Transient Modules 8S Manual

8S DIY build manual - Version 2.0
Hello!
This guide is for building 8S module from Transient Modules.
It is good to have basic soldering skills and to be able to identify electronic components
before starting this kit. In case you're an experienced DIYer, please read all the steps
thoroughly before starting as some of them may be not so obvious.
The 8S kit consists of two boards and all the parts comes in two bags separated.
See the parts list below to identify each one of them easily before start building.
Part Qty Part Qty Part Qty
Resistors: Regulators: Headers:
Resistor 100K 6 7805 1 8 pin header female 2
Resistor 10K 5 7905 1 8 pin header male 2
Resistor 1K 2 4x2 pin header female 1
Ics: 4x2 pin header male 1
Capacitors: Atmega328P 1 3 pin angled header 2
100nF 8 DG408DJ 1 Power connector 1
22pF 2 TL072 1
10uF electrolytic 2 CD4051 (SMD) 1 Transistors:
2N3904 5
Diodes: Spacers:
1N4007 2 10mm spacer 1 Others:
11mm spacer 1 LEDs 8
Potentiometers: Knurled nuts 6
100KB 8 Screws: Ferrite bead 2
100K SMD Trim pot 1 M2 hexagonal screw 1 Crystal 16MHz 1
M2 phillips screw 1 Jumper 2
Sockets: M3 silver screw 2 Panel 1
ICs 3 M3 black screw 2 Bottom PCB 1
Jacks 6 Top PCB 1
Ribbon Cable 1
ʕ•ᴥ•ʔ

8S DIY build manual - Version 2.0
1. Let's begin with the back PCB.
Start by emptying the bag of parts into
a bowl or container. This makes it
much easier to pick them and you’re a
lot less likely to lose anything.
2. Solder the 5x 10K resistors.
Colour code: brown, black, black, red,
brown.
3. Solder the 6x 100K resistors.
Colour code: brown, black, black, orange,
brown.
4. Solder the 1K resistor.
Colour code: brown, black, black, brown,
brown.
5. Solder the 7x 100nF capacitors
(labelled 104).

8S DIY build manual - Version 2.0
6. Solder the 2x 22pF capacitors
(labelled 220).
7. Solder the two 10uF electrolytic
capacitors (labelled 10uF).
NOTE! Orientation is vital.!"#$!%&'(!
%$(!)#&*%+!,$!-&)./.&'$+!.'!/#$!-0+!
1023$+!4./#!/#$!5!)61,&%7!
8. Solder the two ferrite beads.
9. Solder the two 1N4007 diodes.
NOTE! Orientation is vital. The gray
ring on the diode must match the
silkscreen.
10. Solder the 5x 2N3904 transistors.
Labelled T1, T2, T3, T4, T5.

8S DIY build manual - Version 2.0
11. Solder the 7805 regulator.
NOTE! Check three times before
soldering, 7805 is very similar to 7905
and swapping these two by mistake will
fry the module.
12. Solder the 7905 regulator.
13. Solder the 16MHz crystal.
14. Solder the trimmer.
15. Next solder the 2x 3 pin angled
header. Push the black plastic part all
the way down as shown below to
make sure they sit completely in the
PCB and position them as in the
image.

8S DIY build manual - Version 2.0
16. Solder the power header.
17. Solder the three IC Sockets.
Make sure the notches in the sockets
match the silkscreen.
18. Next take the TL072, DG408,
ATMEGA328P and position with the
notch on the top face at the same end
as the notch in the socket.
NOTE! "#$!-.')!&'!/#$!89)!'$$+!/&!,$!
,$'/!.'402+)!)%.(#/%6:!/#$6!4.%%!;&1$!
)%.(#/%6!)-%06$+!&*/7!
19. Place the two 8 pin female
header and the 2x4 pin female
header and solder both ensuring they
are 90º to the PCB.
:) Back PCB is now finished! :)
20. Front PCB! First, solder the
CD4051. Position it with the line on
the top face at the same end as the
notch in the silkscreen.
<.+$&!&=!0!(&&+!>?@!)&%+$2.'(!-2&;$+*2$:!.'
;0)$!./A)!6&*2!B2)/!/.1$C! http://bit.ly/2pPBRyx

