Suffolk C-type User manual

Build Manual
Suffolk C-type
Suffolk Sportscars Ltd
P.O Box 100, Woodbridge, IP12 9BA
www.suffolksportscars.com
Admin & Sales tel: [phone] - email: [email protected]
Workshops tel/fax: [phone] - email: [email protected]
Issue No: 011014

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Dear Customer,
Suffolk C-type Owners Build Manual
We hope that your chosen project of self building a Suffolk C-type will be as enjoyable as driving your car
following it’s completion.
Our emphasis is very much directed towards supplying the parts and assisting self build owners in the
satisfactory completion of their C-type. This manual is written logically and without jargon to take you
through the build process from start to completion. With this manual, to make the build even more straight
forward, is a picture CD ROM with index numbers corresponding to the manual.
You are most welcome to visit and revisit us to learn more, take photographs and talk to Philip, Mike, Fraser
or myself about building a car. You may not wish to, or be able to undertake some sections of the build
process yourself and we can carry out these on your behalf. We are here to help and ensure that your build
goes smoothly and according to your original plan.
Yours sincerely,

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Contents
Page
Foreword................................................................................................................................. 2
Contents ...............................................................................................................................3-4
Picture CD............................................................................................................................... 5
Origins and Spec..................................................................................................................... 6
1. Introduction......................................................................................................................... 7
2. Garage and Tools ................................................................................................................ 7
2.1 Principal Tools Required ............................................................................................ 7
3. Fasteners ............................................................................................................................. 7
4. Building up the Chassis plus Suspension and Final Drive ................................................. 8
4.1 Chassis Kit .................................................................................................................. 8
4.2 Fitting Belly Pans........................................................................................................ 8
4.3 Front Suspension......................................................................................................... 9
4.4 Rear Suspension and Final Drive.............................................................................. 10
5. Brakes, Clutch and Pedal Box .......................................................................................... 11
5.1 Clutch ........................................................................................................................ 11
5.2 Brakes........................................................................................................................ 12
Front Brake Lines................................................................................................ 12
Rear Brake Lines................................................................................................. 12
5.3 Handbrake ................................................................................................................. 13
5.4 Pedal Box .................................................................................................................. 13
RDH Brake Pipe Locations & Sizes ..................................................................................... 14
6. Engine and Gearbox.......................................................................................................... 15
6.1 Matting Engine to Gearbox....................................................................................... 15
6.2 Preparing for Installation of Engine & Gearbox Assembly...................................... 15
6.3 Installing Engine & Gearbox .................................................................................... 15
7. Steering ............................................................................................................................. 16
8. Fuel System....................................................................................................................... 16
9. Ancillaries (pre-body fitting) ............................................................................................ 17
9.1 SU Carburettors......................................................................................................... 17
9.2 Weber Carburettors ................................................................................................... 17
9.3 Alternator/Dynamo ................................................................................................... 18
9.4 Radiator..................................................................................................................... 19
10. Body Build Guide ........................................................................................................... 19
11. Fitting Body Centre Section............................................................................................ 22
12. Ancillaries (post-body centre fitting).............................................................................. 22
12.1 Rear brake pipe and bleeding brakes ...................................................................... 22
12.2 Fuel pipe, fuel filter and regulator .......................................................................... 22
12.3 Ignition coil ............................................................................................................. 23
12.4 Exhaust.................................................................................................................... 23
12.5 Dashboard ............................................................................................................... 23
13. Electrical and wiring................................................................................................24 - 31
14. Battery tray, battery and cut off switch........................................................................... 32
15. Rear body and doors ....................................................................................................... 32
16. Rear valance and spare wheel cover ............................................................................... 33
17. Rear lamps ...................................................................................................................... 33
18. Bonnet............................................................................................................................. 34
19. Front lamps ..................................................................................................................... 34
20. Interior fittings ................................................................................................................ 35
20.1 Interior floor and side panels .................................................................................. 35
20.2 Gearbox and prop shaft covers................................................................................ 35
20.3 Seat belts ................................................................................................................. 35
20.4 Seats ........................................................................................................................ 36

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21. Exterior fittings ............................................................................................................... 36
21.1 Bonnet straps........................................................................................................... 36
21.2 Headlamp covers..................................................................................................... 36
21.3 Front grille............................................................................................................... 37
21.4 Front screen............................................................................................................. 37
21.5 Brooklands screens and rear view mirror ............................................................... 37
Transmission Cover Preparation Guide................................................................................ 38
22. Finishing items and extras .............................................................................................. 39
22.1 Wheels and tyres ..................................................................................................... 39
22.2 Tonneau cover......................................................................................................... 39
Parts List ....................................................................................................................... 40 – 43
C-type Hardware List.....................................................................................................44 - 51
Rubber & Polybush Types and Positions ............................................................................. 52
Photo Index ........................................................................................................................... 53
Photos.......................................................................................................................54 - 63

