Stryker T-Tops SG600 User manual

SG600 INSTALLATION GUIDE
& OWNER’S MANUAL
KIT INCLUDES:
SG600 T-TOP FRAME
SUNBRELLA®CANOPY
MOUNTING HARDWARE
IMAGE SHOWN WITHOUT CANOPY FOR CLARITY

SG600
You have selected a quality aftermarket t-top to upgrade your center console boat. Properly installed
and maintained, it will provide many years of valuable protection from the sun and elements. Fully
customizable with many Stryker accessories, you will greatly increase the functionality and resale
value of your boat. We thank you for your purchase and promise to provide the very best in customer
service for the lifetime of ownership. After you complete your installation, remember to send us
photos for our customer gallery and leave your product reviews at www.strykerttops.com.
BEFORE YOU GET STARTED
Read the entire manual before beginning the installation. Do an inventory check. Lay all the parts out
on a soft cloth to avoid scratching the finish. Compare what you received with the parts list on the
following page. If you are missing any parts, contact us before starting the installation. Make all
measurements before you begin to ensure the t-top is installed square and in the correct position. Be
sure to have all the items in our required tools section ready before you begin. To avoid scratching
your deck, use blue painter’s masking tape to cover the area where the feet will be mounted. Mark
drilling spots on the tape with a marker- if you mess up a measurement, you can replace the tape and
start over. When drilling through fiberglass, always run your drill in reverse to lessen the chance of
spider cracking. To avoid drilling through tanks or cables under the deck, refer to your boat’s owner
manual or contact the manufacturer. When drilling, limit downward pressure- don’t let the drill bit
punch through more than one inch. This is not a one person job so make sure you have someone to
help or check our site for installers in your area.
We proudly offer support for the lifetime of original ownership. If you ever need help or have
installation questions, call our support team at [phone] or email [email protected]
Monday through Friday 9am to 5pm Pacific Standard Time.
LIST OF RECOMMENDED TOOLS & SUPPLIES
Power Drill
Drill Bits
Phillips Head Driver Bit
45°Chamfer Bit
Wrenches (socket or adjustable)
Allen Wrench Set
Measuring Tape
Marker Pen
Painter’s Masking Tape
Thread Lock Glue
Anti-Seize Lubricant
3M 5200 Marine Adhesive
Hack Saw
Miter Box
A Buddy to Help Out
Congratulations!
ON YOUR STRYKER T-TOP PURCHASE
ON YOUR STRYKER T-TOP PURCHASE
1

SG600
2
7’ 2 ½”
2194.80 mm
6’ 10”
2082.80 mm
3' 6 ”
1068.57 mm
5’ 1”
1549.40 mm
DIMENSIONS
The SG600 comes with 7 accessory
mounting plates perfect for outriggers,
flood lights, antennas, radar, etc. Four
are welded on the frame and three are
mounted with the included hardware.
The leg sections can be moved in or out to fit most center consoles.
MOUNTING PLATES
FEET
ADJUSTABLE WIDTH
MIN.
MAX.
Minumum width: 18” (45.70 mm)
Maximum width: 50” (1270 mm)
6’ 10”
2082.80 mm
6’ 10”
2082.80 mm
2’ 7 ½”
800 mm
/
116
3”
76.20 mm
5 ¼”
133.35 mm

SG600
PARTS LIST
3
Front Starboard Top Section Rear Starboard Top Section Front Port Top Section Rear Port Top Section
Starboard Upper Leg Section Port Upper Leg Section Starboard Lower Leg Section Port Lower Leg Section
Deck Screws Leg & Top Section Bolts Clamp Bolts Mounting Plate Hardware SetX16 X24 X8 X12
X1 X1 X1 X1
X1 X1 X1 X1
Large Mounting Plate
Standoff Hardware Set
Small Mounting Plate Nylon Washer Canvas CordX1 X2 X2 X1
X2 X1Sunbrella®Canvas Canopy X1

SG600
STEP 1
Check for wires, water/fuel tanks & lines before you drill into your deck.
If unsure, contact your boat’s manufacturer.
Lay overlapping strips of blue painter’s tape on both sides of the
deck next to the center console unit. This will protect your deck
from scratches and provide a surface for marking drill holes.
CAUTION!
4

