Tanaka TC-355 User manual

Service Manual
TC-355
UTILITY ENGINE
Date 05-19-02
ISM, Inc. • 1028 4th Street SW • Auburn, WA 98001 • Phone: [phone] • Fax: [phone]
www.tanaka-usa.com [email protected]

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Service Manual
TC-355
Table of Contents
Specification Chart & Torque Limits ………..……………………….2
Trouble Shooting ………………………………...3
Safety and Shop Practices ………………………………...4
Routine Maintenance ………………………………...4
Diagnostic Tools ………………………………...5
General Inspection ………………………………6-8
Engine Repair ……………….……………9-17
Warranty Statement ………………….……………18

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Service Manual
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Trouble Shooting
Engine Idles Poorly
Check Function of: Page No.
Clutch System ……………………….9
Ignition System: Spark Plug …………………….7, 8
Ignition System: Poor Spark ………………8, 11, 12
Fuel System : Fuel Tank ………….…….6, 8, 13
Fuel System : Carburetor …………..8, 13, 14,15
Air Filter ……………………….6
Exhaust System ………………7, 14, 15
Compression ……………………….7
Engine Lacks Power
Check Function of: Page No.
Clutch System ……………………….9
Ignition System: Poor Spark …………...7, 8, 11, 12
Fuel System : Fuel Tank ………….…….6, 8, 13
Fuel System : Carburetor …………..8, 13, 14,15
Air Filter ……………………….6
Exhaust System ………………7, 14, 15
Compression ……………………….7
Engine Stops Suddenly
Check Function of: Page No.
Ignition System: No Spark …………...7, 8, 11, 12
Fuel System : Fuel Tank ………….…….6, 8, 13
Fuel System : Carburetor …………..8, 13, 14,15
Compression ……………………….7
Engine Will Not Start
Check Function of: Page No.
Rewind Starter ………………6, 10, 11
Ignition System: No Spark …………...7, 8, 11, 12
Fuel System : Fuel Tank ………….…….6, 8, 13
Fuel System : Carburetor …………..8, 13, 14,15
Air Filter ……………………….6
Exhaust System …………………..7, 15
Compression ……………………….7

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Service Manual
TC-355
Safety & Shop Practices
oThe most successful and profitable service shops consistently seem to maintain the best habits of safety,
cleanliness, and orderly procedure. The following information is intended as a guide towards developing habits
that are necessary to accomplish satisfactory service work.
oMaintain a clean and orderly work area that is well lighted and adequately ventilated.
oTools, instruments, and parts needed for work should be clean and readily available before any job is started.
(Special tools available for servicing TANAKA equipment are listed in this manual.)
oEquipment should be cleaned before repair work starts. Cleaning will often help reveal a source of trouble.
oBefore attempting to repair or operate any equipment, read and understand all information provided by the
instruction manual for the equipment.
oNever attempt to service an engine that is running or still heated from running unless it is specifically required by
the manufacturer’s instructions.
oWipe-up all spilled liquids immediately. Use non-flammable solvents for cleaning. Clean all parts before
reconditioning or reassembling.
oThoroughly inspect all parts for wear or damage. Replace all parts that show damage or excessive wear.
oAlways recondition and /or repair equipment strictly according to the Manufacturer’s specifications.
oBe sure all shields and safety devices are correctly installed before performing any final operating tests.
oAfter completion of any service or repair, the equipment should be thoroughly cleaned.
Routine Maintenance Guide
Each Use 20 Hrs. 25 Hrs. 100 Hrs.
Air Filter Clean O
All Fasteners Check
Tightness O
Cooling Fins Clean O
Spark Arrestor Clean O
Fuel Filter Clean O
Spark Plug Clean O
Muffler & Exhaust Ports Clean O

