Softwoods BK060 User manual

<6 FS 23oct2014
Pre Cut Gable Pergola Assembly Guide
Thank you for purchasing your pre cut gable roof pergola from
Softwoods. We have aimed to make the installation process as easy
and enjoyable as possible. We value your feedback and invite any
suggestions you feel would improve the installation process.
Cutting edge technology has been used to produce your structure
from the design stage right through to the manufacturing and delivery.
This allows a lot of the assembly work to be done ‘in the shop’ or ‘on
the ground’ as opposed to the more difficult method of doing it ‘in the
air’ during construction.
The following is a step by step guide to the installation of the
structure.
Please read these instructions thoroughly before commencing
to build and refer to them throughout the building process.
Handy hints from experienced builders and other important
information is contained in this guide as well as the core, step
by step process.
Not following these instructions carefully may result in the
structure not going together as intended or not meeting
engineering requirements.
If after thorough reading of these instructions you are still
having problem you may call 0433 143 583 for some assistance.

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Table of Contents
Before you start .......................................................................
Preparation and marking out ....................................................
Assemble gable frames ...........................................................
Installing fascia brackets ..........................................................
Building the perimeter beams ..................................................
Installing the posts ...................................................................
Pitching the roof .......................................................................
Prepare and install external gutters ..........................................
Prepare and install internal gutter ............................................
Install gutter .............................................................................
Prepare and install roofing .......................................................
Prepare and install capping......................................................
Finishing off .............................................................................

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Before you start
It is very important to check with your local council or shire before
building any structure. It is the builder’s responsibility to ensure that
all approvals have been obtained and that the structure being
attached to is suitable to support the extra loads imposed by the new
structure.
Of equal importance is to create a safe work site. Various stages of
construction will require at least two people to complete. Ensure that
appropriately tall ladders are used when required and that the work
site is clean and clearly flagged during construction to avoid children
or other unauthorised people entering the potentially dangerous area.
You will find handy safe work method tips on our website
www.softwoods.com.au/safework.htm
Tools required
The following tools will be required to install your pre cut pergola.

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Your kit
The components of the pergola kit are listed in the ‘Bill of Materials’
document supplied. The diagram below illustrates where the items
are located within the structure.
Please check your materials against the list prior to commencement,
to ensure you have everything you need. If something appears to be
missing, please double check against your list and then contact us.
To help you identify and assemble the timber members they have
been marked. The markings are on the cut ends so as to be visible
when timber is painted and not visible when the structure is complete.
There are some members that you will need to mark, however we
recommend that you paint all members before doing any marking.
Corner Posts are marked with a PC# on the notched out sections
Intermediate Posts are marked with a PM# on the notched out
sections
Edge Beams are marked with a BM# on the topside at one end
Bottom Chords are marked with a BC# on the topside at one end,
the bottom chords have a notch in each end.
Standard Rafters are marked with a RS# on the topside at one end
Gable End Rafters are marked with a RG# on the topside at one end
Collar Ties are marked with a CT# on the topside at one end
The Ridge is marked with a RDG# on the topside at one end
Purlins are marked with a PR# on the topside at one end
Vertical Struts are marked with an ST# on the end cut
Starburst Struts are marked with a SB# on the end cut
Barge Boards are marked with an TB# on the internal face at one
end

