Suffolk C-type User manual

Build Manual
Suffolk C-type
Suffolk Sportscars Ltd
P.O Box 100, Woodbridge, IP12 9BA
www.suffolksportscars.com
Admin & Sales tel: [phone] - email: [email protected]
Workshops tel/fax: [phone] - email: [email protected]
Issue No: 011014

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Dear Customer,
Suffolk C-type Owners Build Manual
We hope that your chosen project of self building a Suffolk C-type will be as enjoyable as driving your car
following it’s completion.
Our emphasis is very much directed towards supplying the parts and assisting self build owners in the
satisfactory completion of their C-type. This manual is written logically and without jargon to take you
through the build process from start to completion. With this manual, to make the build even more straight
forward, is a picture CD ROM with index numbers corresponding to the manual.
You are most welcome to visit and revisit us to learn more, take photographs and talk to Philip, Mike, Fraser
or myself about building a car. You may not wish to, or be able to undertake some sections of the build
process yourself and we can carry out these on your behalf. We are here to help and ensure that your build
goes smoothly and according to your original plan.
Yours sincerely,

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Contents
Page
Foreword................................................................................................................................. 2
Contents ...............................................................................................................................3-4
Picture CD............................................................................................................................... 5
Origins and Spec..................................................................................................................... 6
1. Introduction......................................................................................................................... 7
2. Garage and Tools ................................................................................................................ 7
2.1 Principal Tools Required ............................................................................................ 7
3. Fasteners ............................................................................................................................. 7
4. Building up the Chassis plus Suspension and Final Drive ................................................. 8
4.1 Chassis Kit .................................................................................................................. 8
4.2 Fitting Belly Pans........................................................................................................ 8
4.3 Front Suspension......................................................................................................... 9
4.4 Rear Suspension and Final Drive.............................................................................. 10
5. Brakes, Clutch and Pedal Box .......................................................................................... 11
5.1 Clutch ........................................................................................................................ 11
5.2 Brakes........................................................................................................................ 12
Front Brake Lines................................................................................................ 12
Rear Brake Lines................................................................................................. 12
5.3 Handbrake ................................................................................................................. 13
5.4 Pedal Box .................................................................................................................. 13
RDH Brake Pipe Locations & Sizes ..................................................................................... 14
6. Engine and Gearbox.......................................................................................................... 15
6.1 Matting Engine to Gearbox....................................................................................... 15
6.2 Preparing for Installation of Engine & Gearbox Assembly...................................... 15
6.3 Installing Engine & Gearbox .................................................................................... 15
7. Steering ............................................................................................................................. 16
8. Fuel System....................................................................................................................... 16
9. Ancillaries (pre-body fitting) ............................................................................................ 17
9.1 SU Carburettors......................................................................................................... 17
9.2 Weber Carburettors ................................................................................................... 17
9.3 Alternator/Dynamo ................................................................................................... 18
9.4 Radiator..................................................................................................................... 19
10. Body Build Guide ........................................................................................................... 19
11. Fitting Body Centre Section............................................................................................ 22
12. Ancillaries (post-body centre fitting).............................................................................. 22
12.1 Rear brake pipe and bleeding brakes ...................................................................... 22
12.2 Fuel pipe, fuel filter and regulator .......................................................................... 22
12.3 Ignition coil ............................................................................................................. 23
12.4 Exhaust.................................................................................................................... 23
12.5 Dashboard ............................................................................................................... 23
