Vintage Model Co CESSNA 140 User manual

CESSNA 140
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Cessna 140
THE CESSNA 140
– BRINGING PRIVATE AVIATION
TO THE MASSES
The Cessna 140 rst rolled off the production line in
1946. It was (and still is) a pretty little aeroplane that
was cheap to purchase, run and maintain. It also had
stable, well-mannered ying characteristics, making
it very popular with pilots at a time when post war
light aeroplane ownership was beginning to boom
in the U.S.A.
Along with the even cheaper, lower specication
Cessna 120 (which outwardly looks similar apart
from a lack of aps and the rear quarter-lights), over
7500 were reportedly produced, many of which are
still ying today.
The original design featured an 85 horsepower
engine and it could cruise at over 95 Knots (around
110 MPH). The fuselage was metal, with fabric
covered wings. The construction of the wings is not
much different to the technique that will be used to
build this model.
The things that made the original aircraft such
a success also translate into making a very nice
free ight scale rubber powered model, which is
particularly suitable for the novice builder.
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YOUR KIT
This kit is designed for you to build a traditionally
constructed, rubber powered, free ight model of
a Cessna 140. The kit is provided with the materials
(other than paints) to complete the suggested
authentic scheme of a red Cessna 140 that is
registered in Uruguay. This is a simple but striking
scheme, however you can decide to do your own
favourite or more complicated scheme if you wish.
Construction of the model from this kit uses the
traditional method of ‘stick and tissue’, that consists
of a built up balsa wood skeleton (framework),
covered with a tissue skin. The balsa frameworks
are built over a plan that is printed at the exact
scale of the model, which is in essence a real
engineering drawing.
Power is provided by rubber strip motor that is
wound up before ight. Free ight means just that –
once the model is launched, it is on its own. It must
follow a predetermined ight path established when
the model is initially adjusted for ight or ‘trimmed’.
This type of traditional building technique and
ying requires a degree of patience and skill, but is
extremely rewarding.
The Cessna 140 is just one of a series of kits
designed and manufactured by the Vintage Model
Company. Aeromodelling was very popular from
the 1950s until the 1980s and following a decline
and the loss of UK manufacturers such as FROG,
KeilKraft and Veron, a revival is now underway. The
advent of modern technology such as laser cutting
of parts and the growth of the internet giving
access to information on the skills and techniques
required to successfully build and y these models,
means new enthusiasts are discovering the joys of
aeromodelling every day.
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Typically for a small model and in the spirit of the
traditional kits, proles are simplied and adjusted
from the original and a relatively large propeller
is used. This is done so that the model is light
and stable enough to y on its own, is simple in
construction and can work with the rubber motor.
These adjustments have been done with care and
sensitivity so that the shape and spirit of the original
aircraft is preserved as much as possible. Also in the
spirit of the traditional kits, additional items required
to build the model are things that can be found in the
kitchen drawer or are easily available on the high street.
KIT CONTENTS
• Three balsa sheets with precise laser cut parts
and strip wood.
• PVA glue for building the wooden frames.
• One 150mm diameter plastic propeller.
• One pre-bent motor hook and shaft.
• Three low friction plastic ‘nose’ bushings
– one for the propeller and two for the
undercarriage wheels.
• Acetate sheet for screens.
• Piano wire for the main undercarriage and tail
wheel legs.
• One motor peg (cocktail stick or toothpick).
• Rubber motor strip.
• Tissue to cover the model.
• Parts reference sheet (W), full size summary plan
sheet (X), scheme diagram sheet (Y) and scheme
markings (Z) printed on lightweight paper.
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OTHER THINGS THAT YOU WILL NEED
CONSUMABLES
• Glue. ‘Cyano’ (sometimes called ‘superglue’),
quick setting epoxy and a ‘glue stick’.
• Cling lm or waxed paper to cover your plan or a
wax candle to rub over it.
• One sheet of standard printer paper (80gsm).
• Tissue sealant – if you want to y your model
outdoors (see ‘Covering’ for details).
