Vac-U-Boat Vac-U-Soling Lower Hull Kit User manual

Vac-U-Soling™
An AMYA Soling One Meter Class Lower Hull Kit
Manufactured by Vac-U-Boat 1259 Humphries Rd. Conyers, GA 30012 [e-mail]
The Vac-U-Soling™ Lower Hull Kit Features: Tough high-impact polystyrene hull with
a tongue-in-groove perimeter deck joint, full deck, partial hull and transom reinforcing liners
that can be trimmed/adjusted for weight savings, removable one-piece 7 pound keel with
options to special-order lighter or heavier weights, completed rudder with safety clip, Du-Bro
rudder arm, hex wrench, stainless pushrod and easy-connector for your servo, self-aligning
rudder mount, integral transom on the hull, no wood components, precut fiberglass deck cleat
backers, pre-drilled self-centering keel mount/fiberglass servo board/crossmember, 8 servo
screws with hex wrench, stainless steel keel hardware, stainless steel deck hardware, plastic
mast step, magnetically attached hatch cover, removable carbon fiber king post, industrial-
ceramic deck fairleads.
The crossmember accommodates sail servos from standard footprint high-torque digital
models all the way up to the HS-815BB large servo. Rudder servo is mounted near the rudder
or can be mounted on the crossmember. There are no bulkheads giving you better access to the
hull's interior.
This kit does not include paint, sails, mast, booms, sail rigging or electronics. We are
considering a basic sail mast-rigging kit for release in the future.
To build this you will need: A 50-pack of wooden clothespins (83 if you want to laminate
the hull and deck on the same day), talc-cornstarch-microspheres (your favorite epoxy filler), 2
pumps of West Systems 105 epoxy with 206 hardener or similar product (ask if you don’t have
any), 30-minute set (or longer) epoxy glue (Devcon 2-Ton at Ace Hardware), one caulking
tube of Loctite PL S40 polyurethane window, door & siding sealant and paper towels.
Tools you may need include a box cutter, 1/16” drill, 5/64” drill, 7/64” drill, a step-
drill set (allow you to drill large holes in plastic without splitting), wrenches,
screwdrivers, drill, an old bath towel, plastic gloves, mixing cup & sticks, alcohol (for
cleaning up epoxy), mineral spirits (for cleaning up polyurethane sealant) and you will
need to borrow four 15oz. cans of vegetables from the pantry.
© 2020 Philip Pace dba Vac-U-Boat™ 1

Now for the Warnings!
Read all of the instructions! Review and understand each step, and the one after, as you build
your boat. Don’t rush. Good work takes time.
This is not a toy! I know. It LOOKS like a toy, but it isn’t. Toys are generally safe for small
children. This boat is not safe for small children. Assembling it requires the use of sharp tools
that can cut skin, strong adhesives than can bond flesh and injure eyes, spray paints that can be
flammable and toxic, as well as batteries that can short causing severe burns or fires. Read all of
the instructions and warnings on all of the tools and chemicals you plan to use. Use protective
eyewear when recommended. USE SAFETY GLASSES! If you think you don’t have the
skills, or are uncomfortable with tools and chemicals, or just changed your mind, then pack
up this kit and return it immediately for a full refund including economical standard return
shipping. If you need some help, find a local boat club to join, check with the hobby shop
where you purchased your radio gear, or contact local RC sailing clubs and organizations
for assistance. Keep your work area away from children & pets. Even if you have no children,
when not working on the kit, keep all sharp objects and all chemicals locked away in a safe area.
You never know who will come to visit and how well they will supervise the young ones with
them.
This is STILL not a toy! Never run the boat if swimmers are in the water. Don’t chase wildlife.
Be careful with rechargeable batteries. They have the ability to dump large amounts of current in
a very brief period of time if shorted, causing burns or fires. Never store rechargable batteries
inside your boat, connected or not. Keep your batteries in a safe place, out of the reach of
children. You are responsible for the safe use of this product. You are responsible for choosing
wisely, those who you entrust the use of the boat and radio, even for a few minutes at a lake.
Never swim after a disabled model boat!
Read warnings on all products used in the construction of this kit. Keep your work area clean
and tidy. Whenever using hobby knives, box cutters, or razors, cut AWAY from your body. Keep
in mind where the knife will go if it breaks or suddenly cuts through the plastic. Plastic can bind
the blade of a knife and suddenly release it. If it is binding, you may be doing it wrong.
Additional force is not the answer. Angle the blade so the plastic can separate without binding.
Read the section on cutting plastic safely.
WARNING
CHOKING HAZARD - Small parts. Not for children under 3 years.
WARNING - To avoid danger of suffocation, keep plastic bags away from babies and children. Do not use in
cribs, beds, carriages or play pens.
WARNING: Brass parts in this kit contain lead, a chemical known to the State of California to cause cancer
and birth defects and other reproductive harm.
WARNING: THIS IS NOT A TOY! Once completed, this model should only to be used with the Safety
Rules and guidelines of the American Model Yachting Association.
https://theamya.org/ 2