13. Electrical and wiring................................................................................................24 - 31
14. Battery tray, battery and cut off switch........................................................................... 32
15. Rear body and doors ....................................................................................................... 32
16. Rear valance and spare wheel cover ............................................................................... 33
17. Rear lamps ...................................................................................................................... 33
18. Bonnet............................................................................................................................. 34
19. Front lamps ..................................................................................................................... 34
20. Interior fittings ................................................................................................................ 35
20.1 Interior floor and side panels .................................................................................. 35
20.2 Gearbox and prop shaft covers................................................................................ 35
20.3 Seat belts ................................................................................................................. 35
20.4 Seats ........................................................................................................................ 36

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21. Exterior fittings ............................................................................................................... 36
21.1 Bonnet straps........................................................................................................... 36
21.2 Headlamp covers..................................................................................................... 36
21.3 Front grille............................................................................................................... 37
21.4 Front screen............................................................................................................. 37
21.5 Brooklands screens and rear view mirror ............................................................... 37
Transmission Cover Preparation Guide................................................................................ 38
22. Finishing items and extras .............................................................................................. 39
22.1 Wheels and tyres ..................................................................................................... 39
22.2 Tonneau cover......................................................................................................... 39
Parts List ....................................................................................................................... 40 – 43
C-type Hardware List.....................................................................................................44 - 51
Rubber & Polybush Types and Positions ............................................................................. 52
Photo Index ........................................................................................................................... 53
Photos.......................................................................................................................54 - 63

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Mount picture cd here

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Suffolk C-type
Origins
In 1951,Jaguar Cars Limited entered three cars for the Le Mans 24 Hour Race. This was their first attempt at the greatest endurance event in motorsport.
Aerodynamic expert Malcolm Sayer and chassis expert Bob Knight had designed the XK C-type in secret, powered by the all-new Jaguar 3.4 litre XK 120 engine
designed by Walter Hassan and Claude Bailey, the unit produced 200bhp.
In night practice for the historic race, driver Peter Walker shattered the existing lap record with an average speed of 104mph. In the race he and Peter Whitehead
triumphed with first place for Jaguar in a race that became the forerunner for two more Le Mans victories in 1953 and 1954.
In 1960, Roger Williams commenced a management-training course in Ipswich with Jaguar distributer Botwoods Limited. Days at the Jaguar factory in Browns
lane and collecting Jaguar E-types from the works were all parts of life and memorable highlights of five years with the Jaguar dealership.
In 1995, Roger Williams created Suffolk Sportscars Engineering to manufacture modern reproductions of the 1936 Jaguar SS100. To date over 180 cars have
been built for discerning Jaguar enthusiasts all over the world. The idea of recreating the C-type has been a dream ever since Peter Walker crossed the line in “774
RW”. Suffolk Sportscars has built several C-types already including a car for demonstrations and test drives and will be building a limited number of cars each
year.
On The Road
The Suffolk C-type is as visually close as one can practically achieve to the original cars that won Le Mans in 1951 and 1953. The original Jaguar C-type XKC
039 was used to form all our body moulds and is therefore dimensionally perfect.
At the Jaguar speed trial in 2006, our demonstrator 662 EBY, a 3.4 litre car achieved 138mph, and was still accelerating as it passed the timing beam. The
handling is taut and true to the C-type tradition. The suspension and brakes are all modern versions of the components used by Jaguar in 1953.
This car will give the owner a driving experience equal to that felt by Tony Rolt and Duncan Hamilton when they won Le Mans in 1953.
Personal Thoughts
History tells us everything, books like Philip Porter’s 1995 ‘Jaguar Sports Racing Cars’ inspire many readings to absorb the wonderful atmosphere. A few lucky
guys like myself have the team and the tools to recreate the amazing Jaguar C-type. Can any other reproduction of a Le Mans winning car inspire so much and yet
come at a price that is such a small fraction of the original’s value.
Our car is created to be exact in its dimensions and rewarding in its dynamic performance. The prototypes have been raced, toured and used on track days so are
well tested and give performance and handling every bit as good as the original. We have marginally improved the driver’s comfort but this is a no nonsense, no
heater, no hood and no prisoners’ car.