8S DIY build manual - Version 2.0
21. Solder the remaining 100nF
capacitor.
22. Solder the remaining 1K resistor,
labelled “RLEDS”.
Colour code: brown, black, black, brown,
brown.
23. Solder the two 8 pin male header
and the 2x4 pin male header
ensuring they're all 90º to the PCB.
NOTE! This part is placed at the bottom
of the PCB and soldered from the top, as
shown.
24. Screw the 11mm spacer (the one
which is slighlty bigger) as shown,
using a M3 black screw.
25. Place the 8x 100KB pots. Make
sure they're fully inserted. Also place
the 6x jack sockets and the 8x LEDs.
NOTE! "#$!%&'(!%$(!&=!/#$!DE@)!1*)/!,$!
-&)./.&'$+!.'!/#$!-0+!1023$+!0)!A5A7!
!! DON'T SOLDER ANYTHING YET !!
26. Screw the 10mm spacer to the
panel using the M2 hexagonal screw.

8S DIY build manual - Version 2.0
27. Place the front panel moving a
little the parts if necessary.
28. The spacer in the panel must
match the hole in the PCB. Join both
using the M2 phillips screw.
29. Place the 6 jack nuts and make
sure that the OUTPUT nut in the
bottom is centered with the silkscreen
in the panel.
30. Make sure all the leds are
positioned through their respective
holes on the panel (you can center the
potentiometers a bit as well). Now you
can solder all the jack sockets, leds
and potentiometers.
31. Join the front PCB and the back
PCB using the pin headers and
ensuring the hole on the board match
the spacer. Screw both boards with
the remaining M3 black screw.
32. Connect the ribbon cable. The red
stripe on the cable must line up with
the line indication on the back of the
module. And...
: ) Module finished! : )
Please read below for testing and
calibration.

8S DIY build manual - Version 2.0
TESTING AND CALIBRATION:
The 8S should automatically jump to step 1 when powering it up. If it does not, power off the case
because there's something wrong. Write us and we'll figure it out!
If it jumps to the step 1 at power up, patch a clock singal into the CLK input. It must run in cycle.
First, check that all the leds light up and that there's voltage present at the output for each step.
Second, check that all the inputs work properly by connecting a positive offset voltage into each one
of them individually, while it receives a clock signal. Here's the 8S demo video in case you want to
make sure of the behaviour of each input: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3G85gdKKbb4
About the ADJ trimmer:
Some digital modules need few milliseconds to generate signals. This trimmer makes the 8S read its
inputs after those signals have been generated. Using the 8S with analog modules, set it completely
clockwise. With digital modules try few spots turning it counter-clockwise until the 8S 'catch' the
external signals properly. Don't be meticulous, precision it's not critical here. The trimmer is read on
each power cycle, so you'll need to turn off and on your case every time you change its position.
About the HOLD1 / HOLD2 jumper:
This new version of the 8S has 2 possible behaviours for the HOLD input. If the jumper is set at
HOLD1, as long as the 8S detects a high state at the HLD input, it will hold on that step. If the jumper
is set at HOLD2, when there is a high state detected at the HLD input, the 8S will hold the voltage of
that specific step at the output. If a clock signal is received, the step will change to the next position
but the voltage will remain the one from the previous step, until HLD receives low again.
Something is not working as it should? *
Did you like the build manual? *
You had problems during the build process or have an idea that could improve it? *
Are you missing any part? *
Were you soldering slighlty drunk and did a mess? *
* Based in real e-mails.
Then, write us to: [email protected]
If everything went fine: congratulations and enjoythe module!
Transient Modules · 2019