KIT CONTENTS
High-Impact Polystyrene Deck,
Deck Reinforcing Liner, Pre-Cut
Fiberglass Deck Cleat Backers.
Hull with integral Transom, Hull
Reinforcing Liner.
Hatch Cover, Transom Reinforcement,
Battery Tray, Rudder Servo Mount,
Upper King Post Mount.
Hull Liner Anchor Inserts, Hull Liner
Crossmember Mount Inserts, 8 Rare
Earth Magnets, Hull Clamp Strips.
Keel, Keel Shoe, 2 Keel Posts, Switch,
Crossmember, 6 Crossmember Screws, 8
Servo Screws with Wrench, 2 Keel
Stainless Nuts & Washers.
Rudder, Rudder Mount, Rudder Arm,
Rudder Arm Set Screw & Hex Wrench,
Safety Clip, Stainless Steel Pushrod & EZ-
Connector.
2 Ceramic Deck Fairleads with O-Rings, 10
Stainless Steel Deck Eye Screws with
Stainless Steel Flanged Finish Washers,
Mast Step with Stainless Steel Screws, 1-
1/4inch Rubber Drill Depth Gauge, 1-inch
Bristle Epoxy Brush, Double-Sided 100
Grit Sandpaper. 3

CLEAN HANDS
Using “plastic friendly” spray paints or acrylics, you can paint the boat without sanding first. A clean oil-free
surface is important. Wash your hands with soap & water before handling the plastic, after meals, etc… Contaminants or
oily fingerprints can be removed with Windex, Alcohol, or Low Odor Mineral Spirits without affecting the plastic’s
ability to chemically bond with paints like Krylon Fusion or Rustoleum 2X Ultra Cover. Although they have a
reputation of being runny, with some guidance and patience you can get good results.
Conventional paint methods involving scuffing, priming, and painting for this boat are available and have been
discussed by several clubs. Avoid lacquers because they will melt styrene plastic. Wet-on-wet spraying of some
enamels can be harmful as well. 4
Styrene can be cut by scoring and breaking, or with scissors. The first score should be very light while concentrating on
accuracy. The second and third score is made with more pressure and will follow the first. Repeat scoring the line until
the part separates or after 2 or 3 scores, bend the plastic to break it.
INSTRUCTIONS
Follow the photos and captions to assemble your boat. Read through the instructions before building. Assemble the
necessary tools and adhesives on a clean workbench or table. Keep paper towels handy to catch spills. Don’t forget the
safety glasses!
Read ahead for each step. With hobby knives or box cutters, always cut in a direction away from nearby body parts.
Practice harder steps without glue to be comfortable with what is needed to ensure a good fit.
When drilling styrene, drill at the slowest speed. The material is soft so little pressure is needed to drill into it. All
surfaces that will be glued with epoxy or CA-super glue need to be sanded/scuffed with 100 grit sandpaper to help the sur-
faces have a strong bond.
Sanding/trimming for a nicer looking model. These instructions use the plastic parts just as they were supplied in the
kit. Some sanding/trimming of parts can improve the looks of the finished hull. In particular, the Deck Flange is as-cut from
the mold. It has a slight flare at the edge of the side flange. Using a sanding block with 80 or 100 grit sandpaper, you can
sand away about 1/6-inch of material to remove that flange. It will be easier to hold and sand after it is laminated to the
Deck Reinforcing Liner but should be sanded before you attach the Hull to the Deck.
Light weight build. There is a separate set of recommendations for trimming away parts of the kit to save weight in
order to stay close to the 10-pound minimum weight. Take a look and discuss with your club as to their recommendations.
CUTTING STYRENE
Bending down at the score will break the plastic along the scored line. Then, bend up to separate it cleanly. Don’t
tear or it will leave an uneven edge. You can cut with scissors if you prefer. Either way, any rough edges can be
smoothed out with the included 100 grit sand paper.
Be careful when drilling holes in sheets of plastic. Practice with the cockpit opening scrap. For tiny holes like the
5/64-inch (2mm) holes for the deck screw eyes, a standard drill bit is fine. For larger holes, a step drill will allow you to
drill or enlarge holes without the bit “digging” into the plastic causing the plastic to split.

