WATT AGE Sopwith Camel EP User manual

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Specifications:
●Wing Span: 38 Inches (Top & Bottom)
●Wing Area: 475 Square Inches
●Length: 25 Inches
●Weight RTF: 13 - 15 Ounces
●Wing Loading: 4 - 4.5 Ounces Per Square Foot
●Functions: Rudder, Elevator & Throttle
●Power: 370 Motor w/4.78:1 Gear Box & Propeller
●Radio Required: 3Ch or More Micro w/2 Micro Servos
●ESC Required: 5 Amp Micro
●Battery Required: 6C 800Mah 5/4AAA NiMH
INSTRUCTIONS FOR FINAL ASSEMBLY
The Wattage Sopwith Camel EP is distributed
exclusively by Global Hobby Distributors
18480 Bandilier Circle, Fountain Valley, CA 92708
All contents copyright © 2003, Global Hobby
Distributors Version V1.0 January 2003
Kit Product Number 128437
An Electric-Powered, Stand-Off Scale Slow-Flyer from:

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TABLE OF CONTENTS
This R/C airplane is not a toy! If misused or abused, it can cause serious bodily injury and/or damage to property. Fly only
in open areas and preferably at a dedicated R/C flying site. We suggest having a qualified instructor carefully inspect your
airplane before its first flight. Please carefully read and follow all instructions included with this airplane, your radio control
system and any other components purchased separately.
SAFETY WARNING
OUR GUARANTEE
Wattage guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the date of purchase. This does not cover any component
parts damaged by use, misuse or modification. In no case shall Wattage's liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit.
In that Wattage has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed for any damage resulting from
the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the act of using the final user-assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.
FOR YOUR INFORMATION
To make your modeling experience totally enjoyable, we recommend that you get experienced, knowledgeable help with assembly and
during your first flights. Your local hobby shop has information about flying clubs in your area whose membership includes qualified
instructors. If there is no hobby shop in your area, we recommend that you contact the AMA at the address below. They will be able to
help you locate a flying field near you.
Academy of Model Aeronautics
5151 East Memorial Drive
Muncie IN 47302-9252
[phone]
www.modelaircraft.org
Safety Warning ...................................................................................... 2
Introduction ............................................................................................ 3
Section 1: Our Recommendations .......................................... 4
Section 2: Tools and Supplies Required ................................ 5
Section 3: Kit Contents ........................................................... 6
Section 4: Fuselage Assembly ............................................... 7
Section 5: Gear Box & Cowling Installation ........................... 9
Section 6: Landing Gear Installation .................................... 12
Section 7: Stabilizer Installation ............................................ 14
Section 8: Control Systems Installation ................................ 18
Section 9: Pilot & Machine Gun Installation ......................... 22
Section 10: Top & Bottom Wing Assembly ........................... 23
Section 11: Top & Bottom Wing Installation ......................... 26
Section 12: Final Assembly ................................................... 32
Section 13: Balancing the Sopwith Camel EP ..................... 34
Section 14: Control Throws ................................................... 34
Section 15: Preflight Check & Safety ................................... 35
Section 16: Flying the Sopwith Camel EP ............................ 36
Section 17: Replacement Parts ............................................ 37
Full-Size Cabane Strut & Wing Strut Drawings .................................. 38
Product Evaluation Sheet ................................................................... 39