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When you are satisfied that you have everything you need and the
site is clean and safe it is time to start painting.
Painting and Care.
All timber is subject to movement when not tightly packed.
Please be sure to keep your timber neatly stacked before and after
painting to keep any sort of movement in timber to a minimum. Keep
the pack covered and if possible do not stack the timber on grass.
After painting do not stack one piece of timber on top of another as
the paint will stick both pieces together, even if it has been left to dry
for a few days. At the back of this booklet there are two pages on
general timber care it is very important that you read these
recommendations before commencing painting.
Preparation and marking out
A major benefit of a Softwoods pre cut gable pergola is that a lot of
the measuring and marking has been done for you. Other tasks that
would have previously been done ‘in the air’ when the structure is
partly constructed can now be done safely and accurately on the
ground.
Fitting joist hangers to beams
The beams (members marked with a
BM#) have the positions of the rafters
already located on them. About every
1200mm (exact measurement depends
on your structure) there will be three
holes punched into the face of the
timber. Holes 1 and 2 line up with
corresponding holes in the joist hanger.
Hole 3 forms a triangle with holes 1 and
2 to indicate the top side of the beam.
To fit, line up the joist hanger holes just
above the single gang nail flange with
holes 1 and 2 on the beam. Drive a
connector nail through the joist hanger
into hole 1 leaving the head of nail just
proud so that it can be pulled out if it
clashes with the bolts of the fascia bracket
fitted at a later stage.
Squeeze the joist hanger so hole 2 on opposite flange is aligned with
hole 2 on the face of the beam. Drive another connector nail through
to complete the temporary attachment of the joist hanger to the beam
again leaving the nail just proud. The remaining connector nails will
be fitted after the rafter has been located in the joist hanger.
Repeat this process for all the joist hangers required in the structure.
The result will be two beams with joist hangers positioned exactly to
receive the gable frames.

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Marking rafter positions on purlins
The purlins (members marked with a PR#) are fitted to the top of the
rafters after all gable frames have been installed. Pre marking on the
purlins exactly where they should intersect with the rafters will allow
the rafters to be easily pulled into square when the purlins are
installed.
Arrange the purlins side by side on a
level surface or on saw horses. All of
these members are the same length.
Position the beams with joist hangers
attached so that they are on either
side of the group of purlins and so that
the ends of all members line up. The
arrangement should look like the
adjacent image.
Use and off cut or straight edge to
mark a line across all of the purlins to correspond with the edge of the
joist hangers.
Repeat this process for the other joist hangers. The result will be two
lines marked on each purlin that represent the position of each rafter.
Purlin locations on rafters
The last members you have to
mark are the rafters.
Looking at your plan you can see
how many spaces between the
purlins there are. Measure the run
of your rafter and subtract 70mm
from this length. Once you have
that number, you will then need to
divide it by the number of spaces.
This is the distance from the top (closest edge to the ridge) of one
purlin to the top the next purlin. Mark this out on your rafters leaving
out the bottom mark as that is determined by the edge beam and the
internal gutter.
Example:
If x = 2400
Then 2400 – 70 = 2330
2330 divided by 3 spaces
2330/3 = 777 (round up)
Result of marking
Result of
marking

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So you would place a mark 777mm from the top of the rafter then
another mark 777mm down from that. Remember you do not need to
mark the top or bottom purlin position.
.
Rafter locations on ridge
The top side of the ridge will have small scores along it to indicate
where the centre of each rafter will go. Similar to the number 3 holes
marked on the beam.
Assemble gable frames
The gable frames or internal rafters and collar ties, will be made on
the ground then lifted into place later. You will need to do this on a
flat surface for the most accuracy.
Layout with bottom chord and spacer block
Lay the bottom chord on a flat surface then
place 2 rafters with their ends on the inside of
the mitre. This will also line up with the
vertical face of the notch.
Using a ridge spacer which is a piece of
timber the same thickness as your ridge
(35mm or 45mm) as a makeshift ridge, move
the rafters so they meet the ridge spacer at
the top. Make sure the rafters are still in the
correct position against the bottom chord.
To make it easier to drill through, place all members on your rafter
stiffeners to prop them up off the ground as shown.
Locate collar tie
Once rafters are in position, place the
collar tie on top of the pair of rafters.
To establish the exact position where the
collar tie should be, measure from the
edge of the rafter to the edge point of the
collar tie on both sides and check if they
are about the same.
You may need to move the collar tie until
your measurements are the same or
similar
Collar tie Rafter
Bottom Chord
Bottom Chord
Rafter
Notch

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Drill and bolt collar tie
With Drill 10mm holes for the bolts
using the table and diagram to
determine the quantity and
placement.
Once the holes are drilled insert the bolts. You will need to knock
them in with a hammer. Because of the tight holes, the frame will be
held in place. There is no need to fix with washers and nuts at this
stage
Now your first gable frame is almost done. Place another set of
rafters and collar tie above the frame you’ve just made.
Line up the rafters and the collar
ties so they are parallel with the
first frame components. This is
where having them elevated
comes in handy.
To make sure your collar ties all
line up when the frames are
installed, measure the distance
between the two at both ends.
Repeat this procedure as in the previous step for the remaining
frames.
When all frames are completed stand them up, fit washers and nuts
and tighten.
Tip
You may like to do
one frame at a
time or line them
up all at once
depending on how
much space you
have.

