XTM Racing XT2 Racer Manual


Page 2
ENGINE WARNINGS
●Never use any fuel in your engine other than glow fuels
specically designed for use in model car engines. Use of any
other types of fuel can cause severe damage to your engine
and/or personal injury. NEVER USE GASOLINE/PETROL OR
DIESEL FUEL!
●Never operate your model on any public streets. This could
cause trafc accidents, personal injury or property damage.
●Glow fuel engines emit exhaust vapours that are poisonous
and can be dangerous to your health. It is important that you
operate your engine in a very well-ventilated area, preferably
outdoors.
●Before starting your engine, make sure that the throttle trim is
set to the idle position. Starting your engine at any setting above
idle can cause the model to lurch out of your hands.
●When your engine is running, there are certain parts that
rotate at high speeds. Be careful not to touch the drive shafts,
gears, clutch assembly or any other moving parts. Otherwise,
serious injury could result.
●It is normal for your engine and tuned pipe to get very hot
during operation. Never touch these parts while they are hot
or you could be burned.
●Model car engines produce vibration when they are running.
It is important to periodically check the engine mounting screws
and other assemblies to ensure they are tight. Running your
engine with the engine mounting screws loose can lead to severe
engine and/or chassis damage.
FUEL WARNINGS
●Glow fuels like those used in your model are poisonous. Follow
all the precautions that are printed on the fuel manufacturer's
container.
●Keep glow fuel out of the reach of children.
● Glow fuel is extremely ammable. Keep away from high heat,
sparks and ame.
GENERAL WARNINGS
●Under no circumstances should you operate your model in
crowds of people. Serious injury could result.
●Never operate your model on busy streets or if there are
cars around.
●Do not use your model to chase pets or other animals.
●The receiver and battery boxes are not waterproof; therefore,
do not drive through water, wet grass, mud or snow.
●Because your model is operated by radio control, it is important
to make sure you always are using fresh and/or fully charged
batteries. Never allow the batteries to run low or you could lose
control of the model.
●If your model becomes stuck, allow the engine to idle, then
retrieve your model by hand.
●To prevent excessive r.p.m. from damaging your engine and/or
drivetrain components, we suggest reducing throttle while in
the air during jumps.
FOR YOUR SAFETY - PLEASE READ THESE WARNINGS FIRST!
XTM RACING CUSTOMER SERVICE INFORMATION
If you should have trouble with any of the steps listed in this booklet, or if you nd a missing or damaged part in your kit,
please contact your local distributor at the address below:
CHECK OUT OUR WEBSITE FOR MORE INFORMATION ON THIS AND OTHER EXCITING XTM RACING PRODUCTS!
WWW.TEAMXTM.COM
XTM Racing guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship, at the date of purchase. This does not cover any component
parts damaged by use, misuse or modication. In no case shall XTM Racing's liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit.
In that XTM Racing has no control over the nal assembly or material used for nal assembly, no liability shall be assumed for any damage
resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the act of using the final user-assembled product, the user
accepts all resulting liability.
In North America:
Global Services
18480 Bandilier Circle
Fountain Valley, CA 92708
Phone: (714) 963-0329
Fax: (714) 964-6236
Email: service@globalhobby.net
In Europe:
Ripmax Ltd.
241 Green Street
Phone: (0) 20 8282-7500
Fax: (0) 20 8282-7501
Email: [email protected]

Page 3
INTRODUCTION
This booklet is designed to help you get your new X-Terminator 2 RTR 4WD
Nitro Buggy running as quickly as possible. This booklet includes
also includes a chassis tuning section and a complete parts list with detailed
throughout this booklet, so keep it handy for future reference.
SOME POPULAR OPTION PARTS FOR YOUR X-TERMINATOR 2 RTR 4WD NITRO BUGGY
XTM Racing produces popular option parts for your X-Terminator 2 RTR 4WD Nitro Buggy. Please see page # 60 for a complete list
of current option parts. New option parts are always in the works, so check our website often.
WWW.TEAMXTM.COM
2-Speed Transmission Aluminium Steering Hubs Aluminium Hub Carriers
CVD Silicone Dust BootsAluminium Rear Hubs
Titanium Turnbuckles
New suspension geometry! New radio system layout! New bracing systems! The
X-Terminator 2 RTR 4WD Nitro Buggy has it all!
Whether it's racing on the track or just bashing in a eld, the X-Terminator 2 RTR
4WD Nitro Buggy is ready to tear up the terrain and carve through the curves
with ease. Designed with adjustable camber, adjustable toe-in, and adjustable
bump steer, the X-Terminator 2 RTR 4WD Nitro Buggy is prepared to take on
the different surfaces it encounters.
Included are factory-installed beefy 5mm braces to support the front and rear
gear boxes, a mega high-torque metal-geared steering servo, metric steel-alloy
hex screws throughout, and a steel drive-train to keep the enjoyment owing from
fuel tank to fuel tank. Add to that the reliability and power from the popular
XTM Racing 24.7 engine, and the X-Terminator 2 RTR 4WD Nitro Buggy is sure
to create the 1/8 scale enjoyment that everyone can enjoy!

Page 4
RECOMMENDED TOOLS AND SUPPLIES
This section lists the recommended tools and supplies that you need to purchase and have onhand to nish assembling and to run and
maintain your new X-Terminator 2 RTR 4WD Nitro Buggy. We have tested these items extensively with the X-Terminator 2 RTR 4WD
Nitro Buggy and found that they offer the best in reliability and value.
WHAT FUEL DO I USE?
Fuel can make a big difference in the way your engine performs. For the break-in period you should use a fuel specically designed for
R/C car engines that contains no more than 20% nitromethane and 10%~14% oil content. Once the engine has been adequately broken in
(about 45 minutes of run-time) you can switch to an R/C car fuel containing up to, but no more than, 30% nitromethane and 10%~14% oil
content.
WARNING We do not recommend using fuels designed for R/C aircraft engine use. These fuels do not contain the proper amount of
lubricants; therefore, they will cause the engine to overheat and severe damage to the engine will result.
DO I NEED TO PURCHASE EXTRA GLOW PLUGS?
Yes. Even though your XTM Racing 24.7 engine comes with a glow plug already installed, glow plugs wear
out, especially during the break-in period; therefore, it's a good idea to have a couple of spares handy. We
recommend using a "medium" or "hot" heat-range glow plug intended specically for performance engines
like the XTM Racing # 4 (P/N 146021) or the XTM Racing # 3 (P/N 146020) during the break-in process.
After the break-in period you may want to use a different heat-range glow plug. Do not use glow plugs
intended for four stroke aircraft engines or glow plugs with an "idle bar". Using the wrong type of glow plug
will cause the engine to run erratically and make it difcult to tune properly. The wrong type of glow plug
could also damage the engine. AN XTM RACING # 4 GLOW PLUG IS INCLUDED IN THE ENGINE.
20%
Nitro Car Fuel
Use For Break-In and For
Normal Use
USE THE FOLLOWING FUELS FOR THE BEST PERFORMANCE:
20% Nitro Car Fuel
(use this fuel for break-in and normal use)
30% Nitro Car Fuel
(use this fuel after break-in for more power)
DO I NEED TO USE A FUEL BOTTLE?
Yes. Because fuel is packaged in larger containers, you will need to use a smaller
bottle with an extension wand to ll the fuel tank. Fueling using this method is much
easier and a lot less messy.
Fuel Bottle
Use This to Fill the Fuel Tank
HOW DO I REMOVE THE GLOW PLUG?
A long reach glow plug wrench is necessary to easily and quickly remove and
replace glow plugs.
1/8th
Scale 4-Way Wrench
Use This to Remove and Reinstall the
Engine's Glow Plug
WHAT DO I USE TO IGNITE THE GLOW PLUG?
A glow starter is a battery-operated device that, when attached to the glow plug,
heats the glow plug so that the engine can start. The glow starter is then removed
after the engine is running.
Glow Starter
Use This to Ignite the
Engine's Glow Plug
Continued On Next Page