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This instruction manual is designed to guide you through the entire final assembly process of your new airplane in the
least amount of time possible. Along the way you'll learn how to properly assemble your new airplane and also learn
tips that will help you in the future. We have listed some of our recommendations below. Please read through them
before beginning assembly.
●Please read through each step before beginning
assembly. You should find the layout very complete
and straightforward. Our goal is to guide you through
assembly without any of the headaches and hassles
that you might expect.
●There are check boxes next to each step. After
you complete a step, check off the box. This will help
prevent you from losing your place.
●Cover your work table with brown paper or a soft
cloth, both to protect the table and to protect the parts.
●Keep a couple of small bowls or jars handy to put
the small parts in after you open the accessory bags.
●We're all excited to get a new airplane in the air, but
take your time. This will ensure you build a straight,
strong and great flying airplane.
●If you come across this symbol ☞, it means that
this is an important point or an assembly hint.
If you should find a part missing or damaged, or have any questions about assembly, please
contact us at the address below:
Global Services
18480 Bandilier Circle
Fountain Valley CA 92708
Phone: [phone] Fax: [phone] Email: [e-mail]
INTRODUCTION
Thank you for purchasing the new Wattage Sopwith Camel EP. Before completing the final assembly of your
new airplane, please carefully read through this instruction manual in its entirety. Doing so will ensure your
success the first time around!
Wattage Sopwith Camel EP Special Features:
●Foam Wings, Fuselage & Stabilizer for Light Weight & Durability
●Extremely Low Wing Loading for Very Slow Flight
●Powerful Motor for the Best Maneuverability
●Top & Bottom Wings are Removable and are Reinforced with Fiberglass Spars
●Includes Wattage 370 Motor w/4.78:1 Gear Box & 10 x 5 Nylon Propeller
●Includes Molded Machine Guns, Pilot Bust and Decal Set
●Includes All Hardware - Pushrods, Landing Gear, Clevises, Wheels, Etc.
●Quick, Easy Assembly. This Instruction Manual Includes Over 70 Digital Photos to Guide You
To serve your needs better, please include your email address with any correspondence you send to us. Your email
address will be added to our Customer Service Database so you will automatically receive free updates and tech
notices for your particular product. You will also receive repair status updates (if applicable) and other important
information about your product as it becomes available.
IMPORTANT INFORMATION ABOUT YOUR EMAIL ADDRESS
Global Hobby Distributors will not disclose the information it collects to outside parties. Global Hobby Distributors does not sell,
trade, or rent your personal information to others . Your privacy is important to us.
Visit Our Website
http://globalservices.globalhobby.com

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This section describes our recommendations to help you in deciding which types of accessories to purchase for
your new Sopwith Camel EP. Please read through this entire section very carefully.
IMPORTANT When choosing accessories for your Sopwith Camel EP, such as servos, ESC, receiver and other
related accessories, it's very important to take the weight of these items into consideration. Remember, the lighter the
overall weight of the finished airplane, the better the airplane will fly.
SECTION 1: OUR RECOMMENDATIONS
What Servos Do I Use?
The servos you use should be the lightest available, yet still have an adequate amount of torque. We suggest using servos
that weigh no more than 0.22 ounces and have a torque rating of no less than 7.0 ounces per square inch. Cirrus CS-6.2
servos or Hitec HS-50 servos would be a perfect choice.
What Flight Battery Do I Use?
The ideal flight battery is one that provides good performance while keeping the overall weight of the airplane to a
minimum. The lighter the airplane is, the better it's going to perform. The 370 motor, 4.78:1 gear box and 10 inch propeller
are matched to the Sopwith Camel to provide good power and low current draw. When combined with a 6 cell flight battery,
this power system only draws about 4 - 5 amps.
We suggest using a couple of different flight batteries for best performance. You can choose either a 6 cell 270Mah NiCD
flight battery or a 6 cell 800Mah 5/4AAA NiMH flight battery. The 270Mah NiCD flight battery will provide you with about 5
minutes of flight with good power. The 800Mah NiMH flight battery will still provide good power, but your flight times will be
increased to about 10 minutes. So, for the best overall flight performance and flight time, we suggest using the 6 cell
800Mah 5/4AAA NiMH flight battery.
Important Note: The power system included with your Sopwith Camel EP is designed to deliver good flight
performance using 6 cell flight batteries. This combination keeps the amp draw around 4 - 5 amps. If you use more
than 6 cells, the amp draw will increase, so you will need to use a larger ESC capable of handling more than 5 amps.
What Electronic Speed Control Do I Use?
The ESC you choose should be capable of handling no less than 5 amps continuous current. Again, lighter is better. Your
ESC should weigh no more than .85 ounces including the wiring and switch. We suggest using the Wattage IC-5A Micro
electronic speed control. This ESC is very lightweight and can handle 5 amps continuous current and 12 amps surge current.
What Receiver Do I Use?
The receiver should be as light as possible, preferably 1/2oz. or less. Most four-channel micro receivers would be a good
choice. We personally suggest using either the Cirrus MRX-4 Micro receiver or the Hitec Feather Micro receiver. If you
plan on using the larger, heavier Hitec 555 Micro receiver, we suggest removing the case to reduce the receiver's overall
weight. If you do remove the case from your receiver we strongly suggest wrapping the receiver with heat-shrink material
to protect the internal components.
Important Note: Please be aware that the Cirrus MRX-4 Micro receiver and the Hitec Feather Micro receiver have
a usable range of approximately 1000 feet.
Important Note: If you use the Hitec Focus III AM radio system, you can use the included receiver, but we suggest
removing the receiver's case to reduce its overall size and weight.