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TC-355 Service Manual
Diagnostic Tools
Disassembly & Assembly Tools
Pin Remover
Part No. 009-29326-00
Flywheel Remover Set
1. Handle (006-29326-002)
2. Center Bolt (007-29326-000)
3. Flywheel Puller (006-2932-002)
4. Bolts (021-29355-00)
Compression Gauge
Part No. 27286 Pressure Tester Part No. 070-2000W-500
Ohmmeter (Digital Type) Engine Tachometer (Digital Type)
Part No. 001-29000-000
Three Point Spark Tester

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General Inspection
Once the engine is removed from the equipment, this is an ideal time to inspect for damage as well as potential
areas that may require repair. Some of the diagnostic evaluation cannot be effectively performed after
disassembly has begun.
Cover, Shroud, Fan Case
Inspect covers, shrouds, and fan case to identify damage or cracks due to
vibration, ground contact, etc. All of the shroud components are designed for
routing the flow of cooling air around the engine. Any broken or missing
components could lead to over heating of the engine during operation. Order
replacements as need.
Inspect the rubber spark plug boot for any damage that may cause a potential
shock hazard.
Ensure that the fuel tank is not damaged in any way due to possible ground
contact, excessive vibration, etc.
Any potential fuel leaks may be apparent during this initial inspection, as the
exposed fuel on the engine components may attract dirt. This provides a good
visual reference.
Recoil Starter
Ensure that the engine turns freely when the recoil starter is pulled, and
that the recoil starter rope retracts positively into the starter housing.
Fuel
If gasoline is present in the fuel tank, take the opportunity to empty it
into a clear container. This may reveal contamination such as water,
(as depicted in the photo – phase separation of gasoline and water is
very obvious), sediment, or the lack of two-cycle oil/fuel mixture.
Air Cleaner
Remove the air cleaner cover (A), and inspect the air cleaner element
(D). Ensure that it is clean and lightly oiled. Make sure the inside of the
housing that accommodates the cleaner element is free of dirt and dust.
The vented area of the crankcase, visible in the photo between the fuel
tank and the air cleaner body (B), allows air from the flywheel fins (C) to
be circulated to the exterior of the engine and is critical to proper
cooling. Ensure that there is no debris within the vent fins that would
impede the circulation of air.

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General Inspection Cont.
Choke Lever
Check to ensure that the choke lever (A) is able to rotate freely
within the air cleaner body, and that it has not been bent as to
prevent a good seal when closing over the air intake.
Spark Plug
Remove the spark plug rubber protection boot and high-tension lead,
and remove/inspect the spark plug.
Picture A depicts a spark plug that has a broken insulator. Picture B
depicts a spark plug that has fouled due to a rich fuel/oil mixture.
Picture C depicts a plug that has fouled due to carbon build-up. All of
these conditions will prevent the spark plug from functioning properly,
and will require replacement.
Picture D depicts a plug characteristic of healthy running conditions.
The electrode should have a golden/tan color, and no damage is
present.
Whenever the integrity of a spark plug comes into question, it should
be replaced. Whether the plug to be installed is new, used or cleaned,
it should be checked for correct electrode gap, which is .024”.
Cylinder Compression
Insert a compression gauge into the empty spark plug hole and
pull the recoil starter handle briskly several times, until the
needle on the gauge stops climbing. This reading represents the
compression in the cylinder, and is a good gauge of the piston
rings ability to hold pressure. The unit will struggle to run with
compression less than approximately 90 psi. Such low readings
indicate the need for service to the cylinder, piston or piston
rings.

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General Inspection Cont.
Spark Testing
While the rubber spark plug boot / high-tension lead are removed from the
spark plug, this is an ideal time to test the quality of the current being
delivered to the spark plug. Insert a three point spark tester into the spark
plug boot and briskly pull the recoil starter. The tester should reveal a strong
spark with a blue color. Lack of spark, weak spark, or yellow spark may
indicate a problem with another electrical component within the engine.
Ignition Coil Testing
Connect an ohmmeter to the ignition coil with one lead inserted into the spark
plug boot and the other making contact with the cylinder fins of the engine
(as shown).
Secondary resistance, when tested this way, should indicate 4.2 (+/- 1) KΩ.
If the reading is not within this range, replace with a new coil, (previous tests
for spark using a three point tester should have indicated a weak spark or
none at all).
If the reading is within range, and still weak or no spark is evident, replace
the ignition coil.
Fasteners
Check to ensure that all fasteners are tight prior to disassembly.
Loosening of fasteners on the carburetor side may cause erratic running
conditions, or even engine failure.
It’s always best to know if fasteners are properly torqued prior to engine
service, as problematic running conditions may be the result.
Fuel Filter
Using a hooked wire, reach into the filler neck of the fuel tank, and grasp the
fuel line. Gently pull the fuel line, with the fuel filter attached, through the filler
neck. The filter should be white in color and should be compressible between
two fingers. If it appears discolored or hard, replace with a new one.

