Zaerotech Z33 v2 User manual

Construction & Setup Guide

aerotech

Kevin J. McDonald

Design by

Fuselage Group Wing Group Tail Group

Legends

Adhesives Thin

Viscosity

Medium

Viscosity

Thick

Viscosity

The viscosity Icons are important due to the ability of adhe-

sives to wick to adjacent areas. Several operations require

thick viscosities so as not to allow the adhesive to find its

way to unwanted areas. They also corresponds to cure

times. Some operations require you have a longer working

time, so read ahead and prepare for the next operation

Tack Moderate Finish

The Zip 33V2 has been designed to take advantage of Cyano based adhesives. However, several

substitutes are available such as epoxies and high quality resin glues for wood. Whether you use

Cyano based adhesives, or your preferred adhesives, throughout construction, the drop chart will

guide you to the quantity of adhesive, and the viscosity required for a given operation. Very little

adhesive is required to build this kit, and a fine nozzle is recommended for all viscosities. Weight

is critical to light air performance, so be conservative when building

Throughout this guide you will see “No Accel-

erants” and “No Adhesive”. Plywood retains

residual chemicals and the use of accelerators

will cause many problems for subsequent

operations by causing premature curing

Some operations may require

silicone adhesive. If you need

to substitute, use a flexible

adhesive that can be

detached with force

Some operations may require the use of accelera-

tors. This is to save you the need for long-term

clamping of the structure. When using non cyano

adhesives, set up clamping methods and consider

tape to hold the parts in place till cured

Accelerator

Adhesive

Accelerator Silicone

Adhesive/Sealant

Silicone

Thank you for purchasing the Z33V2 by Zaerotech. This new version of the Z33 has been designed to give you maximum flexibility in electronic component

selection, as well as allowing for an ePower variant in the same kit

I’ve put a special effort into making this kit technically satisfying for the intermediate to advanced builder. Tolerances are tight, considering the material

and its thickness variations. So take your time, dry fit everything first, don’t overdue the adhesive, but most of all, have fun

Always check the Z33 product page at www.zaerotech.com for the latest construction manual. It updates about once a month, and is a must, to ensure you

have up-to-date information

Download the construction manual and 3D content at Zaerotech.com

Follow the glue guides:

The Zip33V2 is a complex structure.

Don’t be tempted into taking shortcuts

or substituting glue viscosities

Tips

Special tools:

Several parts are included to aid in the precision

construction of the Zip33. In addition, you should

have a small triangle or square approximately 3

inches on the longest side. A small fine tooth saw,

and sandpaper with a selection of blocks and pads

Sanding & Fitting Laser cut parts:

Carefully sand the cut (Black) surfaces with 400 grit . You do not need to remove the

black, just sand to remove the cut tabs, and render a cleaner surface for the adhesive.

Laser cutting systems share the same tolerance limitations common to all CNC equip-

ment. Wood also varies in thickness. Therefore, you may find it necessary to sand or file

some parts to get a flush or aligned fit. Test fit everything before you apply adhesive

Electronics:

Thoroughly test all electronics before

installing. The recommended electronics

have been chosen based on reliability

and robustness. However, testing and

centering before installation is a must

Separating Laser cut parts:

Parts are designed to break-out

easily. You should however, use a

sharp #11 blade. Cut both sides of the

small bridging tab connecting the

wood parts to the sheet

Part Identification Guide

aerotech

Plywood 0.4mm Plywood 0.8mm

Plywood 1.5mm Balsa 2.5mm

Misc

Prep:

Thoroughly clean all parts of any oils or

adhesives. Remove all sharp edges from

metal and plastic parts. Do not overdo it.

Parts are close tolerance, requiring only

minor attention

Hardware

Aluminum Carbon

Delrin Butal Vendor SuppliedSteelKevlar

(2x) Wing Pivot Tube

(1x) Fuse Pivot Tube (1x) Crank Pivot Tube

(2x) Wing Dive Tube (Carbon Core) (1x) Wing Pivot Rod

(2x) Wing Sub Spar

(1x) Tail Latch Tube

(2x) Ball Link (2x) Screw (1x) Screw(2x) Ball(2x) Control Wire(2x) O-Ring(2x) Drive Crank (1x) Tail Hinge