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Mount picture cd here

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Suffolk C-type
Origins
In 1951,Jaguar Cars Limited entered three cars for the Le Mans 24 Hour Race. This was their first attempt at the greatest endurance event in motorsport.
Aerodynamic expert Malcolm Sayer and chassis expert Bob Knight had designed the XK C-type in secret, powered by the all-new Jaguar 3.4 litre XK 120 engine
designed by Walter Hassan and Claude Bailey, the unit produced 200bhp.
In night practice for the historic race, driver Peter Walker shattered the existing lap record with an average speed of 104mph. In the race he and Peter Whitehead
triumphed with first place for Jaguar in a race that became the forerunner for two more Le Mans victories in 1953 and 1954.
In 1960, Roger Williams commenced a management-training course in Ipswich with Jaguar distributer Botwoods Limited. Days at the Jaguar factory in Browns
lane and collecting Jaguar E-types from the works were all parts of life and memorable highlights of five years with the Jaguar dealership.
In 1995, Roger Williams created Suffolk Sportscars Engineering to manufacture modern reproductions of the 1936 Jaguar SS100. To date over 180 cars have
been built for discerning Jaguar enthusiasts all over the world. The idea of recreating the C-type has been a dream ever since Peter Walker crossed the line in “774
RW”. Suffolk Sportscars has built several C-types already including a car for demonstrations and test drives and will be building a limited number of cars each
year.
On The Road
The Suffolk C-type is as visually close as one can practically achieve to the original cars that won Le Mans in 1951 and 1953. The original Jaguar C-type XKC
039 was used to form all our body moulds and is therefore dimensionally perfect.
At the Jaguar speed trial in 2006, our demonstrator 662 EBY, a 3.4 litre car achieved 138mph, and was still accelerating as it passed the timing beam. The
handling is taut and true to the C-type tradition. The suspension and brakes are all modern versions of the components used by Jaguar in 1953.
This car will give the owner a driving experience equal to that felt by Tony Rolt and Duncan Hamilton when they won Le Mans in 1953.
Personal Thoughts
History tells us everything, books like Philip Porter’s 1995 ‘Jaguar Sports Racing Cars’ inspire many readings to absorb the wonderful atmosphere. A few lucky
guys like myself have the team and the tools to recreate the amazing Jaguar C-type. Can any other reproduction of a Le Mans winning car inspire so much and yet
come at a price that is such a small fraction of the original’s value.
Our car is created to be exact in its dimensions and rewarding in its dynamic performance. The prototypes have been raced, toured and used on track days so are
well tested and give performance and handling every bit as good as the original. We have marginally improved the driver’s comfort but this is a no nonsense, no
heater, no hood and no prisoners’ car.
In The Cockpit
The view and the layout are exactly as the original 1953 C-types. Every effort has been made to ensure the Suffolk C-type looks and feels correct. Leather seats
and Hardura coverings to the transmission tunnel contrast with the bare alloy and black instruments and steering wheel. Storage space for light luggage items and
tools is included. All cars have improved legroom, driver comfort in the cockpit, servo brakes, safety steering column and fitted seatbelts.
Construction and Purchase
We are pleased to fully build the Suffolk C-type to customer’s requirements. New factory built cars can be supplied with an SVA certificate and a UK MoT
certificate. Age related number plates are available and cherished numbers can be transferred.
The Suffolk C-type can be purchased in component form or as a part built rolling chassis for customer completion. Suffolk Sportscars can supply every
component necessary for a self-build program and maintains a full after sales and works support program.
We welcome visits to our workshop to see our demonstrator and other cars currently being built. Additional information about Suffolk Sportscars’ builds can be
found on our website.
Bodywork and Interior
The body is made of reinforced GRP incorporating alloy panels wherever possible to keep them looking as original as possible. Louvres to the bonnet are in alloy,
Leather seats, Hardura over transmission covers, Lexan main screen and Mohair tonneau cover.
Typical Specification
Chassis Mig welded 16swg steel tubes with square and folded sections-all visually exact to the 1953 Jaguar design
Front suspension Jaguar E-type torsion bar and shock absorbers with Anti-roll bar
Rear suspension Jaguar MkII live axle with trailing links and A bracket reaction plate (or link with Panhard rod)
Steering Rack and pinion
Brakes Lockheed 11inch discs (servo optional)
Wheels 16inch 5J 72 spoke wires
Tyres Blockley 6.00 x 16 High Performance
Engine Jaguar XK
Displacement 3.4, 3.8 or 4.2
Bore and stroke To suit engine
Compression ratio Various (8.4:1 typical)
Power From 200bhp
Exhaust As per 1953 Jaguar works car
Transmission Jaguar or Tremec
Gear ratios Various 4 and 5 speed options
Final drive Live axle 3.54 or 3.31. LSD optional
Dimensions Exactly as 1953 Jaguar XK120 C-type
Length 13′1 ½″
Width body 5′0″
Width with spinners 5′3″
Height 3′6 ½″
Ground clearance 5″
Frontal area 13.81sq.ft
Wheelbase 8′0 ½″
Front track 4′3″
Rear track 4′3″

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1 Introduction
The scope of this manual is to provide all the information necessary to build the Suffolk C-type replica.
It assumes that all donor car parts are supplied by Suffolk Sportscars, fully refurbished and built into
subunits where necessary, ready for assembly along with all other parts required for completion of the car. If
a builder wishes to refurbish donor parts himself he should contact Suffolk Sportscars for advice first.
2 Garage and Tools
A single sixteen by eight foot garage is sufficient space to build the Suffolk C-type, but more room is useful.
You will need a small workbench and a vice.
2.1 Principal Tools Required
•Spanners - combination sets covering 3/8” - 1” AF and 10 – 26 mm
•Sockets sets – 1/2 inch drive covering 3/8” - 1” AF and 10 – 26mm
•Torque wrench – 1/2-inch drive of 100-ft/lb capacity
•Mains and/or battery drill with 1/2 inch/13mm chuck
•Drill bits – 1 – 13mm in 0.5mm steps
•Taper taps – various sizes, imperial and metric
•Allen keys - imperial and metric sets
•Selection of basic hand tools - screwdrivers, pliers, files and hacksaws etc
•Electrical test meter
•Side cutters and crimping pliers
•Sheet metal cutters for adjusting aluminium panels
•Nutsert set with selection of sizes
•Four axle stands - rated at one tonne each
•Trolley jack – a basic one will do but a two tonne model giving a fifteen-inch lift is well worth the
money
•Engine crane – capable of lifting up to one tonne. If you don’t wish to purchase one or have no place
to store one it is easy to hire an engine crane for a couple of days from a number of hire companies
3 Fasteners
Suffolk Sportscars can supply all nuts, bolts, washers and fasteners. This package comes as a complete and
comprehensive kit that gives descriptions, sizes and locations for chassis and body build.
Most Jaguar components use unified (imperial) threads, mostly UNF (fine thread) but UNC (coarse thread)
is also used for threads in aluminium. Exceptions are steering racks on some later cars where the track rod
ends are threaded. M14 fine (1.5mm pitch) and later brake master cylinders use metric threads. SU
carburettors use BSF and BA. Fuel tank senders are 2BA and Weber carburettors use metric.
It is recommended that stainless steel fastenings be used for fittings to the body and for those directly
exposed to road dirt and salt. Stainless fasteners in unified threads are difficult to obtain but metric ones are
readily available and are used for this reason wherever possible. It is also recommended that all non stainless
steel fasteners are high tensile bright zinc plated (BZP).

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4 Building up the Chassis plus Suspension and Final drive
4.1 Chassis kit
Parts required 001
A Main tubular chassis
B Front frame C/W lower fixings 2 of 5/16” UNF x 1”
Upper fixings C/W inner Wishbone mounts
C Rear frame C/W Lower fixings 2 of 7/16” UNF x 3”
Upper fixings 2 of 3/8” UNF x1”
This is fitted after the rear suspension and final drive
D+E Engine bay brace
C/W 8 of 5/16” UNF x 1”
This is fitted after installation of the engine and gearbox assembly
F Gearbox bracket C/W 4 of 3/8” UNF x 1”
This can be fitted anytime before installation of the engine and gearbox assembly
G Belly pans (9 pieces)
4.2 Fitting belly pans
1. To begin assembly start with the chassis upside down and temporarily mount the rear frame to the
chassis.
2. Lay on the rear frame belly pan and check for fit. Trim if necessary and clamp in place (always use
something to protect the panels and chassis from clamping damage). The belly pan should be the
same size as the rear frame but long enough to reach the rear chassis rail.
3. Mark out equal positions on the rear belly pan down the sides and across the rear before drilling belly
pan and rear frame to suit your chosen fixing method (this panel can be riveted and bonded on as it
does not need to be removable).
4. Remove panel to clear away any swarf before applying bonding medium if required and laying on
and fixing the belly pan to the rear frame.
5. In the centre of the rear belly pan is an access panel to the differential and handbrake; this needs to
be removable and we recommend fixing this using Rivnuts. These are basically nuts riveted into the
belly pan allowing setscrews to be easily fitted and removed without loss of thread.
6. Next, lay on the centre panel (wide end towards the front, all belly pan swages point down away
from the chassis) and line up the edges to run along the edges of the ‘C’ section chassis rails. The
holes in this can then be marked through into the chassis.
7. Remove the panel before drilling to accept your chosen fixing method (again we would recommend
Rivnuts as this panel needs to be removable).
8. Once the fixing holes are drilled and Rivnuts fitted, drill clearance holes in the panel to the correct
size for the fixings you’re using before returning the panel and securing on one side only.
9. Check the other side holes all line up before marking the position of the centre tube cross member on
the centre panel and the body mounting flange. Take the side panel for the side not fixed down and
slide it under the centre panel making sure the returned edge is against the chassis rail (the left hand
panel will need trimming around the handbrake cable bracket).
10. Align the panel with the body-mounting flange.
11. The holes in the flange can be marked on the panel ready to drill to 8mm and the holes down the
centre rails can be marked to match the positions in the centre panel. Also mark and pilot drill two
equally spaced positions through the panel into the tubular cross member before removing the panel
drilling the outer mount holes and drilling the tubular chassis and fitting with Rivnuts. Repeat with
second side.
12. Refit the outer panels and lie on the front triangular belly pan sections (these have a step to overlap
the main belly pan sections), and fix in the same way as the main sections. These five panels can
then be removed for safe storage during the build and the rear frame removed until later in the build.

