Stevens Aero Model stik 2.0 User manual

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© 2006 Stevens AeroModel all rights reserved.
stik 2.0
Simple Aileron Trainer
V2.01
Span 40 in. / Length 34 in. / AUW 14-16 oz. / Area 350 sq. in. / For GWS EPS-350C-CS

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© 2006 Stevens AeroModel all rights reserved.
WARRANTY
Stevens AeroModel guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship
at the date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use or
modification. In no case shall Stevens AeroModel’s liability exceed the original cost of the
purchased kit. Further, Stevens AeroModel reserves the right to change or modify this warranty
without notice.
In that Stevens AeroModel has no control over the final assembly or material used for final
assembly, no liability shall be assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from the use by
the user of the final user-assembled product. By the act of using the user–assembled product,
the user accepts all resulting liability.
If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, the buyer
is advised to return this kit immediately in new and unused condition to the place of purchase.

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© 2006 Stevens AeroModel all rights reserved.
REQUIRED TO COMPLETE KIT:
Kit Contents:
Illustrated Instruction Manual
Laser Cut Balsa and Hardwood Parts Sheets (See Cut Parts Inventory Sheet)
Raw Materials (Taped to brick of wood)
•1 - 0.045” x 12” Music Wire
•2 - 0.045” x 24” Music Wire
•2 - 1/8” x 24” hardwood dowel.
Hardware Bag
•1 - Bag #16 Rubber Bands.
•4 - #2x3/16” Self Tapping Screws.
•4 - Du-Bro Micro2 Control Horns.
•4 - Du-Bro Micro2 EZ Links.
•2 - Rubber Wheel retainers (for main wheels)
•1 - Tail Wheel retainer (thick black plastic washer).
Finishing Items:
If you are not upgrading your existing GWS Slow Stick you will require the following:
1. GWS Slow Stick Assembly AS1 Fuselage with Hardware (GW/SLOW-STICK-AS1)
2. GWS Slow Stick Assembly AS3 Plastic Parts Tree (GW/SLOW-STICK-AS3)
To cover the model we suggest a light weight easy to apply iron on film.
3. One roll of AeroLITE covering available from www.stevensaero.com
Suggested Electronics:
1. 4-6 Channel Transmitter.
2. 4 - Hitec HS-55 Servos (use of HS-55 servos will negate the need for a long Y harness or servo extensions)
3. 1 - 3” Servo “Y” Harness (only required with use of non-computerized 4ch radio)
Items You May Need:
1. Thin CA (super glue) or White Glue
2. Plan/Table Protector (use the bag that this kit came in to protect your work surface from CA glue spills)
3. Razor Blade(s)
4. Med-Fine Grit Sand Paper and sanding block
5. Clear Tape ¾” Wide
6. 1/32” Drill Bit
7. Balsa Wood Filler

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© 2006 Stevens AeroModel all rights reserved.
INSTRUCTIONS:
The stik is an adaptation of Binkley’s ET (Electric Trainer) wing. Thomas Binkley devoted a
considerable amount of time to developing this wing and produced a set of hand drawn plans
from which a number of ET's were brought to life. At Tom’s request we jumped on the
opportunity to work the ET over into a great little laser cut balsa kit.
This product is targeted for a first time build and as such; features traditional Stevens AeroModel
laser engineered interlocking design techniques... the laser cut parts are keyed and labeled in
such a fashion as to reduce the possibility of building the wing incorrectly. The wing features
diagonal interlocking sub ribs to reduce the possibility of warping the assembly during the
covering process. Wood selection is top notch with appropriate grain, thickness, and density hand
selected to produce an efficient design that is minimizes weight while being exceptionally durable.
I sincerely hope you enjoy building and flying your stik electric aileron trainer.
Bill Stevens
[email protected]
Stevens AeroModel “Laser Engineered Kits™”
1528 S. Nevada Ave.
Colorado Springs, CO 80906