Zaerotech Z33V2 Rev 1

Doubler / Fuse / LEFT

Skin / Wing / RIGHT / BOTTOM

Zaerotech Z33V2 Rev 1

Doubler / Fuse / RIGHT

Skin / Wing / LEFT / BOTTOM

WingTip / RIGHT

WingTip / LEFT

Guide / Canopy / LEFT

Guide / Canopy / RIGHT

Root Cap

Z33V2 Rev 1 - Skin / Wing / RIGHT / TOP Z33V2 Rev 1 - Skin / Wing / LEFT / TOP

Zaerotech Z33V2 Rev 1 - 0.8mm Ply

Zaerotech Maui

Z33V2R1

KJM Design

2012

Sanding Disc

KEEP

PMR

SLE

SLEC

RTP RTP

F4L

F4U

F1S

F3U F3L

F2L

F2U

F1eP

Zaerotech Z33V2 Rev 1 - 1.5mm Ply

Z33V2R1 TOOLS

Zaerotech Z33V2 Rev 1 - 2.5mm Balsa

Cap / Fuse / LEFT

Cap / Fuse / RIGHT

Zaerotech Z33V2 Rev 1 - 2.5mm Balsa

SLEB

Zaerotech Z33V2 Rev 1 - 2.5mm Balsa

NoseBlock Index Dowel Motor Ring

Basswood Leading Edge

Indexing Tools

Fuselage Construction 1

aerotech

Lay the Balsa Cap on a flat surface, and place the Ply Doubler on top. Do

this for both a left and right assembly. Use the Dowels and Tools to test

align the Two parts. Once satisfied, decide which of the slow curing adhe-

sives you would like to use to bond them

Side Doubler:

Locate;

- (2)x 0.4mm Ply Doubler

- (2)x 2.5mm Balsa Cap

- (4)x Indexing Dowels

- (6)x Indexing tools

Frame Assemblies:

Locate;

- (1)x 1.5mm Foreward Spine (FS)

- (1)x 1.5mm Lower Former (F2L)

- (1)x 1.5mm Lower Former (F3L)

- (1)x 1.5mm Aft Spine (AS)

- (1)x 1.5mm Lower Former (F4L)

- (1)x 1.5mm Former (F5)

Frame Assemblies:

Locate;

- (1)x 1.5mm Upper Former (F2U)

- (1)x 1.5mm Upper Former (F3U)

- (1)x 1.5mm Upper Former (F4U)

For the best result;

Use a small foam roller to apply a thin coat of medium cure epoxy to just the back side of the Ply Doubler.

Carefully lay it on top of the Balsa Cap without spreading epoxy beyond the edges of the ply. If it does

spread, clean it up, and check that all the tab slots are not filled with epoxy. A thin film is all you need.

Align with the tools and dowels. The extract the Indexing tools and dowels once the epoxy begins to tack

You can then place wax paper over the assembly and use weight to compress it

Four factors are important on your choice

of adhesive and method;

1. Slow cure (For working time)

2. Low viscosity (To limit the depth of penetration

of the adhesive, to save weight)

3. Perfect alignment

4. Cleanup of excess adhesive

Tail Bridge Plates:

Locate;

- (2)x 1.5mm Foreward Bridge Plates

- (2)x 1.5mm Aft Bridge Plates

- (1)x 1.5mm 90 Degree Tool

Indexing Dowels

Insert the Indexing Dowels into

the holes of the right side

assembly. Use the 90 Degree

Tool adjust their vertical

position, then tack in-place

with CA

Slip the Bridge Plates onto the

Dowels and check fit the align-

ment. Tweak the dowels to

adjust until satisfied

Joining the Assemblies:

Locate a pair of scrape 1.5mm Ply pieces to use as Gap

Plates, and position them as indicated. Slide the left side

assembly onto the Indexing Dowels and check alignment

F2L F2U

F4L

Foreward Spine Aft Spine

F3L

Gap Plate (3.1mm)

Ply Doubler

Balsa Cap

When satisfied, determine whether you will use cyano or epoxy.

Cyano; Wick CA into all contacting areas of the tail assembly.

Saturate without pooling

Epoxy; Remove the left assembly and bridge Plates. Apply a thin

coat of epoxy to all points of contact, stack and align the parts,

and make sure to clean any excess from the tail cavity

Lay the Spines on a flat

surface, and fit the respective

Formers. Use the 90 Degree

Tool to set the vertical angle

When satisfied with the alignment and fit, tack the Formers

in-place with CA. Use only enough adhesive to keep them

stable while you proceed to the final assembly

Fit the Upper Formers, and use

the 90 Degree Tool to align

them. Be careful not to break

the bridge between the lower

and upper sections

When satisfied with the alignment and fit, tack the Formers

in-place with CA. Use only enough adhesive to keep them

stable while you proceed to the final assembly

F3U F4U

Accelerator

Adhesive

Accelerator

Adhesive

Servo Plate

Fuselage Construction 2

aerotech

Cutaway View

Carefully spread the fuselage halves enough

to install the completed frame assembly.

Line up all the tabs and slots, installing light

pull rubberbands to hold the entire assem-

bly together as you go

Fit Foreward and Aft Frames:

Fuselage Bonding: Fuselage Bonding:

Lay the halves on a flat surface,

and apply CA to the bottom half

through the holes in the top half.

Clamp flat, and apply CA to the

perimeter. Let cure, and remove.

Check that the construct is flat.

