Zippkits VBox 2013 Edition Deep Vee Sport Crackerbox Instruction Manual

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Z I P P M A N U F A C T U R I N G
VBox2013 Edition
Crackerbox
Deep Vee Sport Crackerbox
A Zippkits R/C Boat
Building Instructions
2014 JMP Hobby Group- Indiana USA
www.zippkits.com
Toll Free (866) 922-ZIPP

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The Zippkits VBox 2 Crackerbox was developed from a very successful series of Crackerbox kits.
We made improvements and redesigns through the years.
The VBox 2 is a sport Crackerbox and a culmination of all of our design tricks and is by far our Easiest
building Crackerbox.
It is based on the full size APBA Crackerbox with the addition of a deep vee, to drastically improve turning
performance.
This new hull is not legal in any Crackerbox racing classes, due to the deep vee bottom.
The ABox 2 is legal for racing in the Gas Mono class.
Take the time to read this entire manual, so that you are familiar with all the buildings steps and their
proper order. Take your time; make sure you understand everything before you do it and you will be
rewarded with an impressive running hull…
Note that the pictures in this manual may be of a different boat to better illustrate a point.
This kit is not a toy. Although R/C boating is a fun and rewarding hobby, it can be dangerous if not
done with common sense and safety in mind. Just about anyone should be able to build this kit, but it
should not be operated by children without close adult supervision.
The manufacturer assumes no liability for damages or other loss in theuse of this product, as
we have no control over the construction or end use of this product.

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Tools and supplies needed to build
Sanding blocks with 80 and 150 grit paper
Drill with ¼, 5/16, .201 and 5/32 bits
¼-20 tap
Right Angle Drill
Square
Flat file
Round (3/16) file
FLAT Workbench
Hex ball drivers
FLAT Workbench
Medium CA glue and accelerator
Good quality 30 minute epoxy
Epoxy finishing resin or Klass Kote Epoxy
Spring clamps, paper clamps, c clamps, etc.
Razor blade or X-Acto knife
Masking tape
Waxed paper
Wood filler
Primer
Paint
FLAT Workbench

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Additional items needed to
complete
Gasoline engine (Zipp 3800)
5 inch mounts (Zipp 3409)
.250 Collet for engine (Zipp 3440 or 3426)
.250 24 inch cable w/welded stub shaft (Zipp 3444)
Tuned pipe or canister muffler (Zipp 2011 or 3532)
2 channel surface radio with 1 standard and 1 heavy duty servo (100 in/oz minimum)
Throttle pushrod (Zipp 3462)
Rudder pushrod (Zipp 3463)
2 pushrod seals (Zipp 3404 or 3422)
16-24 ounce fuel tank or IV Bag and tubing (Zipp 3506)
.250 stinger (Zipp 3401)
.250 drive dog (Zipp 3442)
470 or 670 prop (Zipp 4000 or 4016)
Prop nuts (Zipp 3450)
Cable grease (Zipp 3532)
Large rudder ( Zipp 3413)
Stinger Drive or Strut (Zipp 3401 or 3416)
8 feet large silicone tubing (Zipp 3461)
18 inch length of 5/16 brass tubing (Zipp 3452)
Floatation (pool noodles, foam, etc.)
Transom turn fin (Zipp3410)
Large trim tab set

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Let’s identify the parts so that we can easily find them when needed. Mark the parts that are inside other
parts.
1/8 plywood parts:

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1/4 plywood parts
Do an inventory of all the parts, to be sure that everything is there. If anything is missing or
damaged, contact us as soon as possible, so that we can get replacements to you quickly.

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Work Surface
We recommend that you use a straight, flat work surface.
Minimum size would be at least 24 by 48 inches.
Your work surface should be able to take screws or nails (this eliminates the kitchen table…)
Every critical component on this hull depends on a straight, flat surface.
Do whatever it takes to get this done.
Sand the parts while they are still in the sheets.
You can lightly mark them if you want.
Remove the radio box lid frame and radio box lid from the sheet.
Put these in a safe place, away from your work area for now.
The lid frame looks exactly like the radio box lip, but is not.
Confusing these parts would be bad for the radio box…
You may want to use simple rubber band clamps for clamping the sides in place.
These are simply #64 rubber bands and pieces of 1/2x1/2 wood about 7 or 8 inches long.
These put just the right amount of clamping pressure, without distorting the chines.
Thanks to one of our customers for that.