Page 5
RECOMMENDED TOOLS AND SUPPLIES, CONTINUED....
In addition to the items listed on the previous page, the following tools and supplies will also be required to run and maintain
your X-Terminator 2 RTR 4WD Nitro Buggy:
●"8 Pack" AA Alkaline Batteries for Transmitter
●"4 Pack" AA Alkaline Batteries for Receiver
●High-quality After-Run Oil
●XTM Racing Air Filter Oil
●Nitro Car Cleaner
●Small, Flat Blade Screwdriver
●# 1 and # 2 Phillips Head Screwdrivers
●Assorted Metric Hex Wrenches
●Adjustable Open-End Wrench
●Assorted Weights of Silicone Shock Oil to Tune the Shocks and Differentials (Optional)
Each radio system comes with a sticker on the transmitter and on the receiver showing which frequency the radio system operates
on (either in the 27MHz, 40MHz or 75MHz band). No two radio systems can operate nearby each other if they are on the same
frequency. You can purchase transmitter and receiver crystals separately and change them if you plan on running your X-Terminator
2 RTR 4WD Nitro Buggy with other people.
BECOMING FAMILIAR WITH YOUR X-TERMINATOR 2 RTR 4WD NITRO BUGGY
Antenna: Transmits the signal from the transmitter to the receiver. The antenna should be completely extended during use.
Battery Cover: This cover houses the 8 AA Alkaline batteries that power the transmitter.
Crystal: This is the frequency crystal of the transmitter. You can change crystals in both the transmitter and the receiver so that you and your friends
can drive at the same time. No two radio systems nearby can be operated on the same frequency.
On/Off Switch: Turns the transmitter on and off. L.E.D.s show the power status of the batteries.
Servo Reversing Switches: Allow you to quickly and easily change the direction the servos rotate by just ipping the switches. The
switches are located under the removable plastic cover.
Steering Wheel: Controls your X-Terminator 2 RTR 4WD Nitro Buggy's steering. Turn the wheel to the right and the Nitro Buggy turns right. Turn
the wheel to the left and the Nitro Buggy turns left.
Steering Dual Rate Control Dial: This dial adjusts the overall travel of the steering servo. Push the dial forward for maximum steering (~100%).
Pull the dial back to reduce steering travel (minimum ~20%).
Throttle/Brake Trigger: Controls the speed and braking ability of your X-Terminator 2 RTR 4WD Nitro Buggy. Pull the trigger to accelerate, release
the trigger to decelerate, and push the trigger to brake.
Steering Trim Dials: These dials, one for steering and one for throttle/brake control, allow you to ne tune the servo's centre by turning the
dials on the transmitter back and forth.
Continued On Next Page
The transmitter shown may be different than the one included,
although the features described should be similar
27MHz and 75MHz
These frequencies are legal for use in North
America.
27MHz and 40MHz
These frequencies are legal for use in Europe,
but can vary from country to country.

Page 6
BECOMING FAMILIAR WITH YOUR X-TERMINATOR 2 RTR 4WD NITRO BUGGY, CONTINUED....
Air Filter: The air lter is made of foam and prevents dirt and debris from entering the engine through the carburettor. The air lter should be
"wet" with air lter oil for maximum efciency.
Battery Box: This is where the receiver battery is mounted. The battery box protects the batteries from dust, dirt and oil. The battery box
is not waterproof.
Body Mount: Made of high-impact nylon plastic for strength, the body mount secures the body into place. There is a dual-mount body mount at the
rear of the chassis and a single-mount body mount at the front of the chassis.
Dust Guard: Helps prevent track debris from entering and damaging transmission components, prot6 ects tuned pipe from impacts.
Engine: The X-Terminator 2 RTR 4WD Nitro Buggy includes the powerful XTM Racing 24.7 engine with pull-starter and tuned pipe for ease
of use and great performance.
Front Bumper: Made out of high-impact nylon plastic, the front bumper protects the chassis from most head-on impacts.
Fuel Tank: The fuel tank holds the fuel that your engine uses. This fuel tank includes a fuel pressure nipple that connects to the tuned pipe to pressurise
the fuel system and also features a quick-ip type lid for fast refueling.
Pull-Start: A spring recoil system used to start the engine.
Receiver Box: This is where the receiver is mounted. The receiver box protects the receiver from dust, dirt and oil. The receiver box is
not waterproof.
Shock Absorber: Each shock is oil-lled and uses a spring that is well suited for most off-road conditions. The shocks feature threaded shock bodies that
allow the shocks to be easily tuned for different driving conditions. The shocks come standard with 30Wt oil and 1.5mm white springs.
Shock Tower: Secures shock absorber whilst allowing many different geometry settings to suit different track conditions.
Steering Servo: This servo controls the vehicle's steering. A "servo saver" is used to help prevent the servo gears from being stripped out.
Steering Tie-Rod: The tie-rod connects the steering linkage and the castor block. The tie-rods are adjustable so you can make toe-angle
adjustments to the front wheels.
Suspension Arm: Helps improve vehicle's handling (when coupled to shock absorbers) and braking whilst ensuring maximum traction (keeps wheels
in contact with the ground) and protects chassis components from undue stresses and strains.
Throttle/Brake Servo: This device controls both the vehicle's acceleration and braking functions.
Tuned Pipe: The tuned pipe is an expansion mufer that greatly increases the power output of the engine.
Wheel/Tyre Assembly: The X-Terminator 2 RTR 4WD Nitro Buggy includes moulded rubber tyres with a tread pattern that is good for most off-road
applications. The wheels are moulded in one piece from lightweight, high-impact plastic for strength.
Wing: Provides downforce to ensure maximum traction when racing. Wing angle can be adjusted to different track conditions.
PHOTO SHOWN MAY DIFFER
FROM ACTUAL PRODUCTION MODEL