• Paints (Humbrol-style enamels) if you want to
give your model an authentic scheme.
TOOLS
• A at piece of wood or cork that is large enough for
the largest part of the model and soft enough for
pins to be pushed into.
• Some modelling pins. If these aren’t available,
dress making pins or drawing pins with tall heads
will sufce.
• A sharp craft knife or scalpel.
• Pliers and wire cutters.
• 180 and 600 grit sandpaper and a small sanding
block, or a disposable nail le with rough and
smooth sides.
• A small engineers square or a plastic set square
from a school geometry set.
• 30cm rule (preferably steel).
• ‘Blu-Tack’ or plasticine.
• A ne marker pen.
• Brushes – one thin and ne, one at and soft
10-12mm wide.
• An old perfume bottle or similar that can deliver
a ne mist of tap water.
• Some sprung wooden clothes pegs to use as clamps.
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THE PLAN, GENERAL BUILDING TECHNIQUES,
TERMS, HINTS AND TIPS
The plan provides most instructions for the
construction of the major components.
Major components are all built over the outlines
on the plan provided.
Cover your plan with cling lm or waxed paper or
rub it all over with a wax candle to stop the parts
sticking to it.
There are some terms used on the plan that you
may not be familiar with:
• Laminate: This means to make a glued sandwich
of various parts, often with the grain of the parts
crossed to make a single thicker and stronger
part. When laminating, ensure that the parts are
held together or weighted down and are aligned
according to the plan instructions. Make sure that
you remove excess glue that squishes out, as not
doing so can make the parts harder to sand and
in internal corners, may leave an undesirable
glue ‘llet’.
• Cut through section: This is simply a way of
showing parts on the plan in more detail – as if
you had cut through the parts on the line shown.
The parts that are ‘cut’ are shown ‘cross hatched’.
• Bevel: This means to angle the edges of a part,
usually by sanding.
SAFETY
This kit is not a toy and as such is not suitable for
children below the age of 14. Read and follow
any instructions and warnings given on the
various glues, adhesives and paints, etc. When
ying your model, follow the guidelines in the
section ‘Trimming and ying your model’.
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TIPS TO MAKE A GOOD JOB OF YOUR MODEL
Read and follow the instructions and the plan carefully.
• A light model will y much better than a heavy
one, so use glues and adhesives sparingly. Work
neatly and remove excess adhesive that squishes
out from joints – glue weighs far more than the
balsa wood! A piece of stiff 1.6mm square scrap
wood with the end cut at an angle makes an ideal
scraper to remove excess glue from corners or slots.
• To avoid losing the parts, remove them from the
laser cut sheets only when you need them. Use
the parts reference sheet to identify the required
part(s). Keep what remains of the balsa sheets
once the parts have been removed. This ‘ scrap’
can be useful later to replace a broken part, or
make other detailed parts of your choosing.
• Balsa wood is very delicate – a light touch is
required and this is especially true when sanding.
If you have not sanded balsa before, practice on
the scrap edges of the balsa sheets. You will be
surprised by how quickly the material is removed!
• When using glue (especially cyano), don’t use it
from the tube directly. Instead, drop some onto
a non-porous disposable surface such as clean
foil from a yoghurt pot lid. Alternatively, save
pistachio nut shells – one held upright and rm
on a piece of Blu-Tack or plasticine makes an
ideal disposable glue container. You can then
pick up precise amounts of glue on the end of
a pin or piece of wire to apply to the parts. This
saves overuse of the glue and the potential
embarrassment of sticking yourself or other items
to your model!
• All of the contact surfaces of the parts to be
joined should be covered in glue.
• To remove the balsa parts, cut through the tabs
that join them to the sheets with a sharp craft
knife or scalpel – do not try to snap them from the
sheets as they may split. Remove the remains of
the tab with a light sanding.
• Some parts have a laser engraved letter ‘T’
on them – this means that the part should be
orientated with the letter T to the top when it is
correctly assembled.
• If you decide to paint your model, then use paint
sparingly. It is very easy to add weight with paint
and your model will not y well if it is too heavy.
