Vintage Model Co JODEL D-18 User manual

JODEL D-18
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Jodel D-18
THE JODEL D-18
– A FUN FRENCH HOMEBUILT PLANE
The Jodel D18 is a two-seater, homebuilt light
aircraft. Introduced in the mid 1980s and still
available today, it is a derivative of the tiny Jodel D9
Bebe (Baby) that was designed by Eduard Joly and
Jean Delemontez in 1948. Initially the D9 was only
meant to be for their own ying fun, but the simple
easy to build and robust design had customers
including the French government wanting to buy
it. The two men produced and licensed the aircraft
and over the years more variants including the
D18 were designed. The most distinctive feature
of the Jodel designs is the ‘cranked’ wing and the
D18 continues this tradition. This feature endows
the aeroplane with stable and predictable ying
characteristics, making it a very suitable candidate
for a rubber powered free ight model. The Jodel
Avions Company have never actually produced
this aircraft, instead licences are sold to the
homebuilder. Nearly all of the aircraft is made of
wood and power often comes from a converted VW
air-cooled unit that is cheap and readily available for
the builder, who would have to spend up to 2000
hours constructing their aircraft. It is reported that
around 500 licences have been sold, however being
a homebuilt, it is likely that a good proportion of
these have never actually taken to the air.
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YOUR KIT
This kit is for building a traditionally constructed,
rubber powered, free ight model of a Jodel
D18. The kit is provided with the materials (other
than paints) to complete the suggested authentic
scheme of a yellow Jodel D18 that is registered
in the UK. This is a simple but striking scheme,
but alternatively you can decide to do your own
favourite or more complicated scheme if you wish.
Construction of the model from this kit uses the
traditional method of ‘stick and tissue’, that consists
of a built up balsa wood skeleton (framework),
covered with a tissue skin. The balsa frameworks
are built over a plan that is printed at the exact
scale of the model, which is in essence a real
engineering drawing.
Power is provided by rubber strip motor that is
wound up before ight. Free ight means just that –
once the model is launched, it is on its own. It must
follow a predetermined ight path established when
the model is initially adjusted for ight or ‘trimmed’.
This type of traditional building technique and
ying requires a degree of patience and skill, but is
extremely rewarding.
The Jodel is just one of a series of kits designed and
manufactured by the Vintage Model Company.
Aeromodelling was very popular from the 1950s
until the 1980s and following a decline and the loss
of UK manufacturers such as FROG, KeilKraft and
Veron, a revival is now underway. The advent of
modern technology such as laser cutting of parts
and the growth of the internet giving access to
information on the skills and techniques required
to successfully build and y these models, means
new enthusiasts are discovering the joys of
aeromodelling every day.
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Typically for a small model and in the spirit of the
traditional kits, proles are simplied and adjusted
from the original and a relatively large propeller
is used. This is done so that the model is light
and stable enough to y on its own, is simple in
construction and can work with the rubber motor.
These adjustments have been done with care and
sensitivity so that the shape and spirit of the original
aircraft is preserved as much as possible. Also in the
spirit of the traditional kits, additional items required
to build the model are things that can be found in the
kitchen drawer or are easily available on the high street.
KIT CONTENTS
• Three balsa sheets with precise laser cut parts
and strip wood.
• PVA glue for building the wooden frames.
• One 150mm diameter plastic propeller.
• One pre-bent motor hook and shaft.
• Three low friction plastic ‘nose’ bushings
– one for the propeller and two for the
undercarriage wheels.
• One vacuum formed canopy and spinner.
• Piano wire for the main undercarriage and tail
wheel legs.
• One motor peg (cocktail stick or toothpick).
• Rubber motor strip.
• Tissue to cover the model.
• Parts reference sheet (W), full size summary plan
sheet (X), scheme diagram sheet (Y) and scheme
markings (Z) printed on lightweight paper.