SG600
5
STEP 2 POSITIONING OF SIDE SECTIONS
At this stage, it is very important to know where you will be installing the stand-offs that
connect both the t-top’s leg sections to the center console unit. Position the leg section
next to your center console unit. Make sure they are oriented on the correct port and
starboard side respectively. Refer to the recommended mounting area highlighted below.
What is a Stand-Off?
Stand-offs provide additional support needed for your t-top.
They connect the legs of the t-top with your boat’s center console
unit on each side. You MUST use them!
For maximum support, it is recommended
that stand-offs be mounted in this area.
It is important to select an area of the
console that is flat and perpendicular to
the standoffs.
The distance between a leg section and the
console should be about 1 and 7 inches.
The SG600 kit includes 2 stand-offs - one
for each side.
RECOMMENDED STAND-OFF MOUNTING AREA
Position the lower halves of each side section on the deck. Make sure you take the same measurements
from the sides and aft of the boat for each side. Legs must be parallel to each other and square.

SG600
6
STEP 3 MARKING MOUNTING FEET LOCATIONS
STEP 4 ASSEMBLE THE LEG SECTIONS
FRONT (BOW)
Once you have determined the best location of the leg
sections and double checked all measurements, use a marker
to outline each foot. Be sure you only mark on the tape placed
on the deck in step 1. If using a permanent marker, be careful
not to get ink on the metal feet.
Keep the line as close to the outer perimeter of the foot as
possible. Later, you will need to re-align the feet with their
outline to begin drilling into the deck.
Repeat the outline process for each foot.
Note: The tape will be removed just before fastening
the t-top to the deck.
Insert the nylon washer for the center hole.
Use three leg section bolts to attach the
front portion. Apply anti-seize lube to the
threads of each bolt. Tighten each bolt by
hand to start and avoid cross-threading.
Using an allen wrench, tighten each bolt the
rest of the way.
REAR (AFT)
Two leg section bolts attach the
rear portion. Apply anti-seize lube to the
threads of each bolt. Hand-tighten bolts
then tighten down with an allen wrench.
Note: Anti-seize lubricants slow the galvanic
reaction between the aluminum joint and the
stainless steel bolt. Don’t skip this important
step- when it’s time to fold the t-top, it will
make the bolts much easier to remove.
NYLON
WASHER
ANTI-SEIZE
LUBRICANT

SG600
7
QUICK-RELEASE KNOBS
Optional Upgrade
Instead of using an allen wrench to remove and
replace the bolts required to fold the t-top,
Stryker sells sets of quick-release knobs.
For the SG600, you can use up to eight knobs to
replace the bolts that connect the upper and
lower leg sections. Note: of the three bolts on the
front (bow) of each leg section, the middle one
can’t be replaced with a quick-release knob because
it is the pivot point when folding the t-top down.
Follow the diagram below and bolt on one small and one large plate using the included
hardware. Hold the bolt in place with an allen wrench and tighten the bolt down.
Lay the front starboard and port top sections on a soft
cloth and line up the bolt holes. Apply thread locker
to the threads of three top section bolts and hand-
tighten to avoid cross-threading. Using an allen
wrench, tighten each bolt the rest of the way.
THREAD
LOCKER
STEP 5 ASSEMBLE FORWARD TOP SECTION
STEP 6 FORWARD TOP SECTION MOUNTING PLATES
SMALL PLATE
LARGE PLATE

SG600
8
Measure and record the distance between each leg section.
We recommend measuring from the inside of the left and
right leg section. Since you have outlined each foot on the
tape, you can use those lines for your measurement.
You will be assembling the t-top OFF the boat. You need to
know how far apart to mount the leg sections to the canopy
frame top section. After that, you will move the completed
frame on the boat and line it up on the tape.
Mount the assembled top front section to the leg sections. Use two clamp bolts per clamp. Make
sure the distance between the feet matches step 7. Also, compare the distance between each
clamp and the outside tubing to make sure everything is centered. Each bolt needs thread locker
but don’t apply it until you are sure everything is positioned correctly first.
STEP 7 MEASURE WIDTH BETWEEN LEGS
STEP 8 ASSEMBLE LEGS TO THE TOPS SECTION
STEP 9 SET T-TOP FRAME ON THE DECK
THREAD
LOCKER
ONLY APPLY THREADLOCKER AFTER
DOUBLE CHECKING MEASUREMENTS!
Carefully move the frame to your
boat and gently set it down on
the taped area on the deck.
Line up each of the feet
so they are all resting inside
the four outlines you made earlier.

