Tartan 3500 User manual

Tartan 3500 Owner’s Manual
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TARTAN 3500 OWNER’S MANUAL INDEX
1.0 INTRODUCTION
2.0 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS AND TABLES
3.0 CONSTRUCTION
3.1 Hull
3.2 Deck
3.3 Hull / Deck Joint
3.4 Rudder & Steering
3.5 Ballast
4.0 RIGGING
4.1 General Description
4.2 Spars
4.3 Tuning at the Dock
4.4 Tuning While Sailing
5.0 FUELSYSTEM
5.1 Fuel Tank
5.2 Fueling
5.3 Fuel Grade
6.0 POWER PLANT AND TRANSMISSION OF POWER
6.1 Engine
6.2 Transmission
6.25 Saildrive
6.3 Propeller Shaft
6.4 Shaft Alignment
6.5 Stuffing Box
6.6 Propellers
6.7 Removal of Propellers
6.8 Installation of Propellers
6.9 Propeller Alignment Check
6.10 Exhaust System
7.0 CONTROLS
7.1 General
7.2 Starting and Operating the Engine
7.3 Engine Shut Down

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8. ACCESSORIES
8.1 Installation of Through Hull Fittings
9. ELECTRICAL
9.1 General
9.2 Batteries
9.3 Alternator
9.4 Charging System
10. ELECTRONICS
10.1 General
10.2 Through Hull Fittings
10.3 Masthead Fittings
10.4 Electronic Equipment
11. SAFETY EQUIPMENT
11.1 Fire Extinguishers
11.2 Life Jackets
11.3 Life Buoys
11.4 Life Lines
11.5 Safety Harnesses
11.6 Flashlights
11.7 Dinghy or Life Raft
11.8 Flares
11.9 Fog Signals and Radar Reflectors
11.10 Anchor
12. MAINTENANCE
12.1 Gelcoat Surfaces
AWLGRIP Surfaces
12.2 Portlights and Hatches
12.3 Wood
A) Teak
B) Cherry
12.4 Bottom of the Yacht
12.5 Cove Stripe
12.6 Vinyl Rub Strip
12.7 Running Rigging
12.8 Lifelines, Pulpits and Stanchions
12.9 Winches and Blocks
12.10 Engine
12.11 Power Train
12.12 Electrical
12.13 Upholstery
A) Cloth
B) Ultraleather or Ultrasuede

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12. MAINTENANCE CONTINUED
12.14 Steering
12.15 Deck Fittings
12.16 Miscellaneous
13. FITTING OUT
13.1 Prior to Launch
13.2 After Launch
13.3 Stepping the Spar
14. LAYING UP FOR WINTER STORAGE
14.1 Hauling (Slings)
14.2 Cradle Support
14.3 When Yacht Is Hauled
14.4 Fresh Water Systems
14.5 Head and Holding Tanks
14.6 Batteries
15. WARRANTY

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1.0 INTRODUCTION
Congratulations of becoming an owner of a new Tartan yacht. Tartan Yachts is
pleased to have you join our "Clan" and wish you the best in your sailing
endeavors.
This owner's manual has been prepared to provide you with detailed information
for the use and maintenance of your yacht. Enclosed you will find not only items
pertaining to Tartan manufactured products, but it also includes individual
instruction manuals and warranty registration cards from suppliers of major
equipment items used in the construction of your vessel.
It is Tartan's policy to continually improve and modify our products. Thus you
may find that your Tartan has different details or equipment than shown in this
manual. In each case, the new details or equipment have been carefully
evaluated to determine that it is consistent with the Tartan commitment to
excellence.
Your Tartan is identified by a 12 character Hull Identification Number(HIN)
molded into the gelcoat at the top right comer of the transom in accordance with
U.S. Coast Guard Regulations. Please identify your model and hull number when
contacting your dealer or Tartan Yachts for any reason.
•
The first three letters of the HIN identify the builder with
code TAR
•
The next two identify the model (e.g. 46)
•
The next three numbers are the hull number of your
yacht(e.g. 145)
•
The last four characters identify the month and year of
manufacture (e.g.: E596 reads E as month and year
manufactured (May = E, 5 = 95), 96 as model year design.
It is the responsibility of your Tartan Dealer to commission your yacht in
accordance with the Tartan Yachts' Commissioning Procedure, a copy which is
included in this manual. Please be sure that the
Commissioning Check List
is
completed by your dealer and returned to Tartan, as failure to do so may
invalidate your warranty.
Tartan is striving to provide you with the most complete and detailed owner's
manual. Your Tartan dealer or the Tartan Yachts Customer Service Department
would be pleased to provide you with any information you require that is not in
the manual.

