Stevens Aero Model RV-4 User manual

- 1 -
RV-4
1:8 Scale Speed 300 Sport Aerobat
S300 (R2.04)
Span 34.5” / Length 30.5” / Area 250 Sq.” / Weight 14.5-16.5oz
Copyright 2005 – Stevens AeroModel All Rights Reserved.

- 2 -
Overpowering this model with a heavier / more powerful system is not recommended.
WARRANTY
Stevens AeroModel guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship
at the date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use or
modification. In no case shall Stevens AeroModel’s liability exceed the original cost of the
purchased kit. Further, Stevens AeroModel reserves the right to change or modify this warranty
without notice.
In that Stevens AeroModel has no control over the final assembly or material used for final
assembly, no liability shall be assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from the use by
the user of the final user-assembled product. By the act of using the user–assembled product,
the user accepts all resulting liability.
If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, the buyer
is advised to return this kit immediately in new and unused condition to the place of purchase.
Copyright 2005 – Stevens AeroModel All Rights Reserved.

- 3 -
REQUIRED TO COMPLETE KIT:
Kit Contents:
1. Computer Drawn Plan Sheet (SA-PART-RV300/PLN)
2. Illustrated Instruction Manual (SA-PART-RV300/MAN)
3. Laser Cut Balsa and Ply Parts Sheets (See Parts Inventory Sheet)
4. 1 - Clear Canopy (SA-PART-RV300/CP)
5. 1 - Cowl Assembly 2 pcs. (SA-PART-RV300/CW)
6. Large Hardware Bag (SA-PART-HW/LG/01)
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
2 – Nylon Tube 1/32” ID x 11.5”.
2 – Piano Wire 1/32” x 11.5”
1 – Aluminum Tube 3/32” x 6”
2 – Birch Dowel 1/8” x 2”
2 – Birch Dowel 1/8” x 4.5”
1 – Velcro Sticky Back 1” x 4”
1 – Velcro Strap ½” x 25 yd.
1 – Rubber Bands #16 (12 ea.)
2 – Landing Gear Struts (WIRE-LG-01)
7. Small Hardware Bag (SA-PART-HW/SM/01)
4 – Sig Easy Hinge (CA Hinge Material)
1 – #30 Sanded Kevlar Tape
2 – Blind Nut 4-40 (Optional Bolt on Wing)
2 – 4-40 x 1” Nylon Wing Bolt. (Optional Bolt on Wing)
8 – Pan Head #0x3/16” Screw
1 – Aluminum Tube 1/16”x1/4”
Recommended Finishing Items:
1. GWS or Dubro DUB150MW 1.5” Mini lite wheels (2-Pack) if using wheel pants.
2. Sullivan or Dubro DUB12MTW 1/2” Micro Tail wheel and Retainer.
3. Dubro Micro Pull/Pull Assembly DUB846
4. Dubro Mini E/Z Connectors DUB845
5. 1 Roll of Solar Film (Solar Film So-Lite – Nelson Lite Film) Covering. (No other covering is recommended)
6. 40mm or 1.5” Spinner
Suggested Electronics:
1. 4 Channel Transmitter (Using Y-Servo Extension for Ailerons)
2. 4 - Sub Micro Servos (Hitec HS-55, GWS Naro HPBB, or JR 241)
3. 1 - 6” Y-Servo Extension
4. 2 - 6” Servo Extension
5. 1 - Micro Receiver
6. 1 - Micro ESC (10 Amp)
7. 1 - GWS EPS350C-CS Motor - Gear Box
8. 1 - GWS Slow-Fly Prop 9x7.
9. 1 - 8 Cell 650KAN NIMH.
Brushless Power Systems:
1. Himax 2015-5400 / GWS GB 6.6:1 / 10x6 GWS HD Prop / 3x1050 Apogee LiPoly.
1. Hacker A20-20L / Direct Drive / 9x4.5 E Prop / 3x1320 Thunderpower LiPoly - With optional mount kit.
Items You May Need:
1. Thin and Medium CA (super glue)
2. Five Minute Epoxy
3. Wax Paper or Plastic Wrap
4. Razor Blade(s)
5. Fine Grit Sand Paper
6. Rat-Tail File
7. Clear Tape
8. Balsa Wood Filler
Copyright 2005 – Stevens AeroModel All Rights Reserved.