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© 2006 Stevens AeroModel all rights reserved.
Before You Begin
Before you begin aimlessly shaking the balsa bits from their sheets suggest you perform the
following steps:
1. Read these instructions thoroughly and Take a complete inventory of your kit and
compare your cut balsa sheets to the reference at the beginning of this manual.
Immediately contact [email protected] to report any damaged or missing
components.
2. While the parts are still retained within the balsa sheet use a fine grit sand paper and
lightly sand both sides of the sheet wood, this will remove any residue and discoloration
from the cutting process and will knock the grain down on the wood for better results
when covering. Tip! Do not get carried away here or you could significantly impact the
parts fit. I suggest light sanding with 250-400 grit paper.
3. As much as I love building laser cut kits, I don’t like to see dark laser “burn” marks
showing through my covering. I find it useful to keep some 400 grit paper handy to
remove the oxidation from the laser cutting process by lightly sanding any surfaces that
will be exposed prior to gluing them into position. Keep in mind that you should NOT
sand any interlocking surfaces or this will impact the fit and keying of the kit.
4. Thin CA glue (about ½ oz.) is suggested for the bulk of the assembly. ALWAYS use a
super fine glue applicator tip when working with thin CA to meter the amount of glue
required for each joint. If you have a CA allergy you may substitute wood glue (thinned
with water). Using wood glue will necessitate pinning parts to the building board until the
glue has cured.
5. Use the poly tubing that this kit was packaged in to protect your building surface from
glue spills. Tip: Wrapping your finger tips with masking tape will prevent the unfortunate
situation whereby you glue your fingers to the model.
6. All parts are laser scribed with a part number, take a mental note of where these parts
are located and DO NOT remove parts from the balsa sheet until it is required in your
assembly step.
7. If you purchased the full stik kit you will have received two original GWS Slow Stick
assemblies marked AS1 and AS3. You will not utilize all provided parts from these
assemblies. Retain the parts pictured in the photos below:

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© 2006 Stevens AeroModel all rights reserved.
Empennage Assembly
1. Begin assembly by locating the 3/32” balsa empennage parts. Assembly the horizontal
stabilizer from parts HS1 (main assembly) and HS2 (cross grain end pieces). Vertical
stab “V”, rudder “R”, and elevator “E” require no assembly. A photo of the complete
empennage assemblies is given below for reference.
2. Sand the leading edge of the vertical and horizontal stabilizer round while leaving the
training edge square. The flying surfaces of the stik are simply tape hinged; this requires
that you sand a 45 degree bevel along the leading edge of both the elevator and rudder
while leaving the trailing edge square (see illustration below).
3. Final sand the empennage assembly in preparation for covering with AeroLITE.

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© 2006 Stevens AeroModel all rights reserved.

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© 2006 Stevens AeroModel all rights reserved.
Wing Assembly
Assembly method: Refer to plan sheet for the wing assembly parts location diagram. Full Size
plan sheets are not required and have not been included with this kit. The wing is of “I-Beam”
type construction which consists of a 1/16” balsa web which is slotted to accept the wing ribs.
This web is caped by balsa strips that interlock with the ribs to form the “I-Beam”. The wing is
assembled in one complete panel with center section plywood reinforcement.
When assembling the wing pay careful attention to the orientation of the spar, trailing edge, cap
strips, and turbulator as these parts have a directional component. I have keyed the wood to only
fit in one direction. In addition, many components are marked with arrows “->” which should
always point towards the wing center section (i.e. turbulators, spar web, spar cap strips, and
trailing edge).
The photos illustrate building out the right wing panel half; for each step complete both the right
and left sides of the wing.
As new components are called out we will note them in the instructions by placing “()” around the
part number.
Things to remember: As you assemble the wing panel apply only enough glue to tack the
assembly together. Each part that you add to the assembly will add to the rigidity and square of
the assembly. Once the bulk of the wing panel has been completed you can re-visit each joint
and wick a more liberal amount of glue along the bonding surface.
1. Begin wing assembly by locating the 1/16” spar webs (S1) and (S2), key together as
illustrated in the first photo below, and glue. Next, locate the 1/32” plywood spar doubler
(S5), align to center of spar web matching notches and edges. Glue as illustrated in the
final photo of this step.