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Here's a List of What We Used to Finish Our Sopwith Camel EP:
IMPORTANT The part number listed for the Cirrus servos is compatible with all radio control systems. This servo uses a
universal connector. The part number listed for the Cirrus MRX-4 receiver is compatible with Hitec and Futaba radio control
systems. This receiver is also available for JR and Airtronics radio control systems. The Wattage IC-5A Micro ESC is compatible
with Futaba, JR, Hitec, Airtronics-Z and others.
When you purchase the Cirrus MRX-4 receiver, you must also purchase a Hitec brand crystal compatible with the receiver. The
crystal must also be on the same frequency as your transmitter. Note that the MRX-4 receiver uses a single conversion FM
Hitec crystal.
QTY. 1 443526 Cirrus MRX-4 Micro Receiver (Neg. Shift, Hitec/Futaba)
Hitec Single Conversion FM RX Crystal
QTY. 2 444035 Cirrus CS-6.2 Micro Servos
QTY. 1 128482 Wattage IC-5A Micro ESC
QTY. 1 128536 Wattage 6 Cell 800Mah 5/4AAA NiMH Flight Battery
QTY. 1 130108 Wattage PF-12 AC/DC Park Flyer Charger
3M 3/4" Wide Clear Plastic Tape - Available at Most Hardware Stores
OUR RECOMMENDATIONS, CONTINUED....
❑Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy # 887560
❑Kwik Bond Thin C/A # 887500
❑Kwik Bond Thick C/A # 887510
❑# 0 Phillips Head Screwdriver
❑# 1 Phillips Head Screwdriver
❑Magnum Z-Bend Pliers # 237473
❑Wire Cutters
❑Needle Nose Pliers
❑Adjustable Wrench
❑Excel Modeling Knife # 692801
❑Scissors
❑Electric or Hand Drill
❑Assorted Drill Bits
❑Ruler
❑Pencil
❑220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block
❑Masking Tape
❑Builder's Triangle
❑Paper Towels
❑Rubbing Alcohol
❑NHP Epoxy Mixing Sticks # 864204
❑NHP Epoxy Mixing Cups # 864205
❑Spool of Nylon Thread
❑K&S 30 Watt Soldering Iron # 598120*
❑Solder*
❑Heat-Shrink Tubing (Assorted Sizes)*
❑Small & Medium Paint Brushes**
❑Acrylic Paint (Assorted Colors)**
SECTION 2: TOOLS AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED
The tools and supplies listed below will be necessary to finish the assembly of your Sopwith Camel EP. We suggest having
these items on hand before beginning assembly.
*These items are optional and may not be needed depending on the type of connectors that are installed on your Electronic
Speed Control and flight battery.
** These paint brushes and acrylic paint can be used to paint the pilot bust, machine guns and wing struts for a more realistic look.

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We have organized the parts as they come out of the box for easier identification during assembly. Before you begin
assembly, group the parts as we list them below. This will ensure that you have all of the parts before you begin assembly
and it will also help you become familiar with each part.
AIRFRAME ASSEMBLIES
❑(1) Fuselage Halves (Top & Bottom)
❑(2) Right & Left Wing Panels (Top & Bottom)
❑(1) Horizontal Stabilizer w/Elevator
❑(1) Vertical Stabilizer w/Rudder
SECTION 3: KIT CONTENTS
POWER SYSTEM ASSEMBLIES
❑(1) 370 Motor w/Gear Box
❑(1) Nylon Propeller
❑(1) M3 Flat Washer
❑(2) M3 Hex Nuts
❑(3) M3 x 12 Wood Screws
MISCELLANEOUS WING & STABILIZER PARTS
❑(4) Fiberglass Dowels
❑(2) Aluminum Tubes (1 Straight, 1 Bent)
❑(1) M3 x 25 Wood Screw
❑(1) Prebent Elevator Joiner Wire
❑(1) Elevator Reinforcement Board - 2 Parts
Global Services
18480 Bandilier Circle
Fountain Valley CA 92708
Phone: [phone] Fax: [phone] Email: [e-mail]
On the Web
http://globalservices.globalhobby.com
LANDING GEAR ASSEMBLIES
❑(1) Prebent Main Landing Gear Wire
❑(2) Plastic Spoked Wheels
❑(2) Plastic Wheel Retainers
❑(2) M3 Flat Washers
❑(2) M3 x 12 Wood Screws
CONTROL SYSTEM ASSEMBLIES
❑(2) 15-3/4" Threaded Wires
❑(2) Nylon Control Horns
❑(2) Nylon Control Horn Backplates
❑(2) Nylon Clevises
If you find any parts missing or damaged, please contact us at:
MISCELLANEOUS FUSELAGE PARTS
❑(1) Plastic Cowling
❑(1) Cowl Mounting Board - 2 Parts
❑(2) M2 x 5 Wood Screws
❑(2) Molded Machine Guns
❑(1) Molded Pilot Bust
❑(1) Double-Sided Foam Tape
❑(1) Velcro®Strip
❑(1) Decal Set
WING STRUT ASSEMBLIES
❑(2) Plywood Die-Cut Sheets
❑(4) Prebent Cabane Strut Wires
❑(4) Nylon Cabane Strut Mounts
❑(12) M2 x 8 Wood Screws
WARNING The Sopwith Camel EP is constructed of foam. It is very important that you use no solvents, Cyanoacrylate (C/A) glue,
or paint that can damage foam. If any of these chemicals comes in contact with the foam parts, the parts will be destroyed and will
not be covered under warranty. Use only epoxy where glue is required. If you decide to add painted details to the airplane, use
acrylic-based paints and always test the paint on a scrap piece first.
We stock a complete line of replacement parts for your Wattage Sopwith Camel EP.
Please refer to page # 37 for more details and a replacement parts list.
☞