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• The balsa sheets are graded. Sheet 1 is hard and
strong but heavy – it is used for parts where strength
is in preference to weight. Sheets 2 and 3 are weaker
and softer but light and are used for parts where
lightness is key, obviously at the expense of strength.
There are long lengths of cut balsa (known as strip)
on both the ‘light’ and ‘heavy’ sheets, so use strip
wisely and as suggested by the instructions to make
things as strong and light as possible.
• Never push pins through the balsa parts or strip –
it will weaken them or cause the wood to split. Use
pins each side of the parts either angling them or
using the head to hold the parts down.
• Never force a part to t – check and adjust it until
it ts snugly but without force.
• Pin parts together tightly but be careful not to crush
or damage the wood – a tight joint is a strong one.
• Trial t the parts before gluing and carefully adjust
them if required. They are cut accurately, but
small errors can occur between the parts and the
printed plan. Wood is a natural material and its
thickness may vary – it will contract and/or expand
after the parts are laser cut.
• You can work on several parts at one time.
For instance, you can make up the wheels and
undercarriage at the same time as something else
is setting. Just make sure you read through the
instructions rst and follow a logical sequence.
• If you have never bent wire parts before, then grab
a few paper clips and practice on those with your
pliers, before committing to bend the (expensive)
piano wire in the kit. Use a ne Sharpie marker to
mark the position of each bend as you go along.
• The internet contains a huge amount of
information to help you build your model.
Searching for terms such as ‘free ight scale’ and
‘stick and tissue’ will yield example builds and a lot
of useful information to help you with your build.
• Above all… take your time!
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MAKING UP THE SANDING BLOCK
A number of steps in these instructions call for
the sanding of parts. Using sand paper on a at
block offers much more control that holding it in
ones ngers, so the kit includes parts to make up
a sanding block that is handy for building this and
other kits in the VMC range. It is sized at exactly
1/21st of a standard sheet of sandpaper and each
piece will last for more than 4 or 5 models, so it
is well worth making as a useful tool which when
supplied with a couple of sheets of sandpaper will
last for quite some time. If you do not intend to
use the sanding block then it is still a useful thing
to make so that the feel for the balsa wood and the
gluing and laminating techniques can be gained.
1) Identify and remove the two sanding block parts
from the balsa sheets. Note how the grain runs
along the length of one piece and across the other.
2) Laminate the two parts together cross grained
pinning them to the board to keep them at and
aligned. Ensure any excess glue is removed, then
leave the glue to set.
3) Cut pieces of 180 and 600 grit sandpaper to the
exact size of the sanding block (do not use a fresh
new blade for this as it will quickly be blunted!
4) Glue the 180 grit sandpaper to one side of the
block and the 600 grit to the other, use a book
or heavy object to hold everything at until the
glue sets.
5) Once the sanding block is dry it is ready for use
in the following steps!
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MAIN PARTS AND FRAMES
BUILDING SCHEDULE
THE CENTRE SECTION
1) Identify and remove all of the parts on the laser
cut sheets: CS1, CS2, CS3, CS4, R1 (2 off) and
4 off corner gussets.
2) Pin down CS2 and CS3 at over the outlines on
the plan. Check the t at each end using the ribs
R1 as a guide.
3) Pin part CS1 upright in position over the plan,
once again using the ribs R1 as a guide that
everything is positioned correctly. The ‘ears’ on
part CS1 should locate snugly in the forward end
of the slots in R1.
4) Glue in position ribs R1 tilting them to meet the
angled end face of CS3, making sure that they
are securely glued to all of the other parts. Allow
the glue to set for a while before proceeding.
5) Glue CS4 on top of part CS2, ensuring it is ush
with its rearmost edge.
6) From 1.6mm square strip, cut the upper rear
spar and glue it into the notches between ribs R1
each side.
7) Glue the corner gussets where shown. Allow the
whole assembly to dry then lift it from the board.
8) Bevel the top edge of part CS4 to match the
prole of the ribs R1.