5
LAMINATING THE DECK: You will need the Deck, Deck Reinforcement, 50 clothes pins, 1-inch epoxy brush, 1 level
tablespoon of powdered filler (talc), 1 pump of West Systems 105 epoxy with 206 slow hardener, mixing cup, dowel or
craft stick to mix, 100grt double-sided sandpaper, an old bath towel, the 10-inch paint stirring stick. The towel protects the
deck’s surface while you are sanding the underside. After trimming and sanding, we will practice first. No Glue.
Lightly score around the inside of the cockpit opening. Repeat until the center pushes out. Set it aside for testing paint or
practice drilling holes. Lay out a towel & turn over the deck.
Sand the UNDERSIDE of the Deck thoroughly. Use a crisscross or circular pattern to roughen the surface for the epoxy to
bond well. Sand the TOP of the Deck Reinforcing Liner. Check the edge trim of the Deck Liner. Use the sandpaper to
straighten any uneven spots like at my thumb.
Remove the towel. Set the Deck upside-down onto the work surface. Set the Deck Reinforcing Liner into the Deck using the
cockpit opening to align the Liner to the Deck. You will notice an even spacing around the perimeter. This will be the
groove of the tongue-in-groove seam for the hull.
Take a clothespin and clamp the rib of the Deck Liner to the Deck near the Transom. Adjust it until the corner of the deck
falls into the notch of the clothespin. The flange of the Deck Liner is within the other notch in the clothespin.

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Clamp 3 more clothespins keeping the Deck Reinforcing Liner centered to the deck. Clamp two more at the end of the stern.
There are no ribs there but still keep the deck corner into the notch of the clothespin.
Attach 4 clothespins at the bow clamped to the 2nd & 3rd rib, then put one on the end clamped flat to the tip of both the
Deck and the Deck Liner. The end pairs of clothes pins (yellow arrows) will be touching the deck evenly to ensure that there
is no twist in the deck before the epoxy cures. Practice is over. Lay out the rest of your materials to laminate the Deck.
Mix 1-Pump of West Systems Epoxy and stir in 1 level tablespoon of filler. Brush the filled epoxy on to the Deck Liner.
Hold the brush almost flat against the surface and very lightly brush the surface. Flat strokes will distribute the epoxy on the
surface without it getting in to the grooves. If it gets into the grooves, scoop it out with the brush.
Holding it vertically will help prevent epoxy from dripping off of the edges. You want it to look thin but fully covered
with no dry areas. Do not put epoxy on the edges, just the top. Once you are done, any extra epoxy can be brushed onto
the areas where the deck cleats, mast-step and their fiberglass backing strips will be located to further-reinforce them.
The brush will flick droplets of epoxy around as you brush past the edges of the Hull Liner. Keep good parts away
from the work area to prevent epoxy drying on them. Once you are done, wipe up any drops of epoxy on the work
surface and clean the residue with alcohol while it is still liquid.