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❑Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy
❑Excel Modeling Knife
❑Ruler
❑Pencil
❑220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block
YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:
❑(1) Fuselage Halves (Top & Bottom)
SECTION 4: FUSELAGE ASSEMBLY
❑(1) Plywood Die-Cut Sheet
YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:
❑Paper Towels
❑Rubbing Alcohol
❑NHP Epoxy Mixing Sticks
❑NHP Epoxy Mixing Cups
Step 1: Installing the Wing-Screw Plate
❑Using a modeling knife, carefully cut out the wing saddle
from the bottom of the bottom fuselage half.
☞It's easiest to make the cutout from the inside of the
fuselage, following the molded outline, while cutting with a
very sharp modeling knife.
❑Carefully punch out the wing-screw plate from the die-cut
plywood sheet.
❑Using 220 grit sandpaper with a sanding block, sand the
edges of the plate smooth and straight.
❑Test-fit the wing-screw plate into the bottom half of the
fuselage. To align it properly, the front edge of the plate should
be flush with the edge of the wing saddle and the plate should
be centered between the fuselage sides.
❑When satisfied with the fit, glue the wing-screw plate into
place using a generous amount of 5 minute epoxy.

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Step 2: Joining the Fuselage Halves
❑Using a ruler and pencil, carefully measure and draw three
marks on each side of the top fuselage half. The first mark
should be located 1-1/2" in front of the back of the fuselage,
the second mark should be 2-1/8" in front of the back of the
fuselage, and the third mark should be 3-1/8" in front of the
back of the fuselage.
☞Draw the marks on the top of both sides of the fuselage,
as shown. Also, make sure to do this on the top fuselage half,
not the bottom fuselage half.
❑Using a modeling knife, carefully cut a 5/16" deep slot in
each side of the fuselage top half, using the marks you drew
as a guide.
☞These slots are the elevator and rudder pushrod exit slots.
The front of each slot is cut at an angle so that the pushrods
can exit the fuselage without binding.
❑Using 220 grit sandpaper with a sanding block, lightly
sand the gluing surfaces on each fuselage half smooth and
straight. If any paint is oversprayed onto the gluing surfaces,
be sure to sand it away for a stronger glue joint.
❑Test-fit the fuselage halves together. When aligned
properly, the fuselage halves should fit together with few or
no gaps between the two, and the outside edges of each half
should line up evenly.
☞If the fuselage halves don't fit together properly, carefully
remove any irregularities in the foam using 220 grit sandpaper
with a sanding block.
❑Mix a generous amount of 5 minute epoxy and apply a thin layer to the gluing surfaces on both fuselage halves.

