tail end or from behind the
wing tips before you start theengine. Make sure that all spectators are behind,
or far in front, of the aircraft when running up the engine.
Make sure that you range check your R/C system thoroughly before the rst
ight. It is absolutely necessary to range check your complete R/C installation
rst WITHOUT the engine running. Leave the transmitter antenna retracted,
and check the distance you can walk before ‘fail-safe’ occurs. Then start up
the engine, run it at about half throttle and repeat this range check with the
engine running.
Make sure that there is no range reduction before ‘fail-safe’
occurs. Only then make the 1st ight. If you feel that the range with engine
running is less then with the engine o󰀨, please contact the radio supplier and
the engine manufacturer and DON’T FLY at that time.
Check for vibrations through the whole throttle range. The engine should run
smoothly with no unusual vibration. If you think that there are any excessive
vibrations at any engine rpm’s, DON’T FLY at this time and check your engine,
spinner and propeller for proper balancing. Due to the models construction
( Been Light) it is very important to have everything running smoothly.

First part of building the slick is to assemble the internals of the
model. Most of these are a tight t as all the load is in the front
area. Ensure the slant on the front of BT is like photo when
assembeling to get right thrust.
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You start the assembly by adding F2 main undercarriage and
then f3. Once in place you add the undercarriage doublers by
sliding through the small holes.
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Next you add the switch mounts ( for a later model), F1 and
nally the 2 inner fuselage sides. Ensure the at on the fuaelage
sides are facing up

You now add Wing mount, F5 and F6.
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Add the rewall sides, rewall inner and if you are going to put
a overlander 3548 motor in, the holes in the rewall are already
marked for you.

In the kit you will nd 2 x 6mm x 150mm carbon tube,
these are to slide through F1 to F4. Once in place, you
need to llet epoxy the carbon to the UC plate.. be as
messy as you like... the more you add, the stronger it will
be!
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To complete the out side of the model, glue the last part of
the fuseage together, amd also add the 0.8mm birch to the
INNER of fuselage.. simply line up the fuselage sides to
the inner parts of fuselage and glue in place.
Once in place add the nal ribs to rear of model inc F9
and RM ( rudder mount)

Tack glue the rear UC plate at the moment as nal position
cannot be set till you have the rudder post in.
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Slide in the 4 x 3.2mm x 3.2mm balsa strips to the
fuselage sides from the front, and add the 2 x 3.2mm x
3.2mm spruce strips to bottom of model.
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Add F9T and the 5mm x 5mm balsa stringers to turtle
deck.
Congratulations, Your Fuselage is 75% Complete :)

To start the rudder n. Add the 0.8MM birch FBD to the
bottom of RP. en glue RS1 to 4 and the rudder front
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To assemble the rudder, make sure all slots in R1 to R7
are in the same direction. Add rudder post second spar
and rudder fake front.

Trim o the small tabs which have come through
the rudder fake front and glue 5mm strip of balsa
to front of rudder. Once glued. Slide the rudder in
to the n, set angle between RF4 and rudder. Glue..
once glued simply cut and have seperate n and
rudder
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Sheet the rudder with 1.5mm balsa. Add a front strip
of 1.5mm balsa then add the 5mm strip of balsa to
front, then round
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Glue the rudder n in place. In RF1 and RM there is
a slot to add a scrap strip of balsa to ensure the
rudder n is square to fuselage
At the stage, you can also set the angle on the rear uc
plate and slide in and glue as well.

e next part you have a choice depending on your
building skills.. in the kit you will nd a big block of
balsa. You can either add the block and shape to rudder
n
( making sure you leave 3mm all around F9T) or you
now sheet the entire turtle deck with 2.4mm balsa and
make it t the rudde4 n.
I recommend wetting the balsa to bend, use white glue
and hold with tape...
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Final part of rudder is to add a small balsa block to the
bottom of the rudder and sheet with 1.5mm balsa.
Once sheeted,add the 45 degree chamfer to the le of
rudder.

Next is the elevator stabs... extremely simple.. add all
ribs to elevator spar, add rear elevator stab. Hold at
and glue...
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Sheet the elevator with 1.5mm balsa and add a
1.5mm Le strip followed by a 5mm Le strip from the
scrap balsa you have in kit... then simply round to get
shape correct to fuselage
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To start the elevators you need to glue together E1,
EHS and E3 followed by E2. Once glued add the fake
elevator LE

Add the elevator secobd spar and all other ribs from E4 to
E8... add the nal part of elevator to front part of elevator
( Piece of scrap Balsa)
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Add a small piece of 2.4mm balsa around ply wood on
both sides of elevator and rub down to match prole. Add
the 5mm balsa LE strip to front of elevators

Final part is to sheet the elevators in 1.5mm balsa, add the
1.5mm and 5mm piece of balsa to LE tip of elevator. Rub
dowb Le strip to be round and chamfer the 5mm fake LE at 50
degrees.
Now repeat all elevator parts for second side
e elevators are not Handed!
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Next to build is the wings. e wings build upside down (
servo hatch up). Align all ribs W2 to W9 at 90 degrees to main
5mm balsa spar and tack glue in place. en add the rear spar
to wings.
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To get a perfect t against fuselage. Slide the carbon phenolic
in to the body. Slide W1 the correct way up to fuselage. en
slide the wing in to place. With the wing now mouted to
fuselage with W1 in place, TACK glue W1 to wings... ensure
you do not glue phenolic or W1 to body. Once glued simply
remove wings and glue all tacked areas