- 6 -
GENERAL ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS:
Thank you, for purchasing this Stevens Aeromodel 1:8 Scale RV4 – Small Field Sport Plane. This kit provides the builder
and pilot a refreshing change of pace from heavy “ARF” style plywood box airframe construction and blends stick and
tissue design methods of the past with state of the art CAD technology and precision interlocking laser cut parts; the result
is something you will find truly exceptional to build and truly exceptional to fly. Please keep in mind that this kit is
intended for a novice-intermediate builder and novice-intermediate pilot as a second aileron plane. If you do not meet
these criteria it is recommended to seek help from a more experienced builder / pilot.
Best Regards,
Stevens AeroModel “Laser Engineered Kits”
4550 Beaumont Rd.
Colorado Springs, CO 80916
Assembly Tips
1. READ THE INSTRUCTIONS and the plan sheet prior to starting any work! Instructions are an evolving work.
We take customer feedback very seriously and occasionally amend the instructions to correct or clarify. Please
check www.stevensaero.com for any errata or instruction updates.
2. Tape plans to work table. Cover with wax paper or plastic wrap.
3. Join all joints with Thin CA unless otherwise specified.
4. DO NOT REMOVE THE PARTS FROM THE BALSA SHEETS UNTIL REQUIRED!
5. DO NOT FORCE THE FIT – when in doubt double check your parts - removal of material should not be
required. If you feel that you have a poor connection check first to see that the part is not upside down. Next,
reference each piece against the plan sheet.
6. This is very important so I’ll say it again - Prior to gluing, test fit and match parts over the plan sheet to ensure
you have the correct pieces and orientation.
7. Making solid glue joints: Hold parts together on top of plan sheet using moderate pressure to fit parts - wick thin
CA into joint. (There is no need to pin parts to work table as all pieces interlock and self - jig.)
Copyright 2005 – Stevens AeroModel All Rights Reserved.

- 7 -
Tail Feathers
1. Build the Rudder, Vertical Stabilizer, Elevator, and Horizontal Stabilizer. Parts are grouped according to tail
section component on the 1/8” balsa sheet. Work with each component separately. Assemble over plan sheet,
removing only those parts necessary to complete each individual component. Start each assembly by building
up the outside edges (just like a puzzle) – finish by inserting center truss parts. Though the parts fall together
and self jig, pay particular attention orientation and making solid glue joints.
B
AA
B
CC
DD
EE
FF
EECC
DD
AA
BB
3
32" Aluminium
Tube
Elevator
Horiz. Stab.
VerticalStab.
Rudder
AA
BB
EE
DD
CC
2. Elevator Joining Tube. Verify that the provided 3/32” aluminum tube is of the appropriate length and rough the
surface with fine grit sand paper to remove dirt, oil, and debris, from the tube. Wipe tube with rubbing alcohol,
then Using thin CA tack the joining tube to each elevator halve and allow to dry. Once dry use a small amount
of 5-minute epoxy to create a fillet between the wood and the metal tube.
3. Sand all surfaces with fine grit sand paper and bevel / taper hinged surfaces in preparation for your preferred
hinging method (CA Hinges Recommended).
Fuselage
Fuselage components are exceptionally brittle until the entire assembly is complete. Handle parts accordingly and do not
force the fit!
1. Remove parts F2, F4, F6, and F12 from the 3/32” balsa sheet and glue in the corresponding cross brace pieces
(cross braces are grouped with the part on the balsa sheet). Remove parts F19A-D and F23A-D from the 1/16”
balsa sheet; join parts over plan sheet to create former assemblies F19 and F23.
F19
F4
F2 F12
F6
F19A
F19B
F19C
F19D F19D
F19A
F23B
F23C F23C
F23A
F6
F23
2. New to this release of the RV-4 are provisions for a cleaner rudder pull/pull assembly. Previous versions of the
RV-4 had the rudder pull/pull exit the fuselage bottom (sharing a single exit tube) This system works well and
may still be employed but I have provided an optional method for a cleaner pull / pull install. This optional pull /
pull method has the rudder cables exiting each of the lower longerons and will require more patience when
fishing the pull/pull line through the fuselage. If you are relatively new to pull/pull I would recommend using the
original single tube method outlined later in this manual However, you may still complete this step in
anticipation of later exploring this option.
Copyright 2005 – Stevens AeroModel All Rights Reserved.