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❑Fit the fuselage halves back together and realign them. Remove any excess epoxy using a paper towel and rubbing
alcohol, and hold the fuselage halves together until the epoxy sets up.
Important Tip: We don't suggest using pieces of masking tape to hold the fuselage halves together, because the
paint will be damaged when you remove the tape. We just carefully (and patiently) held the two halves together by
hand until the epoxy set up.
❑Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy
❑# 0 Phillips Head Screwdriver
❑# 1 Phillips Head Screwdriver
❑Excel Modeling Knife
❑Scissors
❑Electric or Hand Drill
❑1/16" Drill Bit
❑Ruler
YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:
❑(1) 370 Motor w/Gear Box
❑(3) M3 x 12 Wood Screws
❑(1) Plywood Die-Cut Sheet
❑(1) Plastic Cowling
SECTION 5: GEAR BOX & COWLING INSTALLATION
❑(1) Cowl Mounting Board - 2 Parts
❑(2) M2 x 5 Wood Screws
❑(1) Velcro®Strip
YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:
❑Pencil
❑220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block
❑Builder's Triangle
❑Paper Towels
❑Rubbing Alcohol
❑NHP Epoxy Mixing Sticks
❑NHP Epoxy Mixing Cups
Step 1: Installing the Plywood Motor Plate
❑Using 220 grit sandpaper with a sanding block, lightly
sand the front of the fuselage smooth and straight.
❑Using a builder's triangle and a pencil, carefully draw a
vertical centerline on the front of the fuselage.
☞Use the horizontal seam line between the two fuselage
halves as your reference point.
❑Carefully punch out the motor plate from the die-cut
plywood sheet.
❑Using 220 grit sandpaper with a sanding block, sand the
edges of the plate smooth.
☞Punch the die-cut circle out of the center of the motor
plate, too.

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❑Test-fit the motor plate onto the front of the fuselage. To
align it properly, the two notches in the motor plate should be
even with the seam between the two fuselage halves and the
motor plate should be centered over the vertical centerline
you drew previously.
IMPORTANT The rounded portion of the motor plate should
be toward the bottom of the fuselage, as shown.
❑When satisfied with the fit and alignment, glue the motor plate into place using a generous amount of 5 minute epoxy.
Remove any excess epoxy using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol, and hold the motor plate in place until the epoxy sets up.
Step 2: Installing the Gear Box Assembly
❑Using a modeling knife, cut away and remove the foam from inside the die-cut hole in the motor plate.
☞This hole should be cut completely through the front of the fuselage. The motor wires from the gear box assembly
must slide through it.
❑Slide the motor wires into the hole in the front of the
fuselage and push the gear box assembly up against the
motor plate.
❑Position the gear box assembly onto the motor plate. It
should be centered between the sides of the motor plate, and
the mounting flange on the bottom of the gear box should be
even with the top edge of the motor plate.
IMPORTANT As shown in the photo, the gear box is mounted
upside down.
❑When satisfied with the alignment, use a pencil to mark the locations of the three mounting holes onto the motor plate.
❑Remove the gear box assembly and set it aside. Using a drill with a 1/16" diameter drill bit, drill pilot holes through the
motor plate at each of the three marks you drew.
☞Drilling pilot holes will make it easier to install the wood screws.
❑Set the gear box assembly back into place and realign it.
❑Install and tighten the three M3 x 12 wood screws to hold
the gear box assembly securely to the fuselage.
☞Don't overtighten the wood screws or you might strip the
motor plate.

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❑Using a pair of scissors, cut a 2" long piece of Velcro®
from the strip of Velcro®provided.
❑Remove the protective backing from the piece of Velcro®
and adhere it to the front of the fuselage, as shown.
☞Notice that the piece of Velcro®is applied to the bottom
section of the fuselage.
❑Using a modeling knife, cut a 5/16" diameter hole through
the front of the fuselage, next to the strip of Velcro®.
IMPORTANT The Velcro®strip is what holds your flight
battery in place. The hole is cut through the fuselage for your
ESC battery lead to pass through so it can be plugged into
your flight battery.
Step 3: Installing the Cowling
❑Apply one piece of prepainted cowl mounting board to
each side of the fuselage. The front edge of each piece
should be even with the front edge of the fuselage and both
pieces should be centered over the seam line between the
two fuselage halves.
☞Rub the pieces of mounting board down firmly to adhere
them securely into place.
❑Using a pair of scissors, carefully cut out the back of
the cowling along its base, making sure to remove the
molded radius.
❑Using 220 grit sandpaper with a sanding block, sand the
back edge of the cowling smooth and straight.
❑Using a pair of scissors, cut out the gear box clearance
hole in the center of the cowling.