In The Cockpit
The view and the layout are exactly as the original 1953 C-types. Every effort has been made to ensure the Suffolk C-type looks and feels correct. Leather seats
and Hardura coverings to the transmission tunnel contrast with the bare alloy and black instruments and steering wheel. Storage space for light luggage items and
tools is included. All cars have improved legroom, driver comfort in the cockpit, servo brakes, safety steering column and fitted seatbelts.
Construction and Purchase
We are pleased to fully build the Suffolk C-type to customer’s requirements. New factory built cars can be supplied with an SVA certificate and a UK MoT
certificate. Age related number plates are available and cherished numbers can be transferred.
The Suffolk C-type can be purchased in component form or as a part built rolling chassis for customer completion. Suffolk Sportscars can supply every
component necessary for a self-build program and maintains a full after sales and works support program.
We welcome visits to our workshop to see our demonstrator and other cars currently being built. Additional information about Suffolk Sportscars’ builds can be
found on our website.
Bodywork and Interior
The body is made of reinforced GRP incorporating alloy panels wherever possible to keep them looking as original as possible. Louvres to the bonnet are in alloy,
Leather seats, Hardura over transmission covers, Lexan main screen and Mohair tonneau cover.
Typical Specification
Chassis Mig welded 16swg steel tubes with square and folded sections-all visually exact to the 1953 Jaguar design
Front suspension Jaguar E-type torsion bar and shock absorbers with Anti-roll bar
Rear suspension Jaguar MkII live axle with trailing links and A bracket reaction plate (or link with Panhard rod)
Steering Rack and pinion
Brakes Lockheed 11inch discs (servo optional)
Wheels 16inch 5J 72 spoke wires
Tyres Blockley 6.00 x 16 High Performance
Engine Jaguar XK
Displacement 3.4, 3.8 or 4.2
Bore and stroke To suit engine
Compression ratio Various (8.4:1 typical)
Power From 200bhp
Exhaust As per 1953 Jaguar works car
Transmission Jaguar or Tremec
Gear ratios Various 4 and 5 speed options
Final drive Live axle 3.54 or 3.31. LSD optional
Dimensions Exactly as 1953 Jaguar XK120 C-type
Length 13′1 ½″
Width body 5′0″
Width with spinners 5′3″
Height 3′6 ½″
Ground clearance 5″
Frontal area 13.81sq.ft
Wheelbase 8′0 ½″
Front track 4′3″
Rear track 4′3″

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1 Introduction
The scope of this manual is to provide all the information necessary to build the Suffolk C-type replica.
It assumes that all donor car parts are supplied by Suffolk Sportscars, fully refurbished and built into
subunits where necessary, ready for assembly along with all other parts required for completion of the car. If
a builder wishes to refurbish donor parts himself he should contact Suffolk Sportscars for advice first.
2 Garage and Tools
A single sixteen by eight foot garage is sufficient space to build the Suffolk C-type, but more room is useful.
You will need a small workbench and a vice.
2.1 Principal Tools Required
•Spanners - combination sets covering 3/8” - 1” AF and 10 – 26 mm
•Sockets sets – 1/2 inch drive covering 3/8” - 1” AF and 10 – 26mm
•Torque wrench – 1/2-inch drive of 100-ft/lb capacity
•Mains and/or battery drill with 1/2 inch/13mm chuck
•Drill bits – 1 – 13mm in 0.5mm steps
•Taper taps – various sizes, imperial and metric
•Allen keys - imperial and metric sets
•Selection of basic hand tools - screwdrivers, pliers, files and hacksaws etc
•Electrical test meter
•Side cutters and crimping pliers
•Sheet metal cutters for adjusting aluminium panels
•Nutsert set with selection of sizes
•Four axle stands - rated at one tonne each
•Trolley jack – a basic one will do but a two tonne model giving a fifteen-inch lift is well worth the
money
•Engine crane – capable of lifting up to one tonne. If you don’t wish to purchase one or have no place
to store one it is easy to hire an engine crane for a couple of days from a number of hire companies
3 Fasteners
Suffolk Sportscars can supply all nuts, bolts, washers and fasteners. This package comes as a complete and
comprehensive kit that gives descriptions, sizes and locations for chassis and body build.
