Sonic Soul Fast User manual

Assembly and Care for your new
Soul Fast eBike
Part 1: Assembly
1. Unbox and unpack your new bike.
1. There are two to three items to look for in your bike box
1. The bike
2. The main parts box - there may be a secondary parts box dependent on model
ordered
3. Pedals in box
4. Seat and post
2. Upon removal of the bike and assorted parts boxes, please remove the protective
packing materials, zip ties and plastics. Take care not to cut any cables or brake hoses.
3. Inspect for any damage during shipment.
2. Organizing the assembly - You will have the following parts/components:
1. The main bike frame assembly
2. Fork
3. Front wheel
4. Handlebars
5. Stem
6. Seat/seat post
7. Seat clamp (usually pre-installed onto frame, or if a rear rack is involved there is a
secondary clamp)
8. Headset parts
9. Pedals
10. Reflectors

11. Bike spikes (If equipped)
3. Assemble the bike from front to rear: Fork and Headset
1. Find the fork and headset parts
2. The bearings and seals are pre-installed into the frame
3. Make sure the cables and brake hoses are on the non drive side of the bike
4. Insert the fork into the frame
5. Place the plastic split washer onto the fork from the top
6. Next is the top dust seal which is aluminum with a plastic outer edge. If there is excess
paint on the fork, the O-ring can be removed from the inside area of this seal.
7. Place the aluminum spacers onto the fork.
4. Assemble the stem
1. The stem is pre installed onto the handlebars.
2. The flat surface points down, the upper has a machined area where the tension bolt is
recessed into
3. Place the stem onto the fork
4. Take the top tension cap and bolt and thread it into the fork
5. Proper tensioning is not needed immediately. Thread this together enough to take the
slack out of the spacers
6. Slightly tighten the stem onto the fork steerer tube, so that the bars do not move easily.
5. Assemble the front wheel
1. Take the plastic caps off the axle, they are not needed any further.
2. On STINGER models- there is an included rotor spacer that needs to be added
1. Remove the 6 bolts holding the rotor to the hub. Careful! There is 6 thin washers
behind the rotor, we still need these!
2. Place the wheel on a flat surface, such as a workbench or the ground, with the rotor
flange facing up
3. Place the 6 washers onto the hub centering them over the bolt holes
4. Carefully add the round silver TRP spacer on top of the washers again aligning the
bolt holes
5. Place the rotor over the spacers
6. Reinstall the 6 bolts
3. Place the wheel into the fork, taking care to place into the brake and between the pads
properly
4. Use either the supplied bike spikes, or standard bolts, and use the hook washers into the
holes into the fork, then bolt the wheel in place using a 15mm wrench.
6. Assemble the seat
1. Loosen the seat clamp using a 14mm wrench, to allow rotation of the seat post on the
seat.
2. Placing the saddle on a flat surface, rotate the post until it is at a 45 degree angle
pointed towards the nose/front of the saddle.
3. Tighten the seat clamp. (Final angle and height adjustments will occur in the final
adjustment phase)
4. Take grease, and apply a light coating on the first inch of the seat tube of the bike frame
to prevent corrosion.

5. If the seat post clamp is not installed on the frame, install it at this time.
6. Take the seat and seat post and insert it into the frame.
7. Tighten the quick release to allow the cam actuation to lock the post into the frame so
that it cant twist easily.
7. Install pedals
1. Each pedal is marked with a sticker denoting left and right. The right side of the bike is
the side with the chain.
2. Take the right side pedal, add a small amount of grease to the threads, and thread it into
the crank
3. Do the same with the left pedal
4. Use a 15mm wrench to tighten each pedal
8. Install reflectors (US DOT safety standards recommends all bikes have
reflectors)
1. The white reflector is installed onto the fork. A bolt, nut and washers are included in the
parts box for its installation.
2. The red reflector clamps onto the upper section of the seat post approximately 1 inch
below the saddle if possible.
Part 2: Final Adjustment
1. Handlebars
1. We normally position the handlebar perpendicular to the ground on a mens bike, and
leaning a few degrees backward on a ladies bike. Use a 4mm Allen key on the front
cap of the stem, take care not to over tighten as this is billet aluminum.
2. Sight through the stem to the front wheel and adjust the stem for straightness. Use a
6mm allen to tighten the two pinch bolts on the stem.
3. Brake levers- using a 4mm allen, loosen and rotate the levers to a desired angle and
then tighten. 6 nm or 50 in pounds torque.
4. If necessary, the grip shift can be loosened and rotated, and retightened. Do not over-
torque as it can break the plastic housing.
2. Brake Calipers
1. Thread the caliper bolts in, until the caliper movement is restricted, but still able to
move slightly.
2. Sight through the brake, observing the space between the pads and the rotor. Your
goal is to rotate the caliper so that there is equal space between the pads and rotor on
both sides. We find using a brightly colored piece of paper on the floor helps us see
the light between the pad and rotor.
3. Tighten the caliper fixing bolts slightly, ensuring that adjustment remains constant.
4. Repeat tightening once you are sure the caliper is at the correct angle.
5. It may be necessary to bend the caliper mount arm slightly to true up the angle the
caliper is at so the pads hit the rotor evenly.
6. Repeat this process on the rear brake.

