Zippkits J.A.E. RACING Envy GAS Outrigger Instruction Manual

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Z I P P K I T S
Envy GAS Outrigger
A Zippkits R/C Boat
Building Instructions
2015 JMP Hobby Group LLC
www.zippkits.com
Toll Free (866) 922-ZIPP

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The Envy was developed from the JAE outrigger. The JAE series of boats were designed and
developed as a result of a joint venture between IMPBA Hall of Fame members Rod Geraghty
and Ron Zaker Jr. along with David Hall & Martin Truex Jr.
The main difference between this hull and all the others is the use of sharp edges on the bottom
of the sponsons and tub, as opposed to curved surfaces. This helps break any surface tension
of the water and makes for a faster boat.
This design approach has been built, developed and tested a great deal.
This kit represents the latest gasoline version as of December 2014. The changes we made
were many, yet the boat still looks almost exactly the same. Most of the changes were made so
that the boat was easier to build, easier to setup, handled better, was faster and easier to repair.
Many of the changes were a result of our experience, and some were the result of customer
request.
All in all, this kit is the very best we can make it, thanks to you, our customer.
The kit is not hard to assemble, as all of the hard stuff has been done for you.
That is no excuse to do a poor job with assembly. The better you build this boat, the better it will
run. Often the difference between an excellent building job and a poor one is a simple sanding
block.
A note about overhangs:
This boat is designed to shear water and prevent any capillary action of water. To do this the
tub, ski and sponsons have rear overhangs. These shear the water off and must be left in place
and not rounded in any way.
Take the time to read this entire manual, so that you are familiar with all the building
steps and their proper order. Take your time; make sure you understand everything
before you do it and you will be rewarded with an impressive running hull…
This kit is not a toy. Although R/C boating is a fun and rewarding hobby, it can be dangerous
if not done with common sense and safety in mind. Just about anyone should be able to
build this kit, but it should not be operated by children without close adult supervision.
The manufacturer assumes no liability for damages or other loss in the use of this product, as
we have no control over the construction or end use of this product.

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Tools and supplies needed to build
Sanding blocks with 80 and 150 grit paper
220, 400 and 600 grit paper
Drill with bits
Square
Flat file
FLAT Workbench
Building Jig (see below)
1/2 ounce Medium CA glue and accelerator
Good quality 30 minute epoxy
Epoxy finishing resin
Spring clamps, paper clamps, c clamps, etc.
Weights or bricks
Razor blade or X-Acto knife
Masking tape
Waxed paper
Wood filler
Primer
Paint

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Additional items needed to complete
23-36cc water cooled Gasoline engine with 5 inch mounts (Zipp Race Pro 26cc)
.250 Collet for engine (Zipp 3440 for Zenoah, Sikk, RCMK)
.250 24 inch cable w/welded 1/4 stub shaft (Zipp 3444)
Header to fit engine (Zipp 2000 for side exhaust)
Exhaust flange (Zipp 2008)
Tuned pipe (Zipp 2011)
2 channel surface radio with 2 servos (1 quarter scale Digital 250 oz servo Hitec HS-5765MH or
equivalent)
Rudder pushrod (4-40 Size) (Zipp3463)
4-40 ball link (Zipp 3457)
4-40 solder clevis (Zipp 3455)
Throttle pushrod (2-56 size) (Zipp 3462)
2-56 nylon clevis (Zipp 3459)
3 pushrod seals (Zipp 3422)
Small or Medium Fuel Cell (Zipp 3503/3504/3505/3506)
.250 strut (Zipp 3496)
.250 drive dog (Zipp 3442)
Zipp 678 or 2716 prop (starting point)
Prop nuts (Zipp 3450)
Cable grease Zip 3532)
Rudder (Zipp 3414)
36 inch length of 5/16 brass tubing (Zipp 3452)
36 inch length of 5/32 brass tubing (Zipp 3510)
All of the required hardware and accessories are available in a single Ultimate
Hardware package as Zipp 3605-U.
This package contains everything except the bare engine and radio.