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RESPONSIBILITY OF THE DEALER:
All Tartan yachts are sold through Authorized Tartan Dealers who have been
selected on the basis of their knowledge of yachts and their ability to provide you
with the service you deserve. They are experts in their profession who realize
that they must provide you with a high level of service and attention when you
purchase a Tartan.
Your Tartan Dealer is responsible for the following procedures connected with
the purchase and commissioning of your yacht.
9Preparing a detailed specification list for your yacht, including options, colors
and upholstery selections at time of ordering.
9Inspecting the yacht on delivery for loss and damage in transit and the
processing of all claims against the transport company. Should you notice any
loss or damage you must notify your dealer within 30 days of arrival, as
neither the carrier nor Tartan can honor claims beyond 30 days.
9Inspecting equipment boxes that come with the yacht to assure that all items
are received in accordance with the Tartan packing list.
9Commissioning the yacht in accordance with the Tartan Commissioning Check
List. The dealer must check and initial each item on the list, and return the
list to Tartan.
9Activating and checking all mechanical systems under the conditions of actual
usage.
9Stepping the spars and installing all rigging. Tuning and adjustment of the
rigging must be carried out under actual sailing conditions. Incorrect
adjustments can lead to mast failure.
9Instructing you on the use of your yacht and all its systems.
9Providing all necessary assistance and service under the terms of the Limited
Warranty on your yacht, including the processing of all claims with Tartan
Yachts.

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RESPONSIBILITY OF THE OWNER:
For maximum safety and enjoyment of your new Tartan, due regard must be
given to the hazards of sailing and to proper maintenance procedures. The
following is a partial list of items that are the responsibility of the owner for the
safe operation of your yacht. However, this must be considered only a partial list
of the safety obligations of the owner to be used as a guideline. Consult your
local US Coast Guard and Power Squadron offices for additional information on
the safe operation of your yacht
Complete the Warranty Registration form and return it to Tartan Yachts
promptly.
Advise Tartan Yachts of any change of address, or change of ownership, to
assist us in maintaining an accurate list of owners for possible future mailings
regarding safety information about your yacht.
Confirm that all items that are the responsibility of the dealer, outlined in
previous section, are completed by your dealer.
Operate your yacht in accordance with instructions provided in all sections of
this owner's manual, the individual supplier instruction manuals provided and
all applicable US Coast Guard and other regulations.
Supervise the maintenance of your yacht by competent marine service
personnel in accordance with all instructions provided in this owner's manual,
the individual supplier instruction manuals, the US Coast Guard standards,
the American Boat and Yacht Council standards and all other applicable
standards.
Supply and maintain all additional safety equipment on board as required or
recommended by the US Coast Guard and International Offshore Racing
Council for your size yacht and the nature of the voyage.

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COMMISSIONING PROCEDURE:
The proper commissioning of your Tartan is the responsibility of your dealer.
This is very important in assuring the satisfactory operation of your yacht. The
construction and inspection of each Tartan is completed in the fullest extent
possible at the factory. However, further commissioning and inspection is
necessary under actual sailing conditions and usage. Also, this commissioning
procedure should be followed in subsequent years at commissioning time.
Commissioning Check List:
The attached Commissioning Check List procedure should be followed by your
dealer in commissioning your yacht. Each item on the list should be checked off
by the dealer as the work is completed. Both the dealer and the owner should
sign the bottom of the check list to confirm that all items are completed.
Proper Lifting:
The careful placement of the lifting straps used to lift your Tartan is very
important to avoid damaging the propeller shaft, and to assure that the center of
gravity of the yacht is midway between the straps. Additional caution should be
exercised to avoid placing a strap in contact with a speedometer or depth finder
thru-hull fitting.
Standing: Rigging:
The careful adjustment of the standing rigging of the mast under actual sailing
conditions is critical to avoid mast failure. The rigging should be adjusted to
maintain a maximum bend in the lateral direction, and will differ by model in a
fore-and-aft direction under all sailing conditions. The wire rigging will tend to
permanently stretch over a period of the time as strands bed into one another,
so repeated checking of rigging adjustment is necessary. Detailed instructions
for tuning the rigging are included in another section of this manual.
Bottom Paint:
Anti-fouling bottom paints must be carefully matched to the type of paint already
on the boat to avoid the blistering and peeling common to mismatched paints.