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13. With the rear frame removed you can rivet on the final pieces of the belly pan set comprising the
boot floor (this will need flexing to pass through the frame) and the rear bulkhead which rivets on the
outside of the frame.
14. The main tubular chassis can then be turned the correct way up and stood on four axle stands as level
as possible ready for building the suspension assemblies.
4.3 Front Suspension
Parts required 003–021 +027
1. Take the front lower wishbone poly bushes (007), lightly lubricate and insert them into the four tubes
in the chassis. Once the poly bushes are in, lubricate and fit in the metal sleeves.
2. You can fit the lower wishbones (004). To establish the correct wishbone the inner end is splined for
the torsion bar and should be offset forward and the outer ball joint end turns upwards.
3. Apply copper grease to the pivot shaft (005) and slide this through the wishbone (hole nearest the
splined torsion bar hole) from front to back then add on the first of the three large holed serrated
washers then pass the pivot pin through the front chassis upright. On the pivot pin between the front
and rear uprights you can now slide on the second serrated washer followed by the spacer tube and
lower tie bar (006) with its outer end pointing forwards to meet the lower wishbone, then slide on the
third serrated washer before passing the pivot pin through the rear chassis upright. Finish off by
fitting the last serrated washer with the small hole and the castle nut but do not tighten yet.
4. Line up the wishbone and the tie bar and pass through the 1/2” UNF bolt with one plain washer
already on from the front (this bolt also locates the front damper (027) which can be mounted with
“c” clip facing rearwards). Use the second washer and nut to secure. You can tighten this but don’t
fit top mounting bolt yet.
5. Next take the torsion bar (016) and slide the teardrop mount (017) over the rear end slightly up the
bar. The front end of the torsion bar has a location groove and the teardrop mount splined and
extends rearward. You can then slide the torsion bars through the rear location on the chassis from
the engine bay. Drop the front end down and pass forwards through the chassis into the lower
wishbone and locate in the wishbone with the M5 bolt supplied through the location groove
6. Next make sure the wishbone is at its lowest point before sliding the torsion bar teardrop rearwards
and locating in the chassis mounting with the 3/8” UNF x 1” supplied in the inner mounting hole.
This hole is slotted and acts as a position-locking bolt. The outer mount hole of the torsion has an
adjustable mount to aid suspension height setting. Take the supplied 3/8 UNF x 2 1/2 setscrew fit on
a plain washer and pass it through the torsion bar adjuster mount bracket from the underside (the
bracket mounts on the chassis with the single hole in the horizontal and the twin hole section
pointing upwards) before adding another plain washer and a Nyloc nut. Screw this down until
almost tight.
7. Next screw on a plain nut and lock washer followed by the ‘C’ shaped adjusting bracket, this can
then be attached to the torsion bar outer mount hole with a 3/8UNF x 1 1/2 bolt with washers and
Nylocs.
8. Once this is hanging in position screw the adjusting bolt to get the head of the bolt just in line with
the level of the chassis before marking the mounting hole positions. These can then be drilled and
the brackets bolted in place.
9. Extend the damper and pull up into the top mount. You may need an assistant to do this as you are
putting pressure on the torsion bar. Use extra washers as shims to centralise the top of damper and to
stop the mount being squeezed in when tightened.
10. Now you can tighten the lower pivot pin castle nut and lock with a split pin.
11. Next take the upper wishbone inner mount (011) and secure with the lower mounting bolts whilst
using the top bolts to hold the holes in alignment. Before tightening the lower bolts add the slide in
shims, which control the camber angle. Four shims in each position will give a little negative
camber; five will leave it nearer neutral. The suspension settings will all need checking and adjusting
once the car is fully built.

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12. The top ½” UNF x 3” bolts locate into the cross brace bars (003). The rear bar may need a couple of
washers/shims to fit the gap and is best left out until the engine is fitted, whilst the front bar can be
fitted but in co-ordination with the front frame.
13. Locate the front frame with the brackets on the inside of the main chassis and pass the upper
wishbone mount bolts through the front frame mounts and then into the cross brace. Secure the
lower end of front frame with 5/16” UNF bolts and nuts supplied.
14. Lightly lubricate the upper wishbone poly bushes (010) and assemble in upper wishbones (009).
Hand pressure should be sufficient; then push in the metal sleeves.
15. Copper grease the pins of the upper wishbone inner mount and slide on the wishbones. Both
wishbones crank in towards each other. The more cranked wishbone is the rear item. Hold on with
large plain washers and half Nylocs but don’t tighten yet.
16. Between the outer ends of the top wishbones you can now mount the upper ball joint (012) using the
3/8” UNF x 3 ” supplied. Install three shims behind each ball joint, which can be changed later to
adjust castor angle. With the ball joint tight you can also tighten the inner mount Nylocs.
17. Next take the lower ball joints (008) and pass them through the lower end of the front uprights (013).
Secure with the 5/16” UNF and lock washers supplied. Before fitting the upright on the car remove
any paint from the inner surface of the front threaded lobes where the brake calliper locates. If your
upright has two different spaced arms (vertical distance between front and rear arms) the larger
spaced pair go towards the front of the car and are for the brake calliper, fit the upright to the upper
and lower ball joints and torque to 50 and 55 ft lbs respectively. With the upright fitted you can now
fit the stub axle (013) and steering control arm (024), the stub axle passes through the upright and the
inner end of the steering control arm and secures with the large nut supplied (torqued to 85 ft lb), the
steering arm needs to point to rear of car and mounts on the upper of the two bolt holes with the
steering arm finishing horizontal for the track rod end.
18. Take the front hubs (014) and mount on the front brake discs (019) with the 7/16” UNF x 1 ½”
supplied. Pass the bolts through the back of the brake disc then through the hub followed by plain
washers and metal lock nuts.
19. Keeping the front wheel bearings (015) as matched units press the outer race of each into the hub.
Thoroughly grease the inner race of each making sure you rotate them to work the grease in before
installing in the hub then press in the rear grease seal.
20. Now locate this on the stub axle of the front upright and fit the flat D washer and castle nut, tighten
the hub nut whilst turning the hub at the same time until its rotation is felt to be slightly restricted.
Now back off the castle nut between one and two flats and insert split pin to secure using the hole in
the side of hub to help.
21. Clean the protective grease off the brake disc before fitting on the brake calliper (018) to the front of
the assembled hub carrier using the supplied cross drilled 7/16” UNF bolts. Use an extra washer as a
spacing shim if necessary to centralise the calliper over the disc then lock wire the bolts together.
22. Lightly copper-grease the rear non-friction side of the brake pad to help avoid brake squeal before
inserting into the brake calliper and securing with pins (copper greased to aid sliding) and “R” clips.
23. Take the anti-roll bar (020) with its “D” brackets and poly bushes, lubricate the poly bushes and slide
them over the middle section of the roll bar (they are split bushes to help this). Mount centrally to
the underside of the chassis with the “D” brackets and 3/8” UNF bolts, washers and Nylocs.
24. The drop links (021) link the ends of this bar to the last spare hole in the lower front wishbones.
4.4 Rear suspension and final drive
Parts required 028-038
1. Next turn to the rear end and assemble the rear radius arms (034). The larger hole and bush is the
front chassis mount end and the three holes mid way along are along the top; they are not handed.
Take the front plate with the welded sleeve and keeping the weld to the outside of the car push it
through the radius arm. Then fit the other plate on the inside and secure together with 5/16”UNF
bolts with washers and Nylocs on the outside.
2. Next, install the rear bush carrier with its welded sleeve keeping the weld innermost and secure with
5/16” UNF and lock washers (the holes may need threads taping to 5/16 UNF). Now lightly lubricate