Page 7
Now that you are familiar with the major component parts of your X-Terminator 2 RTR 4WD Nitro Buggy, and with the functions of the
pistol-grip transmitter, it's time to prepare your X-Terminator 2 RTR 4WD Nitro Buggy for its rst run.
IMPORTANT Before continuing, please double-check that you've read and understood the warnings on page # 2. It's important
that you understand this information before preparing to run your X-Terminator 2 RTR 4WD Nitro Buggy. Also, remember,
if you have any questions or encounter any problems, you can contact your local distributor using the Customer Service
Information on page # 2.
YOUR X-TERMINATOR 2 RTR 4WD NITRO BUGGY SHOULD INCLUDE THE FOLLOWING ITEMS SEPARATELY IN THE BOX:
●X-Terminator 2 RTR 4WD Chassis
●Pistol Grip Transmitter
●Transmitter Antenna
●Body and Wing
PREPARING TO RUN YOUR X-TERMINATOR 2 RTR 4WD NITRO BUGGY
STEP 1: FINAL ASSEMBLY
❑Check to be sure that the transmitter ON/OFF switch is in the 'OFF' position.
❑Push the transmitter antenna down into the moulded hole in the top of the transmitter.
❑Thread the antenna (clockwise) into place and tighten it gently until it stops.
IMPORTANT Do not force the antenna into place or tighten it too strongly. Doing so
could cause damage to the antenna and/or transmitter.
❑Remove the plastic battery cover from the bottom of the transmitter.
❑Install 8 AA Alkaline batteries into the battery tray, double-checking to make sure
that the polarity (+ & -) is correct.
❑Reinstall the battery cover and set the transmitter aside for now.
●Tyres and Wheels (Glued)
●Body Clips
●Decal Set
●Yellow Plastic Parts Set
Upgrading your transmitter to use rechargeable NiCad/Ni-MH cells is easy.
All you need to do is purchase 8 AA rechargeable NiCad/Ni-MH cells
and an overnight charger. This will allow you to recharge the batteries
without removing them from the transmitter and it will save you money
in the long run, since you won't need to purchase Alkaline batteries
when they run low.
PISTOL GRIP TRANSMITTER UPGRADE TIP
❑Install the wheels onto the chassis, making sure to tighten the wheel retaining nuts
rmly, using a 17mm socket wrench.
✩Notice that the back of the wheels are moulded to key over the hex-shaped wheel
hubs. All four wheels and tyres are the same.
●Plastic Receiver Antenna Tube
●Toe-Angle Adjustment Blocks
● Air lter Assembly
●Allen Keys & Wrenches
Continued On Next Page

Page 8
❑Install 4 AA Alkaline batteries into the battery holder, double-checking to make sure
that the polarity (+ & -) is correct.
IMPORTANT Make sure that the batteries are pushed rmly into place. They should
not be loose. For additional security we recommend tting an elastic band or similar
around the battery holder which will prevent the cells from coming loose when doing
jumps, etc. If for any reason the plug from the battery holder (male red plug) is not
plugged into the switch (female red plug), plug them together now. The plugs can
t together only one way.
❑Remove the four screws from the receiver mounting box cover, then remove the
cover.
❑Uncoil the receiver antenna and feed it out through the hole in the antenna mount.
❑Reinstall the cover, making sure not to pinch any of the wires.
❑Check to ensure the ON/OFF switch is in the 'OFF' position.
❑Open the battery box cover by removing the retaining clip and pulling up on the front of
the cover. The battery box cover is hinged at the back for convenience.
❑Remove the battery holder from the battery box.
❑Slide the receiver antenna into one end of the plastic antenna tube and out
the other end.
PRO TIP We recommend applying the smallest amount of lubricant (shock oil, etc.) to the
tip of the receiver antenna to more easily thread it through the antenna tube.
❑ Push the end of the antenna tube rmly into the antenna mount (you may have to loosen
the nut), then gently tighten the nut to lock the antenna tube into place.
IMPORTANT Leave the excess antenna hanging from the top of the tube. Under no
circumstances should you cut the antenna shorter.
Continued On Next Page
❑Reinstall the battery holder into the battery box and secure the battery box cover back into place, using the retaining clip provided.
If you would like to upgrade to a rechargeable NiMH battery pack, instead of using Alkaline dry cells, we suggest
using a high-quality 5 cell 1000mAH NiMH RX Battery Pack. Not only will this battery pack be rechargeable,
but because it's a 5-cell battery, it will operate the servos at a higher power rating and faster speed.
We also suggest upgrading the on/off switch to one that includes a separate charge cord.
This will allow you to charge the receiver battery without removing the battery box cover.
When installing the switch, make sure that you leave the charge cord outside of the
receiver box, but secured to the chassis, so it doesn't get damaged.
WARNING Never attempt to recharge non-rechargeable batteries. The batteries could explode
and cause serious injury.
X-TERMINATOR 2 RTR 4WD NITRO BUGGY UPGRADE TIP

Page 9
❑Slide the receiver's on/off switch to turn the receiver on. You should hear the servos
move to their proper positions.
STEP 2: RANGE CHECKING THE RADIO CONTROL SYSTEM
To ensure that the radio control system is operating properly and to prevent any chance of a runaway model, the radio control
system should be range checked before the rst run of the day and/or after a crash. To range check the radio control system,
do the following:
❑With the transmitter and receiver turned on, extend the transmitter antenna completely.
❑With the X-Terminator 2 RTR 4WD Nitro Buggy on the ground (without the engine running) walk away from it about 75 feet
(25M). Move the steering wheel while looking at the Nitro Buggy's wheels. The wheels should pivot back and forth as you rotate
the steering wheel back and forth.
IMPORTANT If the radio system does not operate properly, please refer to the troubleshooting guide on page # 22 before
continuing further. Never attempt to operate your X-Terminator 2 RTR 4WD Nitro Buggy if the radio control system is not
functioning properly.
X-TERMINATOR 2 RTR 4WD NITRO BUGGY SAFETY TIP
Always turn on the transmitter rst, followed by the receiver. After you're done, turn
off the receiver rst, then turn off the transmitter. This will prevent the possibility of a
runaway model or damage to the servos.
STEP 3: DOUBLE-CHECK THE STEERING AND THROTTLE/BRAKE CONTROLS
PRO TIP We suggest doing the steering tests while lifting the front of the chassis off the ground. This will allow the steering
system to operate smoothly, without any binding.
❑Slide the transmitter's ON/OFF switch up to turn on the transmitter. The green LED
should glow brightly. Some transmitters have both a green and red LED.
IMPORTANT Your transmitter has power indicator LEDs. Check your radio instructions
to ensure that the batteries you are using (dry or rechargeable) have sufcient power
to operate the set.
❑With the transmitter and the receiver turned on, rotate the
transmitter's wheel forward (to the right). The front wheels should
turn right.
IMPORTANT If the wheels don't turn right, ip the steering servo
reversing switch on the transmitter to change the direction that the
front wheels turn. Refer to the transmitter information on page # 5 if
you don't remember how to use the servo reversing switches.
Continued On Next Page

