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the top. Stand the receiver on end and allow the Loc-tite to flow out until it covers all the
threads. Allow 24 hours for the Loc-tite to set-up before leaving an axle in the receiver or
the axle may become permanently stuck in the receiver.
4) WHEEL ALIGNMENT
Correct wheel alignment is crucial to chair performance. DO NOT change front caster
wheel size or alter caster stem ride height as this will affect the toe-in.
If you experience problems with your chair not tracking properly, you probably have a
bent axle or a bad front caster wheel. To check your axles, first remove them from the
wheels, if you find this difficult, it is your first clue that the axle is bent. Next, insert them
FULLY into the axle receiver. They should slide in and out without any binding. If you
detect resistance, try a NEW axle. If the new axle slides in and out smoothly, your axle
was bent. If you detect resistance with a new axle, you may have a burr inside the axle
receiver, which can be easily removed with a 1/2" brake hone mounted in a drill. Spray
the hone with WD-40, insert it into the receiver and run the drill at a SLOW R.P.M.,(500-
800 R.P.M.) moving the hone in and out at the same time. The hone removes material
very quickly, so run it for no more than 10 to 15 seconds at a time. Clean the inside of the
receiver thoroughly, removing all grit before attempting to re-install the axle.
5) FRAME
Since June 2006, all of our frames are professionally heat treated to aerospace standards,
making our frames more robust than ever. That being said, DO NOT attempt welding on
your frame as this will negate the heat treating process.
Unlike steel, aluminum does have a fatigue life. The constant pounding and abuse that
rugby chair must endure taxes the frames. Once a month, do a good visual inspection of
your frame, looking for any cracks.
6) CASTER WHEEL ASSEMBLIES
Keep your caster wheels free of accumulated gook from the gym floors, as it increases
your rolling resistance.
Avoid running into curb cut-outs if pushing your chair outdoors as this may bend your
front caster stems and/or damage the caster stem bearings. If you find your front caster
forks are not rotating smoothly, you may need to replace the caster stem and/or bearings.
When replacing a bent stem bolt, make sure to note the location and thickness of the ride
height washers for correct reassembly. NOTE: see page 8 for default ride height shims
Use ‘blue’ #242 loc-tite on both lower jamb nuts. Tighten upper lock-nut (3/4” wrench or
socket) until snug and caster is difficult to rotate, then loosen nut slightly. If the nut is too
loose, it may cause ‘caster flutter’ at higher speeds. If you are experiencing ‘caster
flutter’, snug the lock-nut slightly.