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❑Using a pair of scissors, carefully cut out the flight battery
access hole in the bottom of the cowling.
❑Using 220 grit sandpaper, lightly sand the edges of the
access hole smooth and straight.
IMPORTANT Before installing the cowling in the next
procedure, apply the engine decal to the front of the cowling.
❑Slide the cowling over the gear box assembly and onto the fuselage.
❑Position the cowling so that the hole in the center of the cowling is centered around the gear box and the edges of the
flight battery access hole in the bottom of the cowling are lined up with the bottom of the fuselage.
❑When satisfied with the alignment, push the cowling back
so that it overlaps the front of the fuselage about 1/4", then
install and tighten the two M2 x 5 wood screws to hold the
cowling securely in place.
☞To make it easier to install the screws, use the tip of your
modeling knife to make small pilot holes through the cowling
and into the mounting board.
❑Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy
❑# 1 Phillips Head Screwdriver
❑Needle Nose Pliers
❑Excel Modeling Knife
❑Electric or Hand Drill
❑1/16" Drill Bit
YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:
❑(1) Prebent Main Landing Gear Wire
❑(2) Plastic Spoked Wheels
❑(2) Plastic Wheel Retainers
SECTION 6: LANDING GEAR INSTALLATION
❑(2) M3 Flat Washers
❑(2) M3 x 12 Wood Screws
❑(1) Plywood Die-Cut Sheet
YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:
❑Pencil
❑220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block
❑Paper Towels
❑Rubbing Alcohol
❑NHP Epoxy Mixing Sticks
❑NHP Epoxy Mixing Cups
Step 1: Installing the Main Landing Gear Wire
❑Carefully punch out the 9/16" x 2-3/4" landing gear mounting plate from the die-cut plywood sheet.
❑Using 220 grit sandpaper with a sanding block, sand the edges of the plate smooth and straight.

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❑Position the plywood landing gear mounting plate onto
the bottom of the fuselage. The front edge of the plate should
be 7/8" behind the front of the fuselage and the ends of the
plate should be equal distance from the sides of the fuselage.
❑When satisfied with the fit, glue the mounting plate into place using a generous amount of 5 minute epoxy. Remove
any excess epoxy using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol, and hold the mounting plate in place until the epoxy sets up.
❑Set the landing gear wire onto the mounting plate and align it. When aligned properly, the front of the two U-shaped
bends should be even with the front edge of the mounting plate and the wire should be centered from side-to-side.
❑When satisfied with the alignment, carefully drill two 1/16"
diameter pilot holes through the mounting plate, using the
U-shaped bends in the landing gear wire to locate the positions
of the holes.
❑Secure the landing gear wire to the mounting plate using
two M3 x 12 wood screws and two M3 flat washers.
❑Carefully apply the decals to the wheels, then slide one wheel onto each of the two wire axles. Using needle nose
pliers, carefully squeeze one plastic wheel retainer onto each of the axles, to secure the wheels into place.
☞Double-check that the wheels spin without binding. If either wheel does bind, carefully pull the nylon wheel retainer
just far enough away from the wheel to prevent the binding.
Step 2: Installing the Tail Skid
❑Carefully punch out the tail skid from the die-cut plywood
sheet.
❑Using 220 grit sandpaper with a sanding block, sand the
edges of the tail skid smooth.
Important Tip: It's normal for the landing gear wire to extend back into the wing saddle. This part of the landing gear
wire holds the front of the wing in position.

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❑Using a modeling knife, carefully cut a 1/8" deep slot in
the bottom, back of the fuselage, the same dimension as the
base of the plywood tail skid.
☞Locate the back edge of the notch 1/4" in front of the
back of the fuselage and make sure that the notch is centered
between the fuselage sides.
❑Test-fit and glue the plywood tail skid into the slot using
a generous amount of 5 minute epoxy. Remove any excess
epoxy using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol, and hold the
tail skid in place until the epoxy sets up.
☞Notice the orientation that the tail skid is installed in. Make
sure you don't install it backwards.
❑Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy
❑Excel Modeling Knife
❑Scissors
❑Ruler
❑Pencil
❑220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block
YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:
❑(1) Horizontal Stabilizer w/Elevator
❑(1) Vertical Stabilizer w/Rudder
❑(1) Prebent Elevator Joiner Wire
SECTION 7: STABILIZER INSTALLATION
❑(1) Elevator Reinforcement Board - 2 Parts
❑(1) Decal Set
YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:
❑Builder's Triangle
❑Paper Towels
❑Rubbing Alcohol
❑NHP Epoxy Mixing Sticks
❑NHP Epoxy Mixing Cups
Step 1: Installing the Elevator Joiner Wire
❑Carefully remove the die-cut horizontal stabilizer and elevator from the foam sheet.
❑Using 220 grit sandpaper with a sanding block, carefully sand the edges of the stabilizer and elevator smooth
and straight.