7
Center the tip of the Deck Liner to the tip of the Deck. Clamp 4 clothespins to the 2nd & 3rd ribs as shown. Check that the
cockpit opening is still centered. Starting at the stern end, alternating left then right, attach clothespins to every other rib
working toward the cockpit.
Carefully set the Deck Liner epoxy-side down into the Deck. Press the four corners of the cockpit opening to align it. Clamp
4 clothespins to the stern-end sides of the deck at these two ribs.
At the bow-end of the deck, put clothes pins on the two ribs shown next to each other. Then continue every other rib to the
bow as shown. Put a single clothes pin at the tip of the bow. Set your paint stirring stick into the cockpit with the left end
(bow end) covering the five locator bumps next to the cockpit opening as shown.
Set your two 15 ounce cans of vegetables on the left (bow) end of the stick as shown. At the stern, place two clothes pins
on the end of the deck one-finger width from the sides. These clothes pins will touch the table and hold the stern-end of
the deck assembly square to the build table. Clean the brush with alcohol before the epoxy sets!

8
In the Hull Liner you will need to glue inserts into the two shelves that support the Crossmember and the two marked Anchor
Points if you require them. The Crossmember inserts only fit one way. This is the wrong insert as it does not fit well.
Use a pencil to mark the edges of the Hull Liner onto the hull. This will help you align it later and marks the area on the
Hull you will need to sand. The Crossmember looks like this. Bow is on the left. Note the 4 bumps on the Hull Liner. These
are possible anchor points if your rigging requires them. Mark the two you plan to use.
Inside the Hull at the center bottom where the Keel is installed you will see two locator points. The Hull Liner has two
corresponding points. Using 2 fingers, slide the Hull Liner along the Hull until you feel the bumps line up. The bow-end of
the Hull Liner is narrower than the stern and must be oriented to the bow of the Hull as shown.
Examine the two bow-end clothespins. If one is not touching the table, it could have a slight twist. Lightly grasp the Deck
bow and twist up at the side where the clothespin is touching the table to remove the twist. Set down & examine again to
confirm it is level. If neither are touching, a small weight added to the center of the deck will help them touch. Attach the
last clothespin to the bow. Take one last look to be sure that all clothespins are even and properly clamped to the deck edge,
that the groove width is even all around the deck and that no epoxy dripped onto the edges of the deck or to the work
surface. Slide it back out of the way to cure overnight and prepare to work on the hull. You will need the Hull, Hull
Reinforcing Liner, Crossmember Mount Inserts, Anchor Point Inserts if you need anchor points, 30-minute epoxy & filler,
2ea 1-inch x 16-inch plastic clamping strips, your towel and around 32 more clothespins.

9
Lay out the shelf inserts and anchor point inserts near where they go to avoid mistakes. Pour two 1-1/4-inch circles of 30
minute epoxy and mix. A steel shaft works well for this. A 1/8” diameter rod was used for these photos.
This is the correct Crossmember shelf insert for this side. It fits flush and evenly into the shelf. The anchor points inserts fit
any anchor point. Sand the insides of the two shelves and two inserts you marked and sand the corresponding sides of the
inserts that will go into the recesses.
Fold-in an equal volume of filler powder & mix well. Scoop up some and distribute around the inside of the chosen anchor
point. The insert is form-fit so little epoxy is needed.
Press the insert into the recess. Wipe away any excess epoxy. Repeat for the other anchor point and the two Crossmember
shelf inserts.

10
Check the inserts to make sure they are flush with the contour of the Hull Liner and won’t get in the way when you bond the
Hull Liner to the Hull. While you wait for the epoxy to cure, sand the hull. Use the folded towel to protect the outside of the
hull from scratches and to support the hull as you firmly sand in the marked outline of the Hull Liner’s location inside the
Hull. Be careful to not sand off the two locator bumps at the keel. You will need them later. On the rounded part of the
Keel Reinforcement, cut off about 1/4-inch with scissors to remove the flared edge.
Set the Transom Reinforcement into the Transom end of the Hull and align to the sides of the hull. Mark along the Transom
top and Hull Sides for trimming. Be careful not to move or shift the reinforcement while marking.
Carefully trim off the marked top of the Transom Reinforcement by scoring with a knife or use scissors. If scoring, lightly
score once then repeat until you can break off the scrap. Set the Transom Reinforcement back into the transom firmly seated
in place and mark the edges in the Hull for sanding.
Sand inside the Hull at the transom back and sides. Carefully support the back of the transom while sanding as it is very
thin. Sand the outside of the Transom Reinforcement. If the reinforcement epoxy is cured, sand the Hull Liner as shown.
The folded towel will allow you to support the shape while sanding.