SG600
9
FINAL DRILL SIZE:
3/16” (0.188”)
3.8
MM
PILOT DRILL SIZE:
1/8” (0.125” )
3.175
MM
Before drilling, consult your owner’s manual or boat manufacturer
to make sure no wires, cables or tanks are directly below deck.
Do not remove the painter’s tape yet.
To avoid cracking or splintering, always run the drill in REVERSE.
Using the holes on each t-top foot as a guide, drill a pilot hole
with a 1/8” (0.125mm) bit.
Set the drill speed to medium and apply medium downward
pressure on the drill to avoid punching through the deck.
After drilling 16 pilot holes (4 per foot), move the t-top so the feet
are no longer resting on the mounting location.
Bore out the pilot hole with a 3/16” (3.8mm) bit.
Do not remove the painter’s tape.
Again, run the drill in REVERSE at medium speed and pressure.
Blow any dust and loose material away from the area.
Using a 45 degree chamfer bit, countersink the gel coat on all 16
mounting holes.
Do not remove the painter’s tape.
Note: Chamfering creates a pocket for the screw heads to sit in.
This will greatly reduce any outward pressure from the angled
screw head that could cause spider cracking of the gel coat.
Blow any dust and loose material away from the area.
PILOT HOLE
BORE OUT TO FINAL DIAMETER
CHAMFER HOLES
T-TOP
GEL COAT
FIBERGLASS
A
B
C
45°
STEP 10 DRILL MOUNTING HOLES IN THE DECK

SG600
10
It’s time to mount the t-top frame to your boat’s deck.
Prepare the deck so it’s cleared out and ready.
Remove the painter’s tape from both sides.
Clear the deck of any debris and dust.
Apply a generous amount of marine grade sealant on the
deck matching the contact patch of the mounting feet.
We recommend 3M 5200 Marine Adhesive or equivalent.
Reposition the t-top over the sealant and gently lower it into
place while avoiding side-to-side movement.
Using a phillips head bit, screw down and tightly fasten the
mounting feet to the deck of the boat.
Circle back to each screw to make sure they are each
torqued down all the way but avoid stripping out the deck.
Using a wet cloth, remove excess sealant around each foot.
Remember to check the 5200 adhesive label for recommended
cure times specific to your local temperature and humidity.
A
B
C
5200 MARINE ADHESIVE
STEP 11 MOUNT T-TOP TO THE DECK
5200
MARINE ADHESIVE

SG600
11
From step two of this installation guide, you should have already determined where to mount your standoffs.
STEP 12 MOUNT STANDOFFS
EXPLODED VIEW OF A STANDOFF
Check the thickness of your console’s side walls. If they are thin or bend easily with a little pressure, we advise
adding a backing material like marine-grade plywood on the inside. Cut it to fit the largest area you can.
By minimizing any side wall flex, you will decrease the side-to-side movement of the stand-offs and the t-top.
Also, be sure you have access to the inside of the console unit so that you are able to tighten the bolts.
FRONT VIEW
The stand-offs will need to be cut
to length. These steps will help you
know exactly how long to cut them.
From the mounting locations you
have chosen, measure the width
of the space between the outer
surfaces on the console unit to the
closest point of the t-top.
(See figure A)
You will want to repeat the process
on both sides just in case there is
a slight difference in distance.
On the tubing of the t-top and on
the console, mark the mounting
locations and drilling spots.
(See figure B)
A
B
MEASURE LENGTH NEEDED FOR STAND-OFFS
PRO TIP

SG600
12
STEP 12 MOUNT STAND-OFFS (CONT.)
MARK CUT LINE ON STAND-OFFS
CUT STAND-OFFS TO LENGTH
MEASURE
NEVER TRIM THIS END TO LENGTH!
THIS CURVED SURFACE IS USED TO
MOUNT TO THE T-TOP TUBE.
MARK THE
CUT LENGTH
CUT LENGTH = THE MEASUREMENT
FROM THE INSIDE OF THE T-TOP
TUBE TO THE MOUNTING SURFACE
OF THE CONSOLE.
Transfer the measurements from
the previous step by marking
each standoff with a cut line.
If your left and right side have
different lengths, we recommend
sticking a little painter’s tape on
each and noting which is which.
Notice how one end of the stand-off
is concaved. That curve mates with
the outer curve of the tubing. Be
sure to not cut it off!
Also, when measuring to draw the cut
line, make sure you measure from the
lowest part of the concave- it matches
the outermost point on the tubing you
are mounting it to.
Using a hacksaw, cut along the marked line. For the straightest line, a simple miter box works great.
We recommend using new blades that are designed specifically for cutting through solid aluminum.
We recommend starting with a higher TPI blade to start the
initial cut. Then, switch to a lower TPI blade for the
remainder of the cut. A lower TPI blade has
more resistance and will “hook on”
or get stuck frequently until
a groove has been
established.
!
PRO TIP