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the front-end poly bushes and slide them in followed by the metal sleeve and do the same with the
smaller rear bushes. You can now grease the rear radius arm mount pins on the rear end of the
chassis and slide on the radius arms, locate with washer, castle nut and split pin.
3. Then install the rear dampers (033) with 1/2”UNF bolts with flat washers and Nylocs from the top
chassis mount to the centre of the three radius arm holes. The top mount may need washers or small
shims to centralise before tightening both fixings.
4. Bring the final drive differential assembly to the rear of the chassis with the prop shaft mounting
flange pointing upwards and the long brackets facing forwards. Locate these brackets with the rear
radius arm rear bushes in the centre and secure with 7/16”UNF bolts washers and Nylocs.
5. Before rotating the final drive into position prepare the two tie bars (037) by loosely bolting them to
the shorter brackets from the rear differential tubes that currently face backwards with 7/16” UNF
bolts washers and Nylocs. Fit the two rose joints with lock nuts and star washers before screwing
half way into the tie bars leaving loose at this point for adjustment.
6. Prepare the Panhard rod (038) by fitting its rose joint with lock nut and star washer on one end,
lubricate and press in the poly bush in the other end followed by the metal sleeve. Copper grease the
pin on the right hand side differential tube that currently points upwards and slide on the Panhard rod
with the centre hole of the rod lying over the prop shaft flange. Loosely fit the large flat washer and
9/16” UNF Nyloc.
7. You are now ready to rotate the differential into position and secure with the 1/2” x 2 1/2” UNF bolts
with lock washers through the rose joints into the chassis. Depending on the type of rose joint a
spacer may be required to hold the rose joint and lock nut away from the chassis as you don’t want it
to rub when moving up and down. Check the tie bars are holding the differential prop shaft flange as
vertical as possible. If necessary release the rose joints adjust and refit before tightening both ends.
8. The Panhard rod is there to hold the differential central to the chassis. Make sure it is central before
adjusting the rose joint and securing with 1/2”x 2”UNF bolt (in whichever hole holds it most central
over the differential), washers and Nylocs and tighten both ends and Nylocs.
9. Assemble the rear hubs (030) to the rear brake discs (032) with the 7/16”UNF bolts supplied. Pass
the bolts through the rear of the discs then locate the hub followed by flat washers and metal lock
nuts. This can now be installed on the final drive. With the key installed on the drive shaft (these
may need adjusting with a file to be a snug but not over tight fit) grease the shaft before sliding on
the rear hub and attach with washer castle nut and split pin.
10. Clean the transit grease off the brake discs before fitting on the rear brake calipers (031) with the
cross drilled 7/16” UNF bolts supplied. Using an extra washer as a shim if necessary equal on both
bolts to centralise the calliper. Lightly copper grease the rear non-friction side of the rear brake pads
before sliding into the brake caliper and secure with lock plate or pins provided.
11. Attach the rear handbrake calipers above the foot brake calipers with the supplied pins and “U”
springs, tighten the adjusting screw which passes through the top of the caliper until the disc is tight
to turn. Then back of a little until it can turn freely, line up the slot and secure with split pin.
12. Once finished the four corners of the suspension and hubs should be thoroughly greased via the
grease nipples fitted: one on each front hub and one on each end of the differential tubes for the rear
wheel bearings.
5 Brakes, Clutch and Pedal box
IMPORTANT SAFETY NOTE
The components of the hydraulic circuit have a mix of metric and imperial connections. The brake master
cylinder use’s metric M10 and M12. Most other parts of the system use imperial 3/8”UNF.Take care to
ensure correct fittings are used as incorrect ones may seem to fit but will not seal properly and could strip
the thread. Unions are generally gold in colour for metric and silver for imperial. Make sure unions are
tight enough to seal but not over tightened. A torque wrench is not suitable here but a torque of about 15 ft
lb is appropriate.

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5.1 Clutch
Parts required: - 042
1. Start off by removing the blank from the clutch master cylinder (042) and screw in one end of the
clutch flexi hose.On the other end screw on the Banjo union supplied with the clutch slave cylinder
(this will be connected up once the engine and gearbox assembly has been fitted). Pass the push rod
end of the master cylinder through the mounting hole just in from the torsion bar mount and secure
with the 5/16” UNF supplied. The clutch will be finished off once the engine and gearbox are fitted.
5.2 Brakes
Parts required: - 039 – 041
1. Start with the master cylinder and servo (040). Mount the master cylinder using the mount plate with
captive studs. Pass these through the mount position next to the clutch master pointing forwards
before offering up and securing the master cylinder with the two washers and nuts supplied. Next
mount the servo on its mounting plate. These holes are unequal so it will only mount one way round
(the servo needs to be mounted in a particular orientation to work correctly) before mounting the
bracket on the chassis with the three 5/16 UNF x 1 bolts washers and Nylocs.
2. The two fluid reservoirs mount with clamp plates to the two lugs welded to the chassis tube above
the brake servo. These can be test fitted with the connection pipes but will need removing before the
body can be fitted.
Front brake lines
1. Start off by fitting the two front flexi hoses (041) by screwing them into the front brake callipers, the
other end can then be secured with the nut and star washer to the front of the chassis just ahead of the
upper damper mounting pointing towards each other making sure not to twist or kink the hoses.
2. Next mount the front 3way union to the front upper chassis cross member (there should be a hole for
this in line with the right hand steering rack mount) with the unions pointing left, right and down.
3. Run the front left brake pipe F3 from the left of this connector behind the top cross member then up
and over near the end weld gently bending to suit without kinking to meet the flexi hose, connect up
to the hose and secure the pipe behind the cross member with two plastic “P” clips. Repeat with the
shorter right hand pipe F4 and secure with a “P” clip if necessary.
4. Next fit the second 3way union on the inside of the angle chassis tube near to the master cylinder
where there should be a 1/4” UNF taped hole (the union needs to be in line with the chassis with the
third outlet pointing up and back).
5. The rear inlet of the union needs to be connected to the outlet on the end of the servo with pipe F2.
Pipe F1 then connects from the master cylinder to the side inlet on the servo.
6. The front outlet connects to the front 3way union with F2 this can be run either through or over the
chassis engine mount and secured with two more “P” clips. Finish the front end pipes by fitting the
brake lamp switch in the spare point in the 3way union nearest the master cylinder.
Rear brake lines
1. Start by mounting the rear 3way union on the Panhard rod mount on the rear differential pointing
left, right and rearwards.
2. Use the rear facing union for the right hand brake line R2. Screw it into the union then gently bend
it to follow the diff tube towards the left then over the differential securing by the three of the metal
“P” clips. Carry on following the left diff tube and secure again with a “P” clip in the rear of the tie
bar, mount the pipe can then turn rearwards and into the brake calliper. Do the same with the shorter
right hand pipe R3 using the right hand outlet.
3. Take the third flexi hose and connect into the last point on the rear 3way union. Pass the other end of
the hose down and under the Panhard rod and secure through the bulkhead (there should be a hole in
the right hand side at the base).
4. Secure here with the nut and star washer supplied.
5. The last pipe R1 connects this flexi hose with the rear connection on the master cylinder and runs
from the flexi along the top of the lower chassis rail then to the outside of the rail until it gets to the
front and curls up to the master cylinder. We suggest trial fitting this pipe and drilling for the plastic

