TubeOhm De-Generator User manual

De-Generator
DIY sample synthesizer
Building instruction 1, the panelboard
V1.0 english
stand 08.04. 019
www.tubeohm.com
1

De-Generator part Layout
Preface
We try to write the DIY manual as detailed as possible.
If you have any questions, please contact us at [e-mail]
If you can't get on with a component, let it go first, clarify the situation with us, and then
you can move on. It is essential - check beforehand - not after !!
The power lies in peace, please choose the parts you need and check twice if they are the
right parts. LED's, electrolytic capacitors, resistor arrays, MIC etc. have a polarity. Before
you solder components in, you better check twice. The resistors should also be measured
through before soldering. Nothing is more annoying than searching for hours because a
wrong resistance has been soldered in.
For LEDs, potentiometers, buttons and encoders... one or two legs can be soldered on
first. Then it is much easier to straighten the component. If everything is straight and
consistent, the component is completely soldered.
The IC sockets can also be soldered crosswise to two pins. The socket should lay
flat on the PCB. If not, heat both pins a ain and press it onto the PCB.
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--
1
Pannel-Board
DE-GENERATOR
POT-1 POT-2
VOLUME
PAGES
TubeOhm Instruments
MIDI-IN
ER-TFTM03 -3
ARP/ SEQRECORD
LFO3LFO2LFO1
CANCEL
DELSAVE
LOAD
MOD-MATLFOENV
VCF
OSC
R14R13
10k lo POT
74HC573N
IC1
LED-RES LED-RES
K14

So now we start with the first of three DIY manuals for the de- enerator.
We'll start with the panel board. It is relatively easy to build.
Required tools :
1:) Soldering iron, best adjustable, solder and a suction pump
:) a cutter
3:) multimeter
Here are some tips :
Guys, pick up the circuit board and take a look at it first.
The solder pads are so big that there should be no problems. Check that you have the
right tip on the soldering iron and also look at the regions on the board where the wires
come a little closer together. In these regions you should then solder more carefully.
Please remember - one part is quickly soldered in but it is very tricky to get it out !
If you don't know 100% exactly which part should be soldered in - leave it off and call or
mail us and ask. It's better to ask once than to search for errors for hours afterwards.
I can understand that you want the de-generator to be finished quickly, but if you work too
fast you make mistakes very quickly.
Please also check the connectors K3,K4,K14 and the MIC connector.
These are soldered in almost last, and at the bottom.
The enclosed microphone should also be soldered quickly so that it does not get too hot.
Of course you have to make sure that all potentiometers, encoders and switches are
soldered straight onto the board. If you have the Plexiglas case you can use the top side
as a template.
If the components are soldered on crooked, the housing will not fit afterwards and "it looks
sh***t (bad).
For people who want to install LEDs with other colors :
Different coloured LEDs can be used. The total current for 4 LEDs should not exceed 5..8
mA. This applies to the LEDs, the encoders ,3,4,5 and the freely programmable
potentiometers 1 and .
4 LEDs each are connected in parallel and have one series resistor. Thus the series
resistor is decisive for the total current, since the LED voltage is always the same, no
matter how many LED's are connected in parallel. The total current is divided into 4 partial
currents of the individual LEDs.
Here some information .
3

LED red V1,6 V... ,1 Volt
LED vellow/green 1,9V.. , Volt
LED blue/white ,9V..4V
The Formular.
UB = operating voltage 3,3 Volt
U_led= voltage of the LED
I_led= current of the LED
R_vor= value of the resistor in Ohm
R_vor=(UB-U_led)/I_led.
Sample calculation for 4 LED's red .
U_LED=1,6 Volt
I_LED =5 mA
R_vor =?
UB=3,3 V
R_vor=(3,3V-1,6V)/0,005A = 340 Ohm
4