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OTHER THINGS THAT YOU WILL NEED
CONSUMABLES
• Glue. ‘Cyano’ (sometimes called ‘superglue’),
quick setting epoxy and a ‘glue stick’.
• Cling lm or waxed paper to cover your plan or a
wax candle to rub over it.
• One sheet of standard printer paper (80gsm).
• Tissue sealant – if you want to y your model
outdoors (see ‘Covering’ for details).
• Paints (Humbrol-style enamels) if you want to
give your model an authentic scheme.
TOOLS
• A at piece of wood or cork that is large enough for
the largest part of the model and soft enough for
pins to be pushed into.
• Some modelling pins. If these aren’t available,
dress making pins or drawing pins with tall heads
will sufce.
• A sharp craft knife or scalpel.
• Pliers and wire cutters.
• 180 and 600 grit sandpaper and a small sanding
block, or a disposable nail le with rough and
smooth sides.
• A small engineers square or a plastic set square
from a school geometry set.
• 30cm rule (preferably steel).
• ‘Blu-Tack’ or plasticine.
• A ne marker pen.
• Brushes – one thin and ne, one at and soft
10-12mm wide.
• An old perfume bottle or similar that can deliver
a ne mist of tap water.
• Some sprung wooden clothes pegs to use as clamps.
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THE PLAN, GENERAL BUILDING TECHNIQUES,
TERMS, HINTS AND TIPS
The plan provides most instructions for the
construction of the major components.
Major components are all built over the outlines
on the plan provided.
Cover your plan with cling lm or waxed paper or
rub it all over with a wax candle to stop the parts
sticking to it.
There are some terms used on the plan that you
may not be familiar with:
• Laminate: This means to make a glued sandwich
of various parts, often with the grain of the parts
crossed to make a single thicker and stronger
part. When laminating, ensure that the parts are
held together or weighted down and are aligned
according to the plan instructions. Make sure that
you remove excess glue that squishes out, as not
doing so can make the parts harder to sand and
in internal corners, may leave an undesirable
glue ‘llet’.
• Cut through section: This is simply a way of
showing parts on the plan in more detail – as if
you had cut through the parts on the line shown.
The parts that are ‘cut’ are shown ‘cross hatched’.
• Bevel: This means to angle the edges of a part,
usually by sanding.
SAFETY
This kit is not a toy and as such is not suitable for
children below the age of 14. Read and follow
any instructions and warnings given on the
various glues, adhesives and paints, etc. When
ying your model, follow the guidelines in the
section ‘Trimming and ying your model’.
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TIPS TO MAKE A GOOD JOB OF YOUR MODEL
Read and follow the instructions and the plan carefully.
• A light model will y much better than a heavy
one, so use glues and adhesives sparingly. Work
neatly and remove excess adhesive that squishes
out from joints – glue weighs far more than the
balsa wood! A piece of stiff 1.6mm square scrap
wood with the end cut at an angle makes an ideal
scraper to remove excess glue from corners or slots.
• To avoid losing the parts, remove them from the
laser cut sheets only when you need them. Use
the parts reference sheet to identify the required
part(s). Keep what remains of the balsa sheets
once the parts have been removed. This ‘ scrap’
can be useful later to replace a broken part, or
make other detailed parts of your choosing.
• Balsa wood is very delicate – a light touch is
required and this is especially true when sanding.
If you have not sanded balsa before, practice on
the scrap edges of the balsa sheets. You will be
surprised by how quickly the material is removed!
• When using glue (especially cyano), don’t use it
from the tube directly. Instead, drop some onto
a non-porous disposable surface such as clean
foil from a yoghurt pot lid. Alternatively, save
pistachio nut shells – one held upright and rm
on a piece of Blu-Tack or plasticine makes an
ideal disposable glue container. You can then
pick up precise amounts of glue on the end of
a pin or piece of wire to apply to the parts. This
saves overuse of the glue and the potential
embarrassment of sticking yourself or other items
to your model!