Page 10
X-TERMINATOR 2 RTR 4WD NITRO BUGGY UPGRADE TIP
To prevent your X-Terminator 2 RTR 4WD Nitro Buggy from going out of control should the radio
control system encounter signal loss, we suggest using an electronic failsafe. The failsafe is con-
nected between the throttle/brake servo and the receiver. The failsafe is designed to electronically bring
the throttle to idle and apply a preset amount of braking force should the radio control system lose
its signal.
❑Rotate the transmitter's wheel backward (to the left). The
front wheels should turn left.
❑Let go of the transmitter wheel. The wheels should return to centre.
IMPORTANT If the wheels do not point straight ahead (centre) after
you return the transmitter wheel to centre, turn the steering trim dial
on the transmitter to adjust the wheels so that they point straight
ahead. Refer to the transmitter information on page # 5 if you don't
remember how to use the servo trim dial.
❑Pull back on the throttle trigger. The carburettor barrel should
open completely and the brakes should be disengaged (i.e., the
X-Terminator 2 RTR 4WD Nitro Buggy should roll forward smoothly
when pushed).
❑Let go of the throttle trigger and the carburettor barrel should return
to its idle position - open about 1/16" (1mm). The brakes should still be
disengaged, too. If the brakes are not disengaged when the throttle is at
the idle position, see page # 17 "Adjusting the Brake Linkage".
IMPORTANT If the carburettor barrel does not open when you pull
back on the throttle trigger, ip the throttle servo reversing switch on
the transmitter to change the servo's direction.
PRO TIP If the carburettor barrel does not open completely, turn the throttle trim dial on the transmitter until the carburettor barrel
opens completely when you pull back fully on the throttle trigger.
❑Push the throttle trigger forward. The carburettor barrel should
stay in the idle position (open about 1/16" (1mm)) and the brake
linkage should move forward and engage the brakes (i.e., the
X-Terminator 2 RTR 4WD Nitro Buggy will not be able to roll at
all when pushed).
❑Let go of the throttle trigger and the brakes should disengage.
IMPORTANT If you need to adjust the brake linkage, see page #
17 "Adjusting the Brake Linkage".
Continued On Next Page

Page 11
STEP 4: INSTALLING THE AIR FILTER
BECOMING FAMILIAR WITH THE XTM RACING 24.7 NITRO ENGINE
Refer to the photo at left to familiarise yourself with your engine's carburettor.
All of the carburettor settings come preset from the factory for initial starting
and break-in, but you should have a small at blade screwdriver handy to
make adjustments to the carburettor during the break-in process, which will
be detailed in the next section.
WARNING!! PLEASE READ THIS INFORMATION BEFORE PROCEEDING!!
Your X-Terminator 2 RTR 4WD Nitro Buggy comes equipped with the user-friendly and powerful XTM Racing 24.7 nitro engine.
Before starting the engine for the rst time, you MUST read this, and the next two sections very carefully. This section details the
different parts of the engine's carburettor and how to adjust the carburettor's needle valves to tune the engine. Failure to read
this information may result in your not knowing how to properly operate your new engine. Not knowing how to operate
your new engine can result in damage to the engine.
Continued On Next Page
❑ Remove the foam air lter element from the plastic bag and push it onto the air lter
base. Secure the top of the air lter into place, using the screw provided.
IMPORTANT The foam air lter element comes wetted with air lter oil from the factory.
See the information below on how to clean and re-wet the foam air lter element when
it gets dirty.
❑ Slip the elbow onto the base of the air lter and secure it into place, using one nylon
cable tie; then slip the air lter assembly over the base of the carburettor and secure it into
place, using a second nylon cable tie.
To clean the air lter, remove the air lter
element and wash it thoroughly in warm
water and a small amount of liquid detergent.
After it's clean, allow it to dry, then reoil it
and install it back onto the air lter housing.
To wet the air lter element, simply squeeze
an ample amount of air lter oil or after-run
oil onto the lter element and work it through
the lter element, using your ngers. Use
enough oil to completely saturate the lter
element. The endesensi lter element should be oiled, but not so much that excess oil is dripping from it.
the engine will not be covered under warranty should it need repair.
If you will be running your X-Terminator 2 RTR 4WD
Nitro Buggy in dusty or wet conditions, we suggest
using a prelter sleeve over the air lter. Wet the
main lter element, then simply slide the prelter
sleeve over the main lter. It's not necessary, nor
desirable, to wet the prelter sleeve. We suggest
using XTM Racing 1/8th Scale Prelter Sleeves
(P/N 149412).
X-TERMINATOR 2 RTR 4WD NITRO BUGGY UPGRADE TIP
PRO TIP We recommend placing the cleaned air lter element in a plastic bag and then applying the air lter oil on it, which allows
you to work the oil into the element without getting excess oil on your hands.

Page 12
LOW SPEED NEEDLE VALVE:
The low speed needle valve is preset from the factory for the initial starting procedure. Do
not make adjustments to it at this time. The low speed needle valve meters the air/fuel
mixture at idle and during transition from idle to full throttle. Turn the low speed needle
valve clockwise to lean the mixture. Turn the low speed needle valve counterclockwise
to richen the mixture. The low speed needle valve is preset from the factory, but minor
adjustments may need to be made to suit your application: fuel used, glow plug and
environment all contribute to the setting.
VALVE UNTIL AFTER THE ENGINE HAS BEEN BROKEN IN.
If you need to reset the low speed needle valve to the factory setting, follow these simple procedures:
●Open the carburettor barrel completely.
● While holding the carburettor barrel open with your ngers, use a at blade screwdriver to turn the low speed needle valve
clockwise until it stops. Do not force it. From this point, turn the low speed needle valve counterclockwise 3 full turns. This
is the factory setting.
IMPORTANT TIP ABOUT RESETTING THE LOW SPEED NEEDLE VALVE
IDLE STOP SCREW:
The idle stop screw adjusts the closure of the carburettor barrel. We recommend that
the idle stop screw be adjusted so that the carburettor barrel stays open about 1/16"
(1mm). Turning the screw clockwise will cause the barrel to stay open more. Turning
the screw counterclockwise will allow the barrel to close more. If the carburettor barrel
stays open too far, the engine will idle very high and the clutch will never disengage. This
will damage the clutch very quickly. If the idle stop screw is closed too far, the engine
may die during idle. Ideally, the engine should idle smoothly, yet slow enough so
that the clutch stays disengaged.
HIGH SPEED NEEDLE VALVE:
The high speed needle valve is preset from the factory for the initial starting procedure. Do
not make adjustments to it at this time. The high speed needle valve is used to meter
the air/fuel mixture at full throttle. Turn the needle valve clockwise to lean the mixture or
turn the needle valve counterclockwise to richen the mixture.
THE FACTORY SETTING FOR THE HIGH SPEED NEEDLE VALVE IS 3.5 TURNS OUT
FROM BOTTOM (FULLY CLOSED). Check to ensure that the high speed needle is set at
3.5 full turns out from closed before commencing run-in.
FUELING AND STARTING THE XTM RACING 24.7 NITRO ENGINE
If at any time the pull-starter becomes very tight or difcult to pull - STOP! The engine has become ooded and the excess
fuel must be removed from the engine or damage to the pull-starter and/or engine could occur. To remove the excess fuel
from the engine follow the procedures listed below:
●Completely close the high speed needle valve until it bottoms out. Do this gently. Don't force it!
●Remove the glow plug and washer from the cylinder head.
●With a rag over the top of the engine, pull the pull-starter cord several times to expel the excess fuel from the engine.
●Check to make sure that the glow plug has not been fouled, then reinstall it and its washer.
●Reset the high speed needle valve 3.5 full turns out from bottom (fully closed).
WARNING!! PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE STARTING YOUR ENGINE FOR THE FIRST TIME!!
WARNING Under no circumstances should you operate the engine without the air lter installed on the carburettor. The air lter prevents
dust and debris from entering the engine and damaging it. If you operate your engine at any time without the air lter installed, the engine
will not be covered under warranty should it need repair.
Continued On Next Page