Most Jaguar components use unified (imperial) threads, mostly UNF (fine thread) but UNC (coarse thread)
is also used for threads in aluminium. Exceptions are steering racks on some later cars where the track rod
ends are threaded. M14 fine (1.5mm pitch) and later brake master cylinders use metric threads. SU
carburettors use BSF and BA. Fuel tank senders are 2BA and Weber carburettors use metric.
It is recommended that stainless steel fastenings be used for fittings to the body and for those directly
exposed to road dirt and salt. Stainless fasteners in unified threads are difficult to obtain but metric ones are
readily available and are used for this reason wherever possible. It is also recommended that all non stainless
steel fasteners are high tensile bright zinc plated (BZP).

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4 Building up the Chassis plus Suspension and Final drive
4.1 Chassis kit
Parts required 001
A Main tubular chassis
B Front frame C/W lower fixings 2 of 5/16” UNF x 1”
Upper fixings C/W inner Wishbone mounts
C Rear frame C/W Lower fixings 2 of 7/16” UNF x 3”
Upper fixings 2 of 3/8” UNF x1”
This is fitted after the rear suspension and final drive
D+E Engine bay brace
C/W 8 of 5/16” UNF x 1”
This is fitted after installation of the engine and gearbox assembly
F Gearbox bracket C/W 4 of 3/8” UNF x 1”
This can be fitted anytime before installation of the engine and gearbox assembly
G Belly pans (9 pieces)
4.2 Fitting belly pans
1. To begin assembly start with the chassis upside down and temporarily mount the rear frame to the
chassis.
2. Lay on the rear frame belly pan and check for fit. Trim if necessary and clamp in place (always use
something to protect the panels and chassis from clamping damage). The belly pan should be the
same size as the rear frame but long enough to reach the rear chassis rail.
3. Mark out equal positions on the rear belly pan down the sides and across the rear before drilling belly
pan and rear frame to suit your chosen fixing method (this panel can be riveted and bonded on as it
does not need to be removable).
4. Remove panel to clear away any swarf before applying bonding medium if required and laying on
and fixing the belly pan to the rear frame.
5. In the centre of the rear belly pan is an access panel to the differential and handbrake; this needs to
be removable and we recommend fixing this using Rivnuts. These are basically nuts riveted into the
belly pan allowing setscrews to be easily fitted and removed without loss of thread.
6. Next, lay on the centre panel (wide end towards the front, all belly pan swages point down away
from the chassis) and line up the edges to run along the edges of the ‘C’ section chassis rails. The
holes in this can then be marked through into the chassis.
7. Remove the panel before drilling to accept your chosen fixing method (again we would recommend
Rivnuts as this panel needs to be removable).
8. Once the fixing holes are drilled and Rivnuts fitted, drill clearance holes in the panel to the correct
size for the fixings you’re using before returning the panel and securing on one side only.
9. Check the other side holes all line up before marking the position of the centre tube cross member on
the centre panel and the body mounting flange. Take the side panel for the side not fixed down and
slide it under the centre panel making sure the returned edge is against the chassis rail (the left hand
panel will need trimming around the handbrake cable bracket).
10. Align the panel with the body-mounting flange.
11. The holes in the flange can be marked on the panel ready to drill to 8mm and the holes down the
centre rails can be marked to match the positions in the centre panel. Also mark and pilot drill two
equally spaced positions through the panel into the tubular cross member before removing the panel
drilling the outer mount holes and drilling the tubular chassis and fitting with Rivnuts. Repeat with
second side.
12. Refit the outer panels and lie on the front triangular belly pan sections (these have a step to overlap
the main belly pan sections), and fix in the same way as the main sections. These five panels can
then be removed for safe storage during the build and the rear frame removed until later in the build.