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THE MAIN WING PANELS
1) Identify and remove one set of parts in the
following quantities from the laser cut sheets:
1 off each W1-W5, R2 (6 off) and 4 off
corner gussets.
2) On the left hand wing outline, pin down the
leading and trailing edges W1 and W2, along
with a 1.6mm square strip that forms the lower
wing spar, noting that the spar nishes inside the
notch of the end rib.
3) Trial t the tip pieces W3 and W4 and the inner
and outer ribs. You may need to adjust the ends
of W3 and W4 for the correct t. If so, carefully
sand the ends that t to the leading and trailing
edges, not the part that meets in the centre.
Once you are satised, glue W3 and W4 to each
other in place and to the leading and trailing
edges, ensuring neat and strong butt joints.
4) Fit and glue all of the ribs, making sure that they
are upright and properly located in the lower
spar, leading and trailing edges.
5) Fit a 1.6mm square strip as the upper spar,
noting that it runs from the notch of the outer
rib and extends out from the inner rib as shown
on the plan.
6) Glue W5 in position, along with the corner
gussets and the 1.6mm square strips at the base
of the rib shown.
7) Repeat for the right hand wing panel. Leave
both panels to set before removing them from
the building board.
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COMPLETING THE WINGS
1) Pin the wing centre section back over the prole
on the plan. Ensure that it is nice and at and
that it is accurately positioned.
2) Take the left hand wing panel and apply glue to
the end face of the end rib and the mating face of
the top spar extension. Then glue to the face of
R2 on the centre section, ensuring it is correctly
aligned to both the centre section and the prole
on the plan. Prop up the wing tip 12mm using
a matchbox or similar. The two pieces can be
clamped together using a sprung clothes peg or
gentle modellers clamp. Just make sure that the
wood is not crushed as it is clamped.
3) Repeat step 2 for the right wing panel. Leave the
entire assembly to set before removing it from
the building board.
4) Round off the leading edge of the wing assembly
and taper the trailing edge as shown on the plan.
Carefully give the entire structure a light sanding
to smooth the joints, remove lumps and bumps
and the burnt edges of the laser parts.
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THE TAIL PLANE (STABILIZER)
1) Identify and remove all of the parts on the laser
cut sheets: 1 off T1, 2off T2-T6, 1 off T7 and 2
off corner gussets.
2) From the 1.6mm square strip, cut all of the ribs using
the plan to get the right length, set these aside.
3) Pin down the tail plane central spar T1.
4) Lay out the parts starting at T7 and work round
in each direction trial tting T2 and T3, making
any small adjustments. When you are satised,
glue all the parts in position, making sure that
you have nice neat butt joints.
5) Trial t parts T4, T5 and T6 each side. Once
you are satised they are a good t, glue into
position. Allow this outline to set.
6) Once the outline is set, glue all of the ribs in
place adjusting the length if necessary. Glue the
2 off corner gussets in position.
7) Leave to set, then remove from the board and
give both sides as well as the outside edges
a light sand. Be careful so as not to make the
structure too thin or cause unevenness in the
surface by over sanding.
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THE FIN AND RUDDER
1) Identify and remove all of the parts on the laser
cut sheets: FR1-FR7 and 1 off corner gusset.
2) From the 1.6mm square strip, cut all of the
other ribs using the plan to get the right length,
set these aside.
3) Pin down the n and rudder central spar FR1.
4) Offer up parts FR6 and FR7, then the base rib.
When you are happy, glue in position along with
FR5 and the corner gusset.
5) Lay out parts FR2, FR3, and FR4. When you are
happy they are a good t, glue them together
and to FR1 with snug butt joints.
6) Leave to set, then remove from the board and
give both sides as well as the outside edges
a light sand. Be careful so as not to make the
structure too thin or cause unevenness in the
surface by over sanding.
THE FUSELAGE
At this point the major side pieces of the fuselage
should be very carefully handled, as before the
various stiffeners and other structural parts are
added, they are reasonably delicate and should be
handled with care.