- 8 -
F19 and F23 both have provisions for running pull / pull cables in the form of two small holes on either side of
the former the holes are located in F19A and F23B. Thinking ahead to the pull/pull system (if you intend to run
pull / pull cables for the rudder and elevator) you will want to: First, harden the holes and surrounding balsa in
F19A and F23B with thin ca. Second cut up four ¼” segments of the provided plastic tubing and install into
each hole central to the former secure with thin CA (see illustration). These plastic tubes act as bushing to
route the pull/pull cable and prevent it from wearing through the balsa.
3. Locate fuselage side components grouped on the 1/8” balsa sheet. Truss-loc (d) Theory: To aid in assembly
we have etched a letter on each of the truss knuckle joints (get your glasses out they are small) – where two
truss diagonals meet and share a common joint there will be an alphanumeric etched on the knuckle – match
the corresponding alphanumeric A to A, B to B, C to C, etc. Also note that all of the interlocking v-notch
components for each truss diagonal run in the same direction with the point of the knuckle always pointing to
the nose of the aircraft. Assemble over plan sheet. Make two (2) fuselage sides.
BB DD
EE
AA
BB
CC
FS1
Note: The model was designed for speed 300 applications use of heavier motor combinations such as the
Hacker B20L, Mega 16/15x, GWS EPS 400C or other motors similar in weight will require relocating one or
more servos aft and external to the fuselage assembly. New to this release of the RV-4 we have provided an
optional servo tray that replaces the aft most truss diagonal of the fuselage assembly. This servo tray will allow
the user to mount one or more servos in the tail compensating for the additional nose weight of these heavier
power systems. If you plan to run such a power system it would be a good idea to build this component into
one of the fuselage halves. See illustration.
4. Locate parts F14A and F14B on the 1/8” balsa sheet; assemble together as indicated below to create lower
fuselage stringer F14.
F14A
F14B
Copyright 2005 – Stevens AeroModel All Rights Reserved.

- 9 -
Now that all of the major fuselage sub-assemblies are complete lets complete the fuselage assembly. Before we
begin I want to re-enforce a couple of key points –
Do not glue until you are instructed to do so. Failure to follow this instruction may cause the
moon to spiral away from the earth with each successive orbit. (I guess it is already too
late)
Pay particular attention to formers F1 and F2 these parts have a directional component (they
build in the proper thrust angle for the motor mount stick) – when working with F1 and F3 make
sure the etched word “FRONT” faces the nose of the aircraft.
This kit was manufactured with exceptional parts fit tolerances +/- 0.005” – this exceeds the
typical tolerance of the manufactured balsa stock. Often the stock is slightly thicker then the
manufacture claims. With this in mind it is very important that you do not force the fit of these
components, as you will risk splitting the wood. Most parts can be worked into position by
supporting the receiving component on a flat surface and rocking the part to add to the assembly
back and forth and go together with a small amount of squish which makes for a strong glue joint
– if you encounter excessive resistance – stop, remove the part and slightly sand the
piece, then try the fit again.
Do not attempt to wrap sheeting around a radius without first spraying the outside of the balsa
sheeting with glass cleaner solution (Windex).
5. Remove former F3 from the 1/8” balsa sheet. Support the fuselage side assembly on a flat surface, note the
forward orientation of part F3 – the side with the etched word “FRONT” must face the nose of the aircraft.
Friction fit F3 into position. Remove formers LG1 and LG2 from the 1/8” balsa sheet. Again, while supporting
the fuselage side assembly fit LG1 into position. Next, install LG2 spanning parts F3 and LG1 (see illustration).
Remove former F5 from 1/8” balsa sheet and friction fit into position at the leading edge of the wing saddle.
6. Next, install the opposite fuselage side. Support the assembly on a flat surface and slowly work into position go
slowly and make sure all the tab and notch pieces are properly aligned and seated. Do not force the fit and DO
NOT GLUE.
Copyright 2005 – Stevens AeroModel All Rights Reserved.

