Connoisseur Models train User manual

Parts Required To Complete
3 Sets 5’ 3”, 16 Spoke Driving Wheel (Slater’s No 7863)
3 Sets 4’ 3”, 12 Spoke Tender Wheels (Slater’s No 7851)
Plunger Pickups if desired (Slater’s No 7157)
Available From Slater’s, Temple Road, Matlock Bath,
Matlock, Derbyshire, DE4 3PG, Tel [phone].
Mashima 1833 Motor and 40/1 Gear Set (Connoisseur)
CONNOISSEUR MODELS 0 GAUGE
LMS FOWLER 4F FREIGHT ENGINE
Connoisseur Models, 33 Grampian Rd, Penfields, Stourbridge, DY8 4UE, Tel [phone]

LMS FOWLER 4F KIT
The LMS 4F class numbered 772 examples. The first were
right hand drive engines built by the Midland Railway the
LMS continued construction but soon converted to building
left hand drive engines as a group standard. This kit is
intended to represent a typical left hand drive locomotive
constructed in the main batch between 1924 and 1928. As
with any locomotive class built in such large numbers there
was a great deal of detail variations between individual
locomotives. If a model of a particular engine is required it is
expected that the modeller will carry out prototype research
to provide photographs and determine exact details. A few
detail alternatives are included in the kit but the kit is not
intended to comprehensively cover all variations of the class.
However the kit should provide a very satisfactory base on
which to carry out modifications.
If like me the modeller just requires a locomotive that
captures the flavour of a typical 4F then the illustrations of my
models contained in these instructions should provide
sufficient information to achieve this.
I originally designed the etchings for this kit for ACME
models back in the days when money was scarce and I had
to supplement my income by doing occasional kit designs for
other people. When ACME no longer wanted to continue
producing the 4F I purchased the tooling from them and
added it to my range. As I was working to their specification a
few areas of the kit design are slightly different from my
normal practice, for example I would normally separate the
chassis and rods onto a nickel silver sheet. These slight
differences in design will probably only be apparent to
modellers who have built a number of my kits as this kit
builds into a very sound and detailed model.
BODY ASSEMBLY
Parts are numbered in a logical assembly order. The slots
and tabs don't give accurate location, they are only there to
help position parts. Tack solder a part into place then adjust
the next part to match. Solder solid only when happy with the
assembly. I have tried to mark the etchings and provide
location slots so that the positioning of parts is obvious
without the need to constantly refer to complex exploded
drawings. If you are a little uncertain about the positioning of
a component from reading through the instructions don't
worry as this should become obvious as construction
progresses and most parts if offered up to the assembly will
only fit into the correct place.
1. Take the footplate (part 1) determine the top side and
then fold the rear drag beam downwards through 90°. Take
the valances (parts 2) emboss the bolt heads at the front end
and then solder into the half etched grooves on the underside
of the footplate.
PAGE 2
3
2
1
Fold down
dragbeam 90° Emboss bolt heads
Emboss bolt heads on
buffer beam (part 3) and fold
side strips through 90°.
Then solder buffer beam
into place hard against the
valance ends. I would now
recommend soldering on the
chassis fixing nuts. 3
2
1
PAGE 27

2. Take the cab front (part 4) and
emboss bolt heads. Take the cab
window beading for the centre two
windows (parts 5) and solder into half
etched rebates. On the prototype loco
only the centre windows had raised
beading, the outer two oval windows
had a recessed beading and the half
etch represents this well. Now solder
the cab front to the footplate ensuring
that it is positioned centrally (line up
etched centre line marks) and that it is
upright. If you fold up the back splasher
sides these will also help to provide a
positive location for the cab front.
Take the cab sides (parts 6) and fold
the top reinforcing strip through 180°
and solder on the inside face. Solder
the cab side beading (parts 7) to the
cab side using the etched grooves to
aid location. Take the cab opening
beading (parts 8) roughly form to shape
and solder into place with the etched
groove on the beading locating into the
cab opening. You may also wish to fit
the cab side grab handrails at this point.
Now solder the cab sides to the
footplate and cab front. There is an
etched rebate on the inside front edge
of the cab side to help locate against
the cab front and give a crisp square
corner.
5
4
8
7
6
Handrail from 0.7mm wire
Spot solder to footplate
9
12
10
11
3. Take the cab floor (part 9) and
fold the back edge. Fit into place
between the cab sides locating the tabs
at the front edge into the slots in the cab
front. Fold up the left hand cab box (part
10) and solder into the left hand side of
the cab hard against the cab side and
front. Fold up the right hand cab box
(part 11) and solder into place again
hard against the cab side and front.
Fit the rear cab handrails made from
0.7mm brass wire. The wire is threaded
through the hole in the end of the cab
opening beading and the wire trimmed
to length so that it’s a snug fit
underneath the top of the cab cut out.
Spot solder at top and footplate.
PAGE 3
PAGE 26