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Engine Repair
ENGINE SERVICE
Troubleshooting should alert you to problem areas, and these problem areas
can be addressed as major sub-components of the engine:
•Centrifugal Clutch
•Recoil Starter
•Electrical System
•Fuel System Components
•Exhaust System
•Crank Case
It is important to properly identify which areas of the engine require service to
avoid any unnecessary tear down of components not requiring service.
CLUTCH SYSTEM
CAUTION: Never attempt to run the engine with the clutch exposed. The clutch is designed to overcome the force of the
spring, thus allowing contact with the clutch drum, ultimately providing drive to the PTO side of the equipment. If the clutch
is not contained within the clutch drum while the engine is running, the clutch components may come detached from the
engine and pose a risk of flying objects.
The clutch system is made up of the clutch shoes, clutch spring, and the bolts
and washers (flat and waved) securing them to the flywheel.
Using an impact wrench or a sharp blow to a socket wrench, remove the bolts securing
the clutch to the flywheel (right hand threaded, counter-clockwise for removal.) This
will enable all of the components to be inspected. Check for any signs of damage to
clutch shoes or excessive wear on the lining of the shoes. When new, the shoes have
approximately two millimeters of lining. Order spares as needed.
Inspect the wave washers mounted between the bolt and the clutch shoes to ensure
that they are not cracked and still provide spring tension. Ensure that the spring is not
cracked or broken. Replace as needed.
When re-installing the clutch components, attach the spring between the shoes then
add the bolts with the wave washers. Hold in place with the flat washers between the
backside of the clutch arms and the flywheel, and tighten the stepped bolts to
185 in.-lbs.

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Service Manual
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Engine Repair Cont.
RECOIL STARTER
CAUTION: The recoil spring is wound with significant force. When removed from the starter body, it
will rapidly unwind. It is recommended that you wear gloves and eye protection when removing the
starter spring.
The recoil starter is made up of the rope, spool and rewind spring. On the engine side
is the starter pawl and the nut securing it to the crankshaft.
If the recoil starter fails to retract the rope, or if the rope is broken or frayed, it will be
necessary to disassemble the starter.
Remove the small screw located in the center of the rope spool that secures the spool
to the starter body. This will expose all of the starter components.
Inspect the spool for any sign of warping, cracks or chips. Replace as necessary.
Ensure that the rope is not frayed and is tightly secured with knots to both the starter
handle and the spool. Inspect the starter body for any cracks or other damage.
Replace as needed.
Inspect the starter pawl cup and the spring-loaded pawl located within the cup. The
pawl pivots on a spring, and should have constant tension keeping it in place. If the
starter pawl spring is broken, it will be necessary to replace the pawl cup.
The spring is retained within the starter body by the spool as well as clips formed in
both ends of the spring. Check to ensure that the spring is not broken, and that the
ends are properly installed in the starter body. If the spring shows no signs of
breakage, it may not be necessary to remove it from the starter body.
When installing a new spring, use caution, as it is wound with significant force.
New replacement springs come pre-wound and wrapped with tie-wire.
Carefully grasp the spring with needle nosed pliers and hold it oriented in place
prior to removal of the tie-wire. With the tie-wire carefully removed, it will be
possible to insert the spring into the starter housing.
Ensure that the outside end of the spring (A) is properly positioned in the recoil
starter housing, and when the spool is placed over the top of the spring, the tab
on the inside of the spring (B) is properly located in the provision on the spool.
Prior to placing the spool over the rewind spring, apply a small amount of
grease to the inner wall of the center hole on the spool.
Wind the rope on the spool about three turns counterclockwise, as viewed from
the starter pawl side. Install the starter spool into the case, making sure that
the spool engages with the inner end of the rewind spring.
Install washer and screw holding starter spool in the case.
Recoil Starter cont.