All ri ht, let's et started. Is your solderin iron hot?
The following procedure.
First come the resistors / coil, then the capacitors, then the IC sockets, then the LEDs,
then the potentiometers and encoders, switches, connectors and the mic and finally the
LCD display.
First, the coil is soldered in
Coil/Spule Farbcode/colorcode Value/Position
brown, black, black, silver
'' can be the bigger or
smaller one in the kit
L , 10 uH
1xL
5

The Resistors
Resistor/Widerstand Farbcode/colorcode Value/Position
Red,red,black,black brown R4,5,6,7,8,9 = 0 Ohm
6 x 0 Ohm
6

Resistor/Widerstand Farbcode/colorcode Value/Position
Brown,black,black,red,brown R 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9,30,31,3
10x10K
Resistorarray/Widerstands-
array
Farbcode/colorcode/code Value/Position
A103
Attention, the resistor-array
is polarized, the white point
is pin 1 and marked on the
part . On the PCB it is
marked with a rectangle.
R1, ,3=10K
3x10K resistor array
7

The Capacitors
Capacitor Farbcode/colorcode Value/Position
marked/markiert ( 104 ) C3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10,11,1 ,13,
14,15,16,17,18, 1, , 3, 4,
5, 6
x100nF
Capacitor Farbcode/colorcode Value/Position
marked/markiert ( 103 ) C19, 0
x10nF
8

Capacitor /Elko Farbcode/colorcode/code Value/Position
100 uF
Attention , this part is
polarized, short pin is minus
C = 100uF
1x100uF Elko
Capacitor/Elko Farbcode/colorcode/code Value/Position
10 uF
Attention , this part is
polarized, short pin is minus
C1 = 10uF
1x10uF
9

Now we come to the IC sockets
We need :
3x14 pin = for IC 7,8,9 =74HC14
4x16 pin = for IC 3=74HC165, IC4=74HC165, IC5=74HC165, IC6=74HC595
1x 0 pin = for IC 1=73HC573
Attention, the IC sockets are marked. Please solder the sockets right around into the
board. Later it is easier to put the IC's correctly into the sockets.
TIP:
solder the IC sockets first on two legs.
Be sure that the socket is flat on the PCB. If not , press the socket with the finger against
the PCB and solder both pins again.
Attention also to the mark. Solder it into the right direction.
10

The buttons in the De-Generator
The buttons have a flattened side. This is also marked on the board.
They must be installed in such a way that the markings point to the left !
1:) x white with red LED
:) 1x red without LED
3:) 8x black without LED
Make sure that the buttons are soldered as straight as possible into the board.
It's a little tricky. Take your time .
First solder the buttons for the control panel.
Tip: always solder a pin first, then align the button, solder and align the next button to a
pin, etc.
If all buttons are soldered to one pin each, the entire buttons can now be aligned in their
positions.
RECORD and ARP/SEQ are the buttons with the LEDs. Pay attention to polarity !
You can also see two additional LEDs. LED_RES next to keys S16 and S 17.
Since the buttons with the LED's are sometimes difficult to get, you can solder in buttons
without LEDs and use two separate LEDs. The series resistors R8 and R9
have 0 Ohm and can be used for the LEDs in the buttons as well as for the separate
LEDs.
11

Now the five buttons of the pages are soldered in
The encoders
The De-Generator uses longlive encoders with 100,000 switching cycles.
1x PEC11L4120F-S0020
This is the Page Encoder and has an additional button. This encoder has five connections
4x PEC11L-4120F-N0020
these encoders are without pushbutton and are installed in the positions ENC ,3,4,5. This
encoder has 3 connections
***depending on the availability of the encoders, 5 xPEC11L41 0FS00 0 encoders with
switch can also be supplied with the kit. Both encoders are identical in construction, but
differ by a button. The buttons then have no function for ENC .3.4.5.
PEC11L4120FS0020 five pin with switch PEC11L-4120F-N0020 without switch
1

The S6 encoder with switch is the PAGE encoder and is soldered into position 'Pages'.
The encoders without pushbuttons are soldered in positions ...4
The freely pro rammable potentiometers
Pot 1, Farbcode/colorcode/code Value/Position
DC103B
Pot1,Pot
x10Kohm lin
13