13
“P” clips to secure to the chassis but then removing this pipe for ease and safety of fitting the body.
This pipe runs along the outside of the chassis above the body-mounting flange.
5.3 Handbrake
Parts required 044
1. The handbrake mounts to the inner left hand chassis rail, beside the gearbox with the top face of the
mount flush with the top face of the “C” section chassis member and the rear end just ahead of the
tubular cross member. Secure with two 5/16”UNF bolts and Nylocs.
2. The rear handbrake cable pivot bolts to the rear differential with the longer unc bolts supplied, and
then the two handbrake link cables can be fitted between the pivot and the callipers using clevis and
split pins.
3. You can then fit the main handbrake cable. Take the end with the threaded adjuster bar and on it
screw one of the M10 nuts on the outer cable adjuster before passing it through the front cable
location bracket on the inner chassis rail. Add a shake proof washer and the second M10 nut to
secure. The threaded bar can then have the “C” bracket attached to it with one nut on each side
before attaching this to the handbrake lever with a clevis and split pin. The rear end of the cable then
passes under the chassis and through the Panhard rod and into the rear handbrake cable mount. This
is secured by two M10 nuts and a shake proof washer. You can then connect it up with another
clevis and split pin.
4. Using any or all of the three threaded handbrake adjusters, adjust the cable length so that the wheels
turn free with the handbrake off and 5-6 clicks on the handbrake locks them up.
5.4 Pedal Box
Parts required 043
1. To install the pedal box start by assembling the pedals on the shaft with the spacers supplied. The
pedals are identical and lean forwards. The angled end mount fits to the centre ‘C’ section chassis
rail and the horizontal end mount to the footboard tie plate. Offer the assembled pedal box to the
chassis and then clamp it to the chassis before taking the pedals, passing the shafts through the
footboard and securing to the pedal arms. Check pedal shafts for free movement through the
footboard releasing the clamps to reposition where necessary to allow the pedals good clear
movement. The upper part of the pedal arm should lay against and at the same angle as the heel
board with the pedal in the released position.
2. Once you are satisfied with the position mark the four mount holes before removing the pedal box
and drilling mount holes to 8mm, the pedals can then be refitted and connected to the master
cylinders with the clevis pins provided. The outer bolts will need removing at a later date to allow
fitment of the belly pans and the mount holes drilled through the belly pans before refitting the bolts
again.
3. The throttle pedal can be mounted by passing the shaft through the footboard from inside before
passing fixing bolt through the mounts and the pedal and securing with Nyloc nut.

14
C-type - RHD Brake/Fuel Pipes Locations & Sizes
(XJ6 Master Cylinder and optional servo)
FRONT SECTION
CODE
DESCRIPTION
LENGTH
THREAD
UNION
FLARE
F1
MASTER CYLINDER TO
SERVO or DIRECT TO
3-WAY BRAKE SWITCH
CONNECTOR IF NOT USING
SERVO.
8”
10mm LATE TYPE
MASTER CYLINDER
7/16 EARLY TYPE
MASTER CYLINDER
3/8 UNF
MALE
MALE
MALE
SINGLE
SINGLE
SINGLE
F2
SERVO TO 3-WAY BRAKE
SWITCH CONNECTOR
9 ½”
3/8” UNF
3/8” UNF
MALE
MALE
SINGLE
SINGLE
F3
3-WAY BRAKE SWITCH
CONNECTOR TO FRONT 3-
WAY CONNECTOR
26”
3/8” UNF
3/8” UNF
MALE
MALE
SINGLE
SINGLE
F4
FRONT 3-WAY CONNECTOR
TO N/S FRONT
20”
3/8” UNF
3/8” UNF
MALE
FEMALE
SINGLE
DOUBLE
F5
FRONT 3-WAY CONNECTOR
TO O/S FRONT
9”
3/8” UNF
3/8” UNF
MALE
FEMALE
SINGLE
DOUBLE
EXTRAS:
5no. 3/16” P-clips with self tapping screws
REAR SECTION
CODE
DESCRIPTION
LENGTH
THREAD
UNION
FLARE
R1
MASTER CYLINDER TO
REAR DIFF FLEXI HOSE
65”
3/8 EARLY TYPE
MASTER CYLINDER
12mm LATE TYPE
MASTER CYLINDER
3/8” UNF
MALE
FEMALE
SINGLE
DOUBLE
R2
REAR 3-WAY CONNECTOR
TO L/H SIDE OF CAR
50”
3/8” UNF
3/8” UNF
MALE
MALE
SINGLE
SINGLE
R3
REAR 3-WAY CONNECTOR
TO R/H SIDE OF CAR
18”
3/8” UNF
3/8” UNF
MALE
MALE
SINGLE
SINGLE
R4
REAR CALIPER LOOP PIPE
X2
11 ½”
3/8” UNF
3/8” UNF
MALE
MALE
SINGLE
SINGLE
EXTRAS:
5no. 3/16” P-clips with self tapping screws
5no. 3/16” P-clips with 5/16” securing holes and 2no. 5/16”unf x 3/4 hex head, nuts, washers
FUEL PIPES
CODE
DESCRIPTION
LENGTH
CODE
DESCRIPTION
LENGTH
FP1
MAIN METAL PIPE
1700MM
FP5
FILTER TO WEBERS
600MM
FP2
TANK TO PUMP
400MM
FP6
WEBER LINKS X2
165MM
FP3
PUMP TO REAR OF FP1
840MM
FP7
FILTER TO SU ‘T PIECE’
450MM
FP4
FRONT OF FP1 TO FILTER
250MM
FP8
‘T PIECE’ TO SU’S X2
250MM
EXTRAS:
6no. 5/16” P clips with self tapping screws
4no. 5/8” P clips with bolts, nuts, washers