Lightly sand if needed on a flat

surface

Slip the foreward and aft frame

assemblies together to form the

construct illustrated

Set the fuselage into the Multi-Jig, and use a pair of 90 degree plates, squares, etc., to aid you in

squaring up the structure. It helps to draw a line on the building board and centering the structure

by viewing through the frames

When satisfied with the tacked structure, use a fine tip and GAP, to

finish all points of contact. Finish the top side first, while its still squared

up, and let cure. Flip it over and do the bottom. Don’t overdue it

Tail Alignment:

Locate;

- (2)x 1.5mm Tail Gauge halves

Multi-Jig Construction:

Locate;

- (2)x 1.5mm Multi-Jig Sides

- (1)x 1.5mm Foreward Cross-Brace

- (1)x 1.5mm Aft Cross-Brace

Fit the Tail Gauge into the tail

cavity. If its tight, sand lightly

until snug

Viewed from the top,

you can see that

slight tweaking of the

structure will affect

the tail alignment

Frame Installation:

Locate;

- (1)x 1.5mm Servo Plate

Fit the parts as illustrated on a

flat surface, and tack all points of

contact

Make sure the entire structure

is square, and finish bond all

points of contact

Install the Servo Plate. Make sure it

engages the tabs perfectly, as misalign-

ment will hinder installation of hardware

later. Square up the assembly, and double

check all tab engagement

Use all the aids to tweak the structure until its completely aligned. When satisfied, start tacking

the intersection of frames and formers. Work from the tail, and slowly move foreward, checking for

unwanted twist as you go

Adhesive

Cap Installation:

Locate;

- (1)x 2.5mm Balsa 2nd Top Cap

Fuselage Construction 3

aerotech

Install the two Balsa Cheek Caps,

aligning them to the Balsa Side Caps

Carefully test fit the Top Balsa

Cap. Carefully align it as you

push it into the fuse cavity. Work

from the back to front. It should

stop at the edge of the Ply

Doubler

Once satisfied, remove and

apply adhesive to all points of

contact. Fit the Cap and hold in

place until cured

F1S

Decide which version you

will build, and fit the

appropriate Former

Pre fitting F1: Cap Installation (EP only):

Locate;

- (1)x 2.5mm Balsa Bottom Cap

Finish (EP only):Motor Ring Installation (EP only):

Locate;

- (XXXX)x 4.55mm Balsa Motor Ring

- (1)x .8mm Ply Motor Ring

F1S / F1EP Installation:

Locate;

- (1)x F1S 1.5mm Ply Sailplane Former

Optional

- (1)x F1EP 1.5mm Ply Electric Former

Stack as many Balsa Motor Rings as are

needed to enclose your motor. Test fit your

motor to be sure. You can install the motor,

and stack and tack the rings in-place. Lastly,

install the Ply Motor Ring

Apply adhesive to the 2nd Top

Balsa Cap, and hold in-place

Cap Installation:

Locate;

- (1)x 2.5mm Balsa Bottom Cap

Cap Installation:

Locate;

- (1)x 2.5mm Balsa Cap

Sand the Top and Bottom

Caps flush with the Side Caps.

Be careful not to sand the

tabs off

Before installing the Bottom

Balsa Cap, use a fine nozzle to

apply adhesive to the inside

bottom of the Top Cap. Then

apply adhesive to the Bottom

Cap

F1EP

Cheek Cap Installation (EP only):

Locate;

- (2)x 2.5mm Balsa Cheek Cap

Remove the knock-out

on the Bottom Cap.

This will increase the

foreward volume

Fit the 2nd Balsa Cap

With all the nose parts in-place, notice that the Cheek Caps form a cooling air

exhaust path. Most 22mm Outrunners will cool very well, with a proportion of

the air entering the fuselage, negotiating its way around the ESC and exiting

throught the launch-hole aft

16.0 18.0

2.5

Noseblock Installation:

Locate;

- (1)x 1.5mm Ply F1S Former

Fuselage Construction 4

aerotech

Install a Magnet in each of the

remaining cavities. Push them in flat

against the frames, and apply adhe-

sive to the outside points of contact

Set the Noseblocks on a flat surface

as illustrated. Apply adhesive to all

points of contact and align the parts.

Clamp or hold till cured

F1S

Now check that the rod is square in the fore and

aft direction. Again, tweak the rod to align the

tube. Check it again in the Multi-Jig

Bonding:

Inspect the result (Both versions):Magnet Installation:

Locate;

- (2)x 6.35mm x 1.58mm Magnet

Alignment:

Carefully size the hole for the Latch

Tube so that you can push it in with

moderate pressure from either side

Push the tube in far enough to begin

engaging the O-Rings inside the

cavity. Push in to capture both

O-Rings, and center the tube. Do not

Bond

Apply adhesive to all points of contact on the

F1S Former and fit to the flushed Balsa Caps.