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Let’s identify some of the parts so that we can easily find them when needed.
1/16 Ply parts
1/8 Ply parts

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Foam parts
Miscellaneous parts

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Do an inventory of all the parts, to be sure that everything is there. If anything is missing
or damaged, contact us as soon as possible, so that we can get replacements to you quickly.
Tub Jig
We recommend that you make a jig for the tub.
This can be as simple as two straight pieces of ½ to ¾ inch thick wood.
It can be as elaborate as 1/8 by 2 inch aluminum angle with adjustment slots for different tub
widths.
Either way, you need something to clamp the tub sides to.
Every critical component on this hull depends on a straight, square tub.
Do whatever it takes to get it done correctly.
The assembly order and the direction that parts must face is important.
If not assembled in the correct order, the parts will not fit.
Please take the time to read and understand every step, before you do it.
The tub bulkheads are designed to go in one way, and the bulkhead doublers (“A”) must face a
certain way.
Note that this manual contains photos of boats other than the Envy. We do this to better
illustrate the construction step.
We also do this when we forget to take certain photos, and don’t want to build another boat just
to get that pic…

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Tub sides before assembly.
Ledge for radio box lid frame.
Tub sides laminated.
Tub
Let’s build the tub.
The tub sides are laminated from 2 pieces of 1/8
ply, so take your time and make sure you
understand the tub assembly before you glue
anything.
First, note the insides of the inner tub right and
left are marked.
The Envy was designed so that when 2 parts are
laminated together, their laser marks will face
each other. If you are preparing to laminate 2
parts, and you can see writing, check again.
Notice the little “ledge” at the rear of the inner
sides. This is for the radio box lid frame.
Glue the inner sides to the outers, making sure
that you have a RIGHT and a LEFT side (they
are mirror images of each other).
Use the aluminum boom tubes to ensure perfect
alignment of the inner and outer sides.
Try not to get any glue in the slots for the
bulkheads or in the ledge. If you do, scrape it out
as it will make assembly difficult.
Be sure that the rear of the sides are flush at the
bottom, and have the 1/16 gap at the top ledge.
Check to make sure that the sides have not
slipped out of alignment.
Allow to cure.

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Use the provided square.
Be sure cooling tube hole line up.
Tub sides glued to bulkheads.
The bulkheads in the Envy are laminated from
two 1/8 inch parts.
The bulkheads are laser labeled so that the
markings should face each other when
laminated.
In other words, no laser writing should be visible
when the bulkheads are done correctly.
Sand the edges of all parts before gluing.
Glue bulkheads 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5 together with
their respective doublers (1A, 2A, 3A, 4A and
5A).
Check that all edges are flush and clamp to dry.
Make sure that all holes in the bulkheads line up
as well.
Laminate the transoms T and T together.
Do not laminate TD at this time.
Once all bulkheads are laminated, check the fit of
the bulkheads in the right tub side.
Note that bulkheads 1, 2 and 3 have the doublers
facing the rear, while bulkheads 4 and 5 have the
doublers facing forward.
Make sure that the rear 3 bulkheads have the 2
little holes on the right.
These are for the brass cooling water tubes
installed later.
Once you are happy with the fit of the bulkheads
in the tub sides, glue them in with CA or epoxy.
Use the square provided in the kit to ensure each
bulkhead is perfectly square.
Add the left tub side the same way.
When cured, flip the tub over and lightly sand the
tub bottom.

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Tub in jig.
Use a 1/8 inch spacer under the square.
Note location of shaft hole in bottom.
Now is the time to use your tub jig. If you don’t
have the ability to make an aluminum jig, use a
pair of straight, thick wooden sticks. Leave these
clamped to the sides while gluing the aft bottom
in place.
Put a layer of waxed paper over the jig.
Put the tub aft bottom in the jig and set the tub
onto it.
Make sure that the oval shaft hole in the bottom
sheet ends up in the middle compartment as
shown.
Slip the tub frame into the jig.
Check all around to make sure that the tub fits
properly on the bottom sheet.
Remove the tub from the jig in preparation for
gluing.
Using epoxy, glue the tub aft bottom in place.
Make sure that the bottom extends to the front
bulkhead. It should cover the full 1/4 inch
bulkhead and be flush with the front.
If necessary, adjust or “rack” the tub frame so
that it aligns perfectly with the front of the bottom
sheet. The front of bulkhead 1 should be
perfectly flush with the bottom sheet as shown.
Epoxy the transom assembly in place at the rear.
Make sure the transom is square and straight.
Use scrap 1/8 ply or use TD as a base for the
square to check the transom.
Check to be sure that no waxed paper is
between the bottom and side by pulling up on the
paper all around.
If you use anything other than aluminum angle,
make sure that the bottom sheet doesn’t move
sideways while it cures.
This can occur if you use angle iron, or some
other angle that doesn’t have a sharp angle.
It may be a good idea to draw a line on the
bottom, along the inside of the tub, to be sure the
bottom sheet has not moved.

