Sterling Ab1290 Service manual

STERLING POWER PRODUCTS

ALTERNATOR - to - BATTERY CHARGER

Advanced charging technology

Installations Instructions

& manual

Installations- und

Bedienungsanleitung

AB1290

AB12160

AB2460

AB24120

REMOTE CONTROL (OPTION)

ORDER NO: ABRC

Battery-Battery

Charger

Sterling power products CE

on/off

light

alarmalarm

Alarm shutdown

System disengaged

Low input voltage

System o.k.

14.4 V timer

40.2 A 134 min

200 amp shunt

Pro Digital

Advanced Digital Voltage Amplifier 10 All yellow circles with numbers

on them are referenced to the

installation drawing on page 5

What does it do:

A.G.M./sealed. This has a charger voltage of about 14.1 volts

The clever part:

(see the Sterling universal digital alternator regulator range).

To install the unit:

The solution:

The worry:

Extra wiring to enhance the performance of the unit

Battery temp:

Alternator high temp disengage

Installation:

Program the battery type into the unit: Domestic sense:

NON SEALED LEAD ACID:

GEL / EXIDE SPECIFICATION: Starter solenoid:

This unit is a combined split charge diode system and a voltage amplifier.

The unit comprises of one alternator input and two battery bank outputs. GEL/ U.S.A. SPECK. For some reason the gel is different in the

The output marked starter battery is a straight channel through a diode U.S.A. and they have asked for a lower charge voltage of 14.1 volts at a

which has no boost function as it is the channel that must be connected to different time setting which then drops to float.

the boat/vehicle engine system , most vehicle E.C.U. systems cannot deal

with a high input voltage because this would set off alarms in the E.C.U.

system (engine electronic management system). The assumption we are

making is that the channel marked domestic battery is independent from

the engine starter system and that none of the engine management system

is connected to it (a common negative is alright and essential for the

system to work). The base operation of this system is very straight My advice is to use the open lead acid batteries wherever possible as they

forward: Simply an alternator with a split charger diode system with two are also the lowest cost-avoid gel by far (the worst type of batteries are

outputs. sealed/a.g.m.). Install the unit as close as possible to the alternator and

batteries (taking into account the above requirements). If you need to fit it

First of all, let me explain why in an enclosed engine room (e.g. in a small yacht where the engine room

is fully enclosed with sound proofing - where I come from this is called an

oven :-), then try to install any equipment as low as possible, ideally

wever, this is not always easy to fit, and with some modern vehicle outside the engine room near to the battery box. (On a separate note:

engine management systems and warrantees it may also not be possible to Always remember that the only air-cooled item in the engine room is your

fit. There are two ways to get the maximum out of an alternator: Either alternator which means that if you have a totally sealed room you should

increase the voltage coming out of the alternator (fit an advanced not be surprised if you go through alternators on a regular basis. If the

alternator regulator) or pull the alternator’s voltage down so that the engine room is sealed, then put a vent tube from outside to the back of the

alternator’s own regulator works at full performance. Both of the above alternator. This will enable the alternator to suck air through the back to

options work as far as maximising the alternator output is concerned. cool itself and you will not experience any alternator problems.)

However, with the second option (pulling the alternator voltage down)

you would find that even though you have maximised the alternator’s 1) Connect the main alternator output (B+) to the centre stud marked

performance as intended, you have also ended up with a voltage and alternator input and then simply connect the other two studs, one to the

current which are absolutely useless for battery charging purposes. A engine battery and one to the domestic battery. Please ensure that the

standard alternator is set at about 14 volts. So if we pull the voltage down cable used can carry the full current of the alternator. It is always best to

to 13 volts to maximise the alternator’s current, then 13 volts is no good have 2 x plus the capability to reduce voltage drops, i.e. if you have a 70

for charging batteries fast. (Calm down, you haven’t wasted your money amp alternator, then use a 140 amp cable.

on this thing :-) 2) The unit has a smaller negative wire which requires a 60 amp cable and

If you pulled the voltage down and ended up with a useless should be connected directly to the alternator negative at the alternator

voltage as described above, but thereafter amplified the voltage from 13 to case or negative stud. This wire is a lot smaller than the alternator cable

14 .8 volts and fitted a 4-step digital control system (as used by our which may sound confusing as you would think that if you had a 100 amp

battery chargers and advanced regulators), then you would have the alternator with a 200 amp cable on the positive, then you would require a

benefits of pulling the alternator down as well as the benefits of the 200 amp cable on the negative (don’t ask as it would take a book to

advanced regulator - all in one box. explain, but just trust me that the smaller cable is alright).

The only concern with the above-detailed system is that it 3) If you already have a split charger diode, then the three positive cables

may have negative effects on the engine start battery which at the end of are already there. Simply replace the diode with this unit and connect the

the day is the most important battery. We have therefore incorporated two negative.

software functions into our design which will ensure that the battery For the basic installation ‘that’s it’, ‘job done’. Simply switch on the

remains fully charged. The amplifier is not used for the first 2.5 minutes engine and the software will fire up the unit, ‘and away it goes’.