Then follow-up with the Noseblock assembly

Pre-Fit Fuse Pivot Tube:

Locate;

- (1)x 4.75mm x 30mm Aluminum

Noseblock Assembly (Sailplane only):

Locate;

- (2)x 4.5mm Balsa Noseblock (Solid)

- (2)x 4.5mm Balsa Noseblock (w/Cutout)

Set the fuselage into the Multi-Jig, and

square it up as before. Insert the Pivot

Rod into the Fuse Tube, center it, and

measure the distance from each end to

the surface. Tweak the rod with moderate

pressure to force the tube until the

measurements are equal

Test fit the Fuse Pivot Tube before you apply

any adhesive. It helps if you slip the Pivot tube

over the Pivot Rod, to give you some control

and leverage as you guide it in. Use a round

file if needed, but try to make it a tight fit

Tail Latch Installation:

Locate;

- (2)x 6.5mm x 1.5 O-Ring

- (1)x 3.96mm x 9mm Aluminum Latch Tube

Once satisfied with the

alignment, apply adhe-

sive to the outside

perimeter of the tube on

both sides

Inspect all points of contact for thin gaps where

adhesive may have pulled back, or delamination

may have occurred. Note the cavities where the

formers and frame tabs fit. They are intentionally

shallow to accept fillers. Make sure the entire

structure is solid, and ready to fill and sand

Alignment:

Locate;

- (1)x 3.96mm x 200mm Carbon Wing Rod

Adhesive

Accelerator

Tail Angle

Tail Construction 1

aerotech

Now notice when you view it from behind, the rear cross-brace

carries the Stab angle. You will reference these aids while sand-

ing and adjusting the tabs on the Stab, until you obtain a snug

tab fit and alignment

Carefully fit the Stab and Blade tabs together and let the Stab rest on the Multi-Jig. Check the two angles described above. If

the side rail angle is off, you’ll need to favor either the foreward or aft end of the angle you sanded, effectively tilting the Stab.

The tail angle should be off naturally, requiring you to sand the angle more, effectively moving the Stab down. Take your time,

as this alignment is critical. There is no tail trim on a pitcheron, so tracking is as good as your work. When you get the angle

set, sand the second angle from the tabs so the right stab can be fit. Approximate this angle on the right Stab before fitting

Lightly sand the two Tail Blades on a flat surface with 400

grit sandpaper. Then take a small round object, wrap 400+

grit sandpaper around it, and very lightly sand the capture

radius. Now lightly sand each part, and remove any sharp

edges below the indexing tabs. The tabs will get sanded

later, so no need to prepare them

Capture Radius

The basic theory behind the tail capture design is simple, but it is very

important that you follow the methods here to ensure proper operation.

The wood will cut the O-Rings if engaged before preparation, so take

your time.

Stab Preparation:

Bonding and Finish:Tack the Stabs In-place:

Alignment & Fit:

Slip the foreward end of the Blades into the Tail cavity as

illustrated. The fit should be snug, but not overly tight.

Rotate the aft end down, and stop before you engage the

O-Rings. Again, only snug, but easy to push in and extract

If too tight, sand the blades on a flat surface until they slip

in snug

Tail Blade Preparation:

Locate;

- (2)x 1.5mm Ply Tail Blade

Sand each Blade

face to completely

flush the surface to

the Stab tabs. Then

sand the Blade

tabs flush with the

top surface of the

Stab. Finish sand

the entire interface

When you are satisfied with Blades fit, rub a little candle wax on the edge of the Capture Radius. A very small

amount is enough. Rub it in, and remove any excess. Adhesive will not stick to wax, so don’t spread it beyond

the edge of the radius that will engage the O-Rings

Gently rotate the Blades down with your thumb, and apply a little foreward pressure when you feel resistance.

You should feel the capture engaging, and with a little extra pressure, slip home. The top plane of the Blades

should now be parallel to the top plane of the Tail. If not, check for adhesive, debris, sharp corners on the Blade,

etc. You can also sand the capture radius slightly, to move the center up, or to loosen it a bit. But more than

0.5mm in any direction means there is problem elsewhere. To release, apply pressure with your index finger

Stab Bonding:

Tail Latch Theory:

Indexing Tab

Make sure the Tail cavity is clean, and void of any

excess adhesive. Then proceed to the next step

Blade Fitting:

Tail Spline Installation:

Before you remove the Tail parts from the sheet, notice that there

is the side with markings (Cut Side), and a side with laser flash

scorching

Fit the Balsa Spines in their respective holes, with the Stabs “Cut

side” up, and the Spines flashed side up. The laser cuts with a very

slight taper. Flipping the Splines will help the fitting. When flush,

dab some adhesive into the joint

You will be sanding two angles on the index-

ing tab end of each Stab. The first of these

angles (37.5 degrees), illustrated above in

gray, will allow you to set the incidence and

tracking of each stab. You will fit the left

Stab first, and set the alignment as

described in the next step. The second angle

will be sanded in-process to the fit

DO NOT TEST ENGAGE

Bottom

Use only thicker viscosity adhesive for this operation

Above the intersection of each Blade tab, apply one

drop of adhesive where the Stab contacts it

Do this for each tab, then check to make sure you did

not spread adhesive to the opposite Blade

Repeat with the right Stab. Let them cure, then remove

them by using your index finger to eject the tail

Notice by moving the

Multi-Jig fore and aft, you’ll

find a spot where the Stab

will fully fit between the

uprights of the horizontal

rail. Set up the Multi-Jig

and fuselage on a flat

surface and ensure that the

structure is still straight

and not twisted

37.5

Apply adhesive to the entire interface.