- 10 -
7. Locate the assembled 3/32” balsa fuselage former F4 and install to bottom of fuselage assembly spanning parts
F5 and F3.
8. Locate formers F2A and the assembled 3/32” balsa former F2. Friction fit F2 to bottom of fuselage assembly
spanning LG1, F1, and the fuselage sides. Key parts F2A into position spanning LG1 and F2 as illustrated.
9. Remove former F1 from the 1/8” balsa sheet and friction fit to fuselage assembly.
Copyright 2005 – Stevens AeroModel All Rights Reserved.

- 11 -
10. Temporarily tape the aft end of the fuselage sides together (be sure they are flush with each other) as this will
aid in creating a straight and true assembly. Set the fuselage assembly on flat surface standing up on its nose.
Make certain that the fuselage sides are square to the building surface (as it should be) if not look for
components that are not fit properly or have slipped from their tab and notch - adjust as required. Ensure the
parts fit is correct and that formers F1 and F3 are facing the appropriate direction (“Front” can be read from the
nose of the aircraft) begin to secure components with thin CA starting at each outer tab and notch point. Next
run thin CA along the inside joints. Ensure all parts have been secured with CA and move on to the next step.
11. Remove part F7 from the 1/16” balsa sheet and friction fit to fuselage sides spanning the top longeron as
indicated in the illustration. Remove F9 and F11 from the 1/8” balsa sheet and friction fit to fuselage sides on
the lower longeron.
12. Locate the 1/32” ply canopy tab / fuselage doublers CP1 and install into slot created between former F7 and the
fuselage sides. Gently pinch fuselage sides together and tack glue CP1 to the fuselage sides. Complete this
step securing parts F7, CP1, F9, and F11with thin CA.
13. Next remove the pre-cut 1/8” Sq. Stringer from the 1/8” balsa sheet. The stringer spans F1, F3, and F7 friction
fit into position. At this point also fit the 1/16” ply battery tray BT1 into position spanning F5, F9, and F11.
Complete this step by securing these parts with thin CA.
Copyright 2005 – Stevens AeroModel All Rights Reserved.

- 12 -
14. Remove from the 1/8” balsa sheet parts F10 and F13. Remove F15 from the 1/16” balsa sheet. Locate the
assembled 3/32” balsa formers F6 and F12. Friction fit F6 (servo tray) to Fuselage. Next, fit F15 spanning F6
and the fuselage sides along with F13 spanning bottom of fuselage sides at the trailing edge of the wing saddle.
The two F10 formers are then installed as gussets spanning F13 and the fuselage sides. Friction fit F12
spanning the top of F13 and picking up the fuselage sides. Note that F12 and F6 are beveled towards their aft
end and aid in creating the taper of the fuselage aft of the wing section. Check the fit of each component but
DO NOT GLUE.
15. Begin tack-gluing components starting at F11 then moving aft. When you reach parts F6, F15, and F12 it will
be necessary to gently pinch the fuselage sides flush with these formers prior to gluing (Hint wet the fuselage
sides at the bend point and wrap your thumb and fore-finger with saran-wrap or masking tape to keep from
sticking yourself to the fuselage while pinching the sides together and securing with CA). DO NOT let any glue
run into the taper or tab areas of parts F6, F15, or F12 until you have properly pinched/fitted the fuselage sides
to the formers. Revisit each glue joint that was tacked together and run glue along the inside joints.
16. Install servo rail doublers F6A and canopy tab CP2. Note the notching in F6A to accommodate the aft canopy
tab CP2. Test fit parts as shown in illustration then commit them to the structure with thin CA.
Copyright 2005 – Stevens AeroModel All Rights Reserved.