(the top green light will flash to show that the system is working) and

even though the software is in control, it is not doing anything in order to In order to improve the performance of this unit we have added extra

ensure that a maximum amount of amps are fed into the starter battery features which all help, but are not required for the unit to work.

which in turn allows the battery to recover in the fastest time possible. The Simply connect one of the enclosed temperature

amplified section is then switched off every 15 minutes (for another 2.5 sensors to a battery terminal post (negative or positive) and to the two

minutes) to ensure that the engine start battery is alright. The unit small terminals marked battery temp and the system will pick up the heat

(when on maximum amplification) has the ability to pull the alternator through the lead. The output voltage will be reduced in accordance with

down to 10 volts which would result in the loss of the engine start system. the manufacturers’ battery charging temperature curves and in the event of

Similarly, if you were to put a heavy load on the engine system (such as the battery temperature increasing due to battery failure and the

putting on the headlights of a vehicle), then you would lose the engine temperature reaching in excess of 50 deg c (major problem), the unit will

battery which obviously is not acceptable. In order to overcome this switch off the amplifier. (However, the straight through path from the

problem, we have therefore added a low volts regulator on the vehicle alternator is still connected which means that if the problem which has

battery so that it will never go below 13 volts. Even when the alternator is caused the batteries to overheat is the failure of your standard

completely exhausted, the engine system will always have power priority, regulator in the alternator, we will give a warning, but won’t be able

despite the fact that the other side is much more powerful. As you can see to stop it).

from the graphs of an actual test run, the vehicle’s battery continues to

charge even when the boost is working at full power. :This is another temp sensor

(supplied) that should be connected to your alternator output post (B+)

The installation process is very easy. If you already have a split diode, and which will disengage the amplifier in the event of the alternator

then it’s simple; if not, just follow the instructions. Install the unit in a reaching 100 deg c. This will not set off an audible alarm, but simply

cool, dry and well-ventilated position as it is not waterproof, and please indicate the problem with a l.e.d. The remote (if fitted) will then show

make sure not to fit it in a box as the heat produced by the unit must be when the alternator has cooled down enough for the system to

got rid of. automatically re-engage and carry on its work.

Go to the battery type, The unit comes as standard with the facility to sense

program the dip switches on the unit and set the battery type. There are all the control voltages at the unit. However, if you would like to sense the

three main types of battery: voltage at the domestic battery directly in order to overcome the voltage

(or sealed lead acid where you can drops in the cable run drops, then simply connect a cable from the

unscrew the lid of the battery and top it up with water): This type of domestic sense connection directly to the domestic battery

battery has a long life and is the best for fast charging (max voltage 14.8).

Some alternators cannot work if there is no voltage

Always remember that fast charging costs water, so if the battery is

sealed and you cannot top up the water then do not use it for fast

charging. Open lead acid batteries are best for domestic systems.

the most effective way to get the most

out of your alternator system is to use an ‘Advanced’ alternator

regulator

see the basic installation drawing

down by Exide for its gel batteries. Basically it is 14.4. volts for about

10-14 hourss, regardless of the state of the batteries, then it drops to

float

with a

software timed cycle which then drops to float at about 13.5 volts.

Most so-called a.g.m. batteries are in fact only sealed lead acid.

This is the new specification laid

Sterling power products CE

on/off

light

alarmalarm

System trip

System Disengaged

temp

4a+b

set up

3a+b

Low voltage warning

System within limits

Screen

Main

Eng

Dom 12.3v 50A

Alt 12.8v 50A

Start 12.7 4A

Timer: 134 m

Alt Temp + 20C

Bat Temp + 20C

Case LHS + 17C

Case RHS + 23C

Alt Controller

Power 13% Bost

System set:12v

Bat Type : Wet

Dom 12.3v 50A

Alt 12.8v 50A

Screen1:

Screen2:

Screen 3a:

Screen 3b:

Screen 4a:

Screen 4b:

Push button marked Main 1. This is the main screen and the one it is best to leave the unit on.

It shows the domestic battery voltage and current as well as the alternator output current and

voltage

Push button marked Eng 2. This shows the engine battery voltage and current. It also shows

the time calculation for the high charge rate and the count down to the float charge.

Push button marked Setup 3 a+b: There are two screens on this button. Push once for screen

‘a’, then once again for screen ‘b’. Screen ‘a’ shows the system setup, e.g the system is a 12 v

system and the battery type selector is for wet (conventional lead acid). This refers to the

domestic battery only.

Push button marked Setup 3a+b: There are two screens on this button. Screen ‘b’ shows the

effective boost being delivered at this time and ranges from 0% (during the rest periods and on

float) to 100% when system on full power.