11
Support the edges in order to sand the sides evenly. In the Hull, mark the lines for the Hull Liner with 4 clothespins. On the
outside of the Hull, center the Clamping Strip between those markers and tape in place. Remove the clothespins.
These strips will prevent the clothes pins from dimpling the sides of the Hull. Practice setting the Hull Reinforcing Liner
into the hull without touching the sides to prevent epoxy from rubbing off onto the hull. Repeat centering on the two locator
bumps and confirm the location with the end-marks you drew on the hull. The Hull should be sitting directly on the work
table. To keep it from falling over, steady the sides with a folded towel or other object that won’t get in the way of clamping.
Mix 1-Pump of West Systems Epoxy and add 1 level tablespoon of filler. Brush onto the Hull Liner like you did the Deck
Liner. When you are done, a little extra around the crossmember inserts will help strengthen this area. Don’t use all of the
epoxy. Save some for the Transom Reinforcement.
While holding the side together a little, set the Hull Liner into the hull and align it using the two locator bumps and the
marked end lines. When you are confident it is in the proper place, set two 15 ounce cans of vegetables into the Hull Liner
as shown.

12
The cans will hold down the Hull Liner. You start clamping the top at the center. Pinch the sides together with your left
hand while you clamp with your right. Center the clothespin on the rib.
Notice how the clothespin is clamping the end of the rib and the top edge of the Hull Liner. The Spring is not touching the
plastic. Continue pinching and clamping every other rib until both sides are done.
You will notice that in between the clothespins there may be gaps between the Hull and the Hull Liner. Clamp these gaps
with the end of another clothespin, not clamping the rib this time. Look for any epoxy oozing out of the top and clean it
while it is still uncured. Apply the filled epoxy to the Transom Reinforcement.
Don’t forget the sides. Insert the Transom Reinforcement into the Transom, pressing it into place while supporting the
outside of the Transom. Clamp one clothespin fully onto the Transom center. Check the alignment.

13
Important: Check for epoxy oozing out of the Transom Reinforcement. Unclip any clothespins necessary and wipe up the
epoxy & clean or replace the wet clothespins or it will glue your clothespins to the Transom. Check closely for any epoxy
drips and clean the work surface. Let cure overnight. The next day, examine the top edge of the Hull for uneven areas.
Smooth any high spots. Use the sandpaper or lightly scrape with a knife. The sealant used in attaching the deck will bridge
any low spots so it does not have to be perfect. Note the Transom has a curved top to match the crown of the deck.
The top of the Hull will go into the deck groove a little easier if you knock off the sharp edges by lightly scraping only once
or twice with a knife at an angle. Blow or sweep out any bits. Lay out a towel. This step attaches backers to the Deck and
Transom, the King Post Upper Mount and Magnets to the Deck and Cockpit Cover. Note that one of the short Backers is
white plastic. This is a spacer used in the Transom so the threads of that cleat will engage the fiberglass backer properly.
The longer fiberglass backers mount inside the raised locator bumps as shown.
After the Mast Step Backer is glued in place, the Upper King Post Mount is glued over it under the deck in this location.
Set the mount in place and mark its outline on the underside of the Deck. Now sand this area. OK to sand the bumps.
MAST STEP
BACKER