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Marking out structure
You will need to mark out the extents
of you structure on the ground using
your string line. For this marking out
to be as accurate as possible it is
important that the string line is tight.
You can tie the string to pegs in the
ground. These may be metal or
wooden stakes, tent pegs or basically
anything that can be driven into the
ground to keep the string tight. By
referring to your plan mark out the total
extents of your structure using the
string lines. Use a level to make sure
the string is completely horizontal so
your post heights are the same.
Check the layout is square by taking a
few measurements at different points
including the diagonal lengths.
Installing the first post
Now that you have the structure marked out
you can install the first post, this needs to
be a corner post. Once the first post is
installed you can easily prop up the beams
and install the other posts with the structure
being level. If your surface has a slope of
any kind on it make sure your first post is
located
in the
high
corner.
Freestanding structures need to
have double tornado post shoes.
This is done by placing two post
shoes together to make one.
Looking at the diagram below you can see that one of the post shoes
sits 30mm higher than the other. This is very important as it allows
the bolts to pass through the post with out hitting each other. Cut the
post to your desired length and install the post shoe. Also pay
particular attention to ensure the base of the post is the distance you
require above the seat of the post shoe.
Pegs
extended 1m
past corners.

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You will find the required footing size on
your plans. Dig your hole to these
dimensions. Put the post in the hole
lining it up horizontally and vertically with
the string line. If the hole is too deep
and the post shoe needs to be higher,
put some rocks,
gravel or the like
under the shoe
to lift it up. Once
you are satisfied
with the level of the bottom of the post prop it
with purlins. Nail the purlins to post
diagonally in both directions.
Once you have the post aligned accurately
just inside the string line you can mix the
concrete and pour into hole. Leave the post
to set check periodically that it is still level in
both directions.
Installing beam and posts together.
Now that you have your first post in position
you can work your way around the structure
temporarily installing the posts and beams at
the same time. Do this by propping up the
beam with a purlin and clamp. Adjust the
beam and props until the beam is level. If
your structure is less than 6.0 metres in
length, temporarily install the two corner post
on the beam first
and then put the
middle posts in.
If your structure is over 6.0 metres in
length, install the first section of beam
with the post at the join, then go ahead
and install the second section of beam
and so on.
Continue this around the structure until
you have all the join and corner posts
temporarily in place, check the beam is level and the structure is
square.
Fix the posts and pour concrete
The posts are fixed to the beam with M10 cup head bolt.
Intermediate posts require two bolts per connection and corner posts
should have two bolts in each direction. If your structure is over 6.0m
String
line

<6 FS 23oct2014
in length and there is a join along the length of the beam, fix with four
bolts, two on each face of beam. Make sure the bolt heads are on the
outside
Mix the concrete according to the manufacturers instructions and
pour into the footing hole. This may cause the post to be moved out
of level – quickly check and return it to level if this occurs. Repeat this
for all of the posts checking previous ones as you go.
Leave the structure propped until the concrete has set. It is best to
leave it over night as working on the structure may result in your
pergola being moved out of square as the concrete cures.
Pitching the roof
Erecting gable frames
Putting the frames up is probably
the easiest and the most fun part
of your project.
This is done by placing a ladder at
each beam and lifting one end of
the gable frame into the joist
hanger so it is pushed in as far as
possible
Lift the other end up to the opposite
joist hanger and slip in. Ensure
you keep the first end of the gable frame securely positioned in the
joist hanger so it doesn’t fall out. This is safest to do with 2 people.
Push both ends down firmly to ensure they are positioned completely
in the joist hangers and against beam.
Once the gable frame is up
install a 30mm flat head nail in
each hole of the joist hanger.
Repeat until all the gable frames
are in position. Be sure that you