Push button marked Temp 4a+b: There are 2 x screens on this button. Push once for screen a,

then again for screen b. Screen a shows the alternator temp and the domestic battery temp, if

the temperature sensors are not fitted it will default to 20 deg c

Push button marked Temp 4a+b: There are two screens on this button. Push once for screen

‘a’, then again for screen ‘b’. Screen ‘b’ shows the box heat sink temperatures. LHS stands for

left hand side. Guess what RHS stands for :-)

Do not expect these to be the same temperature.

on/off: This switches off the unit boost

aspect, but cannot prevent the standard

diode splitting from working. The

monitoring functions remain on, and the

only way to know if the unit is switched off

is by checking that the system within limits

(l.e.d.) is off and that the boost off is on

screen 3b.

Alarm: This mutes the alarm system.

Back ground light: This switches the

background light on and off.

Optional Extra Remote control kit includes parts: see page 4

Remote Panel

200 amp shunt

pre made cable

Advanced Digital Split Charge

Alternator Voltage Amplifier

on their main B+ terminal which fires up the alternator. This is easy to see

because when you fit a spit charge diode there is no feed on the B+ which

in turn means that the engine will start, but that the alternator may not

work. If this is the case, the way to overcome this is to use the starter

solenoid feed. This is a simple feed that connects the terminal on the

starter motor and which only becomes live when the starter motor bendix

is engaged (i.e. the first two seconds of having the ignition key fully on). As soon as the unit is connected it senses the output voltage from the

Then when the starter is disengaged, the point becomes dead. What alternator, so when the alternator starts up, there will be a slow flashing of

actually happens is that a 12 volt feed is sent to the alternator B+ terminal the top green l.e.d. This confirms that the unit is working (even though it

for the starter duration (which is enough) and that then fires up the remains inactive for the first 2.5 minutes to allow a little time for the

alternator. After this the alternator then looks after itself. engine battery to recover). After this time period the green light will

discontinue flashing and display a continuous green instead. The chances

An optional extra with this unit is are that the engine load will increase. The system is then on constant

the remote control kit which comes complete with a remote display and current and the unit should be boosting the current into the domestic

two 200 amp shunts plus two 150 amp cable link wires.

battery bank. This high current will continue for about 15 minutes after

The two shunts measure both the domestic and the engine battery which it will stop for 2.5 minutes in order to ensure that the engine battery

current, and the software works out the alternator current. The remote is alright. Once the domestic battery reaches 13.9 volts, the trimer l.e.d.

measures things such as voltages and temperatures, and in the event of a will come on and the high charge rate will continue for the time from

problem it does not only display what the problem is, but also what needs switch on to 13.9 volts x 10, with a minimum of one hour and a maximum

to be done about it. of six hours. The rest periods every 15 minutes for 2.5 minutes are also

taken into account during this period

If on start-up nothing happens, then:

The remote kit comes with the two shunts, plus two heavy connector 1) Test the alternator voltage. It should be about 13.8 volts, but if it isn’t

cables . It is very important that the small sensor cables you need to fit are then the unit is at fault.

connected the right way round as otherwise the current readings will not 2) If the alternator voltage is below 10 volts, then the alternator is either

be correct. Look at the p.c.b drawing. with the and markings and defective, or it may not be working because it needs 12 volts on the B+

connect the sensor cables to the shunt in the correct position as per the terminal for it to work successfully. To check if this is the case, simply

drawing on the full installation drawing, use low current 3-5 amp cable short out between the alternator connection and one of the battery

connections in order to set 12 volts up the alternator cable. If the alternator

Internal adjustments (not required as fires up and everything works, then look at the extra terminal marked Ing

standard). feed, and connect this to the starter motor solenoid engagement as per the

instructions. This will shoot 12 volts up the line to fire up the alternator.

3) The unit needs about 12.6 volts on the alternator to work as failure to

reach this voltage will prevent the amplifier from coming on line.

However, the basic split charge diode should still be operating.

4) If there are 14 volts going into the unit and only 12.6 or less coming

out, then the diodes have failed and the unit needs to be repaired.

Start-up and test procedure:

Remote control kit:

Install shunts: for remote panel ( optional extra )

Shunt type adjustments:

switching on the switch number 1 on the regulation voltage, the engine

battery is dropped from 13 to 12.8 volts which in turn improves the boost

effect from the unit.

This unit comes set up for the standard Sterling 200 amp shunt

(1 mv = 1 amp), however, it can be re-programmed to accept a 500 amp

shunt (0.1 mv = 1 amp). Make sure that you do not make adjustments

unless you fully understand how to. If in doubt, please call us for help.

Most regulators come as standard between about 13.8 and 14.4 volts. If

the standard regulator is not within its limits and has a low voltage

performance of below 13.8, the unit may not work as well as it could. By

Warning: Do not do this unless you have the above-

described problem as this could result in a low engine start battery

performance.

Low alternator regulator adjustment: (standard set switch 1 off)

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