Solder a length of 0.7mm brass wire along the front edge of
the loco to tender fall plate (part 12). Pass split pins over the
wire through the slots in the cab floor and into the holes in
the footplate. Solder the tails of the split pins to the underside
of the footplate. Ensure that the fall plate moves freely at its
hinge and then snip off excess of split pin tails.
9
12
0.7mm wire
Split pins
Solder the fire box (cladding bands) boiler bands (parts 17)
around the wrapper locating the full metal section of the band
into the etched grooves to aid positioning the bands parallel.
Start 1mm from bottom edge and work around over the fire
box top to the other side. Fold up the two sand box cut out
backing pieces (parts 18) and solder into place behind the
fire box wrapper. The firebox can now be soldered to the
footplate and cab front. Ensure that the assembly is fitted as
square and central as possible. You may find that passing a
length of tube through the holes in the cab front and firebox is
helpful in lining everything up.
Take the smoke box front (part 19) and emboss bolt heads.
Then roughly pre form the smoke box wrapper (part 20) to
match the profile of the front and fix the front face down onto
a flat surface. Solder the wrapper around the front,
positioning the wrapper centre to the half etched line on the
front and working from the centre solder in sections around
each side. Solder the spacers (parts 21) into the slots on
smoke box front making sure that they sit square. Solder the
smoke box rear (part 22) into place inside the wrapper and
locating onto the spacers. When happy with the assembly file
a slight radius around the front and back edges. Pre form the
rivet detail wrapper (part 23) and solder around the assembly
by lining up the chimney holes and working around each
side.
Take a boiler end former (parts 24) and fix to a flat surface
so that the etched ring around the circumference is face
upwards. Spring the end of the pre rolled boiler (part 25)
around this ring and working from the outside and using
plenty of flux, so that the solder is drawn underneath the
boiler end, solder around the circumference. Repeat for the
former at the other end and then dress back with a file.
4. Remove the fire box rear former (part 13) fire box front
former (part 14) and front former thickening piece (part 15)
from the fret. Solder the thickener to the firebox front. Take
the fire box wrapper (part 16) and form radii on the top
corners to match the former profiles. I use a drill shank or
length of tube to help with this. The holes for the mud hole
doors are useful to indicate the centre line of the curved
bend. Fix the front former face down to a flat surface and
lining up the etched centre marks solder the formed wrapper
around the former. Repeat with the back former. Then file a
radius around the front of the firebox.
PAGE 4
PAGE 25

Fit the boiler bands (parts 26). The band with the full metal strip fits into the etched groove
around the centre of the boiler and the half etched bands fit at either end. The boiler and
smoke box must now be united and I have found that this is best done by passing a
length of tube through the centre holes of the smoke box and boiler then placing
them onto the footplate and passing the tube through firebox holes. Adjust
the sections until you are happy with their position in relation to each
other and the footplate and then tack solder boiler to smoke box
joint. Remove the assembly and solder the joint solid. If you
wish you can also solder a ring of soft wire around the
circumference of the joint to represent the boiler to
s m o k e box jointing ring. Do not solder the
assembly to the footplate until
after the next stage.
20
23
21
22
24
26
25
24
14
15
17
13
19
16
18
PAGE 5
PAGE 24