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Sub nose in place.
Lid frame support. Match cooling tube hole.
Lid frame support in place.
Clamp the tub sides to the jig and put some
weight on the tub frame to assure that it has full
contact with the bottom sheet.
Allow to cure.
Glue the tub sub nose to the very front of the
tub. This supports the nose for sheeting, and
provides a solid base for the tub nose block.
There should be a slight overhang on all sides so
that the sub nose can be sanded to shape.
Glue in the lid frame support. This goes on the
rear of bulkhead 3, and provides a “ledge” to
support the front of the lid frame.
Be sure that this is flush with the lower (inside)
portion of the tub as shown. The two water tube
holes should line up.
Clamp until cured. You can use a piece of 5/32
brass tube to assure alignment of this important
part.

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Transom doubler.
Transom brace. One on each side.
Lots of meat here…
Glue in the transom doubler TD.
This goes in front of the transom.
The cooling holes should line up.
Glue in the two transom braces in place on each
side of the transom doubler.
Clamp all until cured.
You should have a nice, strong rear end at this
point. Always a good thing…

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Note that all holes align.
Aft bottom sheet sanded and ready for fwd bottom.
Fwd bottom in place. Note rear overhang.
When cured, remove the tub from the jig and flip
it over.
Put the upside down tub back in the jig.
Sand the forward tub bottom so that the FWD
bottom sheet will sit flat.
This will include sanding a bevel on the aft
bottom to match the angle of the sides.
Glue the forward bottom sheet in place.
The forward sheet should overhang on the rear.
See drawing.
When cured, sand the bottom sheets flush with
the tub sides and front. Do not sand off the rear
overhang.
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This is what makes a JAE a JAE… Sponsons are
similar.
Bamboo skewers glued in place.
Sanded flush.
This is one of the things that make this such an
efficient design. By keeping all rear breaks sharp,
water is not allowed to stick, and is encouraged
to shear off cleanly, for much less drag.
Drill two 1/8 inch holes through the tub sides, into
the transom. Make these about ¾ inch deep.
Cut 4 pieces of bamboo skewer about an inch
long.
Put a drop of glue in the hole, and hammer the
skewer in each hole until it bottoms out. Allow to
cure.
Cut the skewer with side cutters and sand flush.
The transom is now permanently attached,
without the need for any additional reinforcement.

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Engine in place on scraps of wood as spacers.
Tracing around mounts.
Using a washer to draw holes for drilling.
Engine
If using the Zipp 3409 mounts you can simply
bolt your engine in place.
If not, continue reading. You should be able to
use either the front or rear set of holes with your
mounts.
Install your engine on its mounts, then set the
engine and mount in place.
Use some scraps of plywood under the engine to
space off the floor.
Use about 1/8 inch in the rear and 3/8 inch in the
front (pull start end).
Use a piece of 1/4 brass tube or drill bit to make
sure that the engine is aligned with the holes in
the rear bulkhead and floor.
Put the ¼ inch tube or bit in the collet and snug it
up by hand.
If you want to be precise about the shaft tube
location, you can slip a piece of 9/32 brass tubing
over your ¼.
This will then be a nice slip fit to your 5/16 shaft
tube.
It should line up perfectly. If not, put scrap wood
spacers under the engine to get it to the correct
height and angle.
Sight the engine from the front or rear. Be sure
that it is not tilted to one side.
Once you are happy with the engine placement,
draw around as much of the rubber isolators as
you can. Remove the engine and use a flat
washer about the size of the rubber isolators to
draw a center hole.