14
Sand the underside of the King Post Upper Mount. Sand inside the Transom raised rectangle where the Transom Backer will
be glued. (Notice the bits of clothespin I accidentally glued to the transom?) Sand one side of the fiberglass backers. Sand
both sides of the white plastic backer and the backer for the Mast Step. The two shorter Backers are for the Transom.
Hazard: Rare earth magnets are plated with Tin, Chromium, Cadmium or other harmful metals. Avoid dust and debris from
scuffing them. Sand them outside. Take the row of magnets and sand one end to roughen the surface. Take a magnet from
the other end and snap it over the sanded magnet. Repeat until one side of each magnet is scuffed. Sand the underside of
each corner shelf of the Cockpit Opening.
Sand the back of the ledge as well. Sand the underside of the Cockpit Cover in the same area. Mix two 1-inch circles of
epoxy and add the same volume of filler. Put a 1/4-inch bend on the end of a paperclip to distribute the filled epoxy.
Put just a small spot of filled epoxy into the underside of the corner of the Cockpit Opening. You will add more later.
Place a magnet scuffed-side-down into the epoxy and center it in the corner touching the inner edge of the sanded area.
Take a second magnet and while holding a finger on the glued magnet, place the 2nd magnet under the glued one. It will
snap into place and hold the glued magnet in place until the epoxy cures. Check and adjust to center. Repeat for the four
corners. Wash your hands of any magnet residue.

15
Epoxy the marked locations for the Backers and place them sanded-side-down. Bow Backer and Side Backer shown.
Attach the Mast Step Backer then apply filled epoxy to the King Post Upper Mount and set into place.
Check that it is centered. The mount’s center recess should align with the center Mast Step locator dimple, indicated by the
drill bit used as a pointer so you can adjust the mount to center. In the Transom, first glue in the white plastic spacer into the
center recess and press into place.
Add filled epoxy to the white plastic spacer. Press the fiberglass Backer into the spacer. Slide the Backer 3/8-inch down
from the top of the transom. This is to allow room for the Transom to fit into the Deck groove easier.

16
Confirm the 3/8-inch space and clamp with a clothespin. Put some filled epoxy over and around the 4 Cockpit Magnets to
better hold them in place. If your epoxy is beginning to harden, mix a small fresh batch to do this. Set aside to cure.
Build a Stand for the Keel. Get or make a box at least 6 inches high, 5 inches wide and 12 inches long. Lay your Keel on it
to mark where the leading edge of the Keel intersects the top. Cut a 1/2-inch slot in the top to that point. In this box it was 10
inches. The length depends on the height of the box.
Cut a 2-inch wide slot in the back stopping 1-inch above the floor of the box. Reinforce the end of the slot with tape and
cardboard. Set the Keel into the box. It should sit roughly level. Adjust the end of the slot if needed.
This step installs all of the bits inside the hull. You will need the Rudder, Rudder Mount, Rudder Servo Mount, Battery
Tray, Keel Mount Shoe, 2 Keel Posts, 2 Washers, 2 Nuts, Crossmember, 6 Crossmember Screws. Tools include a 5/64
inch (2mm) drill bit, a 7/64 inch drill bit, step drill set, a 1/4 inch nut driver (or a hex drive handle with the hex bit
removed), a 7/16 inch combo wrench, a socket wrench with 7/16” socket and short extension, a tube of Locktite PL
Window, Door & Siding Polyurethane Sealant and the little piece of black rubber hose Depth Gauge.

17
These are the Hull drill locator dimples. You used them earlier to center the Hull Liner into the Hull from the inside.
Practice drilling through a scrap of this plastic with a step drill. Use a slow speed setting. Be patient. Use little pressure.
Note the drill diameter markings on the step drill. Locate the 1/4-inch mark for the Keel holes.
Use a Sharpie marker to plainly mark the 1/4-inch part of the drill. Drill the two dimples to 1/4-inch diameter. Turn the Hull
over and set the Keel Mount Shoe into the hull with the partial-hole (arrow) on the bow end.
Use a pencil to mark a line around the Shoe. Sand the area where the Keel Mount Shoe will contact the Hull and sand the
bottom of the Shoe. Flip over the Hull and note the Rudder Mount Drill Locator Dimple near the Transom.
Clean off old Sharpie markings with alcohol. Locate the 3/16-inch point on the drill and mark that section plainly with the
Sharpie marker. Drill the Rudder hole to a 3/16-inch diameter. By hand, you can use the step drill to deburr the hole on the
inside.