• All of the contact surfaces of the parts to be
joined should be covered in glue.
• To remove the balsa parts, cut through the tabs
that join them to the sheets with a sharp craft
knife or scalpel – do not try to snap them from the
sheets as they may split. Remove the remains of
the tab with a light sanding.
• Some parts have a laser engraved letter ‘T’
on them – this means that the part should be
orientated with the letter T to the top when it is
correctly assembled.
• If you decide to paint your model, then use paint
sparingly. It is very easy to add weight with paint
and your model will not y well if it is too heavy.
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• The balsa sheets are graded. Sheet 1 is hard and
strong but heavy – it is used for parts where strength
is in preference to weight. Sheets 2 and 3 are weaker
and softer but light and are used for parts where
lightness is key, obviously at the expense of strength.
There are long lengths of cut balsa (known as strip)
on both the ‘light’ and ‘heavy’ sheets, so use strip
wisely and as suggested by the instructions to make
things as strong and light as possible.
• Never push pins through the balsa parts or strip –
it will weaken them or cause the wood to split. Use
pins each side of the parts either angling them or
using the head to hold the parts down.
• Never force a part to t – check and adjust it until
it ts snugly but without force.
• Pin parts together tightly but be careful not to crush
or damage the wood – a tight joint is a strong one.
• Trial t the parts before gluing and carefully adjust
them if required. They are cut accurately, but
small errors can occur between the parts and the
printed plan. Wood is a natural material and its
thickness may vary – it will contract and/or expand
after the parts are laser cut.
• You can work on several parts at one time.
For instance, you can make up the wheels and
undercarriage at the same time as something else
is setting. Just make sure you read through the
instructions rst and follow a logical sequence.
• If you have never bent wire parts before, then grab
a few paper clips and practice on those with your
pliers, before committing to bend the (expensive)
piano wire in the kit. Use a ne Sharpie marker to
mark the position of each bend as you go along.
• The internet contains a huge amount of
information to help you build your model.
Searching for terms such as ‘free ight scale’ and
‘stick and tissue’ will yield example builds and a lot
of useful information to help you with your build.
• Above all… take your time!
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MAKING UP THE SANDING BLOCK
A number of steps in these instructions call for
the sanding of parts. Using sand paper on a at
block offers much more control that holding it in
ones ngers, so the kit includes parts to make up
a sanding block that is handy for building this and
other kits in the VMC range. It is sized at exactly
1/21st of a standard sheet of sandpaper and each
piece will last for more than 4 or 5 models, so it
is well worth making as a useful tool which when
supplied with a couple of sheets of sandpaper will
last for quite some time. If you do not intend to
use the sanding block then it is still a useful thing
to make so that the feel for the balsa wood and the
gluing and laminating techniques can be gained.
1) Identify and remove the two sanding block parts
from the balsa sheets. Note how the grain runs
along the length of one piece and across the other.
2) Laminate the two parts together cross grained
pinning them to the board to keep them at and
aligned. Ensure any excess glue is removed, then
leave the glue to set.
3) Cut pieces of 180 and 600 grit sandpaper to the
exact size of the sanding block (do not use a fresh
new blade for this as it will quickly be blunted!
4) Glue the 180 grit sandpaper to one side of the
block and the 600 grit to the other, use a book
or heavy object to hold everything at until the
glue sets.
5) Once the sanding block is dry it is ready for use
in the following steps!
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MAIN PARTS AND FRAMES
BUILDING SCHEDULE
THE MAIN WING SECTION
Note: When Building both the main wing section
and the wing tip panels, use the longer lengths of
1.6mm square strip from the stronger and heavier
sheet 1.
1) Identify and remove all of the parts on the laser
cut sheets: W1, W2, W6, R1 (2 off), R2 (2off),
R2A (2off), R3 (6 off), 12 off corner gussets
and dihedral gauges DG (2 off).