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COMMISSIONING LIST:
The following is a list of minimum commissioning duties to be
performed by both the boat owner and the dealer. Additional
operations may be required dependent on the model and equipment
thereon.
PRIOR TO LAUNCH:
Exterior:
Check hull, deck, shaft and keel, etc, for shipping damage and repair as needed. Prep bottom
and apply bottom paint including centerboard and inside of truck (if applicable).
Clean hull thoroughly.
Touch up boot and cove stripe where required
Wax topsides. (Gelcoat Only)
Check castle nut on prop shaft for cotter pin. (Folding and feathering props require additional
steps) Install zinc anodes.
Interior:
Charge and inspect batteries. (NOTE: Batteries are shipped from our plant with only partial
charge.)
Check hose clamps on ALL thru-hull hoses and tighten as required. Check that engine and
head have been de-winterized and that all drain plugs are in place.
Check oil level in engine and transmission.
Boats with pedestal steering: Emergency tiller fitted and tested; Rudder stuffing box checked
for leakage with boat underway.
Flush bilge area thoroughly with fresh water and run pumps to flush out excess building dust
which settled during the shipping of the boat.
Clean bilge pump and sump pump strainers. (This will need to be done quite often in the first
several weeks)

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Mast Stepping:
Attach backstay, leave turnbuckle extended.
Attach upper shrouds loosely.
Chock mast in partners. Refer to owner's instruction for procedure.
Tighten the mast tie down rod(s) if necessary.
Attach headstay to link plates. NOTE: Jib halyard may be used to pull spar
forward to facilitate headstay installation. Generally, the headstay is designed
to go in the second hole down on link plates.
Use either main halyard or main boom topping lift to measure from side to
side in vessel and tighten upper shrouds so masthead is centered in boat.
Before final tightening of upper shrouds, check that proper upward angle of
the spreaders has been maintained and go aloft to correct if needed
Tighten backstay turnbuckle.
Tighten lower shrouds so mast is straight athwartships. Lowers are to be just
a little looser than uppers.
Tighten intermediate shrouds.
With rigging adjustments completed, install all cotter pins in the turnbuckle
threads and re-check that all cotters are in clevis pins and opened to 20°.
Tape all cotter pins and unfair edges.
Install boom and rig mainsheet and topping lift. Check operation of the boom
outhaul.
Connect mast wiring to terminals inside vessel and check operation of mast
lights and electronics.

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After Launching:
Check bilge for water.
Check that engine exhaust is pumping water. Verify operation offorwar4 neutral and reverse.
To Be Done Prior to Turning Vessel Over to Owner:
Clean entire deck, including removing excess bedding compound from around fittings which
may continue to ooze for a short time after shipment.
Check for deck leaks caused by shipping. NOTE: all boats are thoroughly checked prior to
shipment, but fittings can loosen under shipment and handling.
Oil teak on deck.
After mast has been stepped and rigging tensioned - break engine coupling and check shaft
alignment. It should be within .003".
After the alignment is correct, re-tighten all shaft coupling bolts and engine · mounts if
required and safety wire the shaft set bolts.
Fill water tank(s) and check operation of water system for leaks as well as the hot water if
included.
Check head operation, holding tank and macerater pump. Operate bilge pump(s). NOTE: if
auto pump is installed, adjust switch level and assure that auto switch is not blocked by bilge
hoses. Operate sump pump, shower and drain collection, and on some models sinks.
Check operation of all running lights.
Run engine in gear for a minimum of one hour, and adjust shaft packing as required.
All fluid levels in engine is to be checked after test run.
All gauges should be operational.
Operate galley stove and oven (every burner). Adjust regulator if necessary.