Set the Crossmember onto the Keel Bolts, install the two 1/4-inch stainless steel keel bolt washers and screw on the two 1/4-
inch Keel Nuts. Snug with wrench. Do not tighten.
Pull the end of the Crossmember tight against the Crossmember Shelf and mark the three holes at each end of the
Crossmember. Remove the Crossmember. These holes will be drilled with a 7/64-inch drill. Insert the drill bit into your drill
and slip the rubber hose depth gauge over it.
Place a screw into one of the Crossmember mounting holes. Holding the screw, adjust the hose until the exposed drill bit
is the same length as the exposed end of the screw. Loosen the drill chuck and slide the drill in until the hose touches the
chuck then tighten it. Check the exposed drill bit again to be sure.
Set the Hull onto the Keel. Place the Keel Mount Tubes over the Keel Bolts with the end that is grooved on the bottom
(arrow). Set the Keel Mount Shoe over the two tubes with the partial-hole pointed toward the Bow. This would be a good
time for Advanced Builders to check the alignment of the Keel to the Rudder Shaft. Clamp the ends of two paint stirring
sticks or rulers to the sides of the Keel from the Bow end extending toward the Rudder. Set the Rudder Mount into its hole
and install the rudder. Check that the rudder shaft is roughly centered between the sticks/rulers. If not, you can adjust/oval
the stern-most hole to make it align better. Check again in the last step before the last time you tighten the Crossmember
Nuts before applying sealant to the Keel Mount Shoe.
18

19
Use a razor to cut only the very end of the tip of the Polyurethane Sealant tube. Insert a metal rod to pierce the inner foil
seal several times. Practice distributing a layer of sealant on a scrap of cardboard. When you want to stop, release the
pressure on the caulking gun or the material will continue to flow. Pump caulk into the outline of the Keel Mount Shoe on
the hull. Use a bent wire to get it into areas you can’t reach with the caulking tube.
Important to get the sealant completely around the grooved part of the two acrylic tubes. This will form a seal between the
tubes and the hull so the Keel Mount will not leak. Remove the rubber band or tape supporting the Shoe.
I flipped over the hull for clarity. You can do this with the Keel in the Keel Box as long as there is room for the sticks and
clamp between the box top and the Hull. Paint stick or two rulers are clamped on the flat part of the Keel. The two sticks
should be approximately centered on the hole for the rudder shaft. If not, the Keel holes can be adjusted to align before
sealing the Keel Mount.
Holding the drill as straight as possible at a slower speed, drill into the marked points. The chuck of your drill will probably
be touching the side of the hull during this. Pull out the bit 2 or 3 times during drilling to clear debris. Stop just when the
rubber hose Depth Gauge touches the shelf. Repeat for 6 holes. Reinstall the Crossmember, Washers, Nuts and tighten the
Nuts moderately tight. (Using half the length of the wrench.) Install the six Crossmember mounting screws. Lift the Keel
Mount Shoe and support with tape or a rubber band as shown. Advanced: A good time for that final alignment check of the
keel to the rudder shaft.

20
Press the Shoe into the sealant. Wipe away any excess. If you are using Anchor Points in the Hull, they need to be drilled
and installed now. Otherwise, skip this step. Repeat the Drill Depth Gauge setting. This time with a 5/64 inch (2mm) drill
bit the length of the eyelet threads. Secure the hose with tape or it will slide off of the smaller drill.
Drill into the Anchor Bump from the side, direction of the pull, as to not pierce the Hull. Screw the Screw Eye into the
bump just as far as the threads. Using a straight edge, mark a light pencil line about 4 inches from the Rudder Mount hole
toward the Keel Mount.
Insert the Rudder Mount into the hole with the pointed end toward the Crossmember. Align the point to the middle of the
pencil line. Remove the Rudder Mount and sand the marked area. Also sand the corresponding bottom of the Rudder Mount.
Put a thin bead of Sealant on the bottom wings of the rudder mount. (Use LESS than I did in these photos.) Use a wire to
push the sealant fully around the end of the brass tube to ensure a good waterproof seal. Insert the Rudder Shaft up through
the hole to assist you in aligning the Rudder Mount to the hole. Align the Rudder Mount pointed end to the pencil mark and
push it into the hull. Confirm the short brass tube at the bottom of the mount entered the hole in the Hull. You may not feel
the mount drop into the hole until most of the excess sealant has squeezed out from between the mount and the hull.