5. Fold the splasher fronts through 90° and fit the
splasher tops. I fitted these before finally fitting the smoke
box and boiler assembly but checked that the smoke box
would fit snugly between the front splashers as I fitted them.
You may wish to fit the boiler before the splashers but access
is then a little restricted.
First using a length of tube roughly pre form the splasher
tops (parts 27) rear (parts 28) centre and (parts 29) front.
Solder into place with the front edge slightly overlapping the
splasher front so that you can then dress the splasher front
with a flat file to achieve a crisp square edge. It may be
necessary to trim the length of the splasher tops slightly.
Fit the firebox to footplate beading strips (parts 30). These
are very useful to tidy up the joint.
Fit the splasher to footplate beading (parts 31) rear (parts
32) centre (parts 33) front. Again it may be necessary to trim
slightly to achieve a snug fit. Using a generous amount of flux
allow the solder to flood into the gaps and joints and then
clean back with knife and fibre glass brush to achieve clean
crisp edges.
30
33
32
29
28
31
27
30
PAGE 6
For transfers I would recommend the ones produced by the
Historical Model Railway Society, 8 Gilpin Green,
Harpenden, Herts, AL5 5NR. You will require sheet number
2, LMS yellow loco insignia or sheet number 14, BR steam
era loco insignia. They are also stocked by some
specialist model shops such as Home of 0 Gauge.
Screw Reverser Cab Gauges
Regulator
Handle
That should be about everything covered for the loco
construction so now build the tender or if this is already built
paint. Livery is very easy as all 4Fs were black. You should
have numbering details from your prototype research.
PAGE 23

6. Take the right hand frame (part 34) and fold the two
lubricator support plates through 90°. Fit the frames into the
slots in the foot plate between the front two splashers.
34
Fold Lubricator Supports
35
Take the left hand frame (part 35) and solder into footplate.
I now fit the smoke box and boiler into place on the
footplate. Tack solder it into place first and check by eye from
all directions that you are happy with its position and that the
footplate is not twisted. Solder all joints solid by working in
short sections and checking for footplate twist.
Fit the valve chest cover (part 36) to the smoke box front
and fit two handles made from 0.7mm brass wire.
36
0.7mm Wire handles
Reversing rod assembly
Valve chest cover Frame
PAGE 7
Originally 4Fs were fitted with long travel valves
and tail rod covers were fitted to the front buffer
beam and I have provided castings for these. From
around the mid 1930s these were removed and a
blanking plate was fitted and for these I have provided etched
plates (parts 104) so check your prototype photos.
Make up the front coupling (see tender instructions for
details) and solder solid into front buffer beam.
All 4Fs were vacuum brake fitted so fit a tall
vacuum pipe. Some locos were fitted with steam
heat pipes for working passenger trains. I have
provided casting for this pipe but I tend not to fit them
to models as I find that they can get in the way of
coupling up on a layout. Also some locos that were
fitted with steam heat sometimes had their pipes
removed for the summer.
Drill out the smoke box to take the handrail supports and fit
handrail made from 0.7mm brass wire. File the tails of the
supports flush with the back of the smoke box door. Fit lamp
bracket (part 47) to the smoke box door and then fit door to
model. I prefer to glue the door into place using Araldite. Fit
buffers into buffer beam.
For the cab interior detail I prefer to paint each item
separately and then glue them into place after the main
model is painted. The spectacle windows could be glazed
with clear plastic sheet but I prefer to cut flat sheets from the
clear blister packs that many items are packaged in
nowadays and use these. This has a textured surface
probably caused by the moulding process, which gives it a
slightly opaque quality that I think represents dirty windows
just right.
104
X
Drill smoke box door for hand
rail supports and fit 0.7mm wire
handrail also fit lamp bracket
For coupling
see tender
instructions
Vacuum
pipe
PAGE 22

39
38
37
Copper rod pin
7. Take the reversing gear operating arm (part 37) and
solder through the slot in the footplate. Solder a piece of
copper rod through the hole in the top to form a joint pin.
Take the reversing reach rod (part 38) and solder the cover
plate (part 39) on top. Then fit the reach rod through the slot
in the fire box front and slide the other end onto the pin in the
operating arm.
41
40
42
Take the front frames (parts 40) and laminate onto them the
rivet detail overlays (parts 41). Solder them to the footplate
making sure that they are tight up to the smoke box side and
blend in to the splasher curve.
Take the front footplate section (part 42) and solder hard
against the smoke box front between the frames. It may be
necessary to file the part to achieve a good fit.
PAGE 8
Mud Hole Doors
later type. These
seemed to be fitted to
most locos in BR days
but check your
prototype photos. I
have provided small
diameter etched holes
for fitting the early type cover so open
these out using a tapered broach or
reamer to 4.5mm diameter and
remove any burs from around the
holes. Fit the cast clamp into the
round body and then mount into holes
from the inside of the firebox.
FIREBOX MUD HOLE DOORS
Early type cover
Solder brass
whistle pipe into
cab front to
provide maximum
strength
WHISTLE
& SAFETY
VALVE
Chimney
Midland Type
Dome Tall
Chimney
LMS Type Dome Short
A number of different chimneys and domes were fitted to
the 4F class over the years. I have provided two alternatives
for each that cover the majority of the class but again check
photos of your chosen prototype. As a rule of thumb in early
years most of the class were fitted with the Midland type, with
or without capuchin, and tall dome. In later years the taller
LMS Stanier type was fitted with the short dome. My sample
model is fitted with tall chimney and dome just to be different.
PAGE 21