2) Pin down W1 and W2 and the bottom spar
from 1.6mm square strip over the outlines on
the plan. Check the t at each end and towards
the centre using the ribs R3 as a guide. Note that
the bottom spar nishes inside the notch
rib R3 at each end.
3) Glue in position the R1 and R2 ribs (4 in total)
making sure that they are securely glued to all of
the other parts, then glue W6 in position.
4) From 1.6mm square strip cut the upper rear
spar and glue it into the notches between ribs
R2 each side.
5) Fit and glue 4 off ribs R3 in the inner positions,
do not t the two outer ribs at this point.
6) Now t and glue the 2 off outer ribs using the
dihedral gauges DG to tilt the top edge inwards
as shown on the plan.
7) Fit and glue the 2 off parts R2A.
8) Fit and glue in position the top spar, leaving the
ends sticking out as shown on the plan.
9) Glue the corner gussets where shown. Allow the
whole assembly to dry then lift it from the board.
Save the dihedral gauges for the wing tip panels.
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THE WING TIP PANELS
1) Identify and remove one set of parts in the
following quantities from the laser cut sheets:
1 off each W3, W4, W5, W7, R4, R5, R6 and
special corner gussets L and T.
2) On the left hand wing tip outline, pin down the
leading and trailing edges W3 and W4, along
with a 1.6mm square strip that forms the lower
wing spar, noting that the spar nishes inside the
notch of the end rib R6.
3) Trial t W5 and R4 adjusting the leading and
trailing edges as necessary for a snug t. Glue
W5 in position then t and glue R5 and R6 only
(i.e. not R4) making sure that they are both
upright and properly located in the lower spar,
leading and trailing edges.
4) Now t and glue rib R4 using the dihedral
gauges DG to tilt the top edge outwards as
shown on the plan.
5) Fit and glue in position the 1.6mm square strip
upper spar.
6) Glue W7 in position, along with the special
corner gussets.
7) Repeat for the right hand wing tip panel. Leave
both panels to set before removing them from
the building board.
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COMPLETING THE WINGS
1) Pin the main wing section back over the prole
on the plan. Ensure it is nice and at and that it
is accurately positioned.
2) Take the left hand wing tip panel and apply glue
to the end face of R4. Also apply glue to the
mating face of the top spar extension on the left
of the main wing panel.
3) Glue the left hand tip panel to the main wing
section ensuring it is correctly aligned to the
prole on the plan. Prop up the tip 25mm using
a matchbox or similar. The two pieces can be
clamped together using a sprung clothes peg or
gentle modellers clamp. Just make sure that the
wood is not crushed as it is clamped.
4) Repeat step 2 for the right wing tip panel. Leave
entire assembly to set before removing it from
the building board. Carefully give the entire
structure a light sanding to smooth the joints,
remove lumps and bumps and the burnt edges
of the laser parts. Then bevel the trailing edge as
shown on the plan.
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THE TAIL PLANE (STABILIZER)
For the tail plane, and n/rudder use the shorter
lengths of 1.6mm square strip from the lighter sheet 3.
1) Identify and remove all of the parts on the laser
cut sheets: T2, T4 and T5 (2 off each) T1, T3
and 12 off corner gussets.
2) From the 1.6mm square strip, cut all of the ribs using
the plan to get the right length. Set these aside.
3) Pin down the tail plane central spar T1 and the
leading edge T3.
4) Trial t the parts T2 making any small
adjustments to the positions of T1 and T3 to
make a snug t. When you are satised, glue
both T2 parts in position making sure that you
have nice neat butt joints.
5) Trial t parts T4 and T5 each side. Once you are
satised they are a good t, glue into position.
Allow this outline to set.
6) Once the outline is set, glue all of the ribs in
place adjusting the length if necessary. Glue the
12 off corner gussets in position.