SG600
13
STEP 12 MOUNT STAND-OFFS (CONT.)
DRILL THROUGH T-TOP & CONSOLE
Drill through the marked locations on the t-top and on the console. Make sure all holes are straight and aligned
with each other so that the threaded rod can pass easily through.
MOUNT STAND-OFF HARDWARE
Assemble all the stand-off parts and hardware as shown below.
You will need two wrenches or sockets to hold and tighten
the outer and inner nuts at the same time. Repeat the
steps for both sides.
CONSOLECONSOLE
T-TOP
CONSOLECONSOLE
T-TOP GAP
EXAMPLE OF DRILL
HOLE LOCATIONS
Use a center punch to create a
dimple on the tubing. This will
help keep the drill bit in place.
Use a standard drill bit to bore
through the tubing then run an
extra-long drill bit all the way
through the center console to
get perfectly aligned holes.
T-TOP TUBE
GAP
INSIDE
CONSOLE
2 WRENCHES OR
SOCKETS NEEDED
TO TIGHTEN NUTS
GAP
PRO TIP

SG600
14
Lay the rear starboard and port top sections on a soft
cloth and line up the bolt holes. Apply thread locker
to the threads of two top section bolts and hand-
tighten to avoid cross-threading. Using an allen
wrench, tighten each bolt the rest of the way.
THREAD
LOCKER
STEP 13 ASSEMBLE REAR TOP SECTION
STEP 14 REAR TOP SECTION MOUNTING PLATE
SMALL PLATE
T - TOPV-BRA C E K I T
Optional Upgrade
For those who have choppy local watersor would like to reinforcetheir
t-top,Stryker has designed the V-Brace kit as an optional add-on. It
diagonally connects theforward facing legs withthe front side of the
center console with solid clamps and thick aluminum bars.

SG600
15
Lay the canopy out flat on the top frame. To help keep it in place, zip tie the canopy down at least every third
grommet hole. The edge of the canvas will sit inside the top frame with a slight gap in between.
LAY CANOPY IN PLACE
ZIP TIE THE CANOPY IN
PLACE AT LEAST EVERY
SECOND OR THIRD
HOLE TO MAKE
ROPING EASIER.
REMOVE ZIP TIES
AFTER THE CANOPY
IS COMPLETELY ROPED
ON AND DRUM TIGHT.
STEP 15
STEP 16
MOUNT REAR TOP SECTION TO T-TOP
THREAD
LOCKER

SG600
16
STRYKER T-TOPS ALWAYS USES PREMIUM
MARINE CANVAS MATERIAL BY SUNBRELLA
Start with a knot at the rear of the top to keep the cord in place. Follow the diagram below tosecure the
canopy through each successive hole. After the final hole, go back through each loop to remove any excess
slack to tighten it down as much as possible. Complete the process by tying a final knot. The canopy should be
drum-tight with just a littlegap between the outer edge of thecanvasand the inside of the top’s tubing.
After you have installed your Stryker T-Top, take some photos and send them to us. We’ll add your boat to
our customer photo gallery, send you a free tee shirt and enter you into our regular drawings for big prizes!
We love seeing scenic photos out on the water and active fishing shots. Simply complete the gallery form on
our website at https://strykerttops.com/submit-customer-gallery
You can also post photos of your boat with a Stryker T-Top installed using the hashtag #mystrykerttop
STEP 17
Add Your Boat to Our Customer Gallery!
ROPE THE CANOPY
A drum-tight canopy will extend the fabric’s
life by avoiding damage from excessive wind
movement and by allowing water to roll off
instead of pooling up which can stretch, sag
and weaken the material.
1
2
3
4
TIE A KNOT AT EACH END TO
START AND STOP THE CORD
Instaation Complete!
CONGRATULATIONS ON FINISHING YOUR STRYKER T-TOP INSTALLATION
PRO TIP