46
45 43
44
47
47
8. Fold the back of the rear step treads (parts 43) through 90° and bend
up the two outer corners slightly. Solder the treads solidly into the etched
rebates on the step support plates (parts 44) then fold the top forward
through 90° and solder the assembled step to the underside of the footplate
hard up against the valance. If you have been neat with your
previous soldering you should find that I have allowed sufficient
clearance in the top of the step to clear the cab side tab etc that
projects through the footplate but if the step wont sit down
snugly onto the footplate file away the top of the step until it
does and then reinforce everything with solder.
Make up and fit the front steps in a similar way using (parts 45)
treads and (parts 46) support plates. Fit the grab handles made
from 0.7mm brass wire into the footplate above the steps.
Fold up and fit the footplate lamp brackets (parts 47) noting the
etched marks to help positioning. Also fold up the smoke box
door lamp bracket and place to one side for later use.
I now find that this is a good point to place the body to one side
and construct the chassis. Once a running chassis is achieved
we can determine that there will be no clearance problems with
the body and then the castings and detail work can be applied.
Alternatively you may wish to construct the chassis alongside
the body.
Footplate
lamp
bracket
Smoke
box
door
lamp
bracket
PAGE 9
Feed and drain
Pipe work made
From soft wire
Grab rail from
brass wire
The vacuum ejector had plumbing that you may wish to
represent using soft wire but check photos as the pipe runs
seemed to vary on different locos. Also some locos had a
grab rail below the ejector but this looked like a bodged on
addition. Perhaps done at sheds where the loco crew were
fed up with burning their hands.
Front handle
Body mounts
onto folded
plates on top
of frames
Operating ratchet fits into rear
of body arm downwards
Oil pipes made
from soft wire
LUBRICATORS
Front filler is flush with
footplate. If desired
drill out etched one
and fit casting
SANDBOX
FILLER CAPS
Smoke box Anti
Vacuum Valve. These
fit either side with the
bolt head detail on the
underside. Some of the
instruction photos show
them fitted upside
down. This just goes to
show that even my own
models have parts
fitted upside down.
PAGE 20

LMS 4F CHASSIS ASSEMBLY
9. Take the main frames (parts 48) and using a tapered
reamer open out the axle holes so that the turned brass
bearings will be a snug fit. If you are fitting plunger pickups
then also open out the holes for these so that the housing will
be a snug fit.
Take the frame spacers (parts 49) and where appropriate
fold them through 90°. The rear spacer is slightly tight on the
axle gear wheel and so you may wish to fold this one through
95° to give a little extra clearance.
Now pin one side frame down to a flat block of wood with
the top of the frame slightly overhanging the edge of the
block. Solder each spacer firmly into place. Fit second
sideframe checking with an enginers square that the two
sideframes are exactly opposite each other. Tack solder the
second frame at the tabs only and start in the centre and
work to each end. Remove the chassis from the wood block
and check that it is square and not twisted. Once you are
happy solder all joints solid.
Fold the reversing gear weight shaft brackets that project
upwards from the top edge of the frames into inverted U
shapes and reinforce the folds with a spot of solder.
Laminate together the the reversing gear balance weights
(parts 50) and fold over the circular ends to form four metal
thicknesses. Cut a length of 1.5mm brass rod to a length that
will be a spring fit between the frame brackets and thread the
weights onto this and solder centrally 6mm apart. Fit a length
of 0.9mm brass wire through the holes in the ends of the
weights and trim down to slightly less than chassis width and
then solder the 1.5mm brass rod weight shaft solidly to the
chassis brackets.
50
Fold over to form shaft brackets
0.9mm brass wire 1.5mm brass rod
Fold up the ash pan sides (parts 51) and solder into the half
etched rebates on the inside of the frames
51
Note how cast spring fits to frame
PAGE 10
time spent working on the top surface with knife blade and
fibre brush removing part lines and casting blemishes will be
well rewarded. Any casting porosity marks can be filled with
70° solder and polished back smooth. Check that you are
happy with the way the roof fits and file or scrape the
underside edges if required. Solder the roof into place with
70° solder fitting two lengths of (tinned with 145°) soft wire at
the joints between roof and cab side. Using plenty of flux
allow a generous amount of 70° solder to flow over the wire
and around the joints. Then scrape back with knife blade and
clean up with fibre brush to reveal the wire rainstrips and
blend the cab roof into the sides with no sign of a joint. Drill
out hole in centre of cab roof and fit the roof ventilator.
16. On the prototype loco the boiler handrails were
actually pipes the R/H one feeding the smoke box blower the
L/H one feeding the vacuum ejector.
On the model these are represented with brass tube cut to
length and opened out split pins threaded on. The split pins
are gently squeezed closed at the back so that they form
tightly around the tube and then mounted into the boiler. A
length of 0.7mm brass
wire is fitted into the
tube to continue the R/
H handrail along the
smoke box. The cast
vacuum ejector has
0.7mm brass wire cast
into it and this is fitted
into the L/H tube to
again continue it along
the smoke box.
Fit
into
tube
Continue along
smoke box
Right Hand handrail
Tube
Split pins
0.7mm Brass wire
Brass tube
Split pins
Split pin
PAGE 19