- 13 -
17. With the fuselage sides held together at tail position with tape, use a flat rat-tail file to bevel the notches and
alignment tabs in the fuselage to better accommodate the angular relationship of the tapered fuselage and
formers F17, F19, F21, F23, and F25. Do not make the notches deeper – just run the file straight across the
fuselage knocking the corners off of each notch – remove very little material (you can always go back for more).
18. Remove the tape from the aft end of the fuselage. Locate and remove parts F17, F21, and F25 from the 1/16”
balsa sheet. Locate previously assembled formers F19 and F23. Remove the temporary tape from the aft end
of the fuselage. Key in place, fore to aft, parts F17, F19, F21, F23, and F25 (note installation position of F25 in
photo – the part should extend beyond the top longeron but not below the bottom longeron.
Copyright 2005 – Stevens AeroModel All Rights Reserved.

- 14 -
19. Locate previously assembled part F14 and remove part F16 from the 1/8” balsa sheet. Install Part F16 along
the top of the fuselage spanning formers F15, F19, and F23. Fit part F14 to bottom of fuselage spanning F13,
F17, F19, F21, F23, and being captured by the fuselage sides at F25. Check to ensure that the entire
assembly is square and that each part is properly fit.
20. Next set the fuselage on your flat work surface placing a small amount of weight over the canopy / cockpit area.
Square the tail section to the worktable. I like to temporarily tape a square to the aft end of the fuselage and
wrap with tape. Inspect your work for proper fit at each joint. Move down the fuselage fore to aft inspecting and
tack gluing all former to fuselage joints aft of the wing. Remove the fuselage from the building table and flow
thin CA along the inside joints that you tack glued.
21. Remove parts F22 and F24 from the 1/8” balsa sheet. Key F22 to fuselage using the top of F25 as a guide and
secure to fuselage sides with glue. Next key F24 to the top of F22 using F25 as a guide – secure with glue.
Finally remove part F20 from 3/16” balsa sheet and secure inside aft end of fuselage on top of F14 and
captured by the fuselage sides and F25 (see illustration).
22. Remove the plywood Tail Wheel bracket F18 from the 1/16” ply sheet. Match end of “U-Channel” to 1/32” hole
in F14. Laminate to fuselage with thin CA.
Copyright 2005 – Stevens AeroModel All Rights Reserved.

- 15 -
23. Remove parts F26 and F28 from the 3/16” balsa sheet. Tab parts F26 into former F23 insert a piece of scrap
1/8” balsa in the gap created by F26 and F22 well clear of any joints to be glued – this scrap will set the spacing
for the horizontal stabilizer. Once satisfied with the fit tack glue F26 in place and remove scrap 1/8” balsa. Fit
parts F28 against F23 and flush with the edges of F26. Do not cover the 1/8” channel created by F26 as this is
where the vertical stabilizer will key (See Illustration).
24. Remove parts FS1 and FS2 from the 1/32” balsa sheet. Note that these parts are etched with an arrow
indicating the forward and center position when installed on the fuselage. Sheet fuselage top/front with FS1
and FS2. Test fit, wet with glass cleaner, secure one end with thin CA, and then gradually tack down the sheets
to the formers with your preference of thin or thick CA. I like to start at the side and work to the middle.
Copyright 2005 – Stevens AeroModel All Rights Reserved.

- 16 -
25. Classic Rudder Pull/Pull setup (does not exit through lower longerons): Prior to sheeting turtle deck rudder pull
/ pull tubing. Locate the .032” ID micro tubing provided in the hardware bag. Pre-harden the holes in F15, with
thin CA. Install optional Fuselage pull/pull exit guide between formers F19 and F21. The rudder pull / pull tube
should route through one of the 1/16” holes central to either elongated hole in F15 and exit the optional pull/pull
exit guide; extending approximately 1/2” below fuselage angling aft towards the rudder. Secure Pull/Pull tubing
with thin CA or a small dab of 5-Minute epoxy at each plastic to balsa joint.
26. Sheet the Turtle Deck with F18 (It helps to previously-sand the turtle deck slightly) If necessary, spray the
outside of the turtle deck with glass cleaner to soften wood and facilitate bending around the radius of the turtle
deck. Test fit – then secure one end with thin CA, gradually tack down the sheets to the formers with thin or
thick CA. Finally, trim and sand leading edge of turtle deck sheeting flush with the front of F15.
27. Carve and sand aft section of turtle deck round as shown.
Copyright 2005 – Stevens AeroModel All Rights Reserved.