Page 13
❑ Lift the fuel tank lid and carefully ll the fuel tank until the fuel level is just below
the top of the fuel tank.
WARNING Use fuel that is appropriate for nitro car and buggy engines. Do not
use gasoline/petrol or diesel fuel! For the break-in period you should use fuel
nitromethane.
❑Using your glow plug wrench, verify that the glow plug is installed in the cylinder head and tight. If it's not already preinstalled,
install it, using one copper gasket.
❑ Prime the engine by rst opening the throttle completely and covering the exhaust
opening in the tuned pipe with your nger, then pull the pull-starter cord several times until
you see fuel just start to enter the carburettor through the fuel line.
IMPORTANT Do not pull the pull-starter cord all the way out or damage to the pull-starter
will occur. Use a couple of short pulls - about 7 or 8 inches (18~20cm) long.
❑ Remove your nger from the tuned pipe opening and close the throttle down to
the idle position (see page 12).
IMPORTANT TIP ABOUT GLOW PLUGS
An XTM Racing # 4 Medium Heat-Range glow plug is included with your engine. We suggest having a couple of extra glow
plugs handy, because it can be expected that glow plugs will wear out quickly during the engine's break-in process. This glow
plug will suit most users during the break-in process. You may or may not need to change to a different type of glow plug after
break-in is complete.
There are a variety of different heat range glow plugs to suit your engine.
Typically, use a hotter glow plug if you're using 15% - 20% nitro fuel or
are running in cooler ambient temperatures. Hotter glow plugs typically
improve idle and transition, too. Use a cooler glow plug if you're running 25% - 30% nitro fuel or are running in higher ambient
temperatures. SEE TIP ON PAGE # 16 ABOUT RUNNING 30% NITRO FUEL.
(P/N 146020) XTM Racing # 3 Glow Plug - Hot
(P/N 147025) SH Engines # 5 Glow Plug - Cold
❑Connect a fully charged glow starter to the top of the glow plug, making sure that
the glow starter is locked rmly onto the top of the glow plug. You don't want it to fall off
while you're trying to start the engine.
When the engine is new, it can sometimes be difcult to turn over using the pull-starter.
You may nd you need to pull the pull-starter harder than you expect. A trick to help this
is to loosen the glow plug slightly, start the engine, then remove the glow starter and
retighten the glow plug. This effectively lessens the engine's compression, making it
easier to turn over with the pull-starter.
NEW ENGINE STARTING TIP
Continued On Next Page
IMPORTANT We recommend that you place the chassis on a dedicated car stand
or similar so that all four wheels are suspended free from the ground. This ensures
that your car does not accidentally drive away at the point of starting if the idle
setting is too high.
❑ While holding the X-Terminator 2 RTR 4WD Nitro Buggy rmly with one hand, carefully
pull on the pull-starter cord 3 times, using short, quick pulls.
IMPORTANT If you can't turn the engine over using the pull-starter, don't force it. The
engine is probably ooded. See the warning and resolution on page # 12.

Page 14
❑With the throttle still in the idle position, hold the X-Terminator 2 RTR 4WD Nitro
Buggy rmly with one hand and carefully pull on the pull-starter cord, using short, quick
pulls, until the engine starts.
❑After the engine starts, release the pull-starter cord, allow the engine to run for about
10 seconds, then remove the glow starter from the glow plug.
IMPORTANT If the engine does not start after a dozen pulls, refer to the troubleshooting
guide on page # 22.
❑Once the engine is running, to stop the engine, carefully pinch the fuel line with your
ngers until the engine stops. Make sure to pinch the fuel pick-up line and not the fuel
pressure line. The fuel pick-up line is the one connected to the carburettor.
PRO TIP When you pinch the fuel line to stop the engine, you must pinch it hard and hold
it. The engine will rev up quickly, then die. We suggest holding the X-Terminator 2 RTR
4WD Nitro Buggy while doing this, so that it doesn't lurch out of your hands.
WARNING Be careful not to touch any parts of the engine or the tuned pipe because they
will be hot. Also be careful to avoid moving parts.
Until you're actually ready to break in the engine, do not run the engine for more than a few minutes. If you run the engine longer without
breaking in the engine properly, damage to the engine can occur. Break-in will be done in the next section.
WARNING ABOUT RUNNING YOUR ENGINE FOR THE FIRST TIME
BREAKING IN THE XTM RACING 24.7 NITRO ENGINE
The XTM Racing 24.7 engine is an ABC engine. The cylinder sleeve (liner) is tapered at the top, causing severe resistance when the
piston moves through the top of the stroke. This is normal. When the engine heats up to operating temperature, this resistance will
decrease and the proper clearance will be achieved. The break-in procedure will guide you through the steps necessary to properly
break in your new engine. Please follow the steps closely.
FUEL RECOMMENDATION:
For the break-in period you should use a fuel specically designed for R/C car
engines that contains no more than 20% nitromethane and 10%~14% oil content.
Once the engine has been adequately broken in (about 45 minutes of run-time) you
can switch to an R/C car fuel containing up to, but no more than, 30% nitromethane and
10%~14% oil content.
WARNING We do not recommend using fuels designed for R/C aircraft engine
use. These fuels do not contain the proper amount of lubricants; therefore,
they will cause the engine to overheat or run erratically and severe damage
to the engine can result.
ENGINE BREAK-IN TIP
To make sure that you're not leaning
out the eng in e too m u c h a n d
overheating it during the break-in
process, we suggest using a temp gun to
monitor the engine's temperature.
During break-in, engine temperature
should not exceed 270ºF. The
optimum engine temperature is
210~230ºF. The minimum engine
temperature is 180ºF.
GLOW PLUG RECOMMENDATION:
The glow plug can make a big difference in how your engine performs. We recommend using a "medium" or "hot" heat-range
glow plug intended specically for performance engines like the XTM Racing # 4 (P/N 146021 ) during the break-in process. After
the break-in period you may want to use a different heat-range glow plug. Use a colder glow plug like the SH Engines # 5 (P/N
147025) if you're using 30% nitro fuel. Do not use glow plugs intended for four stroke aircraft engines or glow plugs with an "idle
bar". Using the wrong type of glow plug will cause the engine to run erratically and make it difcult to tune properly. The wrong
type of glow plug could also damage the engine.
AIR FILTER:
The air lter is a very important part of your engine. Failure to use the air lter will damage the engine in a very short period
of time. Make sure that you use a prefilter sleeve (P/N 149412) if you are driving in dusty or wet conditions. See page # 11
for more information.
Continued On Next Page