51
50
53
48
48
52
49
49
1.5mm Brass rod
1.5mm Brass rod
Laminate balance weights
together and fit centrally
onto brass rod 6mm apart 0.9mm Brass wire to
form brake hangers
LMS Fowler 4F
Main Chassis Assembly
Fold this spacer through
about 95° to give extra
clearance for gear wheel
PAGE 11
If required in the future a slight twist of the nut with pliers will
break off the burr allowing you to remove the nuts.
The chassis is fixed to the body using two 6BA screws into
the captive nuts that you soldered to the footplate as one of
the first operations. No matter how careful you are in building
a loco body you will probably have built in a slight twist. It is
important that the body does not twist the level chassis out of
square so I recommend only locking tight one screw leaving
the other slightly backed off.
In this way I can solder the tinned end of the electrical wire
very quickly onto the tag with no risk of heat getting to the
plunger. I prefer to fit a separate length of electrical wire to
each pickup and join the wires as I terminate them at the
motor tags. I find that this is neater and easier than trying to
link the pickups on each side together using jumper wires.
You will find holes in the spacers that are useful for running
the wires back to the motor.
Tin end of tag
If you are a little unsure about this you can solder the wire
to the tag then lock it between the nuts and thread the wire
and plunger through the hole in the chassis. Once the
plunger is fitted into the chassis I run a ring of Araldite around
the housing on the inside face of the chassis side.
Now clear any paint from the inside of the bearings and refit
wheels and rods (gently nip tight the crankpin nuts using long
nosed pliers) fitting the gearwheel onto the back axle. Check
that the chassis runs freely and then fit and wire up the
motor. Hopefully you are fitting one of my motor/gear sets
and full instructions for fitting and adjusting to achieve a
sweet running chassis are included. If the motor is not one of
mine I would happily send you a set of instructions on receipt
of a SAE. You should now have a completed chassis that
runs like a Swiss watch so its probably time for a cup of tea.
While the kettle is boiling you can snip off the extra length of
crankpin and dress back flush with the face of the nuts using
a flat file. This should create a slight burr on the thread at the
nut and this will help to keep the nut locked into place.
CASTINGS AND DETAIL WORK
15. Fit the cast cab roof. As this is a large casting and the
cab roof will be very prominent on the finished model a little
Soft wire rainstrip at joint
Peg on roof ventilator fits into hole in cab roof
PAGE 18