15
6 Engine and Gearbox
Parts required 001 plus (gearbox brackets and engine bay brace) 052,079,081-086.
6.1 Mating engine to gearbox
1. If not already fitted, lightly copper grease the pivot ends of thrust release bearing (085).
2. Place the release bearing over the gearbox input shaft and locate pivots in the release lever. Locate
the straight ends of the spring retaining clips in the ends of the pivot and rotate the cranked ends
around behind the release lever until they click into the location points.
3. Align the engine and gearbox using a jack under the rear of the gearbox to aid support and to avoid
bending the input shaft. Lightly grease the input shaft before inserting thorough the clutch (you may
need to turn the gearbox to line up the splines). Once aligned push the two units together and line up
the dowels in the engine and bell housing. Secure together with 10 of 3/8” UNF x3” with star
washers and 4 of 3/8” UNF x11/2” with star washers and 6 Nylocs and flat washers. Once connected
bolt on the bell-housing flywheel lower cover (083) using the ¼”unc bolts supplied.
4. Fit the clutch slave cylinder (086) on the bell housing; the studs should already be fitted ready to
accept the slave cylinder. Secure with two 3/8”UNF nuts and lock washers, using the lower nut to
retain the return spring eye. Take the pushrod and screw on one 5/16”UNF nut followed by a lock
washer and the pushrod eye. Push the push rod as far into the slave cylinder as it will go (this is also
pushing in the piston in the slave cylinder), before lightly copper greasing the eye and locating in
clutch lever. Push the pin through clutch lever and push rod eye to secure. Make sure the clutch
slave cylinder piston is pushed in as far as it can then adjust out nearly all the free play in the clutch
movement. Once adjusted secure the pin using two 5/16” washers and a split pin, between the
washers where the return spring is located. The other end goes to the spring retaining eye on the
slave cylinder mount.
6.2 Preparing for installation of engine and gearbox assembly
Parts required 001,053,054,055,080
1. Attach the left and right hand engine mounts to the engine with the 7/16” UNF bolts and lock
washers. If using an alternator, turn the crankshaft pulley to line up the timing marks with the pointer
and remove the two lower most bolts on the left side of the timing cover. Fit on the alternator
bracket using the longer bolts supplied. Tighten the bolts ensuring that the timing mark pointer still
lines up.
2. Screw the threaded adapter and rubber mount into the rear underside of the overdrive unit.
3. Next prepare the chassis. Start by fitting the gearbox mount cross member (001) to the chassis with
four 3/8”UNF bolts. The plate must hang down from the bolts with gearbox mounting hole slightly
offset to the left of the chassis. Then loosely mount the rubber engine mounts on the chassis with the
5/16”UNF bolts supplied.
4. If the gear lever is fitted remove this before attempting to install the engine/gearbox as it will not
pass under the dash chassis cross member.
5. You are now ready to install the engine and gearbox assembly.
IMPORTANT SAFETY NOTE
The engine and gearbox weigh in excess of 350kg. Ensure all lifting equipment is rated high enough
including all strops, chains and shackles. It is helpful and safer to have assistance to install the unit into the
chassis.
6.3 Installing engine & gearbox
1. Rig the unit to the crane using the lifting eyes on the head leaving the rear chain longer then the front
to allow the gearbox to hang low and help slide it under the bulkhead cross member.

16
2. As the unit enters the chassis lower it slightly to get the gearbox under the bulkhead cross member
but don’t let the sump get too low and hit the front cross member. When you have nearly got the
gearbox back far enough you need to lift the gearbox as it comes back and drop it through the
mounting plate hole. Loosely hang the washer and Nyloc on here and then turn to lining up the front
mounts. Once all bolts are started get the gearbox as central as possible in the bulkhead and tighten
all the mounting bolts.
3. Next bolt the engine stabiliser bar in place. First take the plate with the four holes and bolt on to the
bell housing with the bush hole nearest to the engine. Then take the stabiliser bar and use a bench
vice to push the top hat bush (use bush lube) into the end before winding one plain nut up the
threaded section followed by the penny washer and the first half of the bush with the sleeve fitted
(check the sleeve is slightly shorter than the two bush halves, shorten if necessary). Pass the stabiliser
bar through the bell housing bracket before fitting the second bush half, penny washer, lock washer
and nut but don’t tighten yet.
4. Use the ‘Z’ bracket and secure the outer end of the stabiliser bar to the chassis with the two bolts
supplied and tighten. The inner end can now have the two nuts tightened at the same time to equal
the bush pressure and keep the engine in its rested position.
5. Finish off the installation by fitting the engine bay brace which fits between the chassis rails just
ahead of the low section of sump with the cross brace hanging slightly lower than the chassis with
the 5/16” UNF bolts, washers and Nylocs supplied.
7 Steering
Parts required: - 022 – 026
1. Start by installing the steering rack (022) using the brackets and bolts (023). The rack fits behind the
lower chassis cross member in front of the lower pulley. Insert the bolts through the clamp, which is
around the steering rack, and secure through the chassis with plain washers and Nylocs but don’t
tighten them yet.
2. Set the steering to its central position and screw on the track rod extension with lock nut and the
track rod ends. Position them so that when fitted to the steering arms, the hubs are roughly straight
ahead and the effective length of each track rod is similar. Tighten the lock nuts and insert the track
rod ends into the steering control arms and tighten the Nylocs. The steering alignment should be
checked and adjusted by a garage with professional equipment once the car is finished and ready for
the road.
3. Loosely attach the upper collapsible column (025) using the 7/16” UNF bolts in the upper mount and
5/16” UNF with spacers to lift the column in the lower mount. Mount the lower column between the
upper column and steering rack using the two universal joints supplied (026) (one of the joints has a
smaller spline which fits the steering rack). Rotate the column to meet the lower joint and to get the
column and rack as straight as possible. The joints should all just protrude just through the inner end
of the universal joint (the lower column can be shortened if necessary to achieve this). Finish off by
tightening the universal joint pinch bolts, upper column mount bolts and steering rack bolts.
4. You can also fit the adjustable steering wheel boss by removing the pinch bolt sliding the boss onto
the column before lining up the grub screw and the pinch bolt. Tighten the pinch bolt before
screwing in the grub screw; back this off a little before tightening the lock nut.
8 Fuel system
Parts required: - 001(rear subframe) 087-091
1. Once the rear suspension and brakes are complete the rear subframe (001) needs to be fitted as this
includes the fuel tank mounting. This is secured with four 3/8”UNF bolts plain washers and Nylocs.
2. The fuel pump (091) can now be mounted on the bulkhead of the rear frame behind the differential
on the right hand side horizontal strap inside the boot space.
3. Lay the fuel tank on the rear chassis frame to check the routing of the pipes. You will need to drill
and grommet a hole for the fuel pipe to leave the boot from the pump forwards. After the fuel pump
the fuel hose follows the lower frame rail under the differential tube as is secured with “P” clips. You