<6 FS 23oct2014
position the frames with the collar ties on the same side.
Installing the ridge
When all the gable frames are up
you are now able to install the
ridge. This is done by first sliding
it up and resting it on top of the
collar ties.
With a ladder at each end and 2
people you should be able to lift
and push the ridge beam up into
position lining the top of the rafters up with the top of the ridge. Use
your spirit level to make sure
the end of the ridge is lined up
with the outside face of the
bottom chord. The notch in the
ridge should be on the under
side. If your
The rafters will support the ridge
but be careful not to push it too
far up as it can be quite difficult
to pull down.
If the centre of the rafters do not line up with the marks on top of the
ridge you will need to tap them into place. Use a block to protect the
timber from the hammer.
If your structure is over 6.0 metres in
length you will need to make sure the
ridge joins on a set of rafters. Push the
first section of ridge up so it the joining
edge is sitting halfway along the
thickness of a set of rafters. Then
push the second section up to meet the
join.
Once the rafters are in place fix them to the ridge with 3x75mm nails,
1 in from the top of the rafter and 1 skew nailed in either side.
As you fix each gable frame to
the ridge you will need to evenly
fix the 600mm rafter strap over
the top of the rafters and ridge.
Use
5 x 30mm connector nails in the
holes on the strap each side of
the ridge.

<6 FS 23oct2014
Install vertical struts
Now you have installed the
standard gable frames you will
install the gable ends. Position the
vertical strut into the notched part
of the ridge intersecting with the
top of the bottom chord. Cut the
vertical strut to length ensuring a
neat fir between the bottom chord
and the ridge. Fix the vertical strut
first by drilling and screwing into
the notch in the ridge with a
100mm bugle screw. Fix the vertical strut to the bottom chord with a
75mm nail in each face. Pre drill the strut to make it easier.
Install end rafters
Once the vertical strut is installed
take one of the gable end rafters
and put it in place. Line the top
end up with the top of the ridge and
the bottom end with the start of the
notch in the bottom chord. Fix to
the ridge with 2 x 100m bugle
screws. To fix to ridge you will have
to bugle screw from the top of
rafter through to ridge
Temporarily fix the end rafters to
the bottom chord with 1 x 75mm
bullet head nail
Place other gable end rafter in
position and line up as you did
with the first. Now fix the base of
the gable end rafters to the
bottom chords with 3 x 100mm
bugle screws.

<6 FS 23oct2014
Install starburst struts
It’s now time to install the starburst
struts. These are placed at the
base of the vertical strut and are
at 45 degrees to meet the gable
end rafter. Fix to both the bottom
chord and the
end rafters with
75 mm bullet
head nails. Pre drill the holes to avoid splitting
timber
Install purlins
You have almost finished the frame. All you need to do now is install
the purlins.
You will need to line the purlins up with the marks on the rafters and
line up the rafters with the marks on purlins. If they do not line up try
and pull the purlins out as straight or as close to lining up as possible.
When you have a purlin in position, fix it to the rafter with a 100mm
bugle screw. The bottom purlins go up against the beam and will slot
right into the notch in the bottom chord. The top purlin goes up
against the edge of the ridge.
If you need to join purlins make sure you pre drill the bugle screw
hole to avoid splitting of the purlin end.
If your roofing is polycarbonate fix purlin tape to the top face of the
purlins prior to installing them.
Prepare and install external gutters
Measuring
With the frame completed you can put the roofing on to keep the
weather out. The gutters are installed first then the roofing and then
capping. Make sure all metal goods have the plastic protective
coating removed before being installed
Cut, and install stop ends
To prepare the gutter you will
need to fix the stop ends and pop.
Trim the gutter to length with tin
snips if necessary. To join the
gutter rivet and silicon the