- 17 -
Main Gear:
1. Build Landing Gear Brace: Using a pair of 1/8” drill bits or the provided 1/8” wing dowels align LG3 on top of
LG8 through 1/8” alignment holes. Laminate LG3 to LG4 (ply) with thin CA. Allow to dry completely. Do not
glue the second LG4 (ply) part at this time.
2. LG3 is made from 3/32” Balsa – which due to variances from the balsa supplier is not always 3/32” thick – most
often it is slightly thicker than 3/32”. To ensure that the completed landing gear slides into the gear brace with
minimum effort you will want to test fit the second LG4 (ply) part to the landing gear brace assembly. Slide the
landing gear brace assembly inside the landing gear block slot about ¼” (Do not press it all the way in).
There should be some friction – but the fit should not be overly snug (remember you may want to remove the
landing gear from the wing at some point). If the fit is too snug sand the 3/32” balsa piece down and test the fit
once again. Repeat until the block slides in with minimal friction.
3. Complete the landing gear brace by bending the 3/32” music wire gear legs as indicated on the plan sheet (note
that the swept back component of the gear leg should only be attempted by those accomplished at wire
bending) the sweep adds to the complexity and only serves a scale function – better ground handling and a
more robust landing gear assembly are achieved by leaving the sweep absent from the gear legs. Nest the
gear legs into the block then run thin CA over the boundary between the gear legs and the balsa. Next,
laminate LG4 over the assembly using the 1/8” drill bits to jig the fit. Drip thin CA into joint where gear legs exit
the landing gear brace. Allow gear brace assembly to dry completely then once again test the fit in the gear
block. Sand as required for a snug but smooth fit.
Copyright 2005 – Stevens AeroModel All Rights Reserved.

- 18 -
Motor Mount:
1. Assemble the motor mount stick. Start by building a tube from the four long pieces then tap the end pieces in
flush. Lay the friction fit mount on your worktable and tap all joints together to ensure the proper fit. Secure
with two applications of thin CA. Allow to dry then fit to fuselage ARROW FORWARD in the appropriate
position. Use the mount etched “GWS” to mount the GWS EPS-300C/EPS-400C motor systems (The left side
10mmx10mm mount holes should be used when mounting the Stevens AeroModel Hacker B20L and Mega
16/15/x modular plywood motor adapters). The fit will be snug through formers F1 and F3 – go easy here and
sand stick to fit if required. Slide GWS gearbox onto mount supporting the backside of the motor stick. IT IS
REQUIRED to drill a small hole through gearbox and stick, and secure with a screw, to ensure the motor
does not come off in-flight.
SA GWS
F1
FRONT
GWS EPS300C / EPS400C
Stevens AeroModel
Modular motor adapter.
For Hacker B20L 4:1 and Mega 16/15/X Direct:
1. The 1/16” ply motor mount adapter kit is available as a separate purchase from www.stevensaero.com or your
local hobby retailer. Assemble from instructions provided with mount kit.
2. Assemble the motor mount stick. Start by building a tube from the four long pieces then tap the end pieces in
flush. Lay the friction fit mount on your worktable and tap all joints together to ensure the proper fit. Secure
with two applications of thin CA. Allow to dry then fit to fuselage ARROW FORWARD in the appropriate
position. Use the mount etched “GWS” to mount the GWS EPS-300C/EPS-400C motor systems (The right
side 10mmx10mm mount holes should be used when mounting the GWS EPS-300C / EPS-400C gearboxes).
The fit will be snug through formers F1 and F3 – go easy here and sand stick to fit if required. Secure your BL
motor to the adapter and slide the entire assembly (motor can to the center of the airframe) onto mount stick
(support the backside of the motor stick when installing / removing adapter). IT IS REQUIRED to drill a small
hole through adapter and stick, and secure with a small screw, to ensure the motor does not come off
in-flight.
Copyright 2005 – Stevens AeroModel All Rights Reserved.