17
will have several lengths of braided fuel hoses, the two you need here are 400mm from fuel tank to
fuel pump and 800mm from fuel pump to rear of metal fuel pipe. The metal pipe supplied runs from
front to rear of the chassis alongside the brake pipe, as is best left off like the brake pipe until the
body is fitted although trial fitting is a good idea. You also need to drill and grommet a hole beside
the rear brake flexi hose union in the rear bulkhead for the metal pipe to protrude through enough to
attach the braided hose from the fuel pump.
4. The fuel contents sender (090) can also now be installed in the fuel tank (the tank sender is supplied
with the float separate from the activating arm). Attach the float to the arm by bending the arm
around the groove in the float making sure the float is at the correct attitude, i.e. its longitudinal axis
is parallel to the liquid level.
5. The sender mount is marked top to identify its correct position. Adjust the sender arm so that the
gauge reads empty with the float above the level of the fuel outtake so as to ensure there is still a
small amount of fuel left in the tank when the gauge reads empty. SS may already have profiled the
actuating arm for your ease.
6. Coat the cork gasket on both sides with sealing compound and secure the sender in the tank using the
six M5 or 2BA provided. Coat each screw with sealing compound as fuel can seep down the thread.
7. To secure the tank, lay some rubber pads under the tank and under the tank straps to stop vibrations
and movement. Lay the straps over the tank (one strap has a notch cut in it to fit around the filler
neck). Secure with the front mounting bolts to the chassis keeping the bolts as close to the chassis as
possible or the rear body bulkhead may catch when lowered into place. Insert the strap rear studs into
the brackets on the rear frame and fit on the plain washers and Nylocs but don’t fully tighten these
yet as you may need to move the fuel tank around a little to get the filler through the rear body
section. It can be tightened once the rear body and door/s are fitted and correctly aligned.
9 Ancillaries (pre body centre fitting)
Some ancillaries cannot be installed until the centre body section is fitted as they would overhang the chassis
and prevent the body being lowered into place.
9.1 SU Carburettors
Parts required 068,069,070
1. If you are using SU carburettors they may have been fitted to the engine before delivery and will be
supplied with a starting point calibration that will enable the engine to start and run. We recommend
that the car be rolling road tuned to ensure that the carburettors can be precisely calibrated and
maximum power and drivability can be achieved.
2. The SU carburettors can be left in place as they do not overhang the chassis although the air box and
intake trumpets will need to be left off until after the body centre section is fitted as these do over
hang the chassis. You will also need to install the throttle pedal linkage, which needs attaching to the
inlet manifold and connecting to the throttle pedal. Adjust this to allow the carburettors to be fully
closed with the pedal fully up.
9.2 Weber Carburettors
Parts required 068,069,070
1. If you are using Weber carburettors these will come separately and will need building up. These can
be fitted before the body centre section although care must be taken as they protrude further than SU
carburettors. The air box and trumpets will need fitting after the body centre section is fitted as these
do overhang the chassis.
2. The Weber carburettors are supplied with a starting point calibration that will enable the engine to
start and run. We recommend that the car be rolling road tuned to ensure that the carburettors can be
precisely calibrated and maximum power and drivability can be achieved.
3. Building the Weber carburettors is best done on a clean bench before fitting to the car.

18
4. Start off by thread locking the 12 x M8 studs into the inlet manifold. Hang on the three double “O”
ring seals. You can also fit the thermostat and housing using sealing compound on both sides of the
gasket before fitting.
5. Next prepare the Weber for fitting. Remove the silver single holed lever (you will need to gently
flatten the lock washer enough to remove the nut and to be able to reuse these washers). In its place
fit on the multi position lever with idle screw stop plate. Set this lever pointing upwards and
45degrees away from engine. Refit nut and lock with tab washer. These levers need to be on the rear
of all three carburettors. If not the front and rear fixings are interchangeable.
6. You will also need to fit the fuel inlet pipes. The front carburettor needs an elbow pointing
backwards. The other two carburettors need “T” piece pipes (all parts should be with carburettors).
7. Once this is done you can mount the three carburettors on the inlet manifold using one rubber “O”
ring between two cup washers followed by a Nyloc nut. Tighten until the cup washers hide the
rubber “O” ring and the carburettors look straight and even. Do not over-tighten as there is supposed
to be a gap between the carburettors and the inlet manifold with the double “O” ring plate floating in
between.
8. Next take the rose jointed eyes and screw them in the top of the inlet manifold (near the rear screw
of each carburettor). Trial fit the lever bar to check and adjust the levels before tightening the lock
nuts. Check that lever bar turns smoothly and freely. Remove the lever bar and slide on the first gold
colour lever followed by the first locking bush. Slide the bar through from the rear carburettor
before adding the next lever at the same angle as the first. Slide through the next eye before adding
the final lever also at the same angle. Finally slide through the last eye before sliding on the second
locking bush. You can now use the locking bushes to secure the lever bar in place with the majority
of the extra overhanging the rear carburettor.
9. Next take the three adjustable ball joint bars and set them to the same length (about halfway through
their adjustment). To ease future adjustment when fitted one end is left hand thread allowing
adjustment without removal and it is sensible to fit these all the same way up to save confusion later.
Once set equal, connect these between the carburettor levers and the levers on the bar above using
the outermost holes. The rear carburettor also needs the quadrant fitted at the same time using the
ball joint to secure one hole using a bolt to secure the lower position; this quadrant adds a hole
directly below the ball joint which will connect up to the throttle lever later. Once all the carburettors
are linked lock the top levers in line with the carburettors to stop them from sliding making sure they
do not foul anywhere. The final ball jointed bar has a swan neck on top and this connects from the
quadrant to the throttle pedal pivot.
10. To finish off the carburettors they need the return mechanism fitted. This consists of a short silver
lever, which slides on the rear end of the lever bar pointing 90degrees back from the carburettor
levers and in line with the rear inlet manifold mounting. Position and then fit the return spring eye to
the upper rear manifold stud. The two can then be connected together with the supplied spring. Any
extra length of lever bar from the rear carburettor can now be shortened accordingly.
11. The carburettors are now ready to be fitted to the engine. Hang the inlet manifold gasket over the
studs on the head before offering up the inlet manifold and carburettors (there is no need for sealant
here) and secure with 18 of 5/16”UNF Nylocs or plain nuts with lock washers. The throttle linkage
adjustable bar can then be installed between the pedal and the carburettors and adjusted to ensure
carburettors are in the closed position with the pedal fully up.
9.3 Alternator/Dynamo
Parts required 056/057
1. Attach the alternator to its lower mounting with the 5/16” x 5 1/2”UNF bolt with washers and Nyloc
but don’t tighten fully yet. If using a dynamo or a alternator dressed to look like a dynamo this
mounts on the lugs on the engine mount with two 5/16” x 1’UNF bolts and Nyloc nuts but again
don’t tighten these fully yet. The top mount is the adjustable threaded mount; the eye of this mounts
in the top outside bolt in the group of four bolts in the water pump. The adjuster is supplied with a
slightly longer bolt to account for the eye. Remove the short bolt and attach the eye with the longer
bolt not tightening fully yet.

