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springs into three pairs, aligning the guide tabs in each pair.
2. Slide the first pair of springs on to the lift stop with the guide tab first. That is, with the guide tab retaining groove
between each spring pair so that the springs are spaced equally around the valve.
3. Position the springs and lift stop over the seat and disc. Apply a small amount of Loctite AC on the threads of the
hex socket capscrew. Secure the valve assembly together with the screw. Wipe any excess Loctite from the valve.
With a seal-locking type screw, Loctite need not be used.
4. When returning the discharge valves to the pump, check that each disc is free to move properly.
5. After installing the valves in the pump, check that the valve assemblies cannot be turned, indicating that they are
tightly in position.
MECHANICAL SHAFT SEAL
The shaft seal has a long, trouble-free life under normal conditions. However, it may be worn or scratched on the
sealing faces by contaminated sealing and lubricating oil, or possibly by a lack of oil.
To inspect the seal, remove the belts from the pump sheave. Remove the pump sheave and drive key from the shaft.
Remove shaft seal drain plug (underneath shaft seal housing, second from shaft extension) and drain the oil. Then,
disconnect the tubing.
Remove the capscrews holding the shaft seal housing to the end of the open head and draw off the housing. This will
leave the inner race of the roller bearing and part of the shaft seal on the shaft. The floating seat and sealing ring (see
cross section view) should stay inside the housing when the housing is removed. Draw the rotating parts of the seal off
the shaft; spring holder and snap ring may be left on if the open head is not being removed. Inspect the running face
of sealing washer for dirt, scratches or grooves which might account for leaks through the seal. Look at the inside of
bellows to see that it is not cracked or grooved as it prevents leakage along the shaft. Look inside the shaft seal housing
at the face of floating seat to see that it is not grooved. To check sealing ring, it is necessary to remove outboard bearing
cap and push the ring out of the hole. If this is done, check the roller bearing, roller assembly and the running face of
the races. In reassembling, if floating seat and sealing ring are out, be sure and put the sealing ring on the floating seal
and then coat the sealing ring with the oil. Push it into its hole in the shaft seal housing slowly and carefully so that the
ring will not roll. A crease across the sealing ring, or a dent or scratch in the running face makes a direct leak through the
seal. Even new seals may leak if installed carelessly. Slide the moving seal parts back on the shaft, in order removed,
up to the spring holder and snap ring. Then clean the face of the flanges on the open head and then clean the shaft
housing making it free of old sealing compound. Apply a thin coat of new sealing compound and install the housing. Re-
install the roller bearing outer race, or roller assembly if removed, and pack with grease. Put the outboard bearing cap
on and tighten. Reconnect the tubing, put the key back in the shaft, mount the pump sheave and put the belts back on.
NOTE: When replacing the shaft seal, the bearing and locknut should be replaced.
STALLING
Difficult pump starting may result from excessively low pump temperatures which can be caused by leaving the pump
cooling water flow on when the pump is stopped, or by exposing the pump to low ambient temperatures. If this occurs,
warm the pump to the minimum pump starting temperature of 50° F.
If the pump stalls at any time, it may be due to a loose belt, lack of lubrication, solenoid valve not opening, badly
contaminated oil, or foreign matter in the pump. If the pump can be turned over by hand, check belt tension as noted
under the OPERATION section. If stalling is due to lack of lubrication, the oil line has become plugged suddenly after
operating for some time. Check the opening of the solenoid valves as previously described. If conditions do not
improve, remove the oil seal lines and clean them, as they are probably plugged. If a check of the oils shows that it is not
badly contaminated, there could be foreign matter in the pump. The oil can be changed, as covered under Changing the
Oil, but if it is contaminated enough to stall the pump, the inside of the pump must be cleaned. Cleaning or inspecting
the inside of the pump is a major operation, and is covered in the OVERHAUL section. The closed head end is easily
checked by closing off the oil, disconnecting the tubing to that end, removing the capscrews and drawing off the head
which permits drawing out the piston and slide pin. See OVERHAUL for disassembly of the open head end.