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continued:
Interior teak oiling to be touched up as needed. We recommend Watco Teak Oil.
(Oiled Teak interiors only)
Adjust lifelines so they are taut.
Remove all traces of shipping tape.
Operate all winches and lubricate if necessary.
Check operation of all thru-hull fittings.
Operate all hatches and ensure that no binding occurs.
All interior doors, drawers, hatch boards, operated and planed down if necessary
after rigging is tensioned. A certain degree of swelling is to be anticipated. (Not
warranty, part of commissioning)
Check that all interior lights are operational.
Check the hoist on all sails and ensure correct halyard lengths as well as freedom of
movement of halyards, etc. Check and adjust operation of reefing system.
After Shakedown Sail:
Re-tension all rigging if necessary .
If excess headstay sag is apparent, use next lower hole in link plates or tension
backstay.
DEALER:__________________________________________________________
OWNER:__________________________________________________________
BOAT MODEL ___________________HULL NUMBER_______________________
DATE OF COMMISSIONING___________________________________________
Dealer Signature_________________ Owner Signature____________________

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Again, this manual is intended to help you to know your new Tartan Yacht. It is
most important to familiarize yourself thoroughly with all aspects of operating and
maintaining your yacht in a safe and efficient manner. Read your manual
carefully as well as the booklets supplied by the manufacturers of the
components. If any questions arise for which you can not find an answer, your
Tartan dealer will be pleased to help you.
It is Company policy that the Tartan line of yachts is continually upgraded and
improved. Thus, you may find your yacht equipped with gear different from that
shown in your manual. Any new piece of equipment will be in all cases equal to
or better than, its predecessor.
On taking delivery of your yacht, be sure to read and understand the Tartan
warranty. Complete the warranty card or the change of ownership card and
return it to Tartan immediately.
If you are a seasoned sailor much of the manual may be old news but if this is
your first boat, we hope this will prove useful. We know that you will have many
satisfying and happy hours of sailing in your Tartan Yacht.
Should you need to contact Tartan Yachts please use the following addresses
and numbers:
Tartan Yachts
Customer Service
1920 Fairport Nursery Road
Fairport Harbor, OH 44077
Phone: 440-354-3111
Fax: 440-354-6162
Websites: www.tartanyachts.com and www.tartanparts.com
We would like to take this opportunity to thank you for choosing Tartan Yachts
and we wish you good sailing.

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2.0 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS AND TABLES
Figures
Sailplan
Standard Deck Layout
Accommodation Plan
Major Mechanical Locations
Electrical Conduit Layout
Interior Lighting Plan
110 VAC Layout
DC Wiring Diagram
Freshwater System
Black Water System
Gray Water System
Tables
1 Sailmaker’s specifications
2 Forestay Dimension for Harken Roller Furling

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3.0 CONSTRUCTION
3.1 Hull
The hull of the Tartan 3500 is a single unit fiberglass molding which incorporates
a specially developed NPG/ISO gelcoated hull. Alternating layers of strand mat
and Unidirectional ‘E’ glass in Isotholic resin are locally reinforced and cored in
order to achieve an optimum balance of strength, stiffness and weight in the
laminate composite.
The construction process ensures the complete weaning of the laminate complex
with no voids or bubbles. Extra laminate is used in any area that would be
subject to additional stresses. The exterior finish consists of gelcoat molded into
the fiberglass backed up by a 4mm barrier coating of Vinylester anti-corrosive
resin. The boot stripe is applied using DuPont Centari Acrylic Enamel while
the cove stripe is a premium vinyl film. A core is sandwiched between the
laminate layers to add significant strength and stiffness properties to the hull, and
yet ensuring that overall weight is kept to a minimum. The strength/weight
characteristic of the sandwich composite as well as resistance to impact and
abrasion is magnified by the use of Unidirectional ‘E’ glass in the laminate.
3.2 Deck
The deck and cockpit, like the hull, is a single unit fiberglass molding with a
gelcoat surface. A core is incorporated into the structure between the laminate
layers for additional stiffness. A non-skid finish is molded into the working areas
of the deck.
3.3 Hull / Deck Joint
The top flange of the hull is capped with marine adhesive sealant. The deck is
then fitted and fastened through the Teak or Aluminum toerail by means of
stainless steel bolts. As the bolts are tightened, the sealant is forced into
exposed crevices. If a leak should ever develop in the hull / deck joint, the
through bolts may be tightened accordingly.
3.4 Rudder & Steering
The rudder is constructed of two molded composite shells, which are bonded
together and injected with two-part foam for added strength. The rudderpost is
all stainless steel with a flat stainless steel plate reinforcing weldment positioned
within the rudder.
Wheel steering is standard. The pedestal system is a silky-smooth Compact
Rack & Pinion Whitlock steering system.. The pedestal manufacturer (Whitlock)
has provided maintenance instructions concerning the steering system.