<6 FS 23oct2014
sections together with a 100mm overlap Trim the gutter to length with
tin snips. Hold the stop ends in place and drill a hole through the
back front and bottom for the rivet through gutter and stop ends.
Rivet and silicon the stop end to gutter.
Install pop(s)
Do the same with the pop by working out
which post will be supporting the downpipe
thus determining where the pop needs to
be positioned. Trace a
line around the inner
circle of the pop and
use a chisel to punch
holes around this line in order to punch a section
of the gutter out. The pop should now slide into
the hole. Drill, rivet and silicon the pop to gutter.
Install gutter clips
Nail your gutter clips to the top of the
beam with 30mm flat head nails,
these clips should be placed at
maximum 900mm centres. To get a
fall on the gutter, create a string line
by temporarily nailing a nail at both
ends of the pergola where the gutter
will be. Use a level to make sure
there is a fall towards the end where
the downpipe will be. The fall should
be 1:500 or 1cm per 5 metres.
Install gutter
Slip the gutter on to the gutter clips.
Nail every 900mm through the top back
of the gutter to beam with 30mm flat
head nails. Make sure you pull the
gutter down to the nail/string line level to
get the fall correct.
Mitre Gutter if needed
If you have an internal gutter on you
structure as detailed below, you will more than likely need to have
your standard gutter go along the bottom chord to collect water from
the internal gutter. To mitre the gutter follow these simple steps.
Pencil

<6 FS 23oct2014
With the gutter upside down mark where
the corner with occur (point A) on the
back of the gutter. Using a square,
draw a line
on the outside of the back of the gutter
from point A to point A1 as shown.
On the back of the gutter place a
further two marks, each equal to the
width of the gutter (at points B and C)
to extend beyond the fascia corner.
The central mark B should be extended completely around the
outside of the gutter using a square and pencil.
On the base of gutter, draw a line to connect the continuous line from
B1 to both A and C. Mark a
line 10mm away from, but
parallel to A-B1, and extend
this across the back of the
gutter. This will produce a
“lap” when the mitre is formed.
This parallel line should also
extend up the back of the
gutter to A1.
Using snips, cut along the line on
one side an one the other side,
cut on the parallel line which is
10mm in from the original line
drawn connecting A-B1. You will
cut out the complete V marked
into the gutter. In addition,
remove excess material at A and B1 to allow the outside of the gutter
to fold easily, and the tags to overlap.
Cut a 45 degree notch into the bead
of the gutter at the top directly in line
with the point of the V.
F
o
l
d
the gutter around until the back
sections touch each other. Fold
tag inside the back gutter, rivet
and silicone.
Prepare and install roofing

<6 FS 23oct2014
Now the gutters are in place you can install the roofing.
Measure and cut to length
Measure the distance from the outside edge of the top purlin down to
50mm past the outside edge of the bottom purlin to ensure the water
will fall into the gutter.
If the sheets aren’t already at the correct length, cut them to size with
tin snips, sharp scissors or a fine tooth blade in a circular saw. If you
are using colorbond roofing the sheets should be cut to the required
length.
Locate and pre drill screw holes
Generally the top and bottom purlin screws
go in every second crest and for all mid
purlins screws go in every third crest.
Refer to the roof sheet manufacturers
specifications to confirm this.
Translate measurements from the centre of
each purlin to the roof sheets, use chalk or
a wax pencil to mark a line for screw
positioning.
Pre drill 10mm holes in sheets where the
screws will be. These holes allow for
movement in the sheets as temperatures
change.
Fix roof sheets
Screw through the pre drilled holes
with dome washer polycarbonate
screws. Screw sheets to all purlins
except the top purlin at ridge and
the ends of each purlin ready for
installation before the ridge and
barge cap to go on. Sweep off any
shavings left on roof.