Preparing all of the parts:
1) Identify and remove all of the parts on the laser
cut sheets: 2 off K1, F1, F2, F3A, F3B, F5, F6
and 2 off F10.
2) Pin the two fuselage sides K1 down onto the
board so they are ‘mirrored’ (see sketch on the
plan). Although it is not strictly necessary to pin
them down, it does help to ensure that you end
up with two mirrored parts i.e. a left hand and a
right hand.
3) Referring to the plan, add 1.6mm square strips
to the major fuselage side pieces K1, along with
parts F10, making sure that the ‘T’ is at the top.
Leave to set.
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4) Referring to the plan, glue 1.6mm square strip
‘strengtheners’ on F5 and F6 ensuring that they
do not overhang the edges of the parts.
5) Laminate parts F3A and F3B together, aligning
the notches in F3B with the square holes in F3A,
then laminate parts F1 and F2 together, making
sure that the proles and the square holes align
correctly. In both cases, pin the parts down to
keep them at and ensure that any glue that
squishes out from the parts is removed from the
edges, notches, and slots, otherwise the parts
may not t together well later.
6) Once parts K1 are set, remove them from the
board and add the bevel to the ends as indicated
on the plan, being careful to make the bevel on
the right face (i.e. on the same side as the strip).
7) Using wire cutters and pliers make up the
undercarriage legs and tail wheel from the
wire provided.
8) Identify and remove part TW1 on the laser cut
sheet. Glue to the centre of the tail wheel wire
with cyano. Allow it to dry, then sand the wood
ush to the wire.
9) Remove all other parts from the board once set and
put them aside for the next stage of construction.
A SSEM BLY
1) As well as all of the parts as prepared in the
previous steps, identify and remove all of the
parts on the laser cut sheets: K2, F3,F4, F5A,
F11, and 2 off each F7, F8 and F9.
2) Pin down one K1 so that the strip on it faces
upwards, then t and glue F5 and F6 in position,
ensuring the strengtheners are facing rearwards.
Make sure that both formers are at right angles to
the fuselage side using a square. Now leave to set.
3) Glue the second fuselage side to the opposite
end of the formers, again making sure that all
is located square and true. Leave to set before
removing from the board.
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4) Bring the nose together, tting the F1 and F2
assembly. Take care to make sure that the tabs on
the fuselage locate neatly into the slots in F2 – it
should appear to be at a slight downward angle.
5) Pinch the rear of the fuselage together and glue,
ensuring the ends meet uniformly and the fuselage
remains straight and true. Use the gauge lines on
the sheet/plan to help. Hold the ends together
with a clothes peg or similar until the glue is set.
6) Fit the F3A/F3B assembly and all other formers
and cross pieces top and bottom working from
front to rear, ensuring that the fuselage remains
square and true in all directions. Take careful note
as to how each former sits in its slot especially the
ones at the nose. Do not t F5A at this stage.
7) Fit part K2 adjusting at the ends if required for a
strong and snug t.
8) Fit 1.6mm square strip stringers between F2 and
F4, but do not t stringers to the lower part of
the fuselage yet.
9) Cut a small slot as shown in the rear of the
fuselage to ‘let in’ the tail wheel wire. Then
epoxy the rear tail wheel in place. Do not use
too much epoxy – a small amount is all that is
required, as it is heavy and excess may add too
much weight to the model.
10) Fit the main undercarriage wire as shown on the
plan with epoxy, sandwiching it with F5A and
lining up the slots and prole in F5A with F5.
11) Fit 1.6mm square strip bottom stringers, cut
them a little longer than required, then glue
them rstly at F3 and then nick them about half
way through between F5A and F5. Apply glue
to the slots in F5A/F5, then carefully ‘crack’
them and bend them to meet F6, gluing them
there now too.
12) Set the fuselage aside and complete the nose block.
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THE NOSE BLOCK
1) Remove parts in the following quantities from
the laser cut sheets: 1 off each NB1-NB5,
NP1 and NP2.