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Engine Repair Cont.
Recoil Starter cont.
It is necessary to increase the spring tension in the starter prior to use.
Rotate the spool counterclockwise several times with the rope hooked
into notch (A).
Hold the spool to prevent it from rewinding and pull the starter grip out
to take up the rope slack. Let the starter rewind slowly.
Pull starter several times to check the spring rewind tension. If the
starter is not rewinding fully, repeat the process described above.
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
The electrical system includes the flywheel (1), the coil (2), high
tension lead assembly (3) and the spark plug (4).
To remove the flywheel, it is first necessary to effectively stop the
piston from moving within the cylinder. This is easiest
accomplished by rotating the crankshaft until the piston is on a
downward stroke, then inserting several inches of starter rope into
the spark plug hole. Upon rising in the cylinder, the piston will
contact the rope, and will not be allowed to complete its cycle or
crankshaft rotation. This will allow the flywheel-mounting nut to be
removed. The flywheel nut is right hand threaded. Removal is in
the counter clock-wise direction.
Electrical Systems cont.

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Engine Repair Cont.
Electrical Systems cont.
With the flywheel nut removed, a flywheel puller can be attached
to separate it from its’ press fit to the crankshaft. Align the center
bolt of the puller with the indent in the end of the crankshaft, and
thread at least two carrier bolts through the puller and into the
flywheel. Make sure that at least several threads are utilized in
attaching the carrier bolts, as they will bear the load of pulling the
flywheel loose. Damage to these threads will require replacing the
flywheel itself. With the puller properly attached to the flywheel,
use the T-handle to turn the center pivot point until the flywheel
comes loose from the crankshaft.
Remove the flywheel (refer to page 11 for disassembly
procedure), and inspect the integrity of the flywheel keyway, the
crankshaft keyway and the key itself. Any deformation of the key
or keyway will require replacement of those components.
After identifying the integrity of the coil (refer to page 8 for coil
testing procedure), or replacing it with a new one, check the air
gap between the coil and flywheel (A).
Gap should be measured with a feeler gauge and set at 0.014”.

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Engine Repair Cont.
FUEL SYSTEM
The fuel system consists of the carburetor (1), fuel tank (2), fuel
supply line (3), and fuel filter (4).
The carburetor is held in place between the air cleaner body and the
heat insulator block with two screws that are accessed on the
exterior of the cleaner body (with the cover and cleaner element
removed).
After removing the carburetor, inspect the gasket that mounts
between the carburetor and insulator block. Often times a
compromised gasket will show signs that it has allowed fuel to
escape. Replace all mounting gaskets when servicing the carburetor.
Using a straight edge such as a metal ruler, check the carburetor
insulator for any possible warping. If the insulator shows sign of
warping replace it with a new one.
Using a carburetor pressure tester, test the pressure-holding ability
of the carburetor. Attach the tester line to the intake fitting of the
carburetor (not to be confused with the fitting that accommodates
the purge bulb return line). The carburetor should hold 7 PSI.
Readings less than this indicate a problem within the carburetor.
Fuel Systems cont.

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Engine Repair Cont.
Fuel Systems cont.
The pump body of the carburetor is held together with four screws.
With these screws removed, it will be possible to inspect all of the
pump components of the carburetor.
Inspect all gaskets and diaphragms to ensure that they have not lost
their pliability, and show no signs of cracking or drying. If any of
these components are in question, replace all of them with a
carburetor repair kit (650-25124-90). Pay careful attention to their
position in the carburetor during re-assembly.