CA or thin epoxy works best to

penetrate the tabs

Add a fillet of adhesive to

the underside interface

Filled epoxy works best.

Alternately SLOW cyano or

thickened wood resin. An

adequate fillet is essential

to a reliable joint

Finish sand both Stabs. Radius the leading edge, and taper the trailing

edge to achieve a smooth surface. Sand as far as you see fit, but leave

at least a 1mm trailing edge thickness for strength

Adhesive

Horz. Rail

Sand Faces

Second angle needs to be

sanded before tacking

Accelerator

Wing Construction 1

aerotech

If you have not already filled the

tab and magnet cavities, do so

now. Use a filled epoxy that mimics

the density of the balsa. Or better

yet, use any of the water-based

light fillers

Use a block sander with 240-320

grit sandpaper to flush the filler

and aluminum tube with the flat

sides of the fuselage

Place a magnet about 20mm away from the

buried magnet in the fuse. Slide it over. If

the orientation is correct, you’ll know it. If

not, flip it over and do it again. Then press

Rib(1) onto the magnet far enough to flush

the rib to the side of the fuse

Build both Left and Right

Install the Sub LE:

Tack the magnet to the back

side of the rib while it is

being held in-place. Now

switch to the other side and

repeat the procedure

Using 320 grit sandpaper, lightly sand the edges of all parts.

Pay special attention to cleanly removing the break-out tabs.

Sand only as far as is necessary to remove the laser residue

Install the Sub LE Cap: Stab Bonding:

Rib (1)

Fit and Tack Rib (1&10) Make sure the flush side of

the magnet on Rib (1) is on the Root side, facing the

fuselage. And verify that the magnet attracts its

proper counterpart in the fuse

Special Tool Use: Install the Ribs:Layout Preparation:

The Z33V2 wing has been designed to build on a flat surface. No jig is

necessary, as long as you precisely place all of the components and take

your time

The fit of the slots in the Spar and Ribs will vary due to material tolerances,

but they should be a little loose. This is to accept enough adhesive to form

a glue joint that effectively isolates the wood from its counterpart. The

method is to tack the rib in-place using the alignment tools, hold, then

follow-up with an application of gap filling adhesive. Pressure and holding

strategy is very important to the final alignment of the structure

Prepare a building board and pins. Wax paper is recommended to build on,

and is very effective if you are careful with your adhesive application

Make sure you set up a build for both left and right wing structures

Use either of the 90 degree tools to aid in alignment during

construction. Be careful not to glue the tool to the work

If you are use cyano adhesives, these tools are good at holding

the work while you tack

Do Not Finish Bond at

this time

Magnet flush with Rib

Install the Sub LE by very carefully fitting the slots one at a time. Working from the root

to the tip, engage Ribs (1&2) about one-third of the way into their slots. Then move

to Rib (3), and so on to the tip. Come back to the root, and engage them another

third, and so on. Tack all points of contact

Accelerator

Install the Sub LE Cap by very carefully fitting the slots one at a time. Working from the

root to the tip, engage the tabs as you go. Hold in-place and check that all the tabs

are engaged and that the Cap is flush against the Sub LE. Tack all points of contact

Lay a Bottom Wing Skin on your building surface. Set the

completed structure on top, and align with the laser markings.

Double-check that all the ribs are sequential, and that they will

align to all the markings

Install and Tack the remaining (8) Ribs. Square them up and make sure

they are flush with the Spar on the building surface. You will block-sand the

top of the structure later, so the bottom is the main focus for accuracy at

this time. Use only enough adhesive to hold the ribs in-place

Rib (1) Preparation:

Locate;

- (2)x 6.35mm x 1.5mm Magnet

- (2)x Rib 1

Part Preparation:

Locate;

- (20)x 1.5mm Ply Rib

- (2)x 1.5mm Ply Main Spar

- (2)x 0.8mm Ply Sub LE

- (2)x 0.8mm Ply Sub LE Cap

Mag

Sub LE Sub LE Cap

Adhesive

Tabs

Main Spar

Sub LE Cap

Sub LE

UpRoot

Wing Construction 2

aerotech

Cut two strips of 1/16th (1.5mm) thick ply from scrap. Ideally, you want them 0.10 (2.5mm) wide, so they bend easily

The strip will be used as a spacer, to force the lower Wing Skin up to meet the Sub LE Cap

Pin the strip as illustrated

Finish sand the bottom

Fit the Spacer Strip:

Use light pressure when

sanding. Especially ribs

(1) through (5)

Tacking the foreward Ribs:

Tacking the Ribs:Tacking the Spar:

Position the Strip under the Wing Skin as illustrated.