- 19 -
Wing
Assemble wing upside down - all rib pieces have built in jig and allow for a straight and true wing final assembly when built
in this fashion. Do not break jig off of rib pieces until you have completed wing assembly.
1. Locate the 3/32” main spar parts S1 and S2 and join to create main spar. Remove TE1 and TE2 from the 1/16”
balsa sheet and join to create trailing edge spar.
2. Build rib assemblies. Insert parts R0 into R2, R4, and R5 secure with thin CA.
3. Key wing ribs R1, R2, R3, R4, and R5 onto main spar. Make sure each rib is located in the appropriate position
(refer to plan sheet for order). Do not glue components at this time.
4. Build the leading edge. Remove part LE1 from the 1/16” balsa sheet and key it to ribs R1-R5 (Note: LE1 is
keyed to only fit one direction). Remove part LE2 from the 3/32” balsa sheet and key to wing assembly along
tabs in leading edge. Do not glue components at this time.
Copyright 2005 – Stevens AeroModel All Rights Reserved.

- 20 -
5. Remove parts TE5 and TE4 from the 1/16” balsa sheet and key to the trailing edge spar. TE5 spans the top of
the wing and TE4 spans the bottom – tack glue in place along tabs. Locate part TE3 on the 1/16” balsa sheet.
Locate TE3 in the center wing section spanning ribs R1 and align flush with the bottom of the trailing edge.
Laminate to the spar as shown. TE5 will then nest along the v-notch cut into TE3.
6. Support the center section of the wing on a flat surface. Double the backside of the center wing section with
part S4 1/16” spar doubler. Snug ribs S1 against the edges of S4 and proceed to laminate S4 into position
along the backside of the center section. Align center wing section over plan sheet and glue rib-spar and
leading / trailing edge joints.
7. Final Glue the wing. The Leading and trailing edge components should have done a nice job of jigging the
entire assembly together straight and true. However, you’ll want to verify the square ness of the wing and
secure each joint with thin CA while the wing is held to a flat surface. Each rib has a riser off its trailing edge
that aids in building a flat wing. Lay flat and align over plan sheet one half of the wing beyond the center
section (I like to place a small amount of weight over the wing to ensure it rests flat and true along the
worktable) – proceed to secure all joints with thin CA while checking the fit and alignment against the plan
sheet. Repeat the process for the opposite wing half.
8. Remove the 3/32” balsa parts CS1, CS2, CS3, CS3A, CS3B, CS4, and CS5. Tests assemble parts CS2-CS3B
and install into center wing section. Cap center wing section with CS5. Snug and align all parts into position
then, while supporting the wing center section on a flat surface, begin running glue into joints.
Copyright 2005 – Stevens AeroModel All Rights Reserved.

- 21 -
9. Install CS1 spanning both R1 ribs along center wing section.
10. Next, locate the 3/16” balsa part CS6 and laminate into position in front of CS5.
11. Locate part S3 on the 3/32” balsa sheet and laminate to groove along the top of the main spar spanning ribs
R1-R3.
Copyright 2005 – Stevens AeroModel All Rights Reserved.

- 22 -
12. Lay each wing halve flat on your work table and install each of the six (3 per side) turbulators (the turbulators
have been cut from 3/32” balsa sheet. Each turbulator will extend just past rib R5. Cut/sand the turbulators
flush with the outside edge of R5.
13. Assemble the servo mount. Remove parts S3A, S3B, and S3C from the 1/8” balsa sheet. Test fit components
S3A and S3B – secure with thin CA. Next fit both parts S3C (servo screw blocks) into position as shown in the
second photo – align S3C with the top edge of S3A and S3B – NOT THE BOTTOM – you want to create a
recess for the servo flange to fit into.
14. Remove parts R1A from the 1/16” balsa sheet and key into position (just outside of R1) as illustrated along the
backside of the trailing edge center section. Do the same for the opposite side of the center section.
Copyright 2005 – Stevens AeroModel All Rights Reserved.