<6 FS 23oct2014
the top purlin using the dome washer polycarbonate screws.
To make sure you are screwing into the pre drilled holes, follow the
same line of screws as you have done on the bottom purlin.
Overlap the ridge cap 100mm if you need to join.
Barge board
Now you need to fix the barge
board to the ends of the purlins
with 50mm bullet head nails
every 300mm
You need to pre drill the holes
to prevent splitting of the barge
board.
Barge cap
Place the metal barge cap over the
barge board and roofing then screw
to the purlins with dome washer
screws.
Finishing off
Now you have finished all the fixing work. To make your pergola
more appealing to the eye, paint over all your brackets and bolts. To
cover up any timber defects or nail marks. Put some filler in the holes
and smooth it back and paint over.
Prepare and install capping
Ridge cap
Place the ridge cap on top and screw
down through the roof sheeting into

© March 2004
General recommendations
for Treated Pine
Painting - General
As all exterior timbers are subject to rainwater
uptake and widely varying temperatures, it is now
well recognised that all timbers used outdoors must
be protected from constant water adsorption and
water loss that will cause the following distortional
changes even if timbers have been seasoned by
kiln drying or air seasoned –shrinkage, splitting,
twisting, bowing and cracks. Protection from long
term sun exposure is as important as it is for people
to put on SPF sun block!
While these “cosmetic”problems may not lead to
actual timber failure, they are a common cause of
dissatisfaction with timber in general. These
problems can be largely minimised or prevented by
the use of quality oil based stains or suitable acrylic
paints. Good painting practices are also very
successful in preventing timber distortional
changes.
Painting –Treated Pine
Our recommendation is to use a good quality
outdoor acrylic paint such as Wattyl Solagard,
Solver Duragard or Dulux X10. These paints have
an in built primer and can be applied directly over
bare timber without an undercoat. Two good coats
are usually adequate for most colours, however
white and some light colours may require an
additional coat. Oil based stains available in a wide
range of colours may also be used. Depending on
its level of exposure to the suns UV rays, a painted
finish will generally last around ten years before it
needs to be re coated. Oil based stains will need to
be re coated every two to three years.
Note: Dark paint colours on timber may also cause
excess moisture content fluctuations as these
colours will absorb heat into timber. This may
decrease its durability and also result in “bleeding”
from the timber.
Any knots or imperfections may be filled and
sanded before painting. There are many suitable
types of filler available from leading hardware stores
and paint outlets.
The easiest way to paint your timber is on the
ground before construction. Use a couple of
trestles or saw horses to support the timber and
save your back by bending too far. By using a
100mm short knap roller you will save a great deal
of time compared to using a brush. Paint all edges
of the timber, but don’t worry about painting the
ends as these will usually be trimmed during
construction.
Once each piece of timber is painted, store it by
placing it upright on its narrow edge on a flat level
surface out of the sun and rain. Don’t stack one
piece of timber on top of another as the paint will
stick both pieces together, even after it has been left
to dry for a few days.
Please call if you need any advice on painting, or
your approximate paint quantity requirements.
Softwoods can supply leading brand paints and
stains at discounted prices.
Painting - Primed Treated Pine
LOSP Treated and pink/blue primed pine can be
painted in much the same way as above with just a
few extra steps.
The pink primer is not intended to be a quality
undercoat and has been applied by the
manufacturer purely to protect the timber during
storage, production and transport. The primer
should be sanded back, the timber washed with
turps and then a quality oil based primer applied.
Finish with acrylic paint as for Treated Pine above.
We recommend you check with the paint supplier
before commencing any work as they have varying
recommendations for painting this product. Further
information can be obtained by visiting the
Australian Paint Manufacturers Association web site
at: www.apmf.ans.au/html/general_sheets_0.html
Decking
We recommend that decking be painted or oiled
after installation. Oiling of the decking boards is
more common and provides a natural look without
masking the grain of the timber.
Decking oil is available in a range of colours and is
easily applied with a lamb’swool applicator.
Storage
Timber delivered to site must be kept dry and not
exposed to sunlight or rain for a lengthy period
before construction.
If building work is not to commence for some time
we recommend that the timber is stored out of the
weather in a garage or under a carport or verandah.
If this is not possible, then the timber should be kept
off of damp ground and left covered in its protective
packaging material or covered over with a tarpaulin.
Depending on level of exposure your deck will need
recoating anywhere from every 6 months to every 2-3 years.
As soon as it looks like it needs a fresh oil or stain then do it.
If you leave it without protection the deck will deteriorate
and warranty will be void
Follow the instructions on the can for oiling and staining.

