Vallox TSK Multi 80 MC R Specification sheet

• 1.09.380E
• 20.06.07
© VALLOX
CODE 3468
INSTRUCTIONS FOR USE AND MAINTENANCE
Supply / extract ventilation
with heat recovery
for dwellings in blocks of flats
and terraced houses
© VALLOX • We reserve the right to make changes without prior notification.

© VALLOX • We reserve the right to make changes without prior notification.
VALLOX TSK
MAIN PARTS
2
EVERYDAY QUICK GUIDE
VALLOX TSK has been initially adjusted for
normal circumstances in your home. Ventilation
adjustment is needed mainly in the following
circumstances:
• Cooking:
If the ventilation unit is connected to a
cooker hood, boost ventilation during
cooking (the most common way of abating
cooking smokes in blocks of flats). Small
detached houses and terraced houses are
normally equipped with a separate cooker
hood.
• Empty dwelling:
To save energy, ventilation can be adjusted
to the minimum level.
• Sleeping:
Ventilation in a bedroom has to be suffi-
cient throughout the night. The level is cor-
rect when air does not smell fusty when
you enter the room in the morning.
• Washing and drying clothes:
Boost ventilation in washing and drying fa-
cilities during these activities.
• Taking a sauna bath:
Boost ventilation in bathing and washing
facilities in order to ensure that the rooms
get dry as quickly as possible. It is recom-
mended to have boosted ventilation on for
2 to 3 hours after taking a sauna bath.
VALLOX TSK
Safety switch and electric box
Extract air coarse filter G3
Heat recovery cell
Outdoor air fine filter F7
Outdoor air coarse filter G3
Extract air fan (105 or 180 W)
Post-heating radiator, electric (1.0 kW)
or water/liquid radiator ca 1.5 kW (VKL model)
Damper for summer / winter ventilation
Cell antifreeze sensor
Supply air fan (105 or 180 W)
Electrical quick-connect terminal for fans
The unit is available as a right (R) and left (L) hand model.
The figure shows the R model.
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
1 2 3 4 5
10 7 6 118 911

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VALLOX TSK
BASICS OF VENTILATION
3
THREE QUESTIONS ABOUT VENTILATION
Why is air replaced in dwellings?
Good ventilation promotes healthy living for both residents and the building. Air in a dwelling needs to
be replaced in order to remove humidity brought about by living as well as impurities
emanating from structures and human bodies. Impurities of indoor air include carbon dioxide,
formaldehyde, radon and other gases as well as dust.
Mechanical ventilation is needed in order to be able to adjust air circulation as needed by
the residents. In a tightly sealed house, air does not circulate sufficiently by natural means.
Even in a poorly sealed house air is only replaced because of differences between indoor
and outdoor air temperatures, or because of winds. This means that ventilation is dependent
on weather conditions and cannot be regulated.
It is especially important that humidity and carbon dioxide content of indoor air stay at a
healthy level. Recommended humidity content of good indoor air is approximately 45%.
Humidity content is lower in winter and higher in summer and autumn. Dust mites thrive in
indoor air if humidity exceeds 50%, and if humidity stays at over 60% for a long time in
winter, water will condense in the cold structures of the house and mould will start to form.
The recommended maximum carbon dioxide content in good indoor air is circa 1,000 ppm.
What are the characteristics of adequate ventilation?
• Indoor air stays fresh in all the rooms of the dwelling, also in bedrooms during night.
Without adequate ventilation, carbon dioxide content tends to rise high especially in
bedrooms.
• The bathroom and sauna get dry quickly.
• During the heating season, the windows and other outer wall structures remain dry.
• Humidity in indoor air is not condensed in the ventilation ducts.
• Air is fresh in the toilet as well.
How much air is replaced?
For air to be clean to breathe, it has to be replaced with outdoor air once in two hours. In a
new and a renovated house, air needs to be circulated continually, at least once an hour,
during the first year in order to remove harmful gases and structural humidity. In buildings
that are more than a year old and dry, ventilation can be regulated as needed. Ventilation
is boosted during for instance a sauna bath, clothes washing and cooking, and reduced
during very cold periods or when there is nobody at home.
Window ventilation
Dwelling-specific supply / extract air circulation by no means prevents you from opening
windows and the door to the balcony or airing through them. In window or door ventilation,
however, attention needs to be paid to the following factors:
1. During the heating season window ventilation consumes, uncontrollably, a considerable
amount of energy.
2. An open window lets in dusty and dirty air.
3. An open window also lets in noise pollution.
4. During summer, door / window ventilation may bring in air that is warmer than that in
the dwelling.
SEASONAL CALENDAR
Spring:
• Wash or replace the coarse filter and replace
the fine filter if needed.
• Clean the fan blades and the post-heating
unit if needed.
• Check that summer ventilation is in operation.
When this is the case, extract air does not heat air
coming from the outside.
NOTE!
For further details, see inner pages.
Autumn:
• Wash or replace the coarse filter and replace the
fine filter if needed.
• Check that the heat recovery cell is clean.
• Check that the condensing water outlet is not
clogged.
• Switch summer ventilation off.