15
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❑Using 220 grit sandpaper with a sanding block, carefully
sand a shallow 45º bevel in the bottom of the leading edge of
the elevator.
❑Place the prebent elevator joiner wire onto the bottom of
the elevator.
❑Center the wire over the middle of the elevator, making
sure that the front of the wire is even with the bevel in the
leading edge.
❑When satisfied with the alignment, push the wire down
firmly to make an impression of the wire in the foam.
❑Remove the elevator joiner wire and set it aside.
❑Using a ruler and a modeling knife, carefully cut a very
shallow groove in the elevator using the impression left in the
foam as a guide.
☞Don't cut too deeply. You don't want to cut through the
top of the elevator.
❑Test-fit the joiner wire into the groove. When pushed into place, it should be flush with the bottom of the elevator and
fit firmly in the groove.
❑Mix a small quantity of 5 minute epoxy and carefully glue the joiner wire into place. Remove any excess epoxy using
a paper towel and rubbing alcohol, and hold the elevator flat and the leading edge straight, until the epoxy sets up.
❑After the epoxy has set up, carefully apply one piece of
elevator reinforcement board over each end of the elevator
joiner wire.
IMPORTANT Make sure that each piece covers the entire
end of the joiner wire.

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Step 2: Hinging the Elevator
❑Turn the elevator right side up and push the leading edge
up against the trailing edge of the stabilizer.
❑With the ends of the elevator even with the ends of the
stabilizer and with no gaps in the hinge line, hinge the elevator
to the stabilizer using a strip of clear plastic tape.
☞Apply the tape to the top of the parts, making sure that
there are no gaps between the leading edge of the elevator
and the trailing edge of the stabilizer.
❑Using a pair of scissors, trim the ends of the tape flush with the ends of the stabilizer and cut away the tape that
overhangs the middle of the cutout in the elevator.
Step 3: Mounting the Horizontal Stabilizer Assembly
❑Test-fit the horizontal stabilizer into position. When
aligned properly, the notch in the front of the stabilizer should
fit firmly up against, and evenly around, the molded fairing on
the top of the fuselage, and the cutout in the elevator should
be centered from side-to-side with the back of the fuselage.
IMPORTANT The stabilizer should be pushed forward
completely, so that the elevator hinge line is even with the
back edge of the fuselage.
❑When satisfied with the alignment, glue the stabilizer assembly into place using a generous amount of 5 minute epoxy.
Remove any excess epoxy using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol, and hold the stabilizer assembly in place until the
epoxy sets up.
Step 4: Hinging the Rudder
❑Using 220 grit sandpaper with a sanding block, carefully
sand a shallow 45º bevel in one side of the leading edge of
the rudder.
❑Carefully remove the die-cut vertical stabilizer and rudder from the foam sheet.
❑Using 220 grit sandpaper with a sanding block, carefully sand the edges of the stabilizer and rudder smooth and
straight.

17
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❑Using the tip of your modeling knife, punch out the small die-cut square in the leading edge of the rudder.
❑Using a pair of scissors, cut out the right- and left-side rudder decals from the decal sheet.
❑Carefully apply one decal to each side of the rudder,
making sure to line up the front edge of each decal with the
leading edge of the rudder. This will ensure that the decals
line up properly.
❑Using a pair of scissors, trim the excess flush with the
edges of the rudder.
❑Using a modeling knife, cut away the decal from over each side of the die-cut square in the leading edge of the rudder.
❑Hinge the rudder to the vertical stabilizer using the same
techniques you used to hinge the elevator to the horizontal
stabilizer.
IMPORTANT Make sure that the top of the rudder is even
with the top of the stabilizer.
Step 5: Mounting the Vertical Stabilizer Assembly
❑Test-fit the vertical stabilizer into place. When aligned
properly, the tab at the front of the vertical stabilizer should fit
into the notch in the front of the horizontal stabilizer, and the
back edge of the vertical stabilizer should be centered with
the back of the fuselage.
IMPORTANT Use a builder's triangle to align the vertical
stabilizer 90º to the horizontal stabilizer, as shown.
❑When satisfied with the alignment, glue the vertical stabilizer into place using a generous amount of 5 minute epoxy.
Remove any excess epoxy using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol, and hold the stabilizer in place until the epoxy sets up.
IMPORTANT While the epoxy is setting up, we suggest holding the stabilizer in place using your builder's triangle, to
ensure that it stays aligned 90º to the horizontal stabilizer.