The volume pot
volume pot Farbcode/colorcode/code Value/Position
103A
Volume
1x10Kohm log /stereo
The LEDs
LED red LFO D1, ,3,4
and for the encoder
D9,11,1 ,13,14,15,16,17,18,
D19, 0, 1, , 3, 4, 5
Farbcode/colorcode/code Value/Position
14

Attention , this part is
polarized.
Short leg is (-) minus
D1,D ,D3,D4
D9,11,1 ,13,14,15,16,17,18,
19, 0, 1, , 3, 4, 5
0 x LED red
Four red LEDs are soldered to positions D1,D ,D3,D4
Attention - pay attention to the polarity (minus ) is at the top !
Attention, we use red LEDs for the De-Generator with a Plexiglas case, because these are
not so bright. R18,19, 0, 1 are then changed from 330 Ohm to 0 Ohm.
The LEDs on the encoders can also be omitted if desired. It is a ' CAN BE'
For the metal case ultrabright blue LEDs are used, the series resistors are changed to 390
Ohm.
Now we solder the 16 red LEDs into the positions
D9,11,1 ,13,14,15,16,17,18,19, 0, 1, , 3, 4, 5
Attention - pay attention to the polarity (minus) is at the top !
15

LED-Resistor/Widerstand Farbcode/colorcode Value/Position
Pre-resistors LED red.
R18,19, 0, 1
for red LEDs we use 0
Ohm (plex case)
for blue LEDs we use 390
ohm
depends of the LED type .
330 Ohm works in most
cases.
4x 0...390 Ohm
R18,19, 0, 1
LED orange for the free pots Farbcode/colorcode/code Value/Position
Attention , this part is
polarized.
Short leg is (-) minus
D7, 9,30,31,8, 6, 7, 8
8x LED orange
for the two pots
Pot 1,Pot
Now solder the orange LEDs to the positions D7, 9,30,31,8, 6, 7, 8
Attention - pay attention to the polarity (minus ) is at the top !
16

LED-Resistor/Widerstand Farbcode/colorcode Value/Position
Pre-resistors LED orange.
R 15,16
for orange LEDs we use
0 Ohm
Depends of the LED type .
330 Ohm works in the most
cases.
x 0...390 Ohm
R 15,16
The connectors
connector male Farbcode/colorcode/code Value/Position
Connector male K3,K4= x10 pin
K14= x3pin
Mic-Con= 1x pin
Attention the plugs K3,4,14 and MIC-con go down
The mic connector is pushed through the holes from the back and soldered from above.
Then bend the two pins in such a way that they lie horizontally to the board.
17

K14, the volume connector connects the volume control to the audio signal
It is also pushed through the holes from the back and soldered from above.
K3,K4 is the connection to the CPU board and should look like this
The Micro
Mic Farbcode/colorcode/code Value/Position
Attention , this part is
polarized.
1xMicro
The MIC should be soldered on in such a way that it is approx. 1mm above the board.
18

So, all soldered together? Soon it will be done. Before we solder in the display we do a
quality control.
The board should now look like this from below
Tip: So, for example, I don't feel like troubleshooting for hours, so I clean up
I'll take a look at all the solder joints with a magnifying glass. There are still one or two bad
solder joints. Nothing is harder to find than a bug you build yourself !!!
So better take a look twice.
19

The LCD Display
Screws and nuts Farbcode/colorcode/code Value/Position
x M ,5 screw
4x M ,5 nuts
x plastik washer
Both screws are inserted into the rear holes and secured with the nuts. A plastic washer is
placed on each nut.
The plastic washer prevents the metal nut from being damaged.
short-circuits on the board.
The distance between the LCD and the board is .5 mm and is given by the plastic
connector of the connector on the LCD.
The nut is mm thick, the washer 0.5 mm - so the display should now rest horizontally on
the PCB.
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