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VALLOX TSK
VENTILATION SYSTEM
4
WARNING
If ventilation of the dwelling is closed,
it also prevents new, clean outdoor air
from coming in and dirty air from
going out.
Impurities emanating from human
bodies, structures and the soil, such as
carbon dioxide, humidity, smells,
formaldehyde, dust and radon, quickly
spoil indoor air and cause health
damage.
Too high a humidity may destroy the
building structures and cause mould
and fungus growth. Therefore, the
building regulations require ventilation
to be continually in operation and the
level of ventilation to be adjusted as
needed by the user.
!
As the name says, a dwelling-specific ventilation system (blocks of flats, terraced houses) is
meant for only one dwelling.
The system includes two sides. The extract air side takes dirty and humid air out, while the
supply air side brings a corresponding amount of outdoor air in.
Ventilation in the rooms is continual and can be regulated as needed. Outdoor air is mainly
brought to the bedrooms, sitting room, fireplace room, dining room and sauna. From these
rooms supply air can flow freely, for instance through door vents, to the bathroom, sauna,
toilet, walk-in wardrobe, kitchen and other rooms with air extraction vents. If also cold outside
air comes in to the sauna, only use it when needed as combustion air for a wood heated
sauna oven.
The resident may regulate the power of ventilation (air circulation) as needed.
Filtering
Outdoor air is filtered before taking it in to the dwelling. A coarse filter first removes the
biggest litter particles, thereby preventing the system from getting dirty. After that air passes
through a fine filter, which catches finer dust and even the smallest pollen particles.
Heating of outdoor air
During the heating season, heat included in extract air is used to heat air coming from the
outside. Heat travels in the heat recovery cell through panels, and extract air never mixes
with air coming inside. This may provide all the heating needed. The ventilation units may,
however, be equipped with a post-heating radiator, which can be used to warm air if more
heating is needed.
Warm
extract air
+22 °C
Fresh
outdoor air
-5 °C
Preheated fresh air
coming in
+13 °C
Cooled
extract air going out
+12 °C
HEAT RECOVERY UNIT
Winter and frosts
When temperature in winter falls below –10…–20 °C, the intake of outdoor air is restricted
by stopping the supply air fan. This prevents the water that condenses in the unit from extract
air from freezing.
For indoor air to stay healthy and beneficial also for the structures of the dwelling, ventilation
has to be in operation continuously. It is not advisable to stop ventilation even for longer
holidays because it makes indoor air stuffy. Also, during the heating season indoor air
humidity may condense in the ducts and structures and therefore cause humidity damage.