2) With the cross markings on part NB5 facing
outwards, laminate the parts NB1-NB5, aligning
the central hole. Also make sure that the proles
are evenly matched. Allow this nose block
assembly to dry, then set it aside.
3) Laminate parts NP1 and NP2 aligning the central
hole, making sure that the edges are all ush.
Allow this nose plug assembly to dry.
4) Once dry, trial t it to the square hole in the
fuselage nose, adjusting it to have an easy t.
Cyano adhesive can be run around the hole and
the edges of the part to harden the wood. BUT
DO NOT glue this plug to the fuselage.
5) Glue the nose plug to the nose block, ensuring
that it lines up with the cross markings on NB5
and that the holes remain in line. Make sure that
any glue that squishes out between the parts is
removed, otherwise it will prevent the parts from
sitting together properly. Allow the completed
nose block to dry.
6) Glue a plastic nose bush into the hole in the
nose block using cyano adhesive. DON’T
ALLOW THE ADHESIVE TO GO INSIDE
THE BUSH.
FINISHING THE FUSELAGE
1) Fit the nose block, BUT DO NOT GLUE IT IN
PLACE! Then, sand it to match the fuselage to the
prole as shown on the plan. If you want to paint
the nose block, it should be coated with full strength
dope and sanded to a smooth nish beforehand.
2) Sand the fuselage all over to remove the burnt
edges of the parts. Be careful not to over sand
and ruin the prole of the parts.
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THE WING STRUTS
1) Remove parts in the following quantities from
the laser cut sheets: 1 off S1.
2) Using parts S1 and the 3.2mm wide strip make
up two wing strut assemblies over the plan,
sanding the struts to the prole as shown. Note:
leave the struts overly long and trim to length and
bevel the ends on nal assembly.
THE WHEELS
1) Identify and remove parts in the following
quantities from the laser cut sheets: 6 off WH1,
4 off WH2. Note: The wheels can be made
in different styles and thicknesses using any
combination of parts WH1 and WH2 as desired.
2) Sand the internal diameter of the WH1 parts to
remove the ‘tags’ and burnt edges using a piece
of sandpaper wrapped round a pencil or similar.
3) Laminate the parts cross grained as shown on
the plan to make 2 wheels, making sure all of
the parts stay concentric. Once they are set,
round the edges off as shown on the plan. If you
want to paint the wheels they should be coated
with full strength dope and sanded to a smooth
nish beforehand.
4) Shorten and then t a plastic nose bush to
each wheel using cyano adhesive. DON’T
ALLOW THE ADHESIVE TO GO INSIDE
THE BUSH.
5) Set the wheels aside until the nal assembly stage.
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COVERING
The tissue in the kit is used to provide a ‘skin’ over
the balsa wood framework. The basic idea is that
the tissue is attached to the framework and then
sprayed with water and then left to dry. As the tissue
dries, it shrinks and tightens. For ying indoors
this can be left ‘as is’, however, sealing the tissue is
advisable if you intend to y your model outside, as
it makes the tissue more durable and stops it going
‘saggy’ if it is damp or humid. Traditionally, cellulose
dope was used for sealing the tissue (thus the
process is often called ‘doping’). Cellulose dope is
pretty smelly and is now frowned upon for shipping
by post making it hard to obtain unless you have
an old fashioned model shop in your locality. Two
alternatives are available:
Clear lacquer This is available at many DIY stores
in spray cans. The model can be given a single coat
of it once it is built, but before the paper decals are
applied. If you use this method then make sure that
you only apply a light coat. It is very easy to get
carried away with it and add a lot of weight!
Eze Dope This is a modern replacement for
cellulose dope, and being water based it is ne to
be shipped by post. This is thinned (30% Eze-Dope
to 70% water) and then brushed on the tissue
after it has been shrunk. If you choose to use the
Eze-Dope, then you should shrink the tissue with
a 5% solution of it (rather than plain water) and
pin the model parts down each time you apply a
coat, as you do when you shrink them following the
instructions overleaf:
VMC Instruction Booklet - Cessna 140 OCT18.indd 20 23/10/2018 18:22