7) Leave to set then remove from the board and
give both sides as well as the outside edges
a light sand. Be careful so as not make the
structure too thin or cause unevenness in the
surface by over sanding.
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THE FIN AND RUDDER
1) Identify and remove all of the parts on the laser
cut sheets: FR1-FR6 and 1 off corner gusset.
2) From the 1.6mm square strip cut all of the ribs using
the plan to get the right length. Set these aside.
3) Pin down the n and rudder trailing and leading
edges FR1 and FR3.
4) Offer up parts FR2, FR4, FR5, and the rib which
meets the fuselage. When you are happy, glue in
position with snug butt joints. Allow this outline to set.
5) Once the outline is set, glue all of the ribs in
place adjusting the length if necessary. Glue
FR6 and the corner gusset in position.
6) Leave to set then remove from the board and
give both sides as well as the outside edges
a light sand. Be careful so as not to make the
structure too thin or cause unevenness in the
surface by over sanding.
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THE FUSELAGE
Note: The major side pieces of the fuselage (K1)
should be very carefully handled as, before the
various stiffeners and other structural parts are
added, they are quite delicate.
Preparing all of the parts:
1) Identify and remove all of the parts on the laser
cut sheets: K1, K3 (2 off each), F1, F2, F6, F7
and F8.
2) Pin the two fuselage sides K1 down onto the
board so they are ‘mirrored’ (see sketch on the
plan). Although it is not strictly necessary to pin
them down, it does help to ensure that you end
up with two mirrored parts i.e. a left hand and a
right hand.
3) Referring to the plan, glue light 1.6mm square
strips to the fuselage side pieces K1, along with
parts K3. Make sure that the holes align.
4) Referring to the plan, glue light strip
‘strengtheners’ on F6, F7 and F8 ensuring that
they do not overhang the edges of the parts.
5) Laminate parts F1 and F2 together making
sure that the proles and the square holes align
correctly. Pin the parts down to keep them
at and ensure that any glue that squishes out
from the parts is removed from the edges,
notches and slots, otherwise the parts may not t
together well later.
6) Once parts K1 are set, remove them from the
board and add the bevel to the ends as indicated
on the plan, being careful to make the bevel on
the correct face (i.e. on the same side as the strip).
7) Once set, remove all other parts from the
board and put them aside for the next stage
of construction.
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A SS EM BLY
1) As well as all of the parts prepared in the
previous steps, identify and remove all of the
parts on the laser cut sheets: K2, K4 (2off), K5
F2A (2off), F3, F4, F4A, F5, F5A F8A and F9.
2) Pin down one K1 so that the strip on it faces
upwards, then t and glue F6 and F7 in position
ensuring the strengtheners are facing rearwards.
Make sure that both formers are at right angles to
the fuselage side using a square. Now leave to set.
3) Glue the second fuselage side to the opposite
end of the formers, again making sure that all
is located square and true. Leave to set before
removing from the board.
4) Bring the nose together, tting the F1 and F2
assembly. Take care to make sure that the tabs
on the fuselage locate neatly into the slots in
F2 - it should appear to be at a slight downward
angle. Leave to set for a while then add parts
F2A each side.
5) Pinch rear of fuselage together and glue
ensuring that the ends meet uniformly and the
fuselage remains straight and true. Use the
gauge lines on the sheet/plan to help. Hold the
ends together with a clothes peg or similar until
the glue is set.
6) Fit all other formers and cross pieces top and
bottom - working from front to rear ensuring
that the fuselage remains square and true in all
directions. Take careful note as to how each former
sits in its slot, especially the ones at the nose.
7) Fit part K2 adjusting at the ends if required for a
strong and snug t.
8) Fit part K5 to the very rear of the fuselage
ensuring that its face sits ush to the top edges
of the sides.
9) Fit the 3.2mm wide strip ‘backbone’ between
F7 and F9.