Page 15
If, during the break-in process, the pull-start assembly slips when you try to start the
engine, the one-way bearing and pull-start shaft may be coated with excess fuel oil.
This can occur because the excess oil in the engine during the break-in process gets
into the one-way bearing. To x this, carefully remove the one-way bearing and the
pull-start shaft, clean them with rubbing alcohol and reassemble the parts. Use the
engine exploded parts view to see how the parts are assembled. Also, be careful when
removing the pull-start assembly to ensure that the recoil spring does not uncoil and y
out. After removing the screws securing the pull-start carefully insert a flat bladed
screwdriver or similar between the engine backplate and the pull-start itself. Apply
slight pressure against the pull-start to help prevent the pull-start spring from unwinding. Temporarily
secure the pull-start with a rubber band or tape whilst cleaning the one-way parts and be very careful when reassembling the unit.
ENGINE BREAK-IN TIP: "WHY IS MY PULL-STARTER SLIPPING?"
STEP 1: BREAKING IN THE ENGINE
WARNING Do not adjust the low speed needle valve until after the engine has been broken in. You can begin to adjust the low speed
needle valve after you have broken in the engine and after you have read and understood Step 2: Fine Tuning the Engine below. The
high speed needle valve is preset from the factory for easy starting in most conditions for the break-in period.
❑ Follow the previous procedures to ll the fuel tank and start the engine.
❑Once the engine starts, keep the glow starter attached to the glow plug and
let the engine run for about 10 seconds without giving it throttle. This will allow
the engine to warm up. At this point the engine should be running very "rich" and
the engine will also sound like it's running rough.
❑After the engine has been running for about 10 seconds, remove the glow starter from the glow plug. Advance the throttle in short,
quick bursts and drive the X-Terminator 2 RTR 4WD Nitro Buggy for about 2~3 minutes. If the engine is running rich enough, you should
notice smoke coming from the tuned pipe and the engine should sound like it’s running very rough. Also, the Nitro Buggy will barely be
moving because the engine is running so rich that it won't produce much power. This is what you want for now. If there is not smoke
coming from the tuned pipe, richen the high speed needle valve 1/4 turn (turn counterclockwise). After 2~3 minutes stop the engine by
pinching the fuel line to the carburettor.
❑Let the engine cool for approximately 10 minutes, then restart it. Set the high speed needle valve mixture to a slightly
leaner setting, about 1/8 turn more in (turn clockwise). Repeat the procedure above, then stop the engine and let it cool for
approximately 10 minutes.
❑Repeat the procedure above, leaning the high speed needle valve 1/8 turn more each time. In all, you should run the engine a total of
about 45 minutes. After 45 minutes of run-time the engine will be broken in. Run the engine with the high speed needle valve set slightly
rich, but lean enough to power the X-Terminator 2 RTR 4WD Nitro Buggy adequately. At this point the engine should hold a good setting
on the high speed needle valve and you can begin to ne tune the needle valve settings to increase performance.
IMPORTANT It is of the utmost importance that the engine never be leaned out too much. When running the engine, you
should always be able to see a slight trail of smoke coming from the tuned pipe. If you can’t, stop the engine immediately
and richen the high speed needle valve. You should also make sure there is plenty of air owing over the cylinder head to
keep the engine from overheating.
ENGINE BREAK-IN TIP
Break in the engine by running on a at surface (car
park/parking lot, etc.) without the body installed. It's
important that the engine have adequate airow
during the break-in process.
ENGINE BREAK-IN TIP
During break-in, it's normal for
excess fuel oil and exhaust
residue to drip from the tuned
pipe.
After your engine has been broken in, you can set the high and low speed needle valves for optimum engine performance.
STEP 2: FINE TUNING THE ENGINE
Be careful to never lean out the engine too much. Remember that the lubricants for your engine are suspended in the fuel. If you lean
out the fuel mixture too much you will also be lowering the amount of lubricant entering your engine. Less lubricant means more
chance of your engine overheating and possible engine failure.
WARNING ABOUT TUNING YOUR ENGINE
Continued On Next Page
No two engines have the exact same needle valve settings once broken in. Different fuels, types
and heat-ranges of glow plugs, outside air temperature and air pressure all affect the engine. The
factory needle valve settings on page 12 are break-in settings. If you reset the needle valves to
the factory settings, the engine will run very rich and you will need to retune the engine.
ENGINE TUNING TIP

Page 16
SETTING THE HIGH SPEED NEEDLE VALVE:
❑Start the engine and remove the glow starter from the glow plug, then allow the engine to warm up for about 10 seconds.
❑After the engine has warmed up, drive the X-Terminator 2 RTR 4WD Nitro Buggy as you normally would. If the engine seems
to be running rich (i.e., not reaching maximum power), lean the high speed needle valve about 1/16 of a turn (turn clockwise)
at a time until the desired setting is achieved. Always make sure that you run the engine slightly rich - you want to be able to
see a faint exhaust trail at all times.
SETTING THE LOW SPEED NEEDLE VALVE:
❑Start the engine and lean out the high speed needle valve as per the procedures above. Close the throttle until the engine slows down
enough so that the clutch is disengaged and the wheels don’t
turn when the X-Terminator 2 RTR 4WD Nitro Buggy is lifted from
the ground. Allow the engine to idle for about 10~15 seconds.
❑Whilst holding the Nitro Buggy off the ground (making sure
to keep your ngers away from the moving parts), quickly open
the throttle in a short burst. If the engine just stops running as
soon as the throttle is advanced, the low speed needle valve
is too lean and the engine is not getting enough fuel. With the
engine stopped, richen the low speed needle valve about 1/16
of a turn (counterclockwise).
❑Restart the engine and repeat the procedure above until
the engine will transition smoothly and quickly. Very slight
hesitation in the transition is normal.
❑If you quickly advance the throttle and the engine seems to be very rich during transition (i.e., lots of smoke coming from the tuned
pipe and very rough sounding), the low speed needle valve is too rich and the engine is getting too much fuel. With the engine stopped,
lean the low speed needle valve about 1/16 of a turn (clockwise).
❑Restart the engine and repeat the procedure above until the engine will transition smoothly and quickly. Very slight hesitation
in the transition is normal.
❑Now drive the X-Terminator 2 RTR 4WD Nitro Buggy as you normally would for a while to get a feel for how the engine reacts to throttle.
Now that you know the proper way to tune the engine, you can make slight adjustments to the carburettor until you are satised with the
performance.
To keep your engine operating at peak performance there are some basic maintenance procedures that need to be performed
on the engine on a regular basis:
● After you are nished running the engine for the day, pinch the fuel line to stop the engine. This will allow the engine to burn
any excess fuel out of the crankcase.
● Remove the air lter element and wash it thoroughly in warm water and a small amount of liquid detergent. After it's clean, allow it to
dry, then reoil it and install it back into the air lter housing.
●Remove the glow plug and washer from the engine and squirt several drops of high-quality after-run oil into the glow plug hole. Pull the
pull-start cord several times to distribute the oil throughout the engine, then reinstall the glow plug and washer. The after-run oil will prevent
the inside of the engine (especially the crankshaft bearings) from rusting.
KEEP IT SMOOTH
Loop four nylon ZIP ties around the
corners of the engine's cylinder head,
making sure that the ratchet portion of
the ties are up toward you. When your
Nitro Buggy ips over, the ZIP ties will
prevent the cylinder head from being
scratched and gouged.
BASIC ENGINE MAINTENANCE
●Clean the outside of the engine using a heavy brush and nitro
car cleaner, then dry the engine, using a rag or compressed air.
●Periodically check the condition of the clutch to check for wear.
●Periodically oil the clutch bell bearings.
●Check the engine's cylinder head bolts and backplate screws
after each day of use to ensure that they're tight. This will prevent
air leaks from causing erratic engine performance.
PLEASE READ IF YOU'RE USING 30% NITRO FUEL
To get more power from your engine you can use fuels
containing up to 30% nitromethane. We must caution
you, though, that once you run the engine with
increased nitro you may not get satisfactory results
if you decide to go back to a lower nitro content.
Also, if you use fuels containing 30% nitro, we
suggest adding a .10mm head gasket (P/N 148418)
to lower the compression ratio. If you don’t lower the
compression ratio, overheating and erratic running
will likely occur.