3. Headset
1. This is the easiest adjustment. If the slack of the stem and spacers on the fork is
removed, then we need to fine tune the tension.
2. Loosen the 2 6mm pinch bolts on the stem to allow the stem to move
3. With a 5mm Allen, add tension to the top cap
4. To test proper tension, lock the front brake ONLY and rock the bike forward and
backward. If the headset is loose, the play can be felt during rocking. Tighten the top
cap tension until any play is removed
5. Tighten the two pinch bolts after straightening the stem
4. Seat
1. With the bike flat on the ground, crouch down and sight across the saddle from the
side of the bike.
2. At the most, the saddle tip and rear should be level. We normally adjust the tip down
1-2 notches.
3. Tighten the saddle clamp bolt to 20 nm or 180 in pounds
4. Seat height is by personal preference. For longer distance riding, aim for the seat to
be slightly higher, allowing for more complete extension of the leg. Your leg should not
lock out, but have a 5-10 degree bend at the knee with the ball of the foot on the
pedal.
5. Gear Adjustment (3 Speed)
1. By hand, pop the black protective cover off the adjuster area on bikes equipped with a
Sturmey Archer hub.
2. Loosen the fine tune adjuster 5- 7 turns. This adjuster is threaded in quite far from the
factory.
3. In first gear on the shifter, take the front macro adjuster, and thread it out to remove
the excess slack in the cable. 3-4 threads should be showing on the back side of the
black arm.
4. With the fine tune adjuster, tighten until you see the shifter pin chain start to move
slightly.
5. Tighten the lock nuts to finger tight and snap the protective cover back in place.
6. Gear Adjustment (7+ Speed)
1. Start the adjustment with the chain on the smallest rear gear
2. Without pedaling click the shifter for one gear easier. Begin to pedal.
3. If the chain does not immediately jump to the next gear, adjust the cable tension. From
the back looking to the front of the bike, twist the cable adjuster counter clockwise 1
turn.
4. Click the shifter for the next gear easier
5. f the chain does not immediately jump to the next gear, adjust the cable tension.
From /2the back looking to the front of the bike, twist the cable adjuster counter
clockwise 1 turn.
6. Repeat until it shifts immediately
7. Now shift to a harder gear. If it hesitates to move to the harder gear, the cable is
slightly too tight, twist the cable adjuster a 1/2 turn clockwise
8. Small adjustments go far in this process.

7. Tires
1. We prefer the tire pressure to be set at 30 psi. Out of the box, the pressure is usually
at 10 psi.
2. Adding 5 pounds at a time, slowly inflate the tires. Ensure that the tire seats evenly on
the rim.
3. If necessary, using the palm of your hand, push in on the tire where the bead is too far
outside the rim. The rib at the tire bead should be exposed 1-2 mm all around, in an
even fashion.
4. Add another 5 pounds, and again ensure even seating of the tire.
5. Repeat this process until the tires reach 30 psi. If the tire looks uneven, remove air
and try to reseat. Painted rims are more slick, and the tire bead can slide during
inflation.
8. Battery
1. The batteries arrive in a slightly discharged state
2. During setup, the batteries have enough power to turn on and tune, and perhaps a
test ride.
3. Full charge on 48v systems is 54.6v. The system is designed to shut off on low
voltage of around 42v to protect itself
4. Complete charge time is usually less than 5 hours dependent on environment and
battery status.
5. The charge port is on the lower right side of battery under a black protective dust cap
6. We recommend plugging the charger in first to the battery, then to a wall outlet
7. If you wish, you can use a light timer to control charging of the battery in a 1 hr on 1hr
off interval. This can prevent overcharging, and improve the life of the battery
9. Display
1. Videos of the settings are available on our website
2. Power the bike/display on
3. Within the first 5 seconds press and hold the M button to the left of the power button
until the settings menu appears.
4. On the first screen we are concerned with two settings, System and Battery. Tap the
M button again to allow System to be changed from metric to imperial. Hit M again to
exit out of the change. If you have a 52v based bike, you can change Battery in the
same manner to 52v from 48v.
5. Use the + key to advance to more and hit M. A password is required here which is
1919 which can be entered with the + - and the M key.
6. On the Advanced menu, the Wheel Size can be set. Due to our larger tires we
normally choose 28 for the 2.8 width, and 29 if you have a 3.5” tire size.
7. Additionally, the Speed Limit can be changed here. 99 KPH is max on this setup
which removes any speed limitations.
8. Please do not change any other settings. Although if you want to modify Assist, you
can do so. Assist just divides up the power levels into larger or smaller chunks.
Whatever the largest number shown is, will be 100%.
Your new Soul Beach Cruiser is now ready to ride. We recommend checking torque and
adjustment after the first ride, and then again after 20 rides.

While electric bikes can certainly get wet we recommend trying to stay out water as much as
possible. If heavier dirt or mud is present, you can hose the bike off but refrain from spraying
any jets of water at the components or bearings. We recommend using microfiber cloth and mild
cleaners like window cleaner for general cleaning. Try to refrain from getting the display wet.
While it is hard to remove, we recommend putting a plastic bad over it if it will be exposed to
rain.
Assembly and adjustment videos are available on our website. If you need further support,
please feel free to contact us via email or phone.