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Drilling holes for mounts.
Right angle drill is handy.
Shaft tube aligned properly.
Use a center punch or nail to mark the center for
your holes.
Drill these holes ¼ inch, and mount the engine.
With the engine in place, we can move on to the
shaft tube.
Slide your 5/16 shaft tube in until it is about ¼
inch from the collet.
The shaft tube should slide in without any
interference. If needed, use a round file to
elongate the shaft tube slot or hole.
Take a little extra time to get this right.
Make a small mark on the shaft tube where it
comes through the bottom sheet.
Make another mark about 6 inches past the back
of the boat.
Cut the brass tube here.
The 5/16 inch brass tubing needs to be
annealed.
This will make it easy to bend by hand, without
kinks.
Only anneal the brass tube from the mark you
made rearward. We don’t want to anneal the
forward portion that sticks through the bottom.
To anneal the tube, simply heat it with any
propane torch, until it changes color.
You will see the brass color change to a sort of
blue. It only takes a couple of seconds, so watch
for it.
When you see the tubing change color, move the
flame slowly down the tube until the whole area
is done.
Put a screwdriver in one end of the tubing to hold
it while you heat it.
Try not to anneal the rear inch or so.
You can either set the hot tube on a heat proof
surface (concrete will do), or you can quench it
with water until cold.

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Epoxy with filler in place.
Be sure to pack the epoxy around the tube.
Tape on tub bottom, around shaft tube.
When cool, use a Scotch Brite pad or coarse
sandpaper to scuff the brass tube.
Put the shaft tube through the hole in the tub
bottom, and through bulkhead 3.
Put the end that you didn’t anneal towards the
engine.
The tube should start ¼ inch behind the engine,
and continue about 6 inches behind the transom.
Glue the shaft tube in place with epoxy and filler
(to thicken).
Be sure to sand the shaft tube where the epoxy
will be.
To prevent epoxy from running out the bottom of
the slot, use tape to make a “dam” on the bottom
of the tub.
Allow to cure fully before touching anything.

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5/32 brass water tubes installed.
Front end of tubes.
Aft ski bottom glued to side.
Water lines
Cut your 5/32 brass tubing so that you have two
pieces, each 22-1/2 inches long.
Deburr the ends (inside and out) and put them in
place in the pre-drilled holes in the bulkheads.
Leave about ¾ inch sticking out the transom.
Put a drop of epoxy around each tube where it
goes through each bulkhead. Do both sides of
the bulkheads for a leak free installation.
Ski
Assemble the 4 parts of the ski using epoxy or
CA.
The aft bottom should start right at the angle near
the front of the ski. This will leave some overhang
at the rear.
Glue the ski aft bottom onto the sides.
Clamp or tape this assembly until cured.
Be sure that the ski sides are 90 degrees to the
bottom. We used medium CA and accelerator for
this.

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FWD ski bottom in place. Note overhang.
Rear edge of ski sanded to shape.
Front tip of ski sanded to nothing.
Completed ski.
Sand a bevel on the front part of the ski bottom,
so that the fwd ski bottom fits flush.
This is exactly the same as you did for the tub
fwd bottom.
Glue the fwd ski bottom in place, leaving a sharp
step at the joint, and let the excess run forward.
Sand a sharp bevel on the rear of the ski bottom
sheet, so that it matches the ski sides.
Sand the outside of the ski all around.
Sand the front of the ski bottom so that it tapers
to nothing
Check that the ski sits flat as if it was being glued
to the tub.
Do not glue the ski to the tub yet.
We need to make sure that everything is
completely sealed with epoxy before we do any
assembly.
Bend the shaft tube so that the ski fits over it.
The tube should touch the ski when the ski is in
place on the tub.
Put a gentle bend in the tube.

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Shaft tube bent for ski clearance.
Ski in place.
Strut in position (old strut shown).
Tape the ski in place over the shaft tube. We
want the ski to sit flat on the tub, and the strut to
sit on the bottom of the ski at the rear.
Hardware
If you are using Zipp hardware, simply finish
drilling the holes in the transom for the strut,
rudder and pushrod.
If not, see below and fill any unused holes.
Strut
Make a pencil line in the center of the transom
and mount the strut bracket flush with the top of
the transom.
Slide the strut onto the shaft tube and bolt in
place.
Bolt the strut in the tub, touching the ski. The
shaft tube should go all the way through the Zipp
strut. Slightly bend the shaft tube so that the strut
will slide on and bolt squarely to the transom.
The strut bottom should be parallel to the tub
bottom (0 degree angle).
Mark the tube where it exits the strut.
Remove the strut and cut the shaft tube at your
mark. Clean and deburr this cut inside and out.
Remove the ski.