Solder a 6 BA nut onto the top side of the loco to tender
coupling bar mounting strip (part 52). Then spring between
the frames locating into slots. The tender coupling bar will be
mounted onto this using a screw with a spring.
Fold up and fit to the chassis the front sandbox spacing
brackets (parts 53). It may be necessary to adjust this
bracket later when fitting the brake hangers.
53
52
PAGE 12
61
61
61
Fit the wheel balance weights (parts 61) These are best
glued into place using Araldite.
14. I prefer to strip down and paint the chassis before
fitting the pickups and motor. There are two options for
pickups, plunger pickups or wiper pickups. The choice of
which is very much down to personal preference I have
occasionally used wipers (mainly for additional tender
pickups on tender locos) and have had successful results
fabricating them from 0.45mm spring brass wire soldered to
PCB mounting plates Araldited across the chassis. I have
included these materials and a suggestion for making them.
used them almost exclusively on all my locomotive chassis. I
prefer to use Slater’s plunger pickups and I have placed
suitable holes for these in the chassis. I have found that
Slater’s plunger pickups require a little care in their
preparation and fitting if they are to work reliably. Drill out the
back hole in the plastic housing 1.4mm. I then run a 2.4mm
drill down the inside of the plastic housing twisting the drill
between finger and thumb. This will remove any wisps of
plastic that may jamb the plunger. By twisting the drill
between finger and thumb there is no risk of the drill binding
and drilling right through the end. Fit the spring onto the
plunger and fit into housing running a nut onto the back end.
When fully depressed the plunger should sit virtually flush
with the end of the housing. It is important that you use the
etched solder tag that is locked between two nuts on the end
of the plunger. If you try to solder the electrical wire direct to
the plunger you will melt the threaded end into the plastic
housing. This will cause the plunger to jamb in use even if it
feels free before fitting (this is probably what people who
don't like plungers have done). I tin one end of the etched tag
with electrical solder before locking between the nuts.
A suggestion for making
Wire wiper pick ups
Bend wire into loop
and fill with solder
solder
Leads to
motor
For myself I am a great fan of plunger pickups and have
PAGE 17

10. Open out the holes in the wings of the motor mount
(part 54) to be snug clearance over the turned axle bearings.
Then fold the wings through 90° and reinforce folds with
solder. Now temporarily screw the motor to the mount and fit
the mount between the frames locating into place with a
couple of wheel bearings popped lose into the axle holes.
Now offer the chassis to the body to determine the correct
motor angle required to achieve clearance inside the fire box.
Once you are happy with the motor angle spot solder the
mount into place and remove the motor. Solder the motor
mount solidly between the frames but ensure that the turned
bearings still remain removable. Now solder the turned
bearings into the side frames. I pop them into the frames and
then pass a lightly oiled axle through them to ensure that
they are both correctly aligned. Don't worry if the axle is
slightly tight in the bearings as the bearings can be opened
out with a tapered broach to provide a nice running clearance
once the bearings are soldered solid. It is a good idea to
reduce the potential side play on the rear driving axle by
packing out the bearings using spacing washers or by
pushing the bearings outwards along the axle away from the
side frames. A distance of about 28.5mm over the outside
faces of the bearings is about right. Maximum side play on
the centre and front axles is desirable to help the loco around
curves so these should be hard against the side frames. I
solder the bearings into place on the inside face of the
chassis sideframes by using a generous amount of liquid flux
and a hot iron carrying a good amount of solder. I place the
iron tip at the joint between bearing and side frame so that
the iron is heating both the bearing and the side frame. I find
that after a few seconds when the heat has built up the flux
pulls the solder off the iron bit and flows around the
circumference of the bearing. I find that soldering a bearing
this way is a lot more controllable than soldering on the
outside face of the chassis side frame.
I would now recommend fitting the cast springs to the
chassis side frames. You will have to shorten one leg of the
back axle springs so that they will fit onto the ash pan.
PAGE 13
Take the brake cross shafts (parts 59) spring
between the brake hangers and solder square
and horizontal. Fit the brake pull rods (parts 60)
by twisting into place and soldering so that they
run straight down the chassis centre line. The
rear pull rod is fitted to a cross shaft made from
1.5mm brass rod.
Drill out the bottom of the cast sand boxes to
take the fixing peg of the sand chambers and fit
these. Then carefully drill out the sand
chambers to take a length of 0.9mm brass wire.
Fit the sandboxes to the chassis sideframes
noting etched positioning marks. Form wire to
represent sandpipes and solder into sand
chamber so that pipe lines up with the wheel.
0.9mm Brass wire sandpipe
Drill out
for wire
60
60
60
59
59
59
Sandboxes
Narrow X 4, Wider X 2
1.5mm Brass rod
Front
sandbox
and pipe
PAGE 16