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13. With the rear frame removed you can rivet on the final pieces of the belly pan set comprising the
boot floor (this will need flexing to pass through the frame) and the rear bulkhead which rivets on the
outside of the frame.
14. The main tubular chassis can then be turned the correct way up and stood on four axle stands as level
as possible ready for building the suspension assemblies.
4.3 Front Suspension
Parts required 003–021 +027
1. Take the front lower wishbone poly bushes (007), lightly lubricate and insert them into the four tubes
in the chassis. Once the poly bushes are in, lubricate and fit in the metal sleeves.
2. You can fit the lower wishbones (004). To establish the correct wishbone the inner end is splined for
the torsion bar and should be offset forward and the outer ball joint end turns upwards.
3. Apply copper grease to the pivot shaft (005) and slide this through the wishbone (hole nearest the
splined torsion bar hole) from front to back then add on the first of the three large holed serrated
washers then pass the pivot pin through the front chassis upright. On the pivot pin between the front
and rear uprights you can now slide on the second serrated washer followed by the spacer tube and
lower tie bar (006) with its outer end pointing forwards to meet the lower wishbone, then slide on the
third serrated washer before passing the pivot pin through the rear chassis upright. Finish off by
fitting the last serrated washer with the small hole and the castle nut but do not tighten yet.
4. Line up the wishbone and the tie bar and pass through the 1/2” UNF bolt with one plain washer
already on from the front (this bolt also locates the front damper (027) which can be mounted with
“c” clip facing rearwards). Use the second washer and nut to secure. You can tighten this but don’t
fit top mounting bolt yet.
5. Next take the torsion bar (016) and slide the teardrop mount (017) over the rear end slightly up the
bar. The front end of the torsion bar has a location groove and the teardrop mount splined and
extends rearward. You can then slide the torsion bars through the rear location on the chassis from
the engine bay. Drop the front end down and pass forwards through the chassis into the lower
wishbone and locate in the wishbone with the M5 bolt supplied through the location groove
6. Next make sure the wishbone is at its lowest point before sliding the torsion bar teardrop rearwards
and locating in the chassis mounting with the 3/8” UNF x 1” supplied in the inner mounting hole.
This hole is slotted and acts as a position-locking bolt. The outer mount hole of the torsion has an
adjustable mount to aid suspension height setting. Take the supplied 3/8 UNF x 2 1/2 setscrew fit on
a plain washer and pass it through the torsion bar adjuster mount bracket from the underside (the
bracket mounts on the chassis with the single hole in the horizontal and the twin hole section
pointing upwards) before adding another plain washer and a Nyloc nut. Screw this down until
almost tight.
7. Next screw on a plain nut and lock washer followed by the ‘C’ shaped adjusting bracket, this can
then be attached to the torsion bar outer mount hole with a 3/8UNF x 1 1/2 bolt with washers and
Nylocs.
8. Once this is hanging in position screw the adjusting bolt to get the head of the bolt just in line with
the level of the chassis before marking the mounting hole positions. These can then be drilled and
the brackets bolted in place.
9. Extend the damper and pull up into the top mount. You may need an assistant to do this as you are
putting pressure on the torsion bar. Use extra washers as shims to centralise the top of damper and to
stop the mount being squeezed in when tightened.
10. Now you can tighten the lower pivot pin castle nut and lock with a split pin.
11. Next take the upper wishbone inner mount (011) and secure with the lower mounting bolts whilst
using the top bolts to hold the holes in alignment. Before tightening the lower bolts add the slide in
shims, which control the camber angle. Four shims in each position will give a little negative
camber; five will leave it nearer neutral. The suspension settings will all need checking and adjusting
once the car is fully built.

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12. The top ½” UNF x 3” bolts locate into the cross brace bars (003). The rear bar may need a couple of
washers/shims to fit the gap and is best left out until the engine is fitted, whilst the front bar can be
fitted but in co-ordination with the front frame.