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VALLOX TSK
INSTRUCTIONS FOR USE
5
Initial adjustment
The ventilation system works properly when air flows in the rooms
have been measured and adjusted with the valves in accordance with
the planned values. After the initial adjustment, the position of the ventilation
valves must not be changed. If there is an outlet valve with a knob in the
ceiling of the sauna, it can be adjusted as needed. The initial adjustment
ensures that a sufficient amount of air is circulated and that extract air
flow is always greater than supply air flow, i.e. the dwelling is negatively
pressured compared to outdoor air. If the dwelling is positively pressured,
air in the dwelling penetrates the outer envelope of the building and
between windows, which may cause humidity damage during the
heating season.
In normal conditions basic ventilation, with a change of air every two
hours, is sufficient in living areas. Boosting is needed during for
example sauna baths, cooking, clothes washing or family parties.
If the user does not know the measured air flows, the adjacent table
shows approximate extract air flows as well as the total electricity
consumption of the fans at various fan speeds. The table also shows
the fan speed that is sufficient for recommended basic ventilation in
dwellings of different sizes.
The switch positions, i.e. fan speeds displayed in the table against a
darker background, are factory preset values. If needed, an expert
or electrician can change settings (or has changed during the initial
adjustment) and select speeds shown against a white background
instead. Voltage changes are also made by an expert, not the user
himself.
SWITCH POSITION
Living area (m2)
Air flow (dm3/s)
Total electricity
consumption of fans (W)
1
70 V
30
15
25
1.1
90 V
45
20
38
2
120 V
85
30
65
2.1
135V
110
40
80
3
160 V
140
50
105
3.1
180 V
150
55
130
4
230 V
200
70
185
VALLOX TSK (105 W fan)
SWITCH POSITION
Living area (m2)
Air flow (dm3/s)
Total electricity
consumption of fans (W)
1
70 V
40
20
43
1.1
90 V
70
30
65
2
120 V
140
50
110
2.1
135V
170
60
130
3
160 V
200
70
165
3.1
180 V
220
80
195
4
230 V
250
90
240
VALLOX TSK (180 W fan)

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VALLOX TSK
INSTRUCTIONS FOR USE
6
Heat recovery cell bypass with
summer / winter damper
In summer when there is need for cooling, the damper (B) can be
released from the spring behind the support (A). The damper then
goes down upon the cell, preventing flow through the cell. At the
same time, a duct opens behind the cell, letting extract air flow past
the cell. In autumn when the heating season starts, the damper must
be put in winter position by lifting it on top of the spring behind the
support. Damper position change can take place during the
maintenance of filters, for instance. If the unit has electric post-heating,
turn the thermostat to +2 °C (C) and change it back for winter when
bypass has been turned off, to +13 °C.
Heat recovery cell antifreeze
The cell is kept unfrozen by a thermostat (inside the electric box),
which stops the outdoor air fan in advance. The thermostat has been
set at the factory to stop the fan when exhaust air temperature goes
down to +5 °C. The fan restarts as soon as exhaust air temperature
goes up to +10 °C. The setpoint of the thermostat can be changed
afterwards. If freezing takes place in the cell, the threshold may be
raised by turning the spindle clockwise, and if the fan keeps stopping
too early, the threshold may be lowered. Spindle positions have
been marked on the inner surface of the electric box cover. NOTE!
Even a change of one or two degrees has a substantial impact.
Post-heating
The unit may have electric (D, 1000 W) or water-based post-heating.
The thermostat (C) for electric heating is confined to about
2…14 °C. The water radiator may be controlled by a self-actuated
thermostat, which has been installed inside the ceiling behind the
unit, or inside the room. Post-heating does not require special
maintenance.
Heat recovery
bypass on
(summer position)
Heat recovery
bypass off
(winter position)
A B
A B
C
Thermostat and post-
heating radiator
D

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VALLOX TSK
INSTRUCTIONS FOR USE
7
Adjustment of ventilation power
VALLOX TSK ventilation unit can be controlled with either a cooker hood or a separate control
centre.
Cooker hood control
The cooker hood is connected to the ventilation unit and is used to control air circulation in
the whole dwelling. Four power ranges are available.
Speed 1
Use during absence. When the dwelling is empty, ventilation can be temporarily diminished.
Speeds 2 and 3
These are speeds that are normally used. Speed 2 is used when the need for ventilation is
fairly small and air is good.
Speed 3 is used when there is a need for boosting, for instance in the following situations:
cooking, taking a sauna bath, drying clothes, use of toilet, guests, excess heat and "large
dwellings".
Speed 4
Boosting position, used as needed for example during cooking, parties and hot weathers.
123
4
The table on page 5 indicates rated
speeds and air flows for dwellings
of different sizes. The table also
indicates the total electricity
consumption of the fans at each
speed.
Cooking
Open the flap of the cooker hood during cooking. At other
times, the flap must be kept closed. An open flap decreases the
power of ventilation in other rooms. There are different kinds
of cooker hoods. For more details, see the instructions of the
hood in question.