11. Now prepare the Slater’s wheels. Remove any plastic
flash or moulding pips from the backs of the wheel by rubbing
them flat on a piece of fine emery cloth (this flash can
sometimes interfere with the plunger pickups). The crankpin
screw head needs to be flush with the back of the wheel (it
may interfere with the shoulder of the bearing otherwise) so it
will be necessary to drill a countersink hole. Use a 2.5mm
drill in a hand held pin chuck. Drill gently and keep checking
with the head of the screw until the hole is the correct depth.
The screw is designed to self tap into the plastic and then
lock itself. I don’t trust this and prefer to screw it in until the
head is just proud of the wheel back. I then fill the
countersink hole with Araldite and then screw it in until it
locks. Leave the wheels until the Araldite has set and then
clean of any excess Araldite by rubbing the wheel on the
emery cloth. This should leave the screw head embedded in
Araldite and prevent the potential problem of the screw
turning when you are trying to undo the crankpin nut.
You may find that the square axle end is a tight fit into the
centre of the wheel and this needs correcting. With a fine flat
file gently dress each of the four sides of the axle end. I find it
helps to lay the bottom flat of the axle end onto the edge of a
block of wood. This helps me keep the file parallel as I file the
top flat. Offer the axle end into the wheel centre and repeat if
necessary. You are aiming to get a gentle push fit but with no
rocking or movement on the square. A good guide is to get it
so that you can remove the wheel from the axle with just your
finger nails around the steel tyre. If you have to grip the tyre
with your finger ends to pull it off you will find it difficult to
remove the wheels to paint the chassis. Once happy fit the
wheel sets into the chassis remembering to quarter the
wheels (the crankpins on one side should lead the other by
90°).
Check that the chassis sits level on a flat surface without
rocking (twist slightly if required). The centre wheels are
raised slightly to prevent the loco rocking on uneven track
and so these wheels wont revolve if the chassis is pushed
along the bench.
12. Make up the coupling rods (parts 55) by laminating
together the three parts of each section and then fitting the
separate bosses. The rods are designed to be jointed by
overlapping on the centre
crank pin. A short length of
1.8mm copper rod is fitted
into the coupling rod at the
section that cosmetically
represents the prototype
joint.
24
Copper rod to
form joint pin
PAGE 14
Now open out the crankpin holes in the rods to accept the
brass top hat bearing bushes. This is best done with a
tapered broach or tapered engineers reamer (I have one that
tapers from 3mm to 2mm and is 40mm long (see yellow
pages for a good engineers tool merchant they are not cheap
but will last a lifetime). With the reamer gently work from both
sides of the rod until the bush is a smooth free fit into the
hole.
Now fit the rods and check that the chassis runs freely and
that the wheels will turn without binding. If you do have a
problem gently revolve the wheels with your finger tip until
you hit the tight spot then check the rods. You should find
that one rod still moves freely on the crankpins and this side
is OK. You should find that the rod on the other side is tight
on the crank pins and this is where the problem is. Normally
the problem is a crankpin screw that is not square in the
wheel (unless you have reamed the hole in the rod out of
square). With a round file gently file oval the hole in the rod
until it fits freely onto the crankpins and then refit the rod and
check the chassis again.
At this stage don't worry about slight tight spots. If you can
push the chassis along the bench without the wheels
skidding along then all is OK. As the wheels are best
removed for painting the chassis the chances are that they
will not go back on in the same place. The correct point to
make final adjustments is after painting and fitting pickups
but before fitting the motor. If you have filed a crankpin hole
in the rods oval it is worth marking this wheel so that you can
match them up again on reassembly. Now remove the rods
and place safely to one side.
Using long nosed pliers
bend sets into the front end
guard irons so that they are
32mm (rail gauge) apart.
13. Take the brake
hangers (parts 56) and
solder brake blocks (parts
57) to them. Make up three
left hand and three right
hand sets. Thread lengths of
0.9mm brass wire across
the chassis and spot solder
to the inside of the
sideframes. Fold up the
brake hanger brackets
(parts 58) then thread
bracket and brake hanger
onto the wire. Solder the
bracket to the side frame
and line up brake block just
clear of the wheel and
solder to wire. I find it helpful
to hold the brake hanger
using a miniature electrical
crocodile clip as I solder it in
position. I fit all six brakes to roughly line up with the wheels
first and then work around tweaking with pliers or resoldering
until I am happy that they are positioned correctly with no risk
of touching a wheel.
32mm
56
58
57
0.9mm wire
Cross shaft
PAGE 15