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❑# 0 Phillips Head Screwdriver
❑Magnum Z-Bend Pliers
❑Wire Cutters
❑Needle Nose Pliers
❑Excel Modeling Knife
YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:
❑(2) 15-3/4" Threaded Wires
❑(2) Nylon Control Horns
❑(2) Nylon Control Horn Backplates
SECTION 8: CONTROL SYSTEMS INSTALLATION
❑(2) Nylon Clevises
❑(1) Double-Sided Foam Tape
YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:
❑Scissors
❑Electric or Hand Drill
❑1/16" Drill Bit
❑Ruler
❑Pencil
Step 1: Installing the Elevator Pushrod Assembly
❑Using a pair of scissors, cut out a piece of double-sided
foam tape to the same dimension as the side of your servo.
❑Remove the protective backing from one side of the tape
and firmly apply the tape to the side of the servo.
❑Test-fit your elevator servo into place on the fuselage side.
When aligned properly, the bottom of the servo should be even
with the seam line between the two fuselage halves and the
servo output shaft should be 1-1/8" in front of the back edge
of the wing saddle.
IMPORTANT The servo output shaft should be toward the
front of the fuselage, as shown. This will ensure that the servo
lead will reach far enough forward to be plugged into the
receiver when it is installed later.
Important Tip: Before installing your elevator servo in the next few procedures, check to see which side of the
fuselage the die-cut hole in the leading edge of the elevator is located on. When you install your elevator servo, you
want to install it onto the opposite side of the fuselage as the die-cut hole. This will prevent the elevator pushrod wire
from binding. In our model, the die-cut hole is on the right side of the fuselage, so we installed the elevator servo on
the left side of the fuselage.
❑When satisfied with the alignment, remove the remaining piece of protective backing from the double-sided tape and
firmly adhere the servo to the fuselage side.

19
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❑Using the tip of your modeling knife, carefully remove the die-cut square from the leading edge of the elevator.
❑Push one control horn through the die-cut hole in the
elevator, making sure that the tip of the control horn is toward
the bottom of the elevator.
❑Making sure that the flat portion of the backplate faces
away from the elevator, push the backplate over the end of
the control horn until you hear it "click" firmly into place.
❑Plug the elevator servo lead into its proper slot in your receiver. Plug the ESC lead into the proper slot in your receiver
and plug the flight battery into your ESC. Turn on your radio system and center the servo using the elevator trim lever on
your transmitter.
❑Thread one nylon clevis onto one 15-3/4" long threaded pushrod wire.
☞Thread the clevis on far enough to leave room for adjustments later.
❑Slide the plain end of the pushrod wire into the pushrod
exit slot, then carefully snap the clevis into the elevator
control horn.
IMPORTANT Make sure that the clevis snaps completely
down into the control horn.
❑Place a "single arm" servo horn onto the elevator servo, making sure that the servo horn is centered and points
toward the middle of the fuselage. The arm should have at least two holes in it.
❑With both the servo horn and the elevator centered, use
a pencil to draw a mark on the pushrod wire where it crosses
the hole that is 1/4" out from the center of the servo horn.
❑Using Magnum Z-Bend Pliers, make a Z-Bend in the pushrod wire at the mark you drew and use wire cutters to
remove the excess wire.
Important Tip: It's easier to make the Z-Bend if you remove the pushrod wire first.

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❑Remove the servo horn. Using a 1/16" drill bit, enlarge the hole in the servo arm that is 1/4" out from the center of the
servo horn.
❑Attach the servo horn to the Z-Bend, then attach the servo
horn to the servo, making sure it's centered.
❑Carefully install and tighten the servo horn retaining screw,
provided with your servo, to secure the servo horn into place.
❑With the servo horn centered, double-check that the elevator is still centered. If it is not centered, remove the clevis
and readjust it until the elevator is centered. When satisfied with the alignment, unplug and turn off your radio system.
Step 2: Installing the Rudder Pushrod Assembly
Important Tip: The rudder servo and pushrod assembly are installed using the same exact techniques as installing
the elevator servo and pushrod assembly.
❑Install your rudder servo to the opposite side of the
fuselage from the elevator servo, using a piece of double-
sided foam tape.
☞Remember, the servo output shaft should face toward
the front of the fuselage and the bottom of the servo should
be even with the seam line between the two fuselage halves.
❑Install the rudder control horn to the rudder, making sure that the end of the control horn is toward the opposite side of
the rudder from the elevator control horn. Make sure that when you install the control horn backplate, it snaps firmly into place.
❑Thread the remaining clevis onto the remaining 15-3/4"
long threaded pushrod wire.
❑Slide the plain end of the pushrod wire into the fuselage
through the pushrod exit slot, then snap the clevis into the
rudder control horn, making sure that it snaps completely down
into place.
Important Tip: So that the pushrod will line up better where it passes through the pushrod exit slot, we angled the
control horn down slightly toward the bottom of the rudder.