Spirit Halloween Spirit Ghost Trap Wheels Upgrade kit User manual

Introduction
Congratulations on purchasing the Spirit Ghost Trap Wheels Upgrade kit that makes your trap
wheels look much more like the screen used ghost traps from the Ghostbusters movies.
The photos are of a Spirit Halloween Ghost Trap that has the GhostLab42 Spirit Ghost Trap
Cosmetic kit installed. After the cosmetic upgrade, the wheels just had to be upgraded…
Here is the trap with the new Wheels Upgrade kit installed:
Here is a reference photo of the screen used pack (GB2) that shows a wheel assembly:

Installation in the Spirit Halloween Pack
Parts Identification:
There are multiple parts included in this kit. Here are the parts laid out somewhat grouped by
what area of the trap they are going to upgrade:
Parts:
1) 3D printed main axel assembly (same as #2)
2) Main axel assembly (same as #1)
3) 8x short screws to attach the two axels (#1 and #2) to the bottom of the trap
4) 4x new wheels with ball bearings (some grease may be noticeable from the races)
5) 4x 3D printed wheel alignment pieces to be inserted into the wheels #4
6) 4x Long screws to attach wheels #4, with alignment pieces #5 into main axils #1 and #2.
7) 4x washers to go on long screws #6 and hold the wheel assemblies in place.

Recommended tools and supplies:
•3/32” Allen wrench (Hex Wrenches)
•9/64” Drill bits
•Rotary power tool (such as a Dremel) with sanding bits
•Small flat file

Remove the existing wheels:
Just pop off the two sets of wheels. They are held on by friction clips, so you can grab one
wheel and pop that one side out just a little (enough to clear the retention clip) and then pull on
the other wheel and pop out the other side.
Yes, this is a picture of a plain Spirit Halloween Ghost Trap –I forgot to get the picture of the
trap with the cosmetic kit before I removed the original wheels.
These features that held the axel in place will need to be removed:

Prepare the base of the trap:
Next use the Dremel to cut and grind the 4 clips off that were used to mount the original wheels
by holding the thin metal axel.
Once nearly flat, I used a small flat file to make sure the area where the wheels will be mounted
were smooth and flat so the main axels (#1 and #2) can sit flat on those areas.