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VALLOX TSK
INSTRUCTIONS FOR USE
8
Separate cooker hood (most often in detached houses)
If there is a cooker hood independent of the ventilation system in the dwelling, only use it
when needed. Using it does not affect the operation of the ventilation unit, because the unit
replaces air in other rooms. There is in this case minor extract ventilation in the kitchen,
connected to the ventilation unit. The ventilation unit is then controlled with a separate control
centre.
Separate control centre
The regulator (switch) is only used to control the ventilation unit. There are four power ranges
available.
Speed 1
Use during absence. When the dwelling is empty, ventilation can temporarily be diminished.
Speeds 2 and 3
These are speeds that are normally used. Speed 2 is used when the need for ventilation is
fairly small and air is good.
Speed 3 is used when there is a need for boosting, for instance in the following situations:
cooking, taking a sauna bath, drying clothes, use of toilet, guests, excess heat and "large
dwellings".
Speed 4
Boosting position, used as needed for example during cooking, parties and hot weathers.
Cooking
Cooking fumes are taken out with a cooker hood or an integrated hood and ventilator. For
more instructions, see the instructions of the equipment in question.
Detailed instructions for special control centres are available.
Control centre with
a separate switch
Control centre

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VALLOX TSK
MAINTENANCE INSTRUCTIONS
9
The cleaning and maintenance of ventilation units is usually the responsibility
of the maintenance company used by the housing company.
Start
The maintenance for the unit of each dwelling is carried out from the staircase, through the
locked service door situated above the door to the dwelling in question. Remove the door
plates (A) of the unit by opening the star knobs (B). The unit includes a maintenance switch
(C), which is used to stop the unit for the duration of maintenance. Depending on the internal
electricity connections of the house, the maintenance switch may also make the cooker hood
in the dwelling dead.
Filters
Maintenance includes the cleaning or replacement of G3 coarse filters (D) as needed, for
instance 2 to 4 times a year. F7 fine filter (E) is a disposable filter and cannot be cleaned,
but it must always be replaced with a new one when needed, preferably at one-year intervals
depending on local air quality. It is recommended to replace filters in autumn. This way the
filters stay cleaner throughout the winter and can effectively filter off winter dust.
G3 filters (D) must always be in the unit. It is recommended to time filter maintenance so that
at least one filter replacement takes place in autumn when the pollen period is already over.
This ensures clean filters for winter, without any smells and natural dust that would form a
suitable breeding ground.
Condensing water, i.e. water condensing from extract air
During the heating season, humidity of extract air condenses into condensing water. Water
formation may be abundant in new buildings or if ventilation is low compared to the humidity
build-up caused by the residents.
During maintenance activities, e.g. in autumn before the beginning of the heating season,
make sure that the condensing water outlet (at the rear edge of the bottom reservoir, at where
the heat recovery cell F is) in the bottom reservoir is not clogged. Test it by pouring water into
the reservoir.
Do not let water flow into electrical devices.
A
B
C D F E D

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VALLOX TSK
MAINTENANCE INSTRUCTIONS
10
Heat recovery cell (HR)
Check the cleanliness of the cell (4) at two-year intervals. When
needed, clean the cell with a detergent and water. Grab the
ears at the ends of the cell and pull the cell out of the unit.
Fans
The fans (9) can be easily removed for maintenance. Detach
the spring (11) and the electrical connector (C) and pull the fan
out of the unit for maintenance. When mounting the fan back,
make sure that it tightly fits the collar (10).
Other cleaning
During maintenance, also check the general cleanliness of the
inner side of the unit, including fans, heating radiator, bottom
reservoir and other internal casing. If there is dirt, clean it gently,
for instance with a damp cloth, brush, vacuum cleaner or similar.
It is forbidden to run water into the electrical devices and motors.
Keep the unit clean to ensure its flawless operation and hygiene.
After maintenance
• Switch the unit on at the maintenance switch.
• Ensure that the fans rotate.
-• Close the doors.