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10) Fit strong 1.6mm square strip stringers between
F2 and F5 at the front and between F7 and F9 at
the rear, noting the bottom stringer each sides
butts up to F9.
11) Fit the cockpit nishers K4 each side, bevelling
the bottom edge to allow them to be angled
inwards, ush with the prole of F7.
12) Epoxy the rear tail wheel in place. Do not use
too much epoxy, a small amount is all that is
required, as it is heavy and excess may add too
much weight to the model. Set the fuselage
aside and complete the nose block.
THE NOSE BLOCK
1) Remove parts in the following quantities from
the laser cut sheets: 1 off each NB1-NB4, and 3
off parts NP1.
2) With the cross markings on part NB4 facing
outwards, laminate the parts NB1-NB4, aligning
the central hole. Also make sure that the proles
are evenly matched. Allow this nose block
assembly to dry, then set it aside.
3) Laminate all parts NP1 aligning the central hole,
making sure that the edges are all ush. Allow
this nose plug assembly to dry. Once dry, trial
t it to the square hole in the fuselage nose,
adjusting it to have an easy t. Cyano adhesive
can be run around the hole and the edges of the
part to harden the wood. BUT DO NOT glue
this plug to the fuselage.
4) Glue the nose plug to the nose block, ensuring
that it lines up with the cross markings on NB4
and the holes remain in line. Make sure that
any glue that squishes out between the parts is
removed, otherwise it will prevent the parts from
sitting together properly. Allow the completed
nose block to dry.
5) Glue a plastic nose bush into the hole in the
nose block using cyano adhesive. DON’T
ALLOW THE ADHESIVE TO GO INSIDE
THE BUSH.
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FINISHING THE FUSELAGE
1) Fit the nose block, BUT DO NOT GLUE IT IN
PLACE! Then sand it to match the fuselage to the
prole as shown on the plan. If you want to paint
the nose block it should be coated with full strength
dope and sanded to a smooth nish beforehand.
2) Sand the fuselage all over to remove the burnt
edges of the parts. Be careful not to over sand
and ruin the prole of the parts, especially to the
rear of the cockpit area where the canopy will t.
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THE WHEELS , UNDERCARRIAGE AND SPINNER
1) Identify and remove parts in the following
quantities from the laser cut sheets: 4 off WH1,
4 off WH2.
2) Sand the internal diameter of the WH1 parts to
remove the ‘tags’ and burnt edges using a piece
of sandpaper wrapped round a pencil or similar.
3) Laminate the parts cross grained as shown on
the plan to make 2 wheels, making sure all of the
parts stay concentric. Once they are set, round
the edges off as shown on the plan. If you want
to paint the wheels, they should be coated with
full strength dope and sanded to a smooth
nish beforehand.
4) Fit a plastic nose bush to each wheel using cyano
adhesive. DON’T ALLOW THE ADHESIVE
TO GO INSIDE THE BUSH.
5) Using wire cutters and pliers, make up the
undercarriage legs and tail wheel from the wire
provided. Make sure that you make two legs and
they are opposite hands.
6) Identify and remove 4 off parts LG1 from the
laser cut sheets.
7) In all four parts LG1, make a groove following the
line etched into them. This is best achieved using
the left over piece of wire from the undercarriage
legs or. failing that, an empty ball point pen
drawn along to simply ‘dent’ the wood.
8) Follow the instructions on the plan to make up
the two main undercarriage leg assemblies. If
you want to paint the leg assemblies, they should
be coated with full strength dope and sanded to
a smooth nish beforehand.
9) The wheels can then be added to the axles of the
legs and retained by simply bending up the wire,
or using the insulations from some thin electrical
ex held with a blob of glue. NB make sure that
the glue does not enter the wheel centre bushing
and that the wheel can rotate freely.
10) Identify and remove part TW1 on the laser cut
sheet. Glue to the centre of the tail wheel wire
with cyano. Allow it to dry then sand the wood
ush to the wire.
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