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Building jig attached to bench.
We use nails to secure the jig.
All bulkheads on position.
Keel halves before being laminated.
Building Jig
Sand both sides of the jig.
Attach the jig to your FLAT bench with screws,
nails, clamps or whatever you need, to make
sure it’s attached to the surface.
Make sure the “F” is so that you can read it.
Remove bulkheads 1, 2 and 3.
Sand the edges with 80 grit to remove the fuzz,
as well as the little tabs that held them in the
sheet.
Put bulkheads 1, 2 and 3 into the jig, engaging
the tabs in the slots.
Starting from the front of the jig, glue the tabs of
bulkhead 1 to the jig.
Use a square to ensure that it’s 90 degrees to
the jig. Also make sure that the tabs don’t
protrude under the jig.
Use CA and accelerator.
When dry and square, glue bulkheads 2 and 3
to the jig the same way. Use the square.
Remove sand and glue bulkheads 4 and 5 to
the jig.
Remove both keels from their sheets.
Sand as before.
Using CA, glue both keels together. Be sure that
the keels are aligned with each other.
Clamp while drying.

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Keel clamped.
Engine rails in place. Note cutout for carb.
Keel glued to the face of BH1. Be sure it’s square.
Find the two ¼ ply engine rails. Sand them
smooth with 80.
Clamp a piece of wood to the back of BH 5 for
the next few steps, to keep it flat.
Check the fit of the engine rails into bulkheads
3, 4 and 5.
One engine rail has a relief for the carb. This
goes on your left side (right side when the boat
is upright).
If ok, glue them in (the big end goes forward).
Use 30 minute epoxy for the engine rails.
Be sure that bulkheads 4 and 5 are square.
The keel should be dry by now.
Check the fit of the keel into bulkheads 1, 2 and
3.
If ok, glue it in, making sure the keel is centered
on bulkhead 1. Use a square to be sure that the
keel is in the center of bulkhead 1.
Also be sure that the keel is flush with the top of
bulkhead 1.
This kind of looks like a boat, doesn’t it?
Take a break, and give the glue a little while to
completely cure.
Next, we will install the chines. Make sure you
follow along closely, as these are very important
to the final shape.
Using CA, glue one of the deck (closest to the
bench, remember the boat is upside down)
chines to the notch in bulkhead 5.

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Make sure keel is flush with top of BH1.
Deck chine in place.
Fitting front of deck chine in place.
Be sure that the chines are glued in so that
they match the angle of the bulkhead tops.
Hit the glue joint with accelerator. Hold it in
place for 30 seconds or so.
When you are sure the glue is cured, glue to
bulkhead 4.
Hit that with accelerator, hold for 30 seconds or
so, then move ahead to 3, then 2, then 1.
Do not glue the chine to the keel yet.
Do the other deck chine, but don’t glue it at the
nose yet.
Now you get to glue yourself to the boat! Try not
to…
Using CA, put glue on the ends of the two top
chines.
Squeeze both chines together at the tip of the
keel.
Make sure that both are even, and fit into the
notch on the top of the keel.
Hit the joint with accelerator, and hold for a
minute or so.
Try not to glue your fingers to the chines! If you
do, it could be rather embarrassing to have your
wife try to free you. She will use that story for
life!
Hint: Nail polish remover debonds CA…

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Deck chines meet at nose.
Install chines following angle of bulkhead.
Lower chines meet at nose.
When you are sure the joint is secure, glue in
the bottom chines.
They are done the same way, but the chine
matches the bottom angle on all but the forward
bulkhead 1. The chine will have to twist to
accomplish this. It will lay flat (with relation to
the bottom angle) on bulkheads 5, 4 and 3.
At bulkhead 2, you can start the twist so that it
meets the keel at the proper angle.
Be sure that the chines are glued in so that
they match the angle of the boat bottom.
Bulkhead 1 is the only one where the chine
does not match the angle of the bottom.
Note how bottom chine matches bottom angle
until BH 2.
When that is secure, put some glue in the area
where all of the chines meet at the nose, to give
it a little extra strength.
Time for another break. Give your beautiful boat
skeleton at least 20 minutes to cure.