Page 17
INSTALLING THE BODY
APPLYING THE DECALS:
❑Carefully peel the protective layer from off the top of the body.
IMPORTANT The body is covered by a thin plastic protective layer at the factory that prevents damage to the body during assembly
and shipping. This protective layer must be removed before you apply the decals.
❑Remove the decals from their protective backing and adhere them onto the body as you like.
INSTALLING THE BODY:
❑Fit the body onto the chassis, using the body clips provided to hold it in place.
❑Double-check that the body does not interfere with the wheels, the suspension or the tuned pipe. If it does, you will need to
trim the body slightly to t around those areas.
PRO TIP Other than during the break-in period, always make sure that you install the body when driving your X-Terminator 2 RTR 4WD
Nitro Buggy. When your Nitro Buggy ips over, the body will help protect the chassis and its components.
X-TERMINATOR 2 RTR 4WD NITRO BUGGY TUNING GUIDE
Chassis alignment and geometry are important if you want your X-Terminator 2 RTR 4WD Nitro Buggy to perform well. A good performing
vehicle means a vehicle that is easier to drive, too. Follow our guidelines in this section to get the most out of your Nitro Buggy.
IMPORTANT It's very important when making changes to the settings of your X-Terminator 2 RTR 4WD Nitro Buggy that you make
the settings the same for each side. For example, if you change the spring tension on the right front shock, you should change the
spring tension on the left front shock the same amount, etc.
Do not make any changes that are more than 3 degrees from the initial settings listed or the handling characteristics of your X-Terminator
2 RTR 4WD Nitro Buggy will become very poor.
The brake linkage on your X-Terminator 2 RTR 4WD Nitro Buggy is preset from the factory; however, after running the Nitro
Buggy for a while you may nd that the brake linkage needs adjusting. Follow the information below to check and adjust the
brake linkage:
With the transmitter and receiver turned on, and the throttle/brake trim lever centred,
the X-Terminator 2 RTR 4WD Nitro Buggy should roll forward smoothly (i.e., the brakes
should be disengaged). If the brakes are dragging when the throttle trigger is at neutral, the
brake discs will wear out very quickly. To ensure that the brakes are disengaged, always
make sure that there is a 1/16" (1mm) wide gap between the two rear steel adjustment
collars and the brake levers. Both steel adjustment collars should be adjusted so that they
are equal distance behind each of the two brake levers. This will ensure that both brake
levers engage equally during braking.
●To make adjustments to the brake linkage, simply use a 1.5mm hex wrench to loosen
the grub screw in the adjustment collars behind the brake levers and reposition them, then
retighten the grub screws. MOVING THE COLLARS FORWARD, TOWARD THE BRAKE LEVERS, WILL RESULT IN THE BRAKES
COMING ON SOONER AND MORE FORCEFULLY.
Continued On Next Page
Since the front and rear brakes can be adjusted independently of each other, you may not want both front and rear brakes to engage
at the same time. If you want the rear brakes to engage just before the front brakes, move the collar at the front brake lever just a
fraction further back from neutral. This will result in the back brakes engaging just before the front brakes. If you want the front brakes
to engage just before the rear brakes, move the collar at the rear brake lever just a fraction further back from neutral. This will result
in the front brakes engaging just before the back brakes. Experimentation will be necessary to achieve the desired braking response,
dependant on your track conditions and driving style.

Page 18
The toe angle is the angle of both front tyres (or rear tyres) to each other, when viewed from above. Toe-in is when the front of both tyres
point toward each other and toe-out is when the front of both tyres point away from each other.
●For the front tyres, toe-in will make your X-Terminator 2 RTR 4WD Nitro Buggy track (run) straighter, but the steering will be more
sensitive. Toe-out will desensitise the steering, making the Nitro Buggy a little more driver-friendly.
●For the rear tyres, if you're running on a smooth surface, we suggest no toe-in. If you are running on a rough surface, we suggest about
1 ~ 2 degrees of toe-in. This will give the rear end a little more "bite."
RECOMMENDED INITIAL SETTINGS:
●0 degrees toe-in on the front and 2º on the rear for overall best 4WD driveability
on most surfaces.
✩Adding more than 3 degrees of toe-in or toe-out on the front will result in excessive
loss of speed and erratic handling. Toe adjustments should be measured with the vehicle
at its normal ride height.
IMPORTANT For more precise toe adjustments, use a dedicated toe-adjustment gauge,
available at most hobby retailers.
● To change the rear toe angle block, rst remove the two screws from the bottom of
the chassis that hold the toe angle block screw guard in place, then remove the screw
guard from the chassis.
●Next, remove the two screws that hold the toe angle block in place, then carefully pull out
the toe angle block, being careful not to pull out the hinge pins.
●Install the desired toe angle block. Installation is the reverse of the disassembly
procedure.
To adjust the toe-angle of the front tyres, turn the tie-rods (steel rods connecting each wheel to the steering arm) in or out with the adjustable
wrench supplied. To adjust the toe angle of the rear tyres, you need to replace the toe angle block, described below:
To adjust the toe-in on the rear tyres, use one of the different composite toe angle blocks provided in your kit to set the desired toe angle.
For convenience, the degree of toe angle in each block is moulded into the back of the blocks. The stock toe-angle block is 2º.
Camber is referred to as the amount of the tyre's surface that contacts the ground. Tyres that are exactly perpendicular to the ground
have 0 degrees of camber. If the top of the tyre leans in toward the chassis, the tyre has negative camber. If the top of the tyre leans
out away from the chassis, the tyre has positive camber.
RECOMMENDED INITIAL CAMBER SETTINGS:
●For driving on smooth surfaces set both the front and back wheels at 0 degrees.
●For driving on rough surfaces set the front wheels at -1 degree and the back wheels at -2 degrees.
Adjust the camber angle of the wheels by turning the upper turnbuckles in or out using an adjustable wrench.
✩Camber settings should be measured
with the vehicle at its normal ride height.
IM POR TAN T For more precise
camber adjustments, use a dedicated
camber gauge, available at most hobby
retailers.
Continued On Next Page