You should be able to push it under the Skin until its

flush with the edge of the Skin. The pressure should

hold it in position until you add the pins. Then pin it

as illustrated, so you can force the curve to stay

Pin the Wing Skin to the building board,

and set the structure on top. Position the

structure to center on all the laser markings

Once satisfied, tack the rear of the Spar

between Ribs (6) & (7)

Once you are satisfied that the structure fits the laser markings on the

bottom Wing Skin, perform the final sanding of the structure

Use 320 grit sandpaper on a block, to lightly sand the bottom of the

structure, flushing the Spar and Ribs

Sand the Sub-LE Cap as illustrated, to continue the section curve

Again, work from the center, and tack the foreward end of each

Rib. Apply light pressure to each until cured, then move onto the

Once you have tacked all the Ribs, tack the foreward side of the

Spar to the Skin, and check all points of contact

Apply adhesive to the foreward junction between the Skin and

Sub LE Cap, but be careful not to glue the strip to the Skin

Structure Finishing: Preparation:

Caution

In the following steps, you will bring

it all together, and pin the Wing Skin

to the building board. Notice the pin

locations in the illustration. Most will

pin into the cutouts near the connec-

tion tab. Two pins are close to the

Spar, and pin into the main part of

the Skin

Move along the span from the tacked center, and

tack each Spar segment to the Skin. Apply only

enough to hold the Spar to the Skin. Do not let it

wick foreward, or to the Ribs

Move along the span from the center, and tack

only the aft end of each rib. The Ribs are slightly

under-cambered, so when you tack them, hold a

little pressure on the top of the Rib until cured

When you get to Rib (1), make sure

it is 90 degrees to the Spar

Make sure you don’t force the Skin

up too much. Eye it to just contact

the lower Rib, and add a touch

Caution

Adhesive

Sand Cap

Accelerator

Light Pressure

Wing Construction 3

aerotech

Test fit the Tip Doubler onto the bottom

Wing Skin as illustrated. It should nest

against Rib (10) and the ply Cap. Once

satisfied with the fit, apply adhesive to

all points of contact, and with light

pressure, allow the doubler to conform to

the Skins curve

Fit the Tip Ribs as illustrated

Top Wing Skin preparation: Installing the Top Wing Skin:

Finish Bonding & Cutout

removal:

Tip Installation:

Sand the bottom of the balsa Sub LE to

match the angle of the protruding lip of

the bottom Wing Skin. Make sure it

flushes well to both the Skin and ply Cap.

Bond it in-place

Insert the Sub Spar Tube into the Pivot Tube.

Locate the carbon Wing Rod, and use it to

push the Sub Spar through the tube until it

exits at the far end. Align it to Rib (5), and

push it through just enough to allow a fillet of

adhesive to be applied. About 2mm

Check the entire structure over, and make sure it is completely flat on the work surface. Apply adhesive to all points

of contact on the Pivot Tube and Sub Spar. Form a fillet where the Pivot Tube contacts the ply Spar. Now follow up with

adhesive to all points of contact on the entire structure

Carefully remove the Cutouts with a shape hobby knife, and remove the structure. Hold the wing so that the LE is

resting on the building board, and apply adhesive to the inside of the Skin to Cap connection indicated by the arrow

Begin by removing the cutouts. Align the Skin by approximating the same distance from the cutout to the Spar as on the bottom. Then adjust the

trailing edge so that it is equal distance from root to tip. It should be inboard of the bottom skin. Now wrap the Skin down to meet the LE. It

should cover about half of the balsa LE Cap. Check the bottom to see if they are about equal. Adjust until correct, and then mark a line on the

bottom Skin, using the top Skins edge as a guide. Remove the Skin, apply adhesive to the structure, align the Skin again, and clamp

0.020 (0.5mm)

Sand Bottom

Finish sanding the structure requires patience and a light touch. Using a block large enough to span three

Ribs, and approximately 20mm wide works well with 320 grit sandpaper

Lightly sand the entire structure to flush the Ribs to the Spar. Be careful not to modify the section

Special attention to the balsa LE Cap is required to match the curve of the Ribs

Attaching the Top Wing Skin requires preparation and a few test fittings. Specifically

in clamping logic and alignment. My preferred method of clamping is to use weights.

Typically lead bars or plastic tubing filled with sand. Five 25-50mm wide polybags

the length of the wing work well. The leading edge is the tricky part. I apply a dozen

lengths of tape on the bottom Skin, and lead them out past the LE far enough to

wrap over the top

Slow cure epoxy or Slow cyano works best, as you will need some working time.