SG600
17
Proper Usage & Safety
For your safety and everyone else, plus, to avoid damage to your Stryker T-Top and boat, please read and
observe the following. Make sure all bolts and screws are properly torqued down. Over time, vibrations can
loosen them up so it is important to retighten everything periodically. Do not use the t-top to tow
wakeboarders, skiers, knee boarders, inflatables or tubes. Do not trailer your boat with the t-top folded down.
When trailering your boat, make sure it is in the upright position and pay close attention to clearance
limitations like low bridges, car port covers, tree branches, etc. Be sure to measure the highest point of your
t-top or mounted accessories before hitting the road.
Do not attempt troll fishing with lines or rods cast from the t-top. When the boat is in motion either in the
water or on a trailer, be sure to take down any rods, outriggers or other items that might conflict with
clearance heights on your route. Stryker T-Tops is not responsible or liable for damage due to a customer’s
misuse of our products or negligence.
Wiring Instructions
You can easily wire your Stryker T-Top to connect lights, antennas, speakers or other electronics. The frames
are hollow and are a perfect place to keep wires tucked out of sight and away from the elements. Careful
planning will help you avoid the cleanest installation without unnecessary drilling or miscalculations.
Start by drilling a hole where you want the accessory mounted to the tubing. If mounting to the top “hoop”
section that the canvas ties to, start by feeding the wire into the tubing at that location. Work the wire
through towards the middle of the top sections where the leg sections clamp. The clamps are solid billet
aluminum but have a predrilled hole for wires. This is how you will get the wires down towards the deck. Drill
an exit hole in the top section that is in line with where your clamps are located.
Note: you will have to have your t-top completely installed to know exactly where your leg section clamps will
be located relative to the top section.
Once aligned, you can feed the wire exiting the top section down through the middle of the leg section
clamps. Continue working the wires down the leg section closest to the bow. Be sure to plan ahead, know
where the terminals on the boat are located and know if it’s better for you to run wires down the port or
starboard leg.
The most important thing to know is that the joints that connect the top and bottom leg sections are solid
billet aluminum and must be bypassed. They are not pre-drilled like the top clamps. Do not attempt to drill
through these sections as it could compromise the strength of the joints.
To bypass them, you will need to drill an exit hole and re-entry hole around the joint. Make a 1” hole about
1.5” away from the weld line. To keep water out, we recommend picking up some rubber grommets that fit
the holes you are drilling. Also, give yourself a little extra slack in the bypassing wire especially if you have a
t-top model that folds. This is another good reason to run the wires down the leg section tubing closest to the
bow since that is the folding joint on certain models.
Lastly, most of our customers exit the wire out of the bottom of the leg section with one more drilled hole
and another rubber grommet. From there, you can run the wire to where you need to connect it. Once
everything is complete, we recommend putting a little silicon caulking on the rubber grommets around the
wire to prevent water from getting inside the tubing.