Page 19
By adjusting the spring tension of the shocks, you can increase steering sensitivity, adjust the ride-height of the X-Terminator 2 RTR
4WD Nitro Buggy and ne-tune the dampening quality of the suspension system. How you drive your Nitro Buggy will dictate what settings
you should be using. As an example, if you're driving your X-Terminator 2 RTR 4WD Nitro Buggy off-road and going over lots of jumps, you
may want to increase the spring tension of the front shocks to help prevent the front of the Nitro Buggy from bottoming out. If you're racing
your X-Terminator 2 RTR 4WD Nitro Buggy, local track conditions will dictate the settings to use.
RECOMMENDED INITIAL SETTINGS:
●We recommend initially leaving the adjustment rings in the factory locations.
Increase or decrease spring tension by threading the adjustment ring up or down
the shock body.
Threading the ring down increases spring tension and the chassis's ride height, and
will stiffen the overall dampening characteristics of the suspension. Threading the
ring up decreases spring tension and makes the dampening characteristics of the
suspension softer.
✩When adjusting the spring tension, make sure to adjust the right and left sides
equally.
Changing the shock oil (the oil inside the shocks) will change the dampening characteristics of the
shocks. Typically, if you are running on smooth surfaces, use a heavier weight oil. If you are running
on rough surfaces, use a lighter weight oil.
IMPORTANT We recommend using only 100% Silicone Shock Oil. Do not use motor oil. The stock
shock oil used in the X-Terminator 2 RTR 4WD Nitro Buggy is 30Wt shock oil. This is good for all-around
use. For racing, you may want to consider using 35Wt - 40Wt shock oil.
Shock springs are easy to change and can make a difference in the way your X-Terminator 2 RTR 4WD Nitro Buggy handles relative to the
type of terrain you're driving on. If you drive your Nitro Buggy off-road, in a smooth, high-traction area, use stiffer springs to reduce body
roll and weight shift. If the area where you drive your Nitro Buggy is very bumpy, you might consider using softer springs to help absorb the
bumps. If the area is bumpy and you use harder springs, the Nitro Buggy will have a tendency to jump and hop around. The shock springs
included with the X-Terminator 2 RTR 4WD Nitro Buggy are suitable for most general off-road applications.
Continued On Next Page
The upper hinge pins can be moved up and down to adjust bump steer. Generally, if you move the hinge pins into a lower position,
this will increase bump steer, which can be helpful on tight tracks. For a larger track, you may want to move the hinge pins to a
higher position to decrease bump steer.
RECOMMENDED INITIAL SETTINGS:
●We recommend initially leaving the upper hinge pins in the factory locations.
Adjust bump steer by removing the upper hinge pins and reinstalling them, along with the
upper suspension arms, in a hole either further up or lower down.
NOTE: When tightening the hex nut on the back of the hinge pins, be careful not to
overtighten them or the hinge pins may not pivot freely.
✩When adjusting the hinge pin positions, make sure to adjust the right and left sides
equally.
149356 and 149372 1.3mm Shock Spring (RED)
149354 and 149370 1.4mm Shock Spring (BLUE)
149352 and 149366 1.5mm Shock Spring (WHITE) - STOCK
149350 and 149363 1.6mm Shock Spring (YELLOW)
149349 and 149364 1.7mm Shock Spring (BLACK)
FRONT REAR
SOFT
STIFF

Page 20
The X-Terminator 2 RTR 4WD Nitro Buggy features front, centre and rear gear differentials that each feature o-ring seals and cup-style
housings. All three differentials are packed with differential grease that is good for most driving conditions.
You can make ne-tuned adjustments to each differential by removing the differentials from the chassis, opening them up and replacing
the grease already inside the differentials with silicone differential oil.
●Front and Rear Differentials: Adding heavier silicone oil will tighten the differentials and adding lighter silicone oil will loosen
the differentials. If your X-Terminator 2 RTR 4WD Nitro Buggy feels 'loose' (uncontrollable) during turns, you can tighten the
front differential or loosen the rear differential. If your Nitro Buggy is 'pushing' (understeer) during turns, you can loosen the front
differential or tighten the rear differential.
●Centre Differential: For the centre differential, using a lighter weight oil will cause the differential to unload easier. Generally, this is
good for loose tracks with little traction. Using a heavier weight will provide a more even amount of power to the front and rear. On loose
tracks, this can cause the X-Terminator 2 RTR 4WD Nitro Buggy to be too 'squirrely' (uncontrollable) or cause the rear end to slide out.
For this reason, we only suggest using heavier oil if you are driving on a high-traction surface.
For general use, we recommend using XTM Racing 50K oil in the centre, 30K in the front and 10K in the rear. Some might consider
this light, but it's a pretty good starting point. If the track or tyres seem to have a lot of traction, then you might use 70K in the centre,
50K in the front and either 50K or 30K in the rear.
For your convenience, we show you how to remove and disassemble the front differential. Removing and disassembling the
centre and rear differential is similar.
●Remove the screws from the bottom of the chassis that hold the
front bumper and the differential assembly in place.
●Use a small flat
blade screwdriver to
pry the screw cover off
the front of the bumper
and remove the two
screws from inside the
bumper, then remove
the bumper.
●Next, remove the
upper hinge pins, then
remove the screws
that hold the upper
hi ng e pin support
plate in place.
R e move the upper
and lower hinge pin
support plates.
●Pull the front half of the diff case straight out, then remove the
hinge pins and drop the lower suspension arms and pull the diff
assembly straight out.
●Remove the two CVD drive shaft cups from the diff assembly,
then remove the four
screws that hold the
diff halves together.
●Pull the diff halves
apart, then pull the diff
assembly (w/ring gear
attached) out of the
diff housing.
●Remove the four screws that hold the diff case together, then pull
the diff case apart to open up the diff. You can now remove the
grease inside the diff and rell the diff with the differential oil
of your choice, using the instructions below.
Figure 1 Figure 2
Figure 3 Figure 4
Figure 5 Figure 6
1) Apply a light coat of silicone diff oil to the output gear o-rings. DO NOT install the
output gears dry or the diff may leak (gure 1).
2) Install one metal plate, one output gear and the four diff pins into the diff cup
(gure 2).
3) Fill the diff cup 2/3rds of the way full with your choice of silicone diff oil (gure 3).
4) Install the diff gears onto the pins. NOTE: Notice the direction that each gear
is installed (gure 4).
5) After installing the diff gears, ll the diff cup completely with diff oil, then let it "rest"
until any trapped air bubbles disappear. SEE NOTE BELOW.
6) Apply a light coat of silicone diff oil to the large o-ring, then install the o-ring over the
"step" in the diff cup. Next, install the second output gear and metal plate (gure 5).
7) Press the metal diff end-cap into place, then install the ring gear. Tighten the four screws
equally in a criss-cross fashion to prevent warping the diff cup or ring gear (gure 6).
NOTE: It's important that there are no air bubbles in the diff oil. Having too much air in the differential will cause the oil to work inconsistently and result in
poor vehicle performance.
Other manuals for XT2 Racer
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