© March 2004
Excessive exposure to the elements by not
following the recommendations above will cause
movement in the timber and may void your
warranty.
Use only Galvanised Nails and Bolts
Despite the claims of some gun nail manufacturers,
the use of zinc plated or lightly galvanised coil or
cartridge nails should be avoided particularly on
exposed Treated Pine. Use only hot dipped
galvanised nails with Treated Pine and twist shank
galvanised or stainless steel nails with Treated Pine
decking.
Zinc plated bolts and coach screws will corrode and
are unlikely to provide long term structural reliability
and safety. Use only hot dipped galvanised fixing
materials at all times with treated pine to prevent
possible rusting and failure. Screws must have a
Class 3 coating.
Safe working habits
Preservative Treated Pine, as with any other timber
or building material is safe to use. Common sense
rules must be followed and some points worth
considering are:
Use a dust mask and goggles to protect your
eyes and nose, especially if working in a
confined area.
Avoid inhaling wood dust as you would avoid
inhaling metal filings etc.
Use hearing protection at all times if using
power tools or noisy equipment.
Do not burn Treated Pine ever –dispose of off
cuts at your tip safely.
Use sizes of timber and strength grades in
careful compliance with the Building Code of
Australia and National Framing Code.
Apply for a building permit at all times unless
your council does not require it.
Use correct spans for timber sizes, and
noggings to prevent movement and possible
twisting.
We would be happy to mail, fax or e-mail you a
safety data sheet on treated pine. Please call on
08-8346-5892 or email your request to
[e-mail]
Further Information
General information is available from our web site at
www.softwoods.com.au or call 1300 737 465.
The Plantation Timber Association of Australia has
a technical guide on Treated Pine available for
download at www.ptaa.com.au/pubs/pubs.htm
Limited Lifetime Warranty
Lifetime limited warranty certificate covering your
use of CCA Treated Micro Reeded Treated Radiata
Pine ('the product') supplied by Softwoods
Timberyards Pty Ltd (Softwoods).
When the product is used at a privately owned
residence Softwoods will provide a lifetime warranty
against wood rot, insect and fungal attack in
accordance with Australian Standard 1604. The
product may also be structurally graded in
accordance with AS 2858 ensuring its long term
performance.
This warranty will only apply if the product (including
cut ends exposed to the weather) has been painted
within a month of the supply date and is well
maintained with a suitable outdoor acrylic paint or
stain. If the structure is to be built unpainted with
the intention of painting within one month of
completion, then cut ends must be re-treated with a
suitable product such as Blue7 or Protim XJ before
construction commences. The warranty applies to
CCA Treated posts provided they are placed on a
suitable post support above ground level.
The warranty is effective from the date of purchase
for as long as you own the property at which your
new Softwoods timber structure is built. This
Warranty is not transferable. The original consumer
purchaser will be entitled to receive new Softwoods
timber in exchange for timber damaged by wood rot
or insect and fungal attack. To make arrangements
for this exchange of timber, the original owner must
send the original purchase invoice showing the date
of purchase (together with dated receipts for paint
or stain used to maintain the timber), to Softwoods
Timberyards Pty Ltd 573 Port Road Croydon SA
5008.
Softwoods shall not be liable for any installation or
re-installation costs or for the natural characteristics
of some wood to split, warp, twist or delaminate, or
for any incidental or consequential damages. The
warranty does not cover any loss or damage
caused by vandalism, fire, disasters of nature or
non-compliance with Softwoods storage or
installation recommendations.
This warranty is subject to good building practices
being exercised in all applications. If in doubt, refer
to your local council or building practitioner for
advice.
Thank you for choosing Softwoods as your timber
supplier.
Softwoods Timberyards Pty Ltd
573 Port Road
Croydon SA 5008