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A boat!
Using sanding block to blend chines. Abox shown.
Make all edges flat. Hold sanding block 90 degrees to
chines.
Blending the
chines
Before we can glue the side sheeting in place,
we need to make sure the chines are flat. Do
this with your sanding block and fresh 80 grit
paper.
Sand the chines, using your sanding block to
blend them at the front.
Check to see if your sanding block sits flat on
the chines at all points. If it does not, the side
sheeting won’t either. The front of the chines will
need a fair bit of blending. The rear will need
very little.
When the chines have been sanded and
blended, it’s time to start the side sheeting.
Dry clamp the side sheeting in place.
We use lots of large size paper clamps.
You can buy these at your local office supply
store. Get about 24 or more…
Clamp and adjust the sheeting so that it
overhangs an equal amount on the top and
bottom. Leave a little hanging off of bulkhead 5
as well.
When it looks good, make a reference mark
somewhere that is easy to see. I make it
between 3 and 4.

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Use lots of clamps.
Brushing epoxy onto edges with cut down acid brush.
Front of side sheeting coated with epoxy.
Mark a line on the chine and the sheeting, so
that you can align the marks quickly when
gluing.
Remove the clamps.
Label the front inside of the side sheeting.
Using 30 minute epoxy, mix up about 1/2 ounce.
Stir very well.
Using a small stick or acid brush, coat the
chines and bulkhead edges. Work quickly.
Make sure that all surfaces that will touch the
sheeting are coated. Try not to use so much
that it runs all over. Brush epoxy on the front 6
inches or so of the side, to help strengthen the
high stress nose area.
Align the marks and start clamping, adjusting
the sheeting for equal overlap on the top and
bottom.
You can use your rubber band clamps here.
Do not put any clamps between bulkheads 3
and 4 yet. This is a long span, and should be
clamped last. Be very careful when clamping
this area. Don’t bend or twist the chines in this
area.

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Don’t clamp this area until last. Then clamp carefully.
Clamps in rear.
Transom clamped in place.
Clamp thoroughly, but be careful not to distort
the chines.
Allow to cure at least 2 hours.
Using a new mixing container and applicator, do
the other side. Be sure to test fit again. You will
have to trim the front tip of the first side, so the
second side fits.
Allow to cure at least 3 hours.
Use whatever you need to hold things together.
After the side sheeting has cured, sand the rear
of BH 5. Sand any of the engine rails that
protrude.
Use 30 minute epoxy to attach the transom to
BH 5.
The transom should be flush top and bottom.
Any overhang should be at the sides.
Clamp and allow to cure.
Bottom Sheeting
When the glue is fully cured on the side
sheeting, sand the side sheeting to match the
angle and contour of the chines and bulkheads.

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Side sheeting sanded flush at nose. Note overlap.
Center marks on bulkheads 4 and 5.
Bottom sheet taped and clamped in place.
Use your sanding block with fresh 80 grit to
match the angle of the bulkheads. Also, lightly
sand half of the keel at the same time, so that
the bottom sheet lays flat on the structure. Do
not change the shape of the keel, just match the
angle.
The keel will have a slight “V” shape when you
are done.
Be very careful not to sand the keel too
much, or the bottom will not fit!
Make a mark in the exact center of bulkheads 4
and 5. Make this mark on the edge, so that you
know how far to glue the sheeting.
Test fit the bottom sheeting in place. It should
cover exactly half of the keel. Also, sand a
gradually increasing bevel on the inside (center)
edge, so that both sheets will meet squarely.
Make sure the front is accurately aligned with
the center of the keel and that there is some
overlap at the rear (1/16 inch is plenty).
When satisfied with the fit, make an alignment
mark on the bottom sheeting and the keel.
Cut about 8 pieces of wide tape, and set aside.
Mix about 1/2 ounce of 30 minute epoxy.
Using a small stick or acid brush, coat the
chines and bulkheads where the bottom
sheeting will contact. Work quickly.
Also coat half of the keel and one engine rail.
Brush epoxy onto the first 6 inches of the front
of the sheet, to help the glue joint here.
Align your marks and put a couple of clamps
along the keel, clamping the sheeting firmly to
the keel.
Check your center marks on bulkheads 4 and 5.
Wipe all excess glue off of the keel, as it will
interfere with the other side sheeting.
If everything looks good, start wrapping the wide
tape across the bottom sheeting.