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© 2006 Stevens AeroModel all rights reserved.
2. The plywood spar doubler installed in step 1 must face towards the wing trailing edge.
Locate the 3/32” ribs (R2) and key to spar web assembly. Note: be certain to fully seat
R2 within assembly. Locate the 1/32” plywood servo pocket (SR1) and key to the spar
web assembly. Note that SR1 tabs into the notched portion of the S5 plywood doubler
and keys to the hole in rib R2. Once these components have been properly seated and
aligned retain them with a small drop of CA glue.
3. Locate the 3/32” balsa ribs (R1), glue together on top of one another matching slots and
edges perfectly to create one double thickness R1 center rib. Key the double thick R1 to
spar web center notch as illustrated in the second photo below. Do not glue.

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© 2006 Stevens AeroModel all rights reserved.
4. Now locate the remaining ribs (R3), (R4), (R5), and (R6). Refer to the reduced size plan
set for proper location and key to the spar web. Pay attention to carefully and completely
seat each rib within the notches of the spar web. Do not glue.
5. Locate the top spar web cap (S4) and bottom spar web cap (S3) key these in their
respective positions starting with the locating tabs in the spar web between ribs R5 and
R6. Seat the S3 and S4 caps so that they interlock with ribs R1 through R6 and seat
flush against the top and bottom edges of the spar web. While holding the spar flat
against your building board tack glue the spar webbing to retain to assembly (complete ½
of the wing panel at a time).

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© 2006 Stevens AeroModel all rights reserved.
6. Now is a good time to install the servo pocket doublers. Locate the 1/16” balsa parts
(SR2), and glue to the underside of the wing on top of the plywood SR1 servo pockets
bringing thickness of the servo pocket flush with the bottom of the wing.
7. Locate the 1/8” Balsa parts (TE) these make up the trailing edge. Key TE to wing
assembly beginning with the outer most rib R6. Trailing edge parts from right and left
wing halves should meet at the center double thickness rib R1 as illustrated in the final
photo below. Once satisfied that the ribs are completely seated within the pre-cut
notches of the trailing edge retain TE with a small drop of glue at each rib to trailing edge
joint.

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© 2006 Stevens AeroModel all rights reserved.
8. Locate 1/16” balsa trussed sub ribs (W4) and (W5). There are two W4’s one for each
right and left wing halves spanning ribs R1 and R2. There are eight W5’s four for each
right and left wing halve spanning R2 and R3, R3 and R4, R4 and R5, R5 and R6. Key
the trussed sub ribs in their proper positions interlocking with the wing trailing edge TE
and fitting flush against the spar and ribs. Refer to the plan set for proper parts location.
Once all of the trussed sub ribs have been installed and properly seated, lay your wing
assembly on your flat building board (one half of the wing at a time) and tack glue sub
ribs to retain to assembly.
9. Locate the 1/32” plywood part (S6) and glue this within the recess of the trailing edge TE
spanning the wing center section as illustrated below.

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© 2006 Stevens AeroModel all rights reserved.
10. Locate the 3/32” balsa turbulator (W1). W1 is keyed to fit within the FORWARD MOST
notches of the ribs R1 through R6. Also note that W1 has an “->” etched on the part
indicating the proper side to face the R1 root rib. Gently work W1 into position until
completely seated in receiving notches of ribs. Note that W1 will not fit flush with the
tops of the ribs, instead to top surface of W1 sits proud of the ribs by 1/16”. Once
W1 has been properly seated glue it into position at each tab and notch location.
11. Locate the 3/32” balsa turbulators (W2) and (W3). Install W2 spanning the middle set of
notches in ribs R1 through R6, again an “->” marks the proper end to position at center of
rib R1. W3 installs in the same fashion spanning the notches closest to the main spar.
Note that W2 and W3 will not fit flush with the tops of the ribs, instead to top surface of
W2 and W3 sits proud of the ribs by 1/16”. Retain W2 and W3 with a drop of glue at
each rib to turbulator interface.