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3.5 Ballast
The keel of your Tartan Yacht is of lead alloyed with antimony for added strength
and cast to exacting tolerances. In addition to providing the yacht's stability, the
foil shape of the keel produces hydrodynamic lift while sailing to weather,
enhancing upwind performance.
The keel is fastened to the hull by means of stainless steel bolts, which are cast
into the lead. These bolts project through the bottom of the boat and are bedded
with a flexible Thiokol compound which allows for the divergent expansion and
contraction rates of lead and fiberglass to prevent water leaks. The bolts are
secured by stainless steel nuts and washers, which are visible in the bilge.
4.0 RIGGING
4.1 General Description
In order to tune your mast effectively, it is important that you are familiar with the
basic associated principles. Some definitions and explanations follow.
The term 'standing rigging' refers to fixed pieces of stainless steel rod or wire
supporting the mast. Those which offer fore and aft support are called 'stays'
(backstay, forestay, etc.). Those which provide transverse support are called
'shrouds'.
The shroud running from the masthead to a chainplate on the deck near the rail
is called the main or upper shroud. If it were to travel this route directly, the
angle of support would be so fine as to induce extremely large tensile forces in
the shroud and equally large compressive forces in the mast. To increase this
angle of support, a spreader is positioned according to load requirements. This
spreader should be angled upwards to bisect the angle formed by the shroud as
it bends over the spreader tip. A horizontal spreader, or worse still a spreader
angled downwards, is dangerous. The spreader may be forced to slip further
down the shroud resulting in the loss of the spreader and possible collapse of the
mast.
The spreader becomes a compressive member, and when properly loaded tends
to push the middle of the mast to leeward. To eliminate such a leeward bow, a
lower shroud is installed running from the mast at the base of the spreader down
to the deck near the upper shroud chainplate. The primary purpose of the lower
shroud is to provide athwartship support. The addition of the spreader and the
lower shroud means that the mast is supported at more places transversely than
fore and aft. Therefore, the mast itself need not be as strong transversely as fore
and aft. The mast then may have a lesser (more aerodynamically advantageous)
transverse dimension than fore and aft dimension.