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CARBURETOR SERVICE
The main body of the carburetor consists of the carburetor body (A), the
throttle shaft (B) and the throttle wire receiver (C). Two screws secure the
throttle wire receiver and the throttle shaft to the carburetor body. While it’s not
necessary to remove the throttle valve for inspection, rotate it by hand to
ensure that it is able to freely rotate with the carburetor body and that it can
reach the full range of motion permitted between the idle adjustment screw
and the full RPM stopper on the carburetor body. Any binding should be
addressed by blowing forced air into the throttle valve/body area. If it still does
not rotate freely, the entire carburetor will need to be replaced.
Also ensure that the o-ring mounted to the carburetor body on the air cleaner
side is not torn or dried. Replace as necessary. (The o-ring is a component
contained within the carburetor repair kit.)
The fuel tank is mounted to the crankcase with three screws that extend from
underneath the tank, and through the tank-mounting bracket. Additionally,
there are three small spacers that fit within the bolt holes in the fuel tank itself.
Inspect the tank, tank cap, tank vent and fuel lines for any signs of leakage or
damage. Replace as needed.
With the fuel supply line disconnected from the carburetor it is possible to
check the integrity of the fuel filter. With the tank cap securely tightened, gently
shake the tank while partially filled with gasoline. If the filter is allowing gas to
flow, the agitation of the fuel in the tank will force fuel up and out of the fuel
line. If the fuel filter is in question, replace it.
EXHAUST SYSTEM
The exhaust system consists of the muffler / muffler gasket (1),
and heat shield (2).
The muffler is a sealed, non-serviceable unit. If the muffler is
damaged, the entire unit needs to be replaced.
Remove the shroud covering the muffler and cylinder. Remove
the muffler and inspect the exhaust port and mating portion of
muffler for any build of carbon. Carbon build up is a normal
occurrence in a two-cycle engine, and removal is a matter of
routine maintenance.

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Engine Repair Cont.
CRANKCASE / ENGINE
When re-assembling the muffler components, be sure that the heat
shield is properly installed with the muffler locator tabs properly
inserted. The heat shield is crucial to the cooling of the engine, and
improper installation can lead to overheating of the engine.
The engine components include the crankcase, crankshaft / connecting
rod, cylinder, piston and piston rings. Further, the crankcase also
contains the main crankshaft support bearings and the crankshaft
seals.
The cylinder is attached to the crankcase with four screws, which are
accessed from the top of the cylinder. With the screws removed, the
cylinder will slide off of the crankcase and piston/rings.
The piston is attached to the connecting rod with a press-fit wrist pin.
Removal of this pin first requires the removal of the piston pin retaining
circlips installed in the side of the piston, at either end of the pin. These
are removed with a pair of needled nose pliers, and are not re-usable.
New spares should be installed upon re-assembly.
Crankcase / Engine cont.

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Engine Repair Cont.
Crankcase / Engine cont.
With the engine taken down to this level, it is generally accepted that the piston
rings should be replaced. They provide the engine with the proper amount of
compression, and due to their inaccessibility, it’s best to re-assemble with new
rings. However, if servicing requires the removal of the piston, fitting of new
rings to the piston should not be done until the piston has been re-assembled
to the connecting rod, as the piston pin remover tool can cause damage to the
rings.
Using a piston pin remover, loop the strap end around the piston with the hole
aligned to allow the passage of the piston pin. It may be necessary to insert a
small screw between the remover and the piston pin, as the remover may have
a smaller diameter than the inside of the piston pin.
The crankcase halves are joined with four screws. Removing these
screws will allow the entire contents of the crankcase to be exposed.
Inspect the main support bearings, if they are in question replace them.
Upon re-assembly, install a new crankcase gasket between the halves.
Carefully inspect the crankshaft, paying particular attention to the
amount of play between the connecting rod and the crankshaft pin.
Side-to-side play (A) is normal. However, any detectable play in an up-
and-down motion (B) is unacceptable. This indicates the need for a
replacement crankshaft. The connecting rod and crankshaft are one,
non-serviceable part.