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© 2006 Stevens AeroModel all rights reserved.
Leading Edge Considerations: The basic stik upgrade wing kit ships with two 1/8” hardwood
dowels which make up the wing leading edge. If you purchased the components to make a
full airframe kit (which includes GWS-SLOW-STICK-AS1) you may choose to use the
stronger, albeit slightly heavier, fiberglass dowels included with this assembly. These
fiberglass dowels afford you the most damage resistant leading edge. (hardwood dowel
featured in successive images). Note: Many builders have substituted 1/8” diameter carbon
fiber tube for the leading edge which is the strongest and lightest of the options this tubing is
available from www.stevensaero.com
12. Installing the wing leading edge dowel (technique for wood, fiberglass, or carbon). Start
each length at the center of rib R1 and key it to the receiving pocket at the tip of each rib
(The 24” wood dowel will overhang the end of each right and left wing half) cut then sand
the overhang flush with the outside edge of rib R6.
13. Locate and Install the leading edge strain relief wedges, 1/8” balsa part (W7a), to either
side of center section rib R1a as illustrated below (W7A is keyed to fit within the notches
in rib R1). Next, glue the 1/8” balsa part (W7b) to the underside of the wing atop the
previously installed W7a. Sand W7b to match curved profile of root rib R1 at leading
edge.

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© 2006 Stevens AeroModel all rights reserved.
14. Locate the 1/8” balsa parts (W6a) and (W6b) key these together as illustrated in the first
photo below and glue to form the W6 wing tip part. The wing tips will be placed and
glued so that the top surface of the wing tip follows the upper profile of rib R6. Note that
the wing tip is being secured to the outside edge of the right and left wing panel at
rib R6 and is NOT actually glued on top of R6. Begin by gluing the wing tip starting at
the trailing edge following the upper profile of rib R6 for about 1” along it’s length, allow
glue to cure, now gently bend the wing tip to continue following the R6 rib profile glue
every ¼ to ½ inch pausing to allow the glue to cure before increasing the bend radius.
Repeat this method all the way to the leading edge. The photo series below should give
you the basic idea. If you find the wood to be particularly difficult to bend it is advised
that you moisten the top side of the wing tip with rubbing alcohol or glass cleaner to
soften the wing tip allowing it be more easily shaped.
15. Ailerons. Locate the 1/8” balsa parts marked (A). Lightly sand to remove retention tab
bumps and oxidation from laser cutting process. The flying surfaces of the stik are simply
tape hinged and this requires that you sand a 45 degree bevel along the leading edge of
the ailerons while leaving the trailing edge square (we handle the aileron leading edge
exactly as the rudder and elevator detailed and illustrated in step 2 of these instruction).
16. DO NOT OVERLOOK THIS STEP. Complete your wing assembly by re-visiting all of
your glue joints and wicking liberal amounts of thin CA glue along each joint, allowing
sufficient time for the glue to cure before moving on.
17. Using 250-400 grit sand paper, lightly sand the wing assembly in preparation for
covering.

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© 2006 Stevens AeroModel all rights reserved.
Steps to Final Assembly
Covering the model
A resource guide to covering using Stevens AeroModel AeroFILM and AeroLITE is available for
download from www.stevensaero.com. Download this document and use it as a guide for
covering the stik. No surprises here just follow the directions and work slowly remember any
imperfections will need to be sanded smooth as the covering will expose every bump or drip of
CA glue.
Apply Tape Hinges
Tape hinge the control surfaces:
1. My favorite method for this is to tape the covered components to my building board
allowing for a 1/32” spacing between the wing/stabilizer and control surface. This
spacing is necessary to allow for sufficient control surface travel without binding. Taping
the parts to the table allows you to lock in your control surface spacing prior to laying
down your tape hinge.
2. With the parts taped to the work table, cut a piece of ¾” wide clear tape that is 2-3 inches
longer than your part to be hinged. Lay this tape hinge centered between the parts and
smooth out any wrinkles or bubbles. Remove the overage with a sharp hobby knife as
illustrated below:

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© 2006 Stevens AeroModel all rights reserved.
3. Now invert your piece, and proceed to hinge the opposite side. This time have a helper
flex your control surface back against the opposite surface and lay a tape hinge directly
down the centerline of your work. You now have a solid hinge that will not fail in flight
and does not have exposed adhesive that will trap debris between the control surfaces.
4. Repeat this process for the Vertical Stab. / Rudder and Wing / Aileron hinges.
Prepare the Fuselage
Note: These instructions pertain to setting up your stik with the original Aluminum Fuselage.
GWS has since replaced the slow stick aluminum fuselage with either a one or two part fiberglass
fuselage (some of these fuselages are pre-drilled, some not, some are drilled in the wrong
location this is GWS production issue that we have NO CONTROL over). If you are using the
fiberglass fuselage DO NOT USE the #2 sheet metal screws provided in your hardware kit for
securing the horizontal and vertical stabilizers. Instead, please nut and bolt your tail feathers onto
the fuselage assembly. Refer to plan sheet for the fuselage initial parts location diagram. Your
battery, servo, and wing mount placement may change depending upon your equipment weight.
Horizontal Stabilizer Location:
•From Aft end of fuselage measure and mark 20mm
•From Aft end of fuselage measure and mark 70mm
Verify that the marked positions will allow your stabilizer assembly to mount without interference
between the boom and the elevator, then use a 1/32” drill bit to drill a pilot hole in the fuselage
boom at each marked location.

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© 2006 Stevens AeroModel all rights reserved.
Vertical Stabilizer Location
•Rotate the fuselage 90 degrees
•From Aft end of fuselage measure and mark 90mm
•From Aft end of fuselage measure and mark 140mm
Verify that the marked positions will allow your vertical stabilizer assembly to mount without
interference between the elevator and the rudder, then use a 1/32” drill bit to drill a pilot hole in
the fuselage boom at each marked location.
1. Complete this assembly by using the supplied #2x3/16” self tapping screws, double sided
tape (from GWS-SLOW-STICK-AS1 or use thick CA glue), and plastic stabilizer mounting
doublers (also from GWS-SLOW-STICK-AS1) to secure your empennage assembly as
illustrated below. Note: The double sided tape / glue should sandwich between the
wooden tail feathers and the fuselage boom – it is not required to remove covering from
the stabilizer. Note: we now include a 1/32” plywood stabilizer mounting doubler in
your parts kit these are etched (HS0) and (VS0) and are pre-drilled for both
aluminum and fiberglass fuselage variations.
2. With the empennage installed, mount the control horns to the elevator and rudder
assembly. These control horns will press fit through the small laser cut holes in the
elevator and rudder surface. Once pressed into position, secure with thin CA glue on
both the top and bottom side of the surface. After the glue has cured, use a pair of flush
cut side cutters to remove the excess “stud” from the control horn. Note: We now
include a sturdier twin barbed micro2 control horn designed for heavier 0.045” wire
(also included with our stik kit). Installation is identical to the original control
horns.

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© 2006 Stevens AeroModel all rights reserved.
3. Install the remainder of the plastic parts from the GWS Slow Stick part tree AS3. Refer to
plan sheet for the wing assembly parts location diagram.
4. The main landing gear installs to the leading wing saddle, install the provided 3” wheels
and retain with the rubber wheel retainers.
5. The tail wheel installs to the push rod support just forward of the vertical fin. Install the
provided 1” wheel and retain with the hard plastic wheel retainer and a drop of thin CA
glue.
6. IMPORTANT! Measure 5.75” from the front of the fuselage boom and position the
leading edge of the forward wing saddle at this point. Test fit the wing to the saddle and
adjust the trailing edge wing saddle to fit making adjustments to your servo rail location
and battery / radio tray locations as required.
7. Mount your rudder and elevator servos to the servo trays using the hardware that came
with the servos. Prior to installing the servo push-rod, center your servos using your
transmitter.

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© 2006 Stevens AeroModel all rights reserved.
8. Trim away extra control horn “ears” from the servo control horn as indicated below.
Select the inner most hole on the servo control horn and drill to fit the control horn wire
(0.045”).
9. Please do not use the push rods included in part kit GW/SLOW-STICK-AS1 as these are
much too heavy and far to short making it difficult to balance the model without pushing
the wing mounts aft. Our stik wing kit contains lighter wire material for creating two 24”
length push rods for this application. Use the photo as a guide and make a “V” shaped
bend about 1.25” from the end of the rod followed by an “Z” bend.
10. Install the Z-Bend end of the push rod to the servo control horn, route the push rod
through the guides in the aft wing saddle and pushrod guide (just forward of the vertical
stab) then re-install control horn to servo.