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4.2 Spars
Based upon the relationships described above, the more spreaders and shrouds
used transversely, and the more intermediate forestays and running backstays
used longitudinally, the smaller the allowable mast section may be. This can be
advantageous as weight aloft and windage may be reduced in addition to
minimizing the undesirable aerodynamic effect of the mast on the mainsail.
The smaller the mast section, the less disturbed is the air flow across the main.
However, a practical and functional balance of rig complexity and aerodynamic
efficiency has governed the design of the rig of the Tartan 3500. Running
backstays are not fitted on this model. The spar section is sufficiently large with
appropriate wall thickness to be supported by a double spreader system; drag
and its detrimental effect on the main is reduced by virtue of the sophisticated,
aerodynamically shaped cross section to the mast.
Tuning involves adjusting the tension in these shrouds and stays so that the mast
will remain straight in most sailing conditions with an appropriate amount of rake
for comfortable helm balance. Tuning is carried out in two phases - tuning at the
dock and tuning while under sail.
4.3 Tuning at the Dock
All turnbuckles are equipped with toggles at their base, which eliminates bending
load on the swage and turnbuckle threads. Toggles are fitted to both ends of the
forestay. As the boat tacks and the headsail loading varies from side to side, the
forestay terminals are subject to extreme fatigue loading.
Start tuning the spar by ensuring that the mast is in the center of the boat,
perpendicular to the designed transverse water line. Your boat may not sit level
at the dock due to distribution of gear, stores and tankage levels, so check the
water line position both sides. Then slacken the lower shrouds completely by
undoing their turnbuckles. Take the main halyard and lead the shackle end to a
point on the rail or chainplate. Adjust the halyard so that the shackles just touch
the reference point on the rail or chainplate with a given downward tension, and
then cleat the halyard. Then take the halyard to the same reference point on the
other side of the deck. With the same amount of downward tension, you will be
able to just touch the shackle to the reference point if the mast is plumb
transversely. If not, let off one upper shroud turnbuckle and take up on the other
in order to bring the masthead closer to center line until the halyard shackle
touches both reference points under the same downward tension.
The particular part of the rail or deck you choose as your reference point is not
important as long as it is the same point on each side. Once the mast is
centered transversely, tighten both upper shroud turnbuckles uniformly, one full

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turn one side, then one full turn on the other. Repeat until the turnbuckles
become difficult to turn. Pin the turnbuckles.
Tighten the lower shroud turnbuckles so that almost all of the slack is removed;
the center point of each lower shroud should have about 1 inch of play in either
direction. Sight up the aft side of the mast to make sure that it is straight. The
lower shrouds may require adjustment to straighten the mast.
Now check the rake. Rake is the fore and aft angle of the spar. The Tartan 3500
spar is designed to carry up to (approx.) 9inches of rake. Rake effects the
position of the center of effort of your sail plan and, consequently, the balance of
the helm. The effects are more pronounced in heavier winds. The extent of rake
on our boat should be determined by your particular sailing characteristics, the
typical local wind conditions and your sailmaker's suggestions.
Forward rake should be avoided. The main halyard may be used to measure
rake. In calm wind and sea, with the boat floating level on her lines, hang a
plumb weight or equivalent, such as a hammer or wrench, from the main halyard.
Adjust the halyard so that the weight is suspended just above the gooseneck.
The fore and aft distance between the mast and the halyard at the gooseneck
level is the amount of rake. Ease off the forestay turnbuckles and tighten the
backstay turnbuckle (or vice versa) until the desired rake is achieved. Pin both
fore and backstay turnbuckles.
Unless the rake has to be re-adjusted in the future to correct helm balance, these
turnbuckles will need no more adjusting. Additional tension may be applied by
the backstay adjuster.
Check that the outboard ends of the spreaders are padded and taped to avoid
chafing the genoa.
Ensure that all turnbuckles are pinned. The mast should be fixed at the step to
prevent fore and aft movement and to hold the mast in the step.
You are now ready to complete the tuning procedure while sailing.
4.4 Tuning While Sailing
Select a day with a steady 8 to 12 knot breeze and reasonably flat sea. Put the
boat on starboard tack, close hauled. Sight up the luff groove of the mast. If the
mast seems to fall off to leeward at the spreaders, luff up slightly and tighten the
starboard lower shroud as necessary. Put the boat back on the wind and check
the spar again, adjusting as necessary. When the mast appears straight, bring
the boat about and do the same on the port side.