Add Wing servo mount to ribs and also add a 2.4mm
capping strip to LE of wings. Holding the wings down to
keep at.
e Capping Strip is made from a cut Strip of Balsa
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To start the ailerons. Use a clamp to pin the aileron front to
the Te of wings. en slowly begin to taglc glue the aileron
ribs to the aileron front. is will set all ribs to the correct
angles.
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One tacked. Remove ailerons and add 2.4mm balsa trailing
edge to ailerons and add balsa block between A3 and A4

Add front 2.4mm capping strip to ailerons and then nish
sheeting both sides like the attached
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Add the 5mm balsa fake aileron front to aileron and
chamfer to 45 - 50 degrees :).. repeat process for second
aileron.
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Slide Outer Phenolic in to wing and Glue in place with
either superglue or epoxy, Make sure to sand Flush with W1
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Add the cnc g10 wing screw caddie to wings and the 4mm
carbon anti rotation pin to FRONT of wing only. Use epoxy
to glue these in place
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Sheet the bottom of the wings in 2.4mm balsa.. this will
now stabalise the wing so you can ip it over.
Repeat process for other main wing up to this point. Ensure
you build a le and a right wing. e only 2 ribs that de-
notes this is the servo hatch ribs ( W4 and W5)

Add 5mm balsa LE and round front of wings, And
Round
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Your wings and ailerons should now be complete, ready
for covering.
Rub down and nish and add your own personal
nishing touches before covering
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Back on to Fuselage
Final part for before nal sheeting of fuselage is add a
piece of balsa block to rear uc and shape.. . e rear tail
wheel slot will be added later.

Sheet the bottom of the model like in pics with 2.4mm
balsa... remember to cut out for where main uc sits.
is is not an easy task to do!. I recommend wetting
the balsa ( soak it) and bend to save it splitting.. glue
with white glue
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Glue C1 to C3 in place to canopy frame. e canopy
frame is 4mm too narrow to body so sheeting can sit
ush against body. Add 5mm balsa stringers... i le my
front top one longer as i know i will need to trim back
the hatch when canopy is presented
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Add the 6mm carbon pins to c1 which slide in to F1..
then sheet the canopy hatch like the attached in 2.4mm
balsa.. rub down the canopy frame in position so it
makes a nice neat t to body

Slide wings in to place and drill the G10 wing peg
with a 3mm drill.. once drilled remove wings ans
add the 2 x 3mm T nuts under the wing shelf..
Make sure the wings are a tight t. Glue T nuts with
epoxy
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With the build now complete, Its time to get
creative and cover your Slick :)
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Once covering is complete.. grab the ca hinges and
mark out of all surfaces where they will t. Use the
back of a knife and make slots on centre line of
surface.. 4 ca hinges per aileron.. 2 per elevator and
3 on rudder. Ensure on all surfaces you have a min
of 40 degrees on all surfaces. Do Not glue elevators
just yet
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Slide in the elevator and horrizontal stab. Take
measurements To get central to model. If the eleva-
tor stab is not at 90 defrees to rudder. Simply shave
a slight amount of fuselage till it is.. Use epoxy to
glue in place.
Once glued. Attach second elevator, again using
epoxy where the joiner ts and ca on the hinges.

Add servos to wings, elevators and rudder.. once
done you can now mark and cut slots in control
surcaces for the G10 control horns to t in. Make
sure pin hole on g10 horn is over centre of surface.
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Add the rear anti rotation pin in to fuselage. With
10mm sticking out either side if fuselage. is will
strengthen fuselage also.
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If you choose to run the overlander T3548/05 the
holes will line up perfectly. So all you have to do is
secure with your prefered method
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Glue the elevator joiner ( G10) on to one elevator
with epoxy... ensure that the joiner also ts both ele-
vators when on plane. Glue the one elevator in place
with ca hinges( the one you have glued the joiner
in). Once in place. Add the other elevator half and
Glue in place using Epoxy where the joiner ts and
CA on the hinges.

All that le now is the cowl t, canopy, servo hook up,
main uc, tail wheel and throw set up.... easy ay?
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Mark where the UCD are on F2 and F3... . Slide the
undercarriage in to place and drill through the Car-
bon & bre glass UC and UC plate where you have
just marked..
Once drilled add the 3 x 4mm T nuts and screws to
secure the main Uc in place.
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Finish the wheel pant with some wet and dry to get a
desired nish... add the slot to the wheel pant ( where
it meets the legs)
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Assemble the 3mm bolt like the image attached....

Slide wheel pant on to UC and tighten up with the
3rd nut on opposite side of leg.. if you cut the slot too
wide in wheel pant, you will need to add washer inside
wheelpant before tightening up.
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Once the cowl is sprayed. slide over fuselage and get
cowl centre to spinner. Ax with screws.
e Cowl is designed to be a tight t. Be prepaired to
Need to sand the inside of the cowl to get to t snug
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e canopy of the slick is designed to t on the outside
of the model.... use screws or canopy glue to secure.
Ax canopy fame to model in your own prefered
way....