19
2. The threaded end of the adjuster needs a 3/8”UNF nut screwed on followed by a plain washer then
the alternator/dynamo mounting block (the block should hang down from the adjusting bar with the
cut out at the front for the alternator to sit in). Follow this with a plain washer, lock washer and
3/8”UNF nut. With this in place connect the block to the alternator or dynamo with a 5/16”UNF bolt
washers and Nyloc nut. With the fan belt in place you can then adjust the tension by moving the nuts
in or out until you can just turn the longest run of the belt through 90degrees. You can now tighten
all the other bolts.
9.4 Radiator
Parts required 061-065
1. Start by preparing the bottom hose (061); this comes in three parts, the top section is the large elbow.
The lower section is the smaller diameter tube, with the reducer in between. Start by cutting the top
elbow to length, the end which mounts to the water pump needs to be shortened to allow it to turn
down before it gets to the steering column. The lower end of this hose also needs to be cut to a
similar length to allow the reducer to sit above the steering rack as the smaller diameter pipe will run
from here to the radiator lower pipe easier than the large pipe. This lower section will also need
trimming to length and will run down to the bottom of the “V” above the front cross member where
the radiator outlet pipe will be. Offer up the radiator to check what length is required. Once the pipe
is cut to length secure to the water pump and the reducer with jubilee clips.
2. Before fitting the radiator mount the electric fan on the front in the centre of the core using the zip
ties supplied with the fan. Use also the rubber protection pads on each side of the core. Mount it
with the cable exiting the bottom of the fan if possible.
3. To start fitting the radiator make sure you have the lower mountings to hand then slide on the lower
jubilee clip. Slide the pipe onto the radiator and secure with the jubilee clip. Locate the lower
mounts (these are top hat type rubbers which locate either side of the radiator lower mounts before
passing through the anti squash tube). These can be bolted to the lower mounts on the chassis with
the 3/8”UNF bolts supplied using a large plain washer on top to help secure the bush.
4. Next with the radiator sitting upright cut the top hose to length to fit between the radiator and the
thermostat housing and secure with jubilee clips. The third hose fits between the thermostat housing
and the water pump and can be fitted and secured with jubilee clips (this may already be fitted if
using SU carburettors).
5. You can also install the fan thermo switch in the threaded hole on the rear of the radiator to the left
of the filler neck using a fibre or copper washer to seal.
6. The last parts are the stabiliser bars. These mount on the lugs approx halfway down the top chassis
rails with M6 bolts and Nyloc nuts and reach to the webbing on the radiator. This will need drilling
but it is advisable to do this after the bonnet is fitted as the angle of the radiator will effect bonnet to
radiator clearance (the more the radiator leans back the more space there is between them).
10 Body build guide.
Parts required 128-132,135,140,141/2,146/7,150/1,154/5
1. If you have chosen to prepare your own body and fit the aluminium panels you will need to start by
preparing the centre body tub 141, Start off by removing the GRP return from along the bottom of
the body tub apart from the upright section at the front which will bolt to the flat plate on the chassis
behind the suspension mounts.
2. The centre section can now be lowered onto the chassis, this now needs setting into position by
checking for clearance of the front wheels (the front of the centre section will need to be
approximately 13” from the front damper mounting), if necessary cut a small amount of GRP away
at the back to clear the rear radius arms, Don’t fit any alloy panels to the centre at this point. Use
some G clamps to hold the body in place.
3. Next lay the bonnet 128 upside down and start fitting the alloy panels by offering in the main front to
rear sections, the alloy panels should be labelled for their location and may need some trimming to
size.

20
4. Once happy with the fit remove the panels and mark at equal intervals where they will be riveted to
the GRP and drill to size for your rivets, lay the panels back in the bonnet drill the GRP and
temporary bolt the panels in through a few holes while you carry on with the other panels in the same
way.
5. Once happy all the panels are fitting correctly remove the alloy panels and clean off any marks
before bonding and riveting in place, bonding them as well as riveting will help keep panels from
vibrating.
6. Next take the bonnet hinge bracket 131 and secure to the chassis front frame before offering up the
bonnet to the chassis and centre body section, use a trolley jack or similar to hold up the front end of
the bonnet and adjust the height to line up the side of the bonnet to the centre body (the bonnet will
need to be trimmed later to achieve even panel gaps). The positions for the four louvered panels and
the front grille can have most of the area cut out if needed as this can help to view and position the
bonnet.
7. With the bonnet in place the centre section will probably need to be lifted in the middle with a jack
and suitable short lengths of wood to get it to the same level as the bonnet. Once happy with the
position of the centre section remove the bonnet ready to fit the centre section alloy panels.
8. Start by marking the centre of the bulkhead panel and the centre of the chassis where the bulkhead
will bolt, this will ensure the bulkhead and the body will be fitted centrally to the chassis. Offer the
bulkhead to the body and mark any areas that will need trimming, the alloy panel will tuck into a
grove around the top of the centre body section and will need flexing to get it into the sides. Make
sure the alloy panel does not push hard into the GRP as this may show through the body at a later
date.
9. When the panel fits in, as with the bonnet section mark at equal spaces where you will be riveting
and drill for your chosen rivet size before returning the panel to the body, drilling the GRP and
temporary securing with a few bolts through the GRP and through the chassis rail. Make sure the
panels are not pushing hard into the GRP as this may show up later after painting. After this continue
by doing the same with the lower bulkhead panels on both sides of the body, these will overlap the
bulkhead and will be riveted to the bulkhead when fitting the strengthening top hat sections later.
10. Once these panels are also temporary bolted in you should be able to remove any props holding up
the centre section before returning the bonnet to the car to assure the bonnet and the centre section
still line up correctly. If you need to now is the time to adjust the bulkhead panels, when you are
happy the bulkhead and lower panels can be bonded and riveted in place and bolted to the chassis,
also the front end of the body can be bolted the chassis lower rails which will give the body a nice
solid feel now.
11. The bonnet can now be returned once more and lined up with the centre section before drilling the
hinge bracket holes into the bonnet alloy panels and bolting through into the strengthening plates. It
may help to use washers as shims between the chassis and the bonnet hinge to improve the fit and
position of the bonnet. Don’t finish the panel gaps until the rear body and door/s are fitted up and
centre section alloys all fitted.
12. Next turn to the rear body section 150. lay the rear body upside down and fit in the main front to rear
alloy panels, the front alloy panel between them can also be fitted (return facing forwards) but only
mount this to the GRP don’t connect this to the side panels yet as its position will need to be set on
the car.
13. With the rear body ready clamp a piece of wood, which is wider than the chassis across under the
rear end of the chassis to support the rear of the rear body section. The rear body section can now be
laid into place.
14. Check for fit to the centre body section, file if necessary to make the mating surfaces flat before
clamping together and when happy with the alignment drill and bolt the rear section to the middle
using two bolts each side on the horizontal surfaces and on single door cars use a series of bolts
around inside the curved body section. Once happy with the fit move onto the door/s.
15. To fit the doors start by fitting the door hinges onto the doors, the bottom hinge should be
approximately 90mm from the bottom door edge and the top 190mm. The front hinge bolts will be in
the door shut and the rear inside the door casing, using a set square mark the hinge positions on the
door to ensure the hinges line up level (the top hinge will overhang the door).