13. Locate the front frame with the brackets on the inside of the main chassis and pass the upper
wishbone mount bolts through the front frame mounts and then into the cross brace. Secure the
lower end of front frame with 5/16” UNF bolts and nuts supplied.
14. Lightly lubricate the upper wishbone poly bushes (010) and assemble in upper wishbones (009).
Hand pressure should be sufficient; then push in the metal sleeves.
15. Copper grease the pins of the upper wishbone inner mount and slide on the wishbones. Both
wishbones crank in towards each other. The more cranked wishbone is the rear item. Hold on with
large plain washers and half Nylocs but don’t tighten yet.
16. Between the outer ends of the top wishbones you can now mount the upper ball joint (012) using the
3/8” UNF x 3 ” supplied. Install three shims behind each ball joint, which can be changed later to
adjust castor angle. With the ball joint tight you can also tighten the inner mount Nylocs.
17. Next take the lower ball joints (008) and pass them through the lower end of the front uprights (013).
Secure with the 5/16” UNF and lock washers supplied. Before fitting the upright on the car remove
any paint from the inner surface of the front threaded lobes where the brake calliper locates. If your
upright has two different spaced arms (vertical distance between front and rear arms) the larger
spaced pair go towards the front of the car and are for the brake calliper, fit the upright to the upper
and lower ball joints and torque to 50 and 55 ft lbs respectively. With the upright fitted you can now
fit the stub axle (013) and steering control arm (024), the stub axle passes through the upright and the
inner end of the steering control arm and secures with the large nut supplied (torqued to 85 ft lb), the
steering arm needs to point to rear of car and mounts on the upper of the two bolt holes with the
steering arm finishing horizontal for the track rod end.
18. Take the front hubs (014) and mount on the front brake discs (019) with the 7/16” UNF x 1 ½”
supplied. Pass the bolts through the back of the brake disc then through the hub followed by plain
washers and metal lock nuts.
19. Keeping the front wheel bearings (015) as matched units press the outer race of each into the hub.
Thoroughly grease the inner race of each making sure you rotate them to work the grease in before
installing in the hub then press in the rear grease seal.
20. Now locate this on the stub axle of the front upright and fit the flat D washer and castle nut, tighten
the hub nut whilst turning the hub at the same time until its rotation is felt to be slightly restricted.
Now back off the castle nut between one and two flats and insert split pin to secure using the hole in
the side of hub to help.
21. Clean the protective grease off the brake disc before fitting on the brake calliper (018) to the front of
the assembled hub carrier using the supplied cross drilled 7/16” UNF bolts. Use an extra washer as a
spacing shim if necessary to centralise the calliper over the disc then lock wire the bolts together.
22. Lightly copper-grease the rear non-friction side of the brake pad to help avoid brake squeal before
inserting into the brake calliper and securing with pins (copper greased to aid sliding) and “R” clips.
23. Take the anti-roll bar (020) with its “D” brackets and poly bushes, lubricate the poly bushes and slide
them over the middle section of the roll bar (they are split bushes to help this). Mount centrally to
the underside of the chassis with the “D” brackets and 3/8” UNF bolts, washers and Nylocs.
24. The drop links (021) link the ends of this bar to the last spare hole in the lower front wishbones.
4.4 Rear suspension and final drive
Parts required 028-038
1. Next turn to the rear end and assemble the rear radius arms (034). The larger hole and bush is the
front chassis mount end and the three holes mid way along are along the top; they are not handed.
Take the front plate with the welded sleeve and keeping the weld to the outside of the car push it
through the radius arm. Then fit the other plate on the inside and secure together with 5/16”UNF
bolts with washers and Nylocs on the outside.
2. Next, install the rear bush carrier with its welded sleeve keeping the weld innermost and secure with
5/16” UNF and lock washers (the holes may need threads taping to 5/16 UNF). Now lightly lubricate