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VALLOX TSK
MAINTENANCE INSTRUCTIONS
11
Other parts of the ventilation system
Cooker hood (connected to the ventilation unit)
The most important object of maintenance is the grease filter. To ensure
sufficient absorption capacity it needs to be cleaned sufficiently frequently,
once or twice a month. The filter can be cleaned e.g. in the dishwasher.
It is important to keep the whole cooker hood clean. Neglecting the
cleaning of the filter reduces the abatement of fumes and may cause a
risk of fire.
For more detailed maintenance instructions for instance on the changing
of lamps, see the instructions of the cooker hood.
Cooker hood (with an integrated fan)
Follow the same instructions as for the cooker hood connected to the
ventilation unit. For special instructions, see the instructions of the cooker
hood.
NOTE! It is absolutely forbidden to flambé under the cooker hood.
Ductwork
In blocks of flats and terraced houses, the housing company takes care
of the maintenance and cleaning of the ductwork in accordance with
the regulations and instructions.
Valves
The valves may be gently cleaned on the surface. It is forbidden to
remove the valves and to change their adjustment values. Room dust
may also gather around the supply air valve. The easiest way to remove
it is to vacuum the valve with a brush nozzle. Dirt does not come from
the ductwork with ventilation, but consists of dust in indoor air. This dust
sticks to the ceiling or the wall caused by the flow coming from the valve.
VALVE OPERATION
Dusty indoor air
sticks to the ceiling
drawn by clean air.
Clean air

• Air cools down in the attic ducts.
• The post-heating radiator, if there is one, does not work.
• The extract air filter or the cell is clogged.
• The initial adjustment of ventilation has not been done.
• The heat recovery cell is frozen, which is why extract air cannot heat outdoor air.
DO THIS
• Measure the temperature of supply air in the unit and compare it with the air coming from the valve. If air cools
down in the duct, check the insulation of the attic ducts.
• If the electric radiator does not heat up, check if the adjustment thermostat is in the desired position (change the
setting if needed) or if overheat protection has tripped (press the black button at the end of the radiator). If the
protector has tripped, you hear a click when pressing the button. Pressing the button resets the radiator in working
order after the tripping of the overheat protector. Consult an expert to find out why the overheat protector tripped.
If the water radiator of the VKL model does not heat up, it may be caused by many reasons: wrong position of
thermostat; water does not circulate in the radiator; pump may be stopped or some of the valves off; water
circulating in the radiator may be cold, etc. If necessary, consult an expert.
• If a filter or cell is clogged, clean it (see the instructions).
• If the initial adjustment has not been done, have it done.
• If the cell is frozen, check the operation of the antifreeze thermostat.
1. Outdoor air coming to the dwelling is cold
• Outdoor air fan stops at too high outdoor temperatures.
• Both fans of the VKL model have stopped.
DO THIS
• If the fan keeps stopping at too high outdoor temperatures, check the operation of the antifreeze thermostat. The
function starts as soon as outdoor temperature goes below -10 °C. The threshold is not absolute, but is dependent on
the length of the ductworks, insulation, the speed of the unit and other things.
• If both fans of the VKL model have stopped, the antifreeze function of water-operated radiator is active. NOTE! If there
is no non-freezing solution in the water of the radiator, the radiator is at risk of freezing and breaking down. If the
radiator breaks down, there is a risk of water damage. Immediately troubleshoot the situation. Check if heating is on.
The situation may pass by itself as soon as supply air temperature exceeds 10 °C, but do not wait till it happens.
You can influence the operation of the antifreeze thermostat as follows:
• If freezing occurs in the cell, you can set the sensor closer to the cell, which makes the fan stop earlier (the cell has to
be thawed out before closing the cover).
• If the fan keeps stopping at too high outdoor temperatures (no humidity, no freezing), you can move the sensor further
away from the cell.
• An expert may also adjust the thermostat in the connection box by turning its spindle clockwise to +10 °C or counter-
clockwise to 0 °C. At 0 °C freezing is likely; at 10 °C no freezing occurs but extract air can be too warm when going
out. According to the factory setting, the antifreeze thermostat works at 4 °C.
2. Other possible disturbances
VALLOX TSK
TROUBLESHOOTING
Vallox Oy FI-32200 Loimaa Finland Telephone [phone] Fax [phone]
Internet www.vallox.com.
© VALLOX • We reserve the right to make changes without prior
1.09.380F/20.06.07/PDF
In case of failure in a block of flats or terraced house, contact either the person responsible for maintenance or
the maintenance company.