Rolling the adhesive over the structure works best. Rolling on two coats a few

minutes apart helps to build up adhesive

Remove sharp edges from the Tube, and try

inserting it through the first two Ribs. Twist as

you insert. If the fit is too tight, run a round file

inside the holes in the Ribs. Carefully insert it

until the end protrudes as illustrated. It helps

if you apply pressure on the opposite side of

the Rib when you push it through

Pivot Tube Installation:

Locate;

- (1)x 4.75mm x 100mm Aluminum

Sub Spar Tube Installation:

Locate;

- (1)x 4.0mm x 44mm Carbon

Note the laser markings on the Tip Doubler. Install the Ribs as

illustrated, with the markings on the side indicated

Adhesive

Careful attention to the balsa LE Cap is essential

Accelerator

Balsa Sub LE Installation:

Adhesive

Slope

Thermal

Wing Construction 4

aerotech

Fit the basswood LE to the balsa Cap. Make sure the LE caps both Skins,

and that the alignment is good all the way along the span. Its a close fit,

so inspect all points of contact. Apply adhesive and tape the LE to the Cap

Trailing Edge Finishing:

Inspect & Finish Sand:

Installing the Drive Rod: Covering Tips:

Checking the Wing Root: Installing the Root Cap:

Covering a plywood skinned wing can be a challenge in

contrast to Balsa. Ply does not breath, so carefully

pre-shrinking the covering before pressure bonding is essen-

tial to keep bubbles from forming. Use an iron only, with a

sock. Seal all edges well before shrinking

If you cover the Pivot hole, puncture it, as this is the breather

for the entire structure

Use light or medium weight covering

Insert the Wing Rod into the fuselage and fit the wings. Bring each

wing up to the fuselage and check the gap between the foreward and

aft ends. If everything is aligned properly the fit should be flush. If not,

you’ll need to sand the Root more than just flushing the Skins

Inspect the entire structure to ensure there are no loose

Skin-to-Rib bonds, and that all joints have adequate adhe-

sive to form a small fillet. Use the same sanding block to

lightly knock down the highspots. Be careful not to cut

through more than the first ply layer

Flush sand

The Z33V2 is a fairly fast ship due to its highly efficient airfoil section. Depending on the version you

build, and its intended environment, the LE can be radiused from 1.5 - 2.25mm. Basically, the smaller the

radius, the faster the section. The down-side to a sharp LE is in stall characteristics, and on a wingeron,

this can translate into “Watch your turns”. Wingerons behave differently in the roll axis due to the rotation

of the section. If you are going with a sharper LE, try starting with 1.0mm at the root, and progressing to

2.0mm at the tip. For best all-around performance, try 1.5mm at the root, and 2.0mm at the tip

I recommend that you cover the entire wing at this point (see cover-

ing tips first). However, if you don’t mind working around the Drive

Rod, Install it now as illustrated. Apply silicone adhesive to just

Ribs (1&2), and a small amount on the rod. Install it at the distance

indicated, and clean any excess adhesive. Rib (3) does not need

bonding

Sand the balsa Cap flush to the Wing Skins, and make

sure you produce a smooth curve from root to tip in prepa-

ration for the basswood LE. Remove only as much mate-

rial as required to get a good surface

LE Cap Preparation: LE Installation: LE Sanding:

Regardless of the fit,

you’ll need to sand a very

slight curve into the root.

The object is to make

sure the LE and the TE do

not contact the Fuselage.

The high-spot of the curve

will then be at the pivot

point

High-Spot

Once the Root is sanded and curved as instructed, bond the ply

Root Cap in-place. Use a small screwdriver or rod to make sure you

align the Drive Rod hole, and remove as soon as possible

The second place where attention to detail can tailor the performance to

your environment, is the Trailing Edge. The TE on the Z33V2 can be

sanded on the bottom to speed up the section for fast Slope, or sanded

on the top to slow the section down a bit for better Thermal performance.

The difference is slight, but noticeable. In any case, the top needs to be

filled, up to the Top Skin as illustrated. Use light filler balsa filler

Sand the top to continue the upper curve. This

will enhance a slight under-camber in the

section

Sand the bottom to continue the lower curve.

This will form a slight reflex and reduce the

under-camber

Low-Spot

Align to Rib

Exaggerated Curve

Silicone

Fill

Larger LE radius

Smaller LE radius

6.5mm

Accelerator

Final Construction 1

aerotech

Use The F1 formers as a guide for how much material

you can remove

All along the fuselage, the join-line will serve as a

guide to how much to remove. Sand up to the line,

then go no further than 1mm deeper

Bottom View

Side Rail Installation:

Locate:

2x 0.5mm Ply Rail

Canopy Separation:

Canopy Tab & Mag Installation:

Locate:

1x 3.1mm Magnet

1x .8mm Ply Latch Tab

Crank Rack Spacer Installation:

Locate:

1x Ply Spacer (RS)

Fuselage Finish:

Mag Latch Installation:

Locate:

1x 3.1mm Magnet

In the illustration above, you can see the cut-line for the canopy in the side balsa Cap.

The dashed lines represent the angle you will need to cut. Later, you will cut deep

enough to separate the two parts. For now, you just want to cut through the top

balsa Cap, and leave the gap. Notice the foreward dashed line continues the natural

line of the cutout, while the aft dashed line is at an angle to the cutout. Its best to

mark the intended cut with a fine marker, then make the cut

Once you are satisfied with the rough finish of the fuselage, use the razor

saw to finish the cut. Then use a #11 blade to carefully cut the tabs connect-

ing the canopy to the fuselage. The side balsa Cap connecting tabs are

obvious, but the inner ply Doubler tabs are not, so feel your way along the

reveal line, and slice through with a light touch. Do not try to force the sepa-

ration, just keep cutting along, and twist the blade slightly to see if the two

parts pop loose. Be patient, the canopy will just pop off when its ready

Canopy:

Use a toothpick stuck in the hole of

the Spacer to center it with the hole

on the horz. spine. Bond in-place

F1SP Cut the sides of the Nose-blocks to approximate

the curve illustrated above. Be careful not to go

too sharp on the nose, as you might cut into the

nose ballast cavity of the inner blocks

Rough sand the entire fuselage to shape down

to 120 grit

Using a very fine tooth razor-saw, cut

through only the top balsa Cap, and

stop at the gap

Lay the Latch Plate on

a flat surface and

press in the Magnet.