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Check the following carefully:
When the upper shrouds are at optimum tension and when at about 15 to 20
degrees of heel, the leeward rigging should look slack. This is quite appropriate
and should never be tightened. When close hauled under genoa and main, the
forestay may appear quite sagged. Tensioning the backstay will reduce the
amount of sag, but the sag itself can never be eliminated. As a rule of thumb, the
maximum static backstay pressure should never exceed one quarter of the
backstay breaking strength.
If your boat is brand new, the rigging may seat and stretch to the extent that
tuning from scratch again will become necessary in a matter of weeks. However,
after this initial working-in period, you will find that the rig tends to hold its tune for
considerably long periods of time. After becoming used to the feel of the boat,
you may wish to either increase or decrease the amount of weather helm. Any
sailboat, when sailing up wind, should have a slight tendency to "round up" or
head into the wind if the helm is let go. If you find it typically difficult to hold the
boat off the wind, the boat is carrying too much weather helm. This can be
alleviated by reducing rake, which will move the center of effort of the sailplan
further forward. Conversely, if you find the boat tends to fall off when sailing
upwind and you must constantly push her to weather, then the boat carries lee
helm and the rig will require more rake.
With constant tuning as the season progresses, your boats performance will
improve. The boat will feel more comfortable to sail.
You will find that tuning is a bit of an art and you will begin to notice subtle
changes in the behavior and response of your boat as you make subtle changes
in tuning. The important thing to remember is to go about the process in a slow
and orderly fashion. To record the details of the tuning and re-tuning procedures
as well as the results achieved will provide you a better understanding of the rig
and will serve as a useful reference for rigging the boat on subsequent
occasions.

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5.0 FUEL SYSTEM
5.1 Fuel Tank
The aluminum fuel tank has been pre-tested and is static grounded.
5.2 Fuelling
Before opening the fuel inlet deck cap, be sure all open flames aboard the yacht
are extinguished, no person is smoking and that the electrical main switch as well
as all electrical circuits are turned to "off". Once the tank has been filled, close
the inlet cap tightly and wash down any spills with fresh water.
5.3 Fuel Grade
For specific fuel grades refer to the engine Owner’s Manual.
6.0 POWER PLANT AND TRANSMISSION OF POWER
6.1 Engine
All necessary specifications and information concerning the engine installed
aboard your yacht may be found in the engine Owner's Manual. Read this
manual carefully so that it is thoroughly understood. The life and performance of
the engine will depend upon the care it is given.
6.2 Transmission
The reduction gears and reverse gears are contained in the transmission casing
attached to the after end of the engine. These gears normally require little
maintenance, however, the oil should be checked from time to time (see the
Engine Owners Manual).
To avoid damage to the gears and to increase clutch life, the engine should
ALWAYS be at idle when shifting gears.
6.25 Saildrive (Optional)
All necessary specifications and information concerning the Saildrive installed
aboard your yacht may be found in the engine Owner's Manual. Read this
manual carefully so that it is thoroughly understood. The life and performance of
the engine will depend upon the care it is given

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6.3 Propeller Shaft (Standard)
The shaft is supported at the inboard end by the shaft coupling and at the
outboard end by the strut which contains a water lubricated bearing. The shaft
passes through the hull at the stuffing box.
6.4 Shaft Alignment
The propeller shaft and the engine are carefully aligned prior to delivery.
However, each time the yacht is launched, the alignment should be checked,
particularly if there is excess vibration when the engine is running or if loss of
engine speed becomes evident.
Alignment is checked in the following manner:
1. Remove the flange bolts on the shaft coupling adjacent to the transmission box.
2. Support the weight of the shaft and coupling, then slide the coupling faces together by
hand.
3. While holding the coupling faces together, insert a feeler gauge of 0.003 thickness at 4
points around the coupling. (3,6,9,& 12 o'clock)
If the feeler gauge does not pull out evenly around the entire coupling,
misalignment is indicated. If the coupling faces are misaligned at the same point
of coupling circumference, the engine mounts can be adjusted until the coupling
faces match evenly. If the misalignment changes 180 degrees as the shaft is
rotated 180 degrees, a bent shaft is probable, and the shaft must be removed
and serviced as required.
Replace flange bolts after successfully completing the alignment check.
6.5 Stuffing Box
The stuffing box is located at the inboard end of the fiberglass tube, which
passes through the hull. The fiberglass tube and the stuffing box are connected
by means of a short length of flexible rubber tubing held in place by hose clamps.
These clamps and the stuffing box should be inspected on a regular basis. If
leaking is found, the hose clamps should be checked. If the leak is but a slight
drip from the packing nut of the stuffing box, we recommend no further
adjustment. If the leak is excessive, the stuffing box may be tightened by
loosening the lock nut and tightening the gland nut slightly (perhaps one-quarter
turn), then re-tightening the lock nut. Do not over tighten the stuffing box. This
may cause excessive heating and possible seizure of the unit.
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