SG600
18
Folding Your T-Top Down
For t-top models that feature a folding capability, please make sure you are following the correct steps. First,
only collapse the t-top when you need to minimize vertical clearance to either safely navigate under a low
bridge on the water or to fit your boat in a garage or other storage location. Do not trailer your boat with the
t-top folded down. Driving on roads this way could allow the unsecured folded top section to sway and bend
parts of the lower leg sections and possibly crack the welds of the frame.
Remove the two rear leg bolts on each side. On the front of each leg section, there are three bolts per side.
Only remove the top and bottom bolts. When the top folds forward, it uses the remaining single center bolt
on each side as a hinge. With another person, gently tilt the top section forward towards the bow until it is
gently rested on the deck. We highly recommend purchasing some of our Quick Release Knobs to make the
process easier. They replace the standard allen head bolts with large gripped bolts you can loosen or tighten
by hand. Repeat the process in reverse to bring the t-top back up and make sure to properly tighten all bolts.
Center Console Units with a Hinged Door
If your boat’s center console unit has a hinged door, you should carefully measure the size and clearance
required to fully open it. Depending on the Stryker T-Top model, the lower leg sections might have a
horizontal brace that could prevent the door from opening. On the SG300, this brace is welded on; the SG600
has a brace that is mounted with allen head bolts and can be temporarily removed; the SG900 has been
designed with a much higher horizontal brace to avoid this situation.
Probably the simplest solution, some of our customers have replaced their door hinges with pins. This allows
the door to be pulled out without swinging it open. However, you will still need to consider how the
horizontal brace with affect your access to the inside of the console unit. Please contact us with your door’s
measurements so we can help figure out the best solution based on your needs.
Care & Maintenance
Properly cleaning your Stryker T-Top products with greatly extend the life and maintain their value! We
recommend more frequent light cleaning. This will avoid a build-up of grime and deposits that will require
stronger cleaning and harsher cleansers.
GENERAL CLEANING TIPS
• Over-cleaning or excessive rubbing can do more harm than good.
• To prevent marring, make sure your sponges, microfiber cloths, pads, etc, are clean and grit-free.
• Only use clean water. Dump and refill bucket regularly to remove abrasive dirt and contamination.
• Avoid abrasive or household cleaners that can cause permanent damage to painted surfaces.
• Avoid abrasive materials such as steel wool, scouring pads, hard bristle brushes, etc.
• When using recommended solutions avoid drips and splashes. Remove run downs as quickly as possible.
• Avoid temperature extremes. Heat accelerates chemical reactions and may evaporate water from solution.
Extremely low temperature may give poor cleaning effects. Cleaning under adverse conditions may result in
streaking or staining. Ideally, cleaning should be done in the shade at a moderate temperature.
• Do not substitute a heavy duty cleaner for a frequently used mild cleaner.
• Do not scour painted surfaces.
• Never use paint removers, aggressive alkaline, acid or abrasive cleaners.
• Always do a test on a small hidden area before treating the entire surface.
• Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for applying, mixing, diluting, etc.
• Never mix cleaners.

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19
Care & Maintenance (continued)
ANODIZED ALUMINUM CARE
You can save yourself a lot of time and unnecessary extra effort by simply committing to a regular, stress-free
cleaning regimen. Frequent light cleaning goes a long way to avoiding deposit build-up, etching or other ugly
conditions that require lots of elbow grease and harsher cleaning methods.
Start by determining the condition of the surface and how long it has been since the last cleaning.
If it’s just dirty, you can wash down anodized aluminum with a mild soapy solution or with warm water
containing a suitable wetting agent. Rinse with clean water and dry everything with a clean micro fiber cloth.
Because anodizing creates a hard finish, mild abrasives or an abrasive cleaning sponge is sometimes
recommended. More difficult grime deposits may also require the use of a mild abrasive.
BE VERY CAREFUL with whatever you use for medium to heavy cleaning! Start with a small hidden spot. Make
sure the surface is cool, out of direct sunlight and always follow the instructions on the bottle. Some of our
customers have had success using either Woody Wax Kit http://www.woody-wax.com/woody-wax-kit.php or
Flitz Liquid Polish: https://www.flitz.com/flitz-polish-liquid/
DO NOT use harsh acidic or alkaline cleaners because they may destroy the finish permanently. Use solvents
with care as they may stain, discolor or erode the finish. Remember to be thorough and clean all surfaces, all
sides, all corners and every nook. Also, thoroughly rinse with clean water especially where crevices are
present to ensure removal of all residues. If improperly rinsed, residual cleaning agents can lead to etching or
discoloration. Dry everything with a clean micro fiber cloth.
For more difficult condition issues, please either contact us or your local professional.
POWDER COATING CARE
You can save yourself a lot of time and unnecessary extra effort by simply committing to a regular, stress-free
cleaning regimen. Frequent light cleaning goes a long way to avoiding deposit build-up, etching or other ugly
conditions that require lots of elbow grease and harsher cleaning methods.
The best method of cleaning any powder coated finish is by regularly washing it using a solution of clean
water and a mild detergent. The entire surface- including all the nooks and corners- should be cleaned using a
soft cloth or sponge, using nothing harsher than a natural bristle brush. This will remove any dirt, minerals and
residue that could scratch or etch the finish. Rinse with clean water and dry with a micro fiber cloth.
If the atmospheric pollution has resulted in heavy soiling of the coating that is difficult to remove, then
nothing harsher than white spirit should be used for cleaning. Make sure the surface is cool and out of direct
sunlight. Always test in a less visible spot before treating the entire surface.
DO NOT use abrasive pads, steel wool or other hard textured mediums because they could permanently
destroy the finish. There are a variety of “powder coating polish” products on the market that are specifically
designed to polish and protect. Carefully follow the manufacturer’s instructions.
For more difficult condition issues, please either contact us or your local professional.