Bond in-place

Press the Magnet into the

hole in the balsa cap. Make

sure its flush, then bond

in-place

Position the Tab. Make sure

its flush, then bond in-place

Carefully fit the ply Rails into the fuselage. Flex

them as necessary to get the front and back

positioned properly. Notice the rails will fit into

gaps on formers F2 & F3

Hold the rail against

the fuselage and bond

in-place. Do not bond

the center section

Cut the center section

out as illustrated. Then

follow up with adhesive

to finish the bonding

Adhesive

Accelerator

Join-Line

Slip the Latch Plate into the gap

between the ply rail and upper balsa

cap. Make sure it is flush with the cap,

and bond in-place

Wing twist direction (rear view)

Right Roll

Pitch Down

TETE

Final Construction 2

aerotech

Carefully angle the Rack into the fuselage, and

engage the tabs. It should slide right in with the

screw holes aligned. Don’t force it. Sand the tabs

and make sure there is no adhesive in the slots

Control Wires:

Locate:

2x Plastic Ball Link

2x Control Wire (Short & Long)

Control Wire Length:

Setup:

Engage here

Crank Assembly:

Locate:

2x Machine Screw

2x Ball

2x Delrin Crank (Left & Right)

Crank Rack Installation:

Locate:

1x Aluminum Tube

Center your servos and sub-trims before sizing the wires. Install the servo arms on the wires, install the arms, and lay the

wire ends on top of the plastic links. Measure 5mm aft of the plastic link end. This is the distance the wire will go into

the link, so measure carefully. Better long than short. Mark this point, remove the wire and cut the end

Now slip the wire into the link and reattach it to the servo. The arm should be centered as illustrated. Adjust the length

until its perfect. Remove the wire, rough up the end, and use Slow cyano or epoxy to bond the wire and link. Install the

assemblies and let cure in-place.

With the Crank Rack Plate on a flat surface,

install the ply Ties and bond in-place. Make

sure they are 90 degrees to the plate. Sand a

small chamfer on the top side of the tabs as

illustrated

Install the Cranks and make sure they rotate

freely. If needed, chase the bore on the Crank

with a small fine file to size it to the Tube. Do

not sand the Tube

Bond the Links:

Pushing on the Rack while

installed can crack it. Do not

press down for any reason

Once centered and flush, apply a

single drop of adhesive as

indicated. Let cure, remove the

Rack, and finish bond

Crank Rack Assembly:

Locate:

2x 0.8mm Ply Ties

1x 0.8mm Ply Crank Rack

Test the Crank Fit:

Note that the Cranks

have a larger hole on

one side to allow the

Ball to seat. Screw the

Ball to the Crank

carefully and slowly

Drop the Pivot Tube

between the Ties. Do

not push down to seat

it. Remove the Rack and

lightly sand the Ties

until the tube drops in

and seats flush. Install

again, and drop the

tube in. Lightly test that

it is flush

Note that there are two lengths of Control Wires.

Depending on your servo type, you will need to

cut them to length. Once you get the correct

length, rough up the end of the wire with a file to

help adhesive to bond. Carefully follow the next

steps to determine the distance

Set the fuselage into the Multi-Jig with the wings attached. Slide

blocks under the wings tall enough to touch the bottom of the

wing at its lowest point. Alternatively, you can block up the

wings as illustrated at any height, and measure the distance

from the surface to the bottom of the fuselage. Then use this

distance to block up the Multi-Jig. In either case, you need to

establish the proper angle of the fuselage, and that is achieved

when the fuselage is sitting on a flat surface with the tail in the

Multi-Jig

Use two pieces of 0.5mm ply to space up the trailing edge as

illustrated. With the wing drive rods engaged in the cranks,

install the plastic ball links on the cranks. Note that the links have

a larger opening on one side. Press the larger side on to the ball

and install the wires into the servo arms

The drive system for the Z33V2 has been designed with several weak links to help save the structure in the event of a crash. The Rack assembly is made from

flexible 0.8mm ply, and as such, is delicate when not installed. Be careful not to push on the rack, or bend it. Its function is to absorb shock loadings on the

wings. The cranks are also designed to absorb shock loadings. The final link, is the plastic link and wire bond. Follow the instructions and make a good bond

here, as in-flight failure is not good. Bonded well, these links will separate under high loads, and save either your servo gears, or the wind drive rod