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Nose detail. Notice half of keel showing.
Use weights to keep everything in contact.
High spot marked on bottom sheeting.
Start at the keel, and pull the tape tight as you
attach it to the side.
Use as many pieces of tape as you need, to
make sure the bottom sheeting is tight to the
keel, side chines and sheeting.
Look for any “crown” in the sheeting as a result
of taping. If it exists, use some weights to flatten
it out.
Also put weight over the engine rail, to help hold
it against the sheeting.
It is critical that the bottom sheeting be bonded
to bulkheads 3, 4, 5 and the engine rails.
Make sure that you take the time to fit the parts
accurately, as this boat WILL NOT run correctly
if the bottom is wrong.
After you tape and weight the bottom sheet,
look under the boat to see that the bottom sheet
is touching everywhere it should be.
For very inexpensive weights, break up some
cinder blocks. You can get many different
shapes and weights, and their rough surface
helps keep them in place.
After the glue fully cures (at least 3 hours),
remove the tape and clamps. Check for any
glue that may have squeezed onto the keel. Use
a sharp knife or razor blade to scrape any
excess glue away.
Test fit the other bottom sheet, and make any
adjustments before you glue.
Make sure that both bottom sheets meet as
perfectly as possible.
Take your time here. Start from the rear. Put the
sheet in place, and mark any areas where the
two bottom sheets touch, keeping the sheeting
from meeting perfectly. Use your block with 80
to sand these “high” spots.
Move forward and sand, fit, sand, fit, until it fits
perfectly. Be sure to sand a progressively
sharper bevel, so that the bottom sheets fit
tightly together.

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Both bottom halves taped and weighted.
Radio box parts. Rear of box on left.
Joining sides. Short sides go between long.
Glue the other side of the bottom sheeting on
the same way as the first, only this time you
can’t use clamps.
Tape the crap out of it, put weights on it, and
look under the boat to be sure that the bottom is
touching bulkheads 3, 4, 5 and the engine rails.
Let’s build the radio box while the glue cures on
the hull.
Radio Box
Remove all of the radio box parts: Two long
sides, two short sides, the top and bottom.
Note that the kit comes with a 1/8 ply top and
lid. This is the actual radio box top. Keep this
away from the radio box during assembly, and
only get the lid after the box is assembled and
ready for it.
The radio box lid frame and lid fit inside each
other with a tiny clearance all around.
The top with lid and the regular top look
identical, but they are not interchangeable.
If you mix them up, you will have a worthless
radio box.
Sand all the parts smooth with 80.
Lay a piece of plastic wrap or waxed paper on
your bench.
The radio box must be assembled correctly, as
the pushrod holes are pre-drilled.
The rudder pushrod hole is higher than the
throttle.
Lay out the parts of the box as shown.
Both pushrod holes are on the same side of the
box, and towards the top.
Using CA, glue the two small sides to the two
long sides.
The small sides go between the long ones.

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Bottom glued in place.
Rear of box facing you.
Getting ready to cut the boat free of the jig.
Use a square.
Put glue on the edges, and join the two box
halves on the bench.
Lightly sand the bottom of the box.
Note that the bottom is about a half inch too
wide.
This overhang is used to screw the box in place.
Glue on the bottom. Be sure to leave a ¼ inch
overhang on each side of the box.
Leave the top off at this time.
Lightly sand the top.
Stand back and admire your awesome radio
box!
Back to the boat:
Make sure that it has been at least 3 hours
since you glued the bottom sheeting to the hull.
With your razor saw, cut all the tabs that are
holding your hull to the building jig.
Ditch the jig. We don’t need it any more.
Hey, this is really starting to look like something
now!
After you finish admiring your cool new hull, let’s
move on.

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Boat flipped over and off of jig.
Installing spines. Hole goes forward.
Dowel doublers in place.
Trim the excess bottom and side sheeting flush.
Finish with an 80 grit sanding block.
Don’t spend too much time where the side
sheeting meets the top, as we will come back to
this area later.
Get the two spines. Push the center slot of the
spines into bulkhead 2. Check the fit; it should
be flush with the top of the bulkhead.
The spines go from bulkheads 1 to 3.
The hole in the spines should face forward.
Glue the two dowel doublers in place on the left
side of the hull. One on the front of bulkhead 3
and one on the rear of bulkhead 4.
These give more gluing surface for the deck
support dowel. This dowel protects the deck
when you pick the boat up.
We supply two sets of these doublers. You
should put them on both sides. If you later want
to add another ½ inch dowel (not included) to
the other side, the boat will be ready for it.