SoundTraxx Tsunami TSU-AT1000 Installation and operating instructions

Athearn RTR EMD GP35
Tsunami Digital Sound Decoder Installation Notes
Overview
This application note describes how to install a
TSU-AT1000 into an Athearn HO Ready-To-Roll
EMD GP35.
Skill Level 2:The entire installation can be
completed in one to two hours with no
modification required to the model.
Bill of Materials
P.N. Description
828039 TSU-AT1000 for EMD 567D Turbo
810113 16mm x 35.1mm Oval Speaker
Evergreen P.N.
9030 0.030”Sheet Styrene
For your convenience, Evergreen part numbers have
been listed above. Please visit their website at
www.evergreenscalemodels.com
Tools You Will Need
■25 W Soldering Iron
■Rosin Core Solder
■Wire Strippers
■Wire Cutters
■X-Acto Knife with #11 Blade
■Miniature Screwdriver Set
■Metal Straight Edge
■Dial Calipers
■Aquarium Sealant or Clear Silicone
■Liquid Plastic Cement
■Insulative Electrical Tape
■Double-Sided Foam Tape
■Masking Tape
■Small Pliers
■30-32 Gauge Wire

Installation
1. Begin with removing the couplers and coupler
boxes. Unscrew the center screws of the boxes
and gently pull the coupler boxes from each
end. (Photo 1)
2. The shell should lift off easily. Take care when
removing the shell since the wires for the front
and rear headlight are connected to the light
board that is attached to the top of the motor.
(Photo 2)
3. Begin removing the small black clips attached
to the ‘light board’ that hold the wires in
place. Be sure to note the function of each
wire. Labeling with masking tape will make
reassembly much easier later. (Photo 3)
4. Once all wires have been disconnected, the
board can be removed. There is a clip on the
bottom of the board that snaps onto a second
clip on top of the motor. This clip also acts as
the motor positive lead (M+). Unsnap the clip
off and remove the board. (Photos 4 and 5)
5. After the circuit board has been removed, the
M+ lead will need to be replaced. On top of
the motor there is a copper clip, which should
carefully be removed as there is a small spring
residing below. Using a small pair of pliers,
grasp the long end of the clip (indicated by the
arrow in the photo) and slowly twist up and
away from the mounting so that the spring
slowly decompresses and does not fly up from
the model. (Photos 6 and 7)
Photo 1
Photo 2
Photo 3
Photo 4
Photo 5
Photo 6
Photo 7

9. Unclip the retainer holding the worm gear to
the top of one of the gear towers by spreading
out the sides and lifting them free. Pull out the
driveline from the flywheel. (Photos 11 and 12)
10. Lift out the motor and the other driveline will
fall out from the flywheel. (Photo 13)
11. Note that the bottom of the motor is an
uninsulated clip, which is separated from the
frame by a small air gap. If this gap is bridged,
the decoder could be damaged. To ensure
that this will not happen, place a small strip of
electrical insulative tape along the bottom of
the frame as shown. This will guarantee the
motor is fully insulated from the frame.
(Photo 14)
6. Once the clip has been removed, solder a
3”piece of 30-32 gauge wire to the top of the
clip so that it extends over the long end. After
soldering the wire on, wrap the connection
with insulative tape to protect the connection.
Be sure the area where the spring contacts the
clip is not covered with tape, or the motor will
not function. (Photo 8)
7. Once done, remount the clip to the motor.
(Photo 9)
8. Steps 8 through 10 are recommended to
ensure the reliable operation of the decoder.
Remove the motor by removing the four screws
under the body that hold the motor mounts to
the frame. (Photo 10)
Photo 8
Photo 9
Photo 10
Photo 13
Photo 11
Photo 12
Photo 14

12. Reinstall the motor in the frame. Be sure to
insert the drive shaft into the flywheel before
reinstalling the screws for the motor mounts.
Install the driveline removed in Step 6 and
replace the retainer clip to hold the worm gear
and the other driveline in place.
13. Using double-sided foam tape, mount the
decoder to the top of the motor. Be sure the
M+ wire that was added in Step 11 comes out
on the proper side of the decoder to attach to
the M+ tab on the decoder. (Photos 15 and 16)
14. Solder the wires for the track pickup and motor
to the respective terminals. There is only one
track negative (-) lead attached to the frame.
Solder this to the proper tab.
15. Test the model for proper operation by placing
it on the mainline and running it in forward and
reverse. There will be no lights or sound yet.
Correct any problems now.
16. The speaker for this installation is a small oval
speaker. Start by soldering two 6”pieces of
30-32 gauge wire to the terminals on the
speaker. Since we are using only one speaker,
polarity is not important. (Photo 17)
17. Next, cut the sides and top for the styrene
baffle following the template at the end of this
document. Using liquid plastic cement, secure
the styrene pieces around the sides of the
speaker. (Photo 18)
18. Thread the wires for the speaker through two of
the mounting holes in the speaker frame, and
then cement the top on to the assembly. File
or sand the joints smooth for easier handling.
(Photo 19)
19. Secure the speaker assembly into the top of
the model facing upward (if the radiator fans
are open; face down if fans are closed). Secure
in place using silicone and allow to fully cure
before moving on.
Photo 15
Photo 16
Photo 17
Photo 18
Photo 19

20. This model is equipped with 1.5V bulbs. The
TSU-AT1000 has a provision for use with 1.5V
bulbs without the need for additional resistors.
Take one wire from each of the headlights and
solder to tab 3. Take one wire from each of
the backup lights and solder to tab 8. Take the
remaining four wires (two from the headlights
and two from the backup lights) and solder to
the 1.5V common on the side of the decoder.
(Photo 20)
21. Solder the speaker wires to the S+ and S-
terminals. Since only one speaker is being used,
polarity is not important. (Photo 21)
22. Take the capacitor and place it to just hang off
the front of the decoder. Tape in place if desired.
Replace the shell and test run the locomotive to
be sure there are no wires rubbing against the
drive mechanism or motor. Select address 3 on
the mainline and ensure the motor, sound, and
lights function properly. Correct any problems
encountered now.
23. Replace the coupler boxes on each end. Test run
again. All that is left to do now is to program
the address and enjoy!
Photo 20
Photo 21

®
New Dimensions in Digital Sound Technology
Speaker baffle dimensions:
©2013 Throttle Up! Corp.
All Rights Reserved
0.3” 0.3” 0.3” 0.3” 0.71”
0.63”
1.46” 1.46”
Front
Right Pickup
Front
Left Pickup
Rear
Right Pickup
Rear
Left Pickup
Motor
1.5V Common
Function Common
Headlight Backup Light
1 2 3 4
10
7 8 9
FWD
REV A
LED2
5 6
Motor -
Motor +
TSU-AT1000 dimensions
141 Burnett Drive • Durango, CO 81301
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Email: supp[email protected] • Website: www.soundtraxx.com